文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Biting into a sweet, succulent cherry tomato is one of the joys of summer, and somehow it tastes even better when you grew it yourself. Cherry tomatoes are not difficult to grow in a home garden, but just because cherry tomatoes are petite doesn't mean the plants are; like many tomato cultivars, some cherry tomato plants have a tendency to sprawl, and there are many good reasons to tidy them up. With some basic pruning techniques, you can trim back your cherry tomato plants fairly quickly, and get back to enjoying your summer salad.
Types to Prune
Tomato plants fall into one of two types: determinate and indeterminate. They are determinate if they form a terminal, or top, flower cluster, which is what causes them to stop growing in height. Because they grow to a fixed size and produce a fixed number of cherry tomatoes, determinates should not be pruned, although you should remove the shoots below the first flower cluster. Plants with lateral flower clusters, and no terminal, are indeterminates; their fruit ripens more slowly, and they will keep growing until killed by frost. These are the type of cherry tomato plants which should be pruned. Indeterminate cherry tomato cultivars include Super Sweets, Sweet Million, Large Red Cherry and Yellow Pear; determinate varieties include Tiny Tim and Mountain Belle.
Benefits of Pruning
Prune your indeterminates to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize disease. In the process of vigorous growing, they send out "suckers", or shoots, that come from the main stem and can turn into main stems themselves, which send out more shoots. Although this makes the plant produce more fruit, the benefit is outweighed when the main stem can no longer bear the weight and the plant sprawls on the ground. This is not only unsightly but destructive; as fruit falls in the dirt, it is exposed to damage from insects and viruses. On the other hand, a pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant has all its fruit in the air, its leaves exposed to the sun, and flavor-enhancing sugar going to the developing fruit, since the plant is only growing at the tip. The cherry tomatoes will be larger and tastier, and will form more quickly. In addition, the leaves dry off faster when it the plant is pruned and supported, reducing the risk of bacterial and fungal infections.
Pruning Techniques
Prune the cherry tomato plant to one or—at most—two main stems, and remove lower branches to deter splashback reinfection of pathogens left in the dirt from previous years. Pinch the new suckers soon after they appear. The best way to do this is with your fingers, twisting the sucker until it snaps off; this results in a more desirable break from the stem than would occur with the use of scissors. If you've let suckers grow too long and they are hard to snap off manually, use a retractable knife. Avoid sun scald by leaving enough leaves to cover and protect the tomatoes, and prevent fungal infection by never pruning a wet tomato plant. Keep cherry tomatoes free of side stems below the first fruit cluster.
Types to Prune
Tomato plants fall into one of two types: determinate and indeterminate. They are determinate if they form a terminal, or top, flower cluster, which is what causes them to stop growing in height. Because they grow to a fixed size and produce a fixed number of cherry tomatoes, determinates should not be pruned, although you should remove the shoots below the first flower cluster. Plants with lateral flower clusters, and no terminal, are indeterminates; their fruit ripens more slowly, and they will keep growing until killed by frost. These are the type of cherry tomato plants which should be pruned. Indeterminate cherry tomato cultivars include Super Sweets, Sweet Million, Large Red Cherry and Yellow Pear; determinate varieties include Tiny Tim and Mountain Belle.
Benefits of Pruning
Prune your indeterminates to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize disease. In the process of vigorous growing, they send out "suckers", or shoots, that come from the main stem and can turn into main stems themselves, which send out more shoots. Although this makes the plant produce more fruit, the benefit is outweighed when the main stem can no longer bear the weight and the plant sprawls on the ground. This is not only unsightly but destructive; as fruit falls in the dirt, it is exposed to damage from insects and viruses. On the other hand, a pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant has all its fruit in the air, its leaves exposed to the sun, and flavor-enhancing sugar going to the developing fruit, since the plant is only growing at the tip. The cherry tomatoes will be larger and tastier, and will form more quickly. In addition, the leaves dry off faster when it the plant is pruned and supported, reducing the risk of bacterial and fungal infections.
