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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hydrilla is an invasive aquatic weed. It was introduced to the United States as an aquarium plant but escaped cultivation and is now a serious weed. Controlling hydrilla weeds is necessary to prevent diminishment of native flora. In most states, it is illegal to possess or transport the species. The plant grows rapidly, spreads easily and out competes native vegetation. It also fouls waterways with its thick tangled mats of stems. The plant is a federally listed noxious weed. Read on to learn more.
What is Hydrilla? Hydrilla management is the responsibility of pond and lake denizens. What is hydrilla? The plant is often confused with our native Elodea, but it has one or more teeth on the underside of the midrib. This gives the plant a rough feel when you drag your hand down the length of the stem. The plant is native to Africa, Australia and parts of Asia but has managed to take over many areas of our native flora here in the U.S. The plant is of greatest concern in the southern states but has managed to migrate in small populations to the western regions. It has also been discovered in some northern and Midwest regions. Identification is the first step to eradication. Hydrilla is a perennial plant with dense mats of stems that grow in water over 20 feet in depth. Stems are snaky and numerous, floating in a tangle on the surface of the water. Leaves are narrow with some serration, 1/8 to 3/8 inch long and have spines on the underside of the midrib.
This plant reproduces by seed which is carried on the water but also by fragmentation. Any tiny bit of the plant that is broken off has the capacity to become another plant. In areas with aquatic recreation, plants are consistently torn up to perpetuate the problem. One positive note of hydrilla plant information is its contribution as habitat for fish and animals. Initially, the plant has beneficial effects on fishing areas but, over time, the low oxygen levels in the mats do not support the growth of local animals.
How to Kill Hydrilla Aquatic and wildlife managers have discovered how difficult hydrilla management can be. This is because of its ease of spread and reproduction. Controlling hydrilla weeds is an issue of concern in most of the United States and has become an economic problem in some regions. As early as the 1980s, $49 million was spent on hydrilla management. The numbers have since increased until infestations have become a budgetary burden in those localities with the highest populations of the plant. It is now known that cold tolerance is another aspect of hydrilla plant information, a detail that makes management even more challenging.
Methods of Controlling Hydrilla Weeds Dredging and hand pulling or trawling are not effective strategies. This is because of the ease with which the plant establishes itself from small fragments. Stem fragments with only one node can form roots and shoots in just a couple of days. Physical control such as lowering water levels, adding aquatic dye or covering the surface of the water to reduce light have minimal effect. Drained ponds may respond to granular herbicides applied to the mud to eliminate tubers. Grass carp have been introduced in some areas and are efficient at eating and removing some of the plants.
Chemical control is the most effective but cannot be used where there is drinking water. Copper, when mixed with other herbicides, is a useful tool but care must be used around fish. Other chemicals include diquat, endothall, fluridone and dichlobenil. Each of these has extensive hazards and should be applied by a professional or by use of approved formulas recommended for aquatic management. Apply all cautions and respect the instructions regarding application methods and rates completely.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pass by any lake, pond, river or marsh that has been left to Mother Nature’s attention and you’ll find cattails (Typha latifolia). Ask anyone responsible for maintaining these same areas as part of an artificial landscape (like a garden) and opinions on those cattail plants or cattail control will be either “Aren’t they wonderful!” or “#@*&! weeds!” Unfortunately, both opinions have valid reasoning. When it comes to landscaping a natural pond (any natural body of water within your landscape), be careful. Cattails for the pond can be both a headache and a delight, but learning how to control cattails can tip the scales dramatically in their favor.
The Good Side of Cattail Plants From a naturalist’s point of view, cattail plants are a wonder of nature where every part of the plant can be used to benefit a variety of species, including humans. These perennials are tall sturdy plants that can grow to almost 10 feet tall (2 meters). They have heavy, rhizomatous roots; long, flat leaves and long, cylindrical brown flower spikes that can add height and texture to the aquatic garden and will grow anywhere that supplies a constant source of water. Underwater, they provide a safe haven for tiny fish and attract many of the smaller aquatic creatures that birds and other wildlife feed on. They create a shelter from winter cold and wind for mammals and birds and a source of nesting material with their leaves and seeds. If you want to attract a wide variety of wildlife into your landscape, consider cattails for the pond. Humans have always benefited from the lowly cattail. Plants have been used for rush bottom furniture, baskets and mats. The downy seeds have been used to stuff pillows and mattresses and during World War II were used to stuff life jackets.
