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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol. Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent. Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting. Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again. Seeds Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry. Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well. Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need Pruning shears Rubbing alcohol Nursery containers Cactus and succulent potting mix Perlite Nursery flat Plastic wrap
Tip Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kiwi Aeonium (Aeonium ‘Kiwi’) adds year-round color and texture to gardens with its colorful foliage, which has shades of chartreuse, cream and red. It grows U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it grows equally well in containers and low-water landscaping beds. Kiwi Aeonium propagates best by vegetative methods, but they will also grow from seed. Seed-grown plants sometimes differ in appearance because they’re hybrids.
Seed Propagation Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Columnar Cacti earned their common name from the slender shape and erect growth habit they exhibit. Several unrelated species are known by the name Columnar Cacti, including Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis), Firecracker Cactus (Cleistocactus smaragdiflorus) and giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea).
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it. 2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant. 4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot. 6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water. 8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots. 10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulent plants are nick named “Fat Plants” because they store water in their leaves, roots, or stems. The stored water makes these plants appear fleshy and swollen; their leaves plump and firm with the stored water.
The best known succulents are cacti because nearly all cacti are classified as succulent plants; storing water within their flesh. Most cacti are succulents, however, not every succulent is a cactus. Succulents make beautiful houseplants and are extremely desirable plants to propagate. This article will walk you through three ways to propagate succulent plants, allowing you to multiply your succulent population.
Propagation Using Cuttings Propagating a new plant by using a cutting from a mother plant creates a new specimen that is genetically identical to the plant from which it was taken. Successfully rooted cuttings are therefore called “clones” because they are literally a clone of their mother plants. Many species of succulents can be divided and propagated from pieces cut from the stem of the mother plant with a sterile razor blade. The best place to take a cutting is at a stem node where the leaves or buds join the main stem.
The cutting should be dipped into rooting hormone before it is placed into nutrient rich potting soil. When using rooting hormone, remember that less is more. You do not want to saturate the cutting; you merely want to coat the cutting with a thin layer of hormone to encourage growth.
Propagation by Division The method of division is well suited for succulents that create dense and thick root balls. These plants grow thick mats of tuberous roots that may be divided and transformed into several separate plants.
The plant must be removed from its pot and all of the soil around the root ball should be removed; it is nearly impossible to remove all of the soil so just try to get as much as you can. Once cleaned of dirt, you can use a sterilized knife or razor blade to divide the root mass into separate plants. Foliage will sprout from the divided root mass after the roots have stabilized themselves in the grow medium.
Propagation with Offsets The majority of succulent species will produce small plants at the base of the parent plant. More clearly put, an established and healthy parent plant will generate babies which will form and grow at the base of the original succulent. These babies are called offsets.
These offsets can be carefully removed from the parent plant after they have grown at least two or three weeks. Removing offsets from the parent plant is beneficial to its growth because it redirects energy from the offset back to the parent plant. Most cacti produce offsets as does the succulent plant Hens and Chickens as well as most species of Aloe.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Some succulents make your propagation work easier by forming new plants mostly on their own. Some leaf succulents develop roots on their stems while still attached to the mother plant, and sometimes leaves fall off succulents and root by themselves. Still others develop new rooted plantlets at their bases. For such plants, minimal effort is needed on the part of the gardener.
Root-Forming Stems Many members of the Crassulaceae family grow prominent aerial roots along branch stems. If the branch bends over sufficiently to contact the soil, the branch roots into the ground at the point of contact. All you need to do is to cut the connection with the mother plant, dig the new plantlet up and give it a pot of its own. Some examples are Red Echeveria (Echeveria harmsii), Crinkle Leaf Plant (Adromischus cristatus), Pinwheel Plant (Aeonium haworthii) and many Kalanchoes. These plants all grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 and can be grown as houseplants anywhere.
