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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves. Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil. Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand. Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Portulacaria afra, (known as Elephant Bush) is a perennial succulent native to South Africa. It thrives in Sunset Climate Zones 8 through 9 and 12 through 24. This plant reaches heights of 3 feet (90 cm) with a spread of 4 feet (1.2 m) and adapts to either full sun or shade. Elephant Bush also adapts to a range of soil and is not particular about the pH, but does require well-drained soil.
1. Cut a 4- to 6-inches (10- to 15-cm) cutting from the growing tip of your Elephant Bush with a clean sterilized razor blade. Pruning shears or scissors can bruise the stem causing delayed healing. 2. Remove the bottom leaves from the stem cutting, leaving a 2- to 4-inches (5- to 10-cm) section of the stem bare.
3. Dip the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of the stem of your Elephant Bush cutting in rooting compound. Tap the stem against the container to remove excess powder. Many prefer to pour the rooting powder into a paper cup and then dispose of the excess powder and cup together. This prevents contaminating the container of rooting powder. 4. Place the cutting in a warm well-ventilated area to heal and form a callous. Healing time varies, but typically ranges from a few days to a week for Elephant Bush.
5. Mix four parts sand or perlite with one part potting soil and fill a 4-inch (10-cm) pot with the mixture. Firm the soil down with your hands to level the surface. This creates soil that drains well and provides good aeration for your cuttings. 6. Insert the stem of your Elephant Bush into the mixture to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Firm the soil around the stem of your cutting with your hands to secure it in the soil.
7. Add a 1/4- to 1/2-inch (0.6- to 1.2-cm) layer of gravel over the top of the pot to conserve water and prevent soil from spilling over the edges when watering. 8. Water to moisten the soil. Although Elephant Bush does not typically require frequent watering, it needs even moisture for young roots to grow.
9. Place your cutting in a sunny, warm, well-ventilated area. Move your Elephant Bush to its permanent location once roots have formed and the plant shows new growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti and succulents are the perfect choice if you’re looking for indoor plants that almost look after themselves.
Most cacti and succulents can be easily propagated from stem or leaf cuttings, as explained below. For those cacti whose stems are formed of segments (e.g. Prickly Pears, Christmas Cacti), always remove whole segments as cuttings – don’t split segments in half.
Succulents that form clumps, such as Aloes, Haworthias and Agaves, should be divided by simply taking the plant out of its pot and splitting the rootball. Cacti that form numerous heads, such as many Mammillaria and Echinopsis can be divided, or cut off individual heads and use them as cuttings.
How to Do It 1. Choose a healthy piece of stem at least 4 inches (10 cm) long and cut it off cleanly with snips. Use tongs when handling spiny cacti. For plants without stems, remove whole leaves by hand (don’t cut them off). Sit cuttings on a window sill and leave them until the cut surfaces have healed over. 2. Fill a 2.7 or 3.5 inches (7 or 9 cm) pot with cactus potting soil, then insert the base of each cutting to a depth of about 0.8 inch (2 cm), or deep enough that it stands upwards.
3. Water liberally, then place the pot on a warm windowsill, preferably not in direct sunlight. Do not place cactus or succulent cuttings in a propagator or cover them with a plastic bag. 4. Keep an eye on the cutting and water when the compost feels dry. Most cactus and succulent cuttings will root within a month, but it may take longer for new growth to appear.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gardening can be expensive when you start buying lots of plants and pots. What if you could double, triple, even quadruple the number of plants you currently have without spending a dime? If you have a little bit of time on your hands, along with a lot of patience, you can do just that. Let’s dig into a propagation of cacti and succulents!
Instructions 1. Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a variety of sources. This could be from seeds, bulbs, cuttings or other parts of the plant. Cacti and succulents are very easy to propagate. You can take pups from certain species, a stem cutting, or even root new plants from just one leaf! 2. Echeveria, along with other succulents that form rosettes, are a great example of plants that can easily benefit from beheading. If you ever notice your Echeveria with a gangly, long stem and a beautiful rosette on top, it could benefit from beheading — especially if it seems to be slow growing or not producing as many leaves. Use a sharp sterilized knife to cut the top part of the rosette off, leaving some of the stem on it. Let the cutting sit for a few days until it forms a callous on the bottom of the stem. This is a very important step, or you risk rotted stems or leaves.
