文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a species of small, beautiful tree native to Asia that has naturalized in the Deep South of the United States. So often used in landscaping is Lagerstroemia indica that as you travel around some areas of the country, that you will see its presence in almost every yard. Though certainly not unique, its common use is a testament to its stunning blossoms, peeling bark, and attractive fall foliage that gives the crepe myrtle unrivaled all-season interest.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月26日
The coral honeysuckle produces beautiful trumpet-shaped flowers in red, coral, orange, or yellow. Despite the invasive reputation of common honeysuckle, coral honeysuckle is native to the southeast United States and is a perfect alternative to its invasive cousins. The flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, while its red berries in the fall attract songbirds.
This vine has oblong, paired leaves. Leaves located at the upper ends of the vines are connected, creating the appearance of one leaf. Mature vines have papery, orange-brown bark that complements the orange-red flowers. This stunning plant is evergreen in warm climates, though in colder climates it is a perennial vine. When planting, it is best to do so in the spring or fall, as the summer heat will stress a new plant. Alternatively, the coral honeysuckle can also be grown in large containers.
Botanical Name Lonicera sempervirens
Common Name Coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle
Plant Type Evergreen, perennial, vine
Mature Size 15-25 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 4-11, USA
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Coral Honeysuckle Care
The coral honeysuckle has easy care requirements. These plants are easy to maintain, since they prove adaptable to many conditions. It needs well-draining soil and full to partial sunshine. Good air circulation will help prevent disease. Aside from pruning vines that have ventured too far, coral honeysuckle thrives when left to weave and wind on its own.
Providing a trellis is a great way to display the abundant flowers of this plant. To do this, gently help the vine wrap around the trellis as it grows, or lightly tie it to the trellis with twine. This climbing vine can also be allowed to creep along the ground as ground cover. Though honeysuckle is often looked at as an invasive species in the US, coral honeysuckle is actually native in to the southeast US. Japanese honeysuckle, on the other hand, is very invasive. The coral honeysuckle is not often troubled by pests or diseases, but they may encounter aphids or powdery mildew.
Light
Providing this plant with full sun will produce the best blooms. Though it can be grown in part shade, the plant will not flower as abundantly.
Soil
Coral honeysuckle needs well-draining soil. As long as this need is met, this plant can adapt to a variety of soil conditions. If the soil does not drain well enough, adding compost can resolve the issue. Coral honeysuckle prefers acidic to neutral soil pH.
Water
Established plants are very drought tolerant. Regular watering will help promote healthy blooming and is most important for young, establishing plants. Depending on your area, natural rainfall may provide enough water for these plants.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants are both heat tolerant and cold tolerant. Coral honeysuckle can withstand hard frosts and cold temperatures down to USDA zone 4. It prefers medium humidity levels, as high humidity can encourage powdery mildew.
Fertilizer
Coral honeysuckle appreciates a balanced fertilizer during its growing seasons. It does not require large amounts of fertilizer, so adding some to the soil in spring is enough to keep this plant healthy.
Pruning Coral Honeysuckle
The only pruning required of coral honeysuckle is any trimming required to maintain a desired shape or size. Pruning is best done after the first big bloom. This will prevent the removal of blossoms that have not bloomed.
Propagating Coral Honeysuckle
Propagation is easily done with softwood cuttings in late spring or summer. Take note of these instructions:
Using sharp garden snips, trim a softwood vine that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves. It is best to have around 2 exposed nodes near the cut end and two sets of leaves at the tip of the cutting.
At this point, either dip the cut end into rooting hormone and place the cutting in moist soil or place the cutting in water.
Place the cutting in indirect sunlight. If kept in water, be sure to change the water regularly. When roots appear, plant in well-drained potting soil, and continue to grow until large enough for planting in the garden.
As new growth appears and root growth is apparent (tug gently to check for resistance), transfer to your desired planting location.
How to Grow Coral Honeysuckle from Seed
Propagation by seed is another way to grow coral honeysuckle. Here is how to gather and plant seeds:
Remove the berry flesh and place the seeds in the refrigerator for around 3 months for cold stratification.
After this, plant the seeds and cover lightly with well-draining, moist soil.
Place a plastic bag or tray over the seeds to retain moisture.
Keep the soil moist and remove the cover once seedlings appear.
Potting and Repotting Coral Honeysuckle
To grow coral honeysuckle in containers, be sure to choose a container with good drainage holes. Fill it with a well-draining soil mix and keep it in a sunny location. When the honeysuckle fills the pot and no longer has room to grow, gently tip the pot onto its side to work the plant and its root system free. Place the plant in a slightly larger pot and fill it with fresh soil.
Overwintering Coral Honeysuckle
Because coral honeysuckle plants are cold tolerant and can withstand hard frost, there is not much required to overwinter these plants. Planting them near structures such as fences or trellises will help shelter them from cold winds. Additionally, adding mulch in the fall will help to insulate the root system from excessively cold temperatures. If growing in a container that is not winterproof, bring the plant inside to grow as a houseplant during the winter.
This vine has oblong, paired leaves. Leaves located at the upper ends of the vines are connected, creating the appearance of one leaf. Mature vines have papery, orange-brown bark that complements the orange-red flowers. This stunning plant is evergreen in warm climates, though in colder climates it is a perennial vine. When planting, it is best to do so in the spring or fall, as the summer heat will stress a new plant. Alternatively, the coral honeysuckle can also be grown in large containers.
Botanical Name Lonicera sempervirens
Common Name Coral honeysuckle, trumpet honeysuckle
Plant Type Evergreen, perennial, vine
Mature Size 15-25 ft. tall, 15-25 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, pink, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 4-11, USA
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Coral Honeysuckle Care
The coral honeysuckle has easy care requirements. These plants are easy to maintain, since they prove adaptable to many conditions. It needs well-draining soil and full to partial sunshine. Good air circulation will help prevent disease. Aside from pruning vines that have ventured too far, coral honeysuckle thrives when left to weave and wind on its own.
Providing a trellis is a great way to display the abundant flowers of this plant. To do this, gently help the vine wrap around the trellis as it grows, or lightly tie it to the trellis with twine. This climbing vine can also be allowed to creep along the ground as ground cover. Though honeysuckle is often looked at as an invasive species in the US, coral honeysuckle is actually native in to the southeast US. Japanese honeysuckle, on the other hand, is very invasive. The coral honeysuckle is not often troubled by pests or diseases, but they may encounter aphids or powdery mildew.
