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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Saintpaulia, also known as African Violets are one of the world’s most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don’t be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African Violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it’s possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) above the leaves. Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don’t allow the plant to sit in water. Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF (15ºC). They thrive at 70ºF (21ºC).
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential. Poor drainage can cause root rot, in which the plant becomes waterlogged and its leaves begin to fall, so make sure that the plant is never allowed to be exposed to standing water for an extended period of time. Fertilizer: Feed with a African Violet fertilizer every other week.
Repotting African Violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up. To repot these plants, simply grab the plant as a whole, lift it, and replace it into a larger container, making sure not to damage their root systems in the process. Common signs that a plant is stressed out and needs to be repotted include falling leaves and overcrowding, as well as roots that protrude from the surface of the soil. Keep an eye out and repot if you think it’ll help.
Propagation African Violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.
Grower’s Tips African Violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot. Growing these houseplants is really a matter of balance; you have to make sure that the different factors that go into their cultivation all are weighted against each other. They should be kept in moist enough conditions that they don’t dry out, yet still exposed to a fresh breeze to avoid letting them get too stuffy, and exposed to sunlight without damaging their leaf tips. Don’t be discouraged if your African Violets suffer some damage — it’s all part of the process.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hibiscus flowers are one of the most spectacular blossoms a container gardener can grow. The blooms are large, colorful and incredibly graceful. The foliage of the Hibiscus plant is also beautiful – the dark green, glossy leaves, provide a wonderful contrast to the extravagant blooms.
Tropical Hibiscus flowers are one of the enduring symbols of the tropics. These much-beloved, large and showy flowers can be grown inside in temperate zones, but it’s not an easy task. The trick with success is twofold: managing the deadly winter, and fending off hungry insects. If you can fall into a rhythm, it’s possible to keep a hibiscus plant thriving for a decade or more, with blooms in the summer.
Growing Conditions Light: Place outside in the summer, gradually acclimating to more light. In the winter, give as much direct light as possible. Water: Water freely in the summer, but excellent drainage is a must. Never let the mix become soggy. In the winter, let dry almost completely before watering again. Temperature: Even a few nights below 50ºF (10ºC) will kill a Hibiscus. Move them inside when the temperature is consistently 55ºF (13ºC). They prefer between 55ºF and 70ºF (13ºC and 21ºC). Soil: Use a well-drained potting mix. Ensure also that the plant isn’t packed in too tight in order to keep its drainage is good. Poor drainage could rot the plant’s roots and slowly wear it down. Fertilizer: Feed in the early summer with a slow-release fertilizer or weekly with a liquid, blooming fertilizer.
Repotting Repot as necessary, yearly or biannually. Hibiscus will grow into trees in their native habitats, but this may be unwieldy in a home setting. There’s also some benefit to keeping the Hibiscus in a relatively smaller pot, as it will make for easier pruning and moving. Failure to repot these plants often can leave them in soil without adequate nutrients for their survival, and repotting will often spur on growth if you’re finding that your Hibiscus plants seem to have stalled out. Watch out for falling leaves or other signs of stress.
Propagation Hibiscus can be propagated with soft-stem cuttings in late spring, when the plant begins to grow again. Use rooting hormone and shelter the cutting from direct sun until it begins to grow. Many gardeners bag their plants, which seals in heat and moisture and increases newly planted cuttings’ chances of surviving. Don’t be discouraged if you can’t propagate your Hibiscus plants right away; it’s a process that takes time, even for experienced gardeners, and upon success you’ll find your new plants all the more rewarding.
Grower’s Tips Hibiscus should be moved outside in the summer, then back inside during the winter. Tips for a successful transition include: Trim the plant hard before moving it inside for the winter. It will go into near dormancy until late winter. After you trim it, but before you bring it in, treat it thoroughly for insects. Neem oil and liquid detergent work well, or use a hose to blast off insects.
Once inside, don’t overwater, but provide as much humidity as possible, including daily mistings. Don’t expose to blowing air from vents. When the weather warms to above 50ºF (10ºC) at night, move it back outside and acclimate slowly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bleeding Heart or Asian Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a species of flowering plant in the Poppy Family (Papaveraceae), native to Siberia, northern China, Korea and Japan. It is the sole species in the monotypic genus Lamprocapnos, but is still widely referenced under its old name Dicentra spectabilis.
It’s easy to see where the old-fashioned Bleeding Heart got its name. The pillow-like flower is heart shaped with a single dangling pendulous drop. Bleeding Hearts are shade loving woodland plants that bloom in the cool of spring. Although they stay in bloom for several weeks, the plants may disappear for the rest of the summer, if planted in too much sun or heat.
