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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Frost can spell serious damage to tender plants, especially if you live in an area where frosts are uncommon, they pose a real threat to plants that are used to temperatures above freezing. Even if your climate experiences cold winters, a single frost can come late in the spring or early in the fall to kill your tender plants well before their time. Keep reading to learn more about protecting plants from frost.
How to Protect Plants from Frost Keeping plants safe in frost means being vigilant about the weather. It’s always a good idea to stay as up to date as you can on current conditions in your area, which will give you the head’s up as to when frost may be expected. The best frost plant protection methods are dependent on the length of time cold temps will remain, how low they will go and, of course, the types of plants you have.
These are tips to protect plants from frost if temperatures are projected to dip below 32 F. (0 C.) at night, but not much lower. They’re short-term safety measures that give your plants a few extra degrees to make it through the night, not winter-long plans. That being said, they can be quite effective for shorter periods of time.
Water thoroughly. Wet soil retains warmth better than dry soil. You can also spray leaves with an anti-transpirant to prevent harmful winter loss of moisture. Cover with breathable material. Sheets, blankets, and towels thrown over the tops of plants can help them retain heat. If you cover your plants with plastic, hold it up with stakes – any parts of the plant that touch the plastic will be frosted.
Hang lights in trees and bigger plants. A 100-watt bulb or a string of Christmas lights will radiate heat through the plant. Make sure your bulbs are outdoor safe, and not LED (LED does not give off heat). Move container plants. Cluster them close together to store heat better. Place them against the wall of a building, preferably a south- or west-facing one that will hold the heat of the day longer. Alternatively, you can bring them all the way indoors for the night. Wrap younger trees. Wrap the trunks of less mature trees in blankets to help retain heat.
Nothing is guaranteed for keeping plants safe in frost, especially if the temperature falls lower than anticipated. If it’s autumn, pick everything ripe the day before the frost, just in case.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
The wind howls like a banshee, perhaps the death she portends is the death of your landscape. Heavy rain beats down on the home and landscape like a steady beat of drums. You may even hear the occasional “ting” of hail pelting off windows and siding. Thunder rumbles, shaking the house around you. You look outside and see your landscape plants whipping around in the wind. Lightning strikes off in the distance, for a brief moment lighting up your view, showing you all the destruction you will have to deal with once the storm passes – downed limbs or trees, pots blown away, plants flattened, etc. Clean up after severe weather can be quite a chore. Continue reading to learn how to protect plants from thunderstorms.
Thunderstorm Plant Damage Thunderstorms, specifically lightning, are good for plants. The air around us is full of nitrogen, but plants cannot absorb this nitrogen from the air. Lightening and rain put this nitrogen into the soil where plants can absorb it. This is why lawns, gardens and landscapes look so green after a thunderstorm. Thunderstorms may not be so good for you, though, if a tree limb falls and damages property or if your hanging baskets and containers have flown off to the neighbor’s yard. When there is threat of severe weather, remove container plants to a sheltered location.
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” said Benjamin Franklin. While this is true of so many things, it is also true of preparing for severe weather. Performing regular maintenance of trees and shrubs can prevent a lot of storm damage. All too often we only assess the damage to our trees and shrubs after storms, when we should actually be inspecting them regularly to ensure they aren’t damaged when severe weather does hit. Dead, broken, weakened or damaged branches can cause severe damage to property and people when they come crashing down from high winds or heavy rain. If trees and shrubs are regularly pruned, much of this damage can be avoided.
Protecting Plants in Severe Weather If you are in an area of high winds or frequent storms, you should stake small and young trees. There are many different kinds of tree stake kits available. Trees should be staked somewhat loosely so they are allowed to sway in the wind slightly. If they are staked too tightly, wind can cause the tree to snap right in half. To prevent severe weather damage to plants, like arborvitaeor yews, tie up interior branches with pantyhose so they do not flatten or split in the middle under heavy wind and rain.
