绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (6)
动态 (3585)
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorably mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta? Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hosta plants are a perennial favorite among gardeners. Their lush foliage and easy care make them ideal for a low maintenance garden. Originating in the Orient and brought to the Europe in the 1700s, today there are over 2,500 cultivars with such variety in leaf shape, size and texture, that an entire garden could be devoted to growing hostas alone. While hosta care is considered easy, it helps to know a little bit about how to grow hostas to help the plants reach their full garden potential.
Where and How to Grow Hostas Although hosta plants are touted as shade lovers, their sunlight requirements vary widely. Successfully growing hostas in the shade depends on color. Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a color so deep it’s called blue to a light chartreuse to a soft creamy white. A good rule of thumb for the placement and care of hostas is the lighter the foliage, the brighter the sun. The deeper darker foliage retains it color best in moderate shade. The variegated varieties need more sunlight to keep their white and gold stripes. All hostas need some shade and few, if any, will do well in strong direct sunlight. They will fully mature in four to eight years.
For the best care of hostas, plant them in rich organic soil with a slightly acidic pH. You’ll only have to do it once. Dig the planting hole about a foot deep, and wide enough to accommodate the spread of a full sized plant. This will make it easier for the roots to establish a foothold and begin their horizontal spread. In spite of their almost tropical look, hostas are rugged and once established, they tolerate almost any soil and will grow for years. When discussing how to grow hostas, drainage is most important. Dormant season crown rot is one of the few diseases that attack these plants. Good hosta care requires good drainage. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, not wet. Once established, hosta plants aren’t fussy and are very tolerant of summer drought.
Tips for Hosta Care Once your plant is established, hosta care becomes a matter of simple maintenance. To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free. Deer find the tasty and if deer are a problem in your neighborhood, you might try planting daffodils around your hosta to keep them away from the emerging shoots. Another difficulty in hosta care is slugs, which leave unsightly holes in the leaves. A light scattering of sand around your plants will help keep them away.
Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and fit well in a variety of spaces, ranging from a few inches to four feet across. Care of hostas is easy and now you’ve discovered the basics of how to grow hostas, you’ll find them a welcome addition to your yard.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
I love ferns and we have our share of them in the Pacific Northwest. I’m not the only admirer of ferns and, in fact, many people collect them. One little beauty begging to be added to a fern collection is called the heart fern plant. Growing heart ferns as houseplants may take a little TLC, but is well worth the effort.
Information About the Heart Fern Plant The scientific name for the heart leaf fern is Hemionitis arifolia and is commonly referred to by a number of names, including tongue fern. First identified in 1859, heart leaf ferns are native to Southeast Asia. It is a delicate dwarf fern, which is also an epiphyte, meaning it grows upon trees as well. It makes not only an attractive specimen to add to the fern collection, but is being studied for purported beneficial effects in the treatment of diabetes. The jury is still out, but early Asian cultures utilized heart leaf to treat the disease. This fern presents itself with dark green heart-shaped fronds, about 2-3 inches long and borne on black stems, and reaches a height of between 6-8 inches tall. Leaves are dimorphic, meaning some are sterile and some are fertile. The sterile fronds are heart shaped upon a 2- to 4-inch thick stalk, while the fertile fronds are shaped like an arrowhead on a thicker stalk. The fronds are not the stereotypical fern leaves. Heart fern’s foliage is thick, leathery and slightly waxy. Like other ferns, it does not flower but reproduces from spores in the spring.
Heart Fern Care Because this fern is native to regions of warm temperatures and high humidity, the challenge for the gardener growing heart ferns as houseplants is in maintaining those conditions: low light, high humidity and warm temperatures. If you reside in an area with climactic outdoor conditions that mimic those above, then heart fern may do well in an area outdoors, but for the rest of us, this little fern should grow in a terrarium or a shaded place in an atrium or greenhouse. Keep the temperature between 60-85 degrees F. (15-29 C.) with lower temps at night and high ones during the day. Increase the humidity level by keeping a gravel filled drainage tray beneath the fern. Heart fern care also tells us that this evergreen perennial needs well-draining soil that is fertile, moist and humus rich. A mix of clean aquarium charcoal, one part sand, two parts humus and two parts garden soil (with a bit of fir bark for both drainage and moisture) is recommended. Ferns don’t need a lot of extra fertilizer, so only feed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted in half.
