文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Pachypodiums are succulent plants such as the cactus, but the basic difference is that the Pachypodiums have visible leaves, in some species the leaves are even very large in relation to plant (For example Pachypodium rutenbergianum, Pachypodium lamerei).
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The plants listed below are generally reliable and of easy culture, as long as you remember that no succulent plant likes to have prolonged moist soil; the potting mix should allow good drainage. Also, most succulents like quite bright light — they are not shade-loving plants. Those on this list are mostly smaller species that live amongst rocks or under other plants in nature, and therefore can tolerate somewhat lower lighting conditions.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Titanopsis is a small genus of dwarf succulents from the family of Aizoaceae. Naturally growing in the Upper Karoo in South Africa, it is an attractive but quite unusual plant because of its formation. The plant grows as a dwarf succulent and produces thick truncated leaves that have crumpled surface. These unusual leaves display all the hues of red, purple, green, cream and blue throughout the year. Flowers appear in late fall and winter. Like its cousins in the Aizoaceae family, Titanopsis produces small daisy-like flowers of yellow color.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aichryson is a genus of about 15 species of small tender succulent plants and sub-shrubs, of which 10 species are Canary Islands endemics and others are from the Azores, Madeira and Morocco.
They are related to the Canary Islands genera Aeonium and Monanthes which also have polymerous (many-parted) yellow flowers. The succulent leaves are pubescent to densely hairy. The inflorescence is a loose raceme of dozens to hundreds of yellow to greenish-yellow star-shaped flowers.
Aichryson grow as understory plants in the endemic laurel and pine forests of the Canary Islands and prefer to grow in slightly shaded moist soil with plenty of humus. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter kept fairly dry. Some species are annuals or biennials, but the shrubby perennials also need to be re-started from cuttings on a regular basis to be at their best. Many species produce volunteer seedlings around themselves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Aichrysons are very tolerant of mixed conditions and will tolerate considerable shade as well as full sun. Given the right conditions these plants will provide an incredible show of yellow flowers. Grow these plants hard with very little fertilizer because they can flower them selves to death. Aichrysons have a very structural trunk and make excellent bonsai subjects.
In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill.
They are related to the Canary Islands genera Aeonium and Monanthes which also have polymerous (many-parted) yellow flowers. The succulent leaves are pubescent to densely hairy. The inflorescence is a loose raceme of dozens to hundreds of yellow to greenish-yellow star-shaped flowers.
Aichryson grow as understory plants in the endemic laurel and pine forests of the Canary Islands and prefer to grow in slightly shaded moist soil with plenty of humus. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter kept fairly dry. Some species are annuals or biennials, but the shrubby perennials also need to be re-started from cuttings on a regular basis to be at their best. Many species produce volunteer seedlings around themselves after flowering.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Aichrysons are very tolerant of mixed conditions and will tolerate considerable shade as well as full sun. Given the right conditions these plants will provide an incredible show of yellow flowers. Grow these plants hard with very little fertilizer because they can flower them selves to death. Aichrysons have a very structural trunk and make excellent bonsai subjects.
In winter they require a rather sunny spot inside at moderate, cool temperatures. If they become too large, plants can be cut back. Cuttings will easily root within few days. These ornamental dwarf plants are excellent pot plants and will thrive in any partially shaded spot at cool temperatures, e.g. on a window sill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Fenestraria, also know as Baby Toes is a small genus of miniature succulent plants that can be grown indoor or outdoor as small ornamental plants. These tiny plants are characterized by clumps of small, soft and succulent leaves.
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
Fenestraria comes from arid regions of Namibia and South Africa where they grow and hide themselves in sandy soil in order to retain maximum water in their leaves protect them from harsh sunlight.
When grown as houseplants, they tend to produce large clumps of fleshy and soft leaves that look like pebbles or tiny toes, that is why, they are commonly described as Baby Toes plants.
Baby Toes are excellent choice for miniature gardens or as miniature indoor plants. They can be grown in containers as low-maintenance plants.
Either grown indoor or outdoor, Fenestraria loves bright but filtered sunlight in summer and protection from winter frost. The plant requires sandy and well-drained soil with regular dose of general fertilizer. Water only when the soil is completely dry because these plants cannot survive wet conditions.