Small plants that tend to flatten in wind and rain, like peonies, can be covered with a 5-gallon bucket or other sturdy container. Just be sure to weigh this container down with brick or a boulder to ensure that it doesn’t fly off in high wind, and remove the container immediately after the threat of severe weather has passed.
After a storm, assess any plant damage so you know how to properly prepare for the next storm. Preparation is the key to preventing thunderstorm plant damage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are lots of plants in the garden that we devote almost no thought to. For example, parasitic plants exist in a wide range of conditions and they’re rarely discussed. This article is about hemiparasitic plants and the damage they can do to your landscape or garden.
What is a Hemiparasitic Plant? Photosynthesis is an important process for plants everywhere, or so most people think. Smart gardeners, however, know that there are parasitic plants out there that derive some or all of their nutrients by stealing them from other plants. Just like parasitic animals feed on the blood of other animals, parasitic plants do much the same thing.
There are two main types of plant parasites: hemiparasitic and holoparasitic. Hemiparasitic plants in gardens are of less concern than their holoparasitic counterparts. When looking at holoparasitic vs. hemiparasitic plants, the key distinguishing feature is how much of their nutrients are derived from other plants. Hemiparasitic plants photosynthesize, unlike holoparasitic plants, which do not.
However, that’s not the end of the most important hemiparasitic plant info gardeners need. Because these plants are still parasites, they do utilize other plants to survive. By attaching to their host plants’ xylem, hemiparasitic plants are able to steal water and valuable minerals. Root hemiparasites are harder to detect, since they attach to their hosts below ground, but stem hemiparasites are obvious because they attach to the host’s trunk. Some root hemiparasites are able to complete their life cycles without a host, but all stem hemiparasites need a host to survive.
Examples of hemiparasitic plants include: Mistletoe Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) Velvetbells (Bartsia alpina) Rattle plants (Rhinanthus) Indian paintbrush Most of these plants look very much like freestanding agents, but they are, in fact, feeding off something nearby.
Do Hemiparasitic Plants Cause Damage? Having parasites in the garden is obviously cause for alarm for many homeowners. After all, these plants are leaching important nutrients from somewhere – it could be beloved landscape plants. The truth is that it really depends on the plant and the condition of the host whether or not a hemiparasitic plant will cause considerable damage. Those that are already weakened or plants that are devoting all their resources to producing food will be hit much harder than healthy landscape plants.
The first sign of hemiparasitic plants is always the actual appearance of the plant in the garden, but if you’re unfamiliar with the parasite, it might seem like a harmless weed or wildflower. The host plant, no matter how healthy, will almost certainly show some subtle signals. For example, a lush green bush that has a hemiparasite may suddenly fade a little or need more feedings.
Always check for new plants in the garden before assuming your landscape is simply old or ill, as recovery could be as simple as killing the hemiparasite that’s making it difficult for your plant to get enough nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Savvy gardeners are always on the watch for important plant infections in their gardens. One area that many neglect, however, are parasitic plants. If a plant is growing on or near another, it’s generally assumed they’re simply compatible, and not that one is drawing vital nutrients from the other. Learn more about holoparasitic plants in this article so you can better distinguish plant friend from foe.
What are Holoparasitic Plants? Spending time in the garden means getting better acquainted with some of the more lowly denizens contained therein. You learn which plants are weeds, which ones are useful groundcover and, if you’re lucky, which ones are holoparasitic plants. With anything in life, the plant kingdom contains a small segment (about 4,400 species) of flowering plants that don’t produce any or all of their own food. This holoparasitic information will help you better recognize them when wandering the garden path.
Holoparasitic plants in the garden may be some of the least obvious occupants, but they can have a big impact. These plants are wholly dependent on host plants to survive, tapping into their xylem and phloem, gaining access to water, minerals and other organic products. Holoparasitic plants don’t photosynthesize, but they do flower and often feature leaves that have reduced to scales and succulent stems. Parasitic plants like these attach to their host using a specialized structure called the haustorium, which is always a vital structure in holoparasites.
