文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
Herbs are plants, even those we might consider weeds, that have useful purposes. They may be used for flavorings, fragrances, pesticides, medicines or dyes. Succulent plants are generally recognized has having fleshy parts, such as leaves, stems or trunks; this fleshiness is a result of water storage in the plant’s tissues. Although there aren’t many plants that are both succulent and herbal, a few genera possess both qualities.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
Purslane
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, is one of those plants that are considered weedy by most gardeners. It has small, green leaves on fleshy red stems and stays low to the ground. It has a slightly sour and lemony flavor and is eaten in a variety of ways. Most people just eat it raw in salads, but it can be sauteed and seasoned in the same way one would cook spinach, and even pickled with garlic and peppercorns. It is also known as Little Hogweed.
Aloe
Aloe may likely be one of the more popular succulent herbs. Aloes form a rosette of thick, fleshy leaves with a slightly frosty blue-green color. Aloe vera is probably the best-known species. It is most often used as a houseplant but can be grown outside in USDA zones 10 through 11. Because it is not frost hardy, some people in zone 9 choose to grow Aloe ferox, which has much the same appearance but is slightly hardier. These Aloes are often used medicinally. The jelly-like substance that exudes from the cut leaves is often applied to minor wounds or burns.
Indian Borage and Cuban Oregano
Indian Borage (Plectranthus aromaticus or Coleus aromaticus) is also called the All Purpose Herb. The leaves are strongly oregano-flavored but not particularly palatable for salads because of their fuzzy leaves. The leaves are commonly used to flavor meats; however, there are also some traditional medicinal uses as well. Cuban Oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus, also called French or Mexican Oregano) also has similar culinary and medicinal uses and has a similar flavor. There is a pretty variegated variety (Plectranthus amboinicus ‘Variegata’) that has a thin cream edge, making it an attractive garden plant. Both of these herb species are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11 but are grown as annuals elsewhere.
Other Succulent Herbs
The herb Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) forms a mound of glossy green leaves and clouds of small pink flowers on wiry stems. The foliage is used medicinally and the tangy leaves are eaten fresh or sauteed. The cultivar Talinum paniculatum ‘Limon’ bears chartreuse leaves, and Talinum paniculatum ‘Variegatum’ has creamy white variegation. All are hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11. Samphire, or Sea Fennel (Crithmum maritimum), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 11, has feathery blue-green leaves and pale yellow flower clusters. Leaves are eaten fresh or pickled, and they have traditional medicinal uses as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Many gardeners cherish succulent plants for their ease of care and beauty. Although most plants of this classification are very simple to grow, a few stand out as being particularly low maintenance choices that are ideal for beginning gardeners as well as experienced enthusiasts with the greenest of thumbs.
1. Aloe
Aloe plants come in a wide variety of species of differing shapes and sizes. The numerous species are easy to grow, and Aloe succulents such as Aloe juvenna, Aloe tenuior, and Aloe andongensis generally only require simple, basic care. Each Aloe forms with varying textures and patterns on the foliage, allowing gardeners to have much greater aesthetic variety in their homes and yards.
Aloe plants grow in the summer months and require little shade and regular watering during the growing season. Gardeners should keep the plants relatively dry during the winter. When kept in the sun in well-drained soil, Aloe succulents thrive. Other types of Aloe succulents include Aloe brevifolia, Aloe aristata, and Aloe ‘Black Gem’.
2. Agave
Agave succulent plants blossom in bright and warm places, such as on patios, decks, and sunny windowsills. Some smaller varieties, such as Agave victoriae-reginae and Agave parviflora, are also capable of flourishing indoors. Most Agave plants consist of rosettes that have thick, rigid succulent leaves and minimal teeth.
When caring for an Agave, a gardener should allow the plant to dry out between watering sessions. Agave plants can handle any type of well-drained soil, and the plants flourish in full sunlight. Although Agaves can survive periods of drought, it is best to provide ample water to encourage vigorous growth, especially if the plants are in the sun all day.
3. Crassula
Crassula is a succulent plant that many beginners love to grow. Ranging in size from an inch (2.5 cm) tall to large shrubs, Crassulas require good light and a soil mix that drains well if gardeners want to maintain appealing leaf colors and encourage the plants to flower. Watering the plants regularly during spring and summer is ideal, but Crassula plants generally require less water in the winter months. The plants are drought tolerant, and they require cutting and shaping to avoid becoming disorderly.
