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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
These are a very common pest of cacti and succulents, and potentially a huge topic ! There are many species of mealy bugs, but these insects are all small and hard to identify by amateur growers. Their host-plant range and individual sensitivity to control measures are poorly characterised anyway. There are probably several species of mealy bug going around collections in the UK and elsewhere. From time to time one certainly sees mealy bugs which "look different". These insects are small and grey or light brown and so difficult to see among the spines of cacti. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny woodlice about 2-3 mm long. A squashed mealy bug often leaves a characteristic red stain: the cochineal insect, from which a food colourant is made, is a type of mealy bug. Recently, a species that leaves a green stain has appeared in the UK. Mealy bugs often accumulate to feed on the tender tissues at or near the growing point. Very often, when nesting, they hide around the base of succulent plants, just below soil level or under the old dried leaves of Mesembs such as Lithops.
The first sign of a problem is often small balls of white fluff on the plant, on cactus spines or around the base or under the rim of pots. These are where the females are nesting up inside the fluff and producing young, which may be either born live or produced from eggs. There may also be some sugary honeydew produced by feeding mealy bugs, which can encourage black mould. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection, so it is a good idea to discourage invasive ants even though they are not intrinsically harmful to succulent plants.
Control of mealy bugs If there are only numbers of mealy bugs to be dealt with, dabbing a little methylated spirit (industrial alcohol, denatured alcohol) will kill them. Some people also spray their plants with methylated spirit diluted at least 1:3 with water. If you try this, remember that the fumes are potentially toxic and flammable and the liquid could harm the epidermis of delicate plants. Small numbers can be removed carefully with a pin, but it is hard to spot them all. For large or widespread infestations, use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticidal sprays (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions). Wash off as many of the mealy bugs as possible with a high pressure water jet from a sprayer, and treat the plant with a contact insecticide such as malathion (not for Crassulaceae) or a systemic insecticide. Watering with Imidacloprid (Provado Vine Weevil Killer) seems to be very effective against mealy bugs and has not so far shown any sign of toxicity to a wide range of succulent plants. Some fumigant smoke cones are also effective against mealy bugs, and have the advantage of being a dry treatment, but require repeated use to be really effective. Give the cone a good shake before igniting to reduce the risk of poor burning, place on a non-flammable surface and retire promptly after lighting the blue touch-paper fuse, before smoke emission begins. I like to do a preventative fumigation in the Spring and Autumn when it is too cold to spray or water the plants with systemic insecticide, but it is getting hard to find effective types of smoke cone in the UK.
Biological control of mealy bugs Introduce the predator Cryptolaemus montrouzeri, which requires temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
These are also very common pests of cacti and succulents, but are found only on the roots of infested plants where they do considerable damage. This may lead to the plant rotting where the damage allows fungal or bacterial infections to enter the plant tissues. They produce powdery white or white fluffy deposits in the soil which may sometimes also be seen underneath the pot. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny pinkish-brown woodlice (2-3 mm long) in the soil and roots.
Control of root mealy bugs Use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticide (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions) watered into the soil, or immerse the plant pot up to the top of the soil in a bucket of insecticide with a couple of drops of washing-up liquid to help wetting of the soil. The plant will need to be carefully dried out after a soaking, especially if treatment must be carried out in cold weather.
As a preventative measure, ground up moth balls added to the potting mix seem to discourage infestation by root mealy bug, and probably discourages other insects. However, the chemicals in the moth balls can cause damage to plastic plant pots and are best used with clay pots. ( NB. In the UK, chemicals must be used only as directed on the label: other use could be considered an offence. ) Root mealy bugs also seem to prefer peat-based mixtures to soil-based composts, although not exclusively.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Field mice may enter glasshouses in the autumn looking for somewhere warm to spend the winter, or at other times in the course of foraging. Mice tend to take a bite out of a lot of potential foodstuffs, rather than eating a lot of one food, and tend to subsequently avoid foods that were unpalatable or harmful to them. Consequently, a mouse may be very destructive to many plants in a short time, especially choice or show specimens which they seem to target carefully.
Control of Mice Another huge topic. Briefly, mice can be trapped live using special live-traps placed near walls, and the mouse released at a great distance from the house. If you do this, inspect the traps often and put a piece of carrot in the trap to provide moisture, or the mouse may die of dehydration before you find it.
