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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Echinopsis genus of cacti includes dozens of species from South America. This group includes large columnar cactus that were formerly in the genus Trichocerceus, as well as the smaller day-flowering species that were previously classified in the Lobivia genus. The large columnar cactus are beautiful, but they are generally far too large for indoor cultivation, so only the smaller day-flowering species are grown indoors and are now classified in the Echinopsis genus. These are generally small, round cacti with sharp spines and very colorful flowers. Extensive hybridizing has been done over the years to produce a variety of flower colors.
Growing Conditions Light: Like many cacti and succulents, the Echnopsis appreciate strong light during the growing season. Move plants outdoors if possible, but acclimate to direct sunlight slowly to prevent scorching. In the winter, a southern exposure is perfect. Water: Allow the soil mix to become nearly dry between waterings, but then water thoroughly. Immaculate drainage is essential, so never let the pots sit in water. Suspend watering in the winter, but mist occasionally. . Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal. Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation Echinopsis can be easily rooted from offsets, which tend to cluster around the base of the mother plant. Cut offsets close to the stem, at the narrowest possible place. When rooting cacti from cuttings, let the fresh cutting dry out slightly on a paper towel and cut the cacti at the narrowest place possible. After a few days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the cut surface, the cut surface should have dried out and formed a callous, or slightly rough opening. Once the callous has formed, place the cutting in a rooting mixture of fast-draining cacti soil. Keep the cutting barely moist and warm. New roots will form in a matter of weeks, either around the vascular bundles or the cut areoles near the cut. Once new roots are visible, pot the plant as a typical cacti and move it into your collection.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot. Be careful when handling Echinopsis as they have stiff spines.
Grower’s Tips If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the Echinopsis species without too much trouble. Like many cacti, they prefer a drying period between waterings, even to the point where they slightly wilt. When you water, however, you should water deeply. The plant will noticeably plump up. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Adenium obesum also known as Desert Rose, is a striking plant with swollen succulent stems and deep red flowers. The plant is deciduous in cooler winters, but it can be kept in leaf provided there is sufficient warmth and light water. There is no part of these plants that doesn’t command interest, from the dramatically swollen stems on older plants to the bright flowers to the tight clusters of narrow, green leaves. Beware, though, the sap of the Desert Rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window. Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves. Temperature: Keep at least 50ºF (10ºC) at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60ºF (16ºC) or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves. Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic). Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.
Propagation Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The Desert Rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for cacti and succulents.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root. The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves. Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter. Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night). Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand. Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gasteria is a relatively rare, Aloe-like succulent that goes by the unfortunate name of Ox Tongue (at least the Gasteria verrucosa species). Perhaps even more unfortunately, the plant is named for the sac-like shape of its flowers, which are supposed to resemble a stomach (get it … Gasteria?). The genus is native to South Africa, where they grow in lightly shaded conditions with excellent drainage. As a result, they are adapted to relatively lower light conditions than some more well-known succulents and are good houseplants. Depending on the species, Gasteria leaves are often marked with interesting patterns and coloration. One species, Gasteria verrucosa (G. carinata var. verrucosa), has wart-like protrusions on its leaves.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to Haworthia succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun. Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month, but do not stop watering. Never allow water to collect in between the leaves. Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C). During warmer weather, your Gasteria leaves might turn a lighter, brighter color or the plant might flower with small, colorful sac-shaped flowers. Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand. Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation Gasteria can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant or from leaf cuttings, depending on the species. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, and put it a warm, bright spot and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting Gasteria are small, shallow-rooted, and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips Gasteria are often grouped with Haworthia because the plants have similar cultural requirements. Both are attractive, small succulents that can tolerate somewhat more shade than many succulents, which makes them more suitable as houseplants. Gasteria are susceptible to fungal infections, which usually appear as black spots on the leaves. These are the result of too much humidity or water on the leaves, but they should not spread too quickly. Gasteria have a natural defense mechanism against such fungal attacks and attack the invading organism and seal off the wounded spot. In general, any place where Haworthia and Aloe thrive will be hospitable to a Gasteria.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the common names for Dudleya is “Liveforever”, which speaks volumes about this western North American genus that thrives on neglect. Some species reputedly live as long as fifty to one hundred years, others a “mere” twenty. This genus contains a number of California’s most rewarding succulents for use in horticulture. Its numerous species offer a dizzying array of leaf shapes, sizes, habits, and flower colors for the garden. Garden forms of Dudleyas come in two distinct types: branching and unbranching. Both types are ideal for succulent and rock gardens. Branching species develop multiple rosettes that form low, tufted colonies, while unbranched species produce a solitary rosette. The colony formers are valuable groundcovers in the front of a border, whereas the single rosettes make excellent container specimens and focal points in beds.