The heart fern houseplant needs bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the plant moist, but not wet, as it is prone to rot. Ideally, you should use soft water or let hard tap water sit overnight to dissipate the harsh chemicals and then use the next day. Heart fern is also prone to scale, mealybugs and aphids. It is best to remove these by hand rather than relying on a pesticide, though neem oil is an effective and organic option. All in all, heart fern is a fairly low maintenance and thoroughly delightful addition to a fern collection or for anyone that wants a unique houseplant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
The hart’s tongue fern plant (Asplenium scolopendrium) is a rarity even in its native ranges. The fern is a perennial that was once prolific in cool North American ranges and high hill lands. Its gradual disappearance is probably due to human intervention and expansion, which has removed or destroyed much of its natural growing zones. It has a limited distribution today, but some nurseries specialize in hart’s fern cultivation and these plants are part of an important reintroduction to the environment. You will have to be very lucky to find one of these plants for home cultivation. Whatever you do, don’t remove a wild plant! Growing a hart’s tongue fern in the landscape is an attractive notion, but harvesting the native plants will only further deplete their territory and help eradicate them from native environs.
Recognizing Hart’s Tongue Fern Plants This fern is remarkably attractive with long glossy untoothed evergreen fronds. Leaves are 20 to 40 centimeters in length and strap-like with an almost tropical appearance. The plants can be found in Michigan and parts of New York on north- or east-facing slopes with plenty of rock cover, and at the edges of mossy tree zones. They are often accompanied in the environment by bryophytes, other ferns, mosses and sugar maple trees. The leaves stay evergreen all year and plants can develop up to 100 leaves per root zone, although 10 to 40 is more common.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Cultivation The fern grows in shaded, cool areas with protection from environmental influences. Primarily found in northern forests, the plant requires moisture and is often found clinging to cracks in white limestone and other rocky regions. It is epipetric and needs just a few inches of rich humus in which to grow. Hart’s tongue fern plants grow from spores that start out asexual in the first year and give rise to the next generation, which has sex organs and is called a gametophyte. The plants are slow growing and the process is difficult to mimic in culture. Mature plants will produce swollen bases which can be removed and held in a bag of moist peat until they form rootlets.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Care Due to the plant’s sensitivity to environmental influences, organic methods are necessary to take care of hart’s tongue ferns. Plant the fern in rich soil in a partially sunny to full shade location. A sheltered location is best, but you can also situate the fern in a rockery where it will feel right at home. Enrich the soil before planting with compost, leaf litter or other organic amendment. Slightly acidic soil is the best medium for hart’s tongue fern care. Water the plant during the first season regularly and thereafter when temperatures are unusually dry. Exposure to pesticides, insecticides and fungicides must not occur when you take care of hart’s tongue ferns due to their intolerance of non-organic chemicals.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’re looking to make a statement in your yard and have some low-lying ground to plant, the Gunnera is a great choice for visual impact. Let’s learn more about how to grow Gunnera plants.
Gunnera Plant Information Sometimes called Dinosaur Food (Gunnera manicata), the Gunnera’s deeply-lobed leaves can get up to 4 feet across and the plant can stand up to 8 feet tall. Gunnera tinctoria, also known as prickly rhubarb, is similar and just as big. Both of these prehistoric-looking greenery plants will fill in large empty spaces in the corners and edges of your yard, and will thrive in boggy ground where other plants’ roots might drown.
Growing and Caring for Gunnera The most difficult part about caring for Gunnera is its moisture requirements. If you have a piece of ground that is constantly saturated from deck run-off or some low ground at the bottom of a hill, you’ve found the ideal place for growing Gunnera plants. Gunnera loves moist and boggy ground and must be kept well-watered at all times. Set a sprinkler next to the plant and let it go for an hour or so, as the leaves love moisture as much as the roots do. Choose your planting spot in low ground that gets full sunlight for at least most of the day. Dig in lots of compost and other organic material when preparing the ground for planting. Give the plant a heavy feeding when you first plant it to give it a good start.
It takes a lot of energy to create this much growth, and this makes Gunnera a heavy feeder. In addition to the fertilizer you dig in with the first planting, feed them twice more during the season with a good, all purpose fertilizer. Side dress the plants and water the fertilizer into the soil next to the crown. Many perennial plants can be propagated by dividing, but the Gunnera is so large that this method is hard to use. The best way to increase your Gunnera plot is by cutting out a portion of the crown much like you’d remove a wedge of pie. Do this in April or May before the main growth has begun. Plant this new juvenile plant at least 10 feet away to give both plants room to grow.
