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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which Hot Lips falls. Where does Hot lips Grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees. Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant. Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Calliandra, commonly known as Powder Puff plants, are fairly common landscape plants in the tropics and subtropics. There, they are grown as small trees with woody stems and especially prized for their profuse displays of red “powder puff” flowers that blanket the tree every year. The puffs are actually the stamens of the flowers, and they really are beautiful. Indoors, these plants are kept smaller by necessity and, under the right conditions, can be coaxed into winter blooms or year-round blooms. Even though they are somewhat drought tolerant, they are not especially easy to bring to bloom inside. They are sensitive to cold, dry air, which perfectly describes the conditions in many homes. Even if the plant doesn’t bloom, however, its fern-like, segmented leaves are drooping and beautiful.
Growing Conditions Light: Calliandra needs bright light-especially indoors, the more the better. During the height of the growing season, they might need protection from direct sunlight that is magnified by windowglass, but generally for the rest of the year, they like very bright, direct light. Water: During the growth season, water frequently and never allow potting soil to dry out. You can reduce watering somewhat during the winter, but because the most common species is a winter-bloomer, you never want to completely suspend watering. Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial. Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Cut fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Repotting Repot in the early spring (when you take cuttings). In their native habitat, Powder Puff plants grow to medium-sized shrubs or small trees, depending on the year-round conditions and species. Indoors, they won’t become that large, but if your plant is very healthy and thriving, it can easily outgrow your pot and overpower the space. To keep it smaller, only repot every other year. Propagation Powder Puffs can be relatively easily sprouted from stem cuttings. During the spring, when new growth emerges and the winter bloom (if there is one) has faded, take a cutting and pot it in seed-starting soil. Rooting hormone and bottom heat increase your chances of success. These are not especially fast-growing plants, so don’t expect a bloom that first year.
Grower’s Tips Powder Puff plants are not especially difficult to grow indoors, but it can be tricky coaxing them to bloom. They prefer regular moisture, high humidity, bright light and high temperatures. In the absence of these conditions, they will not grow as vigorously and will likely not bloom at all. If you have a conservatory or sunroom, you’ll likely have more success. Powder Puffs are not especially susceptible to pests, but will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites. Signs of infestation include tiny webs on plants, clumps of white “powdery” residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection. As always, start with the least toxic treatment option first, only progressing to more serious chemicals if your initial efforts fail.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Tulipa, also known as Tulips have had a fascinating history. Although closely associated with Holland, tulips were first cultivated in Turkey. The name “tulip” is believed to be derived from the Turkish word for turbans, “tulbend”, because of their resemblance. They gained popularity in Europe in the 17th century, peaking in 1636-1637 with “Tulipmania”, a period when the price of tulips bulbs was higher than the price of a house. Thankfully the price has adjusted and we can all enjoy the bulbs now.
Tulips are a perennial, spring blooming, bulbous plant, although they are short lived in many areas. There are 15 divisions of tulips, based on flower shape and time of bloom. The broad, strappy leaves have a waxy coating that gives them a blue-green color. There are usually 2-6 leaves per plant. Flowers are usually cup-shaped, with 3 petals and 3 sepals, although a few varieties are more star-shaped. They have been hybridized in just about every color but blue. The base of the flower is often a darker color. Most tulips have 1 flower per stem, but there are some multi-flowered varieties.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun to partial shade. Too much shade will diminish blooming. Hardiness Zones: Hardiness Zone USDA Hardiness Zones 4 – 6. There are a few that can survive in Zones 7 and 8, but most need a cold winter, to bloom successive years. Tulips can be temperamental about weather and water. Sometimes it’s easier to grow them as annuals, planting a new batch every fall. Water: If it doesn’t rain, water weekly, until the ground freezes. Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial. Fertilizer: Feed each spring, when the leaves first appear.
Pests and Diseases Tulips are popular with many animals, including deer, squirrels and other rodents. In some areas, it’s just not worth planting tulips in the ground. You are better off with tulips in protected containers. You can try deterrents or interplanting with daffodils, but be prepared to lose a few.
Growing Tips Tulips need a chilling period and are planted in the fall. Planting depth should be about 3 times the bulb’s diameter; small bulbs will be about 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm)deep, larger bulbs 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Add a handful of bulb food or bone meal at planting time and water well. Keep watering weekly, if it doesn’t rain, until the ground freezes. Feed again, when the leaves emerge in the spring. The foliage needs to be allowed to continue growing, after the petals drop, to feed the bulb. However, the flower stalks can be removed to prevent them from setting seed and stealing energy from the bulb. Once the leaves die back, they will pull easily from the soil. The bulbs prefer to be on the dry side, during summer dormancy. Feed each spring, when the leaves first appear.
