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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Algal leaf spot is a foliar disease most commonly seen in warm humid climates or in greenhouses. The causal organism is Cephaleuros virescens, a green parasitic alga whose usual hosts are plants with leathery leaves such as cotoneasters, magnolias, hollies, rhododendrons and viburnums. Algal leaf spot is sometimes called green scurf because the spots may have a crusty, fuzzy or flaky appearance.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Algal leaf spot is characterized by grayish, green, brown or orange cushion-like blotches on the leaf surface. Some hosts may also have diseased twigs and branches that are girdled and stunted with reddish brown fruiting bodies. The spots are generally 1/2 inch or less in diameter although they may coalesce to form larger colonies. Leaf tissue may die beneath the spots and the leaves may yellow and drop prematurely.
Life Cycle During wet weather, the algae produce spores that are spread by wind and splashing rain. The spores infect leaf tissue causing small, greenish circular spots that may age to light brown or reddish brown. The spots may appear raised and velvety. The algae will overwinter or survive other unfavorable environmental conditions in leaf spots including those on fallen leaves.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Encourage healthy plants with good cultural techniques. This disease is most damaging on plants that are already slow-growing or weakened. 2. Clean up fallen leaves and remove diseased leaves from the plant. Good sanitation practices will help control this disease. 3. Promote dry leaves by improving air circulation and drainage. If necessary, selectively prune overcrowded vegetation. Avoid spraying water on the leaves. 4. Use fungicidal sprays containing copper if chemical control is necessary
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The spruce spider mite (Olibonhychus ununguis) is a cool season mite unlike the two-spotted and red spider mite, which are most prevalent during hot, dry weather. It is native to North America and is one of the most destructive spider mites in the US. Its preferred host is spruce (Colorado blue, Norway, Dwarf Alberta, and white) but it will also feed on arborvitae, cedar (Cedrus), dawn redwood, Douglas fir, hemlock, juniper, larch, and pine. It can cause considerable damage early in the season before many gardeners are even thinking about spider mites and again in the fall.
Symptoms and Diagnosis The first indication of spruce spider mite damage is an off-green color, mottling or stippling of the needles; which may not be very noticeable until early or mid summer. Usually older, inner needles are attacked first. Damaged needles turn yellow then bronze in June and fall prematurely. Fine webbing may also be present. In severe infestations, twigs and branches can drop all their needles and die leaving dead areas on the plant. Stressed trees may be killed.
Life Cycle Small reddish-orange, oval or circular eggs overwinter in bud scales, on the bark and on needles. The young hatch in mid March to late April. Feeding begins and continues through the cool, moist days of spring. When hot, dry conditions begin and daytime temperatures reach 80-90 degrees F., activity slows and resting eggs are laid. The young hatch when the cooler days of fall resume. Spruce spider mites are small, 0.5 mm (1/50 inch), but can be seen with a hand lens. The young are pale green when they first hatch but become very dark green to dark brown as they age. Adults have salmon-pink body-spines and legs. The young have only 6 legs but adults have 8. The spruce spider mite overwinters as eggs in bud scales or on the needles and bark of the host plant. There are 7-10 generations a year. Each can be completed in only 3-4 weeks.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Monitor plants in early spring and again in early fall. Remember, this spider mite is a cool-season mite. Monitoring for the mites and eggs can be done by tapping the branch over a sheet of white paper. Also check for beneficial mites and insects that may be feeding on the spruce spider mites. If beneficial insects are present, let them do the control. Applying a pesticide will kill the beneficial insects and the population of the problem spruce mite can actually increase. Beneficial mites are usually faster moving, are reddish in color, and leave a red stain when crushed. Adult spruce spider mites are green to brown and leave a green stain when crushed. Ten or more mites per sample with few if any beneficials present, usually warrants application of a miticide.
