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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Rosularia is a rosette forming member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). They closely resemble other rosette forming Crassulaceae such as Sempervivum and Echeveria, although they are more closely related to the genus Sedum.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common. Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die. Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C). Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette. It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring. Pruning No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Pests and Problems In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting. This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Uncarina is a genus of plant in family Pedaliaceae. Originating in Madagascar, the deciduous shrub may sometimes be considered a small tree as it grows to 25 feet (7.6 m) tall. Leaves are oval and green and flowers bell-shaped and tubular. Uncarina blooms easily, and when covered with flowers, it is a striking vision. The seed capsules feature small hooked harpoons.
There are about 15 species and all species are in cultivation. There are three flower colours to be found: red, white and yellow. The latter is the most common. Only one species has a true caudex, Uncarina roeoesliana. It is also the easiest one to flower; it can already flowers when still small. The rarest is Uncarina leptocarpa, the only white-flowering species.
Growing Conditions Light: This heat resistant plant does best when grown in part shade to full sun. Temperature: Uncarinas are tender, cannot endure temperatures below 35 2° F (2° C), if grown outdoors they will probably grow back from roots, if frozen. They are quite heat tolerant. Water: Water abundantly when actively growing and keep dry when dormant. Soil: Uncarina needs a rich, very well drained potting soil. Fertilizer: Use diluted fertilizer on young plants to speed up growth.
Grower’s Tips One reason that Uncarinas are not common in cultivation is that the seed does not germinate easily. Why this is, we do not know. Propagation by cuttings is not a substitute because they do not root easily either. In short: a difficult sort to propagate. But, once you have managed to get yourself one, it is relatively easy to grow. It needs plenty of warmth and plenty of water in the growing season, but keep it dry in the winter. In the wild they can grow up to 13 feet (4 m), but do not expect that in your greenhouse or window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Weird, peculiar, wonderful, strange, bizarre, fascinating, and of course, unique, are the kind of words that are used to describe the Welwitschia. It is one of the few things on Earth that can truly claim to be one of a kind. There really is nothing like it.
Welwitschia mirabilis is the only member in the family Welwitschiaceae. It was named after Friedrich Welwitsch, an Austrian naturalist who explored Africa in the 1800’s. Welwitschia is the most incredible plant that he encountered. It is native to a strip of land about 50 miles wide and over 500 miles in length along the coast of the Namib Desert.
In habitat, these plants get less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rainfall per year. But because of a cold, coastal ocean current, this area also gets a regular fog, adding almost another 2 inches (5 cm) of precipitation. As a result, these plants in nature are slow growing and can live to be 2000 years old! They are coning plants with male and female cones on separate plants. They produce only two true leaves in their lifetime and those leaves continually grow from the base, all the while, dying back and drying off at the tips. Welwitschia is not a true succulent, yet it is the succulent growers and enthusiasts that are most interested in it. It is caudiciform, yet is not often included in accounts of these plants as it belongs in the “wrong” family!
Growing Conditions When growing Welwitschia there are a few important factors to take into consideration: the long taproot, its dependence on extra moisture and the soil used. Plants from arid regions are often lost to fungal infection caused by soil with a high organic content. It is safer to use a sandy mixture, water more frequently and give supplementary feedings. It is also recommended to use sterilized soil. Older plants tend to accumulate organic debris around themselves which enriches the soil and acts as a mulch, helping to retain water in the upper layers of the sand for longer.
Propagation Seed should be sown during the warmer months, spring or summer. In habitat the seeds are dispersed in spring, but have to wait for rain to fall before they germinate. It is best to sow seed into a large, deep (at least 12 inches (30 cm), preferably more) container or into an open bed where the plant is intended to remain, because the taproot grows quite fast in the initial stages. If using a container, remember to place a layer of gravel or rocks at the bottom to ensure good drainage. The soil must be sandy and well-drained, e.g. 2 parts sand : 1 part loam : 1 part compost (leaf mould) with ample bonemeal, well mixed and sterilized. Moisten the soil thoroughly before sowing. If using a container, sow two or three seeds per container, near the centre. If more than one germinates, it can be transplanted in its first month, or left to form interesting graft complexes with its sibling. If you have an open bed, scatter them evenly over the surface. Place the seed on top of the soil and just cover it with a layer of sand. Water well and keep in a warm sunny situation. It is important to add a mild fungicide, like Captan, to the water during the first year as it will prevent fungal attack. Keep the soil moist until the seeds have germinated.
The placement of the ungerminated and germinating seedlings is also important. Choose a well-aerated, warm atmosphere, preferably in filtered sunlight. The plants are very sensitive to sudden changes in light intensity. Never move a plant from a shady situation to full sun, the leaves will burn and the plant may never recover and die. So when moving your plant, make sure that you gradually harden it off to brighter light.
