文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents don’t always fare well when exposed to the hot sun day in and day out. In nature, succulents often grow under or near a shrub or tree where they receive bright light but not constant direct sunlight. Don’t automatically plant your succulent smack-dab in the middle of the garden, where it receives endless hours of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Instead, carefully select its growing location where your succulent will receive enough sunlight, but not too much.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Anacampseros is a genus consisting of a several species of small perennial succulent plants native to South Africa. The botanical name is an ancient one for herbs supposed to restore lost love. All form basal rosettes of smooth or hairy leaves in dense mats and develop a small caudex with age. White filamentous hairs are present along the stems. The wheel-shaped flowers vary from white to purple. The plants are self-fertile and produce seeds in a cup of upright filaments. They are dormant in winter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’, also known as Woolly Rose, is an attractive succulent that forms rosettes of pale-green, fleshy leaves covered with small white hairs. A low-maintenance succulent, the woolly rose can easily thrive if provided with the right conditions. Often grown outside in warm, arid regions, the Woolly Rose is best suited to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b to 11; it should be brought inside during the winter if grown in colder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place the Woolly Rose where it will receive full morning sun or partially shaded afternoon sunlight. If the it is in a pot, place it out on the balcony or porch during warm, sunny weather. Give the Woolly Rose at least a foot (30 cm) of space on each side to prevent it from being crowded by other plants.
Water whenever the soil feels dry during the growing season. Water lightly until the soil is moist but not very wet. Woolly Rose can go for a long period without water once they are established, but they grow better and faster if they receive regular watering during the growing season. Reduce watering during the winter, allowing the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
Fertilize Woolly Rose with liquid 2-7-7 succulent and cactus fertilizer during the growing season, from spring to late summer. Add seven drops of the fertilizer to 1 quart of water and sprinkle around the base of the succulent. Fertilize once every two weeks.
Woolly Rose will drop many of its lower leaves during the winter. Remove shriveled and fallen leaves as they accumulate around the base of the plant. Discard the leaves before they begin to rot. Decaying leaves can spread disease to the rest of the plant if not removed.
Repotting
Repot Woolly Rose plants once roots become visible around drainage holes. Repot into a pot 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider and deeper or out into the garden. Woolly Rose prefer very well-draining soil.
Propagation
Propagate Woolly Rose plants by taking cuttings during the growing season. Cut off a branch and allow it to dry for 24 hours in a warm location with indirect light. Plant the cutting in moist potting soil and place in indirect sunlight or where it will receive direct morning sun. Keep soil moist but not wet. Roots should appear within a few weeks after planting.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Place the Woolly Rose where it will receive full morning sun or partially shaded afternoon sunlight. If the it is in a pot, place it out on the balcony or porch during warm, sunny weather. Give the Woolly Rose at least a foot (30 cm) of space on each side to prevent it from being crowded by other plants.
Water whenever the soil feels dry during the growing season. Water lightly until the soil is moist but not very wet. Woolly Rose can go for a long period without water once they are established, but they grow better and faster if they receive regular watering during the growing season. Reduce watering during the winter, allowing the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
Fertilize Woolly Rose with liquid 2-7-7 succulent and cactus fertilizer during the growing season, from spring to late summer. Add seven drops of the fertilizer to 1 quart of water and sprinkle around the base of the succulent. Fertilize once every two weeks.
Woolly Rose will drop many of its lower leaves during the winter. Remove shriveled and fallen leaves as they accumulate around the base of the plant. Discard the leaves before they begin to rot. Decaying leaves can spread disease to the rest of the plant if not removed.
Repotting
Repot Woolly Rose plants once roots become visible around drainage holes. Repot into a pot 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider and deeper or out into the garden. Woolly Rose prefer very well-draining soil.
