文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ariocarpus is one of the succulent plants in the group commonly referred to as a Living Rock. It can survive without water for up to a year. Even though a plant like that seems foolproof, there are many things you can do to improve its health.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
Growing Conditions
Soil: You should plant your Ariocarpus in soil specifically formulated for cacti. You can buy cactus mix at your local nursery. Do not use generic soil mixes, because they will not provide enough aeration and drainage. Additionally, using a container without a hole, whether it is a pot or a terrarium, is a bad idea for the same reason.
Light: Ariocarpus need a lot of sun. However, in hot, dry areas, they can be damaged by excessive sunlight, so you should either use a shadecloth to limit their sun, or move them out of the sun during the hottest hours of the day. In more temperate areas, direct sunlight is fine.
Temperature: Ariocarpus plants prefer to be kept at room temperature or slightly lower, and in low humidity.
Water: Water your Ariocarpus when it is dry, but then wait until the soil dries out completely to water it again. The amount of time this takes will vary depending on your climate, and the size of your pot if you use one. Remember, when dealing with any kind of cactus, watering too often is much worse than not watering enough. Do not water during winter.
Repotting
As your Ariocarpus outgrows its containers, you will need to transplant it. If you are raising your plant from a seed or cutting, you should wait at least two years before moving it to a larger pot; moving it sooner could be unhealthy. Overall, it is best to wait until your Ariocarpus grows as wide as your pot. Wait for the soil to dry out, then remove your plant as gently as possible and remove all of the soil that you can. Next, cut off the tip of the main root – this will encourage the growth of new, smaller roots that actually take in more nutrients. Putting an open, wet cut into the dirt can attract fungus, so allow it to dry out before planting your Ariocarpus again.
Now it’s time to get your Ariocarpus back into its pot. The easiest way to plant it, rather than struggling to put in the soil while balancing your plant in the center, is to roll up a newspaper into a cylinder and make a temporary pot. You can wrap it around your plant, and fill it with soil, then once you are finished, put the whole thing into your real pot.
Propagation
Ariocarpus can be grown from seeds, transplanted from cuttings, or transplanted with bare roots. Either way, plant your Ariocarpus in the spring. For a cutting, allow the end to dry out before planting it in moist cactus mix. Keep the soil slightly moist and mist the cutting regularly. For a seed, plant it and cover with a layer of sand. Either way, you will want to avoid using too much water on your Ariocarpus. Additionally, you should keep it out of direct sunlight completely until it grows.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ceropegia contains a diverse group of 160 named species native to Africa, southern Asia, and Australia. Some of these perrenial plants have succulent stems, which may be dwarf or vine-like and posess fibrous roots, while others have tubers and relatively thin stems, along which new tubers may form in some species. Species with fleshy thickened roots are the most difficult to grow. The leaves are opposite, but may be vestigal on species with succulent stems.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Native to South Africa, these clump forming succulent plants have similarities with the Aloe plants and they’re related with the same subfamily. There are also subspecies grown.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
What do you do when you have to move your place of residence for a considerable distance to another part of the country or even out of the country and have to move your entire succulent collection with you?
1. Apart from the question of how to move the succulents themselves, if you are moving to another country, it is important that you know there may be plant quarantine and inspection regulations that you should investigate and your Department of Agriculture is the place to direct your inquiries.
2. If the plants are to be inspected, it is wise prior to having that done to thoroughly soak the soil and dip all plants in an insecticide solution. This should be done long enough before moving to allow time for a couple of normal waterings to leach out the excess (and the smell to hopefully disappear) and then time for the soil to dry out thoroughly. In any event, before you attempt to pack your plants for moving, the soil in the pots should have time to thoroughly dry out.
3. If there are no restrictions about moving your succulents in their pots, soil and all, you can wrap each plant, pot and soil in two or more layers of newspaper and pack them, right side up, into cartons provided by the movers. Large plants on the bottom, progressively smaller and lighter ones on top.