2. Wash the mites and eggs off the foliage with a strong stream of water. A weekly or bi-weekly “washing” of the foliage in spring and fall can help prevent a population build-up. 3. Use insecticidal soaps or horticultural oil. These pesticides are less harmful to beneficial insects that help keep mite populations in check. Needles of blue-needled evergreens sprayed with an oil spray will turn green. The new unsprayed needles, however, will be blue. Soaps do not have this effect on needle color. 4. Apply Neem or a pyrethroid-based pesticide late in the season to kill adults before they lay eggs that will overwinter. 5. If a fall infestation was severe, apply a dormant oil spray in mid winter to kill overwintering eggs.
6. Have the tree sprayed by a certified arborist or tree care professional. Most pesticides available to homeowners are very weak miticides and will not control spruce spider mites well. Stronger miticides are restricted use pesticides and require application by a certified applicator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scale insects are common pests of many trees and shrubs. There are two general types of scale– armored scale and soft scales. A few of the species that fall into the armored scales are oystershell scale, San Jose scale, euonymus scale, and pine needle scale. Some soft scales are cottony maple scale, magnolia scale, and tuliptree scale. Scale coverings range in size, shape, and color depending on species.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Trees heavily infested with armored scale often look water-stressed. Leaves turn yellow and drop, twigs and limbs may die, and the bark cracks and gums. Armored scales can kill trees and must be controlled when their population gets too high. Soft scales also reduce plant vigor, but usually not enough to kill the plant. The main problem soft scales cause is the large amounts of honeydew they produce, which can cover leaves and fruit and act as a growth medium for black, sooty mold. Honeydew also attracts ants, flies, wasps, and bees that can become a nuisance.
Scale are identified by their body covering, which normally appears as a colored raised area on the leaf or stem of the plant that can be flicked off with the point of a knife or a fingernail. They vary in size but are generally only about 1/8 inch long. Life Cycle The life cycle of each species of scale can vary depending on the season and species. Armored scales usually have several generations a year, while soft scales have a single generation.
Scale overwinters on leaves, needles, stems, or twigs of the infested plant under the covering (shell) it creates. Under the scale shell, the female lays eggs. In the spring, the eggs hatch and the unprotected larvae (crawlers) emerge from under the protective shell and begin feeding on their own. The actual date of emergence varies with each type of scale insect and the weather. New plants can be infested when crawlers walk or are blown by the wind to a nearby plant. After a few days, the crawlers of armored scales settle down permanently, molt (and lose their legs), and begin to form their covering. Soon winged adult males crawl out from beneath their cover and mate with covered females. Adult male scales are tiny, winged, and seldom seen. Soft scale crawlers move about the plant a little longer after hatching before they settle down at a permanent feeding site. Some soft scale species move around during their immature stages and retain their legs for life. Their covers may be smooth or cottony, but they are firmly attached to their bodies. Soft scale tends to be larger than armored scale. Mature scales never move once they firmly attach themselves to the plant.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Maintain plant vigor. Maintaining a healthy plant is the best way to prevent infection by diseases or attack by insects. This can be accomplished by proper care including watering, fertilizing, providing a well-draining soil medium, adequate lighting, and air movement. 2. Pruning. Prune out heavily infested shoots or limbs. This will reduce the population and foster growth of new un-infested shoots. 3. Manual. Remove scale manually by rubbing them off the plant using your hand or a toothbrush. In the case of houseplants, use a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol.
4. Biological. Natural enemies, such as the ladybird beetle (ladybug) and small parasitic wasps, help control many scale species. Inspect the scale for round exit holes made by the emerging adult parasites. Before applying any insecticides, check the plant for the presence of the natural enemies and make sure that they are not already reducing scale numbers. If pesticide treatment is deemed necessary, confine the treatment to only those plants infested. 5. Chemical control. Many scale species on deciduous trees can be effectively controlled with either a dormant spray of refined horticultural, superior-type oil or summer oil spray or both. Oils and insecticidal soaps work by smothering the insect, both adults and crawlers. Other insecticides registered for use include malathion, bifenthrin, imidacloprid and pyrethrins. 6. Timing. Broad spectrum insecticidal treatments are most effective when applied in the crawler stage. Monitor by using double-sided sticky tape around some branches of the tree. Crawlers appear as tiny, pale yellow specks ("fried eggs") on the tape.
