文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Common Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), also known as Hens and Chicks, are low growing evergreen succulent plants that look a little like rubbery roses. They are considered alpine or rock garden plants, because of their hardiness and drought resistance. The original rosette, the “Hen” produces tiny rosette offsets that are known as the “Chicks”.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The common name white mold typically refers to Sclerotinia stem rot that mainly affects field crops. It’s a common problem for soybean farmers and can take years to eradicate from farm soils. If you have white mold on your succulent, you’re more likely dealing with powdery mildew — a common houseplant ailment that’s easy to treat. It looks like a white, powdery mold and can live on both stems and fleshy leaves of succulents.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew likes the same type of habitat that succulents like: warm, relatively dry areas. Because succulents and powdery mildew thrive in similar living conditions, succulents are the most infected types of plants, according to the University of Rhode Island GreenShare website. Your infection may just look like the classic white, powdery coating. It can also take on a gray appearance with round yellow, brown or black growths. The mildew can appear in just one spot, but more commonly, it spreads to other leaves, stems and buds of your plant.
Effects
At first, powdery mildew may seem harmless. Your succulent may be able to live with white, moldy-looking disease, and even thrive, for some time. As the infection spreads and gets worse, you may notice deflated, damaged or deformed leaves. Leaves and stems may also turn pale green and then yellow. If your succulent has a severe infection, it may lose leaves, fail to flower or even die. Once one of your plants has powdery mildew, the infection can spread to others.
Treatment
To treat powdery mildew, gently remove any infected leaves and stems that have begun to show signs of damage and then apply a fungicide. Fungicides containing sulfur, neem oil or triforine may be effective at killing powdery mildew on healthy leaves, stems and buds. Also apply the fungicide to nearby plants as a preventative measure. Some gardeners have reported success with baking soda mixed with horticultural oil; however, this treatment hasn’t been widely studied.
Prevention
Separate your infected plants from your healthy plants if possible. Next, work to increase air circulation, recommends Colorado State University Extension, to help slow spore production. Do this by selectively pruning plants, moving them to windier locations or using fans to circulate more air in your home. Spores need some level of humidity, so switching to early morning watering and bottom watering can help slow or prevent powdery mildew spread.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew likes the same type of habitat that succulents like: warm, relatively dry areas. Because succulents and powdery mildew thrive in similar living conditions, succulents are the most infected types of plants, according to the University of Rhode Island GreenShare website. Your infection may just look like the classic white, powdery coating. It can also take on a gray appearance with round yellow, brown or black growths. The mildew can appear in just one spot, but more commonly, it spreads to other leaves, stems and buds of your plant.
Effects
At first, powdery mildew may seem harmless. Your succulent may be able to live with white, moldy-looking disease, and even thrive, for some time. As the infection spreads and gets worse, you may notice deflated, damaged or deformed leaves. Leaves and stems may also turn pale green and then yellow. If your succulent has a severe infection, it may lose leaves, fail to flower or even die. Once one of your plants has powdery mildew, the infection can spread to others.
Treatment
To treat powdery mildew, gently remove any infected leaves and stems that have begun to show signs of damage and then apply a fungicide. Fungicides containing sulfur, neem oil or triforine may be effective at killing powdery mildew on healthy leaves, stems and buds. Also apply the fungicide to nearby plants as a preventative measure. Some gardeners have reported success with baking soda mixed with horticultural oil; however, this treatment hasn’t been widely studied.
Prevention
Separate your infected plants from your healthy plants if possible. Next, work to increase air circulation, recommends Colorado State University Extension, to help slow spore production. Do this by selectively pruning plants, moving them to windier locations or using fans to circulate more air in your home. Spores need some level of humidity, so switching to early morning watering and bottom watering can help slow or prevent powdery mildew spread.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
2
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Agave americana, commonly called the Century Plant, is a succulent desert plant native to Mexico. It can grow outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10. The largest of the Agaves, mature plants range from 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 m) tall with 8- to 12-foot (20 to 30 cm) spreads. Century Plant makes a dramatic accent plant with its blue or blue-gray leaves, black spines and showy, yellow-green flowers. Despite its renowned hardiness, Century Plant can still suffer from a few cultural, disease and pest problems.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata also known as Jade Plant is a succulent often used as a houseplant. This well-behaved plant blends into the landscape in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it thrives on neglect. Few pests or diseases affect Jade Plant, but when white powdery mold appears on its leaves, it is often the result of environmental problems. If you have white mold on your Jade Plant, you’re more likely dealing with powdery mildew. True to their easy-care nature, though, Jade Plants bounce back from powdery mildew once it is properly treated. 
