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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Sometimes it is very easy to identify the best way to propagate a cactus or succulent, and other times it is not as obvious. However before you start, the first thing to ask yourself is: What kind of plant do I have? If you don’t know the easiest way to learn is to organize the information you know about your plant into categories. How is it shaped? Is it tall and thin, short and round, or does it have many little leaves? How does it grow? Does it grow all by itself, are there many branches, or are there similar tiny plants that poke up out of the soil near it? Does it flower?
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including: Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia) Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce). Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are: Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis) Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria Euphorbia Stapeliads Bryophyllum Kalanchoe Graptopetalum. Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to: Gasteria Haworthia, Sansevieria Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.). Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below: Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’ Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus. Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum Tubers: Ceropegia.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
About a month ago I bought and planted some succulents. I love the different shapes they come in and I was determined to keep them alive. I researched how to transplant succulents for a long time before I took them out of their pots. I can safely say they are still green and healthy!
I rounded up the tips that I learned in one place for anyone else to learn from, but also so I don’t forget them next time I get some desert plants. Buy Few, Plant Many I was standing in the nursery with 7-10 different kinds of succulents scattered around my feet. That’s when my husband put the kabosh on my plan to GET THEM ALL and said I should choose four. Although that was the hardest decision to make, I was once again reminded that I am married to a wise man.
Four pots of succulents from the nursery quadrupled as soon as I started planting them! I wanted to give them enough space so each plant got its own pot and before I knew it, I had waaayy too many succulents on my hands.
Choose Green During my research I found out that the different colors of cacti aren’t just pretty to look at. They have a purpose! If you are going to be keeping your plants indoors make sure you only buy green cacti. The beautiful purple, orange and yellow colors will die if they don’t get enough heat and sun. Since I like to live with my air conditioner on during the summer only green succulents would survive.
Replant Buds The rose shaped succulents often come with tiny buds growing at their base. These sweet little babies are easy to pull off and will survive if you stick their orange stems into some dirt. Guess what? Free succulents! I have actually seen tutorials where you can do this with almost dead leaves from succulents, but I haven’t tried it yet. With any luck I won’t ever have to buy succulents again. I will just start my own miniature farm in my windowsill.
Break Up Roots Some of the succulents that I pulled out of their pots from the store had thick roots that were dying to break free of their walls. Although this isn’t just a tip for succulents, any time you are transplanting something be sure to break the roots out of their shape and spread them out a little before introducing them to their new pot. This helps them grow into the bigger pot.
Mix Dirt and Sand I didn’t read this tip until after my planting job was over but I am going to go back and mix in 1/3 sand to my Miracle Gro soil. Succulents are desert plants and the sand mixture helps with drainage to prevent rotting.
Don’t Water You read that right. As soon as your new plants are potted you are going to be tempted to fill up a watering can and finish the job. Instead, wait a week before their first watering in their new pots. This will give them some time to adjust to the new soil, apparently. Then water them about twice a month. Mine are durable, so even if I forget a month or two they happily bounce back when I remember.
Indirect Sunlight Your green succulents will be happy in your home as long as they get enough sun. Don’t keep them in the closet. Put them on a windowsill or a table where they can drink in lots of natural light even when the sun isn’t directly over their pots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Although many cacti and succulents actually like a tight pot, there will come a time when you need to repot, or maybe you just want to take it out of it’s placates pot and put it in something nicer. But how do you know when a succulent or cacti needs repotting?
Here are a few signs: If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.
A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.
How to: 1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot!
2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.
3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole. Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole. Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing. Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cactus delights the eye with its other-worldly appearance and striking flowers, but it also requires repotting from time to time. This task is often avoided by home gardeners who are generally either unsure how to do it or fear they’ll kill the cactus. But the reality is that repotting cacti isn’t all that difficult.
Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus: Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.
Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.
A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way. Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.
Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used. Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.
Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.
Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.
Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) can be a joy for years and years in your home, but after a while it will need repotting to allow the plant to continue to grow roots to support the ever larger branches and leaves. If left untended, a large Jade Plant is likely to tip over from becoming top heavy. To repot large Jade Plants be sure to have all of your supplies ready in early spring as the Jade Plant starts to show new growth.
Step 1: Spread out a layer of newspaper on the floor to catch dropped soil. If you can’t move your Jade Plant to an open area in your home, then move items around your plant out of the way so you have plenty of room to work around the plant.
Step 2: Place a large pot over the center of the newspaper. The new pot should be only 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) larger in diameter than the existing pot. Step 3: Fill the bottom of the pot an inch (2.5 cm) deep with gravel to help aid in drainage. If you are worried about your plant tipping over, place a brick on top of the gravel to add more weight to the pot.
Step 4: Pour in succulent soil over the gravel and brick, if using one, to fill the bottom third of the pot. Carefully hold the base of the Jade Plant and lift it out of the pot it is in and place it in the center of the new larger pot.
Step 5: Make sure the top surface of the Jade Plant’s root ball is just slightly below the rim of the new pot. Lift the plant, if needed, to add or remove soil. With the Jade Plant positioned in the pot, fill in the surrounding areas with fresh soil until the pot is filled.
Step 6: Position the new pot in a sunny area and water the Jade Plant as you normally would for its weekly watering. The Jade Plant should not need to be repotted again for a number of years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are low maintenance plants for the home with a ton of character and a vast array of form. They are relatively maintenance free except for infrequent watering and annual food. Many gardeners ask “should I repot my cactus?” They don’t need repotting often, but once in a while for soil replenishment and when the plant needs a larger pot. When to repot a cactus plant depends upon the plant and its condition. Read on for tips on how to repot a cactus and do it without spending the rest of the day picking spines out of your hands.
Tools for Repotting Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection.
The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts.
One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot You will know when to repot a cactus if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting.
The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus?”, it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot.
Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window.
Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Although a cactus plant prefers slightly cramped growing conditions in a container, there may come a time when it outgrows its pot and needs a larger one. When the cactus roots reach the edge of the container, you must repot a large cactus. With attention to detail and by following expert recommendations, you can give your cactus fresh soil in a larger container so it can continue to thrive.
Instructions Choose a container that is only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the present container to ensure that you do not place the cactus in a pot that is too large. A cactus in a container too large may begin decaying because the soil will stay too wet. Fill the container approximately halfway with cactus potting soil.
Wear the leather gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the cactus. Loosen the cactus from the container by inserting the trowel gently around the perimeter of the container. Wrap the cactus with newspaper so you can grasp it and work
Transfer the cactus from the old container to the new container. Set the cactus into the container so the plant will be at the same depth as it was growing in the old container. Fill additional soil in around the roots of the cactus and firm the soil down gently to finish repotting it.
Place the repotted cactus into its regular growing location with direct sunlight. Do not water the cactus for two to three days after repotting. Tips and Warnings Repot a cactus in the spring before the plant begins growing actively again.
Install a stake in the new container at the time you repot if your large cactus requires support. Choose a stake that is as tall as the cactus and place it into the container as you place the cactus into the container. Fill soil around both the cactus roots and the stake then tie the stake to the cactus with stretchy plant ties.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
You may have seem some brilliant book planters for succulents and marveled at how such a simple project can yield such beautiful results. It’s a fun, easy project that anyone can do with just a few simple tools and some supplies from a local hardware store or garden center.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies – 1 Vintage book. – 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.” – Little bit of potting soil – 1 exacto knife – Parchment paper or plastic bag – White glue – Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions 1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book. 4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas Cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas Cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas Cactus.
When to Repot Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
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