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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti and succulents can safely be sent through the mail but if you are mailing plants from one country to another, you should contact the Plant Protection Division of the Department of Agriculture for their country to find out what the guidelines are about what plants you are allowed to mail and where you can mail them. The purpose of this article is only to tell you how to mail them.
People who have been growers of non succulent plants may not be aware that succulent plants including cacti can be successfully mailed from one person to another and an entire collection can be packed and moved along with household belongings if you are moving your home from one place to another. The unique thing about cacti and succulents is their ability to survive without any moisture for reasonable periods of time. They are therefore ideally suited to mailing or transporting either with their roots or without their roots.
Here’s how to proceed. 1. Shake all soil off the roots of the plants being careful to break as few roots as possible. Don’t worry if a few roots are broken. That won’t kill the plants. It is much easier to remove the soil if it is dried out. Don’t try to remove the soil after you water the plants! 2. Any plants that are in full growth and seem rather too juicy or turgid are safer allowed to dry out for a few days without water which will harden the growth and then they will be less likely to bruise or rot.
3. You can trim back excessive roots if you like, again with no damage to the plant. 4. Make sure the plant and roots are very dry. Succulents travel more safely if the roots are dry. And most important, there will be less weight to pay postage on! And these days heaven knows anything saved on postage is a bonus. 5. Prepare a label for each plant with the name of the plant on it. 6. Wrap each plant in soft paper – with the label with the name of the plant on it. If it is a delicate plant use soft kitchen towelling. If a stronger plant you can use newspaper. If lots of spines, use two or three layers of newspaper. I like to put a note on such plants to be careful when opening so people don’t stab themselves when opening the parcel.
7. A little different procedure is needed for a few plants such as Epiphytes, Orchid Cacti or Christmas Cactus. If they have roots, they do not do as well if left dry for too long. Use a small plastic bag containing a pinch of damp peat moss and wrap it around the roots only and secure with a rubber band. Actually it is better to send dry cuttings of these than to send cuttings with roots. If there are no roots you don’t need to worry about moisture-just wrap them dry. 8. An important safeguard for succulents sent through the mail is a strong, light weight box. The best type of box is one made of corrugated cardboard. Try your hardware store, garage, drugstore or the grocery store where you will often find these and they are usually free. If the box is too big, it is not difficult to make a smaller box out of a larger corrugated one. Just crease the folds with the back of a knife or ruler, cutting off excess where necessary.
DO NOT use cereal boxes, shoe boxes and the like and expect your package and plants to arrive uncrushed!! Remember your parcel can go hurtling along conveyor belts and down long chutes landing in huge piles with heavier packages on top of yours. Parcels have to withstand much battering as it goes through the post office. If you don’t wrap it right, it will fall apart. You could, however, use those flimsy types of boxes inside the box you are mailing to contain and separate some plants from others if you are packing quite a few. I find them handy for plants with really vicious spines which insist on piercing all sorts of paper but which are quite protected in a box within the box.
9. Pack sufficient extra paper (shredded paper or crumpled newspaper is good) around the individually wrapped plants in your box so they won’t shake around. Fill in also any empty spaces when all plants are put in the box. It is very important that the plants or cuttings do not move around in the box or they will damage each other. 10. Seal the box tightly with proper tape made for wrapping parcels. Ordinary scotch tape won’t hold! Do not use string or twine or cord. They are not allowed by the post office (at least in Canada). There is no need to wrap the box again in paper. If the box has been in the mail before and there are addresses or other notations on it, strike these out boldly with a marking pen.
11. Prepare three labels. Two for the outside of the box – top and bottom and one to go inside, just in case anything happens to badly damage the outside of the box. Either print out a label on your printer or print by hand – your address in the upper left hand corner. The address of the person you are sending it to in the middle further down. And make sure postal codes are shown for both addresses. 12. Write on all three labels in large letters at the bottom P E R I S H A B L E.