Light
Providing this plant with full sun will produce the best blooms. Though it can be grown in part shade, the plant will not flower as abundantly.
Soil
Coral honeysuckle needs well-draining soil. As long as this need is met, this plant can adapt to a variety of soil conditions. If the soil does not drain well enough, adding compost can resolve the issue. Coral honeysuckle prefers acidic to neutral soil pH.
Water
Established plants are very drought tolerant. Regular watering will help promote healthy blooming and is most important for young, establishing plants. Depending on your area, natural rainfall may provide enough water for these plants.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants are both heat tolerant and cold tolerant. Coral honeysuckle can withstand hard frosts and cold temperatures down to USDA zone 4. It prefers medium humidity levels, as high humidity can encourage powdery mildew.
Fertilizer
Coral honeysuckle appreciates a balanced fertilizer during its growing seasons. It does not require large amounts of fertilizer, so adding some to the soil in spring is enough to keep this plant healthy.
Pruning Coral Honeysuckle
The only pruning required of coral honeysuckle is any trimming required to maintain a desired shape or size. Pruning is best done after the first big bloom. This will prevent the removal of blossoms that have not bloomed.
Propagating Coral Honeysuckle
Propagation is easily done with softwood cuttings in late spring or summer. Take note of these instructions:
Using sharp garden snips, trim a softwood vine that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the bottom sets of leaves. It is best to have around 2 exposed nodes near the cut end and two sets of leaves at the tip of the cutting.
At this point, either dip the cut end into rooting hormone and place the cutting in moist soil or place the cutting in water.
Place the cutting in indirect sunlight. If kept in water, be sure to change the water regularly. When roots appear, plant in well-drained potting soil, and continue to grow until large enough for planting in the garden.
As new growth appears and root growth is apparent (tug gently to check for resistance), transfer to your desired planting location.
How to Grow Coral Honeysuckle from Seed
Propagation by seed is another way to grow coral honeysuckle. Here is how to gather and plant seeds:
Remove the berry flesh and place the seeds in the refrigerator for around 3 months for cold stratification.
After this, plant the seeds and cover lightly with well-draining, moist soil.
Place a plastic bag or tray over the seeds to retain moisture.
Keep the soil moist and remove the cover once seedlings appear.
Potting and Repotting Coral Honeysuckle
To grow coral honeysuckle in containers, be sure to choose a container with good drainage holes. Fill it with a well-draining soil mix and keep it in a sunny location. When the honeysuckle fills the pot and no longer has room to grow, gently tip the pot onto its side to work the plant and its root system free. Place the plant in a slightly larger pot and fill it with fresh soil.
Overwintering Coral Honeysuckle
Because coral honeysuckle plants are cold tolerant and can withstand hard frost, there is not much required to overwinter these plants. Planting them near structures such as fences or trellises will help shelter them from cold winds. Additionally, adding mulch in the fall will help to insulate the root system from excessively cold temperatures. If growing in a container that is not winterproof, bring the plant inside to grow as a houseplant during the winter.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月30日
The flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) is a thorny, multi-stemmed deciduous shrub with a somewhat messy growth habit but beautiful red, orange, white, or pink flowers to go with shiny, dark green foliage. Related to roses, flowering quince has a thorny habit and easy-to-grow nature that makes it a good choice for barrier or border plantings.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
The shrub is a dense mound of gray-brown spiny twigs with five-petal flowers about 2 inches in diameter. The flowers last for about 10 to 14 days and are followed by yellowish-green fruits that can be used in preserves and jellies. The oval leaves with serrated edges are a glossy dark green, growing to a maximum of about 3.5 inches. Flowering quince is typically planted in the winter months and watered consistently until the roots are established.
Botanical Name Chaenomeles speciosa
Common Names Flowering quince, Chinese flowering quince
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size 6-10 ft. tall, 6-10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late winter, early spring
Flower Color White, orange, red, or pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Flowering Quince Care
Most gardeners find flowering quince to be easy to grow and care for. It grows adequately in most soil types other than alkaline clay, and pruning is necessary only if you decide to shape the shrub.
Its dense, thorny growth habit makes flowering quince a good low-maintenance option where a dense, impenetrable hedge, shrub, or border is required. If you don't want the shrub to spread, then make sure to remove suckers at ground level as they appear.
With its thorny habit and relatively short bloom season, flowering quince is not a great specimen plant, but it works well planted in mass along borders or as an informal barrier hedge. In large mixed borders, it can provide an early-spring accent. The fruit from quince shrubs (especially the related C. japonica) can be used in jams and jellies. Flowering quinces are known to be plants that attract hummingbirds.
Light
Grow flowering quince shrubs in full sun. It can grow in partial sun, but the flower display will be better if the plant is exposed to full sunlight.
Soil
Plant flowering quince shrubs in well-drained loam soil for the best flowering display. An overly alkaline soil pH can lead to problems with chlorosis, so keep the soil pH slightly acidic or neutral.1
These plants can be grown in clay and sandy soils but may be less vigorous.
Water
Mulch the base of the shrubs to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. While these are reasonably drought-tolerant shrubs once established, young plants will need to be watered at times. Water in the morning so excess moisture has time to dry before evening. Sprayed water can cause leaf spots, and leaves may drop if the foliage stays wet.
Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining an even temperature and humidity are crucial for propagating flowering quince via stem cuttings. Temperature also plays a big part in growing this plant from seeds. Once flowering quince is established, though, the plant is quite forgiving of a wide range of temperature and humidity levels. This shrub is quite cold-hardy, tolerating temperatures as low as minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Feed flowering quince with a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring before new growth occurs, or apply compost as a soil amendment. Scatter the fertilizer carefully on the soil around the plant; do not let it touch the foliage, as it can scorch the leaves. Follow with a deep watering to distribute the fertilizer around the roots.
Flowering Quince Varieties
Flowering quince is a member of the rose family as evidenced by its thorny stems and flowers and leaves that resemble those of roses. It is one of the oldest of all landscape plants, having been cultivated for thousands of years in Asia.