Growing Conditions Light: In a moist and cool climate, Bleeding Heart will grow in full sun, but in warmer and drier climates it requires some shade. Water: Keep plants well watered throughout the summer, especially in warmer weather. Even then, they may be ephemeral and disappear until the fall or next spring. If you’ve recently planted your Bleeding Heart, it would be wise to mark the spot, so you don’t accidentally dig in the area while your Bleeding Heart is dormant. Soil: Bleeding Hearts prefer a rich, moist soil, but are not particular about soil pH. Fertilizer: Bleeding Heart is not a heavy feeder, so when to fertilize depends on the quality of your soil. If you have rich, organic soil that is amended every year, you won’t have to feed at all.
Propagating Bleeding Hearts can be started from seed, division, cutting or seedling. It is very easy to divide Bleeding Heart plants. It should be divided after flowering, so you don’t sacrifice bloom. The fringed-leaf varieties divide nicely early in spring, as they are emerging. Bleeding Heart can also be started by seed or stem cuttings. Plants very often self-seed throughout your garden, although not to the point of being a nuisance. Sow seed outdoors in the fall; the seeds need a period of freezing temperatures. To start seeds indoors, place seeds in a pot of soil. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place in the freezer for 6-8 weeks. Remove the pot and all to germinate and grow in regular seedling conditions.
Problems The biggest foe of Bleeding Heart is summer heat. Gardeners in warmer zones will have a tougher time establishing their plants than those in the colder zones. Leaves are susceptible to leaf spot. The easiest solution is to shear back the affected foliage. Although Bleeding Heart likes a moist soil, it can’t tolerate heavy, wet soil and may get root rot if left with wet feet too long.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Plumeria plants, which are also known as Lei Flowers and Frangipani, are actually small trees that are native to tropical regions. The flowers of these beautiful plants are used in making traditional Hawaiian leis. They are highly fragrant and bloom freely from spring throughout fall in multiple colors like white, yellow, pink, and red. These flowers stand out nicely amid the large-leaved foliage, which may be evergreen or deciduous, depending on the type.
Although you don’t have to live in the tropics to grow Plumeria in the home garden, you should be aware of its growing requirements beforehand. Growing Conditions and General Care Often grown in the garden as an ornamental shrub or small tree, Plumeria plants need to be grown in well-draining soil that is slightly acidic. They also need at least six hours of full sun.
While the plants are fairly tolerant of both salt and windy conditions, they’re not tolerant of cold and must be protected. Therefore, they should be container grown in colder regions. In areas that may be warm most of the time but still fairly prone to cold winters, the plant can be dug up and overwintered indoors. Alternatively, you can sink container grown Plumerias in the ground, bringing them indoors once the temperatures begin to drop in fall. Once warmer temps return in spring, you can return the plants back outdoors.
When growing Plumeria plants in pots, use a coarse, well-draining potting mix—cactus mix or perlite and sand should be fine. Plumeria care, for the most part, is minimal. While Plumerias don’t like wet feet, they should be watered deeply when irrigated and then allowed to dry out some before watering again. They also need to be fertilized about every two to three weeks throughout their active growing season. Reduce watering in mid fall and stop completely once the plants enter dormancy in winter. Resume regular watering as new growth appears in spring. A high phosphate (phosphorus) fertilizer, like 10-30-10, will help encourage blooms. Giving them too much nitrogen will only result in more foliage growth and less flowering.
Pruning Plumerias may be pruned as needed (up to 12 inches from ground) in late winter or early spring (prior to new growth); however, any drastic or hard pruning done may reduce flowering.
Propagation These plants can also be propagated by seeds or cuttings in spring, with cuttings being the easiest and most preferred method. Insert cuttings about 2 inches in potting mix and water thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Oxalis are annual or perennial plants. The leaves are divided into three to ten or more obovate and top notched leaflets, arranged palmately with all the leaflets of roughly equal size. The majority of species have three leaflets; in these species, the leaves are superficially similar to those of some clovers.
The flowers have five petals, which are usually fused at the base, and ten stamens. The petal color varies from white to pink, red or yellow. The fruit is a small capsule containing several seeds. Oxalis can be grown indoors as a houseplant or outdoors in the garden. They from the garden center are generally available in the fall or early spring. Growing Conditions Light: Oxalis need bright indirect light to grow well and produce flowers. They can often bloom all winter if kept in a sunny spot.
Water: Keep the soil of a Oxalis barely moist but never soggy; allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering. It’s best to water a Oxalis from the bottom so that the thin fragile stems of the plant don’t get water logged and the soil stays loose. Temperature: They grow best in cool temperatures between 60ºF to 70ºF (15ºC to 21ºC) during the day and 55ºF to 65ºF (13ºC to 18ºC) at night. Soil: The soil for a Oxalis should be loose and sandy rather than rich and organic. Fertilizer: Feed a Oxalis monthly in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic houseplant food at ½ the recommended strength. Never feed a Oxalis when it is dormant and the bulbs are resting.