13. One final tip. If you send your plant parcels by regular parcel post which is the cheapest parcel rate available .. and spend and extra 50 cents or a dollar to insure the parcel with the post office, you will find that it goes through the post office very fast. They do not want insured mail to get lost so priority is given to getting it there. There is no point paying for what is now very expensive first class mail if you do it the insurance way and save many dollars in the process. And please note parcels sent by parcel services will often take much longer to arrive than those sent through the post office, especially if they are going outside your country.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Myrtillocactus is a genus of cacti found from Mexico to Guatemala. The genus is best known with Myrtillocactus geometrizans. The largest plants in this genus can grow up to 16.5 feet (5 m) tall. Myrtillocactus tends to flower in the summer. After the greenish white flowers, this cactus will produce blue berries, hence the nickname Blueberry Cactus, which are eaten as a snack in Mexico.
Growing Conditions Temperature: They are semi hardy, make sure that your Myrtillocactus are not exposed to temperatures below 25°F (-4°C) or they may die, nevertheless it is a good advice never let the nighttime’s temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C). Light: In the summer place Myrtillocactus in the sunshine (indoors or outdoors). In the winter find a cooler, light spot. That will allow it to go into next spring well-rested, which will make it more likely to flower.
Water: This easy-care plant doesn’t want a lot of water. Allow the soil to dry out before you give it another drink. Keep the soil completely dry in winter. Soil: Very free draining open compost. Fertilizer: Treat it to special cactus food once a month in the spring and summer. Repotting If the plant needs repotting, use a fairly impoverished soil specially designed for cacti.
Propagation By seed or cutting (allow the cut surface to dry out for 2-3 weeks before placing in an open rooting media). The cuttings, which will grow quickly, from this cactus must be taken when the temperature is high enough or the cuttings won’t root.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
When you receive a box of succulents you should open it at once. Not that you won’t! You will be eager to see the contents. The plants will be in immediate need of air and light. Be careful that the light is not too strong for a few days. Avoid putting them in sunshine. Remember that the plants are succulent, have evolved to resist evaporation from leaves or bodies and will not wilt like ordinary plants. Light and air are more urgent immediate considerations than water.
Put the plants in a warm, bright place for a day or two and you can, if you wish, pot them up at once in slightly moist potting compost A light spraying now and then may help if the weather is hot and dry but avoid this in cold or damp weather. Let indications of fresh growth guide when to begin normal watering as well as weather conditions and the size and type of plant. Remember that cuttings without roots will not take water up without roots.
For cacti cuttings without roots, larger cacti have more reserves of their own to draw on and will not likely make roots as soon as young, small ones. It is wise to plant these rootless larger plants in extremely porous gritty compost which will dry out within a few hours of watering. Or you can put a little water in the pot saucer now and again which will be taken up into the soil in the lower half of the pot so that when roots form they go down looking for that moisture. In the meantime they are not sitting in soaking wet soil and tending to rot.
For plants with roots, just pot up in moist soil and watch for signs of life before you start a regular watering program. Move the plants or cuttings gradually into the light they need, some eventually into full sunshine. If you don’t know if the plants need full sunshine, keep them in a very bright place out of full sunshine until you find out what light each plant needs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Yet another wildflower favorite and must have for the garden is the Tradescantia (Spiderwort) plant. These interesting flowers not only offer something different to the landscape but are extremely easy to grow and care for.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety. Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered. If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth. Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground. Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) sports a medium-green, furrowed trunk with gray spikes. Saguaro Cacti grow very slowly and have a mature height of up to 50 feet (15 m). These cacti make a bold statement in the landscape with their stiff arms and coarse texture. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness plant zones 9 and 10, Saguaro Cacti require full sunlight and extremely fast-draining soil. Planting a young nursery-grown specimen, 3 feet (90 cm) or less in height, is the best way to introduce one of these succulents into your yard. Raising a Saguaro Cactus is extremely easy, as they requiring only infrequent supplemental watering after planting.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil. 2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing. 4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth. 6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you are fighting your Aloe vera plant for flowers, you are not alone. Most people struggle to get their Aloe vera plants to bloom when growing them indoors. But their usual yellow or orange tubular flowers, grown high on long, elegant stems, are a rare sighting in households due to the inadequate sunlight they receive.
