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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Crassula ovata (also known as Jade Plant) care is easy and simple. Many people enjoy growing Jade Plants in their homes and offices, and they are considered to be symbols of good luck. But you do not need to be lucky to learn what the proper care and maintenance of Jade Plants is. Keep reading to learn how to care for a Crassula ovata.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant. Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents. Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this). Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Disocactus flagelliformis commonly known as Rat Tail Cactus, is a cactus with a thick hanging stems, each with 8 – 13 ribs, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long and up to 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in diameter. The needle groups are tiny, almost fuzzy-looking and have 15 – 20 fine reddish-yellow spines each. Flowers are a beautiful magenta color, curved, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.
Disocactus flagelliformis is epiphytic in the wild (it grows in trees). It is perfectly adapted to hanging baskets. It is the most cultivated species in the genus. Due to its ease of cultivation and attractive floral displays, Disocactus flagelliformis is often grown as an ornamental pot plant.
Growing Conditions Light: Disocactus flagelliformis requires full sunlight. Hang the pot or basket in the sunniest window available. If possible, hang the plant outdoors in summer to give it fresh air and extra light. Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents. Temperature: During the active growth period normal room temperatures are suitable. In winter these plants should be rested at 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C), if possible, but they tolerate temperatures up to 59 to 61 °F (15 to 16 °C). Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully, keeping the potting mixture thoroughly moist, but do not let plants stand in water. During the winter rest period just keep the mixture from drying out. Fertilizing: Use half-strength liquid fertilizer sprayed on to the stems of the plant once every two weeks during the active growth period only.
General Care Disocactus flagelliformis is easy to cultivate and relatively fast growing cactus. Their trailing stems make these cacti ideal plants for a hanging basket. Line the basket with sphagnum moss before filling it with potting mixture and make sure it is hung where the prickly stems will not pose a treat to the unwary. If Disocactus flagelliformis is grown in a pot, hang the pot up or attache it to a high shelf. If it is left free-standing, it can soon be overbalanced by the lengthening stems.
Propagation To propagate, use either 6 inches (15 cm) tip or 6 inches (15 cm) segment of any part of the stem. Allow each cutting or segment to dry for three days; then insert it about 0.8 inch (2 cm) deep in a small pan or pot of the recommended potting mixture for mature plants; be sure that any stem segment is planted with the bottom end down. If this shallowly inserted cutting tends to fall over, it can be supported by being gently tied to a small wooden stick. Cultivation needs of cuttings are the same as those for mature Disocactus flagelliformis and rooting will occur within a few weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Dorstenia are a strange caudex forming genus of plants from north east Africa. They tend to spread out along the base, just above the soil and have some to many branches pointing upward. They usually have attractive green non-succulent leaves of various shapes depending on the species. Some species have sunflower like flowers that spray seeds all over your greenhouse. Small Dorstenia plants pop up in other pots. Dorstenia foetida does this and is the most common species found in the market place. However, most of the other species are extremely rare and somewhat difficult to grow. Dorstenia gigas, from the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea, prefers a mild humid, but not rainy, coastal climate. It will wilt if exposed for extended periods to excessively high or low temperatures. Below is a short list of highly sought after Dorstenia species.
Growing Conditions Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade. Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water. Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long. Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide. At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window. Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly. Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC. Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic). Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts. Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aloe plants are native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of Aloe arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light. Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes. Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC. Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix. Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently. Repotting The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing. Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun. Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C). Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand. Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water. Repotting Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of Agave, including the famous Century Plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, Agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light. Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly. Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC). Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix. Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing. In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well known is the Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates it grows into a shrub. Many other Crassula species are much smaller. Some are miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder “What is that?” With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun to partial shade. Most needs some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. Water: As succulents, they don’t need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC. Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic). Fertilizer: Many people underfeed their succulents during the growing season. Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation Crassula are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings. Plants can be easily propagated from a single leaf: sprout leaves by placing them into a succulent or cacti mix, then covering the dish until they sprout.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips Crassula are easy to grow, but they are susceptible to mealy bugs and fungal diseases. As with all succulents, overwatering is sure to be fatal, so err on the side of too dry rather than too wet. Never let your Crassula sit in water. If you water from beneath by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water, make sure to pour off any excess water after a few minutes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
The succulent Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) grows wild in its native southern Africa, where it can reach 8 to 9 feet tall and spread about as wide. The fleshy oval leaves measure about 1 inch long at maturity. Mature stems are barklike, with softer tip growth. The plant responds to leaf pruning or removal by quickly sending out new, small leaves. Use this natural trait to your advantage with jade bonsai to keep the leaves in scale and to help keep a mature jade from becoming top-heavy.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners Rubbing alcohol Long tweezers Copper wire, optional. Tip Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dummer. ゛☀
Originally from Africa, the Jade Tree (Crassula ovata) is a fleshy, softly woody shrub or small tree up to 10 feet (3 m). The Jade Tree has a thick trunk and a fine branch structure with thick oval green succulent leaves. During autumn sometimes small white flowers appear, but only when the tree has experienced droughts in the season. The bark is green and soft when young, becoming red-brown when it ages.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn). Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture. Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
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