文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are over 60 different families of plants that encompass succulents. Succulents are such a diverse group that you could probably name a shape or form and find a representative succulent. Greenovia succulent is evocative of roses, with similar layered petals and curved form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis is an example of this form and is in the family Crassulaceae. These tiny, rare plants are hard to find, but if you do get a hold of one, make sure you know how to grow greenovia so your unique discovery will thrive.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
If you are someone who has always been partial to hanging baskets, yet you like cacti and succulent plants, you might be wondering, “What are my choices?” There are plenty of succulent plants that hang down that are perfect for hanging baskets. Some cacti and succulents are best being allowed to grow tall or straight out of a pot. However, there are many types of hanging cactus and unusual succulents that enjoy growing in a hanging pot so they can stream down as each new piece starts.
Types of Hanging Cactus
Here are some popular hanging succulent plants: Burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum) – One of the prettiest sedums, this is one of those unusual succulents that grows in the pot and has pendant stems that tend to cascade down over the edges of the basket. The foliage is short and very light green. The entire plant is covered by bluish-silver blooms. Hanging succulent plants are usually easy to propagate, and the Burro’s tail is no exception. Flowering sansevieria (Sanservieria parva) – This particular hanging cactus starts out as an upright plant that ends up becoming one of those hanging succulent plants with bright green foliage. The foliage is shaped like a lance and can be one and a half feet in length. It also flowers with little pinkish-white blooms. Lamb’s tail – Similar to the Burro’s tail, this is one of the unusual succulents that has larger leaves that aren’t as tender as the Burro’s tail. Further, the leaves are a little stronger held than the Burro’s tail leaves which tend to drop when touched. Ragwort vine (Othonna capensis) – This is one of the creeping hanging succulent plants. It is actually a member of the Daisy family. It has trailing stems that reach many feet in length. This is an excellent example of plants that hang down because it trails nicely. It has yellow blooms that require sunshine in order to open up. This is a beautiful type of hanging cactus. String of hearts (Ceropegia woodii) – Sometimes called the rosary vine, the stems are long and pendulous and this is a great choice of hanging cacti if you are looking for plants that hang down beautifully. It has leaves shaped like hearts and while the upper surface of the leave is a pretty blue green with some silver, underneath the leaves you will find a beautiful purplish gray. Easily propagated, these types of hanging cactus are truly a great addition to any of your hanging plants. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) – This easy-care succulent plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage and looks great in hanging baskets. String of nickels (Dischidia nummularia) – This trailing succulent plant has interesting foliage that screams for attention. It consists of round gray-green leaves which are flat and reminiscent of little coins (about nickel size) hanging from a string. There are many different types of hanging cactus, and they are pretty easy to care for because hanging succulent plants do not require watering as often as other hanging plants. In answer to, “What are my choices,” you can see there are plenty of choices to be had if you want to grow hanging cacti around your home and garden.