Aloe vera plants are built for the desert climate of Africa, where they receive large amounts of direct sunlight for a majority of the day. This large dose of bright light that Aloe veras are accustomed to does not translate smoothly to a household setting, where the location of the house and the plant may limit the amount of sunlight that reaches the plant.
Adjusting the Indoor Placement of Your Aloe Vera Plant Due to the natural environment of the Aloe vera, the main trick is to give your houseplant as much light as possible. Indoor placement is key. Typically sitting on kitchen windowsills, the Aloe vera plant does not receive the sunlight it is used to or needs when raised indoors. You want to place your plant on a windowsill that receives a lot of direct sunlight, with nothing obstructing the plant’s line of sunlight or keeping it in the shade. At certain points in the day, some areas of your house also receive more light than others. Therefore, it is best to change the location of your plant throughout the day, allowing for it to follow the sun. The more exposure to sunlight, the better. During the summer months, you can also move your plant outside, as it is no longer in danger of freezing and an outdoor environment nicely mimics the high-sunlight desert conditions it needs to bloom.
Other Tricks for Getting Your Resistant Aloe to Bloom: 1. Wait for your Aloe Plant to Mature You may be expecting too much from your newborn plant. Aloe veras tend to bloom only once they have reached maturity–a stage in their life that takes approximately 4 years to reach. If you have just begun caring for your plant, it is simply not ready. Have patience, and while you are waiting, take proper care of your Aloe vera by giving it the sunlight, water, and soil it needs to reach old age and bloom. 2. Know When To Expect Aloe Vera Flowers Aloe vera plants do not have flowers year-round. They usually bloom annually in the early springtime, so time your expectations correctly. If you are concerned why your plant has no signs of buds in the winter, that is just because the timing is not yet right.
3. Fertilize or Repot Your Plant A healthy Aloe vera plant is more likely to produce the bright flowers you are looking for. To be healthy, an Aloe vera needs soil that can provides it with adequate nutrients. By either giving your plant fertilizer to replenish the old soil’s vitamins and minerals or repotting it to give it new soil and a new supply of nutrients, you can keep your plant healthy and watch it grow.
Another way to encourage Aloe vera plants to bloom is by propagating them. The Aloe vera plant has bulbs that grow off of the main plant; you can and should remove them if you want a flowering plant. By taking away the additional bulbs, you give the main plant more energy to put into producing those tall, beautiful flowers. If you succeed in getting your Aloe vera plant to bloom indoors, congratulations! Enjoy the rare beauty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The ZZ Plant gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to ZZ.
ZZ Plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ Plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ Plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ Plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright light is good but not essential. The ZZ Plant grows fine with low levels of light, but it’s best to avoid direct sunlight. Water: Allow the soil to become dry at the top to the touch between watering and do not over water. It’s best to water this plant less than too much because over-watering can cause stem and rhizome rot. Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots, 46°F (8°C) if grafted. Soil: Most well draining potting mixes will suffice that contains a high amount of perlite or sand within the mix (you can add more perlite or sand if needed to a mix that is bought). Good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot is essential.
Repotting I would repot the ZZ Plant once a year at the beginning of spring, especially during the first 3 – 5 years – whilst it’s growing up. Pruning Cut away leaflets that are turning yellow near the base of a stem. Once a stem has grown much longer than all other stems you can remove that stem or cut it to size at the tip. The problem with cutting it to size at the tip is it can look quite odd, so removing it completely might be the best option.