Good options for Crassulas include the Crassula arborescens, Crassula ‘Blue Bird’, and Crassula ovata. This succulent is very strong and looks attractive mixed with other plants, making it an excellent low maintenance option for beginners.
4. Adromischus
Native to South Africa, the Adromischus plant is a small succulent shrub with oddly shaped leaves. The leaves feature interesting markings that are inconsistent, offering gardeners aesthetic diversity. The Adromischus cristatus is a very low maintenance succulent that is popular with growers. Other options include Adromischus clavifolius, Adromischus cooperi, and Adromischus leucophyllus.
Care for Adromischus succulent plants entails keeping soil well drained and providing the plants with a dry atmosphere with some shade. They require water mainly in the spring and autumn, and gardeners should allow Adromischus to dry out between watering sessions.
5. Echeveria
Many gardeners choose Echeveria as their favourite succulent because of the popular variations in color and shape. Echeveria shows its most brilliant colors during cooler months, and the plants typically flower during warmer months in shades of orange, red, and pink. Some of the most popular varieties of the plant include Echeveria albicans, Echeveria colorata, Echeveria ‘Dondo’, and Echeveria agavoides.
This succulent can tolerate lengthy dry periods, but it flourishes when it receives adequate water during the growing periods. Porous soil prevents root rot with the Echeveria plant, and ventilation minimizes the risk of pest infestations and disease. Typically, Echeveria plants have better color and shape when they receive more sunlight, although the plant still requires some sun protection during scorching summer weather.
1. Aloe
Aloe plants come in a wide variety of species of differing shapes and sizes. The numerous species are easy to grow, and Aloe succulents such as Aloe juvenna, Aloe tenuior, and Aloe andongensis generally only require simple, basic care. Each Aloe forms with varying textures and patterns on the foliage, allowing gardeners to have much greater aesthetic variety in their homes and yards.
Aloe plants grow in the summer months and require little shade and regular watering during the growing season. Gardeners should keep the plants relatively dry during the winter. When kept in the sun in well-drained soil, Aloe succulents thrive. Other types of Aloe succulents include Aloe brevifolia, Aloe aristata, and Aloe ‘Black Gem’.
2. Agave
Agave succulent plants blossom in bright and warm places, such as on patios, decks, and sunny windowsills. Some smaller varieties, such as Agave victoriae-reginae and Agave parviflora, are also capable of flourishing indoors. Most Agave plants consist of rosettes that have thick, rigid succulent leaves and minimal teeth.
When caring for an Agave, a gardener should allow the plant to dry out between watering sessions. Agave plants can handle any type of well-drained soil, and the plants flourish in full sunlight. Although Agaves can survive periods of drought, it is best to provide ample water to encourage vigorous growth, especially if the plants are in the sun all day.
3. Crassula
Crassula is a succulent plant that many beginners love to grow. Ranging in size from an inch (2.5 cm) tall to large shrubs, Crassulas require good light and a soil mix that drains well if gardeners want to maintain appealing leaf colors and encourage the plants to flower. Watering the plants regularly during spring and summer is ideal, but Crassula plants generally require less water in the winter months. The plants are drought tolerant, and they require cutting and shaping to avoid becoming disorderly.
Good options for Crassulas include the Crassula arborescens, Crassula ‘Blue Bird’, and Crassula ovata. This succulent is very strong and looks attractive mixed with other plants, making it an excellent low maintenance option for beginners.
4. Adromischus
Native to South Africa, the Adromischus plant is a small succulent shrub with oddly shaped leaves. The leaves feature interesting markings that are inconsistent, offering gardeners aesthetic diversity. The Adromischus cristatus is a very low maintenance succulent that is popular with growers. Other options include Adromischus clavifolius, Adromischus cooperi, and Adromischus leucophyllus.
Care for Adromischus succulent plants entails keeping soil well drained and providing the plants with a dry atmosphere with some shade. They require water mainly in the spring and autumn, and gardeners should allow Adromischus to dry out between watering sessions.
5. Echeveria
Many gardeners choose Echeveria as their favourite succulent because of the popular variations in color and shape. Echeveria shows its most brilliant colors during cooler months, and the plants typically flower during warmer months in shades of orange, red, and pink. Some of the most popular varieties of the plant include Echeveria albicans, Echeveria colorata, Echeveria ‘Dondo’, and Echeveria agavoides.