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is caused by several different fungi that grow in a thin layer on plant tissues. In perennial plants such as Jade Plant, the fungal bodies can overwinter in buds, re-emerging when conditions are ideal for their growth. Spores are often distributed by the wind to new, uninfected plants or spread in greenhouses from plant to plant. Temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 and 27 degrees Celsius) are required for germination, along with a relative humidity above 90 percent. Standing water on leaves is not necessary and can actually inhibit spore germination in some cases. Standing water encourages other fungal growth, through, so it should be discouraged.
Damage
Powdery mildew begins as a white powdery coating on the plant’s leaf surfaces, but soon spreads, penetrating plant tissues and sending out spores. Emerging vegetation may be dwarfed or distorted and covered in white mildew. Jade Plants also develop corky brown lesions where powdery mildew is taking hold. If not addressed, this mildew will spread farther, resulting in leaf drop and the eventual death of the Jade Plant.
Cultural Control
Cultural control is effective for powdery mildew. Plant Jade Plants in full sun and trim them to encourage better air circulation. Reduce watering if the plant’s soil is often moist; always allow the soil to dry before watering Jade Plants. Powdery mildew spores can be killed with water, but be careful to wet the plant early in the day so that it can dry completely. Stop misting house Jade Plants, instead water them at the base of the plant since humidity around the plant is what encourages the growth of powdery mildew.
Chemical Control
Several chemicals are available for chronically infested plants or those that are victims of environmental conditions beyond the control of the gardener. Test a safer pesticide such as horticultural or neem oil on a small spot on your Jade Plant before spraying the entire plant thoroughly. If an outside Jade Plant yellows or shows signs of sunburn, utilize a sunshade until signs of powdery mildew are gone to prevent serious damage. Never apply horticultural oils when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is caused by several different fungi that grow in a thin layer on plant tissues. In perennial plants such as Jade Plant, the fungal bodies can overwinter in buds, re-emerging when conditions are ideal for their growth. Spores are often distributed by the wind to new, uninfected plants or spread in greenhouses from plant to plant. Temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 and 27 degrees Celsius) are required for germination, along with a relative humidity above 90 percent. Standing water on leaves is not necessary and can actually inhibit spore germination in some cases. Standing water encourages other fungal growth, through, so it should be discouraged.
Damage
Powdery mildew begins as a white powdery coating on the plant’s leaf surfaces, but soon spreads, penetrating plant tissues and sending out spores. Emerging vegetation may be dwarfed or distorted and covered in white mildew. Jade Plants also develop corky brown lesions where powdery mildew is taking hold. If not addressed, this mildew will spread farther, resulting in leaf drop and the eventual death of the Jade Plant.
Cultural Control
Cultural control is effective for powdery mildew. Plant Jade Plants in full sun and trim them to encourage better air circulation. Reduce watering if the plant’s soil is often moist; always allow the soil to dry before watering Jade Plants. Powdery mildew spores can be killed with water, but be careful to wet the plant early in the day so that it can dry completely. Stop misting house Jade Plants, instead water them at the base of the plant since humidity around the plant is what encourages the growth of powdery mildew.
Chemical Control
Several chemicals are available for chronically infested plants or those that are victims of environmental conditions beyond the control of the gardener. Test a safer pesticide such as horticultural or neem oil on a small spot on your Jade Plant before spraying the entire plant thoroughly. If an outside Jade Plant yellows or shows signs of sunburn, utilize a sunshade until signs of powdery mildew are gone to prevent serious damage. Never apply horticultural oils when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re growing a Desert Rose (Adenium obesum), you probably know that it has an odd look, with a thick, succulent stem called a caudex that can become a bit grotesque as it enlarges. But its name comes from its desert-like native habitat and its colorful, showy flowers that resemble small roses. Usually easy to grow when given the right conditions, leaves on a Desert Rose might turn yellow and start to fall. This can stem from normal changes as it cycles through the year, or it might signal a problem that needs to be addressed.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
A Natural Cycle
A Desert Rose is sensitive to frost but can grow outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 10a through 12. In colder regions, it also does well as a potted plant, either kept indoors as a year-round houseplant or grown outdoors in summer and overwintered indoors.
Whether an outdoor plant in a warm-winter area or a houseplant, Desert Rose usually continues to grow throughout the year, so its leaves should stay green if it’s healthy and problem-free. But in cooler areas where night-time temperatures fall between 39 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit (4 and 8 degrees Celsius) and become 60 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18 degrees Celsius) during the day, a Desert Rose behaves like a deciduous plant, with its leaves gradually turning yellow and dropping. You can prevent a potted plant from losing leaves by moving it indoors before the air cools in the fall. If you grow the plant outdoors year-round and it becomes dormant in fall, it should put out new growth as soon as the air warms in the spring.
