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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow the most during the spring and summer. Once fall rolls around the plants like to take a break. During their fall/winter dormant period, watering should be reduced.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot. Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents require well-draining soil that allows air to circulate around the roots. Without these qualities, succulents are prone to rot, which often results in the death of the plant. Although commercial potting mixtures for succulents are readily available, making a potting mixture ensures the quality of the mixture and provides flexibility for experimentation. Depending on the size of the batch, combine ingredients in a large bowl, bucket, bushel basket or clean garbage can.
Soil An effective potting soil for succulents consists of two parts soil or soil substitute. A soil-free commercial potting mixture is recommended for homemade potting soil, because the soilless mixture is lightweight, porous, free of weeds and presterilized to remove disease and bacteria often found in garden soil. Good-quality garden topsoil is appropriate if it is sterilized before mixing it with other ingredients. To sterilize garden soil, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). Spread the soil in a baking pan and heat it for 20 minutes. Stirring the soil every five minutes heats it evenly and prevents scorching.
Peat Moss A potting soil for succulents benefits from the inclusion of two parts peat moss. Peat moss is too acidic to be used as a potting mixture on its own, but when incorporated into soil and other ingredients, it promotes moisture retention and nutrient absorption while providing ample air circulation around growing roots.
Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep succulents healthy and thriving. Sand A ratio of one part clean sand provides a gritty, coarse texture to a potting soil mixture that enhances the air circulation and moisture drainage required by succulent plants. Sand is also beneficial because it anchors succulents and prevents them from becoming dislodged in loose, lightweight potting mixture. A coarse builder’s sand is preferable, because beach and sandbox sand are too finely textured and dense.
Perlite Incorporate one part perlite into the potting mixture to add air space. Perlite, inexpensive and easily located in most garden centers, is a granular, white, puffy volcanic rock that improves drainage and prevents compaction of the potting mixture. Vermiculite, also a volcanic byproduct, is a suitable substitute for perlite but is often more expensive. Alternatively, use crushed charcoal in place of perlite or vermiculite.
Additives A small amount of limestone, rich in calcium and magnesium, balances soil pH and makes soil nutrients more available to the succulents. Similarly, bonemeal supplies phosphate, which stimulates root growth. Use approximately 2 ounces of limestone and 2 ounces (57 gr) of bonemeal for every 4 gallons (15 l) of potting mixture.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti require little water and few nutrients to grow and thrive. A standard potting soil retains too much moisture, which can cause the cactus roots to rot. Most potting soils also come with nutrients added in the form of compost or fertilizers, which can negatively impact the cactus.
Making your own soil mixture ensures the plants receive the proper drainage necessary for healthy growth. The type of cactus soil needed depends on whether you are potting a tropical Holiday Cactus, which tolerates more moisture, or a desert cactus that needs a drier soil.
Combine equal parts peat moss and ground fir bark in a bucket to create a base potting mixture for tropical or desert cacti. Alternatively, use a premade potting mixture that doesn’t contain soil. Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep cacti healthy and thriving.
Mix two parts of the potting base mix with one part coarse builder’s sand for a tropical or Holiday Cactus, which requires more moisture and tolerates less drainage than desert cacti. Substitute perlite, pumice or vermiculite, if desired. Use equal parts of the base potting mix and coarse sand, perlite, pumice or vermiculite for a desert cactus, as they cannot tolerate too much moisture retention and grow better in a sandy, well-drained mixture.
Mix the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Break up any large clods that form so the potting mix is evenly blended. Water the mixture in the bucket prior to filling the pots and planting the cactus. Allow the peat or coir in the mix to absorb the water for at least one hour. Use for potting when the mixture feels moist but no water droplets form if you squeeze a handful.
Tip Cactus plants have low nutrient requirements, so there is no need to add fertilizers to the potting mix. Instead, fertilize the plants sparingly with a soluble cactus fertilizer every three to four months.
Warning Over-watering can quickly kill a cactus. Place the soil only in pots that contain drainage holes to allow excess moisture to drip from the pot. Water most cactus varieties only when the soil has almost completely dried.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
“Water applied must drain through the soil in fifteen seconds. If it fails to do so, the soil is too dense.” Such advice came to me decades ago from an old school nurseryman who specialized in cacti and succulents. Back then I thought this fifteen second law regarding fast-draining soil for succulents was ridiculous. After moving to the desert I learned what native cactus ground looks like. Water applied instantly vanishes into the soil.
The nurseryman was right. Today about half my collection of succulent plants are grown in small pots that come into an unheated south facing greenhouse for the winter. They are planted in Black Gold Cactus Mix, which drains within the fifteen second rule.
What many new succulent gardeners fail to understand is that, because cacti root differently, soil is everything. Standard plants go deep to catch ground moisture after the surface soil dries out. In the desert, cacti adapt to short periods of rainfall by spreading out shallow roots over a large area. These roots are capable of rapidly taking up water before it water drains through porous ground. This water is immediately stored in a succulent’s specialized tissues that hold it between widely spaced rain events. Shallow rooting is the reason why most cacti do best in low, wide pots, pans and bowls with large, open drain holes.
Cactus potting soil contains perlite, which looks like little white pieces of popcorn. While it is excellent for a root zone, it floats to the surface when I water. This and little bits of organic matter become entangled in the spines or settle in nooks and crannies of smooth surface skin. This is not only unsightly, it brings soil born bacteria in direct contact with the plant skin which may begin the rotting process.
