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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti are flowering plants, so every kind of cactus is capable of blooming when it is mature. Whether or not an individual cactus plant blooms depends on its age and the care it gets. Some cacti don’t bloom until they are more than 30 years old. Others won’t bloom, even if they are old enough, unless they get proper light conditions, watering and fertilization. This is especially true for potted cacti. Holiday Cacti grown indoors, such as Christmas Cactus, won’t bloom unless they get long nights and short days.
Columnar Cacti Tall-growing columnar cacti often take years before they bloom for the first time if grown from seed. If you root a branch from a mature, already-blooming columnar cactus, it will keep blooming after it is separated from the mother plant and rooted. However, some cacti, such as Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), native to Arizona in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, have branches that won’t root, so Saguaro has to be grown from seed, with a 40- to 55-year wait for the first flower. Some columnar cacti that produce flowers for the first time after 10 to 20 years and can live outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11 are Peruvian Apple (Cereus repandus) with blue stems and large white night-blooming flowers, Senita Cactus (Pachycereus schottii) with gray-green stems and small pink flowers produced amid an area of dense shaggy spines, and Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marginatus) with bright green stems that have white-defined stem ridges and smaller white flowers. Columnar cacti are effective landscaping plants even without flowers.
Short-stem Cacti Short-columnar cacti with mature stems below 2 feet (60 cm) tall usually flower within five years from germination. Hedgehog Cacti (Echinocereus spp.) are native to the United States and Mexico, and make mounding clumps of many stems over time. Large pink, magenta or red flowers are abundant in spring. Depending on the species, Hedgehog Cactus grows in USDA zones 5, for red-flowered short claret cup (Echinocereus coccineus), through 11. Easter Lily Cactus (Echinopsis oxygona and hybrids) are hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11. They produce huge funnel-shaped flowers in white, pink, lavender, magenta or red. For the size of the plant, Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) produces large flowers. Stems up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, covered with weak white spines, crawl along the ground and produce abundant bright orange flowers over 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in spring. Peanut Cactus grows outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Round Cacti Some of the most floriferous cacti belong here, such as Pincushion Cacti (Mammillaria spp. and hybrids) and Rebutias (Rebutia spp. and hybrids). They usually bloom within three to four years after sprouting. Pincushion Cacti are native to the United States and Mexico, producing star-shaped flowers in a ring around the top of the stem. Although round when young, some elongate to small columns. Flowers are white, pink, magenta, lavender, red, yellow or green, and plants grow outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 10. Rebutias are native to South America. Tidy low-growing plants cluster with age, and red, yellow, orange or purple flowers come from near the base of the stem. Rebutias are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Conditions that Encourage Bloom Since cacti grow as container plants in any USDA zone, give them proper care and they will reward you with blossoms. Most cacti need at least four hours of sunlight a day, preferably morning sunlight. Water them regularly during the growing season, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry before watering again until water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. Don’t let water remain in pot saucers. Use well-draining soilless potting mix. Fertilize them monthly from when they begin spring growth to the end of summer with a half-strength low-nitrogen high-phosphorus formula, which promotes bloom. Allow the cactus to become somewhat pot-bound for best bloom. Decrease watering in winter, and give your cacti a winter dormancy period with lower temperatures (50°F/10°C).
Holiday Cacti Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) look so different than desert cacti that some people are surprised that they are cacti. They look different because they grow on Brazilian rain forest trees as epiphytes, and their stems are flattened and green, looking leaf-like. They need different care than desert cacti. Holiday Cacti are triggered to bloom in fall and winter by cooling temperatures, increasing night length and decreasing day length with only 8 to 10 hours of light. Most of the year they prefer partial shade, but in fall and winter they can be in sunlight.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Dyckia is a genus of bromeliad found within the Pitcairnioideae subfamily of Bromeliads. There are 120 different species with many more cultivars. Most species are native to Brazil, but a few originate from other South American countries such as Uruguay, Paraguay and Bolivia. The genus was introduced into Europe during the nineteenth century, and was named for Prince von Salm-Dyck, an early expert on succulents. Dyckias are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves like true succulents. They are xerographic and survive long periods without water by going dormant. Their rosette of thick succulent leaves will eventually wilt, but recovery is rapid when watering is resumed.