7.Repeat. In the case of overlapping generations, where every stage of development occurs, two to four applications at ten-day intervals will be needed. 8. Directions. Read and follow label directions. Check to insure the type scale and the host plant are listed on the label before using any insecticide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Root weevils feed on a variety of plants, including needled and broad-leaved evergreens, deciduous and herbaceous plants, and several important food crops. Adults feed on leaves of the host plant and larvae feed on the roots. Host plants differ, but similarities in habits, life cycles, and management practices permit them to be addressed as a group.
Representative root weevil species: Black vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) syn: taxus weevil. Host plants: yews, hemlocks, rhododendrons, several other broad-leaved evergreens, and greenhouse plants such as asters, cyclamens, and impatiens. (see IPM sheet: Black Vine Weevil) Carrot weevil (Listronatus oregonensis) Host plants: carrots and other vegetables. More common in the east. Strawberry root weevil (Otiorhynchus ovatus) Host plant: strawberries. New York weevil (Ithycerus noveboracensis) Eastern U.S., west to Nebraska and Texas. Host plants: Hickory, oak, beech. Sweet potato weevil (Cylas formicarius elegantulus) syn: sweet potato root borer. Introduced species occurring more commonly in the south U.S. Host plant: sweet potato. Probably not here yet, but with global warming, it's probably only a matter of time.
Symptoms and Diagnosis Starting in spring, emerging root weevil adults feed on the leaves of host plants, notching the leaf edges quite distinctively. The adult weevils rest during the day and feed on the leaf margins after sundown. Conifer needle damage is less evident than that on broad leafed plants. Needles may be severed and dropped from the tree. Adults feeding on new growth may result in sparse foliage. Although top feeding of the adults is the most conspicuous damage, root feeding of the larvae does the most damage as they chew and girdle roots of their various host plants. Root weevil larvae can be devastating to conifer seedlings. Woody plant seedlings and propagation cuttings are at risk from both root and top feeding. Injured plants may develop a greenish-yellow cast that does not respond to fertilization and watering. Container grown plants may be severely stunted or killed. Injured plants may die suddenly.
Carrots and sweet potatoes affected by root feeders are not commercially viable and mostly not fit for the table. Damage to roots and crowns can weaken, stunt, and kill strawberry plants. Life Cycle Outdoors, there is one weevil generation per year. Greenhouse conditions may permit two generations annually. Many, if not most, root weevils dispense with the annoyance and inconvenience of males, producing the eggs of the next generation by means of parthenogenensis. Females deposit eggs in soil and debris near the host plant, starting usually in mid-summer, and continuing well into the fall, laying hundreds of eggs. Eggs hatch in about 10 days and the larvae move into the soil, feeding on root hairs and roots. Older larvae may girdle entire stems. Larvae are legless, c-shaped, and cream colored with brown heads. They spend the winter in the soil and continue their development in the spring as the soil warms. This second feeding period is the most destructive. Later in the spring, the mature larvae pupate in the soil and soon emerge as adult weevils. After several weeks of feeding on the leaves of host plants, adults begin the egg laying cycle again. Some adult weevils will not expire in the fall but will over-winter. These over-wintering adults will begin egg laying earlier than those adults just emerging from the pupae state.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies (Control efforts may be directed towards both larvae and adults.) 1. Use nematodes can be applied as a soil drench to control root weevil larvae. Two commercially available cultures, Steinernema and Heterorhabditis are effective. Timing is critical. Apply nematodes when soil temperature is 55°F and soil is moist. Pull back any mulch, apply the nematodes and replace the mulch. 2. Apply pesticides. Chemical stomach poisons applied to the foliage are effective. Pesticides registered for use include acephate (Orthene), azadirachtin (Bio-Neem), imidacloprid (Merit), cyfluthrin and endosulfan (Thiodan). Pesticides should be applied to the foliage thoroughly, allowing excess to run off into the soil beneath the plant. Repeat at least twice at two week intervals. Pesticides appropriate for ornamentals may not be safe for vegetable and fruit crops. Read and follow the label instructions on all pesticides.
