文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing a collection of succulents for your indoor garden starts with one you already own.
1. Cut the Heads
Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.
2. Pluck Leaves
Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.
3. Arrange and Water
Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.
4. Tend To The Pups
Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.
1. Cut the Heads
Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.
2. Pluck Leaves
Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.
3. Arrange and Water
Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.
4. Tend To The Pups
Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Sometimes it is very easy to identify the best way to propagate a cactus or succulent, and other times it is not as obvious. However before you start, the first thing to ask yourself is: What kind of plant do I have? If you don’t know the easiest way to learn is to organize the information you know about your plant into categories. How is it shaped? Is it tall and thin, short and round, or does it have many little leaves? How does it grow? Does it grow all by itself, are there many branches, or are there similar tiny plants that poke up out of the soil near it? Does it flower?
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Although many cacti and succulents actually like a tight pot, there will come a time when you need to repot, or maybe you just want to take it out of it’s placates pot and put it in something nicer. But how do you know when a succulent or cacti needs repotting? 
Here are a few signs:
If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes
If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through
When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot
Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.
A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.
How to:
1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot!
2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.
3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.
Here are a few signs:
If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes
If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through
When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot
Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.
A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.
How to:
1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot!
2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.
3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Even if you love that great succulent look, or if drought has led you to these plants, you may already have had trouble growing them. The cause of death is overwatering, after which rot sets in, and the plants literally melt down into a gushy rotten mess. The problem is knowing when they want water and when they don’t.
For you to understand the “when to water” question, you need to know how succulents are different from ordinary plants. The chief characteristic is specialized cells that hold moisture ready rather than deriving new moisture daily from the soil. After they are watered, succulents take up moisture until every succulent cell is fully hydrated. Over time, they utilize this stored moisture, gradually reducing the hydrostatic pressure inside the cells and tissues within the plant. In between water applications, the roots prefer a dry, airy soil, which is why they are typically grown in porous potting soils for cactus and succulents.
Problems arise in wetter or more humid climates when soils don’t dry out in between water applications. They also occur when the drain hole in a pot becomes blocked or if it was too small to begin with. Pots designed for succulents often have numerous holes for this reason.
To know when to water them, you must learn how to tell when hydrostatic pressure is low.
Physical Touch
When your newly watered succulent is fully hydrated, it’s in the “hard body” stage. Squeeze it gently to get a feel for how hard the individual plant becomes, and let this serve as a basis for future comparison. When the internal moisture is used up, the whole plant will gradually soften due to loss of pressure. They actually yield to your touch. Beware of those with only some parts softening, as this can indicate invisible rot is spreading into healthy tissue.
Visual Change
Every succulent plant when fully hydrated will stand up to its full height and form, which combine to create attitude. Many alter their overall attitude when internal pressure drops low enough. For example, Pachypodium’s long thin stalk will literally fold in half, then once watered, it straightens right back up again as hydrostatic pressure returns. Others will show slight wrinkles on the skin caused by reduced interior tissue volume. Drooping leaves, sagging tips or subtle leaning are all changes of attitude caused by low internal moisture.
Watering Method
In my experience, there are a lot of problems caused when succulents are watered from the top down like ordinary potted plants. Water travels down the edges of the soil mass and out the bottom, leaving too little behind for adequate uptake. Succulents often rot right at the soil line due to this kind of watering. For easily handled pots, simply set them in a pan of water so the soil inside can wick up the water through the drain hole. When the moisture wicks up to the surface of the soil, take the pot out of the water and let it drain. This method ensures that the entire soil mass, not just the edges are fully moistened.
Remember that most succulents originate in habitats with occasional heavy rain events followed by extended periods of drought. Fortunately they speak to us in the silent language of touch and appearance, which tell you clearly when they’re dry enough for a drink.
For you to understand the “when to water” question, you need to know how succulents are different from ordinary plants. The chief characteristic is specialized cells that hold moisture ready rather than deriving new moisture daily from the soil. After they are watered, succulents take up moisture until every succulent cell is fully hydrated. Over time, they utilize this stored moisture, gradually reducing the hydrostatic pressure inside the cells and tissues within the plant. In between water applications, the roots prefer a dry, airy soil, which is why they are typically grown in porous potting soils for cactus and succulents.
Problems arise in wetter or more humid climates when soils don’t dry out in between water applications. They also occur when the drain hole in a pot becomes blocked or if it was too small to begin with. Pots designed for succulents often have numerous holes for this reason.