Holoparasitic plants in gardens can either act strictly as parasites, stealing nutrients and giving nothing in return, but also not seriously injuring their hosts, or they can behave as pathogens. Plant family Hydnoraceae, for example, often coexist with their plant hosts. Other holoparasites, like dodder, will attach to and kill a wide range of host plants – in this way behaving both as a parasite and a pathogen. These two types of holoparasitic plants tend create a pretty simplistic picture, since, in reality, some strictly parasitic plants can accidentally kill their hosts, and some pathogenic plants can be resisted by genetically strong hosts.
Other types of holoparasitic plants include: Toothwort Broomrape Beechdrop Squawroot Holoparasitic Plants vs. Carnivorous Plants Although it might seem like holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants have a great deal in common, they’re really very different creatures. Where holoparasitic plants attach themselves to other plants, often without even bothering to produce roots or leaves, carnivorous plants both root in their environments and produce small and often waxy leaves for photosynthesis.
Holoparasites produce none of their own food. Carnivorous plants, on the other hand, produce all of their own food, but live in nutrient-poor environments and, as such, must get some of their most vital building blocks by dissolving animals that have been lured and captured using a various traps.
In a way, holoparasitic plants and carnivorous plants are complete opposites. They both thrive in areas where many plants would struggle, but how they do it is entirely different. Holoparasites work only hard enough to find a host; carnivorous plants work every day to bait and trap unsuspecting insects and small animals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
At Christmastime, one of our warm and fuzzy traditions is to kiss under the mistletoe. But did you know mistletoe is actually a parasite, one that has the potential to be a vicious tree-killing one? That’s right – just a little factoid to keep in your hip pocket if you need a great excuse for ducking out of a holiday smooch. Mistletoe actually is one of many different types of parasitic plants out there. Given that there are over 4,000 species of parasitic plants in existence, you will need some parasitic plant info to help you make sense of it all.
What are Parasitic Plants? What are parasitic plants? The simple explanation is that they are heterotrophic, meaning that they are plants that rely on other plants in whole, or in part, for their water and nutrition. They are able to siphon these resources from another plant because they possess modified roots, called haustoria, which penetrate undetected into the pipeline, or vascular system, of their host. I liken it to a computer virus latching onto your computer system undetected, siphoning and draining your resources.
Types of Parasitic Plants There are many different types of parasitic plants in existence. The classification of a parasitic plant is essentially determined by giving it a litmus test across three different sets of criteria.
The first set of criteria determines whether the completion of a parasitic plant’s life cycle is solely dependent on its association with a host plant. If it is, the plant is considered an obligate parasite. If the plant has the potential to survive independent of a host, it is known as a facultative parasite. The second set of criteria assesses the type of attachment the parasitic plant has to its host. If it attaches to a host’s root, for instance, it is a root parasite. If it attaches to a host’s stem, it is, you guessed it, a stem parasite.
The third set of criteria classifies parasitic plants according to their ability to produce their own chlorophyll. Parasitic plants are considered holoparasitic if they produce no chlorophyll and rely exclusively on the host plant for nutrition. These plants are characteristically pale or yellow in appearance. Parasitic plants which do produce their own chlorophyll (and hence are greener in color), gleaning some nutrition from a host plant, are identified as hemiparasitic. Mistletoe, so lovingly described in this article’s opener, is an obligate stem hemiparasite.
Parasitic Plant Damage It is important that we are aware of this parasitic plant info because parasitic plant damage can have serious repercussions. The stunted growth and death that afflict the parasites’ host plants can happen on a massive scale and threaten vital food crops or even disrupt the delicate balance in ecosystems and all who exist within it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cicada bugs emerge every 13 or 17 years to terrorize trees and the people who care for them. Are your trees at risk? Learn to minimize cicada damage to trees in this article.
Do Cicadas Damage Trees? Cicadas can damage trees, but not in the ways you might think. The adults might feed on leaves, but not enough to cause any serious or lasting damage. The larvae drop to the ground and dig down to the roots where they feed until it’s time to pupate. While root feeding robs the tree of nutrients that would otherwise help it grow, arborists have never documented any damage to the tree from this type of feeding.