In natural environments, the different varieties of the native species grow six to 10 feet high with a similar spread. Several cultivars of flowering quince are commonly sold at garden centers, and there are also hybrid crosses of other Chaenomeles species. These are a few of the smaller-sized varieties:
Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail' grows 3 to 4 feet tall with white flowers.
Chaenomeles speciosa 'Orange Delight' has bright orange double blooms that make for a gorgeous spring display.
Double Take series: 'Scarlet Storm,' 'Orange Storm,' and 'Pink Storm' grow to 5 feet high with double flowers of scarlet, orange, or pink. They are grown in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8. This series is deer-resistant, but they are not resistant to rabbits.
Propagating Flowering Quince
Propagating flowering quince is done through stem rooting or seeds.
Seeds: In order for seeds to germinate, they must go through stratification or a freeze and thaw cycle. You can mimic the winter cold by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 60 to 90 days; then remove them, plant in soil, water, and cover with plastic until germination occurs. Transplant seedlings into separate containers once two sets of true leaves develop. Keep the soil moist but not damp. Continue growing the plants until they reach a height of about 12 inches, then transplant.
Cuttings: Cut several stem clippings (about 6 inches long) from the previous year's growth. The diameter of the stems should be that of a pencil. Leave the top leaves intact, but remove the rest of the leaves. Score the bottom section of each stem cutting to reveal the cambium layer beneath the bark. Dip the cutting in a rooting hormone, then embed it in a well-watered, sandy, general-purpose soil. Cover with plastic and set it in a spot with bright light but not direct sun. After a month, check to see if the cutting has rooted by gently tugging the stem. If the stem resists pulling, then it is rooting properly. Wait one more month and then transplant outdoors.
Pruning
Prune just after blooming is over since the bushes bloom on old wood. Pruning should be fairly light, but when done immediately after blooming it will stimulate new growth that makes for more profuse blooming the following spring.
Common Pests/Diseases
Flowering quince is susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Fireblight and scab can sometimes occur. Aphids can badly damage new growth but the damage is not life-threatening. Other insect pests include scale and mites. Chlorosis (yellowing of the foliage) can occur in high pH (alkaline) soils.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月21日
The cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has earned its reputation as a hard-to-kill houseplant, along with being a beautiful outdoor foliage plant within its growing zones. This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. It has arching, lance-shaped, deep green, glossy leaves that can reach around 2 feet long and 4 inches wide. When grown outdoors, it sometimes produces insignificant cream and purple flowers near the base of the plant, but the blossoms usually do not appear when the plant is grown indoors. The cast-iron plant has a fairly slow growth rate, and spring is generally the best time to plant it.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月02日
You may be familiar with capers, used for culinary purposes around the world, without realizing that they actually come from a popular (and quite beautiful) bush. Native to the Mediterranean, the caper bush is most often grown for its unripened flower buds, which are picked, dried, and brined, then used to add a burst of tangy, intense flavor to a variety of dishes.
Even if you're not a fan of capers, these plants can make a wonderful addition to your garden. Best planted in the spring, caper bushes produce fragrant and ornamental white flowers with beautiful violet stamens. The flowers only last for a day, but if you let the bush spread freely, you're likely to see flowers all through the summer.
These plants grow slowly, reaching maturity in about two years and hitting optimal bud production the following year. They're well-suited to gravelly soil, so they can make a good addition to a courtyard or rock garden that gets plenty of sunlight. Traditional caper bushes have sharp thorns on their vines, but many commercial varieties have been developed to be spineless.
Botanical Name Capparis spinosa
Common Name Caper bush
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, early fall
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Caper Bush Care
Under the right conditions, caper bushes will grow prolifically and won't require a lot of maintenance. They don't need much water and can handle even rocky, nutrient-poor soil, so even novice gardeners (and those with less-than-desirable landscapes) will likely find success with them. Additionally, caper bushes have no serious issues with pests or diseases.
Light
Caper bushes need plenty of direct sunlight to thrive. Plant them somewhere where they can get at least six to eight hours of light a day. If partial shade is the only option in your landscape, aim for a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, which will shield them from the hottest part of the day.
Soil
Caper bushes are pretty easy-going when it comes to their soil. They do well in blends of all types, including soil that is low in nutrients, sandy, or especially gravelly. The same goes for the pH level of their soil—acidic, neutral, and alkaline are all fine options. The only necessity caper bushes have is a planting location that is well-draining. The bush hates "wet feet" and will fail to thrive if its soil does not dry out quickly.
Water
Caper bushes have a deep root system and foliage that finds and retain moisture easily. When you first plant them, they will need more frequent watering in order to establish themselves in your landscape. After this, only minimal watering will be necessary and the plant will become drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Just like in their native environment, caper bushes will thrive in locations where they can experience dry heat. In very hot regions, the plant can remain evergreen, but it will lose its leaves if temperatures drop significantly in winter. If you experience hot summers but chillier winters, you can consider keeping your bush in a suitably sized container and bring it indoors when the temperatures drop. Caper bushes are only hardy down to around 18 degrees Fahrenheit and will die if exposed to temperatures lower than this.
Fertilizer
An established caper bush can thrive in highly infertile soil and won't need additional feeding. However, for the first couple of years, while the plant is still young, feeding with a slow-release fertilizer solution a few times in the spring and summer can be beneficial.
Pruning Caper Bush
Hard pruning your caper bush each winter will encourage healthy new blooms the following year and help the shrub maintain a tidy shape. For newer young plants, wait several years to prune them as they get established—they should be producing buds for at least two years before you start pruning.
Propagating Caper Bush
Patience, perseverance, and care are required if you plan on trying to grow caper bushes from stem cuttings. Select spring basal cuttings that have a decent number of buds on them—ideally, they should be around 4 inches long. Dip the base of the cutting in a rooting hormone to up the chances of establishment, then plant in soil and keep warm and moist for at least two weeks.
How to Grow Caper Bush From Seed
Many gardeners opt to buy a young caper bush from a nursery, as the dormant seeds from the plant are known for being tricky to germinate. If you want to give it a try, begin by soaking the seeds for 24 hours. If the seeds aren't fresh, they will also need a period of cold stratification—the seeds should be kept moist, sealed, and refrigerated for at least a couple of months.
