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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ozone is an air pollutant that is essentially a very active form of oxygen. It forms when sunlight reacts with exhaust from internal combustion engines. Ozone damage to plants occurs when plant foliage absorbs ozone during transpiration, which is the plant’s normal breathing process. The ozone reacts with compounds inside the plant to produce toxins that affect the plant in a variety of ways. The result is reduced yields and unsightly discolorations, such as silver spots on plants.
How to Fix Ozone Damage Plants under stress are most likely to be seriously affected by ozone damage, and they recover slowly. Treat injured plants by providing conditions as close to the ideal for the species as possible. Irrigate well, especially on hot days, and fertilize on schedule. Keep the garden weed-free so that the plants don’t have competition for moisture and nutrients. Treating ozone injured plants won’t correct the damage that is already done, but it can help the plant produce new, healthy foliage and help prevent diseases and insects that normally attack weak and injured plants.
Ozone Plant Damage There are a number of symptoms associated with ozone plant damage. Ozone first damages foliage that is almost mature. As it progresses, older and younger leaves may also sustain damage. The first symptoms are stippling or tiny spots on the surface of the leaves that may be light tan, yellow, red, red-brown, dark brown, black, or purple in color. Over time, the spots grow together to form large dead areas.
Here are some additional symptoms you may see in plants with ozone damage: You may see bleached out or silver spots on plants. Leaves may turn yellow, bronze or red, inhibiting their ability to perform photosynthesis. Citrus and grape leaves may wither and drop off. Conifers may show yellow-brown mottling and tip burn. White pines are often stunted and yellow. These symptoms closely mimic those of a variety of plant diseases. Your local cooperative extension agent can help you determine whether the symptoms are caused by ozone damage or disease.
Depending on the extent of the damage, plants may have reduced yields. Fruits and vegetables may be small because they mature too early. The plants will likely outgrow the damage if the symptoms are light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Reversion of variegated leaves occurs in many types of plants. This is when the white shading or lighter speckles and borders turn into green. This is frustrating to many gardeners, as the variegated forms of plants provide increased interest, brighten dim areas and are bred specifically to enhance this trait. Variegation loss in plants may be due to lighting, seasonality or other factors. It is not possible to reverse loss of variegation, but you can usually keep it from taking over an entire plant.
Reversion of Variegated Leaves Variegation may be the result of a natural anomaly or carefully engineered breeding. Whichever, the case, variegated leaves may turn completely green for a number of reasons. The coloring results from unstable changes in the leaf’s cells. One of the most common variegated plant problems is limited chlorophyll in the leaves. Less chlorophyll means less solar energy, as it is a primary component in photosynthesis. Variegated plants are less vigorous than green specimens are. The tendency for reversion of variegated leaves is a protective adaptation that allows the plant to return to a more successful form.
Why Does Variegation Disappear? Loss of variegation is a frustrating condition for the gardener. Why does variegation disappear? The plant may do it as a survival tactic. It may also occur due to another leaf cell mutation. Variegated plants growing in shady or semi-shady locations are really at a disadvantage. Not only do they have low levels of chlorophyll, but they are not even exposed to adequate light. This scenario lends itself to reversion of variegated leaves.
Variegation loss in plants could also be spurred by changes in heat or cold. If the weather is unfavorable to a particular plant, it may revert just to get a competitive advantage. Once the leaves revert to all green, the plant can increase its harvest of solar energy, which in turn gives it more fuel to produce bigger and stronger growth. Waterlogged plants may also turn back and new shoots often come out green.
Variegated Plant Problems Variegated plants tend to be less hearty and vigorous as compared to their completely green cousins. They have no more or less general problems, but some plants can produce albino growth. This type of growth cannot gather solar energy and will eventually die back. If all the new growth becomes albino, the plant will not survive. This is the very opposite of the reversion process.
Variegated plants also have smaller leaves, less tolerance to shady areas and yet a tendency to burn in hot sun, and slower growth. Most plants will only revert on stem, branch or other area. You can cut these off to try to prevent the entire plant from reverting. This usually works to slow the production of green leaf cells. If that doesn’t work, embrace your healthy, beautiful green chimera of a plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Nothing is more disconcerting than to discover a problem with your plants. But instead of getting worked up over things you cannot do and throwing them away, why not learn what you can do. The basic care of damaged plants may not be as difficult as you think. With a little know how, you can find ways for reviving stress damaged plants and making them well again.