Alternatively, there are conventional traps which kill the mouse and a range of poisonous baits on sale in most good hardware shops. A cat is also said to be an effective biological control for mice. You could also try putting balls of cotton wool impregnated with peppermint oil around your growing area. This interferes with their sense of smell and may discourage mice from the immediate area but the oil must be replaced frequently. Rats are really a matter for professional exterminators, but a range of poisonous baits are available to control them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
The mites are exceedingly small and a strong magnifying glass is needed to see them clearly. An early sign of their presence is the appearance of brown dots where the plant epidermis has been damaged, merging into confluent scarring and sometimes webbing on the plants. The harmful microscopic red spider mites, which damage plants, should not be confused with a commonly seen, much larger red mite 2-3 mm across which is a harmless predator.
Control of red spider mite The reddish-brown mites thrive in hot dry conditions and dislike humid conditions, so overhead watering and spraying plants may discourage mite attack. They are affected to some extent by insecticides (check labels), but a miticide is really needed to control them properly. Unfortunately, effective miticides are not available to amateurs.
Biological control of red spider mite A predator Phytoseiulus persimilis is available but requires temperatures over at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Iron chlorosis affects many kinds of plants and can be frustrating for a gardener. An iron deficiency in plants causes unsightly yellow leaves and eventually death. So it is important to correct iron chlorosis in plants. Let’s look at what does iron do for plants and how to fix systemic chlorosis in plants.
What Does Iron Do for Plants? Iron is a nutrient that all plants need to function. Many of the vital functions of the plant, like enzyme and chlorophyll production, nitrogen fixing, and development and metabolism are all dependent on iron. Without iron, the plant simply cannot function as well as it should.
Symptoms for Iron Deficiency in Plants The most obvious symptom of iron deficiency in plants is commonly called leaf chlorosis. This is where the leaves of the plant turn yellow, but the veins of the leaves stay green. Typically, leaf chlorosis will start at the tips of new growth in the plant and will eventually work its way to older leaves on the plant as the deficiency gets worse. Other signs can include poor growth and leaf loss, but these symptoms will always be coupled with the leaf chlorosis.
Fixing Iron Chlorosis in Plants Rarely is an iron deficiency in plants caused by a lack of iron in the soil. Iron is typically abundant in the soil, but a variety of soil conditions can limit how well a plant can get to the iron in the soil. Iron chlorosis in plants is normally cause by one of four reasons. They are: Soil pH is too high Soil has too much clay Compacted or overly wet soil Too much phosphorus in the soil Fixing Soil pH That Is Too High Have your soil tested at your local extension service. If the soil pH is over 7, the soil pH is restricting the ability of the plant to get iron from the soil. You can learn more about lowering soil pH in this article.
Correcting Soil That Has Too Much Clay Clay soil lacks organic material. The lack of organic material is actually the reason that a plant cannot get iron from clay soil. There are trace nutrients in organic material that the plant needs in order to take the iron into its roots. If clay soil is causing iron chlorosis, correcting an iron deficiency in plants means working in organic material like peat moss and compost into the soil.
Improving Compacted Or Overly Wet Soil If your soil is compacted or too wet, the roots do not have enough air to properly take up enough iron for the plant. If the soil is too wet, you will need to improve the drainage of the soil. If the soil is compacted, oftentimes it can be difficult to reverse this so other methods of getting iron to the plant is usually employed. If you are unable to correct the drainage or reverse compaction, you can use a chelated iron as either a foliar spray or a soil supplement. This will further increase the iron content available to the plant and counter the weakened ability of the plant to take up iron through its roots.
Reducing Phosphorus in the Soil Too much phosphorus can block the uptake of iron by the plant and cause leaf chlorosis. Typically, this condition is caused by using a fertilizer that is too high in phosphorus. Use a fertilizer that is lower in phosphorus (the middle number) to help bring the soil back in balance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Getting a plant to flower can sometimes seem like a daunting task. If you find that you have no flowers on a plant, the cause is usually related to a number of issues that include anything from a plant’s age to environmental and cultural factors, as well as poor pruning methods. When a plant does not bloom, this normally indicates that there are other issues causing problems.