This succulent can tolerate lengthy dry periods, but it flourishes when it receives adequate water during the growing periods. Porous soil prevents root rot with the Echeveria plant, and ventilation minimizes the risk of pest infestations and disease. Typically, Echeveria plants have better color and shape when they receive more sunlight, although the plant still requires some sun protection during scorching summer weather.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a succulent native to South Africa, now a familiar garden and houseplant around the world, largely due to how easy it is to care for. It is tolerant of poor sandy soil, prefers to be root bound in a pot and doesn’t need too much watering. With minimal care, these plants can live for decades. Only in regions where the temperatures are extreme, do you even have to worry about the temperature in which to keep your Jade Plant. Jade Plants actually need some exposure to cooler temperatures in the winter to thrive.
Hardy Zones
Jade Plant is considered hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, with temperature ranges of 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 to 10 degrees Celsius) in the winter. Throughout much of the West Coast and southern states, the Jade Plant can live outdoors even in the winter.
Best Temperatures
Jade Plants will tolerate lower temperatures and even prefer the lower temperatures of about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 13 degrees Celsius) in the winter.
Cold Temperature Damage
If exposed to frost or low temperatures for too long, your Jade Plant may appear limp. If this occurs, you may just need to wait and see if the plant revives. Cut back any stems that turn black or appear rotted. Don’t be tempted to overwater the plant to revive it. Let the soil dry out before watering. Bring it indoors into a room that gets good ambient sunlight.
Protection from Cold Temperatures
If you live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius), you should keep your Jade Plant in a pot and bring it indoors for the winter. You can move it back outdoors in the spring when temperatures are regularly above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). If you live in a region where temperatures only sometimes drop too low for your Jade Plant, then it will probably be fine outdoors with some protection from frost, such as bringing it onto a covered patio, covering it with cloth, or stringing Christmas lights onto the plant.
Hardy Zones
Jade Plant is considered hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, with temperature ranges of 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 to 10 degrees Celsius) in the winter. Throughout much of the West Coast and southern states, the Jade Plant can live outdoors even in the winter.
Best Temperatures
Jade Plants will tolerate lower temperatures and even prefer the lower temperatures of about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 13 degrees Celsius) in the winter.
Cold Temperature Damage
If exposed to frost or low temperatures for too long, your Jade Plant may appear limp. If this occurs, you may just need to wait and see if the plant revives. Cut back any stems that turn black or appear rotted. Don’t be tempted to overwater the plant to revive it. Let the soil dry out before watering. Bring it indoors into a room that gets good ambient sunlight.
Protection from Cold Temperatures
If you live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius), you should keep your Jade Plant in a pot and bring it indoors for the winter. You can move it back outdoors in the spring when temperatures are regularly above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). If you live in a region where temperatures only sometimes drop too low for your Jade Plant, then it will probably be fine outdoors with some protection from frost, such as bringing it onto a covered patio, covering it with cloth, or stringing Christmas lights onto the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Dasylirion is a small genus of 18 semi-succulent species. These truly striking plants are native to the southern United States and Mexico, closely resembling both Yuccas and Agaves. They are found in very arid lands, along dry washes and on rocky hillsides where soils are porous and extremely well drained. In their region of origin no rain may fall for 10 months or more, and these plants have adapted to surviving such extended drought.
Dasylirions produce enormous rosettes of foliage that is narrow, often stiff, and serrated at the edges. Some species are significantly barbed while others are smooth. Leaves may be just the width of a kebob skewer or flat and ribbon like, blue in color and slightly twisted. Over time the plants develop hefty trunks that may be left natural with their cloak of dead dry leaves or pruned clean for a more architectural form.
These plants bloom often but not every year. They are diecious, which means male and female flowers are borne on separate plants. When flowering they send up rigid stalks to the height of a one-story rooftop. The upper half to third is thickly covered pale yellow hooked blossoms that are pollinated by a wide range of day and night flying insects. After flowering the dried stalks are coveted for grouping in decorative urns.
Only a few species of Dasylirion are commonly grown, but these can be remarkably drought, heat and cold tolerant. The most significant in the modern design world is the hemispherical wiry Dasylirion longissimum. Valued for its flat blue leaves, Dasylirion wheeleri is preferred as an outdoor landscape plant for desert gardens with a cast iron constitution. The green desert spoon, Dasylirion acrotriche of Mexico is preferred for its coloring which lends a more lush character to the garden.
