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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaf blight, Volutella pachysandrae, on Japanese pachysandra can be very detrimental to the plant. Two other leaf spots, Phyllosticta and Gloeosporium, cause leaf spots on foliage but are not as destructive as Volutella.
Ground covers, such as pachysandra, are sometimes used where grass or other plants will not grow due to low light. Consequently, the environmental stress factors, including prolonged leaf wetness or dry soils, can favor certain infectious diseases in the sites. Symptoms and Diagnosis Volutella blight begins as small, brown to tan spots on the leaves that enlarge to form blotches. These blotches can then spread and coalesce to form a blight where young growing tissue, especially leaves and twigs, are killed. Concentric line patterns form within the brown spots as leaves yellow and fall. Infected stems become brown to black in color and die.
Circular, spreading areas on diseased plants will be noticeable in the planting. The disease will be especially severe when plants are crowded and wet conditions prevail. Life Cycle Many spore masses cause the spread of the disease, which is especially rapid among plants that have been weakened by the attack of scale insects or by winter injury. The sexual stage of this fungus is Pseudonectria pachysandricola. Under moist conditions, salmon- to pink-colored masses of fungal spores form on the surface of dead stems in spring. Initial infections may lead to large patches of plants killed.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Maintain plant vigor. Purchase healthy plants and maintain this condition by watering during drought. Water early in the day so that drying occurs before evening. Avoid splashing of water. Fertilize as needed or as indicated by soil testing. 2. Select planting area carefully. Plants should be planted in a well-draining soil. If the site is persistently wet, amend the soil or raise the bed before planting. 3. Removal. Lift out and destroy severely diseased plants. Bury or remove from the site. Do not place in the compost pile.
4. Use fungicides. It is difficult to thoroughly apply fungicides unless using a forceful sprayer. Fungicides can be applied beginning in spring and at 7 to 14 day intervals through early summer. Once temperatures rise above 90 degrees F, discontinue application. Pesticides registered for use include chlorothalonil (Daconil), copper, mancozeb, maneb, and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336). 5. Mulch. Mulch with leaf mold in the spring to cover up fallen debris containing inoculum. 6. Thinning. Thin plants in fall, during dry weather, to remove dense growth.
7. Pests. Scale is a harmful pest on pachysandra and may make it more susceptible to disease. The female insects are dark brown and shaped like oyster shells. The males are smaller and narrower, pure white, and are very prominent on the leaves and stems. Heavy infestations of scale can be brought under control by applying summer oil spray before the new growth starts in spring. Follow this with several applications of a scale insecticide like malathion or Sevin at 2-week intervals or several applications of a scale insecticide or summer oil every 10 days to 2 weeks starting in mid-May.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Vinca stem canker, Phoma exigua, is a fungal disease that is almost always prevalent during very rainy seasons. This fungal disease of periwinkle or ground myrtle causes shoot tips to become dark brown changing to nearly black as the disease progresses. Stem canker (blight) may be so severe that attempts to maintain vinca plantings fail, and the plants have to be removed and replaced with other non-susceptible ground covers. Damage is most prevalent in cool wet weather in spring and in autumn when soil moisture is high. Newly planted beds, where plantings are thin and not well established, are very susceptible.
Incidence of the disease tapers off during the hot dry weather of summer; however, in prolonged periods of cool wet weather, new infections can occur. Stem canker can also be a severe problem in nurseries where plants are grown under mist propagation. The fungus grows and persists indefinitely in moist soil and plant debris. It is not unusual for new plants to appear healthy when purchased only to become diseased when planted. The causal fungus survives in infested plant debris which is difficult to remove.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Soon after new green shoots appear in spring, vinca stem canker, Phoma exigua, causes shoot tips to become dark brown, wilt, and die back to the soil surface. Some affected stems are nearly black. After several weeks, entire clumps of plants may wither and die. Small, black, dot-like, fruiting bodies develop on the surface of the diseased stem tissue. Life Cycle The sexual stage of this fungus is known as Diaporthe vincae. The spores are produced during very rainy seasons. The fungus grows saprophytically throughout moist soil and commonly colonizes dead and dying plant material. The fungus is believed to overwinter as dormant mycelium and as specksized, brown to black fruiting bodies (pycnidia) on the dead stems and leaves.
The cycle of infection, disease development, symptom expression, and re-infection may be repeated as long as cool, damp conditions prevail and the soil moisture remains high. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Removal of debris. Remove infected plants and prune out diseased parts of the plant in the fall and spring. Discard this material but do not compost. Thin planting in the fall during dry weather to remove dense growth.