Common Reasons Why a Plant Does Not Bloom There are numerous reasons why plants may not flower. Here are the most common reasons for non-flowering in plants: Age – In many cases, a plant is simply too young to bloom. In fact, it can oftentimes take up to two or three years for some plants to mature, and others may take even longer to bloom. Flowering can also be altered on grafted plants, depending on the age and type of rootstock used. In addition, some plants, like many fruit trees, only flower every other year. Environmental/Cultural issues – Sometimes when you have plants not flowering, it’s due to environmental or cultural issues. For instance, light can play a huge factor in whether or not a plant will bloom. Some plants, like poinsettia, require prolonged periods of darkness to induce flowering. Most, however, need at least six to eight hours of sunlight before blooming takes place.
Temperature – Temperature also affects blooming. Low temperatures can quickly damage or kill flower buds, resulting in no flowers on a plant. In some cases though, a plant needs to go through a cold period to provoke flowering. This is true of many spring-flowering bulbs, such as tulips. In addition, the bloom cycle can be disrupted by extremes in temperature, moisture levels, humidity, and winds. Poor pollination – A lack of adequate pollinators can inhibit both flower and fruit production. Oftentimes, weather can be a factor here, as windy, cold, or wet weather can limit bee activity resulting in poor pollination. Hand pollinating plants can help as can encouraging additional pollinators to the area.
Nutrient imbalance – Too much nitrogen can result in lush, green growth but too much can also reduce flowering. Too little phosphorus can also be the cause for plants not flowering. Improper pruning – Pruning is another factor. If not pruned correctly or at the appropriate time, especially with plants that bloom on new wood, flowering can significantly be reduced.
Getting a Plant to Flower While we cannot control things like age or weather, we can fix factors such as light, fertilizer, and pruning. For example, if your plant is not blooming because it is not getting enough light, you can simply move it to a more appropriate location. If too much nitrogen is to blame, back off fertilizing and wash away excess nitrogen by soaking the plant with water. Then resume fertilizing with a bloom-boosting fertilizer that increases phosphorus.
Learning how and when to prune plants will not only keep them healthy and attractive but will also prevent bud formation from being disturbed. While it can no doubt be disconcerting when a plant is not blooming, a little patience may be in order, especially when Mother Nature is to blame. Otherwise, becoming familiar with the most common causes that inhibit flowering can help with alleviating any future problems.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
When the weather suddenly skyrockets with temperatures above 85 F. (29 C.), many plants will inevitably suffer from ill effects. However, with adequate care of outdoor plants in extreme heat, the effects of heat stress on plants, including vegetables, can be minimized.
How Plants Cope with Heat So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Odd little bumps on leaves and funny protuberances on your plant’s foliage may be a sign of pest, bacterial or fungal problems. These galls may look like they are hurting the plant’s health, but leaf galls on plants are actually harmless. There are nearly as many types of galls as there are causes. Leaf gall identification is tricky, as many galls look similar. Galls are often named after their tree species and may be confined to one family or genus of plant.
Causes for Leaf Galls on Plants Leaf galls on plants are usually the result of mites and other sucking insects that make their homes under the plant tissue. Their feeding activities cause some galls, while chemicals secreted during egg growth in saliva or even excretions, may cause the changes to plant tissue. These changes may not be limited to bumps on leaves. Flowers, fruits, and even roots can develop these changes in tissue. Leaf galls are also sometimes found on stems and trunks. Other causes for galls are fungal and bacterial diseases.
What Does Leaf Gall Look Like? When it come to leaf gall identification, even the most experienced gardener may wonder, what does leaf gall look like? The appearance is generally recognized as a bump, peak or scabby area of plant flesh. They are firm to the touch and they may be thickly coating a plant, found singly or in pairs. Leaf galls on plants might be green and match the plant material. They might also be bright pink or red and resemble large pimples.
Many galls are named for their appearance. There are blister, bud, nipple, pouch and roly-poly galls to name a few. Other galls are named for the plant affected, such as oak tree galls. Still other galls get their name from the area affected. These are bud, flower, leaf, twig and root galls. Galls aren’t necessarily bad for your plants but they can mar the appearance of prize and ornamental specimens. In these cases, it is important to know how to treat leaf gall.