Native Americans were experts in using every part of the plant, not only for stuffing or the waterproof qualities of the leaf, but as a reliable food source. All parts of the cattail plant, from the roots to the flower heads are edible. The rootstock can be boiled or roasted, or dried and ground into a powdery flour. The center of the stalks is thick and starchy and the flower heads can be roasted for a nutty tasting treat. Cattail plants have industrial uses as well. Plant parts can be distilled into ethyl alcohol for antifreeze or an inexpensive solvent and the stems produce a sizing for shaving cream. What a versatile plant! And yet…
Tips on How to Control Cattails Cattails for the pond come with a set of problems you may not want to deal with. Learning how to control cattails is a must, as these hardy plants can take over a pond in a matter of a few years. The reason for this lies in the reproductive capabilities of the cattail. Plants produce those wonderful, velvety ‘tails’. These are the flower heads and each head produces around 300,000 seeds, each equipped with its own little parachute to be borne on the wind. On a calm day, these little fluffs will fall straight to the ground around the parent plant and germinate quickly. Plucking those seed heads before they ripen won’t help, however. Those rhizomatous roots produce their own sets of offspring, eventually forming dense mats. Cattail control, therefore, is essential to the health and well-being of your pond and landscape. The good news is there are several methods available to the home gardener for how to control cattails, so hopefully one of them will appeal to you.
The first method of cattail control involves the application of herbicides. There are two chemicals, diquat and glyphosate, that are both effective and approved for aquatic use. Diquat is a contact herbicide. It will kill the green part of the plant, but not the root. It’s easy to use, but you’ll have to use it every year. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide and will kill the root, although it may take several weeks to do the job. Your gardening or pond supply source should be able to help you find the brand names that contain these chemicals. The next methods of how two control cattails are considered mechanical. Choice one is to dig them up! This isn’t as easy as it sounds. Those cattail plants have massive root systems. For larger areas of overgrowth, a back-hoe may be needed. Another alternative is the drowning method, which can only be used if the plants’ bases are completely submerged underwater. All you have to do is cut the plants off two or three inches below the water surface. This deprives the plant of the air it needs and it will drown.
Growing Cattails in a Pot Growing cattails in a pot is another method to consider when deciding on how to control your cattails. This is particularly suitable for the small natural pond or an artificial (plastic or rubber-lined) one. Growing cattails in pots eliminates root spread, keeping your plants in a confined space. Clay pots are ideal for this. They have the weight to keep them upright when submerged and can be partially buried in a boggy area. Their downside is their susceptibility to cracking under freezing conditions. Growing cattails in pots will not, however, totally eliminate propagation. Don’t forget those fluffy little seeds! You’ll still need to be vigilant in your cattail control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cattails are familiar majestic plants seen en masse in roadside ditches, flooded areas and marginal sites. The plants are a high nutrient food source for birds and animals, and provide nesting material for water birds. The sword-like leaves and characteristic inflorescence are unmistakable and present an architectural profile that is familiar to most people. Several species are native to North America, which gardeners may grow in their home ponds, water features or water gardens. Container cattail care is easy in most zones and produces a memorable display for almost the entire year.
Information About Potted Cattails Cattails will spread rapidly in the correct situation, which is why you see them spread out in a sea of leaves and cone-like catkins. Growing cattails in pots will prevent them from invading other areas of the pond or garden. Potted cattails keep the rampant rhizomes from extending to unwanted areas. Since native varieties can get up to 6 feet in height, dwarf varieties are available which work better in container water gardens. Container grown cattail plants are available online or at pond and water garden supply centers. They come as rhizome starts or already sprouted in permeable baskets.