Propagation
Propagate Woolly Rose plants by taking cuttings during the growing season. Cut off a branch and allow it to dry for 24 hours in a warm location with indirect light. Plant the cutting in moist potting soil and place in indirect sunlight or where it will receive direct morning sun. Keep soil moist but not wet. Roots should appear within a few weeks after planting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents generally bloom in colder weather. Therefore, they provide color when the rest of your garden has shed its hues. These are the most popular flowering succulents:
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii): The branches of this succulent plant look like thin, spindly cactus. At the ends of the branches are groupings of oval leaves. Red clusters of flowers form within these bunches. Crown of Thorns can bloom throughout the year if it has adequate sunlight. When it’s blooming, water this one more frequently than your other succulents. When there are no flowers visible, let the top layer of soil dry out in between watering. If it gets too dry, it will lose its leaves. However, they will grow back once the plant becomes hydrated again.
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi): Christmas Cactus can work well as a hanging plant. As it grows, the leaves and flowers trail downward. This plant tends to flower in temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). If you keep it outside, it will begin to flower in the winter. The Christmas Cactus doesn’t like a lot of water. It prefers drier soil, especially in the winter.
Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii): The branches of this succulent plant look like thin, spindly cactus. At the ends of the branches are groupings of oval leaves. Red clusters of flowers form within these bunches. Crown of Thorns can bloom throughout the year if it has adequate sunlight. When it’s blooming, water this one more frequently than your other succulents. When there are no flowers visible, let the top layer of soil dry out in between watering. If it gets too dry, it will lose its leaves. However, they will grow back once the plant becomes hydrated again.
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi): Christmas Cactus can work well as a hanging plant. As it grows, the leaves and flowers trail downward. This plant tends to flower in temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius). If you keep it outside, it will begin to flower in the winter. The Christmas Cactus doesn’t like a lot of water. It prefers drier soil, especially in the winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
We have touched on specific ways to care for certain types of succulents in Ultimate Guide to Succulents: Types of Succulents. Some care instructions depend on your zone or whether the plant is outdoors or in a container. General guidelines for succulent care are below.
How Often To Water
Most succulents don’t need a lot of water. The general rule is to let the top half of the soil dry out before you water it again. In the summer, outdoor succulents generally need to be watered once a week. Water container plants two or three times a week.
You’ll usually reduce irrigation in lower temperatures even for indoor houseplants. However, different varieties of succulents require different amounts of water. Check with a local nursery or the company from which you bought the plant for specific watering instructions.
Propagating
Succulents are best grown from offsets or propagated leaves. If your plant sends out “pups”, you can remove those smaller “babies” and replant them.
You can also propagate the plants from leaves. Snap off a few of the lower leaves from the plant. To do this, hold the leaf close to the base. Wiggle and twist it until it separates from the stem. Choose healthy leaves, and propagate a few at a time. Not all of them will propagate. Leave the leaves in a cool, dry place for up to a week. The cut end should end up developing a hard callous that resembles a scab. Once that happens, you can begin to sprout new roots. Fill a shallow container with soil designed for potted succulents. Lay the leaves horizontally on top of the soil. The calloused end shouldn’t touch the soil.
Leave the container in indirect sunlight. Spray the top of the soil with water every day. It should be damp, but not wet. Don’t mist the soil if you live in a humid climate. In about a month, you’ll see roots growing from the cut end of the leaf toward the soil. You can lightly cover the roots with soil to prevent them from drying out. A miniature version of the plant will begin to grow upward from the cut end of the leaf. When that small plant develops its own root system and the original leaf begins to noticeably deteriorate, remove the leaf from the new plant in the same manner that you removed it from the mother plant. Be careful not to disturb the new roots. Replant the new succulent in its own pot. Use a small pot at first, and make sure to use cactus or succulent soil.
Soil
Succulents grow best in soil that drains well. Some types prefer nutrient-dense soil, but most do well as long as the soil isn’t too moist. Most garden stores sell soil that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you’re growing succulents in containers, you can use a mix of equal parts sand, potting soil, and perlite. Outdoor succulents should be fed with a low-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in spring and late summer. Use about half the recommended ratio of fertilizer to water. Only fertilize when the soil is dry.
