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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Pachypodiums are succulent plants such as the cactus, but the basic difference is that the Pachypodiums have visible leaves, in some species the leaves are even very large in relation to plant (For example Pachypodium rutenbergianum, Pachypodium lamerei). This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots. The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant. All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die. The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again. The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The plants listed below are generally reliable and of easy culture, as long as you remember that no succulent plant likes to have prolonged moist soil; the potting mix should allow good drainage. Also, most succulents like quite bright light — they are not shade-loving plants. Those on this list are mostly smaller species that live amongst rocks or under other plants in nature, and therefore can tolerate somewhat lower lighting conditions. There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners. All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia. Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth. Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced. Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months. Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time. Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus. Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter. Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors. Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors. Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration. Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar. Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers. Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group. Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants. Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves. Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant. In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together. “Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The genus Stapelia comprises a challenging and rewarding group of some 50 species of clump-forming stem succulents from southern Africa. The leafless four-angled stems have toothed edges and may be pubescent. Stems grow erect, branching mainly from the base, and may develop a reddish colour in strong sunlight.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers. The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun. A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Parodia genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. After a reorganization of the genus, the Parodia genus now includes plants that were formerly known as Notocactus, Eriocactus, and Brasilicactus. Parodia are native to central South America, where they enjoy somewhat more moisture than most people associate with cacti. They are also not full-sun plants, but especially during the summer months of strong sun they appreciate some daytime shade. Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons. Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out. Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal. Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aichryson is a genus of about 15 species of small tender succulent plants and sub-shrubs, of which 10 species are Canary Islands endemics and others are from the Azores, Madeira and Morocco.
They are related to the Canary Islands genera Aeonium and Monanthes which also have polymerous (many-parted) yellow flowers. The succulent leaves are pubescent to densely hairy. The inflorescence is a loose raceme of dozens to hundreds of yellow to greenish-yellow star-shaped flowers.
Aichryson grow as understory plants in the endemic laurel and pine forests of the Canary Islands and prefer to grow in slightly shaded moist soil with plenty of humus. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter kept fairly dry. Some species are annuals or biennials, but the shrubby perennials also need to be re-started from cuttings on a regular basis to be at their best. Many species produce volunteer seedlings around themselves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care Aichrysons are very tolerant of mixed conditions and will tolerate considerable shade as well as full sun. Given the right conditions these plants will provide an incredible show of yellow flowers. Grow these plants hard with very little fertilizer because they can flower them selves to death. Aichrysons have a very structural trunk and make excellent bonsai subjects. In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gymnocalycium, commonly called Chin Cactus, is a genus of about 70 South American species of cacti. The genus name Gymnocalycium (from Greek, “naked calyx”) refers to the flower buds bearing no hair or spines. Their main area of distribution is Argentina, part of Uruguay, Paraguay, southern Bolivia and part of Brazil. Most species are rather small varying from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) in size. In cultivation they are popular for their easy flowering habits, and the flowers are generally brightly coloured. Where temperatures fall below 50 °F (10 °C) they must be cultivated under glass with heat. Gymnocalycium plants in general present no problems in cultivation, and will respond well if potted on regularly every two or three years, to make flowering size plants fairly quickly, some within two years from seed, and will provide some of the finest spination in the Cactaceae family.
Growing Conditions Light: Some Gymnocalyciums are shade-seeking in the wild, among shrubs or grasses, while others grow completely exposed. Some will therefore need a light shading from the sun in the hottest months, but to overdo this will result in loss of flowers. Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering. Water: Watering in the summer months, while the plants are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Propagation Those species which produce offsets can be readily propagated by cuttings. Gymnocalycium seed germinates well when fresh, and will keep for a few years if stored in cold conditions.