How to Grow Cattail in Containers This bog plant is suitable for USDA zones 3 to 9 and can be brought indoors in containers to overwinter if necessary. The plants perform best in full sun to partial shade in soggy soil or up to 12 inches of water. The cattail starts you can purchase may be bare root, in water garden baskets or sprouted in shallow pots. Shipped plants take a while to take off and may take a season or two before you see the summer catkins that are such a recognizable aspect of these water plants. Start growing cattails in pots in spring when ambient temperatures have warmed to 60 F. (15 C.), or sit them in water indoors to get the rhizomes to sprout then move them outdoors.
Container Cattail Care Cattails grow rapidly and will start to sprout as soon as they are installed and conditions warm outside. Plant them in 1-gallon containers, which are stout and not readily breakable. They have to contain the rhizomes as they develop and grow. Submerge the pot in water up to the rim or alternately, use a webbed water garden basket which holds the rhizomes suspended inside. Container grown cattail plants need little care once they establish. In colder climates, the foliage dies back so you should cut the dead leaves away to make room for new growth in spring. The catkins disperse fuzzy white seeds in fall. If you wish to prevent spread of the plant by this method, cut off the catkins as they loosen and begin to dry and form seed. Fertilize in early spring with a balanced liquid fertilizer or water plant food. Once every three years, remove the rhizomes and cut the plant into sections. You can replant the sections for new plants and share them with other water garden lovers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Did you know wild cattails were edible? Yes, those distinctive plants growing alongside the water’s edge can easily be harvested, providing a source of vitamins and starch to your diet all year round. This common grass is very easily identified in nature and its benefits as a food and more are numerous to everyone from a day hiker to a wilderness survivor. Read on to learn more about what cattails are used for.
How to Harvest Cattails Virtually all parts of the cattail plant are edible at some point of the year. Cattail harvesting can be as simple as picking one right off the plant in summer. The lower part of the stem is white and, when eaten raw, tastes like cucumber. If you cook it, it tastes like corn. The pollen can be removed from the stalk simply by shaking into a paper bag and using it as a thickener to soups and stews. In late summer, the green flower heads can be eaten like corn on the cob. In autumn, the roots can be harvested by soaking in water until a gel forms. You can use the gel in bread making and soups.
What are Cattails Used for? In addition to harvesting cattails for food, they have many other uses. Basically, cattail harvesting can provide water, food, shelter and fuel for fire, almost everything needed to survive in the wild. The brown, tight heads can be used as a torch when dipped in oil or fat. The gel found within the leaves can be used medicinally as a topical anesthetic. The heads provide puffy wool-like material that can be used for insulation of clothing, mattresses and padding when sleeping out in the woods.
The leaves, when cut, dried and resoaked, can be used for mats, baskets, hats or ponchos. Next time you pass some of those wild cattails blowing in the wind, remember all of the things cattails are used for and how easy harvesting wild cattails can be.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Have you ever looked at a stand of cattails and wondered is the cattail plant edible? Using edible parts of a cattail in the kitchen is nothing new, except maybe the kitchen part. Native Americans routinely harvested the cattail plant for use as tinder, diaper material, and, yes, food. Cattail starch has even been found on Paleolithic grinding stones dating back tens of thousands of years. So what parts of cattail are edible and how do you use cattails in the kitchen?
What Parts of Cattail are Edible? Cattails are incredibly unique looking plants and, in fact, are actually grasses. There are dozens of species found growing in the Northern Hemisphere and Australia with the largest and most common being Typha latifolia. They can be found in some marshy areas in such proliferation it’s no wonder that ancient man discovered that the cattail plant is edible. Many parts of these tall, reedy plants can be ingested. Each cattail has both male and female flowers on the same stalk. The male flower is at the top and the female is below. Once the male has released all of its pollen, it dries up and drops to the ground, leaving the female flower atop the stalk. The female flower looks much like a fuzzy hotdog on a stick and is commonly seen in dried flower arrangements, but that isn’t all it’s useful for.
