绿手指
首页
动态
文章
百科
花园
设置
简体中文
已关注
+
关注
花园 (6)
动态 (3585)
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Leaf cuttings are easier than they look, and it is very satisfying to see the young plants growing from the old leaf.
There are a number of succulents that can be propagated easily this way: Gasteria, Haworthia, Sansevieria and plants of the Crassulaceae family (Crassula, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum).
The easy way is just to get a leaf. Let the cut dry out in the shade for a day to a week, and just place them on top of the soil. Do not bury or semi-bury into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. The soil should be well drained. If you need to improvise good growing soil, mix half well-rotted compost with half fine pumice or grit. You can expect to see a change in the leaf after 3-4 weeks and the young plants will take a season to develop into new plants.
The leaves need water at some point but only a light sprinkling. While “grown-up” succulents only need to be watered every week, or even once a month (depending on the season/heat), the leaves need to be watered constantly without being watered too much. Only water the soil after it is dry.
The temperature is an important factor. Succulents of the Crassulaceae family will root better in the fall, and in late winter/early spring. They will generally not root in the summer, but rather slowly dry out, or rot. The rule of thumb is that the leaf cuttings has chances to grow only if the parent plant is actively growing.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the amazing things about succulents is how easy they are to grow. From one plant you can easily get multiple plants, making them an investment worth indulging in! Regrowing you own succulents can be quick and easy, and you don’t even need the greenest of thumbs. Take a look below at how to regrow succulents in a few easy steps, so you can enjoy multiple pots of these gorgeous plants.
How to Cut First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Crassula ovata commonly known as Jade Plant, Money Plant, Dollar Plant, Friendship Tree, Pink Joy or Lucky Plant, is a succulent plant with small pink or white flowers. It is native to South Africa and Mozambique, and is one of the most popular houseplants grown worldwide.
Jade Plant is often touted as one of the easiest plants to work with. It can be propagated easily and grows relatively quickly. It is tolerant of different soil types, and can survive in soil that is wetter than normal for short periods of time. For propagation, soil should be extremely fertile, and conditioned for moderate to low soil acidity.
How Jade Propagates Commonly, Jade Plant is propagated from cuttings. You can root leaf or stem pieces, but be warned that leaves will take considerably longer to show any appreciable growth. For best results, use stem pieces that are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) long. Jade Plant is a great survivor, so long as the soil is rich and alive.
Rooting For the Jade Plant, start clippings in a planter or flower pot that you can move. The plant will need direct sunlight for at least 6 hours of the day, and it will be important to maintain the soil moisture. These conditions are best met with a portable plant, so use a flower pot filled with sifted compost, and move it as needed to get adequate sunlight.
Rich Soil Encourages Root Growth For the fastest development from clippings, use pure sifted compost. Increasing the level of nutrients in the soil will make it easier for the Jade Plant to get the things it needs to put on new leaves and grow strong roots.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant valued for its vivid, bright colors, and tightly clustered bouquets of little flowers. It’s hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, but makes an excellent indoor plant. Kalanchoe flowers can start losing their vibrancy in the second and third years of growth, but propagation methods are easy and can produce young, healthy varieties that grow from 36 to 48 inches (90 to 120 cm). The seeds from cross-pollination can produce some interesting hybrids as well, but there’s no guarantee that there will be a particular resemblance to the parent plants. If you want to give it a try and see what you get, seed propagation is right for you. If you would rather have more of the same plant, you can propagate Kalanchoe plants by using cuttings.
Seeds Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.
To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen. The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.
Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.
Leaf Cuttings If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.
The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.
Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.
Seedling Care After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.
Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.
Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.
Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings. 4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing a collection of succulents for your indoor garden starts with one you already own.
1. Cut the Heads Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.
2. Pluck Leaves Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.
3. Arrange and Water Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.
4. Tend To The Pups Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Dummer. ゛☀
Opuntia, also known as Prickly Pear Cacti are easily identified by their upside-down pear-shaped pads or segments. Their fleshy pads produce large showy flowers in the spring that turn into red, spiny fruits later in the season. There are more than 150 varieties of Prickly Pear Cacti, all of which are hardy in Sunset’s Climate Zones 12 through 24. These drought-tolerant plants make very low-maintenance houseplants that add a bit of Southwestern flair to a room’s decor. Prickly Pear Cacti are easily propagated through cuttings.
1. Put on heavy work gloves to protect your hands from injury while working with the cactus. Take a cutting from a healthy, disease-free Prickly Pear Cactus. Harvest cuttings only when nighttime temperatures are a constant 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose a pad, or oval segment, without blemish or scars that is 6 months old. Grasp the top of the pad gently in one hand. Cut the pad off the parent plant at the natural seam at its bottom using a knife.
2. Place the cutting on a flat surface in filtered sunlight. Choose a dry room that has constant temperatures of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or higher. Leave the cutting for 7 to 10 days to form callus tissue over the cut edge. 3. Mix one part perlite with one part compost to create a well-draining growing medium to plant the cactus in. Fill a container with the mixture, leaving the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) empty. Use a container with drainage holes in its bottom.
4. Set the cactus cutting with the callused edge resting on the soil in the center of the pot. Push one-third to one-half of the cutting into the soil mixture. Tamp the soil down around the base of the cactus until the cutting is able to stand upright on its own. 5. Water the planted cutting using a watering can until the soil is evenly moist. Place the pot in a warm room — 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) or warmer — in filtered sunlight. Water the cactus when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil begins to dry out.
6. Decrease supplemental watering to 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water applied every seven days once the cactus becomes established and begins to produce new growth. Follow this water regimen during the months when nighttime temperatures remain above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Give the cactus 1/4 inch (6 mm) of water every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
7. Move the cactus to full sunlight indoors once it begins producing new growth to begin acclimating it to brighter light. Move the cactus to full sunlight outdoors after 2 weeks if you eventually plan to plant the cactus outdoors in the ground.
8. Grow the cactus in the container for at least one year. Transplant the cactus plant in the spring once soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Plant the cactus in an area that receives full sunlight and contains well-draining soil. Dig a hole equal in depth and twice as wide as the plant’s root ball. Place the root ball in the center of the hole. Backfill the hole with soil and tamp it down firmly. Water the cactus immediately after planting.
9. Water the planted cactus once per week when nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). Water the cactus every 14 days when nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius).
0
0
文章
60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75
相关用户
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： Faye
朝阳
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 小松树快乐
长沙
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 水中月
赣州市
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 艺源
广安市
芦荟
芦荟
来自： 采元气少女✨
长沙
茉莉花
茉莉花
来自： 阿罗
南昌
芦荟
芦荟
来自： Bailu_Yuan
北京
白掌
白掌
来自： 韩凯
武汉
绿萝
绿萝
来自： 阿罗
南昌
举报 反馈

您有什么意见或建议，欢迎给我们留言。

请输入内容
提交
取消
设置
VIP
退出登录
关闭
分享

分享好文，绿手指（GFinger）养花助手见证你的成长。

关闭
请前往电脑端操作

请前往电脑端操作

关闭
转发
插入话题
提醒好友
发布
/
提交成功 提交失败 最大图片质量 成功 警告 啊哦！ 出了点小问题 转发成功 举报 转发 显示更多 _zh 文章 求助 动态 刚刚 回复 邀你一起尬聊！ 表情 添加图片 评论 仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF 图片尺寸不得小于300*300px 最少上传一张图片 请输入内容