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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many gardeners have had trouble with nematodes attacking their plants. Maybe you’ve tried to grow carrots, but they came out knobby and twisted. Or maybe your potatoes were covered in warts and galls. If so, your garden may have a nematode problem. Read on to learn more about controlling nematodes with plants.
Using Plants for Nematode Control Nematodes are tiny round worms that commonly live in soil, and many of them attack garden plants. These pests can damage the roots of numerous edible and ornamental plants, so many gardeners have looked for ways to control them. If you are one of those gardeners, you may have wondered: are there any plants that repel nematodes?
Some nematodes can be controlled using nematode-killing pesticides (nematicides), but these can be toxic and most are unavailable to home gardeners. Crop rotation can also reduce nematode infestations, but it is time consuming. Fortunately, scientists have identified a list of nematode repellent plants that can help combat these earth-dwelling pests. These include: Painted Daisy – kills nematodes when used as a green manure French Marigold – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Dahlia – repels nematodes Castor Bean – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Partridge Pea – reduces populations of peanut root knot nematode Rapeseed – certain varieties kill nematodes when used as a green manure Showy Crotalaria – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Velvet Bean – may repel several types of nematodes Controlling nematodes with plants is an effective, natural method and is definitely worth a try.
How to Use Nematode Repellent Plants Of the list above, two of the best plants for nematode control are the painted daisy and French marigold. Both of these are not just nematode repellent plants, but they actually kill nematodes more efficiently. Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) is useful for warding off nematode problems because it produces a botanical toxin that kills root nematodes. French marigold (Tagetes patula) produces a natural chemical that kills several types of nematodes, including the root-knot nematodes that attack carrots and many other vegetable plants. Scientists have found that Tangerine, a dwarf French marigold variety, is especially effective at combating nematodes in garden soil. The following varieties of French marigold are also effective: Bolero Bonita Mixed Goldie Gypsy Sunshine Petite Petite Harmony Petite Gold Scarlet Sophie Single Gold
If you have a nematode infestation, remove as many plant roots as possible when you clean up your garden in the fall. In winter and early spring, till and solarize the soil to reduce nematode populations.
In spring, plant one of one of the recommended varieties of French marigold (or another of the plants that repel nematodes) in solid patches or strips in the garden. Space the plants at seven inches apart. Let them grow for at least two months, then till the plants into the soil. Be sure to till the plants in or remove the flower heads of marigolds before they go to seed. Otherwise, they could become a weed in next year’s garden. To prevent nematodes from returning to the garden, keep the soil free of weeds until the next spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
With hundreds of ornamental host plants, scale is a common pest in the garden. Diaspididae scale is commonly known as hard scale and is a more host specific insect with breeding limitations. Coccid scale is commonly known as soft scale, and is more widespread. As it is the more common scale, this article will discuss soft scale on plants, as well as coccid scale control.
What are Coccid Scales? Though it is sometimes confused with a plant disease or fungus, soft scale on plants is actually an insect infestation. Like vampires, these insects suck the sap from the vascular system of plants. The plant itself will yellow and wither; it may also grow distorted and stunted.
A sticky, scale-looking substance may be visible on the underside of leaves and stems. Gray mold oftentimes will grow over the top of the scale. When scale or the gray mold that tends to accompany it, covers too much of the plant, it will inhibit the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. Between draining the plant of its nutrient exchanging sap and interrupting its ability to photosynthesize, coccid soft scale can kill a plant.
So what are coccid scales, exactly? Tiny female coccid scale insects are carried on wind or crawl on a plant until they find a suitable feeding spot. They then begin to feed and become immobile. As they feed, they create a shell or scale-like shield over their body with a waxy substance that they produce.
When several of these scale covered insects are together on a plant, it can appear that the plant has reptile-like scales. While in its scale, the female coccid scale insect will lay eggs. One female can lay up to 2,000 eggs. They also produce a sticky honeydew that attracts ants and catches fungal spores, causing plants to also become infected by fungal diseases.