4. Even if shipped bareroot (no pots and soil removed), plants need a thorough drying out period before packing, to induce a state of partial dormancy so that they would not etiolate (lengthen and grow out of shape) and otherwise suffer from the time they are confined in wrappings, in a box and in the dark.
5. Most movers charge by weight as well as distance. If you have a very large collection and weight is a factor in the cost of shipping, you are better to move your succulents bare root with all soil removed. However, you would then be faced with the task of reporting the collection on arrival, on top of all the other chores of becoming settled in a new home. Succulents are wonderfully patient though and on arrival, if you can just manage to get them unwrapped and into the air and light, they will wait a few days until you can pot them up.
6. On each box of succulents ready for moving, affix a large piece of white paper and with a heavy hand and a marking pen write PLANTS – PERISHABLE on each box.
7. You must discuss with your mover the importance of packing your plants properly. If you don’t explain that you are moving perishable plants they could be packed on the bottom of the van with all your furniture on top of them!! Sometimes moving vans move the contents of more than one home in their vans. In this case it is all the more important to arrange with your mover not to put your plants under everything else in the truck.
1. Apart from the question of how to move the succulents themselves, if you are moving to another country, it is important that you know there may be plant quarantine and inspection regulations that you should investigate and your Department of Agriculture is the place to direct your inquiries.
2. If the plants are to be inspected, it is wise prior to having that done to thoroughly soak the soil and dip all plants in an insecticide solution. This should be done long enough before moving to allow time for a couple of normal waterings to leach out the excess (and the smell to hopefully disappear) and then time for the soil to dry out thoroughly. In any event, before you attempt to pack your plants for moving, the soil in the pots should have time to thoroughly dry out.
3. If there are no restrictions about moving your succulents in their pots, soil and all, you can wrap each plant, pot and soil in two or more layers of newspaper and pack them, right side up, into cartons provided by the movers. Large plants on the bottom, progressively smaller and lighter ones on top.
4. Even if shipped bareroot (no pots and soil removed), plants need a thorough drying out period before packing, to induce a state of partial dormancy so that they would not etiolate (lengthen and grow out of shape) and otherwise suffer from the time they are confined in wrappings, in a box and in the dark.
5. Most movers charge by weight as well as distance. If you have a very large collection and weight is a factor in the cost of shipping, you are better to move your succulents bare root with all soil removed. However, you would then be faced with the task of reporting the collection on arrival, on top of all the other chores of becoming settled in a new home. Succulents are wonderfully patient though and on arrival, if you can just manage to get them unwrapped and into the air and light, they will wait a few days until you can pot them up.
6. On each box of succulents ready for moving, affix a large piece of white paper and with a heavy hand and a marking pen write PLANTS – PERISHABLE on each box.
7. You must discuss with your mover the importance of packing your plants properly. If you don’t explain that you are moving perishable plants they could be packed on the bottom of the van with all your furniture on top of them!! Sometimes moving vans move the contents of more than one home in their vans. In this case it is all the more important to arrange with your mover not to put your plants under everything else in the truck.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It’s been said that succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful gardeners. They’re great for indoor gardening and require very little maintenance. As nearly indestructible as they can be, however, I’ve still managed to kill every succulent I’ve had. Perhaps it’s the busy lifestyle that causes my negligent gardening care, or the fact that I’ve come to the realization that I actually don’t know the proper way to care for my ounce of greenery. If you’re like me, don’t wallow in distress! Here we’ve compiled some tips for keeping your succulent happy and alive!
First, let’s learn a bit about succulents. Succulents are plants that thrive in hot, dry places. This doesn’t mean, however, that these desert plants don’t love their sunshine. With thick and fleshy organs, they’re able to store water in their leaves, stems or roots – taking advantage of what ever water is available and holding onto it for later use. This makes succulents highly adaptable to arid conditions or any environment too dry for most other plants.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk about light. As mentioned before, desert plants need sunshine too! As much as you’d like your succulent to thrive in the dim corner of your room, they can’t. Giving your indoor succulent as much natural light as possible is imperative. While succulents might prefer the direct sunshine, they can easily adapt to lower light. As long as there’s at least some exposure to light, your succulent should be happy.