Gunnera may be tough, but it can be damaged by winter frost. Cut the leaves down around November and pile them on top of the center crown left in the ground. This will insulate the more tender parts of the plant from the cold. Remove the dead leaves early in the spring to allow new growth to spring up.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gunnera manicata is one of the most astounding plants you will ever see. The larger specimens of these ornamental giants can be quite expensive but don’t worry, collecting gunnera seeds and growing plants from them is easy. There are just a few crucial items to know about gunnera seed propagation to ensure success. Read this little article for some tips on how to propagate gunnera from seed and grow your own giant rhubarb.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Fountain grasses are a reliable and pretty addition to the home landscape, adding drama and height, but their nature is to die back to the ground, which causes confusion for many gardeners. When do you prune fountain grass? In the fall, winter or in the spring? And what steps are involved in cutting back fountain grass? Continue reading to learn more about fountain grass pruning.
When to Cut Back Fountain Grass The best time when to trim fountain grass back is in the late winter or early spring. The exact timing is not as important as just making sure that you prune fountain grass back before it starts actively growing. You want to avoid doing fountain grass pruning in the fall, as the plant has not yet died back all the way. If you try to cut back fountain grass in the fall, you may cause it to go into a growth spurt, which will make it more vulnerable to the coming cold weather and will reduce its chances of surviving the winter.
Steps for Cutting Back Fountain Grass The first step when you trim fountain grass back is to tie up the dead stems. This is just to make the chore of cutting back fountain grass a little easier because you won’t have to clean up all the fallen stems. Next step in fountain grass pruning is to use a cutting tool, such as pruning shears or hedge clippers, to cut back the stem bundle. Prune fountain grass about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. The remaining stems will be quickly hidden under the new growth.
That’s all there is to it. The steps to trim fountain grass are easy and quick and taking the time to cut back fountain grass will result in a nicer looking “fountain” in the summer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
The sway of gently arching foliage and swish that follows as they rustle in the wind are treats for the eye and the provision of the elegant fountain grass. There are many varieties of Pennisetum, with a wide range of sizes and foliage color. Near the end of the season, you may find your fountain grass turning white, bleached and unappealing. What is happening? Are there some sort of terrible fountain grass problems? Rest your mind, the plant is doing quite fine. The bleaching is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle.
White Fountain Grass Foliage Fountain grasses are perennial plants that form dense clumps of airy foliage. The grasses are a warm season plant, which means that they go dormant in winter. Fountain grass problems are few and the plants are tolerant when established. They are hardy, low maintenance plants for the savvy gardener. White fountain grass, or Pennisetum setaceum ‘Alba,’ is an attractive form with slender green foliage and delicate nodding white inflorescences. Contrary to the name, it should not have white or even silvery leaves, but the name instead refers to the flower hue.
White fountain grass foliage arises near the end of the season when cold temperatures begin to arrive. The change in color signals the arrival of the plant’s dormancy. Usually, the blades start to yellow and fade, and eventually the tips turn white and brittle. A fountain grass turning white is the plant’s response to the cool temperatures as it readies itself to slumber until warm season temperatures return. Any of the other varieties of fountain grass will experience the same bleaching and die back for winter.
Fountain Grass is Bleaching Out Fountain grasses thrive in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9. In hotter climates, it may get burned by harsh sun rays and lose color on the tips of the leaf blades. In colder climates, the plant is an annual and will begin dying back in cold weather. If you wish to preserve your plant in northern climes, pot it up and move it indoors for the winter. Plants that are grown in hot climates benefit from protection from midday sun. The foliage will perform best in light shade. If fountain grass is bleaching out in any other condition, it is likely just a seasonal display and should be enjoyed. Should the color bother you, however, it is okay to cut the foliage back to several inches above the ground in late fall and wait for the new blades to come in when spring arrives.
Fountain Grass Problems Fountain grass is relatively resistant to pests and disease. Some plants may develop foliar problems with rust fungus, and slugs and snails may occasionally take bites out of the foliage but overall it is a hardy, rugged plant with few issues. The seed heads produce prolifically, which can become a problem in some climates where they readily propagate and spread. Cutting off the inflorescences before they produce seed should reduce the issue. Fountain grass is a reliable plant with graceful appeal and several seasons of interest, so don’t worry about the faded foliage and focus on the next spectacular season.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ornamental grasses are unique in the landscape for their versatility, ease of care and hypnotic movement. Fountain grasses are one of the more appealing of the group, with elegant plumed inflorescences and arching foliage. These splendid plants are low maintenance, which adds to their appeal. Fountain grass feeding is a rare chore because ornamental grasses like these thrive in low fertility areas. However, let the appearance of the plant be your cue and fertilize only when color and leaf health are indicative of nutritional scarcity.