The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste.
Growing Conditions Most of the plants survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90°F (32°C) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40°F (4°C) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
General Care While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lampranthus is a fairly large genus with 100-150 species coming from South Africa. It provides some of the most spectacular displays of bright flowers from the succulent world, and is widely used as ground cover, either annual or perennial as the climate allows. Several species are used for landscaping and vary from shrubby to trailing, and they also for the flowering period. All the species tend to become woody as they age.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches. The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species. Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods. Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years. For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Echeveria elegans, also known as Mexican Snowball is a dense, blue-gray succulent species from Mexico that mounds or spreads slowly in tight colonies. Edges of leaves are slightly pink, producing equally pretty small pink flowers with a yellow tinge. Very handsome and uniform in the garden. Mexican Snowball is aptly named for two reasons: the succulent rosettes are an icy blue color and this species is the hardiest of the Echeveria, a genus of succulents with their center of diversity in Mexico. The low-growing clusters are very suitable to fill rock crevices and are occasionally used to cover the roof tiles of a house‐top. A layer of rosettes stapled to the roof overhang is used to hold an inch of peaty soil to the roof. It is also used to form silvery blue small borders and are believed to keep away evil spirits.
Growing Conditions Light: Grow Echeveria elegans in full sun to light shade. Water: Water moderately when in growth; not at all when dormant. Temperature: More cold hardy than many other Echeverias, this one makes an excellent rock garden or container plant that needs occasional winter protection below 25°F (-4°C). Soil: Grow in well-drained soil. Fertilizer: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer 2 or 3 times in the growing season.
Grower’s Tips Mexican Snowball is certainly one of the most versatile neat, low-growing ground cover succulents. It is easy to care for and is a good starting point for beginning gardeners. It is considered to be drought tolerant but it does best with occasional watering in a well drained soil. This is typical of many Echeveria. They can be planted in full sun in coastal areas and they like some light shade when planted inland. Elsewhere grow as a houseplant in winter in a cool, bright window and keep dry until spring.
Propagation Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe or by root, stem or leaf cuttings in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are all the rage and with good reason. They are beautiful, interesting, and in most cases easy to care for. They are often used as decor both indoors and out. Succulents are living plants that require some care to survive and thrive, and while caring for them is not complex, knowing the basics will help you have the healthiest plants around. Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for: Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears; Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves. No pests on the leaves… …or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years. When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold. Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time! Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Calandrinia is a plant genus that contains many species of purslane, including the redmaids. The genus was named for Jean Louis Calandrini, an 18th-century Swiss botanist. It includes around 150 species of annual herbs which bear colorful flowers in shades of red to purple and white. Plants of this genus are native to Australia, Chile, and western North America.
Calandrinia are half hardy perennials and annuals. As the perennials have a short life span they are usually grown as half hardy annuals in the garden. They are low growing, reaching heights of about 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) and bloom with hundreds of bright pink and purple flowers from middle to late summer. Names for Calandrinia include Rock Purslane, Parakeelya and Redmaids. They are ideal, ground cover and edging plants, they can also be used in rockeries. Plants are able to grow in very hot conditions.
Growing Conditions and General Care Calandrinia plants are very easy to care for as they can tolerate prolonged dry periods. They do not like to much water, especially in the winter. Plants are able to grow as a short lived perennial in warm regions but should be grown as annuals elsewhere. Propagate by taking cuttings or allow plants to self seed in situ. If you plan to grow outdoors from seed then Calandrinia species should be sown at a depth of 0.1 inch (3 mm) after the last frost of spring. If you prefer to start off Calandrinia as seeds indoors then they should be started off about eight weeks before they are due to be put out.