How to Treat Leaf Gall It is easier to prevent leaf galls than to treat them once they are there. In fact, treatment is not recommended, as the galls are doing no harm and any chemical formulation used could actually do more harm than good. Before you ever see bumps on leaves or other plant parts, spray with a miticide to prevent galls on ornamental plants. Horticultural oils and some insecticides will be effective but not after the mites are under the surface of the plant. Don’t use broad spectrum insecticides, which will harm potential predators of the gall mites.
Give the plant good and appropriate care to encourage good health. Reduce the chance of injury to plant stems and trunks which could encourage the introduction of insects, fungal or bacterial diseases. The most fool proof way to avoid galls is to choose plants that are resistant to the most prevalent varieties in your zone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
In many parts of the country, gardeners have considerable anxiety when summer temperatures rise, especially when they rise in combination with low rainfall amounts. While some vegetables suffer more than others, all feel some degree of stress with rising temperatures. Dealing with heat stress can be frustrating for gardeners, so it’s important to find ways for protecting plants in scorching temps. Keep reading to learn more about how to protect vegetables in hot weather.
Continued exposure to high temperatures can cause leaf scorch, leaf drop and even leaf sunburn. In addition, high temperatures interfere with photosynthesis and can cause a buildup of toxins in plants. Plants that are stressed because of the heat may develop misshapen or bitter fruit. Gardeners need to know how to protect vegetables in hot weather in order to avoid irreversible damage.
Protecting Plants in Scorching Temps One of the most popular ways of protecting plants in the summer heat is by using a shade cloth for gardens. A simple garden shade cloth can be strung between supports or a more elaborate structure can be constructed in areas that are prone to oppressive heat. Trellises and pergolas can also help create shade to protect plants during the hottest time of the day.
In addition, providing plenty of water during times of high heat is useful in dealing with heat stress. It is best to use a drip irrigation system and check this regularly to be sure that all plants are being fed an adequate supply of water. A misting system is also useful and helps reduce plant tissue temperature. Keeping plants well hydrated gives them the ammunition that they need to fight off the stress caused by scorching temperatures. You should provide mulch around plants to help with moisture retention as well when protecting plants in scorching temps.
Healthy Plants Do Best When Dealing with Heat Stress One of the best ways to protect your plants from extremely high temperatures is to be sure that you provide all of the nutrients necessary for them to be healthy. Rich organic soil, organic fertilizer, plenty of water and lots of TLC will keep your veggie garden ready to stand when the high temperatures hit.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
The beauty of flower color hides an extraordinarily complex process of pigmentation and light reflection. Flower color draws pollinators and allows us to create captivating gardens full of vibrancy and flair. However, sometimes we experience fading flower color. Something happens that causes the once vibrant color of a flower to dampen. Although this may seem rather perplexing at first, there are many reasons for a flower losing color.
Why are My Flowers Fading? You may be asking “why are my flowers fading?” Some flowers are acutely sensitive to heat and extreme sun. Too much exposure to sun or heat drains the flowers of their bright colors. Many flowers prefer morning sun and filtered afternoon light. Other causes of faded flower color include the fact that flowers generally fade after pollination. Once pollinated, flowers no longer need to attract their pollinating suitors and, thus, begin to fade.
Flowers may also change colors or fade when they are stressed. This can happen if a plant has just been transplanted. Give the plant some time to adapt to its new location before becoming overly anxious. Some bulbous plants, such as daffodil and gladiolus, tend to fade with age. This is one reason why gardeners will dig up old bulbs and replace them with new ones. Finally, soil acidity may be responsible for altering or fading flower color. A popular example of this phenomenon occurs with hydrangeas that seem to be particularly sensitive to the amount of acid in the soil.
How to Fix Color Fading in Flowers Paying particular attention to the growing requirements of flowers will help keep their colors from fading. Move plants that appear to be planted in a spot where they are unhappy. Many times fading is normal and is part of the natural progression of a plant. Although science cannot always explain why flower color fades, it is clear that flowers, like humans, have a lifespan and often as they near the end of their lifespan they tend to produce less vibrant blooms than they did at the beginning of their life.
If you experience flower fading and your plant is not stressed, just accept it as part of evolution of your garden and don’t try to fix something that really is not broken.
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