Sunlight
Nearly all succulents flourish with a lot of light. Your plants should get approximately six hours of direct sunlight every day. Depending on your planting zone and the plant type, you may need to shade your succulents during the hottest part of the day.
Indoor succulents should be placed near a window. However, they shouldn’t get burned by direct sunlight. Succulents are relatively resilient when it comes to their sunlight needs. Less light may cause the colors to become dull. The plants may not bloom without sufficient UV light. However, they will survive in many lighting conditions.
Where to Buy Succulents
Once you start looking for succulents, you’ll notice that they’re sold in many different places. A local supplier may be able to provide you with succulents that are better for your area. Succulent plant groups can provide you with cuttings, succulent seeds or mature plants. Local botanical gardens may also sell succulents.
Many garden shops, from large chain stores to smaller local nurseries, carry succulents. However, it may be difficult to find rare or unusual species here. Succulents sold in garden shops are often already potted.
Some of the most beautiful, unique and vibrant succulents are difficult to find locally. Thank goodness for the internet. Many online vendors will ship these plants directly to you. You can choose the specific variety that you purchase. You can also often get a discount if you buy large sets of mixed varieties. Buying succulents in bulk online may be preferable if you’re trying to fill up a vertical garden or a large space. The plants are often sold in plugs that you can replant in the final destination.
Succulents are not expensive. You can get plants for anywhere from $2 to $10 on average. The price is often determined by the size and rareness of the plant. You can get them even more affordably by trading with other growers, propagating the leaves or replanting offsets.
Succulents have become increasingly more popular due to their ease of maintenance and unique style. There is a wide range of succulents to choose from so you should not have any trouble finding one to match your garden or style. This succulent guide was put together to make sure you have all the information possible that you could need before you get started.
How Often To Water
Most succulents don’t need a lot of water. The general rule is to let the top half of the soil dry out before you water it again. In the summer, outdoor succulents generally need to be watered once a week. Water container plants two or three times a week.
You’ll usually reduce irrigation in lower temperatures even for indoor houseplants. However, different varieties of succulents require different amounts of water. Check with a local nursery or the company from which you bought the plant for specific watering instructions.
Propagating
Succulents are best grown from offsets or propagated leaves. If your plant sends out “pups”, you can remove those smaller “babies” and replant them.
You can also propagate the plants from leaves. Snap off a few of the lower leaves from the plant. To do this, hold the leaf close to the base. Wiggle and twist it until it separates from the stem. Choose healthy leaves, and propagate a few at a time. Not all of them will propagate. Leave the leaves in a cool, dry place for up to a week. The cut end should end up developing a hard callous that resembles a scab. Once that happens, you can begin to sprout new roots. Fill a shallow container with soil designed for potted succulents. Lay the leaves horizontally on top of the soil. The calloused end shouldn’t touch the soil.
Leave the container in indirect sunlight. Spray the top of the soil with water every day. It should be damp, but not wet. Don’t mist the soil if you live in a humid climate. In about a month, you’ll see roots growing from the cut end of the leaf toward the soil. You can lightly cover the roots with soil to prevent them from drying out. A miniature version of the plant will begin to grow upward from the cut end of the leaf. When that small plant develops its own root system and the original leaf begins to noticeably deteriorate, remove the leaf from the new plant in the same manner that you removed it from the mother plant. Be careful not to disturb the new roots. Replant the new succulent in its own pot. Use a small pot at first, and make sure to use cactus or succulent soil.
Soil
Succulents grow best in soil that drains well. Some types prefer nutrient-dense soil, but most do well as long as the soil isn’t too moist. Most garden stores sell soil that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you’re growing succulents in containers, you can use a mix of equal parts sand, potting soil, and perlite. Outdoor succulents should be fed with a low-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in spring and late summer. Use about half the recommended ratio of fertilizer to water. Only fertilize when the soil is dry.