After the stratification process is complete, make sure that you give the seeds an additional 24 hours soaking in warm water before sowing them. The medium you choose to sow the seeds in should be loose, well-draining, and moist. Although germination can start around a month after sowing, it can also take up to three months.
Great care should be taken when transplanting delicate seedlings—they don't take kindly to having their roots disturbed. Overly hot or cold temperatures are also problematic, and seedings should be kept out of direct sunlight or housed indoors during colder temperatures until they're well-established.
Harvesting Capers
Once your bush is producing well, you'll be able to start harvesting buds during the summer. Make sure any buds you pick are dark green, tight, and at least 1/4-inch wide. Pick them in the morning—they may start to open as the day gets hotter. The buds will then need to be sun-dried before they're brined, salted, or pickled.
Even if you're not a fan of capers, these plants can make a wonderful addition to your garden. Best planted in the spring, caper bushes produce fragrant and ornamental white flowers with beautiful violet stamens. The flowers only last for a day, but if you let the bush spread freely, you're likely to see flowers all through the summer.
These plants grow slowly, reaching maturity in about two years and hitting optimal bud production the following year. They're well-suited to gravelly soil, so they can make a good addition to a courtyard or rock garden that gets plenty of sunlight. Traditional caper bushes have sharp thorns on their vines, but many commercial varieties have been developed to be spineless.
Botanical Name Capparis spinosa
Common Name Caper bush
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer, early fall
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Caper Bush Care
Under the right conditions, caper bushes will grow prolifically and won't require a lot of maintenance. They don't need much water and can handle even rocky, nutrient-poor soil, so even novice gardeners (and those with less-than-desirable landscapes) will likely find success with them. Additionally, caper bushes have no serious issues with pests or diseases.
Light
Caper bushes need plenty of direct sunlight to thrive. Plant them somewhere where they can get at least six to eight hours of light a day. If partial shade is the only option in your landscape, aim for a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, which will shield them from the hottest part of the day.
Soil
Caper bushes are pretty easy-going when it comes to their soil. They do well in blends of all types, including soil that is low in nutrients, sandy, or especially gravelly. The same goes for the pH level of their soil—acidic, neutral, and alkaline are all fine options. The only necessity caper bushes have is a planting location that is well-draining. The bush hates "wet feet" and will fail to thrive if its soil does not dry out quickly.
Water
Caper bushes have a deep root system and foliage that finds and retain moisture easily. When you first plant them, they will need more frequent watering in order to establish themselves in your landscape. After this, only minimal watering will be necessary and the plant will become drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Just like in their native environment, caper bushes will thrive in locations where they can experience dry heat. In very hot regions, the plant can remain evergreen, but it will lose its leaves if temperatures drop significantly in winter. If you experience hot summers but chillier winters, you can consider keeping your bush in a suitably sized container and bring it indoors when the temperatures drop. Caper bushes are only hardy down to around 18 degrees Fahrenheit and will die if exposed to temperatures lower than this.
Fertilizer
An established caper bush can thrive in highly infertile soil and won't need additional feeding. However, for the first couple of years, while the plant is still young, feeding with a slow-release fertilizer solution a few times in the spring and summer can be beneficial.
Pruning Caper Bush
Hard pruning your caper bush each winter will encourage healthy new blooms the following year and help the shrub maintain a tidy shape. For newer young plants, wait several years to prune them as they get established—they should be producing buds for at least two years before you start pruning.
Propagating Caper Bush
Patience, perseverance, and care are required if you plan on trying to grow caper bushes from stem cuttings. Select spring basal cuttings that have a decent number of buds on them—ideally, they should be around 4 inches long. Dip the base of the cutting in a rooting hormone to up the chances of establishment, then plant in soil and keep warm and moist for at least two weeks.
How to Grow Caper Bush From Seed
Many gardeners opt to buy a young caper bush from a nursery, as the dormant seeds from the plant are known for being tricky to germinate. If you want to give it a try, begin by soaking the seeds for 24 hours. If the seeds aren't fresh, they will also need a period of cold stratification—the seeds should be kept moist, sealed, and refrigerated for at least a couple of months.
After the stratification process is complete, make sure that you give the seeds an additional 24 hours soaking in warm water before sowing them. The medium you choose to sow the seeds in should be loose, well-draining, and moist. Although germination can start around a month after sowing, it can also take up to three months.
Great care should be taken when transplanting delicate seedlings—they don't take kindly to having their roots disturbed. Overly hot or cold temperatures are also problematic, and seedings should be kept out of direct sunlight or housed indoors during colder temperatures until they're well-established.
Harvesting Capers
Once your bush is producing well, you'll be able to start harvesting buds during the summer. Make sure any buds you pick are dark green, tight, and at least 1/4-inch wide. Pick them in the morning—they may start to open as the day gets hotter. The buds will then need to be sun-dried before they're brined, salted, or pickled.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月27日
Leafy cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a vegetable grown for its densely packed heads. Some can be quite beautiful. They are classified by head shape, round and flat-head being the most commonly seen. There are cabbages with smooth leaves and pronounced veins and some with crinkled, or savoyed, leaves. You'll find cabbages in shades of white, green, and purple, and the flavor varies by variety. There are even ornamental cabbage varieties bred for their looks, not their flavor.
Cabbage is in the Brassica genus along with broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops. Cabbages are some of the most popular vegetables to grow, although most home gardeners tend to grow a small fraction of the hundreds of varieties available.
Cabbage plants are moderately fast growers and typically are ready to harvest about two months after the seedlings emerge or are transplanted in the garden. They are biennial plants that are typically grown as annuals. These are cool-weather plants that grow best in late-summer to fall in most climates. They can also be planted in spring.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea
Common Name Cabbage, Head cabbage
Plant Type Biennial (typically grown as annual)
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral (above 6.8)
Bloom Time Typically does not flower
Flower Color Typically does not flower
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Cabbage
Cabbage plants can grow in cool weather, so you can get an early start on the season. They can also be re-seeded throughout the summer, provided the temperature isn't to high, to provide a continual harvest of heads as you need them, rather than having them all mature at the same time.