Propagation You may propagate by dividing rhizomes or with leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings have to be placed in a pot with a plastic covering and then the wait for roots to begin growing, which could take up to a year. Grower’s Tips ZZ Plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ Plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ Plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ Plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly.
ZZ Plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
What do you do when you have to move your place of residence for a considerable distance to another part of the country or even out of the country and have to move your entire succulent collection with you?
1. Apart from the question of how to move the succulents themselves, if you are moving to another country, it is important that you know there may be plant quarantine and inspection regulations that you should investigate and your Department of Agriculture is the place to direct your inquiries. 2. If the plants are to be inspected, it is wise prior to having that done to thoroughly soak the soil and dip all plants in an insecticide solution. This should be done long enough before moving to allow time for a couple of normal waterings to leach out the excess (and the smell to hopefully disappear) and then time for the soil to dry out thoroughly. In any event, before you attempt to pack your plants for moving, the soil in the pots should have time to thoroughly dry out.
3. If there are no restrictions about moving your succulents in their pots, soil and all, you can wrap each plant, pot and soil in two or more layers of newspaper and pack them, right side up, into cartons provided by the movers. Large plants on the bottom, progressively smaller and lighter ones on top. 4. Even if shipped bareroot (no pots and soil removed), plants need a thorough drying out period before packing, to induce a state of partial dormancy so that they would not etiolate (lengthen and grow out of shape) and otherwise suffer from the time they are confined in wrappings, in a box and in the dark.
5. Most movers charge by weight as well as distance. If you have a very large collection and weight is a factor in the cost of shipping, you are better to move your succulents bare root with all soil removed. However, you would then be faced with the task of reporting the collection on arrival, on top of all the other chores of becoming settled in a new home. Succulents are wonderfully patient though and on arrival, if you can just manage to get them unwrapped and into the air and light, they will wait a few days until you can pot them up. 6. On each box of succulents ready for moving, affix a large piece of white paper and with a heavy hand and a marking pen write PLANTS – PERISHABLE on each box.
7. You must discuss with your mover the importance of packing your plants properly. If you don’t explain that you are moving perishable plants they could be packed on the bottom of the van with all your furniture on top of them!! Sometimes moving vans move the contents of more than one home in their vans. In this case it is all the more important to arrange with your mover not to put your plants under everything else in the truck.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights. Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray. Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix. Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season. Repotting Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Zones Hardy succulents are hardy zone 3-9 unless otherwise labeled. Plants shipped in early spring are dormant. They will appear dull in color and have some dry edges. This is normal and when placed in sunlight they will intensify in color. Sempervivums change color with the seasons and each variety has its own most colorful time of the year.
Light Most varieties need at least half a day to a full day of sunlight. In extremely hot areas some afternoon shade is recommended. Planting Remove plants from their pots and plant making sure the soil level remains the same depth on the plant. Once established, your succulents will benefit from a layer of pebbles or pea gravel spread on the soil around the plant. This is also very decorative.
Soil Succulents need good draining soil. When planting in the garden, make sure the area drains well and is not in a low spot that would stay wet. For container planting you can purchase cactus soil or incorporate sand, gravel or volcanic rock for better drainage. The container you are planting in should have a drainage hole or put crushed rock on the bottom before your planting medium. Watering After planting, water in well and allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Succulents don’t like to have wet feet. When you do water, water thoroughly.
Fertilizer Most succulents need very little fertilizer. Watering with a well balanced fertilizer once a month will be all they need. Flowering Sedum all have different bloom times and colors ranging from pink, red and yellow. Sempervivums will bloom after the second or third year. A flower stalk will shoot up from the center of the main rosette with a cluster of flowers. After the flower dies, gently twist off the stalk. The main rosette has put on new offsets that will fill in.
Uses The planting possibilities using succulents are endless. The different colors, textures and habits make the most interesting containers and troughs. Succulents make beautiful rock garden plants. With a wide variety of bloom times there is always something with color.
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