Possible Pests
A Desert Rose might attract one of several pests that can affect its leaves, causing them to yellow and eventually dry up. These include mealybugs, fluffy white insects that feed on the foliage. If you see these insects, destroy each one by touching it with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Other possible pests include aphids — small greenish insects — and spider mites, which aren’t readily visible but make web-like coverings on leaves and buds. Both pests feed on plant juices and can cause leaves to yellow, wilt and fall off the plant. For a mild problem, use a strong jet of water to dislodge the pests. If the infestation is severe, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Fungal Problems
If a Desert Rose is grown in overly wet conditions, it might develop fungal stem rot, which usually starts at a stem tip and could also affect leaves on that stem, causing them to turn yellow, then brown. Eventually, the stem darkens or turns yellow and becomes soft, with the problem moving down the stem toward the soil. To save the plant, prune the affected part of the stem back, making the cut behind the soft area and into healthy, firm tissue. Disinfect the knife or shears by wiping the blade with rubbing alcohol between each cut to prevent spreading disease.
0
1
Ashtyn Emily Wright
2017年09月18日
I got given these baby succulent cuttings about a week ago & I have no idea what any of them are but I potted them anyway & they're all growing roots so 🤷🏼♀️ let's see what happens!🤗✨
4
0
cclecombe：I love those little pots for them!!
meriunkat：aww they are so adorable 😆
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Lampranthus is a fairly large genus with 100-150 species coming from South Africa. It provides some of the most spectacular displays of bright flowers from the succulent world, and is widely used as ground cover, either annual or perennial as the climate allows. Several species are used for landscaping and vary from shrubby to trailing, and they also for the flowering period. All the species tend to become woody as they age.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Echeveria elegans, also known as Mexican Snowball is a dense, blue-gray succulent species from Mexico that mounds or spreads slowly in tight colonies. Edges of leaves are slightly pink, producing equally pretty small pink flowers with a yellow tinge. Very handsome and uniform in the garden.
Mexican Snowball is aptly named for two reasons: the succulent rosettes are an icy blue color and this species is the hardiest of the Echeveria, a genus of succulents with their center of diversity in Mexico.
The low-growing clusters are very suitable to fill rock crevices and are occasionally used to cover the roof tiles of a house‐top. A layer of rosettes stapled to the roof overhang is used to hold an inch of peaty soil to the roof. It is also used to form silvery blue small borders and are believed to keep away evil spirits.
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Echeveria elegans in full sun to light shade.
Water: Water moderately when in growth; not at all when dormant.
Temperature: More cold hardy than many other Echeverias, this one makes an excellent rock garden or container plant that needs occasional winter protection below 25°F (-4°C).
Soil: Grow in well-drained soil.
Fertilizer: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer 2 or 3 times in the growing season.
Grower’s Tips
Mexican Snowball is certainly one of the most versatile neat, low-growing ground cover succulents. It is easy to care for and is a good starting point for beginning gardeners. It is considered to be drought tolerant but it does best with occasional watering in a well drained soil. This is typical of many Echeveria. They can be planted in full sun in coastal areas and they like some light shade when planted inland. Elsewhere grow as a houseplant in winter in a cool, bright window and keep dry until spring.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe or by root, stem or leaf cuttings in spring.
Mexican Snowball is aptly named for two reasons: the succulent rosettes are an icy blue color and this species is the hardiest of the Echeveria, a genus of succulents with their center of diversity in Mexico.
The low-growing clusters are very suitable to fill rock crevices and are occasionally used to cover the roof tiles of a house‐top. A layer of rosettes stapled to the roof overhang is used to hold an inch of peaty soil to the roof. It is also used to form silvery blue small borders and are believed to keep away evil spirits.
Growing Conditions
Light: Grow Echeveria elegans in full sun to light shade.
Water: Water moderately when in growth; not at all when dormant.
Temperature: More cold hardy than many other Echeverias, this one makes an excellent rock garden or container plant that needs occasional winter protection below 25°F (-4°C).
Soil: Grow in well-drained soil.
Fertilizer: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer 2 or 3 times in the growing season.
Grower’s Tips
Mexican Snowball is certainly one of the most versatile neat, low-growing ground cover succulents. It is easy to care for and is a good starting point for beginning gardeners. It is considered to be drought tolerant but it does best with occasional watering in a well drained soil. This is typical of many Echeveria. They can be planted in full sun in coastal areas and they like some light shade when planted inland. Elsewhere grow as a houseplant in winter in a cool, bright window and keep dry until spring.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown as soon as ripe or by root, stem or leaf cuttings in spring.
1
1
成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月18日
I new added a "Succulent (ID please!)" in my "garden"
1
0
meriunkat：looks like Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are typically well-suited to indoor living. They can even adapt to less-than-ideal conditions and tolerate a little bit of neglect. Still, no succulent can survive in subpar conditions forever. Eventually inadequate lighting, incorrect watering, disease or pests will take their toll. Once your plants start to look sickly, you need to act quickly to right the problem. Most sickly succulents come back to life with a few simple changes to their environment or care routine.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
2
2