There are cabbage seedlings available at every garden center in spring, but for the best variety you will need to start yours from seed. Luckily that's easy to do. You can start seeds indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before your last expected frost date. Because cabbages can handle a little frost, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date, as long as the soil is workable. Later plantings can be direct sown in the garden.
Plant transplants, or thin direct-sown seedlings, to a spacing of about 1 to 2 feet.
Cabbage Care
Light
Cabbage plants can handle full sun to light shade. Since cabbage plants are not setting flowers or fruit, they do not need a full day of sun. Gardeners in warmer climates will want to provide some shade during hot months, so the plants do not dry out.
Soil
Cabbages need a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. To help prevent a common cabbage disease called club root that is most prevalent in acidic soil, keep the soil pH above 6.8.
Water
The biggest maintenance issue when growing cabbages is keeping them watered. Watering is also the key to preventing the heads from splitting. You want the cabbage heads to fill out, but not so quickly they burst open.
Temperature and Humidity
Cabbages do best in the relative cool of spring and fall and begin to suffer when daily temperatures stay around 80 Fahrenheit and above. Afternoon shade is recommended during the high heat of summer.
Fertilizer
Cabbages can be heavy feeders, and side-dressing with compost every three weeks will keep the soil rich.
Cabbage Varieties
'Drumhead' has deeply savoyed leaves and a wonderful savory crunch.
'Early Jersey Wakefield' is a classic cabbage that has been popular for years.
'January King' is a beautiful purple and green cabbage that is extremely frost-hardy.
'Murdoc' has a pointed head and tender, sweet leaves.
'Red Acre' and 'Red Delight' are early, easy-to-grow purple varieties.
Harvesting
The length of time a cabbage takes to mature will vary by variety, but most require about 50 to 60 days from transplant. Harvest when the head forms fully (depending on the variety) and they are firm to the touch. If you leave the heads on the plants for too long, they may split.
You can remove the entire plant, or cut off the head at its base and leave the wide, outer leaves and roots in the ground for a second harvest; keep just a few of the new heads and let them grow to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter before harvesting.
Cabbages can be stored for months in a root cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing.
Common Pests and Diseases
Unfortunately, there are many problems that plague cabbage. Cabbage worms and cabbage loopers are the main pest threats. They will munch holes throughout the leaves. Their coloring allows them to blend in with the cabbage, but they can be handpicked easily if you can see them. Slugs will also attack your cabbages as will cutworms.
Diseases include club root; a fungus called blackleg that causes dark spots on the stems and leaves; black rot, which affects the veins, making them dark and foul-smelling; and the yellows (fusarium wilt), which leaves you with stunted, yellow heads.
Once your cabbages are infected, there's not much you can do. You have to prevent these diseases by choosing disease-resistant varieties and by not growing cabbages in the same spot year after year. The fungus spores can remain in the soil over winter and reinfect new plantings.
Another preventative measure is to never leave cabbage debris, or any cole crop debris, in the garden over winter. Once again, the spores can linger and over-winter, waiting to reinfect next year's plants.
Cabbage is in the Brassica genus along with broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops. Cabbages are some of the most popular vegetables to grow, although most home gardeners tend to grow a small fraction of the hundreds of varieties available.
Cabbage plants are moderately fast growers and typically are ready to harvest about two months after the seedlings emerge or are transplanted in the garden. They are biennial plants that are typically grown as annuals. These are cool-weather plants that grow best in late-summer to fall in most climates. They can also be planted in spring.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea
Common Name Cabbage, Head cabbage
Plant Type Biennial (typically grown as annual)
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral (above 6.8)
Bloom Time Typically does not flower
Flower Color Typically does not flower
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Cabbage
Cabbage plants can grow in cool weather, so you can get an early start on the season. They can also be re-seeded throughout the summer, provided the temperature isn't to high, to provide a continual harvest of heads as you need them, rather than having them all mature at the same time.
There are cabbage seedlings available at every garden center in spring, but for the best variety you will need to start yours from seed. Luckily that's easy to do. You can start seeds indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before your last expected frost date. Because cabbages can handle a little frost, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date, as long as the soil is workable. Later plantings can be direct sown in the garden.
Plant transplants, or thin direct-sown seedlings, to a spacing of about 1 to 2 feet.
Cabbage Care
Light
Cabbage plants can handle full sun to light shade. Since cabbage plants are not setting flowers or fruit, they do not need a full day of sun. Gardeners in warmer climates will want to provide some shade during hot months, so the plants do not dry out.
Soil
Cabbages need a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. To help prevent a common cabbage disease called club root that is most prevalent in acidic soil, keep the soil pH above 6.8.
Water
The biggest maintenance issue when growing cabbages is keeping them watered. Watering is also the key to preventing the heads from splitting. You want the cabbage heads to fill out, but not so quickly they burst open.
Temperature and Humidity
Cabbages do best in the relative cool of spring and fall and begin to suffer when daily temperatures stay around 80 Fahrenheit and above. Afternoon shade is recommended during the high heat of summer.
Fertilizer
Cabbages can be heavy feeders, and side-dressing with compost every three weeks will keep the soil rich.
Cabbage Varieties
'Drumhead' has deeply savoyed leaves and a wonderful savory crunch.
'Early Jersey Wakefield' is a classic cabbage that has been popular for years.
'January King' is a beautiful purple and green cabbage that is extremely frost-hardy.
'Murdoc' has a pointed head and tender, sweet leaves.
'Red Acre' and 'Red Delight' are early, easy-to-grow purple varieties.
Harvesting
The length of time a cabbage takes to mature will vary by variety, but most require about 50 to 60 days from transplant. Harvest when the head forms fully (depending on the variety) and they are firm to the touch. If you leave the heads on the plants for too long, they may split.
You can remove the entire plant, or cut off the head at its base and leave the wide, outer leaves and roots in the ground for a second harvest; keep just a few of the new heads and let them grow to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter before harvesting.
Cabbages can be stored for months in a root cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing.
Common Pests and Diseases
Unfortunately, there are many problems that plague cabbage. Cabbage worms and cabbage loopers are the main pest threats. They will munch holes throughout the leaves. Their coloring allows them to blend in with the cabbage, but they can be handpicked easily if you can see them. Slugs will also attack your cabbages as will cutworms.