Leaf Propagation Another characteristic of many Crassulaceae family plants is the ability to grow an entire new plant from one leaf. Jelly Bean Plant (Sedum rubrotinctum) grows about 6 inches (15 cm) tall with sprawling branches that root as they go. Leaves are plump, reddish-green and the shape of a jelly bean. They turn bright red in winter. If a leaf falls from the plant, it grows a new plant from its basal end. Jade plant (Crassula ovata) does the same thing. Mother-of-millions (Kalanchoe x houghtonii) produces plantlets along the leaf margins, each of which grows into a new plant. It is so successful that in areas of Australia where it is hardy, it can become a noxious weed. These three plants are hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Division Succulent plants that form basal rosettes like Aloe and Haworthia produce new plants from the base of the mother plant. For a while, the plant remains attached to the parent plant, but as new offsets form, the outer plantlets, already with roots of their own, become disconnected from the parent. You can periodically unpot the plant, remove these independent little offsets and give them a pot of their own. Aloes grow in USDA zones 9 through 11, depending on the species, and Haworthias are hardy in USDA zone 11.
Bulbils and Tubers Pregnant Onion Plant (Ornithogalum caudatum), a member of the Lily family, is a stem succulent that produces a large, pale-green above-ground bulb with a papery white covering. When the plant is 2 to 3 years old, it starts to produce little bulbils here and there on the bulb under the papery covering. They eventually get big enough to break through the covering and can fall to the ground, growing roots and forming a new plant. You can also break them off when they are growing their own leaves and put them on potting soil to root. Pregnant Onion is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) forms little round tubers along its stems. Lay a stem with tubers along potting soil, and the tubers will root into the soil. Disconnect the rooted stem from the mother plant to make an independent plant. String of Hearts is hardy in USDA zone 10.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand. Instructions Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cotyledon orbiculata, also known as Pig’s Ear Plant, sometimes grow in an expansive pattern, which can impede on other plants. While they don’t take up too much water, they can still steal sunlight and root space for your other flora in your arid garden. You may just want to divide your Pig’s Ear because you want to have more of them. Either way, with the right tools and environment, you can get clippings to grow so you can have multiple Cotyledons in your possession.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off. Step 2 – Get it to Root Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot. Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia sp.) thrives in hot, dry desert areas, growing 3 to 20 feet (0.9 to 6 m) tall, depending on the variety and growing conditions. It spreads to cover 3 to 15 feet (0.9 to 4.5 m). The leaves and fruit are edible once the spines are removed. Leaf pads are eaten as a vegetable. Fruit are eaten raw and used to make juice, jelly and candy.
Prickly Pear Cactus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3b through 11. Once established, Prickly Pear Cactus are easy to care for and tolerate drought for two or three weeks.
Fill small pots or a seed tray with cactus soil. Break up any lumps in soil. Water the soil thoroughly and allow to drain. Sow the seeds in the late spring when night temperatures consistently reach above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). Rub the Prickly Pear Cactus seeds against a piece of sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Scratched seeds germinate faster and more reliably than untreated seeds.
Plant one seed per pot or plant seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in seed trays. Press the seed into the soil and cover with a fine layer of soil, barely 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Mist the soil surface with a fine spray of water. Cover the tray with the plastic lid or put individual pots in plastic bags. Cut a small hole in the plastic to create a vent.
Place the pots or tray in a sunny window or under artificial lights. Check the soil daily for moisture and temperature. Ideal soil and air temperatures for prickly pear cactus is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If heat builds up under the plastic, move the container or open the vent further to release excess heat. Water the soil as needed with a fine mist, keeping the soil moist but not wet.
Inspect the seedlings daily. Cactus that turn yellow need more light. Brown or red cactus are receiving too much light. Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outside once the roots are well-developed. Place the transplants in full sun spaced 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist for the first two weeks or until the plant has adjusted to its new location. Increase the time between watering once the cactus are established, allowing the soil to dry out slightly.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to encourage pad growth. If you prefer to encourage flowers and fruit, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 0-10-10. Tips Harvest Prickly Pear Cactus seeds from the ripe fruit of a Prickly Pear Cactus. Wash the seeds to remove all pulp, and dry them on a paper towel in a warm place for a week or two until completely dry. Store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dark place until ready to plant the following spring.
Warning Prickly Pear Cactus earn their name. Wear gloves and handle the plants carefully, the spines are sharp and cause painful irritation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti growing in the wild with paddles and branches tend to drop them to the ground where they root in the rainy season. This is a form of vegetative self-propagation. Even a smashed cactus will attempt to grow roots from the pieces that make contact with the ground. Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia compressa), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, forms colonies with its paddle-like branches through self-propagation. It is possible to regrow a cactus from an arm if taken from a healthy cactus.