Growing Conditions Most of the myriad habitats Dudleyas occupy become dry in summer. Therefore, it is important to cut off water to Dudleyas in your garden during summer. Plants grown in sandy soils or containers are exceptions; they will accept infrequent summer watering as long as the soil drains well. The onset of fall or winter rains reawakens Dudleyas from drought-induced dormancy. Their shriveled leaves plump up quickly, growth resumes, and flowering occurs during the next spring or summer. Dudleyas are amazingly resilient; if a portion of a colony sloughs off a cliff face or is uprooted by a burrowing animal, it can persist for months until soil contact is reestablished. Species that naturally grow on ocean bluffs are also salt-spray tolerant.
Pests and Problems Dudleyas have their share of disease and pest problems. If you can prevent Argentine Ants from introducing mealybugs or aphids to your Dudleyas, they will be healthier. Mealybugs nestle in the deep recesses of the leaves, and their feeding weakens the plants. They may also be vectors, along with aphids, for a virus that disfigures the foliage. Aphids commonly attack emerging flower stalks, and should be washed off carefully with soapy water or a strong jet of water. Snails and slugs relish the juicy foliage of dudleyas and leave telltale holes. Avoid overwatering, which attracts these creatures and also favors root-rotting, soil-borne pathogens that may kill the plants. Provide ample air circulation to minimize fungal disease organisms, such as powdery mildew and Alternaria. Powdery mildew invades leaf tissues and causes browning and scarring of the upper surface; Alternaria produces ugly brownish black spots. Dudleyas are particularly susceptible to rot above ground if moisture accumulates in the rosette; plant them on a slight angle to drain water away more quickly. Only a handful of the roughly forty species of Dudleya are reliably available. Several species are quite rare in the wild and are now protected by law. Thankfully, a number of nurseries and botanic gardens continue to responsibly propagate many choice species. For greatest success in cultivation, choose species from your local area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lophophora is a genus of spineless, button-like cacti native to the southwestern United States (Texas and New Mexico) through Northeast Mexico and South to Querétaro in central Mexico. The species are extremely slow growing, sometimes taking up to thirty years to reach flowering age (at the size of about a golf ball, excluding the root) in the wild. Cultivated specimens grow considerably faster, usually taking between three to ten years to reach from seedling to mature flowering adult. The slow rate of reproduction and over-harvesting by collectors render the species under threat in the wild. Lophophora has been reported to comprise everything from one species, Lophophora williamsii with varieties, to the four species Lophophora diffusa, Lophophora fricii, Lophophora viridescens, and Lophophora williamsii. Most modern authorities consider Lophophora to be a genus of two species, L. williamsii and L. diffusa. L. williamsii, commonly known as Peyote, is noted for its psychotropic alkaloids. These alkaloids are absent or only found in extremely small amounts in the other species L. diffusa.
Growing Conditions Lophophora species easily adapt to cultivation. Although a cactus, most of the range this genus is found is within a subtropical climate for some portion of the year. In habitat plants in this genus are subject to seasonal monsoons within their range and the plants live in areas where they may be underwater for several weeks during heavy rains and can tolerate a lot of water when the temperatures are above 100 °F (38 °C). These plants are heat adapted and grow rapidly when exposed to temperatures of 110 to 120 °F (43 to 49 °C) and watered heavily in the summer. In habitat, plants from areas which experience seasonal monsoons and high temperatures such as southern Texas can reach flowering size in five years. During the fall and winter months, the plants receive almost no water in habitat and are subjected to temperatures which can drop somewhat below 20 °F (−7 °C) during the winter. The plants should not be watered during the winter rest or watered sparingly when they begin to shrink and wrinkle only enough to keep them turgid. Lophophora plants must be kept completely dry if they are subjected to temperatures below 40 °F (4 °C) as watering plants and subjecting them to below freezing temperatures will typically result in the death of the plant.
