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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are few plants more forgiving of sun and bad soil than Sedum plants. Growing them is easy, so easy, in fact, that even the most novice gardener can excel at it. With a large number of varieties to choose from, you will find one that works for your garden.
How to Grow Sedum When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone. Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Houseplant enthusiasts are looking continually for different and more exotic specimens for their collections. Fortunately, beginners and experts can find many good choices among the cacti and succulents.
The term succulent refers to a broad, loose category of plants, including cacti, which have developed thick fleshy leaves or stems. These serve as water storage organs to insure survival under arid conditions. Succulents are found worldwide. Besides cacti, they include many familiar plants: the Jade Plant (Crassula arborescens), the Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), the Medicine Plant (Aloe vera), the Century Plant (Agave americana), the flowering Kalanchoes (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) sold as gift plants as well as the Sedums (Sedum sp.), and Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum sp.) so common in the perennial garden.
The cactus family has nearly 2,000 species, and with one exception all are native to the Americas. They range from the Arctic Circle to the mountains of Chile, but are most abundant in southwestern United States and Mexico. Cacti can be tall and lanky or squat and spherical, frequently without any branches and almost always without leaves. These shapes result in a large proportion of internal tissue to external surface area which reduces the amount of moisture that is lost through the plant itself. They often have scale or spines ranging from microscopically small to wickedly large and barbed. These protect against predators and are thought to aid the plant in withstanding hot drying rays of the sun.
Many cacti and succulents are extremely well adapted to living in houses where the relative humidity is low (10-30 percent). They require only modest amounts of water and fertilizer, but do need abundant light. They should be placed in a bright, sunny window. Insufficient natural light can be augmented by artificial lighting. A cool white fluorescent tube, or a combination of daylight and natural white fluorescent tubes will give good results. Position them 6-12 inches above the plants, and keep them on for 14-16 hours each day.
In nature, most cacti and succulents are found growing in open, well-drained sandy soil. These conditions should be duplicated indoors. A mix of one part potting soil and one part coarse sand is usually porous enough. A good test is to moisten the mixture and squeeze it in your hand. On release, the soil should fall apart. Both pot and growing medium should be sterile. Ideally, these plants should be grown in pots with drainage holes because excess water trapped in the soil will result in rotting and decay in a very short time.
During the low-light winter months, cacti and succulents should be watered only enough to prevent shrinking and withering. When watering, do it thoroughly. Water should flow through the drain holes, and the excess should be discarded after a few minutes. A series of repeated shallow sprinklings often results in distorted growth. As the amount of light increases in the spring, so does the plant’s need for water. The soil, however, should always be allowed to dry out completely between waterings.
Cacti and succulents have relatively low nutrient requirements. Cacti need fertilizer only once or twice a year during the late spring or summer when they are actively growing. Use a houseplant food that is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen, diluted to half the recommended rate. Other succulents may be fertilized in the same manner three or four times during the brighter months. You may be able to bring your cacti and succulents into bloom indoors if you can approximate their native winter conditions. This involves a combination of good light, dry soil, and cool nights. Often a windowsill location will give the necessary light and cool night temperatures. Some cacti that are relatively easy to flower indoors are species of Mammillaria, Gymnocalycium, Echinopsis (Lobivia), and Rebutia. (Don’t be fooled by the presence of tiny, brightly colored straw flowers commonly stuck into the tissue of small cacti sold commercially).
Many cacti and succulents benefit from spending the summer months outdoors. Once the weather warms up they should be placed in a semi-shaded, protected area of the yard and then gradually moved to a sunnier location. Avoid locations where they will receive the hot, intense sunlight from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Once outdoors, these plants will require more water and so should be checked regularly.
Many cacti and succulents benefit from spending the summer months outdoors. Once the weather warms up they should be placed in a semi-shaded, protected area of the yard and then gradually moved to a sunnier location. Avoid locations where they will receive the hot, intense sunlight from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Once outdoors, these plants will require more water and so should be checked regularly.
Often cacti and succulents are grouped together in shallow dish gardens. While this may be an extremely attractive method of display, several precautions should be taken. Choose plants that are compatible in rate of growth so that one or two plants don’t outgrow the rest. Even more important, the plants must have similar water requirements. Generally speaking, most cacti need less water than do other succulents. Since these shallow dishes seldom have drain holes, it is essential that the plants aren’t overwatered. Broken clay pot shards or coarse gravel at the bottom of the container may provide a bit of drainage, but excess moisture will eventually be drawn back into the soil, which may keep the roots wet too long.
Cacti and succulents are not troubled much by pests. If they have mealybugs or scale, the problem can be controlled by wiping them off with alcohol-dipped cotton swabs. Fungal or bacterial rots can almost always be prevented by maintaining adequate cultural conditions-bright light and proper watering.