Diseases include club root; a fungus called blackleg that causes dark spots on the stems and leaves; black rot, which affects the veins, making them dark and foul-smelling; and the yellows (fusarium wilt), which leaves you with stunted, yellow heads.
Once your cabbages are infected, there's not much you can do. You have to prevent these diseases by choosing disease-resistant varieties and by not growing cabbages in the same spot year after year. The fungus spores can remain in the soil over winter and reinfect new plantings.
Another preventative measure is to never leave cabbage debris, or any cole crop debris, in the garden over winter. Once again, the spores can linger and over-winter, waiting to reinfect next year's plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月28日
The showy bromeliad may look difficult to grow but it can easily adapt to average home conditions with its astonishing array of colors and textures. Although many do have very splashy flower displays, bromeliads are just as popular as beautiful foliage plants with leaves in red, green, purple, orange, and yellow colors and with bands, stripes, spots, and other features. Bromeliads are relatively slow-growing plants that take one to three years to mature into flowering plants.
Common Name Bromeliad
Botanical Name Bromeliaceae genera
Family Bromeliaceae
Plant Type Perennials; family includes both epiphyte ("air plant") and terrestrial species
Mature Size Varies by genera and species
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Fast-draining potting soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Blooms once; timing varies
Flower Color Red, green, purple, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); usually grown as houseplants
Native Area Tropical and subtropical Americas
Bromeliad Care
In general, bromeliads need a fairly specific set of conditions to bloom—and these conditions vary from genus to genus, and even from species to species in a single genus. Their bloom cycle is affected by day length, temperature, humidity, water, and feeding. You will need to research specific genera and species to determine how best to grow them.
Bromeliad species can either be terrestrial (grown in soil) or epiphytic (clinging to trees and absorbing nutrients through their leaves), but when grown as houseplants, both types are usually grown in a porous, well-draining potting mixture. As a general rule of thumb, bromeliads will thrive in the same conditions as epiphytic orchids. However, they are considerably more tolerant than orchids of fluctuations in temperature, drought, and careless feeding.
When cultivated as indoor plants, most bromeliads—both epiphytic and terrestrial species—are usually planted in a mixture of potting soil and sand. Watering is done either by moistening the soil or by filling the center depression ("cup") formed by the rosette of leaves.
Light
Different genera of bromeliads are tolerant of different levels of light. Some can withstand full tropical sun, while others will quickly scorch. In general, the varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light.
Plants that are yellowish might be receiving too much light, while plants that are dark green or elongated might be receiving too little light. Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.1
Soil
Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture but drains well. A mixture of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand is often ideal. You can also use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many bromeliads that are epiphytic can be grown in containers, or you can try to grow them as authentic "air plants" mounted to boards or logs (typically secured with ties or glue).
Water
Bromeliads are very tolerant of drought conditions. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water. But this is an option if the light levels and temperature are high. If you do centrally water your bromeliad, make sure to flush the central cup every so often to remove any built-up salts. But in general, it's enough to water these plants very sparingly through the soil weekly during the growing season and reduce watering during the winter rest period. Never let the plant rest in standing water.1
Plants you are growing as epiphytes (as air plants without soil) need more consistent watering; drench them once a day, and give them a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Bromeliads are also highly tolerant of temperature variations, but plants in hotter conditions need more humidity. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees, they should generally not be exposed to temperatures under 40 degrees.1 They grow well indoors at humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer.
Fertilizer
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at one-eighth or one-quarter strength, applied every two to four weeks. If you use a slow-release pellet fertilizer, apply a single pellet once each season when watering the central cup. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower.
Types of Bromeliads
Although houseplant bromeliads are usually grown in a blended potting mix, many species are epiphytic plants when found in their native range—the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Some common genera of bromeliads used as houseplants include:
Guzmania: This genus includes most of the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii , G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia. These plants have long, flat glossy green leaves. The most common varieties have bracts that are bright red (one common name for this plant is scarlet star), but depending on species, there are some that are yellow, orange, purple, or pink. The blooms are very long-lasting, holding up for two to four months.
Neoregelia: This is the most diverse of all the bromeliad genera. Those species used as houseplants have some of the most colorful bracts, ranging from pink to deep purple. These plants form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves; some miniatures are no more than 1 inch across while other plants can be as much as 40 inches wide.
Vriesea: The species in the Vriesea genus features tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea' Fireworks'.
Ananas comosus 'Champaca':Ananas is the genus that includes the common pineapple, and the cultivar of one species, A. Comosus 'Champaca', is an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant. This bromeliad features spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike.
Propagating Bromeliads
Propagating bromeliads from shoots is preferred over the less common and difficult way of growing the plant from seeds. Bromeliads multiply by sending up offsets, or pups. In a natural growth cycle, a mature plant will send up a flower spike that includes small, sometimes insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. (It's really the bracts that are most appealing in these plants). The flower bracts are often long-lasting—sometimes for months.
After the flower dies, the plant also begins to die over the next few months. However, the parent plant will send out one or several smaller pups at its base. These pups can be carefully cut off with sterile scissors and potted individually in their own containers. Pups should only be potted after they develop a few roots and begin to form the central cup that's characteristic of bromeliads.
Common Pests
Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests.1 You can eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom
While it can be difficult to accurately replicate the conditions any particular bromeliad needs to bloom, some research has shown the plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas.2 So if you want to force your plant to spike, place it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Make sure any water is drained from the bromeliad's central cup before attempting this.
Common Problems With Bromeliads
Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they can be prone to some cultural issues. Stay aware of the following problems:
Overwatering
When you're watering, if you're over-saturating the potting soil rather than filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves, bromeliads can develop rot. These are plants that prefer relatively dry conditions.3
Hard Water
Water high in mineral content can cause water spots on the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.4
Improper Container
Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots that won't collect a lot of water. Planting them in a too large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
Common Name Bromeliad
Botanical Name Bromeliaceae genera
Family Bromeliaceae
Plant Type Perennials; family includes both epiphyte ("air plant") and terrestrial species
Mature Size Varies by genera and species
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Fast-draining potting soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Blooms once; timing varies
Flower Color Red, green, purple, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); usually grown as houseplants
Native Area Tropical and subtropical Americas
Bromeliad Care
In general, bromeliads need a fairly specific set of conditions to bloom—and these conditions vary from genus to genus, and even from species to species in a single genus. Their bloom cycle is affected by day length, temperature, humidity, water, and feeding. You will need to research specific genera and species to determine how best to grow them.
