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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Obregonia, the Artichoke Cactus, is a genus of cacti with a single species, Obregonia denegrii. It is found only within the Valley of Jaumave in the state of Tamaulipas in eastern Mexico. The Artichoke Cactus is found in semi-desert and shrubland at elevations of around 1970 – 2300 feet (600 – 700 m) above sea level. It is often found on rocky, gentle slopes in limestone gravel.
This small cactus is just visible above the surface of the ground, as the heads emerge only slightly from the larger underground root system. The distinctive appearance of the head, which has given rise to the common name of “Artichoke Cactus”, is formed by the spirally arranged, erect tubercles. At the tip of each, there are 3 – 4 flexible spines. White flowers emerge from the centre of the whorl of tubercles, and these develop into whitish-brown fruits if cross-pollination is successful.
This striking cactus produces flowers during the summer months. Fruits develop if the flowers are successfully fertilised through cross-pollination. The fruits dry and then split open, allowing the seeds to be washed away (and therefore dispersed) by rain. The Nahuatl Indians call the plant Peyotl, and it is said to have hallucinogenic alkaloids. It is one of the closest living relatives of the genus Lophophora. Growing Conditions Light: Requires ful sun to develop good compact growth. Water: Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter. Temperature: It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. Soil: Very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus).
Propagation Almost exclusively by seeds. But the seedlings are tiny and very slow growing and at first they take one or two years to reach the diameter of 0.1 – 0.2 inch (3 – 5 mm).
Grower’s Tips This slow growing cactus isn’t always the easiest species to cultivate, but can enlarge relatively fast when well grown. It is often seen as a grafted plant but grows very well on its own roots too. Needs a very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus). Requires full sun to develop good compact growth and watering should be rather infrequent, to keep the plant flat shaped and not become excessively elongated and unnatural in appearance. Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter, or when night temperatures remain below 50° F (10° C). It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity. Ensure a good ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Turbinicarpus is a genus of very small to medium-sized cacti, which inhabit the north-eastern regions of Mexico and are extremely popular among collectors. Certainly their small size and readiness to flower attribute to their popularity. As is typical of any group of plants that receives a lot of attention from hobbyists and researchers, many names are described for plants with even the slightest difference. This can be either at the level of subspecies or species.
The plants in this genus have small stems, often growing hidden in the soil in habitat. In cultivation, the plants are often solitary globose stems with distinct tubercles. Spines vary considerably from species to species. Flowers arise from the stem tips and range from white to dark pink. Growing Conditions Light: Turbinicarpus prefer to be in a well ventilated position in full sun to maintain a good body color and spinal development.
Water: The golden rule when it comes to watering Turbinicarpus species is “never water when the compost is still damp”. This is the one error that will certainly kill any plant! Watering should commence in the spring late March to early April depending upon the weather conditions at the time. The plants should initially be given a light spray to gently encourage them into growth. A number of species those with papery spines e.g. (Turbinicarpus schmiedickeanus) have the ability to absorb water through their spines. Never introduce water too quickly as the plants may take up too much and split. However, should this happen dust the wound with ‘Flowers of Sulphur’, and allow to form a callous. The plant should survive but it may take many years before the wound disappears below ground level. Once the plants have swollen after their winters rest amounts of water can be increased. Water thoroughly at each watering, this should be about every two weeks. Water sufficiently to ensure it runs from the bottom of the pot but try not to water over the plant, especially if it is a hot sunny day as this can scorch the plant. Always choose a bright sunny day to water and do so in the early morning to allow excess moisture to dry up as soon as possible. As I mentioned earlier, but well worth repeating, don’t water again until to compost has completely dried out. If you are in doubt don’t water. During a hot mid-summer period, the plants may go into dormancy for a short time, during this period reduce the water levels. Reduce watering early September and stop watering completely by the end of September – early October depending on the weather. The plants should then remain completely dry for the autumn and winter period.
Temperature: Turbinicarpus species are all able to withstand high summer temperatures and indeed benefit, providing accompanied by good ventilation. Do not be tempted to overcrowd the plants, they will be far happier with a little space to allow the air to circulate. Winter temperatures can be set as low at 44-46 °F (7-8 °C) and providing the plants are kept dry and the humidity levels are also kept low, by good ventilation on bright days. Indeed the plants need these low temperatures to ensure a sustained dormant period resulting in good growth and flowering the following growing season. Fertilizer: Do not overfeed! Overfeeding and indeed over watering will produce bloated unnatural looking plants looking nothing like the species in habitat. Remember these are miniature plants and should therefore remain so. I endeavour to grow my plant to closely mimic their appearance in habitat and not to get the biggest plants. One liquid feed per year using a general cactus fertiliser applied during the spring is probably all that is needed.