3. Use sticky substances. Adult weevils emerge from soil and debris at night and climb the plants to eat. Lower trunks of host plants may be wrapped with a four inch band of masking tape and the product Tanglewood applied to the taped surface. Check for buildup of dead insects regularly, and refresh as needed. 4. Try an organic solution. Weevils are attracted to water and may be trapped in shallow pans inset into the soil near affected host plants. Products that contain the organically derived insecticide spinosad are also labeled for leaf-feeding beetles on a wide variety of plants, and may be worth a try. Diatomaceous earth dusted at the base of affected plants is useful. In serious infestations, the lower sides of stems and leaf undersides should also be dusted.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The European pine shoot moth, Rhyacionia buoliana is a very serious pest of mugo and red pines in ornamental plantings. Austrian, Scotch (Scots), and Japanese black pines also may be badly damaged. It was first observed in this country in 1913, attacking ornamental Scotch (Scots) pines on Long Island. Because of this insect, a federal quarantine prohibiting importing pines from Europe was established in 1915.
Larvae of several other species of small moths tunnel in the tips of pines wherever susceptible conifers are grown in the United States. The most damaging of these species also belong to the genus Rhyacionia. Symptoms and Diagnosis The damage inflicted by all species of Rhyacionia is similar: the tips of terminal and lateral shoots are killed as a result of larval boring, initially into the base of the needles or buds, and then into the shoot itself. Attacked buds can be stunted and tend to be coated with resin. Silk webbing is often present. Mining or tunneling may be difficult to find due to copious resin flow.
Early indications of attack are yellowing of needles near the tips of twigs and often clear deposits of pitch around and between new bud clusters. Later, dead buds and dead or deformed shoots result in striking deformity of the tree. Life Cycle In late July or early August for a period of several weeks, adult moths lay small, flattened eggs on new shoots near the base of the needles or bud scales. The young hatch and spin resin-coated webs between the needles and twigs where they bore into the base of needles and begin feeding. As the larvae grow they move to the buds where they continue to feed and then bore into the tips where they overwinter. The boring process causes a distinctive crust of resin to form, which can be diagnostic of the presence of pine shoot moth. The following spring the larvae emerge from hibernation and continue feeding until they pupate in May or June. During this spring period is when most damage occurs. There is one generation per year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies 1. Maintain plant vigor. Dry weather and poor soil conditions encourage damage by tip moths; therefore, water during times of drought. 2. Select planting area carefully. Pine trees should be planted in well-drained soil that is slightly acid. Pines should not be planted in continually wet areas.
3. Prune. For small plantings or small trees, prune or handpick infected shoots and dispose of material, thus eliminating the larvae. 4. Insecticide. In early spring, spray with an insecticide and follow up with another application in late spring. Some of the chemicals that ma
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hens and Chicks plant (Sempervivum spp.) produce rosettes of thick leaves that cluster together in colonies of both large and small plants. Foliage color varies depending on the variety, but many feature green interior leaves surrounded by a ring of red or darker green foliage. Each Hens and Chicks rosette flowers approximately every four years, near the end of its life, but the plants are constantly producing new rosettes from the roots to replace those that fade. Hens and Chicks grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 8, but you can grow them as houseplants everywhere.
1. Place potted plants in an area that receives full sunlight. Grow potted plants in a fast-draining succulent mix in a pot that contains at least one bottom drainage hole. Outdoors, plant Hens and Chicks in a sandy or rocky bed that drains quickly and receives full sun to part shade.
2. Water the plants only when the soil dries out completely. Water until moisture drips from the bottom of the pot and empty the pot’s drip tray after the soil finishes draining, usually within 30 to 60 minutes. Garden plants rarely require watering. 3. Cut old rosettes of foliage from the plant after they produce a flower and die back naturally. Cut the rosettes off the plant at ground level with a clean, sharp knife.