Bromeliad species can either be terrestrial (grown in soil) or epiphytic (clinging to trees and absorbing nutrients through their leaves), but when grown as houseplants, both types are usually grown in a porous, well-draining potting mixture. As a general rule of thumb, bromeliads will thrive in the same conditions as epiphytic orchids. However, they are considerably more tolerant than orchids of fluctuations in temperature, drought, and careless feeding.
When cultivated as indoor plants, most bromeliads—both epiphytic and terrestrial species—are usually planted in a mixture of potting soil and sand. Watering is done either by moistening the soil or by filling the center depression ("cup") formed by the rosette of leaves.
Light
Different genera of bromeliads are tolerant of different levels of light. Some can withstand full tropical sun, while others will quickly scorch. In general, the varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light.
Plants that are yellowish might be receiving too much light, while plants that are dark green or elongated might be receiving too little light. Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.1
Soil
Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture but drains well. A mixture of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand is often ideal. You can also use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many bromeliads that are epiphytic can be grown in containers, or you can try to grow them as authentic "air plants" mounted to boards or logs (typically secured with ties or glue).
Water
Bromeliads are very tolerant of drought conditions. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water. But this is an option if the light levels and temperature are high. If you do centrally water your bromeliad, make sure to flush the central cup every so often to remove any built-up salts. But in general, it's enough to water these plants very sparingly through the soil weekly during the growing season and reduce watering during the winter rest period. Never let the plant rest in standing water.1
Plants you are growing as epiphytes (as air plants without soil) need more consistent watering; drench them once a day, and give them a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Bromeliads are also highly tolerant of temperature variations, but plants in hotter conditions need more humidity. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees, they should generally not be exposed to temperatures under 40 degrees.1 They grow well indoors at humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer.
Fertilizer
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at one-eighth or one-quarter strength, applied every two to four weeks. If you use a slow-release pellet fertilizer, apply a single pellet once each season when watering the central cup. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower.
Types of Bromeliads
Although houseplant bromeliads are usually grown in a blended potting mix, many species are epiphytic plants when found in their native range—the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Some common genera of bromeliads used as houseplants include:
Guzmania: This genus includes most of the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii , G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia. These plants have long, flat glossy green leaves. The most common varieties have bracts that are bright red (one common name for this plant is scarlet star), but depending on species, there are some that are yellow, orange, purple, or pink. The blooms are very long-lasting, holding up for two to four months.
Neoregelia: This is the most diverse of all the bromeliad genera. Those species used as houseplants have some of the most colorful bracts, ranging from pink to deep purple. These plants form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves; some miniatures are no more than 1 inch across while other plants can be as much as 40 inches wide.
Vriesea: The species in the Vriesea genus features tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea' Fireworks'.
Ananas comosus 'Champaca':Ananas is the genus that includes the common pineapple, and the cultivar of one species, A. Comosus 'Champaca', is an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant. This bromeliad features spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike.
Propagating Bromeliads
Propagating bromeliads from shoots is preferred over the less common and difficult way of growing the plant from seeds. Bromeliads multiply by sending up offsets, or pups. In a natural growth cycle, a mature plant will send up a flower spike that includes small, sometimes insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. (It's really the bracts that are most appealing in these plants). The flower bracts are often long-lasting—sometimes for months.
After the flower dies, the plant also begins to die over the next few months. However, the parent plant will send out one or several smaller pups at its base. These pups can be carefully cut off with sterile scissors and potted individually in their own containers. Pups should only be potted after they develop a few roots and begin to form the central cup that's characteristic of bromeliads.
Common Pests
Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests.1 You can eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom
While it can be difficult to accurately replicate the conditions any particular bromeliad needs to bloom, some research has shown the plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas.2 So if you want to force your plant to spike, place it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Make sure any water is drained from the bromeliad's central cup before attempting this.
Common Problems With Bromeliads
Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they can be prone to some cultural issues. Stay aware of the following problems:
Overwatering
When you're watering, if you're over-saturating the potting soil rather than filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves, bromeliads can develop rot. These are plants that prefer relatively dry conditions.3
Hard Water
Water high in mineral content can cause water spots on the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.4
Improper Container
Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots that won't collect a lot of water. Planting them in a too large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月20日
Calla lilies are gracefully-shaped flowers that are sought after for both special occasion bouquets and beautiful home gardens. The blooms are truly timeless, and calla lilies have a storied history, including mentions in Greek and Roman mythology, where they were tied to both Hera, the goddess of marriage and birth, and Venus, the goddess of love and beauty.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
Native to Africa, calla lilies also grow in other tropical climates, but can sometimes be considered invasive, specifically in Western Australia and some areas of the southern United States. The blooms come in a range of colors, from white and pale pink to deep burgundy, with some recent hybrids in dramatic colors like bright orange and black. They are a long-lasting cut flower and are popular in floral arrangements for this reason, especially when it comes to weddings.
When growing calla lilies for yourself, be sure to plant them in the springtime. They will grow moderately fast, often producing flowers by early-to-mid-summer and blooming throughout the season until early fall.
Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica
Common Name Calla lily, arum lily
Plant Type Rhizome
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, coral, maroon, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10
Native Areas Southern Africa, South Africa, Swaziland
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Calla Lily Care
Calla lilies are easy to grow outside, as long as you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10. They grow from a rhizome, not from a bulb, which is a key indicator that they're not actually true lilies. Calla lilies will die back in summer and regrow each year, but in colder zones, you can plant calla lilies as an annual. By doing so, you'll have to either dig up and overwinter the rhizomes or buy new rhizomes each growing season.
Light
True to their tropical nature, calla lilies thrive in a warm environment, which includes plenty of light. If you live in an area that boasts hot and humid summer weather, your calla lilies will probably do better in a spot that experiences partial shade, while calla lilies grown in a slightly more temperate summer climate can handle full sunlight.