To control these floaters, succulent aficionados apply a layer of fine gravel on top of the potting soil to keep it all in place when water is applied. Black Gold White Rock is popular for modern style containers with a more graphic look. I prefer Black Gold Washed Gravel because it’s more naturalistic and blends with the rocks I find on walks to use as an accent stone. You can also use aquarium gravel for more unusual or brightly colored composition of succulent, pot and surface material.
Even the smallest damage to the skin of a plant can allow pathogens to enter and begin the process of internal cell damage which leads to softening rot. When transplanting cacti, I handle each plant carefully to avoid the slightest damage. Once removed from the original pot, I do not replant immediately but allow it to sit bare root in the open air for a few days. This lets any damaged roots or skin heal over or callus before repotting in new soil. Failing to do so brings soil pathogens into direct contact with a wound, which inevitably infects internal tissues.
When your soil is sufficiently well drained for cacti and gorgeous succulents, it becomes downright difficult to overwater them. The warmer months of summer are their rapid growing season. During this growing season, water often, feed modestly, and above all, make sure you use Black Gold Cactus Mix to be sure it drains in about fifteen seconds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Soils are essential for life on earth and critical in many of the environmental challenges facing the earth. Most plants depend on soils as a suitable medium for growth by providing at least six factors for plant growth: physical support for anchoring the root system, aeration and ventilation for the roots, pores for absorbing rainwater and holding it for use by the roots, moderation of temperature fluctuations, protection from phytotoxic substances, and supplying inorganic minerals in the form of dissolved nutrients.
The four major components of soil are air, water, mineral matter, and organic matter. An ideal soil for plant growth has a composition by volume of 50% solid (45% mineral, 5% organic) and 50% pore space (25% filled with air and 25% filled with water).
Succulent Soils The most important consideration in making a potting soil for succulents is that it will drain well. The soil must be porous so that water penetrates easily and drains away quickly. At the roots a rapid exchange between water and air is essential but cannot take place when water is excessive. A soil that remains wet for long periods of time can quickly kill most succulent plants.
There is no one way to prepare a succulent soil mix and any that drain well should support healthy succulent growth. By experimenting you can find the one that works the best for you. An example of a good succulent soil mix is 2 parts by volume of a potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite. Even simpler is a 1:1 mixture of potting soil and perlite. If sand is added to a mix, it should be coarse grained such as builders sand. Addition of organic material is not necessary since in their native habitats most succulents live in weathered soils which are very low in humus.
A soil mixture for succulent plants should have a good crumbly structure. To test your soil mix, moisten and then squeeze with your hands: the mixture should not form a lump but crumble loosely.
Often it is recommended to repot your succulents every couple years. The use of an appropriate soil mix will promote their good health and keep them looking their best.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are group of plants that have fleshy leaves, stems or roots designed for storing water and allowing the plants to survive periods of drought. Whether your succulents grow in containers on a patio, as groundcovers between the pavers in a garden path or as colorful and interesting accents in a garden bed, they need a growing medium suited to their capacity for retaining water.
Soil Requirements Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are plants that store water in their tissues, enabling them to live in severe environments such as a desert. Many succulents thrive with full sun exposure. Once some varieties become accustomed to a low light environment, however, they can remain there indefinitely as long as they are cared for properly. Because succulents retain moisture in their thick foliage, they require soil that drains well and less water than typical houseplants.
Mason’s Congo Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants that have been just moved from a shady location to direct sunlight are likely to get sunburn. Sunburn on a succulent shows the worst damage at the top and side that is facing the sun. Ridges are more likely to burn than valleys along the plant stem. Sometimes, cacti have wide ribs and little spine protection and then sunburn will occur in between the ribs. A light burn will just be a whitish discoloring on the exposed areas. More severe burns will become a hard brown scar along the plant in whatever areas did not get shaded by spines or other parts of the stem.
Treatment If you catch a sun burned succulent at the whitish discoloring stage, you can undo the damage by getting it some shade protection. If the plant gets to the brown scaring stage, then the damage is permanent and the plant will have to grow out of it in time. Again, prevention is the best defense with sunburn.
If you purchase a plant that has been sitting inside a store for some time, you will need to gradually move it into full sun. Do this by giving it full sun for a short period of time each day, and then regularly increase the length of time in the full sun over the course of a couple weeks. Keep in mind that some species do not ever want full sun all day. Also note that “full sun” in England is much different than “full sun” in Arizona. The stronger the sun where you live, the more careful you have to be to keep your plants sun burn free.
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2017年09月22日
Aloe aristata, also known as Lace Aloe, is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant. It is a stemless, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, clump-forming succulent with dense rosettes of stubby, lance-shaped, toothed, white-margined, dark green leaves, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long, with small white spots and soft white spines, particularly beneath. In the fall, produces terminal panicles, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, 2 to 6 branched, bearing cylindrical, orange-red flowers, up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long.
Growing Conditions Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window. Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C). Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette. Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe. Pests and Problems Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture. Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant. Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum arachnoideum, sometimes known as Cobweb Houseleek is a species of flowering plant in the family Crassulaceae, native to the Alps, Apennines and Carpathians.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun to light shade Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring. General Care Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
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