They should be grown at a temperature of 55 to 59°F (13 to 15°C), and take from one to two weeks to germinate. The seedlings of Calandrinia should be planted out with a spacing of about 8 inches (20 cm) following the last possible frost of spring into an area that receives plenty of sun, and into a gritty or sandy soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Desert cacti are a challenge to get to bloom indoors, simply because we can’t provide as much light as a sun-drenched desert. In addition to light, two other important factors for blooming are:
Age: Some plants take years to mature. The best way to check this is to buy one that’s already blooming. Dormancy: Many desert cacti bloom in response to a cool, dry, dormant period. During the winter, you should reduce watering to only about once a month—just enough to keep the plant from shriveling up—and move your cactus to a cool spot, around 50°F (10°C), that has plenty of sunlight. Also, keep in mind these tips for year-round cactus care:
Indoor cacti do best in a sunroom or south-facing windowsill. They’ll receive the most sunlight, and the air around windows is generally cooler in winter than the interior of a room. During the growing season, your cactus needs maximum light and heat. Put your plant in direct sunlight, and turn it occasionally for even light exposure.
It will also need more water during the growing season. Allow the top 2 inch (5 cm) of soil to dry out before watering the plant thoroughly until it runs out the bottom (empty the drainage tray). Imagine a sudden desert rainstorm that soon dries in the sun, so never leave your plant in soggy soil. Fertilize cacti only in the spring and early summer, using a cactus-specific fertilizer or a highly diluted fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Overfeeding will not make your cactus bloom! Repot your cactus using a potting mix designed for cacti and succulents. Don’t water your cactus for a week after repotting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Matucana belongs to the family of Cactaceae and is a native of Peru, particularly of the Andean city of Matucana, from which it takes its name. The genus includes about 20 species currently spread throughout South America. The plants grow in the highlands of the Andes at above 2500 m of altitude. Sturdy, robust, the Matucana are quite popular among collectors for its ease of cultivation.
Matucana is characterized by bright green plants, sized small and medium, both globular and cylindrical, with numerous ribs segmented into dense spines and tubercles. The bloom is apical and flowers, usually appearing in late spring or summer, are elongated and tubular. They hatch at night and lasts from 2 to 4 days, offering a wide variety of colors, from white to red, yellow and bright orange.
Growing Conditions and General Care All species are sensitive to moisture. Watering should therefore be limited to the growing season and should be made only when the substrate is completely dry. It must be suspended during the winter. Since they tend to lose their roots in cold and wet, these plants must be kept warm even in winter. A temperature not under 50°F (10°C) is suitable. Some species, for natural adaptation, can resist at temperatures below 32°F (0°C). If the plants are in the vegetative stage and optimal environmental conditions (a low moisture content with substantial temperature swing between day and night is appreciated), the growth is quite fast and you can get blooms already after 2-3 years after birth. Matucana must be grown in a very porous and draining soil. It can be composed largely by sand, lapilli and gravel. To encourage the development of a dense network of spine, the quality of the nutrients in the substrate is very important. The soil must be rich in potassium, poor in nitrogen. Since the roots are very delicate and subject to rot, the soil should be kept as dry as possible: do not forget that in their natural environment these plants grow in steep and inaccessible places. Matucana like dry, fresh and light air. A direct exposure to sunlight is appropriated, but too high temperatures (above 90°F/32°C), very different from those of their original environment, may damage them. In these cases it is best to filter the sun’s rays or prefer a bright area anyway, but at least partially shaded.
Propagation Propagation is easy by seed, sowing should preferably be done in the spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Zamioculcas zamiifolia also known as ZZ Plant thrives well in USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9b through 11, and won’t tolerate so much as a hint of frost. The ZZ Plant is an ancient one whose prehistoric appearance may remind you of a cycad, though they aren’t related. Tough, drought resistant and low-light tolerant, this undemanding beauty may be the perfect plant for the forgetful or neglectful gardener. Gardeners who don’t water often are the ones this plant loves best.