Soil
A rich, moist, well-drained soil is best to keep calla lilies blooming. Calla lilies often do well growing alongside ponds and can happily tolerate a moist soil location, though you should avoid allowing them to become waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. To increase the nutritional density of your soil, you can amend it with organic matter before planting your flowers.
Water
Don't water your calla lilies too heavily, especially after initially planting them. Once the rhizomes are established, you can water the plants once a week, or more frequently if experiencing especially hot or drought-like conditions. Calla lily plants potted indoors will need constant moisture, as pots will dry out sooner than ground plantings.
Temperature and Humidity
Calla lilies like a fairly warm environment and temperatures that range between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for them. They also enjoy a decent amount of humidity and moisture, so humid summers keep the flowers blooming just fine. If temperatures go much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will tend to go dormant. If you want to dig up your rhizomes for overwintering, do so before temperatures go below freezing in your area in the fall.
Fertilizer
Calla lilies need feeding upon planting, and again every spring at the beginning of their growing season, in order to promote bountiful flowering. Most well-balanced fertilizers will work just fine, but avoid choosing a blend with too much nitrogen, which can reduce the plant's flowering.
Potting and Repotting Calla Lily
One indication that your calla lilies are ready for a bigger pot is if the roots look slightly crowded. Root-bound plants are not likely to thrive, so you should replant your blooms if you notice an issue with their roots.
Repotting calla lilies is actually pretty easy—to do so, carefully lift the flowers out of their smaller pot and gently place them into the larger one taking care not to damage the delicate roots. Fill the new pot with soil up to about an inch from the pot's rim. Calla lilies need to be kept moist for a few days after repotting, so make sure to keep an eye on the soil's moisture levels.
Propagating Calla Lily
Calla lilies can be propagated from rhizomes by dividing plants that have been growing outdoors. Over time, calla lilies grown outdoors will form large clumps that can be easily divided into smaller units and planted that way. After several years these divisions tend to lose vigor, so most people who want to grow them outdoors will invest in new divisions (available from catalogs) or nursery plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
There are several issues you may have to contend with when growing calla lilies, most notably bacterial soft rot, which affects the rhizomes,1 and botrytis, which is a fungal disease that causes a filmy grey mold to grow over the plant's petals, stems, and leaves.2 To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, be mindful of watering frequency, and be sure to plant your calla lilies far enough apart so that they have ample air circulation.
Various pests can also be an issue for calla lilies, including insects like aphids, slugs, and spider mites.3 To combat these issues, treat the plants with a mild insecticidal soap or horticultural oil like neem oil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月11日
Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), also called common bugleweed, is a fast-growing herbaceous perennial ground cover (the species name reptans means "creeping"). Although it produces beautiful flower spikes and is available in several different cultivars that work well in landscaping, it can also make quite a nuisance of itself through its aggressive spreading via underground runners (called stolens). However, there are a few situations in which its good qualities will be enough reason for some gardeners to grow it.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月09日
Tillandsia stricta is a common species in the air plant family, but this doesn’t make them any less special. Their versatility makes them a popular choice, and their vibrant blooms make them a beautiful addition to your home.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月25日
Hailing from Southeast Asia, Amazon elephant's ear is a popular tropical plant that is sometimes also referred to as African mask. It's a hybrid varietal that makes a striking and beautiful houseplant and is typically sold as such. It can be purchased, planted, and cared for year-round in an indoor environment.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月14日
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique and beautiful plant type. It usually blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. After each flowering, the plant will wither and die. It is best to ensure sufficient light treatment every day during the growth period. It needs to be placed in the shade in summer, and control a certain temperature difference, which is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月04日
There are more and more people who like succulents in their lives. Keeping some succulents at home can beautify life and increase interest. There are many kinds of succulents, many of them are very beautiful, some of them have beautiful names in them, which are easy to feed and live, and have a beautiful appearance. Let's take a look!
-Winter Beauty-
Dongmei is a succulent variety that entered the country very early. It has thick leaves, cold and heat resistant, and is very easy to raise. It can be placed on the balcony without worrying about it, and it can grow well by itself. When there is sufficient sunshine, the edge of the leaf will have a slight pink color with a layer of white powder, which is particularly beautiful.
-Three Sun Moon Beauty-
Sanriyue Beauty is a more beautiful variety in the Succulent Beauty series. It has a similar sense of transparency. The leaves are thick and relatively flat. The leaf tips are red, more prominent, very transparent, and have a higher appearance.
-Ji Xing Beauty-
The Ji Xing Meiren plant is relatively small and cute, but it grows fast and is easy to burst. Common varieties include Xuan Ye Ji Xing Mei Ren, Da Ji Xing Mei Ren, etc., which can be placed on the windowsill and occasionally watered for a few months. It grows into a big pot, and the speed is amazing.
-Peach Beauty-
Peach Beauty has thick leaves, with a layer of white powder on the leaf surface. The leaves are pink, and the appearance is relatively high. Peach Beauty has leaf tips. When there is sufficient sunshine, it will turn red. It is very beautiful and even higher than the appearance of a peach egg. some.
-Winter Beauty-
Dongmei is a succulent variety that entered the country very early. It has thick leaves, cold and heat resistant, and is very easy to raise. It can be placed on the balcony without worrying about it, and it can grow well by itself. When there is sufficient sunshine, the edge of the leaf will have a slight pink color with a layer of white powder, which is particularly beautiful.
-Three Sun Moon Beauty-
Sanriyue Beauty is a more beautiful variety in the Succulent Beauty series. It has a similar sense of transparency. The leaves are thick and relatively flat. The leaf tips are red, more prominent, very transparent, and have a higher appearance.
-Ji Xing Beauty-
The Ji Xing Meiren plant is relatively small and cute, but it grows fast and is easy to burst. Common varieties include Xuan Ye Ji Xing Mei Ren, Da Ji Xing Mei Ren, etc., which can be placed on the windowsill and occasionally watered for a few months. It grows into a big pot, and the speed is amazing.
-Peach Beauty-
Peach Beauty has thick leaves, with a layer of white powder on the leaf surface. The leaves are pink, and the appearance is relatively high. Peach Beauty has leaf tips. When there is sufficient sunshine, it will turn red. It is very beautiful and even higher than the appearance of a peach egg. some.
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