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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti) are often grown as houseplants as they are relatively trouble-free. They produce large, showy flowers, which are usually sweetly-scented and last two days or more. Some species such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum are nocturnal – with their flowers opening during the night. Epiphyllum cacti are mostly epiphytic (they grow on other plants, but only use them as a support). They are often grown in hanging baskets to accommodate their long, pendent, leaf-like stems, but can be grown in containers.
Growing Conditions Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors. Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface. Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced. Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed: Sow seed in spring or summer; Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface; Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer; Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit; Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C); Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated; Keep the compost moist, but not wet; Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably; They will take four to seven years to flower. Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer. Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place; Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep; Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C); They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season. Pests and Problems Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Disocactus is a genus of epiphytic cacti in the tribe Hylocereeae found in Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America. It should not be confused with Discocactus, which is a different genus. Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length. Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae.
Growing Conditions Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material.
Propagation Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Grower’s Tips Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Orostachys is an Asian genus of monocarpic, rosette-forming succulents, similar in appearance to Echeveria, and Sempervivum, but it looks most similar to Aeonium. One of the major visible differences between Aeonium and Orostachys is that each leaf is tipped with a spine. It is a fast-growing succulent, with grey or green leaves forming small, globular rosettes. The small bell-shaped flowers are usually white or pink and grow densely packed on a conical inflorescense (which are really quite amazing to see, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall). Natively, the plant lives in Korea, China, Mongolia, and Northern Japan. Some species show amazing symmetry of the rosette. Orostachys spinosa is of note, as the leaf pattern follows a Fibonacci sequence.
Growing Conditions As with most similar genera of Crassulaceae, Orostachys survive in fairly poor soil, so long as it is well draining. This genera is very cold-hardy and can survive temperatures to -30° F (-34° C). Allow soil to dry to the touch between waterings, and avoid getting water on the rosettes. Orostachys requires some bright light. This plant doesn’t tolerate high humidity well. Orostachys grows actively in spring and summer. Propagation Orostachys self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. Propagation is primarily through offset separation. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
General Care Pruning: In general, this is a good plant to forget about. Leave it in a bright sunny location and water very sparingly. Water in the morning so as to prevent water from remaining on the leaves during the night. Remove any dead leaves from rosettes, as dead leaves invite rot and insects. When a rosette has flowered, it will die shortly. Problems: In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Orostachys may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in winter this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Are you one of those people who hangs his head in shame whenever we tout succulents as the easiest plants to grow? You’re not alone, trust me. Succulents, plants adapted to survive long periods with very little water, play by their own rule book. Here are some tips to help you keep your babies alive.
1. Give Them Breathing Room While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements. 2. Provide Some Shade Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays). 3. Start with the Right Soil Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix. 4. Low-water isn’t No-water Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks.
5. Include Drainage Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules. 6. Succulents Need Food, Too A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results. 7. Rethink Propagation While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go.
8. Beware of Frost While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are popular plants in both containers and in the landscape—and for good reason. They are low maintenance, drought-tolerant and super easy to maintain. Even “brown thumb” types can keep a succulent alive. Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries. If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it. It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them. When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged. Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil. Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves. Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day. You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors. Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location. Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.” Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation. If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants. The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail. If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Portulaca is a genus of the flowering plant family Portulacaceae, comprising about 40-100 species found in the tropics and warm temperate regions. They are also known as Purslane, Sun Plant, Rose Moss and Wax Pink. Common Purslane (P. oleracea) is widely considered an edible plant, and in some areas an invasive type of weed. Purslane can be eaten raw or cooked, and lends itself to stir fry dishes. Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sunlight Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil. Soil: Well-drained soil is the best. Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow. The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Conophytum are a group of miniature succulents prized by enthusiasts for their wide variety of forms, textures, and colors. Typically, they form clusters or grow in mats but some species are solitary. Bodies can be conical, oblong, or cylindrical, spotted or lined, velvety, warty, or windowed, and range in color from various shades of green and blue-green to brown and red. Some species are mistaken for Lithops. Anatomically, they are distinguished by conically united leaves and by their petals, which are fused into a basal tube, unlike most mesembs. Most conos flower in the autumn and display a rainbow range of colors. They can be divided into night-blooming, twilight-blooming, and day-blooming species. The flowers of some species are also scented.
Growing Conditions Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness. Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering. Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity. Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering.
General Care Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices. The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise.
Propagation Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Escobaria belongs to the family of Cactaceae, includes about 25 species and is native to the desert areas of the Atlantic and the North American continent (Canada and the southeastern United States, Mexico). The specimens of Escobaria minima and Escobaria sneedii have become very rare in nature and are legally protected species; in particular the Escobaria minima grows naturally only in a very narrow zone in Brewster County, Texas, on a specific substrate of novaculite. The genus especially passionate collectors of tiny and neat plants, with small, colorful and elegant flowers.
