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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ornamental grasses have become very popular with landscapers because of their ease of care, movement, and the graceful drama they bring to a garden. Porcupine maiden grass provides a prime example of these traits, as well as many more. What is porcupine grass? Read on to learn more.
What is Porcupine Grass? Ornamental grasses come in a wide array of growth habits, tones, and sizes. They are classed by their temperature needs as warm season or cold/hardy grasses. Ornamental porcupine grass is a warm season species which is not hardy in freezing temperatures. It resembles zebra grass but holds its blades more stiffly and doesn’t tend to fall over as much. Porcupine maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’) is a member of the Miscanthus family of graceful arching grasses. It is an ornamental upright grass with golden banding on the blades as if it was always in a dappled pool of light. This unique foliage bears horizontal golden bands, which some say resemble porcupine quills. In late summer, the plant forms a bronze inflorescence that rises above the blades and waves a plumed head in the wind.
Growing Porcupine Grass This maiden grass makes an excellent specimen plant and is spectacular in mass plantings. It can get 6 to 9 feet tall. Try growing porcupine grass as an accent or even a border, for a low maintenance and top performing plant. The plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9 and thrives in full sun where the soil is moderately moist. This grass does best in full sun but can also perform well in partial shade. It is remarkably unfussy about soil and will flourish even in soils which get repeated flooding. The one thing it cannot tolerate is excess salt, so it is not recommended for coastal planting. In massed groups, plant the grass 36 to 60 inches away from each other. It does tend to send out a lot of seed and can become an aggressive, invasive plant. This is likely due to the fact that growers leave the inflorescence on until spring because it adds interest to the winter garden. You can also cut it off and cut back the grass once the blades begin to brown for the season. This will provide you with a “fresh canvas” in which to enjoy the bright spring growth on ornamental porcupine grass.
Porcupine Grass Care This is a fuss free plant, with no major pests or diseases. They do sometimes get rust fungus on the leaves, however, which can mar the beauty but will not harm the vitality of the plant. Best growth is achieved with plenty of water. The plant is not drought tolerant and should not be allowed to dry out. Once the plant is several years old, it is a good idea to dig it up and divide it. This will provide you with another plant and keep the center from dying out. Divide and re-plant in the spring just before new growth begins to show. Some gardeners cut back the foliage in late winter to early spring as part of porcupine grass care. This is not strictly necessary but is aesthetically more pleasing than new green growth poking through old brown growth. Porcupine grass is an excellent addition to the landscape and bestows elegance and year around beauty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ornamental grasses provide movement, sound and architectural interest to the garden. Whether they are planted en masse or single specimens, ornamental grasses add elegance and drama to the landscape with ease of care and self-sufficiency. Maiden grass is an excellent example of a landscape grass. Once established, these plants in the Miscanthus family need relatively little attention; however, they will need division once in a while. Dividing maidenhair grass keeps it to a maintainable size, increases the number of these plants and prevents center die-back. Learn when to divide maiden grass and some tips on how to split apart the larger specimens of this species.
When to Divide Maiden Grass Miscanthus is a large family of grasses. There are many varieties of maiden grass in this group, most of which are excellent landscape plants and valued for their dramatic inflorescence and gaily waving foliage. Splitting ornamental grass plants should happen every 3 to 4 years. Can you divide maiden grass? Maiden grass responds favorably to division and will come back better than ever after a season. The question, “can you divide maiden grass?” has been answered, but now we need to know the when and how of the project. Older Miscanthus can get many feet wide and may grow 5 to 6 feet in height. This is a monster of a plant to divide but it is necessary for best plant health. The best time to divide maiden grass is when it is dormant. Cut back the foliage to 5 inches from the crown first. This will help you get at the base, which needs to be dug up and prevents harm to the root system. Now assemble some tools and a couple of buddies if you are splitting ornamental grass plants that are huge and old.
How to Divide Maiden Grass Neglected old grasses may pose a problem for removal of the root ball. The faint of heart might want to call in a professional crew, while the adventurous might enlist a backhoe or pickup truck. The root ball has to come out for a successful division. Dig several inches around the crown of the plant in order to capture the edges of the root zone, then dig under the root mass and pull it all out. The root ball may be huge, so slide it onto a tarp for ease of movement. Now the division process occurs. Smaller plants can be cut with a root saw, while the big ones may require a chainsaw, pry bar or other robust tools. That is why it is good to know how to divide maiden grass when it is young, or you will end up with quite a large project. Divide the clump into sections of around six inches, retaining roots and crown in each piece. Keep the roots moist and replant each section immediately.