2. Purchase disease-free plants. For new beds, select and plant only vigorous, disease-free stock purchased from a reputable nursery. 3. Water. After transplanting, apply only enough water to maintain vigor. Avoid frequent watering if the soil is sufficiently moist for good growth. 4. Fungicides. Under conditions in the spring of extensive and frequent rainfall, fungicides can be applied to diseases beds every 7–10 days. Application should cover all leaves and stems to runoff. Thorough coverage is essential to be effective.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaf scorch may occur on any species of tree or shrub as well as herbaceous plants. It is a widespread noninfectious disease or disorder. Scorch most often occurs following prolonged periods of dry, windy weather or bright sunshine when the roots are unable to supply water to the foliage as rapidly as it is lost by transpiration from the leaves. Unfavorable locations, such as sandy or gravelly soil, near obstructions or pavement that restrict root growth, or exposed windy slopes usually promote scorch. Anything that affects the plant’s ability to take up water, including insect and disease problems, can result in leaf scorch. Herbicides and pesticides may also contribute to scorch. Do not spray on windy days to eliminate drift problems and do not allow mist to settle onto trees.
In mild cases of leaf scorch, the leaves remain attached, and little damage results. In more severe cases, plants may drop many of their leaves prematurely, although such plants do not die. Where leaf scorch occurs each year, such annual stress will gradually weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to insects and diseases. Symptoms and Diagnosis Browning of leaf margins and/or yellowing or darkening of the areas between the main leaf veins are symptoms of leaf scorch. Due to environmental causes, leaves may dry, turn brown, and become brittle. Look for damage to trees and shrubs on the upper portion on the sunny, southern side and on the windy side. Premature dropping of leaves and twig dieback may occur during the late summer. Symptoms usually appear after drying winds in conjunction with periods of hot, dry weather.
Leaf scorch on narrow leaf evergreens appears as brown or purple brown discoloration of the needle tips. If unfavorable conditions become more severe, browning of needles increases. This should not be confused with the browning and shedding of older interior needles. Scorch may result from hot, dry weather in summer or from strong, dry winter winds when the ground is frozen. Symptoms may not become apparent for a month or more after the initial injury. Winter leaf scorch in evergreen plants usually appears as two long, brown areas paralleling the main leaf vein. Life Cycle Although plants can experience scorch with no insects or disease pathogens involved, insect and disease damage can also affect the plant’s uptake of water. In some cases, insect damage such as leafhopper (hopper burn) or specific scorch diseases caused by fungi or bacteria can produce similar symptoms. Scorch can also reduce the health of a plant making it more susceptible to attack by insects and diseases.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1.Water when needed and maintain plant vigor. Plant in a fertile, well-drained soil at the same depth the plants grew in at the nursery and with an adequate supply of organic matter. Soil should be moist to a depth of 10 to 12 inches after a thorough watering. This should be done about once weekly. It is very important for the trees, especially broadleaf and needled evergreens, to be well watered going into the winter period. Water during this period if seasonal rains are not adequate or during the winter when the soil is not frozen. Annuals and perennials require more frequent watering than most trees and shrubs. 2. Fertilize. Fertilize plants in early spring based on a soil test and the directions printed on the fertilizer container. Nitrogen should be applied annually based on the area to be fertilized, the type of plant, and the diameter of the trunk. Do not fertilize with nitrogen in the late fall as it may cause new soft growth easily damaged by cold weather.
3. Mulch. Organic mulches (pine needles, wood chips, composted leaves, pine bark, cypress mulch) can help retain moisture during the summer and fall droughts. In the winter this mulch prevents the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Mulch will also cool the soil in summer. 4. Screens. Screens may be used to protect trees and plants in areas exposed to wind and sun, but it is best not to plant tender plants in these exposures. 5. Exposure. Other factors which can result in scorch are excessive fertilizer, deicing salt, herbicide, dog urine, trash fires, leaking sewer or gas mains, girdling roots or strangling wires, vehicle exhaust, and heat reflected from buildings. Elimination of the exposure to these elements is the only correction.
6. Physical hazards. Avoid root injury when digging near trees and shrubs. Care should be taken to not injure the bark and roots when using lawnmowers, weed whips, and edging tools.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Rust, Puccinia heterospora, is a fungal disease that infects leaves and stems of hollyhock. Lower leaves show the condition first, and the disease progresses upward during the growing season. The extent and severity depend on weather conditions.