Tree damage from cicada insects occurs during the egg laying process. The female lays her eggs under the bark of a twig or branch. The twig splits and dies, and the leaves on the twig turn brown. This condition is called “flagging.” You can spot flagging twigs and branches at a glance because of the contrast of brown leaves against the healthy green leaves on other branches.
Female cicadas are particular about the size of the branch or twig where they lay their eggs, preferring those that are about the diameter of a pencil. This means that older trees won’t sustain serious damage because their primary branches are much larger. Young trees, on the other hand, may be so severely damaged that they die from their injuries.
Minimizing Cicada Damage to Trees Most people don’t want to wage chemical warfare in their own backyard to prevent tree damage from cicada insects, so here’s a list of prevention measures that don’t involve the use of insecticides: Don’t plant new trees within four years of the cicadas emerging. Young trees are at high risk, so it’s best to wait until the danger has passed. Your Cooperative Extension agent can tell you when to expect the cicadas. Prevent cicada bugs in small trees by covering them with netting.
The netting should have a mesh size no longer than one quarter inch. Fasten the netting around the trunk of the tree just below the canopy to prevent emerging cicadas from climbing up the trunk. Clip off and destroy flagging damage. This reduces the population of the next generation by eliminating the eggs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
What are kermes scale pests? Kermes scale are aggressive sap-sucking pests that can cause significant damage in oak trees. Treating kermes scale on plants is attained by a variety of methods. Read on to learn about kermes scale control.
Kermes Scale Life Cycle Pinning down kermes scale life cycle is a difficult task. According to Illinois State University Extension, there are more than 30 different kermes scale species. Identification of the specific species is difficult and hatching times vary widely. Your local Cooperative Extension Agent can advise you what types of kermes scale are present in your area, and about the best times for treating kermes scale pests on your trees.
Treating Kermes Scale Kermes scale pests are most likely to infest trees that are under stress. Ensure trees are properly watered and fertilized. Prune infested twigs and branches, and keep the area under the tree free of plant debris. Encourage beneficial insects in your garden, as parasitic wasps and ladybugs will help keep kermes scale in check. Use chemical insecticides only when nothing else works, as insecticides aren’t selective and will kill bees and other beneficial insects as well as scale, often resulting in pests that are resistant to chemicals and more difficult to control.
Treating kermes scale is most effective when the pests are newly hatched or early in the crawling stage, which is autumn for most species. However, some species may produce crawlers in midsummer. Keep in mind that sprays won’t penetrate scales’ tough, waxy covering.
Try using a pyrethroid-based insecticide, which is plant-based and safer for beneficial insects. You can also spray overwintering scales with horticultural oil in late winter or early spring. Dormant oil is effective when temperatures are above freezing. Both oils will smother the pests.
Insecticidal soap sprays may be effective on scales that are recently settled and are relatively safe for beneficial insects because the spray is effective only when wet. However, direct contact will kill the good guys. Also, don’t use insecticidal soap spray when temperatures are hot, or when the sun is directly on the foliage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Harvesting rain in barrels is an earth-friendly practice that conserves water, reduces runoff that negatively impacts waterways, and benefits plants and soil. The downside is that standing water in rain barrels is an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes. There are a number of ways of preventing mosquitoes in rain barrels. Read on for a few helpful suggestions.
Rain Barrels and Mosquito Pests While using a rain barrel in the garden is great for water conservation among its other benefits, mosquitoes are a constant threat, as they carry life-threatening diseases. Learning how to control mosquitoes in a rain barrel is just as important to controlling them anywhere else, especially since the pests take advantage of standing water to help carry out their life cycle.
Here are some things you can do to minimize their presence: Dish soap – Liquid dish soap creates a slick film on the surface of the water. When mosquitoes attempt to land, they drown before they have time to lay eggs. Use natural soap and avoid products with perfume or degreasers, especially if you water your plants with rain water. One or two tablespoons of liquid soap per week is plenty for most rain barrels.