Cacti and succulents can be propagated easily by stem cuttings. Many succulents will form new plants from leaves which have been broken off. Allow the cutting wound to air dry before sticking the cutting into slightly moistened, sterile sand. Water sparingly since moisture retention is not a problem. When the roots have formed, transplant into the regular sand and potting soil mixture.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) do not have the typical requirements of most succulents. Although true cacti, they are epiphytic in nature, growing in the branches of trees in their native tropical forest rain habitats. The need for high humidity, bright but filtered light, and soil kept relatively moist most of the year sets these plants apart from the majority of cacti and succulents.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sansevierias are valued for their interesting appearance and durability. Although the most common variety is known as Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue for its long, pointed leaves that stand straight up in the pot, other varieties grow from compact rosettes and reach mature heights of only about 4 inches (10 cm). Because Sansevierias thrive with minimal care and live for many years, it seems nearly indestructible. Sansevieria is suitable for planting outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10B through 11.
Light Place Sansevierias in moderately bright or filtered light. Good locations include a spot in front of a north-facing window or in front of a bright, sunny window covered by a sheer curtain. Although the plant tolerates low light, bright light brings out the colors in the leaves. However, intense light may cause the edges of the leaves to turn yellow.
Watering Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, and then water deeply until water drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain and then discard water that remains in the saucer. Never allow the soil to become soggy and never let the pot stand in water. Water sparingly throughout the winter. Like most succulent plants that store water in their leaves, Sansevieria rots quickly in excessively wet soil.
Temperature Place Sansevieria in average room temperatures. Protect the plant from drafts and cold temperatures as it is damaged at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). Feeding Feed the plant once every three weeks throughout the summer. Use a general-purpose fertilizer for houseplants diluted to one-half the strength suggested on the container. Sansevieria is a light feeder and too much fertilizer makes the leaves fall over.
Repotting Repot the plant into a container one size larger only when the roots outgrow the pot. Sansevieria thrives — and may produce blooms — when its roots are crowded. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting soil. Some people repot plants only when the roots crack the pot.
Remove dust by wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which may damage the leaves or cause them to take on a rusty appearance. If any leaves are damaged or blemished, cut them off, even with the soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sempervivum, also known as “Houseleeks” or “Hen and Chick” plants, are among the most popular succulents. They are exceptionally hardy plants and seem to thrive in cold and hot, low light or strong light. They are closely related to Echeveria, Kalanchoe and Crassula, which all belong to the Crassulaceae family. There is a very wide variety of Sempervivum, and they are easily pressed into service as beautiful mixed-dish gardens.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window. Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly. Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing. Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants. Propagation Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many people think that cacti and succulents require a small amount of water every once in a while. While its true that these plants are tough, and can usually survive under such circumstances, most certainly will not thrive.
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants. A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it. Light Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light: Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
OK, so you just returned from the store with your first cactus plant, or perhaps you bought one of those funny looking little plants with a tag sticking in the pot that says “Assorted Succulents.” You might be asking yourself, “how do I take care of this thing?”
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’re lucky, you could receive a Christmas Cactus as a gift this holiday season. This common house plant blooms during the Christmas season, but its long green arms are attractive throughout the year. With cultivars in a rainbow of colors, it is a plant worthy of appreciation. These 10 facts about Christmas Cacti will help you to care for your plant if you happen to receive one this holiday season.
1. It’s called a “cactus”, but it thrives in cooler temperatures. Christmas Cacti need to be kept away from heat sources. According to the Purdue University Extension Service, a Christmas Cactus will blossom longer when exposed to only cooler temperatures. For best results, keep your Christmas Cactus in a cool place (away from heaters and fireplaces) where there are not frequent drafts (right next to a frequently used door would not be a good place). Big changes in temperature can cause the blooms to drop off the plant before they open. The optimal temperature for Christmas Cacti is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). 2. Christmas Cacti need light to bloom. According to Purdue University Extension Service, keeping your Christmas Cactus plants in a sunny location indoors is the key to prolonged blooms. However, if you move them outside during the summer, you’ll have the most success in a partially shaded location, as too much direct light can burn the leaves. 3. The Christmas Cactus is native to Brazil. These epiphytes (a plant that grows on top of another plant non-parasitically) grow in the Brazilian rain forest, among tree branches, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Since they are tropical plants, they thrive in humid conditions. 4. Christmas Cacti need their beauty sleep. The horticulture experts at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens recommend setting your Christmas Cactus in a room where you never turn the lights on at night. In order for the flower buds to set, Christmas Cacti need 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day. However, after the flower buds have set, Christmas Cacti can withstand lights on at night. 5. Unlike the other Christmas favorite, Poinsettia, Christmas Cactus is not toxic to dogs and cats. Poinsettia is famously poisonous to dogs and cats. However, according to the ASPCA, if Fido or Fluffy nibbles on a Christmas Cactus, she should not experience irritation or vomiting like she would from the sap of the Poinsettia.