Types of Hanging Cactus
Here are some popular hanging succulent plants: Burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum) – One of the prettiest sedums, this is one of those unusual succulents that grows in the pot and has pendant stems that tend to cascade down over the edges of the basket. The foliage is short and very light green. The entire plant is covered by bluish-silver blooms. Hanging succulent plants are usually easy to propagate, and the Burro’s tail is no exception. Flowering sansevieria (Sanservieria parva) – This particular hanging cactus starts out as an upright plant that ends up becoming one of those hanging succulent plants with bright green foliage. The foliage is shaped like a lance and can be one and a half feet in length. It also flowers with little pinkish-white blooms. Lamb’s tail – Similar to the Burro’s tail, this is one of the unusual succulents that has larger leaves that aren’t as tender as the Burro’s tail. Further, the leaves are a little stronger held than the Burro’s tail leaves which tend to drop when touched. Ragwort vine (Othonna capensis) – This is one of the creeping hanging succulent plants. It is actually a member of the Daisy family. It has trailing stems that reach many feet in length. This is an excellent example of plants that hang down because it trails nicely. It has yellow blooms that require sunshine in order to open up. This is a beautiful type of hanging cactus. String of hearts (Ceropegia woodii) – Sometimes called the rosary vine, the stems are long and pendulous and this is a great choice of hanging cacti if you are looking for plants that hang down beautifully. It has leaves shaped like hearts and while the upper surface of the leave is a pretty blue green with some silver, underneath the leaves you will find a beautiful purplish gray. Easily propagated, these types of hanging cactus are truly a great addition to any of your hanging plants. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) – This easy-care succulent plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage and looks great in hanging baskets. String of nickels (Dischidia nummularia) – This trailing succulent plant has interesting foliage that screams for attention. It consists of round gray-green leaves which are flat and reminiscent of little coins (about nickel size) hanging from a string. There are many different types of hanging cactus, and they are pretty easy to care for because hanging succulent plants do not require watering as often as other hanging plants. In answer to, “What are my choices,” you can see there are plenty of choices to be had if you want to grow hanging cacti around your home and garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Growing cacti and other succulent plants can be an addictive pastime! Cacti are collectible and are ideal for nice, sunny windowsills as are many of their succulent counterparts. Read on to learn more about growing cactus and succulent plants indoors.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are quite a few ways to take cuttings off succulent plants, so it’s no wonder why it may seem intimidating. Read here to get information on cacti and succulent propagation.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
Propagating Cacti and Succulents
There are several ways to take cuttings off of succulent plants. Sometimes you’ll root the whole leaf. Sometimes you can cut a leaf into sections. Short stubs are taken from cacti. If you are detaching leaves, you have to be sure not to ruin the mother plant’s shape. If you take a few from the back of the plant, it’s probably not going to be a problem.
Propagating Succulent Leaf Pieces
Larger plants, like the snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), can be increased by cutting stems and leaves into pieces. All you would do is be sure to water the plant for a few days before you plan to take the cuttings. If you don’t, the leaves will be flaccid, and flaccid leaves do not root readily. Use a sharp knife and sever just one or two leaves at the base of each leaf. Make sure you take them from different areas of the plant. If you take them all from one side, you will ruin the shape of the plant. Take one of the severed leaves and place it on a flat surface. Using your sharp knife, cut the leaf into pieces about 5 cm deep. Make sure you cut cleanly because if you tear the leaf instead, it won’t root and will die off. Take a shallow, but wide, pot and fill it with equal parts of moist peat and sand, then rirm the compost mixture. Take your knife and form a slit and push a cutting about 2 cm down into the slit. You want to make sure the cutting is the right way up. Lightly water the compost, and then place the pot in gentle warmth.
Rooting Succulent Leaves
Many succulents, like October daphne (Sedum sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’), have small, circular, flat leaves. You can increase these easily in spring and early summer. Just press leaves into the surface of a pot filled with equal parts of sand and moist peat. Make sure the pot is well draining. It’s best to cut off a few stems rather than taking off a few leaves from several shoots. Just snap the leaves off, without squashing the stems. Lay them out and let them dry for a couple of days. Then take the leaves and press each one on the compost’s surface. After you have them all laid out, lightly water the leaves. Take the pot and put it in gentle warmth and light shade. Some succulents like the jade plant (Crassula ovata) can be taken off and inserted vertically into a pot with well-drained compost in spring and early summer. It’s not necessary to have high temperatures. Just select a healthy, well-watered plant and gently bend the leaves down. Doing so causes them to snap off close to the main stem. This is what you want. Lay the leaves out and let them dry for a couple of days. Fill a clean pot with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to about 1 cm below the rim. Take a pencil and form a hole about 20 mm deep and insert your cutting into it. Firm the compost around it to steady the “plant.” Water this pot and place it in light shade and gentle warmth.