Sunlight
Nearly all succulents flourish with a lot of light. Your plants should get approximately six hours of direct sunlight every day. Depending on your planting zone and the plant type, you may need to shade your succulents during the hottest part of the day.
Indoor succulents should be placed near a window. However, they shouldn’t get burned by direct sunlight. Succulents are relatively resilient when it comes to their sunlight needs. Less light may cause the colors to become dull. The plants may not bloom without sufficient UV light. However, they will survive in many lighting conditions.
Where to Buy Succulents
Once you start looking for succulents, you’ll notice that they’re sold in many different places. A local supplier may be able to provide you with succulents that are better for your area. Succulent plant groups can provide you with cuttings, succulent seeds or mature plants. Local botanical gardens may also sell succulents.
Many garden shops, from large chain stores to smaller local nurseries, carry succulents. However, it may be difficult to find rare or unusual species here. Succulents sold in garden shops are often already potted.
Some of the most beautiful, unique and vibrant succulents are difficult to find locally. Thank goodness for the internet. Many online vendors will ship these plants directly to you. You can choose the specific variety that you purchase. You can also often get a discount if you buy large sets of mixed varieties. Buying succulents in bulk online may be preferable if you’re trying to fill up a vertical garden or a large space. The plants are often sold in plugs that you can replant in the final destination.
Succulents are not expensive. You can get plants for anywhere from $2 to $10 on average. The price is often determined by the size and rareness of the plant. You can get them even more affordably by trading with other growers, propagating the leaves or replanting offsets.
Succulents have become increasingly more popular due to their ease of maintenance and unique style. There is a wide range of succulents to choose from so you should not have any trouble finding one to match your garden or style. This succulent guide was put together to make sure you have all the information possible that you could need before you get started.
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ZENizJEN：2085158243
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Each succulent stands out in its own way — the variegated foliage of Aeonium, the size and grandeur of Agave, the cold-hardiness and resilience of Sempervivum. Out-of-this-world color and year-round beauty belong to Echeveria.
Hailing from semi desert regions of Mexico and of Central and South America, Echeveria thrives in the mild climates of California and the American Southwest. Its colorful, glaucous foliage and year-after-year flowering makes it one of the most popular succulent types. Cold sensitivity may be a concern for many gardeners, but conveniently enough, Echeveria makes a great container plant. Once fall rolls in, just pack up and bring it indoors. Welcome your containers back into the garden in spring.
Where it will grow: Hardy to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius), depending on species (USDA zones 9a to 11b).
Water requirement: Looks best with moderate water.
Light requirement: Full sun, but shelter it from harsh summer sun.
Mature size: Varies with species.
Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant; deer resistant.
Seasonal interest: Evergreen; flowers in summer.
When to plant: Plant cuttings or offsets spring through fall; allow the stem end to become callous.
Distinguishing Traits
Echeveria is rosette forming, with fleshy green leaves in colors ranging from green to gray-green to purple, with colored tips and other quirky accents augmenting its playful demeanor. The color remains strong year-round, and even in the dark grays of winter, your garden will receive a nice pink foliage pick-me-up.
Unlike many succulents, Echeverias are not monocarpic and can flower several times throughout a lifetime. In summer look for a stem of clustered flowers, often in bright pinks and yellows.
How to Use It
Plant Echeveria en masse, as a container specimen or along a rocky bank. Depending on your climate zone and style preference, the options are pretty open.
Echeverias are commonly planted in containers. Their portability makes summer and winter maintenance that much easier.
If summer climates are more extreme, shelter plants from direct sunlight. Likewise, bring your Echeveria indoors if your climate experiences freezing winters. Be sure to provide ample direct light.
Echeverias are also used in living walls for sunny locations.
Planting Notes
Echeverias look healthiest and develop the best year-round color when planted in full, coastal sun.