Grafting It is not usually necessary to graft Gymnocalyciums, except for chlorophyll-less, or strongly variegated plants, but it may be resorted to in order to grow on seedlings of slow-growing species more quickly or to propagate more easily solitary or cristate plants. Flat grafting seems to be the most commonly used these days, and it really is the easiest to do. The best time for grafting is when both the stock (the bottom part, usually a cereoid cactus) and the scion (the top part, i.e. the Gymnocalycium you are grafting) are actively growing, usually from about April to August.
Pests and Diseases As much as any other cacti, Gymnocalyciums suffer from the persistent pest, mealybug, in both its forms. Gymnocalyciums, like other cacti will suffer from fungal disorders if overwatered, but often only the root system will collapse, leaving you the job of cutting out any rot in the base of the plant, and dusting with a fungicide powder before rerooting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cotyledon is a genus of 10 species of perennial shrubby leaf and stem succulents with numerous varieties and cultivars. Mostly from Southern Africa, they also occur throughout the drier parts of Africa as far north as the Arabian peninsula. Cotyledon has been a catch-all genus including species from Echeveria, Rosularia, Tylecodon and Umbilicus, now all grouped separately. Tölken (1978) separated 47 species of Tylecodon with seasonal, spirally-arranged leaves from Cotyledon with perennial leaves. The name Tylecodon is an angram of Cotyledon.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer. Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer. Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape. Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous. As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet. Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label. Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Though the term “cereus” once referred to any columnar species of cactus with an elongated body, today Cereus is a more specific genus of about fifty species and many of the cacti that were once considered Cereus cacti are now in other genera. Today, Cereus cacti are distinguished by their columnar growth habit, with ribs that spines protrude from. Since the genus was formed by removing other species from it, it includes some diversity – many species are classified as Cereus simply because they were not given any other genus.
This leads to some cacti being included that don’t fit the typical Cereus profile, like the thin C. albicaulis and C. insularis. Nonetheless, there is a basic template that most – but not all – Cereus cacti fit: they’re large, tree-like cacti with defined ribs and aureoles that require slightly richer, more moist soil than a typical cactus. Atypically for cacti, Cereus should not experience drought during their growing season in the summer, although they can tolerate lower water supply in winter. They produce long, fleshy, edible fruits that are generally red. These cacti are good for a succulent or rock garden where they have room to grow because they can be fairly large; for instance, the Hedge Cactus, or C. peruvianus (C. repandus), grows to about ten feet tall and its monstrose form is popular for its idiosyncratic, divided ribs. Most of these cacti are too large to grow inside, but younger specimens can be kept inside until they mature, and most plants in the genus are slow-growing. If you do keep Cereus inside in containers before moving them outside, be careful of their sharp spines when moving them.
Growing Conditions Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Water: Cereus plants need slightly more water than most other cacti, and their soil should usually be kept moist during the growing season. Temperature: Though hot temperatures are best, most of these are hardy plants that can tolerate down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius). Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Cereus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. Some recommend avoiding a soil that contains sphagnum moss, though – it can make the cactus vulnerable to root rot. Fertilizer: They should be fertilized during their growing season in the summer with a good cactus fertilizer.
Propagation Cereus cacti propagate quite easily from cuttings; simply sever a branch and replant in moist, well-drained soil. It helps to allow the cut end dry out and harden before you replant it; this makes it easier for the new cactus to form roots.
Repotting It may become necessary to repot your Cereus if it outgrows its container. If so, make sure the soil is dry and then remove the pot. Knock away old soil and prune away any rotted or dead roots, then replace it in a new pot and backfill with new soil. Make sure not to overwater cacti planted in new pots, as this can lead to root rot – it should be left dry for about a week and then watered lightly.
Grower’s Tips Like most cacti, Cereus are fairly low-maintenance and hardy. Make sure they receive enough water without becoming waterlogged, especially during the summer, and fertilize them for best results. If the roots have become black or overly soft, the cactus could be experiencing root rot – cut away the affected parts and replant. Most gardeners interested in cacti should be able to cultivate these without much problem.
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