Before the male pollinates the female in the spring, the pollen can be collected and used in combination with traditional flower to make pancakes or muffins. The cattail pollen is a great source of protein. The female flower is green prior to pollination and at this juncture can be harvested, cooked and eaten with butter, sort of a marsh corn on the cob. The green flowers can also be used in soups or frittatas or even made into cattail flower refrigerator pickles. Additional Edible Parts of Cattail Plants Young cattail shoots and roots are also edible parts of cattail plants. The young shoots are found once the outer leaves are stripped and can then be used stir fried or sautéed. They are referred to as Cossack asparagus, although the tender, white shoots taste more like cucumbers. The tough, fibrous roots can also be harvested. They are then dried and ground into flour or boiled down with water to separate the starch. The starch is then used much like corn starch to thicken gravies and sauces. Care should be taken when using the edible root parts of a cattail, however. They act as a filtration system for the plant and if in polluted water, will absorb those pollutants which could then be passed along to you as you ingest them.
All in all, cattails may be the perfect survival food. They are also easy to harvest and a supply can be laid aside for later use as well as for medicinal purposes, clothing and shelter – altogether a truly remarkable plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
It’s a common tale, you planted a few cattails in the shallow edges of your backyard pond and now you have a dense stand of cattails blocking your view and access to your shrinking pond. Cattails spread vigorously through underground rhizomes and seeds that seem to germinate as soon as they land in the water. They can also choke out other pond plants with their aggressive rhizomes and tall height that shades out smaller plants. On the plus side, cattails are one of the best natural filters for ponds, lakes, streams, etc. As they filter waterways, they take up valuable nutrients that can be used as soil amendments and mulch. Continue reading to learn about mulching with cattails.
Uses for Cattail Plants Many species of cattails are native to the U.S. However, a lot of the more aggressive species we see in waterways now are introduced species or species that came into existence by natives and introduced species cross pollinating. For centuries, Native Americans used cattails for food, medicine and as a fiber for various items like shoes, clothing and bedding. Leftover remnants of the plant were then worked back into the earth. Presently, cattails are being researched for use as ethanol and methane fuels.
Cattail Mulch in Landscapes Cattails as mulch or compost provide carbon, phosphorus and nitrogen to the garden. Cattails grow and reproduce quickly, making them a valuable renewable resource. As natural pond filters, they absorb fish and amphibian waste, which also benefit garden soil. Another benefit is that cattail seeds will not germinate in the garden, like many plants used as mulches can unfortunately do. The main drawback to making mulch from pond plants is that it can be rather unpleasant smelling to work with. Also, cattails are considered protected species in some areas and invasive species in other locations, so know your local laws before removing or planting wild plants. Cattails have a history of being used as a durable fiber. What this means when considering mulching with cattails is that it does not break down quickly or easily. If you are planning on using cattails as mulch or in the compost pile, you will need to chop it up with a mulcher or mower. Mix in wood chips and/or yarrow plants to speed up decomposition.
Cattails growing in ponds will probably need some manual control once a year. The best time to do this is midsummer when the plants have had time to store up valuable nutrients but are not yet spending them on seed production – if you are planning to use them as mulch or compost. Cattails can be pulled out by hand or cut below water level to control and utilize them. If you have a large pond or plans to mulch/compost cattails on a grand level, they can be dredged out with heavy equipment. Again, be aware of local laws regarding cattails before doing anything with them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Submerged water plants that work in the warm liquid of a fish tank are few and far between. Some of the tropical fern species, such as Bolbitis water fern and Java fern, are commonly used as greenery in tank situations. African water fern grows from a rhizome which can easily be attached to a rock or other surface. They are easy to manage in soft water with either fertilizer or no fertilizer. Below you will find some African water fern info so you can use this lovely plant to aquascape your tanks.
What is an African Water Fern? Fish keepers will know the Bolbitis water fern, or African fern (Bolbitis heudelotii). It is a tropical shade epiphyte found around bodies of water and boggy regions. The fern is a robust specimen and useful as a natural plant in fish tanks. It will grow on a rock or piece of wood, which helps anchor the plant to the floor of the tank or even the wall. Bolbitis is found in fast-moving tropical waters. It is an epiphyte and anchors itself to rough rocks or pieces of wood. Also known as Congo fern, the plant is dark green with delicately cut leaves. It is slow growing, but can get tall and is most useful as a bottom plant. The rhizome should not be buried in the substrate but rather tethered to an appropriate piece of lava rock, bark or other medium. The fern can grow 6 to 8 inches wide and as tall as 16 inches. This is accomplished at a snail pace since growing African water fern leaves can take up to 2 months.