Damaged Plant Care Oh no, my beautiful coleus (or other favorite plant) is looking bedraggled! What can be done to perk up a stress damaged plant? Whether due to under or over watering, sunscald, pests or disease, inadequate fertilization or what have you, it may be advisable to retrieve a sample for diagnosis. Take the sample to a reputable nursery or contact your local Master Gardener chapter or extension service for a professional opinion and information on how to salvage your injured plants. That said, there are some simple remedies for reviving stress damaged plants, but first you must become something of a detective.
Questions for Salvaging Injured Plants When it comes to dealing with common plant problems, it helps to assess the situation carefully. One of the easiest ways to accomplish this is by asking questions. Important questions to ask regarding your stress damaged plant include: First of all, this may seem elementary my dear Watson, but what type of plant are we working with here? Consider where the damaged plant is located, sun, partial shade, or shaded area, etc. Has it been recently transplanted or otherwise moved? Are any other plants in this location afflicted? Examine the plant closely to determine the extent of damage. When were the first symptoms noted? Has there been a progression of symptoms? What part of the plant was affected first? Are insects observed and, if so, what do they look like?
Identify what type of soil the damaged plant resides in. Tight clay or loose, sandy soil? Have there been fungicides, insecticides, or weed killers used in this area? Salt or ice melt utilized on or around the damaged plant? Additionally, consider your irrigation and fertilizing routine. The final checks to cross off are in regards to mechanical damage, such as weed trimmer injury, construction or utility work nearby, and even traffic pattern. Is the suffering plant regularly or infrequently tromped on by the kids when they run for the school bus? This last bit is a fairly obvious causal effect, but in one’s dismay over the damaged plants, it may also be overlooked.
Care of Damaged Plants Once you have considered the above questions, you are ready to take on damaged plant care based on the answers. Some of the more common tips for salvaging injured plants include the following: First, prune any broken branches or stems to within ¼-Plntinch of a live bud or branch. Do not prune outdoor plants if there is any danger of frost, as recent pruning leaves the plant susceptible to additional damage. If branches or stems are damaged but not broken, stake the damaged area and tie with soft fabric or string. This may or may not work, and if not, the broken branch should be pruned. If a potted plant appears to be root bound (roots are growing through the drainage hole), transplant to a larger container.
If you suspect a houseplant has been overwatered, remove the damaged plant and wrap the roots in a dry towel. Let the towel absorb any excess water. Trim off any rotting or mushy roots. If there has been a period of frequent freezing and thawing (known as frost heave) and your outdoor plants roots are pushing up out of the soil, push them back into the soil or wait until a thaw and then dig deep enough to recover roots. Consider the simplest routes to reviving your stress damaged plant. A stress damaged plant’s most likely fix is a quick one, as the damage is probably caused by over or under watering, a temperature flux, or maybe just a need for fertilizer.
Once you have gone through the above and checked off the least likely (such as absence of pests and tromping children), the solution may be as easy as transplanting to a different environ, watering more frequently (or not, as the case may be), or regular feeding of your stress damaged plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Nutrient deficiencies in plants are hard to spot and are often misdiagnosed. Plant deficiencies are often encouraged by a number of factors including poor soil, insect damage, too much fertilizer, poor drainage or disease. When nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are lacking, plants respond in a variety of ways—oftentimes in the leaves.
Leaf problems in plants that are deficient in nutrients or trace minerals are common and may include stunted growth, drying and discoloration. Nutritional deficiencies present differently in plants, and a proper diagnosis is critical in order to rectify the problem. One of the most commonly asked questions relates to having a plant with purple leaves, or leaves turning reddish purple in color.
Why Are Plant Leaves Turning Purple? When you notice a plant with purple leaves rather than the normal green color, it is most likely due to a phosphorus deficiency. All plants need phosphorus (P) in order to create energy, sugars and nucleic acids. Young plants are more likely to display signs of phosphorus deficiency than older plants. If the soil is cool early in the growing season, a phosphorus deficiency may develop in some plants. The underside of marigold and tomato plant leaves will turn purple with too little phosphorus while other plants will be stunted or turn a dull dark-green color.
Leaves Turning Reddish Purple in Color Leaves turning reddish purple in color is most often seen in corn crops. Corn with a phosphorus deficiency will have narrow, bluish green leaves that eventually turn reddish purple. This problem occurs early in the season, often due to cold and wet soil. Corn suffering from a lack of magnesium may also display a yellow streaking between the veins of lower leaves that turn red with time.