If you have trouble getting your tulips to come back each year, it could be because the winter is not cold enough, the summer is too wet or something has eaten the bulbs. Whatever the reason, you may prefer to grow your tulips as annuals, replanting each fall. It’s a bit more work, but you won’t need holes as deep as perennialized planting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scilla are diminutive bulbs that carpet the ground in color each spring. They are often overlooked by gardeners in favor of tulips and daffodils, but they are one of the easiest early season wildflowers to naturalize in the landscape.
Scilla is one of the first plants to bloom in spring, surprising gardeners with its intense blue color well before any trees have leafed out. The foliage consists of narrow strap-like stems usually no more than a few inches tall with the flower stalks rising anywhere from four to 12 inches (30 cm) depending on the variety. It’s hardy in USDA zones 2 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care Scilla is adapted to full sun or dappled shade and likes well-drained soil. It naturally grows in rocky wooded areas, so it is just at home in dryish semi-wild parts of the landscape as it is in a rich, moist garden bed. Bulbs should be planted in fall. Plant the bulbs in loose soil three to four inches deep and 8 inches (20 cm) apart with the tapered end pointed up. Scilla should receive regular water during the spring flush of growth. However, since the weather tends to be cool and moist during this time, it is generally not necessary to irrigate. In fact, it is important to not over water, as the bulbs can rot. The foliage should be left after the flowers fade, though it, too, fades in the heat of summer.
Once Scilla leaves are all yellow they may be cut to the ground, and the plant allowed to remain dormant until the following spring. It is important that the bulbs not be watered during the dormant period. Propagation Growing Scillas from seed is easy, but takes a few years to get into flower. Sow harvested seed as soon as ripe – place in cold frame or cold greenhouse. Too much heat will delay germination of Scilla seeds. They will show through in around 6-8 weeks. Digging up and then division of the bulbs after – take off the offsets – in autumn is the quicker way to amass another belt of vivid blue. Plant in their flowering positions, but expect to wait a further year before any flowers of consequence are seen.
Pests and Diseases There are no pests or disease of concern though Scilla grows weakly in hot climates. It is at its best in regions with pronounced winters and mild summers.
Ways to Use Scilla The petit nature of Scilla lends itself to a variety of uses, including container gardens and rock gardens. Perhaps its best use, however, is to encourage it to naturalize in a meadow-like planting or in the understory of a woodland garden. The dwarf varieties are small enough to be naturalized in a lawn, adding flecks of blue amid the blades of grass.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Costus is an uncommon plant in the landscape trade, especially in temperate and colder areas. And that’s a shame. This relatively large genus of about 100 tropical plants was once classified with the gingers, but has since been moved into its own genus. They range throughout the tropical world and grow with large, fleshy leaves that are arranged in whorls around the stem. The flowers emerge from the center of the plant in a small cone with ruffled, crinkled flowers.
Like many plants with fleshy leaves, they have a truly tropical appearance, which belies their relative ease of growth. These are much more cold hardy than some of the other tropicals and can even be grown outside into Zone 8, although they might die back during the colder months. Indoors, it’s best to focus on juvenile plants because the more popular species among them tend to grow fairly large. They are rhizomatous plants (meaning they grow from an underground rhizome), which makes propagation a snap.
Growing Conditions Light: They like morning sun exposure, so an eastern window is perfect. Plants that receive more light should get correspondingly more water. They can be acclimated to full sun and will frequently appreciate a summer on your balcony or porch. Water: They require copious and regular amounts of water. Never let the soil dry out, even during the winter season. Do not, however, let them sit in waterlogged soil or the rhizome could rot. Fertilizer: Feed weekly with a weak liquid fertilizer that includes micronutrients. They are heavy feeders, especially during the growing season. Soil: A light, fast-draining potting soil is perfect.
Repotting Depending on the species, you’ll probably need to repot your Costus annually, in the beginning of the growing season. If you want to keep it a manageable size, use this as an opportunity to divide the rhizome and refresh your potting soil, but keep it in the same size pot. Some of the larger species can grow to 10 feet (3 m) or more, so be aware of the potential size issue.
Propagation They can be propagated by leaf cuttings, but by far the easiest way to propagate a costs is to divide the rhizome or take a piece of it. When dividing the rhizome, look for a piece that’s actively growing or just emerging from the soil. Separate it from the parent plant and repot into a new pot with fresh potting soil. Keep warm and moist, but do not expose to full sun until the first new growth emerges, then you can begin to move it into a sunnier location.