To know when to water them, you must learn how to tell when hydrostatic pressure is low.
Physical Touch
When your newly watered succulent is fully hydrated, it’s in the “hard body” stage. Squeeze it gently to get a feel for how hard the individual plant becomes, and let this serve as a basis for future comparison. When the internal moisture is used up, the whole plant will gradually soften due to loss of pressure. They actually yield to your touch. Beware of those with only some parts softening, as this can indicate invisible rot is spreading into healthy tissue.
Visual Change
Every succulent plant when fully hydrated will stand up to its full height and form, which combine to create attitude. Many alter their overall attitude when internal pressure drops low enough. For example, Pachypodium’s long thin stalk will literally fold in half, then once watered, it straightens right back up again as hydrostatic pressure returns. Others will show slight wrinkles on the skin caused by reduced interior tissue volume. Drooping leaves, sagging tips or subtle leaning are all changes of attitude caused by low internal moisture.
Watering Method
In my experience, there are a lot of problems caused when succulents are watered from the top down like ordinary potted plants. Water travels down the edges of the soil mass and out the bottom, leaving too little behind for adequate uptake. Succulents often rot right at the soil line due to this kind of watering. For easily handled pots, simply set them in a pan of water so the soil inside can wick up the water through the drain hole. When the moisture wicks up to the surface of the soil, take the pot out of the water and let it drain. This method ensures that the entire soil mass, not just the edges are fully moistened.
Remember that most succulents originate in habitats with occasional heavy rain events followed by extended periods of drought. Fortunately they speak to us in the silent language of touch and appearance, which tell you clearly when they’re dry enough for a drink.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Q. I set a small pot of Baby Toes in a sunny window and watered on the same schedule as my other plants. What caused the plant to disintegrate?
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
A. You gave your Baby Toes too much water. This succulent, Fenestraria aurantiaca, which originated in the Cape Province of South Africa, does its growing in winter and can then be watered sparingly. Summer heat turns this plant off and dictates light sprinkling only.
Baby Toes (Fenestraria) belongs to the Aizoaceae, or Carpetweed, family. Ice Plants (Dorotheanthus) and Mesembryanthemum are related, as well as the living-stone Lithops, Tiger Jaws (Faucaria) and a host of other fascinating succulents.
With a name like baby toes, we can take for granted that this plant might be thought cute or adorable. What turns me on is the translucent window set within the pearly whitish top of each gray-green club-shaped leaf. At home in the sand dunes of southwestern Africa, these exist buried to the windowed tops. In cultivation, the crown is set high to avoid rot.
As a growing medium, expert suggests adding extra portions of clean, sharp sand to packaged all-purpose potting mixes, including the so-called soil-less types. Very dilute low nitrogen fertilizer is applied during active growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
For a typical leafy plant, for good growth you keep the soil moist and don’t skimp on the watering. When dealing with succulent plants, different rules apply. Succulent plants store extra water in their leaves, roots or stems to survive long periods of heat and no rainfall. If you are overly generous, they fill up their water storage tissues, become bloated and can actually split open. Soil kept too wet prevents air from reaching the roots, and they die, leading to soft rot.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
Diagnosing Overwatering
The main cause of potted plant death is overwatering, and this is especially true for succulents. You can usually tell an overwatered succulent by its puffy-looking stems or leaves. The plant can also look generally unhealthy. Reduce the watering and see if the plant responds. When the roots die from too-wet soil, the plant can look like it needs water, with shriveled leaves and no new growth. It does need water, but it has no live roots and can’t take water up. Unpot the plant and check for healthy roots. If the roots are alive and the soil is dry, give the plant water and it should respond. If the roots are dead and the soil is wet, your succulent is in trouble.
Treating Overwatered Succulents
If rot organisms have invaded the stem of the succulent plant through the roots and mushy areas are present, you can amputate the rot if it is limited in occurrence. Use a sharp knife dipped in alcohol, and excise the rotten tissue until all you see is clean and white. Put the treated plant where it gets bright light and good air circulation, let the wounds heal, then try re-rooting it in well-draining mix. Discard all infected materials, and disinfect the tools and work area. If the plant is mushy inside, discard it and the soil instead of composting them.
