求助
AHuJeLe
2017年08月14日
Bought this succulent few months ago. Tried to find out it's exact name, but couldn't as it was very small and too hard to identify. Now when it has released blooms, I'm even more curious to find it's name. Does anyone know it's exact name? Would really appreciate it. :)
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
If you have a sunny spot in the garden that tends to stay dry during the summer, a cheerful little plant called moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora) could be the perfect choice to brighten this area. A semi-succulent, creeping plant, it's named for the roselike appearance of its flowers, that come in pink, red, yellow, orange or white. A tough, easy-to-grow plant, moss rose is an annual, but it self-seeds readily and can keep an area filled with colorful flowers year after year.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
New Seeds From Old Flowers
Moss rose comes in many different cultivars, some with single flowers and others with extra-showy, double flowers. Flowers on all types grow on the tips on the plant's stems, opening fully in the sun and closing overnight. The flowers also stay closed on overcast days. Grow the plant in a spot with excellent drainage that gets full sun all day to get the most flowers, which will open nonstop from midsummer into fall.
Although moss rose doesn't live through winter and is easily damaged by cold weather, you can promote a self-renewing plot by leaving the flowers on the plant. They will eventually wilt and, over time, petals will fall. Next, the remaining central part of the old flower develops tiny black seeds that drop to the ground when mature.
Seedlings the Following Spring
If you want to see new moss rose seedlings in the same spot next spring, avoid raking or disturbing the soil under the plants, because the seeds need light to germinate. When fall arrives and the plants begin to die back, cut them off carefully just above the soil line to keep the area tidy, but don't pull the plants out by the roots to avoid burying seeds that have dropped. If you live where winter temperatures fall below freezing, the remaining plant parts will die back and dry up before spring arrives.
When weather warms the following spring, keep the soil in the self-seeded area moist. Once moss rose seedlings appear, you can allow them to grow in place or carefully dig them up, adding them to containers or re-locating them in the garden.
Flowers Until Fall
Like many flowering plants, moss rose slows flower production once it produces mature seeds. Eventually, flowering stops and the plant starts to fade near the end of the season. But removing spent flowers as they appear -- called deadheading -- helps keep new flowers coming throughout the season and promotes strong new growth.
You can have the best of both worlds by removing all but a few old flowers from the plant, letting the remaining blooms fade naturally and set seeds. In response, the plant continues making new flower buds, keeping new flowers coming -- but fewer of them -- later in the season. Use sharp shears when deadheading to cut off stem tips that bear flowers, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant diseases.
Other Care Issues
Although the moss rose is drought-tolerant, it flowers best when it gets regular water, with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain, being best. A naturally creeping plant, it can spread to cover an area up to 2 feet wide, developing into a flower-covered, 6-inch-tall mound.
This plant is generally free of pests and diseases, although it might develop root rot if grown in an overly wet area. An affected plant has soft, brown roots and tends to die back, with damage starting at its base. It's best to dig up and throw out any affected plant and re-plant new seedlings in a drier area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The indoor panda plant is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Kalanchoe panda plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the décor. Keep reading to answer the question of what is Kalanchoe tormentosa and how to grow a panda plant indoors.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
What is a paddle plant? Also known as flapjack paddle plant (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), this succulent kalanchoe plant has with thick, rounded, paddle-shaped leaves. The plant is also known as red pancake because the leaves frequently take on a reddish or deep pink tint during the winter. Read on for tips on growing paddle plants.
How to Grow a Flapjack Paddle Plant
Growing paddle plants outdoors is possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and above, but gardeners in cooler climates can grow kalanchoe as an indoor plant.
Water kalanchoe only when the soil is dry. When watering indoor plants, allow the pot to drain completely before replacing the plant on its drainage saucer. Never overwater, as kalanchoe, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy soil. Water kalanchoe sparingly during the winter months. Outdoors, kalanchoe plants do well in full sunlight or light shade. Indoor plants perform best in bright light. However, avoid direct light during the summer months, as too much intense light may scorch the plant. Paddle plant prefers temperatures between 60 and 85 F. (16-29 C.). Avoid temperatures below 60 F. (16 C).
Outdoor plants require well-drained soil to prevent rotting. Indoor plants need a well-drained potting mix. A handful of sand is helpful, or you can use a potting mix formulated specifically for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, create your own mix by combining peat moss, compost and coarse sand. Fertilize paddle plant lightly during the growing season. Withhold fertilizer during fall and watering for both indoor and outdoor plants.
Paddle Plant Propagation
The easiest way to propagate kalanchoe is to plant leaves or leaf cuttings in spring or summer. Set leaves or cuttings aside for a couple of days, or until the cut end develops a callus. You can also remove offsets that grow on the side of a mature paddle plant. Plant the leaves or offsets in a small pot filled with lightly moistened potting mix for cacti and succulents. Keep the potting mix evenly and lightly moist but never soggy. Bright, indirect sunlight is best for paddle plant propagation. Once the plant is established and shows healthy new growth, you can treat it as a mature plant.
How to Grow a Flapjack Paddle Plant
Growing paddle plants outdoors is possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and above, but gardeners in cooler climates can grow kalanchoe as an indoor plant.
Water kalanchoe only when the soil is dry. When watering indoor plants, allow the pot to drain completely before replacing the plant on its drainage saucer. Never overwater, as kalanchoe, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy soil. Water kalanchoe sparingly during the winter months. Outdoors, kalanchoe plants do well in full sunlight or light shade. Indoor plants perform best in bright light. However, avoid direct light during the summer months, as too much intense light may scorch the plant. Paddle plant prefers temperatures between 60 and 85 F. (16-29 C.). Avoid temperatures below 60 F. (16 C).