Other Causes for a Plant with Purple Leaves If you have a plant with purple leaves, it may also be due to elevated levels of anthocyanin, which is a purple colored pigment. This pigment builds up when a plant becomes stressed and normal plant functions are interrupted. This problem can be very hard to diagnose as other factors can cause the pigment buildup such as cool temperatures, disease and drought.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Herbicide plant damage can arise in a variety of forms. It is usually the result of unintentional contact with chemicals from spray drift or contact with vapor. Recognizing accidental herbicide injury may be difficult as the symptoms can mimic other plant conditions. Know the classic signs and learn how to treat plants accidentally sprayed with herbicide.
Accidental Herbicide Injury The type of injury can be determined by the time symptoms begin to show. Problems that appear right after new plants begin to germinate are often the result of carry-over from previous applications, high rates of application, shallow planting and even poor timing. Herbicide plant damage that appears on mature plants may be due to drift, misapplication, high temperatures or humidity, incorrect treatment and tank contamination. The home gardener will usually notice accidental herbicide injury on mature plants due to misapplication and timing.
Symptoms of Herbicide Injuries The signs of injury will depend on the type of herbicide which contacted the plant. Post-emergence broadleaf herbicides are responsible for most injuries. These result in twisted leaves, cupped foliage, narrower new leaves, and roots that appear on the surface in annual plants. On ornamental grasses, these products cause yellowing and die back. Pre-emergence controls are not as dangerous and herbicides that are applied systemically rarely result in problems unless they are over-applied.
The exceptions are herbicides that have amine salt, which allows the chemical to liquefy and travel more easily through soil. Non-selective herbicides will cause accidental herbicide injury in many instances and these controls must be applied according to directions and with caution. Symptoms of herbicide injuries from these products include yellowing in leaves, die back and general ill health in plants that might have been exposed. In some cases, fixing herbicide spray drift is possible if it is caught early enough.
How to Treat Plants Accidentally Sprayed with Herbicide Contact non-selective herbicide injury is usually most evident in the leaves. A foliar method is used for application, which increases chances of drift. Plants accidentally exposed should have affected leaves pruned off to prevent the spread of the herbicide deep into the plant. It may also help to water the plant thoroughly to dilute the chemicals. If left untreated, the plant will eventually die.
Plants exposed to other chemical formulas may survive if you give them superior care for the next year. Keep the plant watered properly, fertilize in spring and prevent competition from weeds. If no other factors, such as disease or insects, are affecting your plant, then your leafy friend may outlive you.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’ve ever found a flower stem that looks wide and flattened, splayed or fused, you’ve probably discovered an odd disorder called fasciation. Some fasciation in plants result in huge, grotesque stems and flowers, while others are quite subtle. Discovering fasciations in your garden or in the wild is intriguing, and one of the fascinations of observing nature. Let’s find out more about the fasciation deformation of flowers.
What is Fasciation? So exactly what is fasciation in flowers anyway? Fasciation literally means banded or bundled. Scientists aren’t sure what causes the deformity, but they believe it is probably caused by a hormonal imbalance. This imbalance may be the result of a random mutation, or it can be caused by insects, diseases or physical injury to the plant. Think of it as a random occurrence. It doesn’t spread to other plants or other parts of the same plant. The result of fasciation is thick, often flattened, stems and large flowers or flower heads with far more than the usual number of flowers. The extent of fasciation deformation of flowers depends on where the damage occurs. Fasciations close to the ground affect a larger portion of the plant.
Can Fasciation Be Treated? Can fasciation be treated once you spot it? In short, no. Once the damage is done, you can’t correct fasciation on that particular stem. In some cases, you may be able to prune out the affected stems without damaging the plant. The good news is that perennials that exhibit fasciation may be perfectly normal next year, so there is no need to destroy the plant. Not all fasciation in plants makes them undesirable. The fasciation of a fan-tailed willow makes it a highly desirable landscape shrub. Fasciation deformation of flowers such as the cauliflower-like heads of a celosia is part of the charm of the plant. Crested saguaro cactus, fasciated Japanese cedar, beefsteak tomatoes and broccoli are all examples of desirable fasciations.