Pruning Techniques
Prune the cherry tomato plant to one or—at most—two main stems, and remove lower branches to deter splashback reinfection of pathogens left in the dirt from previous years. Pinch the new suckers soon after they appear. The best way to do this is with your fingers, twisting the sucker until it snaps off; this results in a more desirable break from the stem than would occur with the use of scissors. If you've let suckers grow too long and they are hard to snap off manually, use a retractable knife. Avoid sun scald by leaving enough leaves to cover and protect the tomatoes, and prevent fungal infection by never pruning a wet tomato plant. Keep cherry tomatoes free of side stems below the first fruit cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are prized for their crimson, juicy fruit. You're not the only one who enjoys the taste of tomatoes. Various pests may attack and feed on the tomato plant's fruit and foliage, causing leaf loss, plant stress and potential fruit loss. Protect your garden from some of the most common pests that afflict tomato plants.
Psyllids
Psyllids are tiny yellow or green insects that congregate on the underside of tomato leaves and inject a poison into the leaves, turning the tomato plant's foliage yellow and purple. These pests rarely reach population levels that cause true damage; most gardeners simply dislike psyllids for aesthetic reasons.
If you choose to control and eradicate psyllids, make your own psyllid insecticide at home:
Step 1
Pour 1/2 ounce of liquid hand soap or liquid dish detergent into a reusable spray bottle.
Step 2
Add 2 quarts of water to the spray bottle.
Step 3
Mix thoroughly.
Step 4
Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant, focusing on the underside of leaves where psyllids like to gather.
Step 5
Repeat once a week until psyllid activity subsides.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles, another common tomato pest, are brown or black beetles that hop away from you when touched. The adult beetles eat small holes into the foliage of the tomato plant.
Cover the vegetable bed with a floating row cover to block out beetles and protect young tomato plants. A floating row cover is an ultralight, ultrathin landscaping sheet that keeps pests from reaching the underlying plants but still lets sunlight and water get through. Drape the row cover over the garden bed as soon as tomato seedlings emerge, and weigh down the edges of the sheet with rocks or with U-shaped garden pins.
If flea beetles have already arrived, a floating row cover will not help. Instead, dust all exposed surfaces of the tomato plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth. This all-natural powder is made from crushed diatoms. The powder's tiny, sharp edges kill flea beetles.
Hornworms
If you see large gray-green or green caterpillars crawling on your tomato plants, you have a tomato hornworm problem. This pest is a fast eater. In just a few days, the caterpillars can completely strip the entire tomato plant of its leaves and fruit.
Pick the hornworms off of the tomato plant by hand. This is a convenient, efficient and simple way to eradicate the problem. Crush the caterpillars or drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
If you prefer a hands-off approach, use an organic caterpillar insecticide made with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki. Bt is a natural bacterium that kills caterpillars when it gets ingested. Bt insecticides come in sprays and powders.
Follow all labeled guidelines for product-specific application instructions. For example, when using a Bt insecticide powder with 0.4365 percent Bt, apply at a rate of 2 ounces for every 50 feet of row planting, dusting the powder evenly on all exposed parts of the tomato plant.
Whiteflies and Aphids
Whiteflies and aphids suck on the sap of the tomato plant and can cause wilting and leaf loss. A common symptom for either pest is the presence of honeydew -- a sticky, shiny substance excreted by the insects when they're feeding.
Spray the tomato plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. This is often all that's required to knock the aphids and whiteflies off of the plant and kill them. Repeat once a week to keep pest populations low.
Stink Bugs
Last but not least on the tomato plant's most-wanted pest list are stink bugs. These shield-shaped beetles come in various colors, including brown and green. If touched, they let out a pungent odor, hence their name. Stink bugs feed on tomato fruits causing spotting and the inner tissue becomes spongy and white. The first sign of damage appears as tiny dark spots surrounded by discoloring that can turn yellowish or green as the fruit matures.
Handpick the stink bugs off of the tomato plant -- wear gloves if you want to avoid their trademark stench -- and crush the bugs or drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Alternatively, use a handheld vacuum to quickly suck the insects off of the affected plant. Remove the vacuum's dust bag, place it in a sealed plastic bag and toss it in your freezer for a couple days to kill the trapped stink bugs.
Psyllids
Psyllids are tiny yellow or green insects that congregate on the underside of tomato leaves and inject a poison into the leaves, turning the tomato plant's foliage yellow and purple. These pests rarely reach population levels that cause true damage; most gardeners simply dislike psyllids for aesthetic reasons.