Repotting Repotting is best carried out once every two years in early spring although this can actually be at any time of the year with caution. Either clay or plastic pots can be used remembering clay pots will dry out quicker. The majority of Turbinicarpus species will require a deep pot to accommodate the taproot once the plant has matured, up to this time shallow pots can be used. Always use a dry compost mix especially if choosing to re-pot during the dormant period. Always ensure the plant is dry in the pot before attempting to re-pot.
Propagation Unfortunately as the majority of the species are solitary they do not produce offsets there cuttings are not an option. Fortunately the majority of the species are easily propagated from seed and success levels are generally quite good. Seedlings tend to grow away quite quickly and can produce flowering sized plants within just a few years.
Pests and Problems From my experience Turbinicarpus species do not seem to be that susceptible to pests although I have experienced red spider mite and mealy bug over the years. The one disease that all Turbinicarpus species are susceptible to is rot, which can easily kill any plant within just a few days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ariocarpus is one of the succulent plants in the group commonly referred to as a Living Rock. It can survive without water for up to a year. Even though a plant like that seems foolproof, there are many things you can do to improve its health.
Growing Conditions Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason. Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine. Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter. Repotting As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leuchtenbergia principis (Agave Cactus or Prism Cactus), the sole species of the genus Leuchtenbergia, is a species of cactus native to the Chihuahaun desert in central and northern Mexico. While it has a fairly wide distribution, it is never common in any locality, typically having widely dispersed individual plants. In habitat, plants almost invariably grow in association with grasses, Yuccas, or Agaves, where their distinctive tubercles and paper-like spines help to camouflage them. The fragrant flowers of this plant are large, to over 3 inches (7.5 cm) across, with attractive, satiny, pale-yellow petals. Individual flowers may only last 2 or 3 days each, but are typically produced in succession so that the total display may last intermittently through the summer months. Flowers arise from the areoles at the tips of young tubercles – mostly (if not exclusively) on the current year’s growth. This species is closely related to Ferocactus, and plants of the two genera are sometimes hybridized – presumably producing some rather unusual looking hybrids.
Propagation Agave Cactus is usually propagated by seeds, as it rarely pup or have offsets. It has been reported that the plants can be propagated by tubercle cuttings, but this method is not common. Grower’s Tips The Agave Cactus is a reasonably easy and tolerant plant, and should grow well given the basic guidelines for growing cacti and other succulents. However, this is a desert species, which is adapted to arid conditions, and seems to benefit from intense solar radiation. It should always be moved to a position outside during the warmer months of spring through early fall to benefit from exposure to direct sunlight, and the increased temperatures of summer. Grown exclusively indoors, this species will slowly languish from the comparatively low light levels of interior spaces, and will probably never really thrive. Grown outdoors, this plant has proven to be a reliable bloomer, invariably producing intermittent blooms from late June through September. Despite its desert origins, Agave Cactus tolerate a remarkable amount of rain through their outdoor growing season, but due to their large, turnip-like roots, they can be very susceptible to root rot when exposed to extended cool and wet conditions, so the potting medium should be especially gritty to provide that extra drainage necessary for this species, and extra care should be given through the winter months to prevent over-watering this species. Many growers do not water this plant at all in the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ceropegia contains a diverse group of 160 named species native to Africa, southern Asia, and Australia. Some of these perrenial plants have succulent stems, which may be dwarf or vine-like and posess fibrous roots, while others have tubers and relatively thin stems, along which new tubers may form in some species. Species with fleshy thickened roots are the most difficult to grow. The leaves are opposite, but may be vestigal on species with succulent stems.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade. Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water. Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering. Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought. Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Aloe vera plant grows on kitchen windowsills across the United States. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11, Aloe vera is grown outdoors in mild winter locations along the West Coast, the Southwest and the South. A native of Africa, it thrives in warm, mild climates outdoors or as a houseplant in brightly lit windows and sunrooms. With sufficient light, water and fertilizer, a mature Aloe vera may produce a spike, up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall with yellow flowers in late winter. The real Aloe vera has yellow flowers, but many of the clones available have orange flowers.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming. Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom. Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom. Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks. Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room. Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are an invaluable plant, because they are beautiful and nearly indestructible. Succulents are water-retaining and are adapted to arid climates and soil conditions. High temperatures and low precipitation have forced these plants to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots. This adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of different leaf forms and plant shapes.