6. Christmas Cactus can live for 20 to 30 years. Can you imagine passing a living, flowering plant on to your children or grandchildren? According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, when properly cared for, Christmas Cacti can live for 20 to 30 years. If you provide long nights starting around October 1st, you can force the Christmas Cactus to bloom year after year. Cool night temperatures can also encourage it to bloom. 7. Overwatering will kill Christmas Cacti, but they like to be misted on a daily basis. A horticulturist at the Oregon State University Extension Service recommend only adding water to the soil that a Christmas Cactus is planted in when the soil is dry to the touch. Instead, gardening expert and radio host Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, suggests misting the leaves of the Christmas Cactus to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant. 8. 5 diseases commonly infect Christmas Cactus. Penn State University Extension experts provide a handy fact sheet that outlines the plant diseases that most often affect Christmas Cacti. Their list includes: Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot. 9. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs are the pests that most often infest Christmas Cacti. The University of Massachusetts-Amherst Extension Service recommends preventative measures. The biggest culprit in attracting pests to Christmas Cacti seems to be overwatering. Preventative care, such as discarding infested plants, is another recommended tactic. Pesticides are available for commercial growers, although home-growers may not be able to get their hands on those pesticides.
10. By the way, that Christmas Cactus you are buying is probably not actually a Christmas cactus. Surprise! According to the U-Mass Extension Service, “Holiday Cactus is sometimes marketed as Christmas Cactus, Thanksgiving Cactus, or Zygocactus. The “true” Christmas Cactus is an interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana that originated about 150 years ago in England. It is a common houseplant but is not often grown commercially. Plants have segments with rounded margins, ribbed ovaries, and purplish-brown anthers. The correct latin name for Christmas Cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi; the “x” indicates that it is an interspecific hybrid. Most commercial cultivars of Holiday Cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, commonly known as Thanksgiving Cactus or Zygocactus.”
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Opuntia is a large genus of cacti distributed throughout the Americas. The genus is best known for the prickly pears, though some naming controversy exists over whether or not chollas—a separate variety of barbed cacti—are considered Opuntia as well. Prickly pears are cacti known for their spines: many have large, rounded spines while others have tiny, hairlike barbs that detach upon contact from the plant. Prickly pears are prized for their edibility, as they grow cactus fruit commonly eaten in Mexico and the American Southwest—however, be sure that any cactus fruit has been carefully cleaned if you plan on eating it, as the tiny glochids on the fruit can lodge in skin and are very painful to remove. The distinctive red-purple juice of the cactus fruit can also be used in drinks, candy, and jellies. Prickly pears bloom in mid-summer and can be grown ornamentally; however, they really only can grow in desert climates. Lovers of cacti in a hot, dry area can consider growing plants of this genus.
Growing Conditions Light: As desert cacti, prickly pears require maximum sunlight to thrive and should be kept in direct sunlight whenever possible. Water: Very little water is required. These drought-resistant plants grow best in hot, dry areas and excessive water could cause them to rot. Temperature: Hot temperatures are best, but these cacti will tolerate a very wide range of temperatures. Soil: The most important soil requirement for Opuntia is that it drains well. Other than that, a basic potting soil is fine – these cacti will grow in rock gardens, as well.
Propagation Prickly pears can propagate either by cuttings or by seed. To propagate by cuttings, sever pads from a plant and let them dry so that the wounds heal. Then place the plants in a dry soil and refrain from watering them until they begin to grow to avoid rotting them. To propagate by seed, rinse away pulp from the seeds, make sure they’re thoroughly dry, and plant – ideally in the spring. Again, the crucial factor in keeping the seeds alive and growing is keeping their soil well-drained and dry.
Repotting Though Opuntia will grow just fine in a garden, they can be grown in pots as well. To repot, ensure the soil is dry, then remove the pot and knock away the old soil. After treating any cuts with fungicide, place the prickly pear in a new pot and backfill it with potting soil. As with a new cutting, make sure not to water a newly repotting prickly pear for a brief period to avoid rotting its roots.
Grower’s Tips Though the large variety of species within the Opuntia genus means different types of prickly pears may need slightly different care, all are desert cacti that need lots of sun, lots of light, and very little water. If you live in a hot, arid area – particularly the American Southwest – these plants can generally be planted outside, left alone, and enjoyed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
A group of plants called succulents that have either fleshy stems and/or leaves are often chosen as house plants for direct light conditions. Their ability to endure drought is reflected in the succulent stem/leaf condition where water is stored. These plants come from many plant families; most notably the cactus family. Others in this group, however, come from sub-tropical areas where light conditions are less extreme and moisture is more abundant. In this second group we find the Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter and Orchid cacti. Some refer to this group as the jungle cacti because they are found as understory plants in tropical forests. Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention. Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover. Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings. Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants. The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted. The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun. The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
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