Potting and Repotting The Oxalis doesn’t need a big container as it’s rather dense and compact for its size. The original potting will be easy and repotting after that won’t have to be done too much after unless you want to change up the pot for looks. The plan tends to grow to the side with some white flowers coming out in bunches underneath the purple leaves. As long as the pot gives the plant and roots plenty of room to drain then you’ve done a good job in this process.
Propagation To propagate the plant, simply split the plant into smaller plants and place them in their own pots. Keep it out of direct sunlight until new shoots appear.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant. Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections. Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial. Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
The bright orange-to-yellow flowers of Clivia plants add a warm and tropical flair to the landscape. These South African natives produce dark green, sword-shaped leaves that provide a contrasting texture to the foliage of woody evergreen and deciduous plants. Although Clivias grow well in containers in any zone, they thrive when planted outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Clivia plants require partial to full shade and fast-draining loamy soils to produce healthy growth.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation Spread a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch around the Clivia plant with a rake. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) from the base of the plant to avoid rot. Water the Clivia plant when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil become dry during the active growing season using a garden hose. Keep the soil moist but never soggy. Never water the Clivia to the point that there is standing water on the soil’s surface. Reduce watering in the late fall and winter months when the plant enters dormancy. Water dormant Clivia plants when the top 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) of soil becomes dry.
Fertilize the Clivia with a 6-6-6 nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium formulation slow-release fertilizer every three months during the growing season. Apply at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer in a ring around the Clivia plant, keeping the granules 12 inches (30 cm) from its base. Rake the fertilizer into the top 3 inches (7.5 cm) of soil. Water the area thoroughly. Do not apply fertilizer while the plant is dormant. Deadhead the Clivia plant in the late spring when the flowers are spent. Cut through the base of the flower stalks with a pair of pruning shears. Make the cut 1/4 inch (6 mm) above the point where the flower stalk joins with the main plant. Discard the spent flowers in a trash bin or on top of a compost pile.
Spray the plant’s foliage periodically with a steady stream of water to wash away dust and grime that may attract harmful insects. Wash the leaves in the early morning hours to give the foliage time to dry before nightfall. Place slug and snail traps around the base of the plant to stop these pests from feeding on its foliage. Spray horticultural oil or insecticidal soap onto foliage infested with aphids, spider mites or scale.
Propagation Divide the Clivia plant every three to five years. Dig up the plant in the spring, just after it has finished flowering. Dig in a ring around the plant, 12 inches (30 cm) away from its center with a shovel or trowel. Dig down to a depth of 10 inches (25 cm) and undercut the root ball to free it from the soil. Lift the plant from the ground and brush away excess soil. Pull the plant apart, separating individual stems with a healthy portion of the swollen roots. Replant the divisions, spacing multiple plants 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart. Do not plant Clivia plants deeper than they were previously growing. Water the transplanted Clivia plants thoroughly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Including the lipstick vine and basket vine, the Aeschynanthus genus includes remarkable hanging plants with showy red, orange or yellow terminal flowers that emerge from “tubes” which resemble lipstick cases. Better suited to its native rainforest habitat, Aeschynanthus presents a challenge for the indoor gardener. They generally require high humidity and warmth during the summer months, followed by a brief period of cold during the winter to stimulate a bloom.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine. Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don’t let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred. If you’re growing in a basket, you will need to water more frequently during the growing season. However, the exact watering schedule will be party determined by your humidity levels, temperature, and choice of potting media. Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF (18ºC). In the winter, a brief period of 55 to 65ºF (13 to 18ºC) will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is best. Avoid heavy garden soils, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. In general, the lighter the mix, the better, but keep in mind that very light mixes will drain faster and require more frequently watering. Also, it’s a good idea to repot your hanging plants more frequently, as they soil in a hanging basket tends to become exhausted faster than soil in pots. Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions. Liquid fertilizers are often best for hanging applications, because they provide a steady supply of food. However, for best effect, make sure to use the fertilizer with every application during the growing season. If it will be challenging to stick to this schedule, sprinkle the soil surface with a good controlled-release fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting Repotting depends on your container choice. For hanging plants, you should repot in the beginning of every growing season. You can keep the plant in the same basket year after year, but you’ll still need to refresh the soil and, if the plant has become too large, divide it. You can pot the division up separately. If you’re growing in a container, repot either annually or every other year, depending on the size of the plant.
Propagation Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container. Take a cutting with several leaves and a length of stem. Strip away the bottom one or two sets of leaves to expose one or two growing nodes. Dip these into rooting hormone (if you’re using it), then bury the cutting and the exposed nodes into a clean potting mix. You can use a seedling mix if you have some on hand. Keep the cutting in a bright, warm place with high humidity. When you start to see new growth, you’ll know the cutting has rooted. Wait until the plant has put out several sets of new leaves before repotting to a more permanent container.