Grower’s Tips Costus fall into the tropical category, so if you do well with philodendrons and other tropical plants, you should be able to grow Costus without too much issue. They aren’t terribly picky about their light, but the key to successful growth is lots of water and lots of fertilizer to keep up with their heavy demands. If your plant starts to suffer from brown leaf margins, it most likely is being underwatered or exposed to cold drafts. Try to raise the humidity and increase the water. Costus are susceptible to mealybugs and aphids. Keep a careful eye on your plants and inspect them to catch infestations early and treat immediately. Severely infected plants should be discarded.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Aquilegia, also known as Columbine plants are easy-to-grow perennials that offers seasonal interest throughout much of the year. Aquilegia‘s bell-shaped flowers are popular with hummingbirds, bees and gardeners. The mid-spring blooms fill the void between early spring bulbs and peak garden season. They are associated with woodland gardens, but most are widely adaptable. Many of the species are native to areas throughout North America, from Canada to Texas.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years. Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade. Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering. Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage. Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom. If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells. Pests and Diseases Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations. If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sandersonia commonly called Golden Lily of the Valley or Christmas Bells, is a member of the Colchicaceae family, and only one species has been recorded. They are now rare in their native habitat of Natal, South Africa, usually only seen in nature reserves.
This exquisite tuberous plant is closely related to both Gloriosa and Littonia. Although all parts of this plant are poisonous, like all in the Colchicaceae family, the Zulu people were said to use the tuber as aphrodisiac. The plant which is completely dormant in winter emerges in late spring, making rapid growth and is in full bloom around Christmas time.
The branched stems reach up to 2 feet (60 cm) in height and produce upwards of 25 glorious thimble-sized brilliant orange bells on dainty arching pedicels. These bells are reminiscent of Chinese Lanterns and are very decorative. They are sold widely around the world as a cut flower, lasting up to 3 weeks in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care Sandersonia loves a sunny spot with well drained loamy soil enriched with complete fertilizer. They only require water during the growing period until the flowers have finished, we then find it to be more drought tolerant than we expected. However they do not like to be too wet over winter. The tuber has two fleshy prongs emerging from the central ‘bulb’. These prongs should be planted down and covered with 2 inches (5 cm) of top soil with about 3.1 inches (8 cm) between each tuber. When shoots emerge they need to be protected from snails and slugs as they find them most desirable. They will do well in a pot or container so long as there is good drainage.
They increase by making a new tuber each from the growing prong and often a small ‘nut’ on the other prong. They can also be grown from seed which is usually ready to harvest about the end of April. Seed should be planted early winter, sown thinly in trays or pots using a very well drained potting medium and covered with 0.4 inch (1 cm) of mixture.
This unusual South African is a splash of brilliant color at Christmas and well worth trying.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Delicate, pendant flowers of Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) line up along gracefully arching stems in mid-spring. The white or pink blooms are small and waxy, with a cherished fragrance that is irresistible; if you pull up gently on the stems, you will have lovely, long flower spikes to enjoy in a vase, preferably at nose level.
Easily grown, these small plants will take a couple of years to establish and may not flower the first year. But their creeping rhizomes will soon spread rapidly, making an ideal ground cover even under large trees. These hardy perennials thrive in zones 3 through 7, but labor in the South. Plants will keep spreading, so you may want to locate them in a contained area.
Growing Conditions Light: Plant in a mostly shaded to partially shaded area (morning sun only). Water: The plants like moist soil . Water plants in dry weather. Soil: Grow it in a well-drained, loamy soil enriched with humus. Fertilizer: Like any plant, they will grow better if fertilized. Do so in early spring, and again after the blooms have died off.
Pruning Leaves may become tattered and unattractive toward the end of the growing season; simply cut back to ground level. If left intact, the deciduous leaves turn a lovely golden hue in the fall, accompanied by colorful (but inedible) orange berries. Propagation Lily of the Valley can be propagated from seed or their rhizomes. Seeds can take months to germinate. So, most people propagate them using the rhizomes. Dig up rhizomes of established plants in the Fall, and separate into clumps for re-planting.
Pests and Diseases These plants are generally quite healthy and vigorous. Fungal leaf spotting may occur but is usually minor. Remove any affected foliage and destroy. Occasionally weevils will feed on the leaves, making small notches along the edges, but damage is usually insignificant.
Grower’s Tips Despite its temperamental reputation, Lily of the Valley is easy to grow if you buy it ready potted in spring. Dried crowns take ages to get going and do not always survive and it may also prove difficult to establish chunks supplied by friends. In both cases, pot up the crowns separately in loam-based compost, water well and allow them to establish for a year before planting out. (You can do the same in midwinter, forcing the crowns for an early show indoors.) At planting time, work in some humus, good garden compost or, even better, leafmould. Spread out any underground stems and cover with just a couple of inches of the planting mixture. Mulch well with leafmould. If you find that flowering is poor, an occasional dose of high-potash organic liquid feed may help.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Thelymitra, commonly called Sun Orchids, is a genus of about 80 species of terrestrial tuberous plants in the Orchidaceae family distributed throughout Australia, New Zealand and islands to the north of Australia.