Timing While you can root a cactus branch any time of year, rooting while the cactus is actively growing gives the best chance of success. Try rooting the arm in late spring or summer while nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). When temperatures fall below 60 F (16 C), the development of roots slows and the arm dries out before rooting. Branches taken from dormant cacti have the worst chance of rooting.
Drying Once the arm is cut or falls off the cactus, let it dry at room temperature in a shady area for two to seven days. The cut end needs to callus over. This hardening of the wound prevents rotting. It also stops plant diseases from entering through the wound and infecting the cactus arm.
Rooting Mixture The soil for rooting cactus needs to drain quickly, but hold some moisture near the forming roots. The most common mixture is half organic and half inorganic materials. Peat moss holds moisture and provides slow-release nutrients for the developing roots. Use coarse-textured sand, which does not compact down like fine-textured sand. The sand improves the drainage properties of the rooting mixture.
Potting Handle the cactus piece with care so it does not stab your fingers. Use heave-duty gloves, tongs or a folded newspaper wrapped around the prickly piece when moving it. Avoid touching the piece with your hands if it is spiny. Press the cut end of the cactus into the soil mixture. If the branch is large, bury the bottom part of the cactus until the soil supports the branch.
Rooting Most cacti will form roots in four to six weeks during the growing season. Keep the soil damp by misting the soil, but do not over-water the rooting branch. Water deeply, but do not let the container sit in water, which will lead to rot. Once the roots are established, then the plant pot will lift up when the arm is gently picked up. Let the soil dry between watering sessions once the roots develop.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are a favorite group of plants for many indoor gardeners. Succulents and cacti are part of the same group of plants. They have the advantage of growing slowly, requiring minimum care and not outgrowing their locations rapidly. They are simple plants; they require direct sun, well-draining soil and rarely, if ever, need to be fertilized. Sandy soils are best. It is possible to purchase cactus mixes that are sandy with a bit of gravel. A great deal of organic matter is not necessary. Watering is done occasionally. When you think of the origin of these plants, a hot, dry climate with lean soils and not a great deal of rainfall give you the framework of what they expect.
Succulents can be propagated in several ways. It is unusual for them to bloom and then produce viable seeds. The usual way is called vegetative propagation. It is essentially creating a clone from the original plant.
Division or Separation Many succulents multiply themselves through division, but some cacti will have small plants appear along the ribs or leaf edges of the plant. When the plantlets are big enough to handle easily, they can be removed.
With division of other succulents, little plants come up surrounding the parent plant when it is mature. Eventually, more little plants come up and surround the larger surrounding plants and the container is filled. The plant and soil can be taken from the pot and the small plants gently removed. Water the plant well before taking it out of the container so more soil will adhere to the roots. There needs to be roots on the small plants for them to grow. If they are without roots, it may take a long time for roots to form. Pot the little ones in containers. If the little plants are without roots or they broke off, see the information below on callusing.
Cuttings and Callusing A few succulents can be propagated by taking cuttings off the original plant. Sometimes it is because the plant has been damaged or a misplaced elbow and an unceremonious freefall to the floor. Unfortunately, the broken part will not repair and grow again, but the broken segment can be used to generate another plant. The important part is that the broken piece cannot be potted up immediately. It needs a period of time to dry or “callus.”
If the freshly cut piece comes in contact with damp soil, it will rot. Let the cuttings sit for a few days or longer for big pieces. After a period of time, the damp, broken area forms a tough skin or callus over the tissue. The callused plant part can be placed in slightly damp soil. Embed the piece very shallowly. If it is placed too deeply, it will not grow. It may be necessary to support the small plant by having it lean on a craft stick or tongue depressor or against the side of the container. It often takes many months for succulents to form roots. Do not place small plants on a cold window sill or close to a cold window because it will take even longer to grow roots. If a full grown leaf or branch is broken off a succulent like Haworthia or Euphorbia after callusing, it could grow roots. However, if the leaf is broken off Aloe vera, it will not.
There are enough differences in the world of succulents that one size or one rule does not fit all. Smart Gardeners are discovering this continually when learning about plants. Invite a succulent home. They make mannerly and attractive houseguests.
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