Some Echeverias develop tall stalks, and eventually you may want to cut and reroot the rosette, much like is done with Aeonium. Leave the stalk and new Echeverias will sprout. Others produce offsets, which can also be used to propagate.
Try to avoid extreme light and temperature swings while providing good air circulation and good light. Give it some water but not too much, and otherwise let it do its thing.
Hailing from semi desert regions of Mexico and of Central and South America, Echeveria thrives in the mild climates of California and the American Southwest. Its colorful, glaucous foliage and year-after-year flowering makes it one of the most popular succulent types. Cold sensitivity may be a concern for many gardeners, but conveniently enough, Echeveria makes a great container plant. Once fall rolls in, just pack up and bring it indoors. Welcome your containers back into the garden in spring.
Where it will grow: Hardy to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius), depending on species (USDA zones 9a to 11b).
Water requirement: Looks best with moderate water.
Light requirement: Full sun, but shelter it from harsh summer sun.
Mature size: Varies with species.
Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant; deer resistant.
Seasonal interest: Evergreen; flowers in summer.
When to plant: Plant cuttings or offsets spring through fall; allow the stem end to become callous.
Distinguishing Traits
Echeveria is rosette forming, with fleshy green leaves in colors ranging from green to gray-green to purple, with colored tips and other quirky accents augmenting its playful demeanor. The color remains strong year-round, and even in the dark grays of winter, your garden will receive a nice pink foliage pick-me-up.
Unlike many succulents, Echeverias are not monocarpic and can flower several times throughout a lifetime. In summer look for a stem of clustered flowers, often in bright pinks and yellows.
How to Use It
Plant Echeveria en masse, as a container specimen or along a rocky bank. Depending on your climate zone and style preference, the options are pretty open.
Echeverias are commonly planted in containers. Their portability makes summer and winter maintenance that much easier.
If summer climates are more extreme, shelter plants from direct sunlight. Likewise, bring your Echeveria indoors if your climate experiences freezing winters. Be sure to provide ample direct light.
Echeverias are also used in living walls for sunny locations.
Planting Notes
Echeverias look healthiest and develop the best year-round color when planted in full, coastal sun.
Some Echeverias develop tall stalks, and eventually you may want to cut and reroot the rosette, much like is done with Aeonium. Leave the stalk and new Echeverias will sprout. Others produce offsets, which can also be used to propagate.
Try to avoid extreme light and temperature swings while providing good air circulation and good light. Give it some water but not too much, and otherwise let it do its thing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Many species of the root maggot exist in home gardens throughout North America. Particularly destructive to early season plantings, they feed underground on succulent roots and attack a large variety of vegetable crops including radish, cabbage, carrot, turnip and onions. Heavily infested roots are often riddles with tunnels and rotted. Affected plants lack vigor, may be stunted or yellowed and often wilt during the heat of the day. In some cases, maggots may even chew through taproots, causing plants to die.
Adults (1/5 inch long) are dark gray flies that look like the common housefly, only smaller. They lay their eggs in the soil at the base of host plants and are very good at detecting newly planted seed beds. Maggots (1/3 – 1/4 inch long) are small, yellowish white, legless larvae with tapered or pointed heads and a rear end that is blunt.
Note: Tunneling and feeding by this pest creates entry points for rot diseases such as black rot.
Life Cycle
Adults emerge in the spring or early summer from overwintering pupal cocoons in the soil. They soon mate and females begin depositing 50-200 small, white eggs in plant stems right at the soil line or in cracks in the soil near plant stems. Eggs hatch in a few days and the larvae burrow down into the soil to feed on small roots, root hairs, and germinating seeds. After feeding for 1-3 weeks, maggots begin to pupate in plant roots or the surrounding soil. There are several generations per year.
Root Maggot Control
Female flies are attracted for egg laying by the moisture emitted from newly planted seed rows. Cover seedbeds with floating row cover immediately after seeds are sown to prevent problems. Be sure the cover extends at least 6 inches on each side of the seed rows.