Treating Soft Scale Bugs The most effective coccid soft scale insect control is using neem oil. Neem oil will treat insects and fungal diseases. Systemic insecticides are also very effective against scale insects because they feed on the plant sap. Other effective coccid scale control products are pyrethrum based insecticides, marathon, horticultural oil, and malathion.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
It’s amazing how many tiny things can live on a tree, without anyone really ever noticing. Such is the case of the Eriophyid mite, the cause of spindle galls on your tree leaves. When spindle galls get you down, take a look at this article for more information about them and how they affect your plants. Read on to learn about the fascinating process that creates spindle galls.
What are Spindle Galls? Walking through a newly leafed forest or even just around your own garden in the springtime can reveal many breathtaking and astonishing sights. If you’re very lucky, you might even find some spindle galls. Although these interesting leaf deformations can at first appear like some sort of severe plant disease, the truth is that they’re very rarely dangerous to your plants.
If your favorite tree has developed strange spiky growths on the upper surfaces of its leaves, you may immediately be concerned it’s an early sign of plant disease. Fortunately, spindle galls are not indicative of serious illness; instead, they’re the homes of tiny garden mites that feed on plants like yours. The Eriophyid mites are the causes of spindle galls. In the spring, these tiny mites emerge from their hiding places under bark, in cracks or under bud scales and begin feeding on the newly opened leaves of landscape trees.
Although this would normally be a fairly disturbing trend, because spindle gall mites are so small, the leaf is barely affected. Usually, the most serious effect is that infected leaves are tricked into encapsulating the mite, thus forming the very noticeable gall. Inside the gall, the mite is feeding, growing and laying eggs. But don’t worry, the next generation won’t hang around long. Not only can spindle gall mites be easily blown on the wind, they also frequently hitch rides with visiting insects.
How to Treat Spindle Galls There are certainly a few gall mites that require intervention, such as galls that cause leaf petioles to swell and result in the death of leaves, but spindle gall mites aren’t anything more than an inconvenience. You’ll even notice that they naturally wax and wane from year to year. Another mite that’s present on your plants, the Phytoseiid mite, is predatory and loves nothing more than to eat these spindle gall mites in abundance. Once you’ve seen galls on a plant, it’s too late to treat them, anyway, since the insect is encased within the leaf tissue.
Because of these things, spindle gall treatment mostly consists of not panicking and learning to appreciate the many animals that call your landscape home. If infections in years past have been severe, you may want to think about treating mites this year, but be advised that you can’t just kill the Eriophyid mites and leave the Phytoseiid mites alone. It’s a one and done scenario. If you want to eliminate all mites, spray your tree with miticide from top to bottom seven to 10 days before bud break, or use a horticultural oil to disrupt mite life cycles once leaves have opened.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lumps, bumps and weird cottony fluff on your plants are more than just some strange coincidence, they’re probably soft scale insects! Don’t worry, we have the answers to your burning soft scale questions.
What is Soft Scale? Plants that are droopy, yellowing or have developed sticky spots and black mold on leaves can be really alarming to find in your landscape or garden. These are plants that look to be on the brink of immediate death, but things aren’t always that straightforward. If your plants are sagging and looking terrible, it may not be a terminal plant disease, but soft scale insects to blame.
Soft scale insects are relatively large sap-sucking insects, measuring a tenth to a quarter of an inch long (two to six millimeters), with a distinct protective covering firmly attached to their bodies. Some mimic their surroundings, others produce a waxy coating that can make them resemble fluffy insect casings. They come in a range of colors and sizes, but they all result in the same kinds of problems. Soft scale feed directly from the vascular systems of host plants, which can quickly result in a plant that looks like it’s not feeling so hot. Drought stress can speed up the plant’s decline, since it’s fighting these soft scale insects for liquids.