Good Watering Practices
Prevent overwatering by watching your succulents for growth cycles. When succulents are growing, they thrive on thorough watering alternating with partial drying out of the soil. When they are dormant they don’t use much water and the soil needs to be drier. Most succulents grow in spring and summer, but some grow in winter. The top layers of soil will tell you when your succulent needs water. Put your finger in the pot and feel if the soil 1 to 2 inches down in the pot is dry or moist. Don’t water if you feel moisture. When plants are dormant, dry soil should extend at least halfway down the pot. For spiny plants, use a chopstick or a wooden pencil as a probe, and check the tip for moist soil particles. If you are in doubt, don’t water the plant. Succulents can recover from underwatering, but you can’t take extra water out of the plant.
Soil Mix
A well-draining soil mix goes a long way to keep from overwatering succulents. Use a commercial cactus and succulent potting soil mix or make your own, combining equal parts of an organic element such as compost or peat, coarse horticultural-grade sand, and a gritty element such as horticultural pumice, perlite or lava fines. To help the potting mix dry out more quickly, give succulents a pot they can just comfortably fit in plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra space. Repot them yearly as they grow into just the next pot size.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant or Money Plant, is probably the most widely grown succulent houseplant in the world. It is popular because it is very easy to grow and because it is said to bring good fortune and money. Jade Plants do make excellent houseplants, but can also grow up to 10 feet (3 m) high if planted outdoors and can even be pruned into an exotic hedge. Jade Plants have few problems in cultivation, but yellowing leaves are often an early sign that something is wrong.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants that have been just moved from a shady location to direct sunlight are likely to get sunburn. Sunburn on a succulent shows the worst damage at the top and side that is facing the sun. Ridges are more likely to burn than valleys along the plant stem. Sometimes, cacti have wide ribs and little spine protection and then sunburn will occur in between the ribs. A light burn will just be a whitish discoloring on the exposed areas. More severe burns will become a hard brown scar along the plant in whatever areas did not get shaded by spines or other parts of the stem.
Treatment
If you catch a sun burned succulent at the whitish discoloring stage, you can undo the damage by getting it some shade protection. If the plant gets to the brown scaring stage, then the damage is permanent and the plant will have to grow out of it in time. Again, prevention is the best defense with sunburn.
If you purchase a plant that has been sitting inside a store for some time, you will need to gradually move it into full sun. Do this by giving it full sun for a short period of time each day, and then regularly increase the length of time in the full sun over the course of a couple weeks. Keep in mind that some species do not ever want full sun all day. Also note that “full sun” in England is much different than “full sun” in Arizona. The stronger the sun where you live, the more careful you have to be to keep your plants sun burn free.
Treatment
If you catch a sun burned succulent at the whitish discoloring stage, you can undo the damage by getting it some shade protection. If the plant gets to the brown scaring stage, then the damage is permanent and the plant will have to grow out of it in time. Again, prevention is the best defense with sunburn.
If you purchase a plant that has been sitting inside a store for some time, you will need to gradually move it into full sun. Do this by giving it full sun for a short period of time each day, and then regularly increase the length of time in the full sun over the course of a couple weeks. Keep in mind that some species do not ever want full sun all day. Also note that “full sun” in England is much different than “full sun” in Arizona. The stronger the sun where you live, the more careful you have to be to keep your plants sun burn free.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe aristata, also known as Lace Aloe, is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant. It is a stemless, up to 12 inches (30 cm) tall, clump-forming succulent with dense rosettes of stubby, lance-shaped, toothed, white-margined, dark green leaves, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long, with small white spots and soft white spines, particularly beneath. In the fall, produces terminal panicles, up to 20 inches (50 cm) tall, 2 to 6 branched, bearing cylindrical, orange-red flowers, up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) long.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 50°F (10°C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Fertilizing: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Potting and Repotting
Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
General Care
In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners. They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden. This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Propagation
Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose. Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Pests and Problems
Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases. Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer. Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum arachnoideum, sometimes known as Cobweb Houseleek is a species of flowering plant in the family Crassulaceae, native to the Alps, Apennines and Carpathians.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dorstenia are a strange caudex forming genus of plants from north east Africa. They tend to spread out along the base, just above the soil and have some to many branches pointing upward. They usually have attractive green non-succulent leaves of various shapes depending on the species. Some species have sunflower like flowers that spray seeds all over your greenhouse. Small Dorstenia plants pop up in other pots. Dorstenia foetida does this and is the most common species found in the market place. However, most of the other species are extremely rare and somewhat difficult to grow. Dorstenia gigas, from the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea, prefers a mild humid, but not rainy, coastal climate. It will wilt if exposed for extended periods to excessively high or low temperatures. Below is a short list of highly sought after Dorstenia species.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
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