If you choose to control and eradicate psyllids, make your own psyllid insecticide at home:
Step 1
Pour 1/2 ounce of liquid hand soap or liquid dish detergent into a reusable spray bottle.
Step 2
Add 2 quarts of water to the spray bottle.
Step 3
Mix thoroughly.
Step 4
Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant, focusing on the underside of leaves where psyllids like to gather.
Step 5
Repeat once a week until psyllid activity subsides.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles, another common tomato pest, are brown or black beetles that hop away from you when touched. The adult beetles eat small holes into the foliage of the tomato plant.
Cover the vegetable bed with a floating row cover to block out beetles and protect young tomato plants. A floating row cover is an ultralight, ultrathin landscaping sheet that keeps pests from reaching the underlying plants but still lets sunlight and water get through. Drape the row cover over the garden bed as soon as tomato seedlings emerge, and weigh down the edges of the sheet with rocks or with U-shaped garden pins.
If flea beetles have already arrived, a floating row cover will not help. Instead, dust all exposed surfaces of the tomato plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth. This all-natural powder is made from crushed diatoms. The powder's tiny, sharp edges kill flea beetles.
Hornworms
If you see large gray-green or green caterpillars crawling on your tomato plants, you have a tomato hornworm problem. This pest is a fast eater. In just a few days, the caterpillars can completely strip the entire tomato plant of its leaves and fruit.
Pick the hornworms off of the tomato plant by hand. This is a convenient, efficient and simple way to eradicate the problem. Crush the caterpillars or drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
If you prefer a hands-off approach, use an organic caterpillar insecticide made with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki. Bt is a natural bacterium that kills caterpillars when it gets ingested. Bt insecticides come in sprays and powders.
Follow all labeled guidelines for product-specific application instructions. For example, when using a Bt insecticide powder with 0.4365 percent Bt, apply at a rate of 2 ounces for every 50 feet of row planting, dusting the powder evenly on all exposed parts of the tomato plant.
Whiteflies and Aphids
Whiteflies and aphids suck on the sap of the tomato plant and can cause wilting and leaf loss. A common symptom for either pest is the presence of honeydew -- a sticky, shiny substance excreted by the insects when they're feeding.
Spray the tomato plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. This is often all that's required to knock the aphids and whiteflies off of the plant and kill them. Repeat once a week to keep pest populations low.
Stink Bugs
Last but not least on the tomato plant's most-wanted pest list are stink bugs. These shield-shaped beetles come in various colors, including brown and green. If touched, they let out a pungent odor, hence their name. Stink bugs feed on tomato fruits causing spotting and the inner tissue becomes spongy and white. The first sign of damage appears as tiny dark spots surrounded by discoloring that can turn yellowish or green as the fruit matures.
Handpick the stink bugs off of the tomato plant -- wear gloves if you want to avoid their trademark stench -- and crush the bugs or drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Alternatively, use a handheld vacuum to quickly suck the insects off of the affected plant. Remove the vacuum's dust bag, place it in a sealed plastic bag and toss it in your freezer for a couple days to kill the trapped stink bugs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Don't be alarmed if you discover curled-up leaves on your otherwise healthy-looking tomato plants. Leaf curl, also called leaf roll, usually does not affect the quantity or quality of the tomatoes, according to the University of Illinois Extension service. Causes of leaf curl can include a physiological condition, exposure to herbicides or a virus affecting the tomato plant. Gardeners can take steps to prevent leaf curl, but the measures depend the source of the problem.
Physiological Leaf Curl
Rainy weather combined with cool temperatures can cause tomato plant leaves to curl or roll up on themselves. The condition, known as physiological leaf curl, can also affect seedlings soon after you transplant them outdoors. The problem does not require treatment because it does not inhibit plant growth or harm the fruit, says Judy Sedbrook, Colorado master gardener with the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Another type of physiological leaf roll--termed "non-parasitic leaf roll"--occurs in response to over-pruning or lack of water. The leaf curl will usually disappear in a few days, once the plant recovers from pruning or its water supply stabilizes.