Apply small amounts of Diatomaceous Earth around seedling stems to deter egg laying by adults.
Yellow Sticky Traps placed around vegetable crops will capture many adult flies before they can mate and lay eggs.
Heavy paper collars or other sturdy material may be placed around the base of transplants to prevent egg laying around stems.
Applying beneficial nematodes in seed furrows or as a top dressing around plants can be effective in getting rid of the larvae.
Using a pyrethrin drench is also an effective option, but should only be considered as a last resort.
Roto-till under crop debris immediately after harvest to destroy overwintering sites.
Adults (1/5 inch long) are dark gray flies that look like the common housefly, only smaller. They lay their eggs in the soil at the base of host plants and are very good at detecting newly planted seed beds. Maggots (1/3 – 1/4 inch long) are small, yellowish white, legless larvae with tapered or pointed heads and a rear end that is blunt.
Note: Tunneling and feeding by this pest creates entry points for rot diseases such as black rot.
Life Cycle
Adults emerge in the spring or early summer from overwintering pupal cocoons in the soil. They soon mate and females begin depositing 50-200 small, white eggs in plant stems right at the soil line or in cracks in the soil near plant stems. Eggs hatch in a few days and the larvae burrow down into the soil to feed on small roots, root hairs, and germinating seeds. After feeding for 1-3 weeks, maggots begin to pupate in plant roots or the surrounding soil. There are several generations per year.
Root Maggot Control
Female flies are attracted for egg laying by the moisture emitted from newly planted seed rows. Cover seedbeds with floating row cover immediately after seeds are sown to prevent problems. Be sure the cover extends at least 6 inches on each side of the seed rows.
Apply small amounts of Diatomaceous Earth around seedling stems to deter egg laying by adults.
Yellow Sticky Traps placed around vegetable crops will capture many adult flies before they can mate and lay eggs.
Heavy paper collars or other sturdy material may be placed around the base of transplants to prevent egg laying around stems.
Applying beneficial nematodes in seed furrows or as a top dressing around plants can be effective in getting rid of the larvae.
Using a pyrethrin drench is also an effective option, but should only be considered as a last resort.
Roto-till under crop debris immediately after harvest to destroy overwintering sites.
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meriunkat
2017年09月13日
Also on your way to Instagram go follow fortheloveofsucculents
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
She has helped me find the names of many of my plants with her beautiful succulent pictures.🌵🌱🌸💚🌈
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meriunkat
2017年09月13日
Dear succulent friends i invite you to follow me at my new Instagram account: cactibrush
to see my drawings🌵🌱🌸🐈🌅🌈❤️💛💚💙💜😄😁
to see my drawings🌵🌱🌸🐈🌅🌈❤️💛💚💙💜😄😁
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meriunkat：@Heidi Liu thanks😄
Heidi Liu：wow, pretty~~
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
A powdery white growth on leaves is the first evidence of this fungal disease, which affects beans, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, lettuce, peas and many other kinds of plants. The fungus can spread to flowers and fruit. New growth and succulent plant tissues are particularly vulnerable to infection. Infected areas eventually turn yellow and dry up; severe infection can weaken or even kill entire plants.
Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew does not require wet foliage for infection to occur, although it does require high humidity. It can spread quickly in warm, dry climates. The fungus overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention and Control
Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties, such as Super Sugar Snap pea.
Water plants as needed to prevent moisture stress.
Keep plants well spaced and weeded to optimize air flow around the leaves.
Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially late in the growing season.
Unlike other fungal diseases, powdery mildew does not require wet foliage for infection to occur, although it does require high humidity. It can spread quickly in warm, dry climates. The fungus overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention and Control
Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties, such as Super Sugar Snap pea.
Water plants as needed to prevent moisture stress.
Keep plants well spaced and weeded to optimize air flow around the leaves.
Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially late in the growing season.
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