1. Remove the ZZ Plant with yellowing leaves from its pot to rescue it. The discoloration is typically caused from too much water, which causes the water and food storing rhizomes to rot from fungal development. This so-called “eternal plant” will die from overwatering. 2. Shake as much soil from the root ball as you can. Discard it, don’t reuse it or add it to the compost heap as it’s probably infected with fungus. Set the plant on several layers of newspaper and examine the roots. You will probably find some soft, mushy roots and possibly rotting tubers as well. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, clip any diseased tissue that you see and discard it. 3. Pick any yellowing leaves off the ZZ Plant. If the stem is yellow, clip it off where it grows from the tuber. Check the tuber closely for signs of rot. Prune it out if it appears diseased. 4. Drench the roots and tubers with a fungicidal solution such as thiophanate-methyl. Follow the packaging instructions carefully.
5. Scrub the pot with hot, soapy water. Soak it in a solution of 9 parts water and 1 part bleach for 30 minutes. Rinse it thoroughly. 6. Combine equal parts cactus potting mix and perlite for an excellent ZZ Plant growing medium. Repot the plant, move it to a warm room with low lighting and withhold water for about a week to allow it to recover. ZZ Plants bounce back quickly from adversity and new shoots will soon emerge. 7. Return the ZZ Plant to its normal spot after a week of rest. This plant will do best with as much bright, indirect light as you can provide. While it will do well even in low light, more is better. Keep the temperature between 76 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (24 and 32 degrees Celsius), with a range of between 80 and 87 degrees Fahrenheit (27 and 30 degrees Celsius) being optimum. Temperatures below 76 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius) will inhibit the plant’s growth. 8. Water your ZZ Plant thoroughly to evenly moisten the soil surface throughout the growing season. Allow the plant to dry out slightly between waterings. Water again when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. Water no more than once weekly during the winter. Do not allow it to stand in water.
9. Feed this plant a balanced water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two months while it is actively growing. 10. Set the ZZ Plant outdoors in a shady spot in the summer. It will appreciate the bright natural light and fresh air.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Dummer. ゛☀
Espostoa is a genus of columnar cacti, comprising 16 species known from the Andes of southern Ecuador and Peru. It usually lives at an altitude of between 2625 and 8200 feet (800 and 2500 m). Its fruit is edible, sweet, and juicy. The genus is named after Nicolas E. Esposto, a renowned botanist from Lima. Espostoa are columnar cacti that mostly branch at the base to form a series of stems reminiscent of a big city skyline. The most notable feature of Espostoa is presence in most species of dense, white “hair” which quite dramatically covers the stems giving them a soft, fuzzy appearance. This is just an illusion however, as underneath the soft hairs are numerous sharp spines arranged on many small ribs which circle the columns. In some species the main central spine extends well past the hair making their threatening presence obvious.
Another trait of Espostoa that is seen in sexually mature stems is the flower-bearing lateral cephalium. This is an area along the sides of the stems that produce and especially dense wool and/or bristles out of which the flowers are produced. These structures are brown or gray or white and look as if something was smeared along one side of the stem. The flowers produced are cup or bell shaped and are typically 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) in diameter. Flowers are mostly white or rarely reddish and nocturnal.
Growing Conditions and General Care Several species of Espostoa, are especially popular in cultivation due to their fuzzy white hairy appearance. The plants are typically sold by large commercial growers as up to 12 inch (30 cm) stems. However, being large columnar species, these plants do not grow nearly as vigorously in pots as they would in the ground. Plants tend to quickly fill the pots becoming pot bound and then growth slows to a crawl. As such, these plants rarely, if ever reach maturity meaning they don’t produce the cephalium and subsequently do not flower. On the other hand, those in warmer climates that can plant the species directly in the ground may indeed have plants that form a nice grouping of stems that will eventually flower. Like all cacti, Espostoa requires a sunny location and well-drained soil. But in summer, it appreciates fertilizer and wetter conditions. In winter, it needs a rest, but the temperature must not drop below 54°F (12°C). They are appreciated for their decorative qualities due to their white fleece.
Propagation Espostoa can be successfully propagated by both vegetative cuttings and from seed. The seeds are quite easy to germinate and grow. Their main requirements consist of high humidity levels, free-draining soil mix, and enough water, light, and nutrition.
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