Symptoms and Diagnosis First symptoms appear on the leaves as individual, yellow, circular spots about one-eighth inch in size that enlarge to one-quarter inch or more in diameter. On the underside of the leaves, swellings or blisters soon emerge within these spots. At this stage, the symptoms resemble insect or mite galls found on many other plants; however, such galls are rare on hollyhock. The swellings continue to develop and in a few more days, they release masses of reddishbrown spores, covering the entire undersurface of the leaf. You can easily identify the disease in the field by the round pustules that are covered by loosely attached red spores. Leaves that are heavily infected eventually turn gray or tan and die. Rust spots may also occur on the stems and leaf petioles and occasionally on green flower parts.
Life Cycle The reddish spores are easily spread by splashing water, rain, and wind. The fungus overwinters in plant debris and possibly in overwintering, living plant tissue. Symptoms will appear very early the following spring when weather conditions are favorable. Hollyhock rust is not extremely common throughout the state. Fortunately, we can usually enjoy colorful hollyhocks in spite of the disease, though the foliage may become unattractive in wet years.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Use disease-free plants.Start plants from seeds and place them some distance from infected stock. 2. Improve air circulation. Space plants out in a dry sunny location so that moisture is quickly evaporated from the foliage. 3. Keep plants healthy. Maintain the plants in a vigorous growing condition through a good fertility program. Irrigate during dry periods but keep the foliage dry, if possible. 4.Remove infested material. Remove old plant material and bury, burn, or compost it at the end of the flowering season. Picking off the first infected leaves as they appear may also be helpful. However, this practice alone often is not successful in controlling rust.
5. Control weeds. Destroy common mallow weeds in the vicinity as they may be hosts to the rust disease and a source of hollyhock infection. 6. Use fungicides if necessary. Consider using fungicides to supplement cultural control methods. Direct the applications primarily at the lower surface of the leaves and treat at approximately 7 to 10 day intervals. Reapply if rainfall exceeds 1/2 inch during the period. Pesticides registered for use include chlorothalonil (Daconil), sulfur, mancozeb, and maneb. All are protective fungicides and prevent rather than eradicate the fungus. Start using a fungicide prior to the first sign of disease development.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus and is seen as a light gray or whitish powder on the surface of leaves. It occurs following warm days and cool nights often being seen in the fall and spring. The disease is considered more unsightly than harmful. Death of the plant is rare.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Even though each species of powdery mildew attacks only a narrow range of hosts, there are 11,000 species of the powdery mildew fungi, and many ornamentals are hosts. Superficial powdery patches appear on leaf surfaces, young stems, flowers, and even fruit. The powder is composed of mycelium and colorless chains of spores on upright stalks. Later there may be dark "pepper-like" spots among the powder (the spots are spore-producing bodies). As the disease progresses, leaves may be dwarfed, curl, turn yellow, and drop off. Flowers may be deformed. Fruit crops may be reduced, with the fruit misshapen and covered with powdery patches.
Life Cycle Powdery mildew commonly winters over as mycelial mats in dormant buds or on plant stems and fallen leaves. During humid and warm spring weather (with cool nights), infected buds open and spread conidia (spores) to new host tissue. These conidia do not require free moisture in order to germinate as many fungi do. A new generation may be produced every 72 hours, if conditions are right. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Purchase resistant varieties. This is the best strategy for avoiding powdery mildew. 2. Pruning. Prune out diseased tissue and destroy it. Gather and destroy dead leaves and stems in the fall. This is the source of next season’s inoculum.
3. Keep plants in good vigor. Space the plants for good air circulation. Give the plants plenty of sun, as too much shade seems to make the problem worse. Try to avoid overhead watering and do not handle the plant when the foliage is wet as this will spread the disease. Water early in the day. 4. Fungicides. Use fungicides as a preventive treatment before a rain for maximum protection. Spray both sides of leaves and flowers well with sulfur, mancozeb, maneb, chlorothalonil (Daconil), cinnamaldehyde (Cinnamite), or copper-containing fungicides.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Also called red spot or measles, this disease affects all aboveground parts of the peony. Caused by the fungal pathogen, Cladosporium paeoniae, this disease occurs each spring just before bloom. It is mostly found on older varieties and is not immediately lethal, though repeated bouts for several years will affect plant vitality. It does not cause early leaf drop or stem dieback but causes the plant to be unsightly and lose its attractiveness as spots coalesce to form blighted areas.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Small, circular, red or purplish spots first appear superficially on the upper surface of young leaves. Later in the season they coalesce into large, glossy, irregular, dark purple blotches while the underside of the leaves becomes a dull chestnut brown. Short reddish-brown streaks appear on the young stems and petioles, and eventually the whole plant may be affected with purplish or brownish red spots. Life Cycle The late-season blotch phase provides the overwintering inoculum for the next year's infection, especially in older varieties. Fungicides work only to prevent infection; once the disease takes hold, there is no treatment.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Remove debris. Be sure to remove all foliage to ground level each fall and destroy. Infected debris should not be added to the compost pile. 2. Apply fungicides. When the shoots are 2–4 inches high and the weather is cool, overcast, and damp, spray weekly with a fungicide until the flowers open. Reapply following rain or overhead watering. Mancozeb is currently registered for controlling peony blotch.