Some of the best known succulents are cacti, which are a unique subgroup that has evolved into many different species. The Succulents also includes some well known plants such as Aloe and Agave. No matter which variety of succulent you are growing, however, their requirements are very similar: Size and Placement Place the largest most dramatic first and the smaller ones around them. Remember many succulents can’t be cut to a lower height after they have grown. When placing plants think about how tall the plant will get in the location.
Why are some succulents smaller and more expensive than the larger succulents? The smaller varieties generally grow slower than the faster growing varieties thus they are often older. Temperature Succulents can handle the cold as well as the heat. Just like the desert which can have cold nights, a succulent can live in temperatures down to even 40 degrees F (5 degrees C).
Light Succulents prefer light such as in the open garden or in a south-facing window. Some species will scorch if exposed to direct sunlight and the leaves will change to a brown or white as the tissues are destroyed. Watch the leaves as an indication of if the sun exposure is correct. A succulent without enough light, however, will begin to stretch with an elongated stem. If this happens, provide better light and prune your succulent back to its original shape.
Water Succulents will need more water in the summer and during establishment. Water generously but allow the soil to dry in-between watering. This is why good drainage is important. In winter, the plant will go dormant so water it every other month. If you over-water you could cause plant rot. The succulent may look healthy at first during over-watering, but eventually will die as the rot has begun in the roots and isn’t showing above ground yet.
Over-Watering Over-watered succulents will look discolored and soft—yellow or white with loss of color. Remove it from the pot and look for rotted roots. Rotted roots should be cut off and replant your succulent in a drier area. Under-Watering Under-watered succulents will stop growing and shed leaves or generate brown spots on their leaves.
Planting/Potting Soils Your succulents should be planted in a soil that provides for good drainage. Succulents will benefit from an inorganic agent like perlite which will help aeration and drainage. Fertilizer Fertilize during summer growing season but stop entirely during the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Ariocarpus has been the subject of much affection and attention by growers and botanists, but also has been surrounded by many myths that persist to date which I would like to challenge from the very beginning.
1. Contrary to popular belief Ariocarpus do not present any special problems in cultivation. Granted, these plants require a little more attention (or rather neglect) than your average cactus but there are many others far more difficult to grow. An Ariocarpus, if cared for properly, will grow steadily and flower reliably.
2. Cultural advice like “grow in full sun” and “give at least two hefty waterings in the growing season” (Needham, 1983) may very well explain the descriptive term “living fossils” often applied to Ariocarpus plants. In my Mediterranean climate Ariocarpus certainly appreciate some shading and require as much water as all other cacti, especially if grown in clay pots.
3. “Ariocarpus are the slowest growing cacti”. Well, they are particularly slow in childhood, but a 4 inches (10 cm) A. retusus can be grown in about five years, which beats many other cacti. If you want to experience “slow” try some Aztekium from seed.
4. “The minimum time to grow from seed to flowering size is probably ten years, and may well be twice that” (Weightman, 1991). Actually, A. agavoides will eagerly flower at three years from seed and most species will flower by the age of five or six years. 5. “Ariocarpus seedlings are exceptionally prone to rot.” In my experience this is not true, in fact, I have come to realize that Ariocarpus seedlings benefit, more so than other cacti seedlings, from a humid closed environment during their first year of growth. This was actually the cornerstone in developing a reliable method for raising it from seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you see a Rose Cactus (Pereskia) while it is dormant in the winter, you’ll have no trouble believing it’s in the cactus family. Leaves drop off in cold weather, revealing the bare green stem armed with the same kind of spines you’ll see in Rose Cactus’ succulent desert relatives. In summer, when bright green 8-inch-(20 cm)-long leaves and pink, white, yellow or coral flowers cover the stems, it looks like a broadleaf shrub. The genus Pereskia is native to South and Central America and has about 24 species.
Plant Description Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Native to South Africa, these clump forming succulent plants have similarities with the Aloe plants and they’re related with the same subfamily. There are also subspecies grown.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall. The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes. Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem). Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C). Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out. Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice. Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter. Repotting Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
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