While fasciation in flowers is usually a one-time occurrence, sometimes the fasciation is carried in the plant’s genetic material so that it reoccurs from generation to generation. More often, fasciated plants have to be propagated vegetatively to carry on the unusual characteristics. A fasciated plant can be a monstrosity or an interesting variation, and the difference is often in the eye of the beholder. Some gardeners will want to immediately replace the plant with one that looks more like its neighbors, while others will want to keep it as a curiosity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Every swelling bud in the garden is like a little promise from your plants. When these buds collapse for no reason, it may bring a gardener to tears. It may feel like all the love and care you’ve given your plants and the time you waited to see them finally bloom was wasted. But fear not, fellow gardener; flower bud blast may be disappointing, but it’s rarely a serious condition.
What is Bud Blast? Bud blast is a term used to describe flowers that have prematurely aborted before or soon after opening, such as with scape blasting in daylilies. Most often, flowers develop to a certain point and simply stop growing. Other bud blast symptoms may indicate the exact cause of flower bud blast. For example, flower buds that become paper-thin and dry may be suffering from botrytis blight, a common landscape fungus.
What Causes Bud Blast in Flowers? More often than not, the cause of bud blast is a problem in the environment. This is good news, though, because treating bud blast only requires you to figure out what the problem is and fix it for good. To help with your bud blast care, the most common environmental problems are listed below, along with solutions for treating bud blast: Improper Watering – Improper watering causes a great deal of stress to many plants. Under watering may cause plants to redirect water from enlarging buds to food-producing areas in an act of self-preservation. Over watering often leads to root rot, or other fungal infections that may destroy developing flower buds. Water plants when the top two inches of the soil is dry, and add two to four inches of organic mulch to keep moisture levels more even.
Temperature Extremes – Extremes in temperature can influence developing buds, especially in indoor plants. When temperatures fluctuate madly, plants get stressed and may respond by dropping all excess baggage in an attempt to survive. Flowers are costly and are often the first thing to be jettisoned, especially when temperatures are more often very cold than very warm. Moving indoor plants may correct the problem, but not much can be done for outdoor plants, although covering them with cardboard boxes on very cold nights may help. Wrong Lighting – Light has a direct effect on how well the plant can produce food and survive. Often, buds fail when high light plants are in low light settings, if they are initiated at all. At the same time, plants accustomed to low light situations may overheat in direct sun, causing buds to fail. Move these plants to more appropriate lighting conditions or provide supplementary light indoors.
Too Little Humidity – Insufficient humidity can interfere with proper bud formation, especially in tender indoor plants like orchids. Too dry of conditions or humidity that fluctuates considerably will lead to buds that drop. If your indoor plants are experiencing this problem, you can place them on top of some rocks in the center of a pan filled with water to increase the humidity in their immediate area. Young Plants – Younger plants often lack the root structure to support blooms, though they may try to set them regardless, leading to aborted blossoms. If your plant has been recently transplanted or the one with problems is a perennial you divided in the last season, pick any blooms off to allow the root system to expand before permitting it to bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ever have one of those days when you feel a little sluggish and bloated? Well, your plants can have the same problem — they retain water just like people do when conditions are not right. Edema in plants is not a serious disease and it’s not a symptom of a bacteria, virus or insect infestation. Common causes of plant edema include over watering and improper fertilization; it’s easily curable if caught early.
What is Edema? Edema, or oedema, is a type of abnormal water retention in plants, often influenced by the plant’s environment. Favorable conditions actually encourage edema in many cases, since affected plants already have a fair amount of water in their systems, providing them with more can just encourage them to gorge on liquid. Any time the plant takes up water faster than it transpires, edema becomes a risk. Signs of edema plant disease vary between susceptible species, but often include bumps, blisters or water-soaked areas on the undersides of leaves. These areas may expand and become corky, but in other plants, curling and distortion are common. White, crusty eruptions may form along the leaf veins or gall-like structures can develop under leaves with yellow corresponding spots on the upper leaf surface.
Treating Edema Because it’s not a disease, there are many ways to treat edema, depending on the cause. Your job as gardener is to figure out what’s causing your plant’s problem and correct the situation. If your plant has edema, first adjust your watering habits. Most plants should never sit in water, so remove those saucers and make sure that big pots are draining well. Roots tend to absorb water faster when the water is warm and the atmosphere is cool, so wait to water until the sun is up in the morning whenever possible. Indoors, humidity can have a considerable influence on edema; improving air circulation around plants will help reduce humidity into safer ranges.