Outdoor plants require well-drained soil to prevent rotting. Indoor plants need a well-drained potting mix. A handful of sand is helpful, or you can use a potting mix formulated specifically for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, create your own mix by combining peat moss, compost and coarse sand. Fertilize paddle plant lightly during the growing season. Withhold fertilizer during fall and watering for both indoor and outdoor plants.
Paddle Plant Propagation
The easiest way to propagate kalanchoe is to plant leaves or leaf cuttings in spring or summer. Set leaves or cuttings aside for a couple of days, or until the cut end develops a callus. You can also remove offsets that grow on the side of a mature paddle plant. Plant the leaves or offsets in a small pot filled with lightly moistened potting mix for cacti and succulents. Keep the potting mix evenly and lightly moist but never soggy. Bright, indirect sunlight is best for paddle plant propagation. Once the plant is established and shows healthy new growth, you can treat it as a mature plant.
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求助
Kiley_Cruse
2017年08月12日
Can anyone tell me what the name of this succulent is and why mine is wilting? and turning that pink color?
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meriunkat：it looks badly sunburned is it too often in direct sunlight?
meriunkat：they tend to turn pink in the middle and maybe too much water and sun?
meriunkat：hmm looks like some kind of Echeveria.. maybe Perle Von Nurnberg
成长记
stureburk
2017年08月11日
I new added a "Unknown succulent" in my "garden"
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Ueca：I have one and it's really heavy for its size.
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fun, tough little plants that have become popular as houseplants. The Dyckia group of bromeliads primarily come from Brazil. What are Dyckia plants? These are semi-succulent rosettes that may produce some astounding flower spikes. Some of the varieties are terrestrial while others are found on rocks in their native range. They have remarkable drought tolerance for short periods of time and can even withstand a brief freeze. All in all, growing these plants is easy and rewarding, but a little Dyckia plant info should put you on the path to ensured success.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Whether you transplant small 'Black' hens and chicks (Sempervivum 'Black') -- hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9 -- or a larger succulent such as a prickly pear cactus (Opuntia spp.) -- hardy from USDA zones 3b through 11, the keys to success lie in proper soil with good drainage. Therefore, you'll probably spend more time preparing the new growing area than you will transplanting your succulents. Also check each succulent's light requirements before you transplant because a succulent variety may need full sun or shade.
Cactus
credit: fotokate/iStock/Getty Images
Some succulents spread, and their growth habits indicate how much space they need.
Check Drainage
Many types of succulents exist, and what makes a plant a succulent is its ability to draw and store water in its tissues. Succulents also don't tolerate having wet roots, however. So the transplant location you choose for them should have good drainage. Avoid transplanting succulents to low spots.
Check a site's drainage by digging a hole in it when its topsoil is moist. Make the hole 12 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water, and monitor its drainage. If water drains from the hole in fewer than three hours, then the soil has good drainage. If it takes three to 12 hours to drain, then the drainage is OK for most landscaping plants, but you still could improve the drainage. A hole that takes more than 12 hours to drain means the soil has poor drainage that definitely needs to be improved.
Fix Drainage in a Dry Climate
If you live in a dry climate, one way to improve soil drainage is to add a layer of gravel in the bottom of your desired planting area. Dig about 2 feet deep in the entire planting area. Place a 12-inch-thick layer of gravel in the excavated site, and follow it with a few inches of the soil you removed while digging. Over the top of the soil, place 6 to 8 inches of sharp sand. Afterward, the site will offer good drainage for succulents such as prickly pear.
Fix Drainage in a Wet Climate
If you live in a wet climate, create good drainage with an elevated "rock garden." On top of the current soil, set a layer of large, 8- to 12-inch-high rocks. Add coarse sand or pea gravel on the rocks, and then wet the site. Allow it to dry for a few days. Finally, add 3 to 4 inches of scree. A scree suggested by Urban Horticulture Program Assistant John McLaughlin, Ph.D., in an article on the University of Florida IFAS Extension website is a mixture that is 1 part Canadian sphagnum peat, 1 part potting soil, 2 parts course sand and 6 parts bonsai or poultry grit, which is small pebbles of porous granite or other stone. Mix the scree ingredients in a wheelbarrow, and then dump the mixture on top of the sand or pea gravel. Spread the scree evenly across the pile's top. Then cover it with a 1-inch-thick layer of 1/2-inch gravel.
Plant Properly
The temperature at transplanting time should be at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit and not lower than 50 F, especially if you transplant small succulents. Wear a pair of thick, leather work gloves to avoid injuries from succulents' prickly points.
If a succulent you want to transplant is in the ground, then use a trowel or shovel to loosen the soil, sand or gravel several inches from the plant's perimeter, and gently remove the plant from the ground. Lightly brush soil from the roots.
Dig into the new planting site's soil material, making a hole deep and wide enough for the root spread of the succulent you want to put in the hole. Place the root part of the plant in the hole, and allow the fleshy or stem parts of the plant to remain above the soil line. Spread the roots, and cover them with the site's soil material, making the material even with the surrounding ground's surface. Tamp the soil. Allow the plant to dry out and to repair its roots for about one week before watering. Add water once each week thereafter. It's time to water when you stick your finger a few inches into the surrounding soil and find the soil is dry.
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