Herbicide-Caused Leaf Curl
Tomato plants exposed to herbicides can show signs of leaf curl, and in severe cases, the leaf surface becomes white and the leaf itself turns thick and brittle. The most common herbicidal cause of leaf curl comes from 2,4-D, which is often used to treat lawns or crops for weeds. To minimize tomato plants' exposure to herbicides, never spray your plants with same sprayer that you use on your lawn. Don't use treated grass clippings as mulch around tomato plants. Herbicidal leaf curl can result in a harder-than-normal or misshapen tomato fruit, but unless the exposure to the herbicide is prolonged and severe, most plants will recover, especially if you provide them with frequent watering.
Leaf Curl Virus
Sucking insects like the sweet potato whitefly and aphid transmit a disease known as the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The condition usually affects tomatoes that grow indoors. Leaves that curl upward occur in the first stages of infection, then the leaves curl downward and become yellow. Since no cures exist for the virus, the best way to prevent yellow leaf curl virus is to control insect infestations and select healthy, insect-free transplants for fruit production.
Physiological Leaf Curl
Rainy weather combined with cool temperatures can cause tomato plant leaves to curl or roll up on themselves. The condition, known as physiological leaf curl, can also affect seedlings soon after you transplant them outdoors. The problem does not require treatment because it does not inhibit plant growth or harm the fruit, says Judy Sedbrook, Colorado master gardener with the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Another type of physiological leaf roll--termed "non-parasitic leaf roll"--occurs in response to over-pruning or lack of water. The leaf curl will usually disappear in a few days, once the plant recovers from pruning or its water supply stabilizes.
Herbicide-Caused Leaf Curl
Tomato plants exposed to herbicides can show signs of leaf curl, and in severe cases, the leaf surface becomes white and the leaf itself turns thick and brittle. The most common herbicidal cause of leaf curl comes from 2,4-D, which is often used to treat lawns or crops for weeds. To minimize tomato plants' exposure to herbicides, never spray your plants with same sprayer that you use on your lawn. Don't use treated grass clippings as mulch around tomato plants. Herbicidal leaf curl can result in a harder-than-normal or misshapen tomato fruit, but unless the exposure to the herbicide is prolonged and severe, most plants will recover, especially if you provide them with frequent watering.
Leaf Curl Virus
Sucking insects like the sweet potato whitefly and aphid transmit a disease known as the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The condition usually affects tomatoes that grow indoors. Leaves that curl upward occur in the first stages of infection, then the leaves curl downward and become yellow. Since no cures exist for the virus, the best way to prevent yellow leaf curl virus is to control insect infestations and select healthy, insect-free transplants for fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
According to research conducted by Ohio State University, "Uganda is an agrarian nation with more than 80 percent of its population engaged in small-farm agriculture." Needless to say, tomato production is an important part of Uganda's economy, as well as a food source for its people. However, Uganda's rainy season makes tomato plants very susceptible to diseases and pests. For the home gardener in Uganda, growing tomatoes is a challenge best met with planning and careful maintenance.
Step 1
Buy tomato seedlings carefully. There are many varieties in Uganda, but only a few of them are disease- and wilt-resistant. Contact the Office of International Programs in Agriculture to find where to obtain these plants. Plan to plant tomatoes in mid-February.
Step 2
Choose a planting site that has good air circulation and receives at least eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Prepare soil for planting tomatoes in Uganda by tilling it to a depth of 8 inches, adding local organic compost to the soil as you go. Rake and cultivate until you have a loose, fine, deep soil mix.
Step 3
Plant tomato seedlings 18 inches apart. Drive a stake near each plant, and tie it loosely with plant ties. Do not allow tomato plants to grow along the ground--the tomatoes will rot during the rainy season (March through May).
Step 4
Keep a sharp eye on tomato plants during the growing season and continue training the plants with stakes and ties as they grow heavy with tomatoes. If aphids or other insects appear, get a spray bottle full of water mixed with 1 tsp. of dishwashing liquid and spray the leaves as necessary.
Step 5
Control weeds near tomato plants by pulling them as they appear to reduce competition for nutrients. Avoid using herbicides. Water plants only when the soil is dry to the touch.
Step 1
Buy tomato seedlings carefully. There are many varieties in Uganda, but only a few of them are disease- and wilt-resistant. Contact the Office of International Programs in Agriculture to find where to obtain these plants. Plan to plant tomatoes in mid-February.