They are known as “Sun Orchids” because the colorful flowers of most species only open fully on warm, sunny days, with the desert species requiring more heat than those from temperate areas.
Members of the genus Thelymitra are perennial ground orchids, which die back to underground tubers during the warm dry months of the year. They have a single basal leaf and an erect inflorescence with up to 40 flowers. The flowers may be self-pollinating or insect-pollinated and open only on warm to hot days. Flowers are usually blue, pink, yellow or white, but may have darker spots or blotches or prominent longitudinal veins.
The number of flowers per stem is variable. Some, such as the Scented Sun Orchid, will have up to 30 flowers open on a single stem. Unlike other Australian orchids, this genus has sepals and petals nearly equal in length, with the lip similar to and spreading with them. They have a solitary leaf that is usually elongated and channeled. Species are identified by their color and their column.
Growing Conditions and General Care Sun Orchids can be very tricky in cultivation. However, most are fairly amenable and some are very easy. All plants are summer dormant and rest as tuberoids. Plants emerge in late summer and flower in late winter, spring and early summer. Culture as sunny as possible. In milder climates garden culture is possible. Frost hardy up to 23°F (-5°C). Regular watering during the growing period is essential. Fertilize monthly until flowering. Reduce watering with the onset of flowers and stop as the leaves die back. Completely dry during dormancy. Occasionally a light spray of water for small plants and seedlings to prevent dehydration. If grown inside, move plants temporary outside in late summer as cool nights and some rain will stimulate plants into the new growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dummer. ゛☀
Looking eerily akin to dangling green serpents, Snake Gourds are not an item you will see available in the supermarket. Related to Chinese bitter melons and a staple of many Asian cuisines, Snake Gourds are most likely found in an Asian market, or you may want to grow your own.
As its name not so cunningly suggests, a Snake Gourd is a gourd available in two varieties in the United States. Ornamental Snake Gourds are long, hard-shelled gourds grown as a curio in the garden, while its counterpart is an edible wax-skinned gourd (Trichosanthes cucumerina) that tastes much like a cucumber. Additional Snake Gourd info describes the interior of the striped, speckled fruit as being red, seeded and slightly slimy.
This cucurbit hails from the Asian tropics and is borne from a rapidly growing annual vine with fruit that can reach up to 6 feet (1.8 m) in length! You may also find it referred to as Snake Squash or Club Gourd, and it is often pickled with a texture akin to zucchini when young. It can be used just as a zucchini too — stuffed, baked, pickled, stir fried, and is delicious in all manner of curries and vegetarian dishes.
Extremely popular in Indian dishes, it’s no surprise that Snake Gourd has found its way into ayurvedic medicine, often used as a cooling ingredient. Seeds of the Snake Gourd were sent to Europe from China in 1720. They have long been known to the American and European community, but were never cultivated since the plant needs warm nights to fruit. Today, there is renewed interest in its cultivation due to the rapidly increasing Indian communities in these areas of the globe.
Growing Conditions and General Care Snake Gourds grow in tropical regions, so a similar climate is ideal for cultivating Snake Gourds. For those of you lucky enough to enjoy a warmer, drier environment, growing these gourds in the home garden is well worth the attempt. Apparently, the rule of thumb is, if you can grow Lima Beans in your area, you can grow Snake Gourds. First of all, Snake Gourds need a trellis or something that they can grow up — arbor, chain link fence, etc. Make sure the structure is sturdy due to the weight of the large gourds. Start the seeds indoors early after soaking overnight to increase germination time. Transplant outside much as you would bean plants in well mixed organic matter and topsoil.
Seeds can be saved for the following season but toss out any light colored or white seeds. Keep and plant many more seeds than you think you may need, as the germination rate is only about 60 percent. Snake Gourd care is similar to that of most other gourds. Prune the plant’s lateral branches to increase fruit set and production. Some people tie a pebble or other weight to the flower end of the gourd to foster a straighter fruit, but this is just for aesthetics. There is no need to do so. Harvest Snake Gourds when young, around 40-50 days from planting. The long varietals may then be ready when only 16-18 inches, while the shorter cultivars will be around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length.
Fully ripe fruit is quite inedible, orange and mushy, although the red, jelly-like substance surrounding the seeds can be eaten much as a tomato sauce in recipes or used in ayurvedic medicine. Seeds are often used as fodder for livestock but are toxic to humans.
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