3. Once the cutting forms a callus, you can pot it in a container where it will form new roots and become a new plant. The remaining part of the stem can also form tiny plantlets at the top or down the stem, and you can eventually cut these off and form new plants in the same way.
4. Propagating from pups is probably the easiest. Let’s use the Aloe plant as an example of a plant that will produce pups. Have you ever noticed when they produce a small offset that looks like the mother plant? This is a pup, and you can either cut it from the mother plant or carefully twist it off. These can generally be potted right away.
5. Being able to propagate from just a tiny leaf might be surprising to the newbie gardener, but yes, you can! To try your hand at this form of propagation, take a leaf and twist or cut it from the stem. It’s very important to try to get the entire base of the leaf stalk. You can place the leaves on top of a layer of soil, where they will form a callus. This is where a shallow tray or saucer comes in handy, as it will give you room to do many at one time. It’s always smart to do a bunch, as you may only have success rooting half of them.
6. In weeks to a few months you should notice them calloused over and producing roots. If the roots are growing towards the air instead of the soil, you might just want to turn the roots to help them find the soil or plant them in their own pot. You can also try placing some of the leaves with the base of the stem inserted shallowly into the soil. Place the trays in bright but indirect light so the leaves do not scorch.
7. Your new little plant cuttings will need to be treated a little more gently than typical hardy cacti and succulents. They will not tolerate bright, direct sun. When it comes to watering, you want to first wait until they have calloused and in some cases, formed roots. Mist lightly in the beginning until roots appear, and then you can begin watering them more frequently. In general, they will need to be babied and watered a little more often in the beginning, but the soil should still dry between waterings. There can be a little bit of trial and error, depending on your individual house. A house that’s drier because of air conditioning or radiators will mean you need to water your cuttings more frequently than if they are in an area with high humidity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing cacti and succulents from seed is relatively straightforward, and can produce a diverse collection of plants in only a few years. There are more than 2,000 species of cacti and succulents suitable as tabletop potted plants or tall floor plants. Cactus and succulent seeds are generally available from commercial seed companies.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing plants from seed is not as hard as you might think – even though many of us have tried and failed! One of the most common mistakes people make is planting the seeds too deeply. You should only plant a seed as deep in the soil as the seed is wide. When seeds are planted too deeply the tiny plants emerge and begin to grow but do not reach the surface before they run out of stored food. Follow these instructions for growing cacti from seed and you will surely be successful.
Seed It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Echinocactus grusonii, better known as Golden Barrel Cactus, gets its common name from its barrel-like shape. It typically reaches 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) in diameter and up to 36 inches (90 cm) in height.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
1. Soak Golden Barrel Cactus seeds overnight in room-temperature water. Soaking seeds will help increase germination rates. 2. Fill a seed tray three-fourths of the way with slightly moist potting medium made with 1 part sand and 1 part high-quality potting soil. 3. Scatter two or three seeds per seed compartment on top of the soil. Then, cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand.
4. Slip the seed tray into a plastic bag and tie it closed with a twist tie. Place the tray in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, that is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 27 degrees Celsius).
5. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination. Spraying the soil with a mister or spray bottle, rather than watering it from the top, will help prevent the soil and seeds from becoming too wet. After the seedlings emerge, you can take off the bag and set the tray into a sunny area until they are several inches tall and large enough to transplant to a larger container.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulent plants are as lovely as they are easy to grow. The best part is that its leaves and stem provide an endless number of identical plants through simple propagation. Growing succulents from clippings is both fun and rewarding. They grow quickly and with minimal effort, and the resulting plants make great gifts and lively home decor. A well-clipped leaf or stem is practically all a gardener needs to grow an entirely new succulent with success.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point. Separate and Enjoy Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings. Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aeoniums are succulent plants, meaning they hold their nutrients and water supply in their leaves. They resemble flowers with no leaves because their foliage is so ornate. Dividing and propagating Aeonium is easy, if you know what steps to take and what to use.
Determine is Division is Necessary Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Grafting cacti is a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. It is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try.
Cacti are easy to propagate through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Grafting Guide Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cacti is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants.
Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or Hylocereus undatus, Cereus repandus and Echinopsis spachiana. Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cacti for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft a Cactus Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one.
Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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