Step 2
Choose a planting site that has good air circulation and receives at least eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Prepare soil for planting tomatoes in Uganda by tilling it to a depth of 8 inches, adding local organic compost to the soil as you go. Rake and cultivate until you have a loose, fine, deep soil mix.
Step 3
Plant tomato seedlings 18 inches apart. Drive a stake near each plant, and tie it loosely with plant ties. Do not allow tomato plants to grow along the ground--the tomatoes will rot during the rainy season (March through May).
Step 4
Keep a sharp eye on tomato plants during the growing season and continue training the plants with stakes and ties as they grow heavy with tomatoes. If aphids or other insects appear, get a spray bottle full of water mixed with 1 tsp. of dishwashing liquid and spray the leaves as necessary.
Step 5
Control weeds near tomato plants by pulling them as they appear to reduce competition for nutrients. Avoid using herbicides. Water plants only when the soil is dry to the touch.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) naturally grow into short, bushy plants or tall vines, depending on their type. Tomato varieties are classified as determinate, indeterminate, semi-determinate or dwarf indeterminate. Determinate plants, also called bush tomatoes, grow 2 to 3 feet tall, while indeterminate tomatoes are also called vining tomatoes and grow up to 6 feet tall, but can grow as short, bushy plants when their central stems are pruned. Semi-determinate, or semi-bush, varieties grow 3 to 5 feet tall, and dwarf indeterminate, or dwarf vining, plants grow to the same height as bush tomatoes.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Most homegrown tomato plants produce between 3 and 9 pounds of fruit in one season. Two or three plants are usually sufficient for a family of four for fresh eating. Plant two varieties, such as a cherry tomato for salads and a paste or slicing tomato.
Varieties
The yield of tomato plants depends in part on the variety. Beefmaster, a slicing tomato, produced almost 10 pounds of fruit in a Washington State University study, while Yellow Perfection, another slicing tomato, produced just under 4 pounds. Indeterminate tomatoes produce more fruits than determinate types generally, because they continue fruiting until the first frost. Determinate types produce one crop and then dwindle.
Growing Conditions
Hot weather and drought adversely affect tomato production. Tomatoes drop their blossoms, failing to produce fruit when temperatures remain above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Purdue University's website. Drought, disease and poor soil also limit tomato growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties and provide good growing conditions for the most abundant yields.
Staking Methods
Indeterminate varieties grow on sprawling, robust vines. Gardeners may choose to prune and stake these plants or let them grow on the ground. Pruned and staked varieties produce fewer, but larger tomatoes, and are more prone to sun scald. Those grown on the ground produce smaller tomatoes in larger quantities. They have more problems with soil diseases. In general, pruning and staking is the preferred practice for producing high-quality tomatoes.
Varieties
The yield of tomato plants depends in part on the variety. Beefmaster, a slicing tomato, produced almost 10 pounds of fruit in a Washington State University study, while Yellow Perfection, another slicing tomato, produced just under 4 pounds. Indeterminate tomatoes produce more fruits than determinate types generally, because they continue fruiting until the first frost. Determinate types produce one crop and then dwindle.
Growing Conditions
Hot weather and drought adversely affect tomato production. Tomatoes drop their blossoms, failing to produce fruit when temperatures remain above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Purdue University's website. Drought, disease and poor soil also limit tomato growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties and provide good growing conditions for the most abundant yields.
Staking Methods
Indeterminate varieties grow on sprawling, robust vines. Gardeners may choose to prune and stake these plants or let them grow on the ground. Pruned and staked varieties produce fewer, but larger tomatoes, and are more prone to sun scald. Those grown on the ground produce smaller tomatoes in larger quantities. They have more problems with soil diseases. In general, pruning and staking is the preferred practice for producing high-quality tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Rats are a common pest outside homes and in gardens. They eat almost any food, including tomato fruit right off the plants. You can recognize the damage from rats by their tracks and droppings around the plants. To eliminate a rat infestation in your tomato garden, set up traps and lay down repellents that will keep the rats away.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
Step 1
Remove any other food sources that may be tempting the rats to your tomatoes. This may include dog food bowls or a compost pile nearby.
Step 2
Pour three to five moth balls into a small cloth bag. Drive a stake into the ground next to your tomato plants and tie the bag to the top of the stake by the string closures. Moth balls are a natural rat repellent, but they dissolve in the rain so you will have to replace the balls after each rainfall. Be sure moth ball soaked rainwater cannot drain onto the tomatoes.