Taking Cacti Cuttings
Most cacti have spines and are known quite well by these. This should never stop you from taking cuttings from them. If necessary, wear gloves while handling the cacti. Cacti that grow a mass of small stems from around the base are the easiest to increase. Mammillarias and Echinopsis spp. can be increased this way. Using a sharp knife, take off a well-formed young stem from around the outside of the clump of cacti. Sever the stems at the base so you don’t cause unsightly short stubs to be left on the mother plant. You always want to keep the attractiveness of the mother plant steady. Also, don’t take the stems all from the same position. This will also spoil the mother plant’s appearance. Lay the cuttings out and leave them alone for a couple of days so their ends can dry. Then insert the cuttings into the cactus compost. This will let them root a lot faster than if you insert them into the compost immediately after you cut them. Take a small pot and fill it with equal parts of sand and moist peat and firm it to 1 cm below the rim. You will want to sprinkle a thin layer of sand on the surface and make a hole about 2.5 cm deep. Insert the cutting into the hole. Firm your compost around the cutting and place it in gentle warmth and light after lightly watering it. Rooting should happen in a few weeks if you’ve done this in spring or early summer when the plant is most likely to root. So don’t be afraid of succulents or cacti. They are plants just like the rest of them and just have a different way of being handled. The process of increasing these plants is just as simple as with other plants, so you should have no trouble at all increasing your beautiful collection of these wonderfully different plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulent plants are not only easy to care for but provide a wealth of intriguing shapes and stunning colors. What’s even better is the fact that these exotic showstoppers have the unique ability to grow in some of the most unlikely of places. And I bet you thought they were just desert plants. While these exotic plants are capable of storing water, which makes them ideal for growing in arid conditions, succulents also make wonderful houseplants, adding unique interest to any style.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Succulents are easy to grow, attractive and aromatic. Such is the case with Cuban oregano. What is Cuban oregano? It is a succulent in the Lamiaceae family, also known as Spanish thyme, Indian borage and Mexican mint. It is not a true oregano in the family, Origanum, but has a scent characteristic of the true oreganos. There are numerous culinary and traditional Cuban oregano uses. Once you know how to grow Cuban oregano, try this lively little plant in containers, a well-drained, partially sunny area of the garden or in trailing baskets.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Sweetheart hoya plant, also known as Valentine plant or sweetheart wax plant, is a type of Hoya appropriately named for its thick, succulent, heart-shaped leaves. Like other Hoya varieties, sweetheart hoya plant is a stunning, low-maintenance indoor plant. Read on for additional wax plant info.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
Hoya Wax Plant Info
Native to Southeast Asia, sweetheart hoya (Hoya kerrii) is often a quirky Valentine’s Day gift with a single 5-inch leaf planted upright in a small pot. Although the plant is relatively slow-growing, it appreciates a hanging basket, where it eventually becomes a bushy mass of green hearts. Mature plants can reach lengths of up to 13 feet. During the summer, clusters of white, burgundy-centered blooms provide bold contrast to the deep green or variegated leaves. One mature plant can display up to 25 blooms.
How to Grow a Sweetheart Wax Plant
Sweetheart hoya care isn’t complicated or involved, but the plant is somewhat particular about its growing conditions. This Valentine hoya tolerates relatively low light, but not full shade. However, the plant performs best and is more likely to bloom in bright or indirect sunlight. Room temperatures should be maintained between 60 and 80 F. or 15 and 26 C. With its fleshy, succulent leaves, sweetheart hoya is relatively drought-tolerant and can get by with as little as one or two waterings per month. Water deeply when the soil is slightly dry to the touch, then let the pot drain thoroughly.
Although the soil should never become bone dry, wet, soggy soil can result in deadly rot. Be sure sweetheart hoya is planted in a pot with a drainage hole. Sweetheart hoya is a light feeder and requires little fertilizer. A light solution of balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at a rate of ¼ teaspoon in a gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant once a month during the growing season and discontinue feeding in winter. If a mature plant doesn’t bloom, try exposing the plant to brighter light or cooler nighttime temperatures.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulent garden design is appropriate for warm, temperate and even cold season locations. In cold climates, it is not always possible to have a succulent garden outside, but you can grow them indoors in containers. Learn a little about how to plan an outdoor succulent garden and bring some fun shapes and textures to your landscape.