Growing African Water Ferns In order to grow the fern in water, it must first be attached to a medium. Release the plant from its nursery pot and clean off the rhizomes. Hold the rhizomes in place on the chosen medium and wrap them onto it with fishing line. Over time the plant will self attach and you can remove the line. The fern prefers slightly acidic to soft water with gentle current and medium light, although it can adjust to brighter light levels. Keep the plant looking its best by removing dying fronds at the base of the rhizome. Propagation of Bolbitis water ferns is through rhizome division. Use a sharp, clean blade to ensure a sterile cut and then tie the new rhizome to a rock or piece of bark. The plant will eventually fill in and produce another thickly fronded fern. Use a diluted liquid fertilizer at start time that is consistent with aquatic use. The best growth is achieved by plants situated near the bubbler or current source.
African Water Fern Care These are fairly easy plants to maintain as long as the tank and water health is good. They do not do well in brackish or salty water, and should be grown in fresh water only. If you wish to fertilize after its initial planting, use a balanced liquid fertilizer once per week and infuse the water with CO2. Fertilizer is not necessary in a low maintenance tank where fish waste will provide nutrients. Keep temperatures between 68 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit/20 to 26 degrees Celsius. African water fern care is minimal and this easy-to-grow plant will decorate your natural tanks for years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bladderwort plants are rootless aquatic, carnivorous plants usually found in shallow ponds, lakes, ditches, marshes and slow-moving streams and rivers. Bladderworts (Utricularia spp.) are rootless plants with long, leafless stems that extend prominently above the water. Through the summer, the stems are topped by bright yellow to purple flowers. If you’re interested in growing bladderworts, or if you’re more concerned with bladderwort control, keep reading for more bladderwort information.
Interesting Bladderwort Information The bladderwort family includes about 200 species, but only about 50 exist in the United States. Although the visible stems are bare, the plants have small, underwater leaves that resemble rubbery bladders. The bladders are equipped with tiny hairs that are triggered by small insects, like mosquito larvae and water fleas. The trigger opens a “trap door” that lures the creatures with a sweet, slimy substance. Once the creatures are lured into the trap, they are eaten and digested by the plant. The submerged portions of bladderwort plants provide critical habitat and food for a variety of small aquatic creatures. The plants are eaten by a huge number of water dwellers, including fish, ducks, reptiles, turtles, deer, frogs and toads. The flowers are pollinated by small insects such as flies and bees.
Bladderwort Control The presence of bladderwort plants indicates a healthy aquatic environment. However, the plant is rambunctious and can become invasive in certain conditions. When this happens, the plants can choke out native plants and alter the natural balance of chemicals in the water. The large mats, measuring as much as 7 feet across, present problems for boaters and other recreationists. The environmentally friendly way of bladderwort control involves hand pulling the plant, or removing plants with an aquatic weed rake or weed cutter. It’s best to remove smaller patches, and it’s typical for plants to regrow from the roots. Grass carp, which like to dine on bladderwort, often do a good job at keeping the plant in check, but be sure the fish are permitted in your area. Be patient; you probably won’t notice much benefit until the second season. Check the regulations in your state if the problem is so severe that you are considering chemical control, because most states maintain tight control over use of herbicides in aquatic environments. You may need a permit, or you may be required to hire a licensed person.