In addition to lighting, water is an important element. As a general rule of thumb, succulents don’t like to be watered that often. Typically in the summer, you might water your succulent once a week. In the winter, that might change to once a month. Be weary about overwatering your plant. Succulents don’t like to sit in water. Instead, water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely between watering.
Lastly, think about the environment. Typically, the greener the succulent, the greater the chances they’ll survive indoors. Indoor succulents increase their life expectancy when they’re spaced apart. This allows for maximum sunlight. Succulents that are outdoors, however, can thrive in crowded compositions.
So what are you waiting for? Stop yearning for that greenery, and start planting! You’re already one step closer to mastering the art of urban, indoor gardening.
First, let’s learn a bit about succulents. Succulents are plants that thrive in hot, dry places. This doesn’t mean, however, that these desert plants don’t love their sunshine. With thick and fleshy organs, they’re able to store water in their leaves, stems or roots – taking advantage of what ever water is available and holding onto it for later use. This makes succulents highly adaptable to arid conditions or any environment too dry for most other plants.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk about light. As mentioned before, desert plants need sunshine too! As much as you’d like your succulent to thrive in the dim corner of your room, they can’t. Giving your indoor succulent as much natural light as possible is imperative. While succulents might prefer the direct sunshine, they can easily adapt to lower light. As long as there’s at least some exposure to light, your succulent should be happy.
In addition to lighting, water is an important element. As a general rule of thumb, succulents don’t like to be watered that often. Typically in the summer, you might water your succulent once a week. In the winter, that might change to once a month. Be weary about overwatering your plant. Succulents don’t like to sit in water. Instead, water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely between watering.
Lastly, think about the environment. Typically, the greener the succulent, the greater the chances they’ll survive indoors. Indoor succulents increase their life expectancy when they’re spaced apart. This allows for maximum sunlight. Succulents that are outdoors, however, can thrive in crowded compositions.
So what are you waiting for? Stop yearning for that greenery, and start planting! You’re already one step closer to mastering the art of urban, indoor gardening.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Many people prefer succulent plants for outdoor garden and indoor decoration. For those places which experiences dry and hot weather, these plants can be excellent for growing in those areas. Many people have started growing succulents indoors because they don’t require much sunlight and can grow well indoors.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
Maintenance of these plants are very easy, especially when grown indoors, the succulents in pots won’t be a lot of trouble unlike other indoor plants. The ones that grown in pots will remain in a perfect size because of the smaller place they will be getting from the container, however if grown in flower beds outside, their size will be much more, however they may require more water since they will be under direct sunlight. If you are a person who enjoy care-free living or are busy most of the time and at the same time love having plants indoors then growing succulents in containers is the best option for you. These plants may even produce flowers, which could be your indoor fresh flower bouquet in your house.
Some of the most common succulent houseplants are Burro’s Tail, Christmas Cactus, Crown of Thorns, Jade Plant, Panda Plant, Snake Plant, and many more. What many people don’t know is that how to plant succulents indoors? Planting these amazing plants indoors is very easy. With proper guidance and research you can grow some healthy and beautiful succulents indoors in different containers and pots. You can line them by your stairs indoors, in your kitchen, living room and other places you like. Unlike cacti, other succulents may have a variety of colors and when it is the blooming season; your interior will look pretty with all the flowers around. Here are 10 tips for growing indoor succulents:
1. The best place for keeping your succulent plants indoors is somewhere near the window, especially on the eastern side. The sun rises from the east, in this period the intensity of the rays are less and so will be excellent for the plants. Keep in mind that excessive sunlight can cause yellow spots on your plant which is also known as the sunburns.