Seeding Seedlings grow most rapidly when enclosed in a sealed terrarium environment, having been germinated in trays of shallow sand covered with plastic wrap with several small pin sized holes in the plastic wrapping. This may seem strange for a cactus, but Lophophora seedlings are adapted to germinate and grow during the seasonal monsoons. Plants grown this way can reach a diameter of 2 inches (5 cm) in just over a year and can be removed from their hyper-humid environment approximately two months after germination. They will typically reach flowering size in just under three years via this method.
General Care Lophophora are closely related to the genera Ariocarpus, Aztekium, and Obregonia and like its relatives possesses a large taproot system with the majority of the plant’s mass underground for water storage. Lophophora is more tolerant of soil types than its relatives, and typically grows in areas which have decomposed limestone present in the soil. In cultivation, Lophophora does best in a fast draining mineral based soil which is about two thirds sand. Abundant water is beneficial in the summer months when the temperatures are over 90 °F (32 °C) and exposed to full sunlight for maximum growth, but must be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. They should also be fertilized twice a year. Over fertilizing will typically result in the Lophophora developing cracks and splitting. At times, some varieties of Lophophora will develop a corky material on the plant body if exposed to pesticides or insecticidal soap. This corky condition will usually heal in a manner very similar to human skin if the plants are exposed to full sunlight. Lophophora are free flowering in cultivation and although they can withstand low temperatures during winter they do not require a cold shocking in order to initiate flowering. Plants in habitat typically flower after rainstorms which have been preceded by a period of high temperatures and dry conditions. Plants in cultivation can be encouraged to flower by subjecting the plants to high temperatures, direct sunlight, and withholding water for several weeks, then watering heavily which will usually initiate flowering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Dummer. ゛☀
Senecio is a very large genus with over 1000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and some, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Some, like Dusty Miller, are tender perennials. This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios. Some are oddities and not really suited to the garden, but they are certainly interesting. There are some large shrubs, but many are small, either trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant. Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch them.
Growing Conditions Cold Hardiness: Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 – 11. A few can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush. Soil: Senecio doesn’t seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 – 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Propagating Senecio can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds prefer warm temperatures (55˚F / 13˚C). And constant moisture to germinate. Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
General Care Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth. Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings. Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests and Problems Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lifesaver plants are actually not members of the cactus family, although the tubercles — warty protuberances — that line the stem ridges can resemble the fierce spines that protect cacti. Lifesaver plants belong to the genus Huernia, low-growing succulents that are native to deserts from Southern and East Africa to Arabia. The common name comes from the conspicuous raised brightly colored ring that surrounds the middle of the star-shaped flower and resembles a red Lifesaver candy. Not all Huernias have this feature.
General Cultivation Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you are looking for a houseplant with a lot of character and personality, consider growing Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis). While it isn’t wrinkly or on social security, the plant does have fluffy white tufts of hair over the surface of the cactus body. The appearance is reminiscent of senior citizen pates, lightly cushioned by sparse, long billowy hair. Learn how to grow an Old Man Cactus and bring the cute little plant with the fuzzy white hairdo into your home. Growing Conditions This cactus can go outside in USDA hardiness zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants. Old Man Cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65˚F. (18˚C). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65˚F (18˚C). Propagating Old Man Cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children. Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70˚F (21˚C) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new Old Man Cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen. General Care Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old Man Cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease. Allow the top couple of inches of soil dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once or twice during the season. Fertilize with a cactus food in early spring and you might be rewarded with thick pink flowers. In the plant’s natural habitat it grows a 1 inch (2.5 cm) long fruit, but this is rare in captive cultivation. Old Man Cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Avid gardeners know that growing plants is a fine art. Many succulents are extremely hardy because they have fleshy parts in their structure to retain water, which makes them well suited to dry areas that receive little rain. However, they still require tender care and careful maintenance to achieve a splendid, healthy appearance. Both novice and more experienced gardeners can benefit from tips that help them to grow healthy succulents.
1. Use the sun Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure. 2. Take succulents outside A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential. 3. Give succulents some space As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution. 4. Ease off pruning Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry. 6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient. 7. Choose green succulents Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window. 8. Kill pests As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter. 10. Avoid ornate pots Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
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