Fenestraria plant produces white or yellow flowers in winter. Commercially available species are:
F. aurantiaca: Grows as dwarf (2 inches / 5 cm) succulent plant and produces grey-green leaves and yellow flowers.
F. rhopalophylla: Miniature succulent with white flowers and grey-green leaves; grows up to 1.6 inches (4 cm).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Faucaria is a genus of succulent subtropical plants of the family Aizoaceae. The species are collectively known as “Tiger Jaws”. This refers to the spiny looking edges of the leaves. The name comes from the Latin word “fauces” (= animal mouth) because of the appearance of leaves.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are popular plants in both containers and in the landscape—and for good reason. They are low maintenance, drought-tolerant and super easy to maintain. Even “brown thumb” types can keep a succulent alive.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
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求助
Tlhoward120
2017年09月20日
Hey friends-
Any idea what this orange haired succulent is?
Any idea what this orange haired succulent is?
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Tlhoward120：@Ueca thanks a million!
Ueca：Adromischus cristatus
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small- to medium-sized slow-growing Mexican member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). Pachyphytum leaves are plump and fleshy, and range in color from green to lovely orange and even purple. The leaves form a loose rosette. They may be grape-shaped or tubular, and may have a powdery coating called farina. Pachyphytum forms small, unimpressive bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer which are usually greenish-white and deep red, and which grow on long spikey inflorescences. Pachyphytum rosettes will not die after flowering. The genus name Pachyphytum comes from the Greek for “thick leaves”. It grows in both shrub-forming and stemless rosettes and eventually forms clumps.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
Pachyphytum plants are fairly hardy, and are common houseplants. However, like Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum is sensitive to being handled, as skin oil can damage leaves, in particular those with a pearlescent coloration or farina.
Growing Conditions
Pachyphytum will not tolerate frosts well. Temperatures below 20 °F (-6 °C) will kill the plant, and temperatures which may go below 45 °F (7 °C) during extended period should be avoided. Pachyphytum tolerates high heat and intense sunlight. As with most Crassulaceae, Pachyphytum can tolerate (and even appreciated) poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining. Pachyphytum can thrive in full or partial sunlight.
Allow the soil to dry out before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require more water, as winter begins its active growth season. If you are unsure when to water your Pachyphytum, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then. Pachyphytum is FAR more likely to survive under-watering than over-watering. The thick fleshy leaves will appear wilted and a bit “under-full” when they need water.
Propagation
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
General Care
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs. Avoid touching the healthy leaves of the plant, as your body oils will leave marks.
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Pests and Problems
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Pachyphytum may fall prey to this pest. The symptoms of a mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots or look at the leaf-stem junctions. A white cottony substance is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Dab the cottony spots with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alchohol. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, but be very careful in handling your Pachyphytum, it’s leaves are very sensitive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aptenia is a small genus of flowering plants in the family Aizoaceae. They are native to southern Africa. These are succulent subshrubs growing from a system of fibrous, often fleshy roots. The stems lie prostrate on the ground or may climb. The stem bases are woody, and the stems are green. The leaves are mostly oppositely arranged, but those near the inflorescences may be alternate. The leaf blades are flat, hairless, sometimes waxy, and usually heart-shaped, or occasionally lance-shaped. Flowers are solitary or grow in small, whorled clusters, usually in the leaf axils along the stem. The flower is about 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide. There are two large sepals and two smaller. The corolla contains many narrow petals in shades of pink, purple, yellow, or white, and several staminodes that look very much like the petals. The many fertile stamens at the center are white or yellow. The fruit is a capsule with four valves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Monanthes is a genus of small, succulent, subtropical plants of the Crassulaceae family. The about ten species are mostly endemic to the Canary Islands and Savage Islands, with some found on Madeira. Its center of diversity is Tenerife, with seven species occurring on this island. On Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, only Monanthes laxiflora occurs.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rosularia is a rosette forming member of the succulent family Crassulaceae (making them relatives of Kalanchoe and Jade Plant). They closely resemble other rosette forming Crassulaceae such as Sempervivum and Echeveria, although they are more closely related to the genus Sedum.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
Rosularia‘s flat leaves range in colour from glaucus green to lovely dusky rose. The leaf margins may be lined with small hairs, called cillia or a contrasting colour to the rest of the leaf. The leaves will be brighter in summer, when the natural light is brighter. Rosularia tends to have small rosettes, and beautiful funnel or tube-shaped flowers which grow on tall inflorescenses (usually from the rosette’s center) and range in color from white and yellow, to bright pinks and purples and may be striped. Rosularia rosettes will not die after flowering (polycarpic, versus monocarpic). Rosularia blooms in late spring.