2. Many people would think that they have to provide a lot of water to the succulents. Just like any plant, watering succulents should be kept to normal range. Between the watering periods the soil should be dry so that they can grow well, moreover, during the winter season they shouldn’t be watered much (only once a week).
3. Without any doubt, the glass containers or pots look very pretty, however they are not recommended for planting the succulents. This is because the glass container won’t be able to drain water or let it evaporate, however the clay pots or containers can help the moisture to evaporate or excessive water to drain. Succulents don’t like sitting in soggy or damp soil, they just require normal moisture content or water.
4. There is hardly a chance you may get bugs in your small indoor plants, but if by chance you do, avoid using the chemical because they are kept indoors can be hazardous to your health. Make a solution of diluted alcohol, water and dish soap liquid to kill the bugs. Bugs are usually attracted to those succulents whose soil is moist and soggy.
5. Add fertilizer to the indoor succulent plants only once in a year.
6. Many people don’t know how to grow succulents indoors and what type of soil to use. Unlike other plants they don’t use the same soil. The soil needed for the succulents should be well draining and porous, 70% of sand and 30% of soil is the best combination for them.
7. If you have kept the succulent plant in a place which doesn’t receive any sun light, then you might have to move your plants on at least weekly basis outside so that they can get some sunlight to grow better.
8. Avoid using chemical based liquid fertilizers and sprays on the succulent plants kept indoors. Not only it will ruin the plant but also be hazardous for you.
9. You can trim succulent plants only once in a year, if kept in small pot or containers, they might not even need any trimming.
10. Succulent are dessert plants and so can withstand both the hot and cold temperature, you don’t have to worry about the season change.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sedum morganianum also known as Donkey’s Tailis, is a popular and easy-to-grow trailing succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-dropped shaped leaves. It may also be called Burro’s Tail, Lamb’s Tail, or Horse’s Tail. These plants make excellent hanging subjects, or they can be used as trailers in small pots. A mature specimen might have branches up to 2 feet (60 cm) long, with dozens of grey-green, plump leaves lined up like droplets. Flowers readily emerge in late summer in hanging clusters of small blossoms in red, yellow or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you want beautiful yards that can survive extreme drought conditions, it’s time you become familiar with succulent gardening.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants with a highly specialized anatomy that allows them to withstand prolonged drought conditions. They’re the camels of the plant world and, like camels, they store water for later use. If you see a plant with fleshy stems, roots, or leaves, it’s most likely a succulent.
Leaf Succulents
This is probably the succulent most everyone can recognize. Examples include Aloe, Agave, and Jade Plant.
Stem Succulents
The type of succulent stores large amounts of water in their stems, which are usually round, columnar, or sword-like.
Root Succulents
Some succulents store their water underground in large tuberous roots.
How to Care for Succulents
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. This means some succulents like dry heat, and others do best in moist shade of the jungle. It’s a myth that cacti and succulents require little to no care.
Those succulents that prefer warm heat do best outdoors in full sun, while the jungle succulents love life under a shady tree or patio. All succulents and cacti require feeding during the growing season, just like every other plant. They need to be pruned or split when they grow too big. There is a succulent for almost every region of the world, even areas with snow, so don’t worry that there isn’t one you can grow in your area.
How to Display Succulents
Succulents do very well in containers, so if you have limited space or live in an apartment with a small balcony, you’re in luck! Terracotta containers are ideal for tall plants. The weight of the terracotta balances top-heavy plants, which means you won’t come home to a toppled succulent.
Line a woven basket with plastic or an old dish and you have the perfect vessel for spiny and smooth skinned succulents.
Milky white succulents—or plants with white spines—look nice in metal containers. Just make sure the container is made of a metal that won’t corrode. Stainless steel is a good option.
