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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulent plants are grown primarily for the structure of their water-storing stems, leaves or roots, which give lasting interest. Flowers are a wonderful bonus, but often succulents are shy to bloom, especially if they are indoor container plants. Find out what conditions prevail in the plants’ natural habitat to get clues about what growth conditions and seasonal cycles they need. Supplying winter cold, summer heat, fertilizer or more intense light may be all that’s needed for successful flowering.
Temperature Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight.
This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water. Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten.
Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Frailea are very small cacti that rarely reach 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. The plants are native Brazil. These little cacti are quite interesting in their form but their life cycle is even more surprising. There are several species of this genus available for home growers, but the plants are considered threatened in their native habitat.
Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Fraileas make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture. Growing Fraileas is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing.
The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed.
If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
In general, all succulents do best in sun at least part of the day sun; many will get leggy and weak and refuse to flower without at least six hours; some actually get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun.
However, some will fade, spot, or even scorch in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage. Succulents are able to survive dry conditions for a long time, and usually go dormant in the winter. But in the growing season they will grow and flower better with regular watering; most, especially those grown in containers, will need watering at least every couple of weeks in very hot seasons.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, with those grown in shade needing even less. This makes container-grown succulents even better for growing under dry porches or indoor windowsills. Garden soils and potting soils for containers should hold moisture but allow excess water to drain quickly; even ready-made cactus mixes usually need a little help. Till in a little compost and coarse sand to native garden dirt, at least 6 or 8 inches (15 or 20 cm) deep. And to both it and container potting soils add extra drainage material such as pumice, grit, or expanded clay soil amendments, which look like kitty litter and are used by professional turf managers to loosen soils.
Fertilize succulents in the spring or during flowering with a good low-nitrogen plant food, used at just half strength, and none at all in the winter. Good Succulents for Shade Some of the most beloved succulents which tolerate lower light outdoors and bright but indirect light indoors include Aloe vera, Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), Devil’s Backbone (Euphorbia tithymaloides), the many different kinds of Sansevieria, and Florist Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana).
Good vine-like or cascading succulents for shade include Wax Plant (Hoya), Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum), Mistletoe Cactus (Rhipsalis), String of Pearls (Curio rowleyanus), String of Hearts or Rosary Vine (Ceropegia woodii), Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera), Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), and Night Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum). For a better overall plant scene in shaded areas, be sure to accent these with other shade-loving but low-maintenance plants with dependable flowers or brighter or variegated foliage or flowers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gardeners with shaded landscapes can still enjoy the exotic shapes and colors of succulents – to a point. Though most succulents prefer very bright light, even several or more hours of direct sun, some will burn quite easily if exposed to hot sun all day, especially when temperatures stay above the lower 90°F (32°C). Yet where light is too intense to grow them out in full sun, quite a few have been grown for many years indoors, on covered patios, under porch roofs, and beneath trees.
Succulents are unique but commonly-grown plants which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons of their native lands. They come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often have unique frills and bristles.
Because many are very easy to propagate and share with other gardeners, and tolerate the typically low light and low humidity of indoors, lot of old “passalong” plants have proven themselves as low light succulents. Who hasn’t seen an old Mother-in-Law Tongue, Christmas Cactus, Night Blooming Cereus, Pencil Plant, or Jade Bush that was part of a gift basket plant combo, that outlived the original pot, set on a kitchen windowsill?
There are several which do better in light shade during hot summers, including the Fairy Crassula (Crassula multicava) in mild-winter areas, and the more cold-tolerant Stonecrops (Sedum). Others are best grown as container plants set in shade and moved as needed for protection from winter cold or excess rainfall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Common Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), also known as Hens and Chicks, are low growing evergreen succulent plants that look a little like rubbery roses. They are considered alpine or rock garden plants, because of their hardiness and drought resistance. The original rosette, the “Hen” produces tiny rosette offsets that are known as the “Chicks”.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever. Growing Conditions Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil. Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing. Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5. Growing Tips Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets. Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring. Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time. Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti and succulents are relatively pest-free plants, but, like any others, they occasionally fall prey to typical greenhouse pests like mealybug, scale, mites and white fly. Don’t worry. Plants and pests go hand-in-hand. You’ll constantly be bringing pests home with new plants and no matter what you do, you’ll NEVER be completely free of them. The goal is control. Thankfully there are some simple, relatively toxin-free ways to help deal with the little nasties.
Mealybug Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home. These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible. Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants. Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it! Scale After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell. Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind). Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life. Seasonal Dormancy Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The common name white mold typically refers to Sclerotinia stem rot that mainly affects field crops. It’s a common problem for soybean farmers and can take years to eradicate from farm soils. If you have white mold on your succulent, you’re more likely dealing with powdery mildew — a common houseplant ailment that’s easy to treat. It looks like a white, powdery mold and can live on both stems and fleshy leaves of succulents.
Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew likes the same type of habitat that succulents like: warm, relatively dry areas. Because succulents and powdery mildew thrive in similar living conditions, succulents are the most infected types of plants, according to the University of Rhode Island GreenShare website. Your infection may just look like the classic white, powdery coating. It can also take on a gray appearance with round yellow, brown or black growths. The mildew can appear in just one spot, but more commonly, it spreads to other leaves, stems and buds of your plant.
Effects At first, powdery mildew may seem harmless. Your succulent may be able to live with white, moldy-looking disease, and even thrive, for some time. As the infection spreads and gets worse, you may notice deflated, damaged or deformed leaves. Leaves and stems may also turn pale green and then yellow. If your succulent has a severe infection, it may lose leaves, fail to flower or even die. Once one of your plants has powdery mildew, the infection can spread to others.
Treatment To treat powdery mildew, gently remove any infected leaves and stems that have begun to show signs of damage and then apply a fungicide. Fungicides containing sulfur, neem oil or triforine may be effective at killing powdery mildew on healthy leaves, stems and buds. Also apply the fungicide to nearby plants as a preventative measure. Some gardeners have reported success with baking soda mixed with horticultural oil; however, this treatment hasn’t been widely studied.
Prevention Separate your infected plants from your healthy plants if possible. Next, work to increase air circulation, recommends Colorado State University Extension, to help slow spore production. Do this by selectively pruning plants, moving them to windier locations or using fans to circulate more air in your home. Spores need some level of humidity, so switching to early morning watering and bottom watering can help slow or prevent powdery mildew spread.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents, which include the fleshy-leaved plants we often associate with that name, as well as cacti, respond to many environmental stressors by stopping growing and dropping leaves, reducing their energy needs. Heat, frost, low or high light, improper watering and chemical shock can all cause leaf drop, often quite suddenly.
Temperature Trouble Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
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