Increasing the light intensity is helpful for many plants with edema, but be sure not to cook them by moving them too quickly into brighter light. Make these changes gradually, over the course of a week or two, slowly leaving the plant in brighter light for an increasing length of time, until it no longer wilts in response to the sun. Lastly, make sure you’re fertilizing your plant properly. Plants with low available potassium and calcium can be more susceptible to edema. If cultural conditions seem correct for your plant, a soil test may be needed. Adjusting the pH can make more nutrients available, or you may need to add more of the nutrients that are lacking.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Despite all your planning and care, nature and animals have a way of messing up the garden and landscape in ways that may seem needlessly cruel to the plants involved. Uprooted garden plants are a very common gardening problem, especially in areas prone to high winds. Trees, garden vegetables and perennials are frequent victims. Keep reading for information on what to do about plant roots coming out of ground.
Can Uprooted Plants be Saved? Yes, sometimes uprooted plants can be saved. That’s the best answer you’ll get out of an experienced gardener because dealing with uprooted plants is a gamble at best. Uprooted plant damage ranges in severity from annoying and cosmetic to extremely damaging, especially when large portions of the root system are broken or left exposed to the air for extended periods.
Tree roots coming out of the ground are especially problematic, both because of the challenge of up-righting the tree and that of re-anchoring it. Small plants that have been uprooted for a very short time and not allowed to dry out are the easiest to save. These plants may have lost a few root hairs but aren’t going to experience anything more than minor transplant shock. As plant size and exposure time increases, the outcome of your rescue operation is much less certain, but it’s always worth trying. If you just leave the plant uprooted, there’s zero chance it’ll survive, where even the most stressed uprooted plant might survive with enough care.
How to Replant an Uprooted Plant When a plant has been uprooted, you must act quickly and decisively in order to save it. First, inspect the rootball carefully for breaks and damage. If the roots are white and relatively intact, your plant is healthy, so wet the rootball well and replant it where it belongs. Small plants dug by dogs or other wild animals can usually be convinced to remain stable simply by watering them well and leaving them alone. Bigger plants, however, will need more convincing. You’ll need to supply extra support for larger bushes and trees uprooted by wind or other accidents, since they’re often top heavy and won’t be able to compensate right away. Resist the urge to trim trees and bushes at this time – they’re going to need all the leaves they have to feed their new root growth.
Many gardeners tie them to posts or pins secured in the ground, with the tension pulling in the opposite direction of the tree’s new lean. Boards can also be wedged between the trunk and the ground at an angle to help hold the tree upright. Using both methods in combination may yield the best results. Wait to fertilize your plant with nitrogen until it starts to show signs of new growth, since it doesn’t need the added stress associated with putting out a lot of shoots while it’s trying to anchor itself to the ground.
Remove the supports several times a month to check the steadiness of your plant; reinstall them if the tree can be wiggled in its hole even a little bit. Remember to water your troubled plant well and often – it may be missing a significant portion of its roots and unable to bring enough water into its system to meet its needs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Rain is as important to your plants as sun and nutrients, but like anything else, too much of a good thing can spell trouble. When rain is knocking down plants, gardeners despair, worried that their precious petunias will never be the same. Although plants flattened by rain are a troubling sight, torrential rains and plants have been co-existing for thousands of years — healthy plants are perfectly capable of managing rain damage.
Will Plants Recover from Rain Damage? Heavy rain damage on plants may leave them looking like they’ve been flattened to within an inch of their lives, but if you take a closer look at stems and branches, you’ll notice something amazing — most of those rain damaged parts are bent, not broken. Your plants may look terrible, but their flexibility saved them from a monstrous rain storm. If instead they remained rigid in the face of such an intense beating, their tissues would have broken or cracked, causing important transportation pathways to be severed. A few days to a week after a damaging storm, your plants will perk back up. Sometimes flowers are damaged and leaves slightly torn, but your plants will replace these injured areas much faster than seems possible if you leave them alone to do it. Don’t try to prop plants that are rain-flattened, since this can lead to additional damage. Let them be and watch them come back from their beating.
Help for Rain Damaged Plants Healthy plants can take a good pounding from the rain and will come back for more, but if your plants have been over fertilized or are planted in an area where the light is really too low for them, you may have a problem. Under these conditions, your plants may have developed leggy, weak growth that was unable to flex enough to protect them from damage.
If your plant stems are broken, rather than bent, you can help them recover by removing severely damaged tissues within a week after the damaging rain. This makes room for new leaves and shoots, and helps prevent the damaged, browning tissues from encouraging disease. In the future, perform a soil test before fertilizing and make sure that your plants are getting enough light to develop strong stems and branches.
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