4. Remove offsets, or small new plants, from the outside of a group of Hens and Chicks to propagate new plants. Cut the small offsets from the small plants just below the soil surface with a sharp knife. Plant the rosettes in a well-draining bed or pot of succulent potting soil immediately after removal. The offsets quickly set roots and grow into new plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are considered low-maintenance plants even when grown indoors. The leaves and stems hold water as an adaptation to growing in arid areas. These plants offer unusual shapes, textures and forms. They make good houseplants for year-round growing inside. Plants grown in pots outdoors can be brought indoors during the winter to protect the cold-temperature sensitive succulent varieties.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures. 4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Every year about this time, stores of all sorts sell something called “Christmas Cactus”, a showy plant with segmented foliage that arches out over the sides of the pot. Since most people find the foliage relatively unimpressive, the seasonal specials are always sold in bud or with newly-opened blooms. The long, tubular flowers, which appear at the ends of the stems, are made up of many slender, pointed petals fused at the bases. Flower colors range from white through shades of peach, orange, purple, rose and red, with bi-colored varieties widely available.
Sometimes merchants trying for early sales offer the similar-looking “Thanksgiving Cactus” starting just after Halloween. To the casual buyer, these are dead ringers for Christmas Cactus and also bear a close resemblance to the “Easter Cactus” sold in the spring. To make matters just a little more complicated, the various holiday cacti are all sometimes sold under the exotic-sounding name “Zygocactus”.
So what is up with all of these holiday cacti? Is it all marketing or are they different plants? More to the point, if you are seduced by those showy blossoms, will your Thanksgiving/Christmas/Easter cactus survive for more than a few weeks? Southerners, especially older ones, will sometimes tell tales of family Christmas Cacti that have survived for generations. Are they talking about the same plants that now grace thousands of big box stores? Even reference sources differ on the specifics of holiday cactus nomenclature. The experts at Clemson University identify Thanksgiving Cactus as a single species, Schlumbergera truncata, Christmas Cactus as Schlumbergera bridgesii and the closely related Easter Cactus as Hatiora gaertneri. English botanist Martyn Rix identifies Christmas Cactus as a hybrid, Schlumbergera x buckleyi, originally created in the 1840’s by a man named Buckley who crossed Schlumbergera truncata with Schlumbergera russelliana to create the progenitors of the modern hybrid Christmas cactus.
What does all this mean? For the average person—absolutely nothing. Those who have nurtured ancestral Christmas Cacti for decades can rest assured that their holiday plants are essentially the same as the specimens that today’s urban sophisticates buy in funky shops to decorate their minimalist apartments. All holiday cacti are very similar, except for bloom times. They are native to areas of Brazil near Rio de Janeiro, where they live as epiphytes, non-parasitic plants that flourish in trees, deriving sustenance from air, water and debris that collect around them. This is good news for those of us who love them, as they don’t need the bright sunlight required by terrestrial cacti. They also do not have the sharp spines of some of their relatives in the true cactus or Cactaceae family.
The vast majority of holiday cacti are sold growing in soil-like potting mix. What they really need is excellent drainage, not to mention caretakers who refrain from flooding them with water every day. Overwatering—which means watering before the soil is dry to the touch—can result in potentially fatal rot. If your holiday cactus is not thriving, cut back on water and repot it in a mixture of about 40 percent perlite—available at garden centers—and 60 percent fresh potting mix. Those who hate repotting plants can take comfort in the knowledge that holiday cacti bloom best when they are slightly pot-bound and only need repotting every three or four years.
All holiday cacti should come in before nighttime temperatures begin falling below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). Sometimes, if the plant undergoes dramatic temperature changes, flower buds will drop off. There is not much to be done, other than avoiding extremes the next time. Fertilize with a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing in late summer to encourage flower formation in Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti. Resume about a month after the flowers have bloomed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents and their care are different from annuals, perennials, shrubs, or other greenery. They’re drought tolerant, easy to care for, uniquely shaped, and are able to thrive in places that would likely kill other plants. Whether you’re new to growing these living treasures, or you’re more experienced, some of these myths may surprise you. It’s time to dispel these common myths that keep your plants from thriving.