All Dasylirion species are growing in popularity as a drought resistant landscape plant well beyond the desert environment. Provided soils are well drained and there is little summer rain they should be widely adaptable. The common name, Desert Spoon, is derived from the leaves which, when plucked from the stalk bear a spoon-shaped base used by Native Americans. They also utilized the fibrous leaves to weave baskets, mats and other useful objects.
Growing Condition and General Care
Dasylirions are slow growing, carefree and durable, drought tolerant plant. However, they grow faster if watered well (don’t water the crown, though they rot easily). In the garden they should be placed in a sunny, well-drained area with additional summer water in dry climates.
These make great specimen plants for xeriscape gardens and blend well in either tropical or arid gardens. Small plants are relatively inexpensive, but larger ones are a fortune. These make excellent potted specimens, and their symmetrical form provides a striking focal point.
They thrive best in full sun, but can be grown with some shade and humidity. Plant in very fast draining soil and provide little or no water in winter. Treat like a succulent. Best where winter temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C), but can take some periods of frost. Plants in containers can be moved inside during longer cold spells.
Propagation
Easy to propagate from seeds or cuttings.
Dasylirions produce enormous rosettes of foliage that is narrow, often stiff, and serrated at the edges. Some species are significantly barbed while others are smooth. Leaves may be just the width of a kebob skewer or flat and ribbon like, blue in color and slightly twisted. Over time the plants develop hefty trunks that may be left natural with their cloak of dead dry leaves or pruned clean for a more architectural form.
These plants bloom often but not every year. They are diecious, which means male and female flowers are borne on separate plants. When flowering they send up rigid stalks to the height of a one-story rooftop. The upper half to third is thickly covered pale yellow hooked blossoms that are pollinated by a wide range of day and night flying insects. After flowering the dried stalks are coveted for grouping in decorative urns.
Only a few species of Dasylirion are commonly grown, but these can be remarkably drought, heat and cold tolerant. The most significant in the modern design world is the hemispherical wiry Dasylirion longissimum. Valued for its flat blue leaves, Dasylirion wheeleri is preferred as an outdoor landscape plant for desert gardens with a cast iron constitution. The green desert spoon, Dasylirion acrotriche of Mexico is preferred for its coloring which lends a more lush character to the garden.
All Dasylirion species are growing in popularity as a drought resistant landscape plant well beyond the desert environment. Provided soils are well drained and there is little summer rain they should be widely adaptable. The common name, Desert Spoon, is derived from the leaves which, when plucked from the stalk bear a spoon-shaped base used by Native Americans. They also utilized the fibrous leaves to weave baskets, mats and other useful objects.
Growing Condition and General Care
Dasylirions are slow growing, carefree and durable, drought tolerant plant. However, they grow faster if watered well (don’t water the crown, though they rot easily). In the garden they should be placed in a sunny, well-drained area with additional summer water in dry climates.
These make great specimen plants for xeriscape gardens and blend well in either tropical or arid gardens. Small plants are relatively inexpensive, but larger ones are a fortune. These make excellent potted specimens, and their symmetrical form provides a striking focal point.
They thrive best in full sun, but can be grown with some shade and humidity. Plant in very fast draining soil and provide little or no water in winter. Treat like a succulent. Best where winter temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C), but can take some periods of frost. Plants in containers can be moved inside during longer cold spells.
Propagation
Easy to propagate from seeds or cuttings.
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super.is1
2017年09月28日
I need help identifying this succulent. I've had it for half a year and it has recently made a cluster of coral coloured bell-shaped flowers. I bought it in a set of 3 and none had tags. If you have any idea I'd love to know as I'd quite like to propagate but I don't know if pulling leaves will work :) thx
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Blue Puya, or Turquoise Puya, is a bromeliad and closely related to the pineapple. The plant is a rare specimen that hails from Chile in the Andes Mountains. It is part of several cactus and succulent plant collections but is not found wild in North America. Seeds are available to order or you may be able to get a hold of a division if you are lucky. These are the two main ways of propagating Puya plants and enjoying for yourself the majestic flower spires and classic rosettes of this succulent.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
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求助
imightbeagiant
2017年09月27日
I can't quite tell what this succulent is, the closest I can find is senecio serpens but I'm not 100% sure, does anybody know?
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求助
Deanna Dubbs
2017年09月27日
Can someone help identify this beautiful succulent? Thank you!