Alternate Method of Dividing Maidenhair Grass Once the clump is out of the ground, you can also divide the small shoots or tillers with water. Rinse off all the dirt and pull out the individual shoots, including their roots. Each one of these is a potential plant, although it will take longer to establish a large clump of Miscanthus than the bulk division method. These small plants should be potted up and babied for a few years in a sheltered area or greenhouse before planting in the garden. This method will result in more plants than you can probably use, but the benefit is that the new plants will not transfer disease or weeds to a new area of the garden since the old soil was washed off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Miscanthus sinensis, or maiden grass, is a family of ornamental plants with a clumping habit and graceful arching stems. This group of grasses has added appeal in late summer with spectacular plumes and in fall with bronze to burgundy colored foliage. Miscanthus maiden grass is easy to care for and hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9. There are numerous maiden grass varieties with different sizes and foliage colors. Bring one of these elegant grasses into your home landscape for powerful dimension, color and movement.
Miscanthus Maiden Grass Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Ornamental maiden grass is excellent used in containers, but more commonly planted in groups or as a border or along the edges of beds. Miscanthus maiden grass has a very regal appeal and provides elegant décor to flank the front entry or along the driveway. Just remember how tall and wide the grass will get and give it enough room to mature.
How to Grow Maiden Grass Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. You can do this every three years or more, but it is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out. This is an indicator that it is time to divide the grass. Rejuvenated plants result from division and they have a tighter clumping habit. If you want to know how to grow maiden grass from seed, get ready for a wait. Sow seeds indoors in a flat with a lid. Keep the soil in the flat lightly moist and place the flat in a warm area at least 60 F. (16 C.). The baby sprouts will grow slowly and you will not have a Miscanthus maiden grass big enough to plant outside for at least a year. Your best bet is to find a buddy with a grass and cut out a piece for yourself.
Maiden Grass Care Maiden grass care couldn’t be simpler. The plants have no known pest or disease problems, except rust. Rust is a fungal disease that is transmitted to leaves when water splashes onto them. Water the plants from under the foliage and when the leaf blades will have time to dry off quickly.
Maiden Grass Varieties ‘Condensatus’ is a variety that can get 8 feet tall and has coarse foliage. ‘Gracillimus’ is a delicately leaved cultivar with a more upright growth habit. For colorful displays, ‘Purpurescens’ is red in summer and purplish red in fall, while ‘Silver Feather’ has shimmering whitish silver inflorescences. There are variegated varieties with horizontal yellow or white stripes, or vertical stripes along the leaf margins. Compact types are usually only 3 to 4 feet tall and suitable for containers. Do a little research on the many maiden grass varieties and choose the right one for your garden location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Drought prone areas and sites with low maintenance needs will benefit from the use of ornamental grass. One of the best series in recent introduction are the Lomandra grasses. The original grasses hail from Australia but have been developed in New Zealand to include numerous cultivars. Wintertime wet feet and dry summer conditions simulate the best Lomandra growing conditions. Best of all, the grasses can be cold hardy into USDA zones 7 to 11. As an excellent visual enhancement to the garden, Lomandra grass can’t be beat in most of our temperate to warm climates.
Lomandra Information Nothing beats the sway and swish of ornamental grasses in the landscape. Not only are they acoustically appealing but their dimension and movement send visitors into a pleasant swoon. One of the nicest grasses for dry to wet landscapes is Lomandra. Its main attraction comes with Lomandra maintenance, which can swing from outright neglect to brutal shearing. More lush growth and a fuller plant will result from average watering and feeding, but the plant has an attractive natural aspect even when left to its own devices. Exactly what is Lomandra grass? Lomandra is a native Australian grass that is also called basket grass or spiny-head mat-rush. Lomandra growing conditions vary from sandy to moist soils in swamps, mountains, creek banks, forests and open hillsides. Lomandra grass has a clumping habit with green, flat blades and a height and spread of about three feet.
Among the more interesting tidbits of Lomandra information is its traditional use by Aborigines to make nets and baskets, and one species was also used as a food. There are nearly 10 Lomandra grass varieties available on the market. Almost any of these would be suitable as ornamental specimens in the warm region garden. As an added bonus, caring for Lomandra grass is effortless and plants have few disease or insect problems.