1. All Succulents are Hardy Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum. 2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun. 3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil. 4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home. 7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Jungle Cacti are a group of cacti that grow in rain forests. Unlike their desert relatives, these plants do not resemble one another and many do not have spines. Jungle Cacti include those species in genera such as Acanthocereus, Disocactus, Epiphyllum, Hatiora, Hylocereus, Lepismium, Rhipsalis, Schlumbergera, Selenicereus, and perhaps a few others. Almost everyone has seen at least one representative from this group even if they were unaware that the plant was actually a cactus. The most common of these are the Holiday Cacti: Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi). These plants are all true cacti despite their lack of big spines and inability to withstand the harsh conditions of the desert. Now when we associate “cactus” with one of these, it does not seem unusual that they would require different care when growing than the stereotypical image that comes to mind when we think about the family Cactaceae.
Soil Most Jungle Cacti are either epiphytic or lithophytic meaning they grow in trees or grow on rocks respectively. This type of plant gets its nutrients from the air or from dead leaves and other debris that may have collected in crotches, cracks, or crevasses. It is important to note that there are no parasitic cacti. Those that grow in trees do so for support, but do not sap nutrients from their host. For best results we’ll want our soil to mimic these natural conditions. Some good ingredients for creating a suitable potting mixture for Jungle Cacti include: orchid bark, pearlite, potting soil, peat, coir, pumice, and oak leaf mold. The most important aspect of the mixture is good drainage. The pearlite helps create this by keeping the soil loose and “airy” and so does the orchid bark. Additionally the orchid bark tends to hold more moisture than pearlite or gravel. Pumice can be substituted for the pearlite. Keep in mind that the orchid bark will eventually break down into soil. This will create a very rich soil that may not be as effective in keeping the roots healthy. Repot your Jungle Cacti every 2 or three years with a fresh mix. The best time to do this is shortly after your plant has finished blooming. This is when it will be ready to start growing again. You might also add some fertilizer to the new mix.
Water Well drained soil is critical for keeping the water from rotting the roots off the plant. With the proper soil, however, watering is really quite simple. The easiest way to gauge whether or not it’s time to water is to stick your finger in the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. If the soil is dry, go ahead and water. If it’s not, wait! Don’t let your Jungle Cactus go too long without water. If the stem segments are shriveled and the soil is dry, it is probably in need of water. Be careful! If the plant is over watered, the stems will also look shriveled, but the soil will be damp. If this is the case, do not give it more water. An over-watered plant will start to turn yellowish, then get more and more mushy and dark reddish-brown like a rotten apple. This is because the cells took in so much water they broke and are now dead and rotting. This usually happens from the ends first. This will continue even after you stop watering too much, but often you will have enough plant left to start over.
Light Jungle Cacti can survive in a wide range of light conditions. However, we’ll assume the goal is not to have plants simply surviving, but thriving. For the plants to thrive the amount and intensity of light are key ingredients. There are three lighting situations that are not as ideal, but often times necessary due to space constraints. These are morning shade/full afternoon sun, full shade, and full sun. Let’s explore these conditions further. It may seem that shade in the morning and full-sun in the afternoon should produce the same results as full morning sun/afternoon shade, but it doesn’t. This is because the temperature is cooler in the morning than the afternoon and for many plants the afternoon sun is a little too intense and plants will often take on a sickly-yellow appearance and may develop spots. In full-sun these symptoms will be even more apparent. As with most things in nature there are exceptions and some plants actually prefer full-sun and thrive in it. In full shade the plants will don a dark-green healthy appearance, but the stems will be stretched out long and thin in an attempt to reach more light.
Not only is light essential for healthy stems, it also triggers blooming in many species. In ideal conditions a particular plant may exhibit fantastic growth with many show-quality stems, but they won’t bloom. In this situation exposing the plant to longer and more intense sunlight will trigger it to bloom. Don’t forget that plants can get sunburn just like people do. If you have a plant that has been mostly shaded, don’t just stick it out in direct sunlight or you will certainly end up with a badly scared cactus. This is even true for desert cacti that occur naturally in extremely hot, intense sunlight.
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