3. Resistant varieties. Replant with newer resistant varieties that are vigorous and thick-stemmed. 4. Watering and air circulation. Provide good air circulation by proper spacing of plants and foliage thinning to reduce humidity and promote leaf drying. Water early in the day, so that leaves dry thoroughly by night; drip irrigation is best.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
This creeping juniper (Juniperus) died from overwatering Overwatering is one of the more common causes of plant problem. Heavy and poorly drained soils are susceptible to becoming waterlogged. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they cannot absorb the oxygen needed to function normally. The longer the air is cut off, the greater the root damage. The dying roots decay and cannot supply the plants with nutrients and water. Damage caused by over watering is frequently misdiagnosed as pest damage. However, pest damage rarely causes roots to concentrate near the surface of the soil. Plants stressed or injured by waterlogging can become abnormally susceptible to certain fungal pathogens. Phytophthora spp. for example, cause root rot most often in soils that are periodically waterlogged.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Plants growing in soil that is too wet suffer from a lack of oxygen which leads to the death of roots and a loss of vigor in the plant. Stunted slow growth with yellowing leaves is a symptom of over watering. Plants may suffer from leaf scorch or leaf burn. Water soaked spots and blisters (Oedema) may appear on stems and leaves. The crown of the plant may rot. Damaged roots have little defense against the entrance of rot causing soil organisms. And so the plant dies of root rot. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Deep watering encourages roots to go deep down in the soil to where it is moist and a lot cooler. Water less frequently but for longer periods, so water reaches deep into soil. Good thorough watering promotes healthier plants.
2. Investigate using water conserving drip emitters or soaker hoses on a timer. Adjust watering frequency and amounts based on season, temperature and amount of rainfall. Overhead watering uses more water and can promote fungal disease. Also make sure you don't have leaking irrigation pipes or downspouts that are keeping the soil too wet in a location. 3. Add mulch to individual plants or beds. Add organic matter such as compost or rotted manure to plantings ---organic matter can improve drainage in heavy clay soils. Take care to keep mulch away from stems. 4. Use appropriate plants. Evaluate your site for new plantings. Choose plants with the appropriate water and cultural needs that will thrive on your site. Use water loving plants for moist poorly drained soils. Also consider native plants, which generally adapt better, have lower water demands and fewer pest problems.
5. Water only when necessary. Most plants will normally wilt in hot sun and may recover on their own later in the day as the sun moves. Make sure soil is not too wet based on the needs of particular plants before watering; you may end up by over watering. 6. A dry surface is not always a sign of water need. The surface generally dries out first and is not a true indicator of what is going on down deep near the plant root. Make use of a hand trowel or soil probe to check for moisture. Check for overwatering by digging into root zone or knocking a small potted plant out of its container. Soil that has been too long without oxygen usually smells sour or rotten.
7. Give priority to watering newly planted trees and shrubs. Young plants have not had sufficient time to establish deep root systems, and depend on surface water for survival. Do not let the root balls of newly planted trees and shrubs dry out completely or become too saturated. Before watering use a soil probe or a hand trowel. Remember that when plants are fully established, they will require less water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Angular leaf spot is a common bacterial disease of Goldsturm coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii 'Goldsturm') Two common leaf spots affect rudbeckia in the St. Louis area. Both rarely endanger the survival of the plant but both can cause depreciation of the foliage. One is caused by a fungus and the other by a bacterium.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Septoria leaf spot is caused by the fungus Septoria rudbeckiae and causes small 1/8 - 1/4 inch spots on the leaves. Small, black, pinpoint size fruiting bodies (pycnidia) form in the center of the spots. Lower leaves are affected first. The disease then moves up the plant by splashing water. Angular leaf spot of rudbeckia is most common on the cultivar 'Goldsturm'. It begins as small, brown, angular spots on lower leaves, which may appear water-soaked but can quickly expand to affect the whole leaf. It begins at the base of the plant and moves up. Angular leaf spot is caused by a bacterium. The absence of fungal pycnidia and the presence of bacterial streaming under microscopic examination can be used to differentiate angular leaf spot from septoria leaf spot.