Succulent Garden Design
Succulents are generally drought tolerant plants that have thick leaves where they store moisture. Although succulent plants are very tolerant of dry conditions, they do need water, especially during the growing season.
Succulent garden design should consider the location, soil type, configuration, moisture level, and the types of plants. Some succulents are more drought tolerant than others. Do a little research on the wide variety of succulent shapes and sizes before starting a succulent garden outside. For instance, cacti are succulents and hold water in their stems and pads. Other types of succulents are not spiny but have swollen leaves with a myriad of growth habits. There are spreading or drooping types, such as burro’s tail; spiky, wide plants like agave; or tall, columned varieties such as old man’s cactus. Plan the design with enough space for the plants to fill in as they grow.
Succulent Outdoor Plants
Growing a succulent garden outside starts with plant choices. If you are a novice, begin with plants that are easy and foolproof. Sedum and sempervivum are easy to grow and adaptable to bright, sunny locations or even slightly dappled areas. Whatever types of plants you choose, succulents need well-drained soil. They can thrive in cracks and crevasses, rockeries and sandy or gritty soils. Succulents in cool season areas will do best in containers that are brought indoors for the winter. Try some kalanchoe, aloe, echeveria and aeonium. Have fun with the unique sizes, shapes and textures of these plants. Use succulent outdoor plants as part of a xeriscape area of the garden, to conserve water and provide interest and color.
How to Plan an Outdoor Succulent Garden
When you’ve chosen your plants and are ready for planting, you will need to know how to plan an outdoor succulent garden. Choose a sunny location and plot the space you want to fill. Check the soil conditions and drainage by digging a hole at least 1 foot deep and filling it with water. If the water drains within a half hour, the soil is sufficiently porous. If not, simply mix in 3 inches of sand or other gritty material to increase the texture and drainage. Use taller specimens at the center of the area and spreading species at the edges or dotted among the larger plants as ground cover. Top the area with a layer of pebbles or small rocks to act as mulch. This will help prevent weeds and conserves moisture while allowing evaporation of excess water.
Care of Succulent Garden Plants
Succulent plants tolerate periods of dryness, but should receive regular water during the growing season. When soil is dry a couple of inches down, water deeply and then let the soil dry out again between waterings. The most common problem with succulents is rot. Keeping the stems out of the soil and providing drying periods between irrigation will help prevent this. Also, water from the base of the plant to keep leaves dry. Watch for insect pests and combat them with sprays of water and horticultural soap spray. Remove dead stems and offsets during the care of succulent garden plants. Offsets are easy to start as a completely new plant. Put them in a well-drained potting mix and care for them until roots are full and healthy, then plant them in a new area of the garden.
Succulent Garden Design
Succulents are generally drought tolerant plants that have thick leaves where they store moisture. Although succulent plants are very tolerant of dry conditions, they do need water, especially during the growing season.
Succulent garden design should consider the location, soil type, configuration, moisture level, and the types of plants. Some succulents are more drought tolerant than others. Do a little research on the wide variety of succulent shapes and sizes before starting a succulent garden outside. For instance, cacti are succulents and hold water in their stems and pads. Other types of succulents are not spiny but have swollen leaves with a myriad of growth habits. There are spreading or drooping types, such as burro’s tail; spiky, wide plants like agave; or tall, columned varieties such as old man’s cactus. Plan the design with enough space for the plants to fill in as they grow.
Succulent Outdoor Plants
Growing a succulent garden outside starts with plant choices. If you are a novice, begin with plants that are easy and foolproof. Sedum and sempervivum are easy to grow and adaptable to bright, sunny locations or even slightly dappled areas. Whatever types of plants you choose, succulents need well-drained soil. They can thrive in cracks and crevasses, rockeries and sandy or gritty soils. Succulents in cool season areas will do best in containers that are brought indoors for the winter. Try some kalanchoe, aloe, echeveria and aeonium. Have fun with the unique sizes, shapes and textures of these plants. Use succulent outdoor plants as part of a xeriscape area of the garden, to conserve water and provide interest and color.