Lomandra Varieties The largest of the Lomandra is Katie Belles. It grows nicely in bright sun or dappled shade and produces prolific creamy white inflorescences. Lomandra ‘Katrina Deluxe’ has fragrant flowers and a compact habit while ‘Nyalla’ has blue foliage and yellow flowers. A totally different appearance is brought by Lomandra cylindrica ‘Lime Wave,’ which has chartreuse foliage and bright golden blooms. Lomandra ‘Tanika’ is known for its graceful, arching foliage. Dwarf Lomandra produces perfect tufts of green with orange-yellow inflorescences. There are many more varieties available, and this adaptable grass is being developed to extend hardiness.Caring for Lomandra Grass Most of these grasses are suited to full sun or lightly shaded locations. The foliage color may change slightly depending upon the exposure to sunlight, but the health of the plant is not affected. Once established, the grass is tolerant of drought but for thick clumps of glossy foliage, occasional watering is an important part of Lomandra maintenance. f grasses get damaged due to frost, wind or time, simply cut them back to 6 to 8 inches from the ground and the foliage will spring back beautifully.
Almost any area of the garden can provide perfect Lomandra growing conditions. This versatile plant is even comfortable in containers and makes a perfect low border, outline for a pathway or mass planting to replace traditional sod. Lomandra grass is an outstanding landscape performer with a tough nature and elegant, transformative foliage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
For finely textured foliage in the shady to part sun garden or natural wooded area, consider growing lady fern plants (Athyrium filix-femina). Lady fern plants are reliable, native plants and easy to grow in a moist, partially shaded location. When you’ve learned how to grow a lady fern, you’ll want to include them in many shady areas of the landscape. Care of lady ferns is not difficult once the plant is established in the right location.
Lady Ferns in the Garden Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round. Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Wild, native grasses are excellent sources to reclaim land, halt soil erosion, provide fodder and habitat for animals, and enhance the natural landscape. Prairie junegrass (Koeleria macrantha) is a widely distributed North American native. Junegrass in landscapes is primarily used as part of green rooftops and in dry, sandy situations. It has excellent drought tolerance and provides food for livestock, elk, deer and antelope. If you want to attract wildlife, you can’t ask for a better easily managed plant.
What is Junegrass? Prairie junegrass grows natively in most parts of North America. Where does Junegrass grow? It is found from Ontario to British Columbia, south to Delaware, California and Mexico. This hardy, adaptable grass grows in Plains Mountains, meadow foothills and forests. Its primary habitat is open rocky sites. This makes junegrass in landscapes that are challenging a perfect addition. Junegrass is a perennial, cool season, tufting true grass. It can reach ½ to 2 feet in height (15 to 60 cm.) and has narrow flat leaves. The seeds are in dense spikes which are pale green to light purple. The grass is so adaptable it can thrive in its preferred lightly sandy soils but also heavily compacted soil. This grass flowers earlier than most of the other prairie grasses. Flowers appear in June and July in the U.S., and seeds are produced through September. Prairie junegrass reproduces through its prodigious seed or from tillers. The plant is tolerant of a wide variety of conditions but prefers a sunny, open area with moderate rainfall.
Junegrass Information In widespread plantings, junegrass comes back well when managed by grazing. It is one of the earliest native grasses to green up in spring and stays green well into fall. The plant doesn’t spread vegetatively but rather by seed. This means junegrass in landscapes does not pose an invasion problem. In the wild, it combines in communities of Columbian, Letterman Needle and Kentucky bluegrasses. The plant is broadly tolerant of cold, heat and drought but does prefer deep to moderately fine textured soil. Not only does the plant provide forage for wild and domestic animals, but the seeds feed small mammals and bird, and provides cover and nesting material.
Growing Junegrass To sow a stand of junegrass, till the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm.). Seed should be stored in a cold, dry location until ready to use. Germination is most responsive in the cool seasons. Sow seeds on the surface of the soil with just a light dusting of soil to protect the tiny seeds from wind. Alternatively, cover the area with a light cotton sheet until germination. Keep the area evenly moist until the seedlings are established. You can also start plants in pots. Water from the bottom when in containers. Space plants 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) apart once they have hardened off. Junegrass does best in full sun but can also tolerate partial shade.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Japanese silver grass is an ornamental clumping grass in the genus Miscanthus. There are many cultivars of the attractive plant with most suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9. The Japanese silver grass plant usually produces a feathery whitish gray inflorescence that is the source of the name. There are also pink and reddish flowering varieties.
