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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Edithcolea is a monotypic genus with a single species Edithcolea grandis, also known as Persian Carpet Flower. The genus is named after Miss Edith Cole (1859-1940). She collected the type material for this plant together with Mrs. Lort Philips in 1895, during a botanical expedition (1894-1895) led by Mr. Ethelbert Edward Lort Phillips (1857-1944) from Berbera to the Golis mountains in northern Somalia. Persian Carpet Flower is a succulent plant with remarkable flower, at times described as the Persian carpet flower. The carrion-like smell of the flowers attracts flies and other insects for pollination. Edithcolea grandis is occasionally cultivated as an ornamental in desert gardens worldwide. It has a gained a reputation as a particularly difficult plant to keep because of its very specific growing needs with much light and relatively high (above 60 °F / 15 °C) winter temperatures. It’s very susceptible to rot in combination with low temperatures. The stem of Persian Carpet Flower is eaten as a vegetable in Ethiopia and Somalia.
Growing Conditions Light: Partial sun or light shade. Water: It require moderately watering through the growing season but enjoy plenty of water and some fertilizer in hot weather and allow them to dry before watering again. This helps them to flower freely. Water sparingly in winter according to temperatures. But, as with most asclepiads, it is unwise to leave them wet in cold weather. Temperature: Winter care presents no problems at 60 °F (15° C) with plenty of light. Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a succulent mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering.
Propagation Easiest with stem cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry a day before planting. Stems must be laid (not buried) on gritty compost and will then root from the underside of the stems. It can also be increased from seeds sowing in spring in moist, sandy peat moss.
Repotting Re-pot every 2 years.
Pests and diseases They are very susceptible to stem and root mealy bugs, and damage from these may well initiate fungal attack. If you do have problems with a stem or with basal rotting, you can reliably isolate the healthy parts, dry them off, and re-root them in moist compost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Adromischus is a genus of at least 28 species of small clumping leaf succulents from South Africa. Prior to revision of the genus by Tölken a larger number of species were recognised. Many of these older names are currently regarded as synonymous with a range of forms combined into a smaller number of somewhat variable species. Adromischus marianae is particularly variable across its range, reflecting combination of plants with markedly different appearance into a single species. Some natural hybrids are known.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones. Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Dinteranthus are a group of stemless succulents from the Cape Province in South Africa, close to the Orange river where they get mostly summer rain. They are mesembs, and resemble those genera within the Aizoaceae family to which they are most closely related; namely Lithops, Lapidaria and Schwantesia, although they require even less water and have a distinctive keel along the lower leaf surface. They are named for the professor K. Dinter, Dinteranthus meaning “Dinter’s Flower”.
The leaf pairs are separated by a deep cleft from which the flower arises. The plants are popular among collectors. Dinteranthus need excellent drainage and a good deal of light. They should be treated like Lithops, though they require less water. They have yellow flowers in the fall. After they bloom, a new pair of leaves develop, used the moisture from the older pair of leaves to grow. The plants should not be watered until the old pair of leaves is totally shriveled. They will take a small amount of frost.
Growing Conditions and General Care Adult plants of this genus behave like Lithops: summer expansion leading to flowering in fall, followed by a slow transfer of resources in winter; the main difference is that the presence of two active leaf-pairs is not unusual in some Dinteranthus. Dinteranthus require slightly less water than do most Lithops. Excellent drainage is essential, as all Dinteranthus are somewhat prone to rot, Dinteranthus microspermus subsp. puberulus being the most resistant of the six taxa. Their nutritive requirements are amazingly modest and the root systems of even the healthiest plants are minuscule. What they need most critically is good light, which will give them a bone-white aspect. Older long-stemmed plants can and usually should be turned into cuttings and re-rooted.
Propagation The real trouble with Dinteranthus is that the seedlings are so tiny that they are apt to damp off. But if the following rules are observed, success is likely. Sow in high summer; use sterilized soil with extra grit and enough peat to ensure high acidity; do not cover the seeds. Place the sown pot in a water bath, cover the whole assemblage with clear plastic and place it outdoors in a bright spot. Wait three full days, remove the pots to your usual place of germination and mist them at least twice a day. Seedlings should be evident within twelve days of sowing; they are extremely small at first and resemble green crystalline raspberries. The object is to induce them to grow as rapidly as possible. If this takes daily mist-feeding, then do it. By mid-autumn the cotyledons should turn greyish-white from a calcium deposition which strengthens them. After this whitening the fissure walls part and the true leaves are visible through the resultant peephole. Thereafter you are home free: treat the seedlings like young Lithops. Delay transplanting until the second set of true leaves is fully formed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Faucaria is a genus of succulent subtropical plants of the family Aizoaceae. The species are collectively known as “Tiger Jaws”. This refers to the spiny looking edges of the leaves. The name comes from the Latin word “fauces” (= animal mouth) because of the appearance of leaves. The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot. Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall. They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink. Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly. All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves. As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens. No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents: Light Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer. Temperature Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering: Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant. Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Summer can be an ideal season in many of our gardens. However, even the hardiest, drought tolerant plants – including succulents – will benefit greatly from a small amount of added care in the hot days ahead. Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week. Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container. Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water. If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed. If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site. Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area. Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too. Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days. Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush. Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry. “Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best. Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Are you dreaming about adding some window boxes to your home, but lack the time and patience to pamper persnickety flowers? In the last few years, succulents of every shape and size have made their way into gardens and homes across the country, with a few setting roots in window boxes on the shady sides of homes. If you’re looking for a low-care option for your window boxes, succulents may be the answer. These plants offer interesting textures for your inner designer to mix into endless combinations and the occasional flower stalks for an unexpected splash of color.
Growing Succulents in Containers Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents. Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes. Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Alluaudia is a genus of flowering plants in the family Didiereaceae. There are six species, all endemic to Madagascar. Most occur in the southwestern subarid forest-thicket vegetation of the island.
Several of the species are grown as indoor ornamental plants in specialist succulent collections. Spines are arranged around the leaves as a defense against herbivores. The development of these plants is columnar, they grow aiming high with a scarce lateral development. This plants in the autumn assumes a green colouring.
Growing Conditions and General Care Alluaudias are succulent plants and need full sun or high interior lighting with a very well drained soil mix and freely circulating air. Plants are watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. If fertilizer is used, it should be diluted to ¼ the recommended rate on the label. Alluaudias must be protected in the greenhouse over the winter but established plants should tolerate temperatures as low as 32° F (0° C). During the winter months, the plants will drop all of its leaves and no water should be given during this period. If planted in the landscape however, it will often drop all its leaves when it decides to take a rest. When this happens, cut down on the watering until the leaves start to appear again.
Propagation Alluaudias are propagated from cuttings taken in the spring or from seed when available.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aloinopsis is a genus of ice plants. They occurs mostly in the Eastern and Western Cape Provinces of South Africa, extending slightly into the southern part of the Northern Cape Province. One species is found in the northeastern corner of the Northern Cape Province. Rainfall is sparse throughout the range. Many species have rough-surfaced, spoon-shaped leaves that grow in small rosettes. The roots are thick and the flowers are often striped with red. Aloinopsis are sometimes confused with Titanopsis, but the genus Titanopsis lack striped flowers. Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark. Growing Conditions Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer. Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot. Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius). Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. Propagation Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division. Pests and Problems Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot. Grower’s Tips Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
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