Like Sempervivum, Rosularia are cold-tolerant alpine succulents which are found natively in the mountains and hills of Turkey, Cyprus, North Africa, and Asia. These plants are fairly hardy, but is a hard-to-find plant in cultivation. North and South American rosette-forming Crassulaceae are more common.
Rosularia will propagate themselves through the formation of offshoots, also called “pups” (some species are more prolific than others). In cultivation, the grower would propagate Rosularia using leaf cuttings or separation of offsets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun is ideal in environments which are not too hot, but partial shade is satisfactory for most species. When grown in a hot environment, these plants should not be placed in full sun, or the plant will scorch and die.
Temperature: Like Sempervivum, Rosularia will tolerate cold. This plant can withstand -10°F to 0°F temperatures (-23°C to -17°C).
Water: Potted Rosularia should be watered when the soil is moderately dry. Allow the soil to dry out to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm) before watering, and be careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. In winter, the plants will require less water, as reduced temperature and humidity will induce dormancy. If you are unsure when to water your Rosularia, watch the lower most leaves for signs of drying and water them then.
Soil: Rosularia can tolerate poor soil conditions, so long as it is well draining.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
As mentioned above, the plant self-propagates through offshoots, and given time one plant will form a dense mat of many. In cultivation, however, it is more common for the grower to use offset separation or leaf cutting methods. To separate an offset, remove soil from the base of the offset to find the stolon (thick root which attaches the pup to the mother plant). It is best to use an offset which has already established some roots of its own. Cut the stolon close to the pup (to discourage roots growing from the stolon). Place the offset into a small pot with well-draining, sandy soil. Do not water until new growth is noted.
Leaf cutting entails cutting a young leaf from near the center of the rosette. Leave the leaf out in the open air for a day to allow the wound to callous over. Dip the leaf into rooting hormone (such as RootOne, which can be purchased almost anywhere you buy plants) and place the leaf (cut-side down) into slightly moist succulent mix potting soil (even better is very lightly moist sand). Soon, a new rosette will grow from the base of the leaf. As soon as enough roots are present to repot, remove the original leaf cutting and repot the rosette.
It is best to pot at the start of the active growing season, in late winter or early spring.
Pruning
No pruning is necessary except to remove any leaves which have died. This will help to avoid rot and bugs.
Pests and Problems
In the event of an unhealthy plant, the first thing to examine is your watering habits. The most common problem is root rot due to overwatering. If the soil is too wet, don’t hope it will safely dry out so long as you don’t water it for a while. Replace the soil immediately, and remove any damaged roots with sharp sterile scissors or a knife.
One of the most common pests to houseplants is the mealybug, and your Rosularia may fall prey to this pest. However, due to the tightly packed leaves, more often than not the mealybugs will attack the roots. This makes them far less visible than mealybugs which attack leaf-stem junctions. The symptoms of a root mealybug infestation is slowed or stopped growth (though in summer this is a normal sign of dormancy). If this occurs without apparent cause, remove the plant from the pot and examine the roots. A white cottony substance on the roots and in the soil is a sure sign of mealybug infestation. Remove all soil and wash the roots gently. Remove any roots which appear damaged with a sharp sterile knife or scissors. Let them dry very throroughly before replanting.
This plant is best grown outdoors and if you live in an area where winters temperatures rarely go below -10°F (-23°C), this is the best for Rosularia. When potted, these plants are very susceptible to vine weevil. The plant is often used as a bedding or groundcover plant.
Grower’s Tips
Whether grown outdoors or in, these plants are good to forget about. Too much attention by nervous gardeners will kill the plant. When grown outdoors in a wet environment, make sure that the soil is sandy and well-draining. If you aren’t careful, your plant will turn to rotten mush. Mix native soil with sand, if necessary. When grown indoors, a standard commercial cactus and succulent soil mixture works well.
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