Step 3
Purchase fox urine pellets from a local hunting store and spread them on the ground around the tomatoes and around the perimeter of the garden, according to the instructions on the package. Replace the pellets after each heavy rainfall.
Step 4
Set out rat traps throughout the tomato garden and along the edges of the garden. For bait, smear peanut butter on the trigger. Check the traps daily. If a rat does trigger the trap, wear protective gloves and dispose of the body in a trash bag.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Tomatoes are among the most popular vegetables to grow in the home garden. The two most common reasons for tomato failure in Kansas are planting them too early before temperatures are sufficiently warm, and not providing adequate moisture, especially during hot, windy weather. Kansas gardeners with sandy soils should monitor soil moisture frequently, since these soils tend to dry out quickly.
Step 1
Buy dark green, compact plants, selecting disease-resistant varieties if possible. Fusarium wilt is the most common tomato plant disease in Kansas, according to Kansas State University, while nematodes affect tomatoes in areas south of Interstate 70.
Step 2
Hand-broadcast a complete garden fertilizer on the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of soil. Dig the soil with a shovel to a depth of 8 inches or use a rototiller. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, which encourage lush vegetative growth with few fruits. The first number on the fertilizer box indicates the nitrogen level. It should be half the level of the other nutrients, i.e. 5-10-10.
Step 3
Plant tomatoes when the daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees F and all chance of frost is passed. According to Kansas State University, in southeastern Kansas, plant tomatoes early-to-mid April; in eastern and central Kansas, plant tomatoes from late April to early May. In northwest Kansas, plant tomatoes after May 15. Cover the tomatoes with a row cover or cloche if cold weather threatens.
Step 4
Water tomato plants at least weekly, as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't allow the soil to dry out between watering and avoid watering it until it is soggy, which contributes to blossom-end rot. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost, grass clippings or straw around the base of the plants to minimize weed growth and conserve moisture.
Step 5
Monitor tomato plants for disease and pest problems. Consult a local county extension office for help in identifying and treating specific problems. Good cultural practices, such as selecting disease-resistant plants and watering tomatoes evenly and consistently prevent many problems. Remove any dead or diseased plant material, hand-pick and destroy tomato hornworms and avoid the use of pesticides that kill ladybugs and lacewings, since these predatory insects help eliminate pests.
Step 6
Twist the tomatoes gently to remove them from the plants when they are ripe, or almost ripe (pink to bright red, depending on the variety). If a frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and lay them in a single layer in a box. Place them in a cool, dark place, such as a basement, to ripen.
Step 1
Buy dark green, compact plants, selecting disease-resistant varieties if possible. Fusarium wilt is the most common tomato plant disease in Kansas, according to Kansas State University, while nematodes affect tomatoes in areas south of Interstate 70.
Step 2
Hand-broadcast a complete garden fertilizer on the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of soil. Dig the soil with a shovel to a depth of 8 inches or use a rototiller. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, which encourage lush vegetative growth with few fruits. The first number on the fertilizer box indicates the nitrogen level. It should be half the level of the other nutrients, i.e. 5-10-10.
Step 3
Plant tomatoes when the daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees F and all chance of frost is passed. According to Kansas State University, in southeastern Kansas, plant tomatoes early-to-mid April; in eastern and central Kansas, plant tomatoes from late April to early May. In northwest Kansas, plant tomatoes after May 15. Cover the tomatoes with a row cover or cloche if cold weather threatens.
Step 4
Water tomato plants at least weekly, as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't allow the soil to dry out between watering and avoid watering it until it is soggy, which contributes to blossom-end rot. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost, grass clippings or straw around the base of the plants to minimize weed growth and conserve moisture.
Step 5
Monitor tomato plants for disease and pest problems. Consult a local county extension office for help in identifying and treating specific problems. Good cultural practices, such as selecting disease-resistant plants and watering tomatoes evenly and consistently prevent many problems. Remove any dead or diseased plant material, hand-pick and destroy tomato hornworms and avoid the use of pesticides that kill ladybugs and lacewings, since these predatory insects help eliminate pests.