How to Plan an Outdoor Succulent Garden
When you’ve chosen your plants and are ready for planting, you will need to know how to plan an outdoor succulent garden. Choose a sunny location and plot the space you want to fill. Check the soil conditions and drainage by digging a hole at least 1 foot deep and filling it with water. If the water drains within a half hour, the soil is sufficiently porous. If not, simply mix in 3 inches of sand or other gritty material to increase the texture and drainage. Use taller specimens at the center of the area and spreading species at the edges or dotted among the larger plants as ground cover. Top the area with a layer of pebbles or small rocks to act as mulch. This will help prevent weeds and conserves moisture while allowing evaporation of excess water.
Care of Succulent Garden Plants
Succulent plants tolerate periods of dryness, but should receive regular water during the growing season. When soil is dry a couple of inches down, water deeply and then let the soil dry out again between waterings. The most common problem with succulents is rot. Keeping the stems out of the soil and providing drying periods between irrigation will help prevent this. Also, water from the base of the plant to keep leaves dry. Watch for insect pests and combat them with sprays of water and horticultural soap spray. Remove dead stems and offsets during the care of succulent garden plants. Offsets are easy to start as a completely new plant. Put them in a well-drained potting mix and care for them until roots are full and healthy, then plant them in a new area of the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulents, like all plants, are susceptible to pest infestations. Sometimes, the pests are readily visible and at other times difficult to see, but their damage is obvious. An example of this is succulent mite damage. Mites that affect succulents, of which there are many, are difficult to see with the naked eye but their damage is there for the world to see. Read on to find out about mites on succulent plants and succulent mite control.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
Mites That Affect Succulents
Due to the dizzying array of succulents to choose from, many people are so fascinated by them they become virtual succulent hoarders. Collecting succulents is a great hobby but the one downside may be if the collection becomes pest infested. Pest and diseases especially afflict large collections and can be difficult to control in its entirety. Mealybugs, scale, whitefly, various weevils and a few varieties of mitesare examples of pests that attack succulents. Most pests can be controlled with systemic or contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and sometimes natural predators. How about mites?
Succulent Mite Control
Spider mites damage both cacti and succulents by sucking the plant’s juices. The first sign you have spider mites on succulent plants will be webbing and small brown spots on young growth. These tiny “insects” are not really insects at all but are more closely related to spiders. They look like dust when viewed by the naked eye. Red spider mites are actually reddish-brown in color and thrive in hot, dry conditions. They dislike humidity, so misting and overhead watering can reduce their incidence. These red spider mites should not be confused with harmless, much larger red mite, which is a harmless predator mite. To thoroughly rid the plant of these mites, use a miticideaccording to the manufacturer’s directions. There is also a predator that can be used as a biological control, Phytoseiulus persimilis. This predator requires temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.) and it’s also difficult to maintain a balance between predator and prey. Spider mites are not the only mites responsible for afflicting succulents. Mites that feed on aloe also attack other species such as Haworthia and Gasteri, and are called eriophyid mites. Unlike spider mites, which have four sets of legs, these mites have two sets of legs. As this mite feeds, it injects a chemical into the tissue that results in galling or other abnormal growth. In the case of aloe plants, aloe succulent mite damage is irreversible and the plant must be discarded. Place infected plants in a plastic bag or incinerate to prevent contamination of other plants. If infestation is minimal, treat the plant with a miticide according to manufacturer’s instructions. Frost hardy aloes can be exposed to freezing temperatures, which will kill the mites. Another mite, the two-spotted mite, feeds primarily on yucca. Under a microscope, this mite is pink, yellow-green or red with two dark spots on its body. These mites have eight legs but no wings or antennae. Tell-tale signs of the presence of the two-spotted mite are tan or gray stippling of foliage. As the infestation progresses, again, a fine webbing can be seen on the undersides of leaves. If the infestation is severe, the plant will die. Insecticidal soap and keeping the plant area high in humidity by misting will retard the mite population. Also, chemical control with the aid of products known as acaricides will help. To really get a handle on the mites, inspect the succulents frequently so you can take action before the infestation gets out of hand. Keep the plants healthy with the proper amount of water, fertilizer and light. Remove any dead or dying succulent parts and dispose of truly ailing plants immediately.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