Fountain Grass Feeding Most ornamental grasses do not need to be fertilized. Container plants need occasional feeding because they are in a closed environment, but in-ground plants usually do better without extra nitrogen, which can make leaves floppy and cause excess growth and limp plants. If you feel you need to fertilize your plants, you need to learn how to fertilize ornamental fountain grass and, more importantly, what to feed ornamental grasses. Ornamental fountain grass can thrive for years in poor soil without any feeding. These grasses are different from turf grass, which has heavy nutrient and water needs. Fountain grass is a tough, hardy plant that can grow too much foliage at the expense of the lovely plumes if fed too much. Excess food can also cause an unstable plant with limp blades. In the first year, fountain grass can benefit from some organic fertilizer applied at planting time. Alternatively, the best fertilizer for fountain grass is a time release fertilizer that will last through summer and help the plant build a vigorous root system and initial form.
How to Fertilize Ornamental Fountain Grass If you feel you must fertilize your grass, choose the best fertilizer for fountain grass. Organic fertilizers are gentle and easy for plant roots to uptake, as well as healthy for the entire garden. When choosing what to feed ornamental grasses, try organic soil amendments such as compost, leaf mold, mushroom manure and other easily broken down organic substances. You may also choose to use a basic 10-10-10 balanced food. Just be sure the first number isn’t higher than 10, as that would add excess nitrogen and weaken the stems and blades of the grass. Once you choose the type of fertilizer you are going to use, you need to know how much to apply. The optimum time for fertilizing fountain grass is in early spring before new growth has begun.
Amounts to Use When Fertilizing Fountain Grass A balanced fertilizer should be applied at a rate of ½ pound per 1,000 square feet. This is a very small amount, just enough to boost root health and flowering, but not enough to affect the foliage. Organic materials can be added as top dressing around the root zone. They will gradually compost in and feed the roots. Time release fertilizers should be applied half strength from the manufacturer’s recommendation. This will still be plenty of extra nutrients for your grass.
After any application of fertilizer, always water the plant and root area thoroughly. It is not necessary to fertilize the plant every year. Once every 2 or 3 years is sufficient for these low feeders. Container plants can be fertilized once annually in spring but carefully leach soil after application. If you are in doubt about how much and how to fertilize your plant, simply leave it alone. Fountain grasses are resilient, hardy specimens who will actually thrive without extra nutrients.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Fountain grass (Pennisetum) is a mound-forming ornamental grass and a garden favorite, as the care of fountain grass is easy. The cascading leaves on this plant have a fountain-like appearance. Clump-forming grasses grow in mounds or clumps, making them ideal for many areas without becoming invasive. It can be used alone as a specimen plant or in a border alongside other perennials. Fountain grass is an attractive perennial grass densely clumped growth. Blooming of its foxtail-looking flowers generally takes place from late summer through the fall. The small flowers of fountain grass are tan, pink or purple. During fall and throughout winter, this plant will also reward gardeners with spectacular foliage displays.
Types of Fountain Grass There are different types of fountain grass to choose, ranging in size from 12 inches to 3 feet. One of the most common varieties is dwarf fountain grass Hameln (P. alopecuroides ‘Hameln’). Its light tan blooms turn pinkish brown in fall. This fountain grass blooms earlier than the others, making it a great choice for gardens with shorter growing seasons. Purple fountain grass (P. setaceum) has both purple foliage and blooms. Used for its reddish foliage and showy flowers is red fountain grass (P. setaceum ‘Rubrum’), which grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. Other types of fountain grass cultivars include ‘Cassian,’ ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Little Honey’, and ‘Moudry’.
Growing Fountain Grass Growing fountain grass is easy. As with most ornamental grasses, fountain grass is extremely adaptable. Care of fountain grass is easy as well. It’s sometimes helpful to cut back the foliage in the spring prior to growth. Although not specifically a requirement for fountain grass, fertilizer can be applied as growth resumes in the spring. Established plants do not need regular watering, except during periods of drought. Fountain grass does well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater results, fountain grass should be planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Fountain grass enjoys full sun but tolerates some light shade. Look for areas receiving full sun, as these plants prefer warm conditions. Warm-season grasses thrive in warmer temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 F. (24-29 C.).
Transplanting Fountain Grass Transplanting fountain grass is not always necessary; however, it can be dug up and divided in areas where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are simply desired. Division usually depends on spacing or visual appearance. For instance, plants suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their appearance. Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the growing season in the late summer or fall. Taking care of fountain grass is a rewarding undertaking for a gardener. By growing fountain grass, you add a low maintenance option to your garden.
0
0
文章
158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173
相关用户
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： Faye
朝阳
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 小松树快乐
长沙
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 水中月
赣州市
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 艺源
广安市
芦荟
芦荟
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 阿罗
南昌
芦荟
芦荟
来自： Bailu_Yuan
北京
白掌
白掌
来自： 韩凯
武汉
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 阿罗
南昌
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容