Ornamental Japanese Silver Grass Uses Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is useful as a living hedge or border when planted 3 to 4 feet apart. It also makes an interesting specimen plant alone as the center of a bed or in a large pot as an accent. The ornamental Japanese silver grass group contains numerous cultivars. Autumn Light and November Sunset are two varieties that may be grown in USDA zone 4. Some other interesting varieties are: Adagio Blondo Dixieland Flamingo Kaskade Little Nicky Malepartus Puenktchen Variegatus The latter has foliage striped with a silver white color.
Growing Japanese Silver Grass The plant can get 3 to 6 feet in height and has thick, rather coarse foliage. The blades are long and arcing and stay close in a tight clump. In fall it produces reddish color and the inflorescence persists, creating an attractive seasonal display. Growing Japanese silver grass requires no special soil type but it does need a fertile, moist planting area. Japanese silver grass can become invasive in the southern states. The inflorescence becomes fluffy seeds that spread on the wind when they are ripe. The seeds readily sprout and produce numerous seedlings. To avoid this tendency, it is best to remove the flower before it seeds in warmer zones. This ornamental grass performs best when positioned in full sun. While it needs moist soil, it will tolerate drought periods after it is fully established. The grass should be cut back in spring before new shoots appear. Japanese silver grass plant is a perennial but the leaves will become brown and dry in winter as it assumes a dormant habit. Japanese silver grass care is easy, as the plant has no special requirements and few pests or disease issues.
Propagation of Japanese Silver Grass Plant Ornamental Japanese silver grass will spread to 4 feet in diameter. When the center begins to die out and the plant is no longer looking full and healthy, it is time to divide it. Division takes place in spring. Simply dig up the plant and use a root saw or sharp spade or knife to cut the plant into sections. Each section needs a good clump of roots and foliage. Replant the sections to create new plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden: All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden. ‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades. ‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern? Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart: Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown. Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns. Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems. Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves. For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hosta plants are popular perennials grown for their foliage. Generally, these carefree plants, which thrive in shady locations, suffer from few problems. However, occasional problems with hostas do occur, so knowing what to look for is important in order to treat or prevent further hostas problems.
Common Hosta Pests What causes holes in hosta leaves? This is one of the most common questions associated with hosta plants. Essentially when bugs are eating hostas, slugs or snails are usually to blame. These nighttime foragers are probably considered the most common of hosta pests, eating small holes in the leaves. Silvery-colored slime or snail trail throughout the garden area is a good indication of their presence. Control of these slugs may include the use of beer traps, which they crawl into and die. Another insect pest that chews hosta leaves is the adult black vine weevil. Signs of this insect are irregular notches along the outer edges of leaves. Their larvae also pose a problem by feeding on the crown and roots of hosta plants, resulting in yellow, wilted foliage.
Nematodes, which are microscopic roundworms, typically cause disease by infecting hosta plants much like fungi or bacteria. As with fungal infections, they thrive in moist conditions. Nematodes often feed within the leaves, producing brown areas between the veins, which result in an almost striped appearance. This generally occurs in late summer. Affected plants should be destroyed. You can prevent most nematode attacks by providing adequate spacing between plants, avoiding wet foliage through the use of soaker hoses, and removing and destroying all infected plants. Think just bugs are eating hostas? Think again. Deer and rabbits will oftentimes feast on hosta plants. In fact, deer may leave only stalks where beautiful hosta foliage once was while rabbits usually prefer nibbling on the young shoots.
Common Hosta Diseases Anthracnose is one of the most common diseases affecting hosta plants. This fungal disease thrives in warm, wet weather. The most obvious sign of anthracnose includes large, irregular spots surrounded by a dark border. Once the centers of the spots fall out, the leaves may look torn and can sometimes be mistaken for pest damage. As with nematode prevention, try to keep good distance between plants and avoid overhead watering which results in wet foliage. The use of fungicide spray in spring may be helpful as well. However, look for those that specifically target this disease.
Another fungus that affects hosta plants is Sclerotium blight. This disease first targets the lower leaves but then quickly spreads to the upper ones causing a path of wilted, brown leaves. In addition, there is usually a fluffy, white mass on the petioles. This particular fungus is difficult to control, as it lives in the soil and overwinters beneath mulch. Therefore, it often helps to pull back any mulch from the plant. Crown rot also affects hostas and is often caused by overly wet situations. This disease usually results in yellow foliage, stunted growth, and root rot.
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