A terrarium is a rather old-fashioned but charming way to make a mini garden in a glass container. The effect produced is rather like a tiny forest residing in your home. It is also a fun project that is great for kids and adults. Growing succulent plants in terrariums provides the plants with an easy care situation in which they will thrive. Because succulents do not like wet environments, a few tips and adjustments to the traditional terrarium are required. Read on to find out how to make a succulent terrarium that will keep the little plants happy and healthy.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia is a large group of succulent and woody plants. Euphorbia obesa, also called baseball plant, forms a ball-like segmented shape that is adapted to hot, arid climates. Euphorbia baseball plant makes an excellent houseplant and is low maintenance. Enjoy this information on how to grow baseball euphorbia.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
Euphorbia Baseball Plant Info
There is a wide array of Euphorbia species. They range from cactus-like spiny plants to thickly padded succulents and even shrubby, woody plants with veined leaves. Baseball plant was first documented in 1897, but by 1915 Euphorbia obesa was considered endangered due to its popularity, which led collectors to pirate the natural population. This rapid decline in the population led to an embargo on plant material and an emphasis on seed collection. Today, it is a widely grown plant and easy to find in many garden centers.
Euphorbia plants are classified by their white milky latex sap and the cyanthium. This is the inflorescence composed of a single female flower surrounded by many male flowers. Euphorbia do not form proper flowers but develop inflorescences. They do not grow petals but instead have colored bracts which are modified leaves. In the baseball plant, the inflorescence or flower leaves behind a scar which is successively displayed on the aging body of the plant. The scarring is similar to the stitching on a baseball. Euphorbia baseball plant is also called sea urchin plant, partially due to the shape of the body, which resembles the creature, but also due to the native habit of growing on rocks and cliffs. Specific baseball plant info indicates it is a segmented spherical plant with a rather bloated body that stores water. The round plant is grayish green and grows around 8 inches tall.
How to Grow Baseball Euphorbia
Euphorbia obesa care is minimal, making it the perfect houseplant for someone who travels a lot. It simply requires heat, light, a well draining soil, container, and minimal water. It makes a perfect container plant by itself or surrounded by other succulents. A good cactus mix or potting soil amended with grit make excellent mediums for growing a baseball plant. Add a little gravel to the soil and use an unglazed pot which will promote evaporation of any excess water. Once you have the plant in a location in your home, avoid moving it which stresses out the plant and can minimize its health. Overwatering is the most common cause of malaise in baseball plant. It is used to only 12 inches of rain per year, so a good deep watering once every few months in winter and once per month in the growing season is more than sufficient. Fertilizing is not necessary as part of good Euphorbia baseball care, but you can give the plant cactus food in spring at the onset of growth if you wish.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dragon bone cactus is technically a succulent not a cactus. It is in the family Euphorbia or Spurge, a broad group of plants that include poinsettias and cassava. The cactus also has several other names, among them candelabra cactus, false cactus, elkhorn and mottled spurge. In northern zones, caring for dragon bone plants will require you to grow it in a greenhouse, solarium or in a sunny room. Dragon bone euphorbia is an elegant and structurally unique plant that can also live on the patio in summer as long as it is brought indoors before cool temperatures arrive.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulent plants are easy to love. Their ease of care, sunny dispositions and moderate growth habits make them perfect for warm seasons outdoors or well lit interiors. The Echeveria succulent plant is just such a specimen, thriving on brief periods of neglect and low water and nutrients. Echeveria care is practically foolproof and grows well in either containers or toasty garden beds. The many varieties and colors of Echeveria plants provide wonderful tones and texture for mixed beds and pots.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
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