Grower’s Tips Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse, sunroom or conservatory.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Nematanthus (Goldfish Plant) is a genus of flowering plants of the family Gesneriaceae. All of its species are endemic to Brazil. The plant is generally an epiphyte in nature and a hanging-basket plant in cultivation.
If you have a high light area that calls for a hanging or table plant that flowers, Nematanthus are a perfect choice. They have hundreds of small, thick, shiny, dark green leaves and colorful flowers that resemble tiny goldfish. The flowers on a Nematanthus may be red, orange, or yellow. Plants are easy to care for, drought resistant, and, with proper care, can bloom all year.
Growing Conditions Light: Place the Nematanthus in bright light, but protect it from direct sunlight. Put the plant a few feet away from a bright window, or place it next to a window covered with a sheer curtain. Curled leaves are an indication that the plant needs a bit more light. Water: Water the Nematanthus regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out. Water to the point that the soil is moist, but never allow the soil to become soggy. Pour water out of the drainage saucer immediately, and do not allow the bottom of the container to sit in water. Temperature: Keep the plants in a warm room and don’t allow temperatures to drop below 60ºF (15ºC). Don’t place the plant near heating vents or air conditioners, and protect the plant from cold drafts.
Soil: It like a rich potting soil that holds water but still drains quickly. Fertilizer: Fertilize a Nematanthus every two weeks in the spring and summer when it is actively growing with a basic plant food at 1/2 the recommended strength. Feed the plant monthly in the fall and winter. Pruning Remove old flowers and prune back stems as needed to maintain size. Most are trailing plants grown in baskets and periodically they can be trimmed back to maintain the length of the stems.
Repotting Repot overcrowded plants in a larger container, or divide them and pot them up in separate containers; this will increase your quantity of plants easily. Pests and Disease Nematanthus have susceptibility to mealy bugs, cyclamen mites, aphids and thrip as well as whitefly. Under excessive moisture, they can have problems with root diseases.
Propagation Propagate Nematanthus using stem cuttings from healthy new growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
In cold climates, Snowdrops (Galanthus) are often the first flowers to bloom – and a welcome sight they are. Their tiny, drooping flowers and grass-like foliage give the plant the appearance of delicacy, but Snowdrops are hardy plants, often poking up and blooming despite the snow remaining on the ground.
Snowdrops may take a while to naturalize in your garden or yard, but eventually you’ll see them popping up in places you’re sure you never planted them. They can hybridize between species, so expect surprises.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun to partial shade. Heat will shorten their bloom period and will cause them to wilt and go into dormancy. Water: Water well and keep watering weekly, until the ground has frozen. They won’t sprout until next spring, but they are growing roots. Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 8, depending on species. Soil: Snowdrops like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH and a rich but well draining soil. Fertilizer: If your soil is lean, you may want to consider a bulb fertilizer after flowering.
Propagation Snowdrops can be started from seed, but since they hybridize easily, they won’t come true from seed. Plant the bulbs point up, about 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) apart and about 2 inches (5 cm) deep, in heavy soil; 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) in sandy soil. Actually, if you dig a wide hole, you can just scatter the bulbs, or scatter them on the surface and poke them in, if the soil is soft enough. Try not to crowd them too much, or you’ll be dividing them sooner.
Pests and Diseases Luckily there aren’t a lot of pest out when snowdrops bloom. However snails and slugs will eat their leaves, later in the spring. The good news is Snowdrops are resistant to deer, rabbits ad even groundhogs. Snowdrops can also be prone to fungal diseases, especially gray mold (botrytis). Good air circulation and well draining soil will usually prevent problems.
Grower’s Tips Snowdrops need some sunlight to bloom, but too much sun will ‘melt’ them – cause them to whither away. The dappled shade of a deciduous tree, before it has leafed out in the early spring, is perfect. Purchased Snowdrops are planted in the fall, but if a friend lifts some for you in the spring, before the leaves have started to decline, they should take fine, too. Either way, plant them immediately.
After flowering in the spring, let the foliage die back naturally. Snowdrops don’t linger long, like daffodils or tulips. They’ll disappear before you know it. Mark the area, so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs when planting something else, later in the season. In dry seasons, water periodically throughout the summer. For the most part, Snowdrops will take care of themselves. Large, established clumps may eventually have less blooms. At that point, you should consider digging them and dividing the clumps. Do this after flowering. The bulbs are small, but plump, and will break apart easily. Replant immediately.
It is possible to grow your Snowdrops in containers. You can squeeze them in quite close, but they’ll still need to be at least 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) deep. In USDA Zones 5 – 6, your containers may need some winter protection. Since Snowdrops take a few years to become established, they are not often recommended for forcing.
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