Don’t limit yourself to traditional containers. These plants are perfect to plant in unique found objects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Once you’ve got your plants home, if you’re going to plant them in the garden, you need to do it right. By “right,” it means to create a succulent garden or add them to your garden using the same principles as an English garden.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re on a mission to find the perfect plant to grow in your home or garden, chances are you’ll find it in the succulent section of your favorite plant nursery. It would be hard to fine one. But it won’t be hard to find a succulent you’ll love, no matter where you live.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It is possible to include garden-quality outdoor succulent plants in any landscape, anywhere in the country. The unique but commonly-grown plants, which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons, come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often unique frills and bristles. And many can tolerate hard freezes.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Creating your own succulent garden is a lot of fun and much easier than you might expect. Here’s an easy guide to becoming a green-thumbed succulent expert in the comfort of your own home.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Dischidia is a genus of some 80 species of trailing, twining or scandent, succulent epiphytes found throughout the tropics of Asia (New Guinea, Moluccas, Philippines, India, tropical Australia, Hong Kong, Taiwan) through to the western Pacific.
Dischidia are plants that grow on supports such as tree trunks or branches. Their stems may produce roots along the nodes to absorb nutrients and water and provide additional support for the plant. Dischidia are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow! They tolerate wide variations in temperature and humidity. A very succulent species with grey/yellow/green colored foliage depending on light exposure. The foliage is also somewhat variable depending upon culture. A quick grower for drier areas of the terrarium and excellent in hanging baskets for home and garden!
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Dischidia in medium to bright light to keep the plant happy.
Water: Water Dischidia when the soil surface starts to dry. The plant is fairly drought tolerant, so you don’t need to be alarmed if you forget to water it now and again.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 10 and 11.
Soil: Plant your Dischidia in a loose, well-draining soil designed for epiphytic plants; it is usually composed of coconut husk or shredded bark.
Grower’s Tips
Allow the soil to dry out before you water the plant. They are used to getting moisture only from dew and the air, and cannot tolerate boggy media. When the bark medium is dry to the touch, submerge the container in water until air bubbles are gone.
Dischidia also needs high humidity. Mist the plant every day or place the container on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. The water will evaporate and moisten the air while the pebbles will hold the sensitive roots out of the water.
Dischidia doesn’t really need fertilizer but you should change the planting media every year. If you wish, apply a diluted by half liquid plant food when you water beginning in spring and stopping by September.
Dischidia are plants that grow on supports such as tree trunks or branches. Their stems may produce roots along the nodes to absorb nutrients and water and provide additional support for the plant. Dischidia are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow! They tolerate wide variations in temperature and humidity. A very succulent species with grey/yellow/green colored foliage depending on light exposure. The foliage is also somewhat variable depending upon culture. A quick grower for drier areas of the terrarium and excellent in hanging baskets for home and garden!
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Dischidia in medium to bright light to keep the plant happy.
Water: Water Dischidia when the soil surface starts to dry. The plant is fairly drought tolerant, so you don’t need to be alarmed if you forget to water it now and again.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 10 and 11.
Soil: Plant your Dischidia in a loose, well-draining soil designed for epiphytic plants; it is usually composed of coconut husk or shredded bark.
Grower’s Tips
Allow the soil to dry out before you water the plant. They are used to getting moisture only from dew and the air, and cannot tolerate boggy media. When the bark medium is dry to the touch, submerge the container in water until air bubbles are gone.
Dischidia also needs high humidity. Mist the plant every day or place the container on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. The water will evaporate and moisten the air while the pebbles will hold the sensitive roots out of the water.
Dischidia doesn’t really need fertilizer but you should change the planting media every year. If you wish, apply a diluted by half liquid plant food when you water beginning in spring and stopping by September.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants are grown primarily for the structure of their water-storing stems, leaves or roots, which give lasting interest. Flowers are a wonderful bonus, but often succulents are shy to bloom, especially if they are indoor container plants. Find out what conditions prevail in the plants’ natural habitat to get clues about what growth conditions and seasonal cycles they need. Supplying winter cold, summer heat, fertilizer or more intense light may be all that’s needed for successful flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
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