Mosquito dunks – Also known as mosquito donuts, mosquito dunks are round cakes of Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis), a naturally occurring bacteria that provides mosquito control in rain barrels as it slowly dissolves. However, it is safe for beneficial insects. Be sure the product label indicates the dunks are formulated for ponds because other types, which kill caterpillars, aren’t effective in water. Replace the dunks as needed. Check them after a hard rain.
Vegetable oil – Oil floats on the surface of the water. If mosquitoes attempt to land, they suffocate in the oil. Use about a quarter cup of oil per week. You can use any type of oil, including olive oil. Horticultural oil or dormant oil are also effective for preventing mosquitoes in rain barrels. Netting – Fine mesh or netting attached firmly to the barrel keeps mosquitoes out. Attach the netting to the barrel with a bungee cord.
Goldfish – One or two goldfish keep mosquitoes in control and their poop provides a little extra nitrogen-rich fertilizer for plants. This isn’t a good solution, however, if your rain barrel is in direct sunlight or the water is too warm. Be sure to place netting over the spigot and any other openings. Remove the goldfish and bring them indoors before the first hard frost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
It’s surprising that such tiny creatures as spider mites can have such a big impact on trees. Even the largest tree can sustain serious damage. Read on to find out what to do about spider mites in trees.
About Spider Mites in Trees Although we sometimes call them “bugs” or “insects,” the fact that they have eight legs means that technically, spider mites are more closely related to spidersand ticks. They can seriously damage trees because they are present in large numbers. Each adult female can lay around 100 eggs and, in warm weather, they can have up to 30 generations in a year.
The last clutch of eggs overwinters on the trees and waits until warm weather returns to hatch. That means that if you had spider mites last year, you will have them again this year unless you are using spider mite control for trees in your landscape. Make sure it is spider mites causing the problem, though, and not a disease or insect before you begin a program of spider mite control. The mites feed by sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves, causing little white dots called stipples.
When the mites are present in large numbers, the leaves turn yellow or bronze and drop off. Silk webbing over the leaves and tender shoots is another indication that you have spider mites. If you still aren’t sure whether you have spider mite tree damage or another problem, try this test. Hold a piece of white paper under the tip of a stem with damage. Tap the tip of the stem so that specks fall onto the paper. Now wait a few minutes to see if some of the specks start to move. Moving specks means spider mites.
Control of Spider Mites If the tree is small enough that you can reach all of the branches with a water hose, all you have to do is give it a forceful spray. Use as much pressure as the tree can bear without damage. Check for mites after the tree dries, and repeat as necessary.
You can’t spray a tall tree forcefully enough to get rid of the mites for good, but trees benefit from a rinsing now and then. Spider mites thrive in dusty conditions, so rinse the branches as best you can and keep bare patches of ground lightly moist to eliminate flying dust. Predatory mites and lacewingsare natural enemies of spider mites. There are many species of predatory mites, each with their own strengths and weaknesses when it comes to controlling spider mites. Try to find a local source where you can get help choosing the right species and determining how many you need.
Chemicals are the last resort for pest control. Before you run out and buy the first product you can find, be aware that some make the problem worse. For instance, carbaryl (Sevin) makes spider mites reproduce faster, and pyrethroids add nitrogen to the leaves, making them tastier.
Two good choices are horticultural oils and insecticidal soap. You should read and carefully follow the label instructions, especially when using horticultural oils. Using the oils at the wrong time may not solve the problem and can damage the tree. Spray insecticidal soap and horticultural oil until the products drip from the tree. Neither have lasting effects, so you may have to spray several times through the growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
If your plants are attacked by two-spotted mites, you are going to want to take some action to protect them. What are two-spotted spider mites? They are mites with the scientific name of Tetranychus urticae that infest hundreds of different plant species. For more information about two-spotted mite damage and control of two-spotted mites, read on.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites? You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
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