Growing Bladderworts If you want to cultivate bladderwort plants, you can dig up and transplant portions of mature plants in spring or shake dry flowers over a small dish or paper plate to remove the tiny seeds. Bladderwort plants reseed easily, but remember its considerable invasive potential. You can also grow bladderwort plants indoors as tropical houseplants. The plants need at least four hours of bright sunlight and prefer another four hours of indirect or filtered light every day. Plant bladderwort in one part perlite and one part peat, and no potting soil. Set the container in a dish of mineral-free water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
There’s nothing like a crisp, juicy apple that you grew yourself. It’s absolutely the best thing in the world. However, being an apple grower also means having to watch out for diseases that can cripple or destroy your hard-earned crop. Armillaria root rot of apple, for example, is a serious disease that can be difficult to manage once established. Luckily, it has some very distinct symptoms that you can monitor your orchard (or solitary apple tree!) for year round.
Armillaria Root Rot on Apples Armillaria root rot is caused by several fungal pathogens of the species Armillaria. These fungi can be relentless and stealthy, making it hard to know if you have an infection unless you’ve been watching very closely. Ultimately, Armillaria will kill most trees and woody plants it comes in contact with, so it is not a disease to ignore. It can linger in infected stumps and large pieces of underground roots for years or decades, sending out long reddish-brown shoestring-like rhizomorphs in search of new trees to infect. Symptoms of Armillaria in apples may be subtle at first, with signs of stress like drooping or leaf curl along the midrib, leaf bronzing and wilting or branch dieback. You might also notice yellowish-gold mushrooms growing at the base of infected trees in the fall or winter – these are the fruiting bodies of the fungus. As the infection takes a stronger hold, your apple tree may develop large dark-colored, oozing cankers and mycelial fans, white fan-like structures, under the bark. Your tree may also start its fall color change earlier than usual, or even collapse suddenly.
Armillaria Root Rot Treatment Unfortunately, there’s no known treatment for Armillaria root rot, so homeowners and farmers alike are left with few solutions for an infected apple orchard. Exposing the crown of the tree can help slow the growth of the fungus, however, giving you more time with your plant. In the spring, remove soil to a depth of nine to 12 inches (30 cm.) around the base of the tree and leave it exposed for the rest of the growing season. Keeping this area dry is vital, so if drainage is a problem, you’ll also need to dig a trench to divert water away.
If your apple succumbs to Armillaria root rot, your best bet is to replant with a less susceptible species, such as pear, fig, persimmon or plum. Always verify the Armillaria tolerance of the variety you choose, since some are more resistant than others. Do not plant a new tree anywhere near the old one without removing the infected stump, as well as any major roots, completely. Waiting a year or two after removal is even better, since this will give time for any small root pieces you may have missed to break down entirely.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that apple trees can take a long time to fruit. This will depend, of course, on the variety of tree you purchase. Some will produce fruit earlier than others.
Soil for Growing an Apple Tree One thing to remember about growing an apple tree is that the pH of the soil has to be just what the tree needs. You should have a soil test done if you are thinking about how to grow an apple orchard or your trees might not survive. Having a soil test done by the extension office is great because they provide the kit, do the test and then can give you a report of exactly what your soil needs in order to have the proper pH. Adding whatever is needed should be done to the depth of 12 to 18 inches so that the roots get the proper pH, or they can burn.
How Do You Plant Apple Trees? Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that higher ground is better for growing an apple tree. This is because low lying frost can kill the blossoms on the tree in the spring. Growing an apple tree on higher ground protects the blossoms from an early death, thus ensuring a good crop of apples. Apple tree growing info also advises not to plant the trees near the woods or streams. Both of these environments can ruin the tree. Growing an apple tree requires full sunshine. You will know when to grow apple trees when you can actually dig the hole necessary to plant the tree. Obviously, springtime is best, but make sure the ground is good and thawed.
When planting apple trees, pay attention to how the root ball goes into the ground. Growing an apple tree will require that you dig your hole double the diameter of the root ball and at least two feet deep. When you cover the roots with soil, you tamp it down as you go so you can ensure that the roots are completely touching the dirt. This makes certain your tree is going to get all the nutrients necessary from the soil because the air pockets were removed. When caring for an apple tree, you can add fertilizer, but don’t fertilize at planting time because you can burn the roots. Wait until the plant has established itself and then feed it according to the instructions on the fertilizer package. Most of the time, if your soil has the proper pH, you won’t need to fertilize your apple trees.
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