One of the most distinguishing features in determining soft scale versus armored scale infestations is the production of copious amounts of clear, sticky liquid called honeydew. Only the soft scale bugs produce this liquid, which tends to drip on leaves and objects below it. This sets up a dangerous cycle, because the sweet liquid attracts both ants and a non-pathogenic fungus called sooty mold. Often, ant infestations are among the first signs of soft scale. These smart, industrial insects have actually been known to use soft scale insects as a means of farming honeydew, just as they do with aphids. Ants will tend them lovingly and then harvest the fruits of their labor for the ant colony. Because soft scale can’t move, their ant partners will move them to more promising plants or to uninfested parts of the existing host, creating a huge problem for the plant owner.
How to Get Rid of Soft Scale Destroying soft scale is a relatively easy process, except for those ants. If you’re seeing ants in the same plant as the scale bugs, you’ll have to get the ants under control at the same time that you treat the invaders. Otherwise, the ants will rush in to save the soft scale insects and move as many as possible to a new, safe location. Baiting and applying a sticky barrier to affected plants will rid you of the ants, making it easier to control the scale.
Neem or horticultural oil sprays are recommended to get the scale themselves under control. This way, the predators of scale insects are largely preserved and can help to keep more scale from invading. Always test foliage before spraying your entire plant with any sort of oil. Phytotoxicity can occur, though it is unlikely if your plant is well hydrated.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Armored scale insects are hiding under your nose right now and you probably don’t even know it. These master mimics are everywhere, but you can learn how to detect and eliminate them from your plants in this article. Read on to learn more about these strange sap-sucking insects. What is Armored Scale? Of all the garden pests you’ll meet as you cultivate and love your garden, armored scale insects may be the most interesting and frustrating. If your plant has suddenly developed a lot of unusual bumps, lumps or things that look almost like they might be new growths in the wrong spots, armored scale is probably responsible.
Scale insects are tiny sap-sucking pests, about the same size as an aphid. Unlike aphids, though, scale insects hide under elaborate coverings meant to protect them from predators and the elements, as well as acting as cover for their eggs. In armored scale, these covers are waxy, hard, circular or rounded in shape and detached from their bodies. Females spend the bulk of their lives under these covers, eventually losing any obvious appendages and permanently affixing themselves to their host plant. Signs of armored scale are more subtle than soft scale, because armored scale don’t produce the sticky substance known as honeydew. This is because they consume plant juices differently.
Instead of focusing on locating the vascular system of host plants, armored scale rupture and destroy the cells they’re feeding on directly. The lower amount of available water eliminates the need for honeydew production as a byproduct of feeding. Even so, infected plants may suddenly appear weak or yellow dramatically when numbers climb. The most telling sign of armored versus soft scale are the hard coverings. If you lift one, you’ll find a small soft-bodied insect inside, whereas with soft scale, the covering is often part of their body. Armored scale also don’t draw ants or sooty mold since they don’t produce honeydew. How to Get Rid of Armored Scale Armored scale insects would be a breeze to eliminate if not for their thick outer coatings.
The insects themselves are quite vulnerable, so you don’t need to go in with a huge arsenal. Horticultural oil is the very best way to destroy armored scale while preserving the predators that will readily feed on their young during the mobile “crawler” stage. Ideally, timing your application with the emergence of crawlers from their mothers’ covers will eliminate an entire generation all at once.
Repeat sprays at five to six week intervals will knock the colony back, and persistence will destroy them entirely. Before applying horticultural oil, ensure that your plant is well hydrated and not heat stressed. Most plants won’t have a problem with horticultural oil mixed appropriately, but the odd bush or tree might experience phytotoxicity, so try a small spot first a few days ahead of when you plan to spray the whole plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
When people see these unusually colored cacti, quite often they are mistaken as flowers. But in actual fact they are two different species of cacti grafted together.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cacti are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus? New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.
Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants. How to Cut Back a Cactus The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.
The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.
Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.
Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents store water in their thick, fleshy leaves. The appearance of a succulent depends on the variety, with some producing branching stems covered with interesting foliage and others more prized for their colorful flowers. Most succulents thrive in drier conditions, although nearly all make suitable houseplants if your outdoor climate is too wet. While most types don’t require pruning, some of the branching types can benefit from a light trim to maintain their size and shape so they can thrive in a small garden bed or container.