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轻云蔽月：@Deanna Dubbs It isGuanyin lotus
Deanna Dubbs：@damian saul thanks !
damian saul：it's a tipe of echeveria
求助
plant_boi
2017年09月24日
I'm getting a Succulent or two so I can liven up my room a touch and see just how green my thumb is. Any basic tips on caring for Succulents? Thank you :)
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rebeccamee：Water them when the soil dries out. Make sure they have enough sunlight.
lrgarden：Less water more sunshine
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A range of fungal and bacterial diseases affect succulent plants, some of which can collapse and die very rapidly, once the disease has taken a hold. The world abounds with fungal spores, which are opportunists, waiting for the correct conditions for germination. Generally, fungi do not affect cactus and succulent plant collections because of the relatively dry conditions used by most growers. Damp conditions are a universal requirement for activation of fungal spores, and many of the problems with fungal infection of succulent plants arise from failure of excessive watering or condensation to evaporate, because of unexpected or seasonal cold weather. Damage from insect pests, which penetrate the plant's epidermis to feed on sap, may provide a route for entry of fungi into the nutrient-rich inner tissues. Hence, unexpected collapse of a plant is often the final symptom of a mealy bug infestation which has gone unnoticed. On the other hand, some fungi provide their own mechanisms for penetrating the epidermis.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
Seedlings are especially susceptible to fungal attack of the lower stem which causes damping off. Once the seedling has wilted, it is usually too late to save it and preventative measure are a better option.
Aloe rust
is a fungus that causes round brown or black spots on leaves of Aloes and Gasterias. It is of some importance in commercial cultivation of Aloe vera. The black colour is caused by oxidation of phenolic substances in the sap which seals of the affected area. Once formed, the black spots are permanent and can be unsightly, but do not usually spread. Fungi can be discouraged by spraying with a systemic fungicide, but prevention is the best option. Do not allow water to lie on the leaves for long and avoid excess damp in cool weather. Arrange for plenty of air circulation and sunlight.
Black or Sooty Mold
A ubiquitous fungus which is often seen on plants covered with honeydew from whitefly, mealy bugs etc or on plants with nectar-producing glands such as certain Ferocacti. Generally, sooty mould is more unsightly than harmful on otherwise healthy plants. However, it will attack seedlings following mechanical damage or excessively wet conditions and other weak or damaged plants.
Basal Stem Rot
Cold or damp conditions may lead to rotting of stems, often just around the soil level where damp soil may be in prolonged contact with the plants stem. The rotten tissues may go black or reddish brown depending on the plant and organism attacking it. If the stem is cut well above the rotten part, it may be possible to re-root or graft the healthy tissues and save the plant. Many people support the basal stems of difficult plants with a layer of grit above the potting medium, so that there will be little water retention against the stem in this critical region.
A range of brown or gray spots spots on leaves and corky brown marks on stems of are undoubtably due to fungal attack following damage or prolonged contact with drops of water. Others may reflect poor cultural conditions or the natural development of corky or woody stems as the plant matures. In many cases, fungal attack and poor culture are linked. Improving ventilation, temperature control, watering and application of fertiliser may help to prevent all sorts of problems.
Growers of Asclepiads will be familiar with black spots developing on the stem which spread and develop into sunken patches of dead tissues. This fungal infection can spread to the whole plant unless the affected part is removed promptly or treated with fungicide. Usually this happens after overal-liberal water, perhaps where water droplets fail to evaporate because of unexpectedly cold conditions.
Control of Fungal Diseases
Once a plant has collapsed or the stems have started to become soft and rotten it is often too late to save it. However, an attempt may be made to save part of a valuable plant by cutting away the infected tissues with a clean knife, sterilised with methylated spirits. A wide margin of apparently sound tissue should be removed as the infection will almost certainly have spread further than is apparent. The remainder can be painted or dipped in a systemic fungicide such as Nimrod T or dusted with sulphur and rooted as a cutting or grafted onto a compatible stock.
Botrytis or damping off
This common cause of early loss of seedlings can be avoided by lightly spraying the potting mix with a systemic fungicide such as Benlate or Nimrod T. Spraying with a copper sulfate solution is a traditional remedy, but copper fungicides may accumulate in the soil with potential copper toxicity to plants. Any seedlings that become infected should be removed promptly before more spores are produced, the remaining seedlings sprayed with fungicide and surface moisture alllowed to evaporate.
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