Grower’s Tips At first glance it would appear that Welwitschia would be almost impossible to grow, but this is only partly true. Welwitschias can be grown easily, even as pot plants and even on window sills and verandas in cooler climates. Once established, the plant will grow steadily and is relatively disease free. The most crucial stage is during its first eight months after germination when it is prone to fungal attack. Also, as it is not a true succulent, it should not be treated as one. It is dependent on additional water from its roots and if grown in a pot, care should be taken that the soil does not dry out completely.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Xerosicyos is a flowering plant genus of the family Cucurbitaceae. Its name comes from Greek “xeros”, (meaning “dry”) and “sicyos” (meaning “cucumber”). There are three species, all endemic to Madagascar.
Xerosicyos danguyi is a large liana with thick stems and round, gray succulent leaves. It is common in cultivation and often called the “Silver Dollar” vine. Xerosicyos perrieri is also a liana with thinner stems and smaller, ovate green succulent leaves. Xerosicyos pubescens is entirely different from the previous species. It forms a large caudex from which deciduous vines emerge. The leaves are lobed and semi-succulent and die back in the dry season and during prolonged periods of drought.
Growing Conditions Light: A location with full sun is best, although Xerosicyos can grow in partial shade. Temperature: During the winter months, Xerosicyos are kept at a temperature of around 41-48°F (5-9°C) and are watered only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. USDA hardiness zone 9-11.
Water: They are extremely drought tolerant. A deep soaking once a month in the summer will keep the plant looking good. For pot culture in summer, during the vegetative period, it must be regularly watered, but allowing the soil to completely dry up before watering again (but do not overwater). In winter, it’s to be kept dry. Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days. Soil: Xerosicyos adapts to most soil types, but not too heavy in texture; good drainage is desirable. If grown in a pot as an indoor plant use a succulent plants soil.
Fertilizer: Low food needs. They should be fertilized only once during the active growing period. Propagation It is easily propagated by cuttings or by seed in spring. Cuttings grow easily once left to callous for several days and then planted in succulent soil. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days at 21°C.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Yucca are desert plants native to the Southwestern United States, Mexico and Central America. They’ve also bee naturalized throughout the Southern United States. As far as houseplants go, they are probably eclipsed by the similar-looking Dracaena genus (which is often mistaken for Yucca). They are, however, interesting and slow-growing houseplants that have the added benefit of being extremely drought tolerant.
If you kill a Yucca, it’s probably due to overwatering. Over time, most species will grow into room-devouring monsters, but this takes long enough that they provide years of durable service as a houseplant. One word of caution, however: one of the popular species, Yucca aloifolia has very sharp spines on its leaf-tips that could potentially cause injury.
Spineless species are much more suited for indoor cultivation. Growing Conditions Light: Bright, unfiltered sunlight. Yucca thrive in full sunlight, so they’re perfect for that west-facing window where everything else burns up. Water: They are highly sensitive to water-logging. Water regularly in the spring and summer growing season, but make sure the plant has excellent drainage and dries between waterings. Water sporadically in the winter. Never let a plant sit in a tray of water. Temperature: Widely variable. Yucca are adapted to the desert, where temperatures can soar into the 90°F (32°C) or higher and down into the 30°F (-1°C) at night. Soil: A loose, well-drained potting mix. Fertilizer: Fertilize during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or controlled-release fertilizer according to label instructions.
Propagation The easiest way to propagate Yucca is with offsets of older plants. Divide the plant during repotting or carefully slice away the offset and pot up into a separate container. They can also be propagated by stem cuttings, using pieces of stem of at least 4 inches (20 cm) and rooting hormone. Yucca grown indoors will likely not flower or bear seeds.
Repotting Yucca are relatively slow-growing plants that should only need to be repotted every other year. They do well slightly pot-bound, as long as they don’t become heavy enough to tip over their containers. Repotting larger plants can be difficult, so larger plants can be refreshed with new potting soil by digging out the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the container and adding new soil. During typical repotting, remove the Yucca plant from its container and go up one container size. Always use fresh potting soil.
Grower’s Tips Under the right conditions, Yucca are not difficult plants to grow. They tend to thrive on a little neglect, rather than too much attention. They are especially easy to overwater, and soggy stems are a sign of too much water. The best conditions for Yucca include a sunny corner with relatively low humidity. They are not prone to many pests, although scale can be an issue. Over time, plants will typically lose their lower leaves (in nature, they droop, forming a skirt around the trunk), giving the plant a pleasant “tree-like” appearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
A small genus of two species, Neowerdermannia is a genus of spiny globose cacti which are very similar to the genus Gymnocalycium. Flowers are bourne near the apex and have naked floral tubes with scales – eiter white or pink. The fruits are globose and dehiscent.