Instruction Examine the leaves on the stem you plan to prune to determine where you should cut the stem. Find a leaf or leaf node that is pointed in the direction you want the stem to grow, then cut the stem just above this spot. The new growth at the pruning spot will branch in the direction of the leaf or leaf node. Cut through the stem within 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) of the desired leaf or node. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife.
Remove up to a third of each stem’s length as you prune. For trailing succulent varieties, vary the length of each pruned stem to give the plant more visual interest. Tip Prune succulents in early spring just before new growth begins. Prune flowering varieties after blooming or during the winter dormant season.
The cuttings from succulent pruning can root and grow into new plants. Plant the cuttings in a pot of moist potting soil and keep the soil moist until the cuttings root and show signs of new growth.
Warning Some succulents, such as Euphorbia, produce an irritating sap. Wear gloves when pruning succulents to protect your skin.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots. Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade. Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost. Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week. Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant Things You Will Need Garden knife Handheld spade 3- or 4-inch nursery container Perlite Coarse sand Sterile compost
Tip Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
A Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) doesn’t really need to bloom to have a commanding presence in the garden. The symmetrically rounded stem is armored down the ridges with clusters of golden yellow spines. A wooly white patch tops older cacti. This is the central growing point and bears the small yellow flowers. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, these long-lived, slow-growing cacti can reach 3 feet across and 4 feet high. They are suitable for container plants anywhere.
Flowers The life cycle of the Golden Barrel starts with the flower, which needs to be pollinated to produce seeds. Yellow funnel-shaped flowers grow in a ring in the central felted portion. Plants have to be at least 14 inches across before they are old enough to flower. Sometimes the flowers are self-fertile, but you get more seeds when flowers cross-pollinate with those on another Golden Barrel. Bees are the usual pollinators. Once flowers are pollinated, they close and seeds begin to form in the ovary beneath the faded flower.
Fruits The fruits are embedded within the dense plant hairs on top of the plant, and they remain in place year after year unless you pull them out. Sometimes ground squirrels harvest them to eat the seeds. The dried flower stays on top of the fruit. The fresh fruit has a yellowish fleshy wall that dries to brown. The oval black seeds inside the fruit remain viable for a long time. To collect the seeds, gently remove the fruit by grasping the dried flower and slightly twisting it as you pull. It’s best to take fruits to a work table to break them open and remove the seeds.
Seeds Seeds germinate during warm, moist conditions and need light to sprout. To plant the seeds, use a clean shallow pot with drainage holes and a soil-less growing mix like half peat and half perlite. After filling the pot within an inch of the top with the potting mix, scatter some chicken grit on top, and then evenly distribute the seeds so they lodge among the grit. Water the pot from the bottom by temporarily putting it in a tray of water so the mix is thoroughly wet. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in bright indirect light, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.
Seedlings Pudgy little seedlings emerge from the seeds after four to six weeks. They look like miniature greenish-pink pencil erasers with a pair of pointed corners, which are the cotyledons or seed leaves. As the seedlings grow, a puff of little spines develops on a bump between the cotyledons. Gradually remove the plastic after the seeds have germinated. Allow them to grow until they are big enough to touch each other and have a little crown of spines, when you can transfer them in small clumps of four to six plants to individual 2-inch pots. Being in clumps helps to keep them from being overwatered.
Young Plants As the seedlings grow, they begin to look more like a cactus. Plants have little bumps with a cluster of small spines atop each bump, more properly called tubercles, that eventually join together to form the ridges on the cactus. When your seedlings fill the pot, unpot them, separate them and give each one its own 2-inch pot. Each time they grow to touch the sides of the pot, transplant them to just the next pot size and gradually give them partial sunlight. When cacti are 6 inches wide, they can be gradually accustomed to garden conditions and planted outdoors. After about 15 years, the plant becomes large enough to flower, and the cycle repeats itself.
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