Life Cycle Both organisms overwinter in infected debris in the garden. Initial infection occurs in late spring or early summer on the lower leaves and then spread up the plant. Plants are rarely killed, but plants can look unsightly by early fall. Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Clean up old foliage each fall and then live with the disease. Sanitation can go a long way to helping control both diseases. Collect and dispose of old foliage in the fall or by late winter to help prevent early infection.
2. Provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Keeping the leaves dry and help prevent movement of the fungi or bacteria by not watering overhead. If irrigation is necessary, use soaker hoses or at least water early in the day so the foliage can dry before nightfall.
3. Apply chemical protectants. Septoria leaf spot can be controlled with fungicides containing chlorothalonil or copper. Angular leaf spot can be controlled by applying a copper-based fungicide such as Bordeaux mixture as needed started in early spring. Kocide is also effective. Apply at the first signs of disease to protect healthy yet unaffected foliage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaf spots on English ivy are caused by either a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris, or a fungus, Colletotrichum trichellum. Both can cause defoliation, but the fungal leaf spot is more active in causing stem infection.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Bacterial leaf spot first begins as light green, watersoaked spots that enlarge and become brown or brownish black in the center. On mature leaves the margin of the spot may be red. An infection in the leaf petiole causes the petiole to become black. Infection can move into the stem causing tips to turn black and die. The fungal leaf spot produces large tan to brown spots on the leaves. They do not have a red margin. Black specks, fungal fruiting bodies, may be visible in the dead tissue, giving the spots a speckled appearance. The fungus can also infect stems, resulting in tip dieback.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Remove and destroy infected leaves and stems. Regardless of whether the spots were caused by a bacterial or fungal pathogen, removing diseased leaves will slow the spread of the disease. 2. Avoid wetting the foliage. Wetting the foliage, especially in late afternoon or evening, facilitates the development and spread of leaf spot organisms. Water early in the morning so the foliage dries before night.
3. Prune out and destroy all diseased plant parts in the fall. Thin the planting to allow better air movement and promote drying. 4. Live with the disease. The above cultural practices are generally sufficient to keep the disease from becoming a major problem. 5. Use fungicides. Sprays can be effective against both bacterial and fungal leaf spot diseases. They must be applied on a regular schedule and reapplied if rainfall is prevalent. copper fungicides are generally effective in controlling both leaf spots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Dummer. ゛☀
Herbicide damage can be hard to diagnose. A trained individual can generally tell when damage from an herbicide is a possible cause, but validation requires a laboratory test of the plant tissue and/or the soil while the chemical is still present. Such tests can cost between $65 and $150 per sample or more. Individual tests need to be made for each suspected herbicide. Testing may not be available for some herbicides. More commonly, a circumstantial case is made after a thorough examination of the damaged plant(s), surrounding plants, the pattern of damage, the likelihood of damage occurring given the suspected point of herbicide application, and the history of the symptoms.
Symptoms and Diagnosis General symptoms can include one or more of the following symptoms: curling or cupped leaves, stunted growth, discolored leaves, or leaves with dead spots. The same herbicide may cause different symptoms on different plant species. Since herbicides do not leave a "calling card" like mites, insects, and diseases (but the damage they cause can be mistaken for herbicide damage), it is advised to rule these out first. Other disorders that produce symptoms that can resemble herbicide damage include virus diseases, adverse weather, salt damage, drought, soil compaction, misapplied fertilizers, root stress, and nutrient deficiencies. Excluding these as causes requires close examination of the site and attention to patterns. Is the pattern of damaged plants consistent with drifting spray? Is more than just one kind of plant affected? Did the symptoms appear within one or two days (in most cases) of the suspected application of an herbicide? Were any lawn weed control products used in the area, including weed and feed products containing an herbicide? The answer to these and other questions can help make a circumstantial case of herbicide damage.
Recovery Prognosis Recovery of plants damaged by herbicides is dependent upon many factors including amount of initial damage incurred as well as what herbicide caused the damage. Trees and shrubs that receive minor damage from a broadleaf herbicide such as 2,4-D are likely to recover or have only minor damage. Trees and shrubs that have been damaged by dicamba which was applied to a lawn area and then was washed down into the root system of trees and shrubs can show damage for several years as they gradually recover. Plants damaged by soil sterilant herbicides are the least likely to recover.
Plants that show signs of growing out of the problem will likely recover. Plants that appear to lose vigor may not. The survival of damaged plants can be increased by reducing other stresses. Water during dry periods, fertilize according to a soil test report to increase vigor, and watch for and control any insect or disease problems.
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