These plants are small in size and globular or cylindrical form presenting tubercles paths by a longitudinal groove. Fairly common basal offsets, giving a caespitose appearance. The blooms (daytime) occur during late spring or early summer and can be of many different colors depending on the species: purple, pink, red, green and even yellow.
Growing Conditions Light: Escobaria love to be in a very bright exposure, but generally not to direct light of sun: the risk, especially during the hottest hours of the day and during the summer, is to get sunburned. Soil: The soil to grow Escobaria, needs to be well drained, porous and aerated. Despite being small in size, the plants develop a branched root system with extremely thin and fragile tubercles: the fragility of the radical apparatus constitutes a preferential route for the development of mold and rot, in the presence of moisture excess.
Temperature: The average winter minimum temperature, in general, should not fall below 42 to 46 °F (6 to 8 °C), unless individual exceptions; adult plants can withstand frosts also very intense, but only if the temperature rises again quickly. Some species, due to the natural environment in which they were born and grew up, developed characteristics of extreme resistance (Escobaria minima resists up to 18 °F (-8 °C), Escobaria vivipara and Escobaria missouriensis resist even down to -4 °F(-20 °C), in completely dry soil conditions and low humidity): for this reason the Escobaria are considered, with precautions, as winter resistant.
General Care The Escobaria are very susceptible to rot and therefore require a well-drained soil, without any water excess or stagnation; it has been observed that the plants also suffer the environmental humidity, which should preferably remain very low (30-50%). Avoid watering during the winter, when the plant is dormant: watering Escobaria in cold environmental conditions will almost certainly lead to death of the plant. In the growing season the plants, whose growth is typically quite slow, like to perceive a significant temperature difference between night and day.
Propagation The experienced grower knows well the difficulties of survival of this genus, certainly not one of the easiest to grow. The seed germination rate is lower than other genus and in fact other methods of propagation are preferable, as a offsets or cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Melocactus is a genus of especially aesthetically interesting cacti, distinguishable by their odd cephalium that protrudes from the top. The cephalium, which is a bristly collection of aureoles, is designed to produce flowers and fruit and can grow up to three feet tall in some cases. Cephaliums are red or white and form small pink flowers inside their mass, and their fruits are waxy and shaped like tubes.
Because of their appearance, Melocactus are popular cacti in cultivation. They are native to places with high temperatures and cannot tolerate frost: in the wild, they grow in various parts of the Caribbean, South America (especially Brazil), and Mexico. Notably, Melocactus plants only develop their distinctive look once they reach maturity.
In the beginning of their lives, their appearance is typical of most cacti—they’re globular and ribbed all over with aureoles. They only develop the cephalium once they’re fully developed, and once it begins growing it won’t stop until the plant itself dies. So they can be hard to identify before they’ve reached maturity. They can be a bit of challenge due to some specificities in their care requirements and are a better choice for experienced cactus growers: nonetheless, they are quite beautiful and extraordinary once fully grown.
Growing Conditions Light: Lots and lots of bright sunlight is necessary for Melocactus to thrive. Water: For cacti, they like fairly moist environments, so water regularly, especially during the growing season. Make sure not to let them sit in water to avoid rotting the roots. Temperature: Warm tropical temperatures above seventy degrees. They cannot survive frost. Soil: Most cactus potting mixes should work fine, ideally a well-draining mix with some organic material. Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water during the growing season to help them develop.
Propagation These cacti are not difficult to propagate from seed. Plant the seeds in well-aerated soil that drains well, and make sure to soak them in warm water before you do. Then seal the new seeds to keep in heat and moisture, which will help them root. Their root systems will take a little while to develop, so don’t overwater or overfeed them before they have the necessary equipment. Remember, always use fresh seed—it should be dry when you get it, before it’s soaked.
Repotting Notably, Melocactus like to be fairly packed in, so keep them in a fairly small container that slightly constricts their roots. Repotting them at the beginning of the growing season is a good idea until they form cephaliums and the body stops growing, and they should be repotted like other cacti: by lifting the root ball out all at once, cleaning it gently, and replacing it. Make sure not to replant in too large a container to avoid damaging the plant.
Grower’s Tips These are somewhat finicky cacti with unusual requirements. They shouldn’t be allowed to completely dry out, even in winter, and they can suffer from soil composition, drainage, water level, sun, and more factors that are difficult to control. For that reason, these plants are best for growers who already have had some success cultivating cacti. Establish a balance with good aeration matched by ample water, good soil matched by good drainage, and these plants should continue to grow. If they’re grown successfully, their unusual tops make them among the more beautiful of desert cacti.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight. Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks. Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
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