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked. The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade. Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time. Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering. Propagation Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost. Grower’s Tips Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you are planting winter-hardy varieties, such as Sedum sp., Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum sp.), Ice Plant (Delosperma sp.), Yucca (Yucca sp.), you shouldn’t have to worry about any extra winter care. You may see them begin to wither, shrink, or change color as cold weather approaches, but this is part of their normal winter routine. These plants withstand freezing temperatures, with some varieties hardy down to zone 3.
For less hardy varieties, the problem during the winter is the deadly combination of cold temperatures and waterlogged, soggy soil from rains and snow melt. Many varieties will withstand colder temperatures if the soil can be kept dry enough. Some tips for caring for tender succulents during freezing weather include: Keep the soil as dry as possible. Stop supplemental watering and feeding around late fall. Be sure there is adequate air circulation, to keep the winter dampness at bay.
Plant succulents in sheltered areas if your winters are rainy – a good spot might be a sunny location underneath the eaves or porch. Make sure your soil has good drainage – if you notice soggy soil around your succulents during wet weather, you need to improve the conditions to help your plant survive. Add sand, well-draining organic matter, or a product such as Perma-Till to increase water drainage.
Cover tender plants when freezing temperatures are forecasted. You can use fabric covers, bushel baskets, or purchased frost covers. Just make sure the covers do not touch the leaves, and don’t keep them covered any longer than necessary – they need air circulation and sunlight. Don’t remove snow cover – it’s a good insulator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Discocactus is a genus of cacti, highly prized by collectors around the globe. Exactly what it is that makes them so attractive is uncertain. Some of the factors are likely their relatively compact size, unique and showy white flowers, and their slow growth. The species within this genus are flattened to globose in shape with stems that hardly exceed 3 inches (7.5 cm) in height and are less than 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. Stems are ribbed and sometimes tuberculate with fuzzy areoles or dense spines. Most plants remain single, but may form clumps. Flowering plants form a wooly terminal cephalium out of which rise the flowers on the end of a long, thin floral tube. The nocturnal flowers are highly fragrant and touted by many growers as the best smelling of all cactus flowers. Discocactus blooms in summer, on and off. The flowers are generally white and open in late afternoon until the following morning.
Growing Conditions Light: Discocactus will take full sun, but prefers a little shade in the afternoon. Water: Water with extreme care after the compost has dried out. Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots (46°F/8°C if grafted). Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, 50% compost to 50% gravel, perlite or pumice.
Grower’s Tips This is probably one of the most difficult cacti to keep growing on its own roots and is almost always seen as a grafted plant. If growing on its own roots is attempted the soil must be extremely free draining, and watering should only take place after the compost has dried out and then only on sunny and warm days. Discocactus are tropical species, and should be kept warm in winter. The grafted plants are less cold sensitive, but none has any frost tolerance. Mature Discocactus stop growing, and instead divert their energy into growing a cephalium. The cephalium is a specialized flowering head, generally covered with fibers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1,5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro Cactus already grow.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food. Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ortegocactus is a cactus genus that consists of only one species that was discovered relatively recently in the second half of the 20th century. It grows in a very small area on limestone in Oaxaca, Mexico. Ortegocactus macdougallii is the only species, and an exceedingly rare greenish grey clumper. Though its now showing up in cultivation. The 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) heads offset profusely and these offsets can be used for propagation along with seeds. The plant is self fertile and only one is needed to produce fruits and seeds. The flowers come in spring or summer and are yellow.
An interesting characteristic of this plant is the beautiful gray-green dermis, which is notably porous and has a skin-like appearance. Like so many of the small species of Mexican cacti, Ortegocactus is highly prized by collectors. However, as these plants age, they tend to develop rust-colored spots on them even in the care of the most accomplished growers.
Growing Conditions and General Care Ortegocactus macdougallii likes light shade to full sun. It is often grafted since it is tricky to grow when on its own roots. Water moderately in summer and very carefully if at all in winter. It show a distinct intolerance to over watering either by rotting off, or by bursting of the epidermis. Grow Ortegocactus in a fast draining mineral mix. To prevent growing a monster totally out of proportion to their attractive and natural form, you should limit the fertilizer.
Propagation Very slow from seed. Many authors recommend grafting, first on Pereskiopsis and soon on Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If it does not reject the stock, it is possible to be cultivated without problems. If we prefer to cultivate it on its own roots, we can maintain intact its characteristics without deformities, grafted plants clump readily and the offsets can be used for make cuttings.
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