Step 6
Twist the tomatoes gently to remove them from the plants when they are ripe, or almost ripe (pink to bright red, depending on the variety). If a frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and lay them in a single layer in a box. Place them in a cool, dark place, such as a basement, to ripen.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) generally do well when they're grown in full sun and warm temperatures, but in very warm southern climates like that of Louisiana, tomato plants struggle to remain productive and set fruit when summer temperatures reach their peak. Louisiana's humidity doesn't help either, since tomatoes are more susceptible to disease in humid climates. The key to successfully growing tomatoes in the state lies in choosing the right varieties and timing the planting to avoid the worst of the climate's extremes.
Varieties for Louisiana
The best tomato cultivars for Louisiana include those that have been developed for both exceptional disease resistance and heat tolerance. Heat and disease tolerant varieties that do well in Louisiana include 'Heat Wave II,''Florida 91,' 'Sunchaser' and 'Sunleaper.'
In general, large beefsteak-type varieties do not produce well in Louisiana, but some varieties, including 'Beefmaster' and 'Ponderosa,' may be able to tolerate the state's climate.
Spring Planting
Tomatoes are vulnerable to damage from freezing temperatures, so don't set new plants in the garden until all danger of frost in your area is past. However, getting plants in the ground as early as possible will give them the best chance of producing a good crop of fruit before they succumb to the summer heat.
In southern Louisiana, including New Orleans, Lake Charles and Morgan City, it's generally safe to plant tomatoes in the middle of February. A bit farther north, in Baton Rogue and Opelousas, it's best to wait until the first half of March. In central Louisiana, including Alexandria, the safe planting time falls in late March, and in the northern part of the state, including Shreveport, temperatures are likely to be too cold until early April.
Fall Planting
Louisiana's relatively long growing season makes it possible to plant tomatoes in mid-summer for a fall harvest. When planted at this time, the plants begin to set fruit after the highest summer temperatures have passed but still have time to produce a crop before the first frosts of the fall kill the plants.
In southern Louisiana, sow seeds directly in the garden in the middle of July or transplant young plants in August. In northern Louisiana, fall tomatoes must be planted earlier to have time to produce before fall; in this part of the state, sow seeds near the end of June or set transplants in July.
Heat-tolerant varieties such as 'Spitfire,''Solar Set' and 'Solar Fire' are especially well suited to summer planting for a fall crop.
Varieties for Louisiana
The best tomato cultivars for Louisiana include those that have been developed for both exceptional disease resistance and heat tolerance. Heat and disease tolerant varieties that do well in Louisiana include 'Heat Wave II,''Florida 91,' 'Sunchaser' and 'Sunleaper.'
In general, large beefsteak-type varieties do not produce well in Louisiana, but some varieties, including 'Beefmaster' and 'Ponderosa,' may be able to tolerate the state's climate.
Spring Planting
Tomatoes are vulnerable to damage from freezing temperatures, so don't set new plants in the garden until all danger of frost in your area is past. However, getting plants in the ground as early as possible will give them the best chance of producing a good crop of fruit before they succumb to the summer heat.
In southern Louisiana, including New Orleans, Lake Charles and Morgan City, it's generally safe to plant tomatoes in the middle of February. A bit farther north, in Baton Rogue and Opelousas, it's best to wait until the first half of March. In central Louisiana, including Alexandria, the safe planting time falls in late March, and in the northern part of the state, including Shreveport, temperatures are likely to be too cold until early April.
Fall Planting
Louisiana's relatively long growing season makes it possible to plant tomatoes in mid-summer for a fall harvest. When planted at this time, the plants begin to set fruit after the highest summer temperatures have passed but still have time to produce a crop before the first frosts of the fall kill the plants.
In southern Louisiana, sow seeds directly in the garden in the middle of July or transplant young plants in August. In northern Louisiana, fall tomatoes must be planted earlier to have time to produce before fall; in this part of the state, sow seeds near the end of June or set transplants in July.
Heat-tolerant varieties such as 'Spitfire,''Solar Set' and 'Solar Fire' are especially well suited to summer planting for a fall crop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Gardeners often marvel over towering tomato plants in the garden. What many people do not know is that too much upward growth of the tomato plant can cause problems with the fruit. After the first month of growth, tomatoes can double their size every 12 to 15 days. The plant variety, weather conditions, soil and pruning all affect how tall the tomato plant will grow.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
Step 1
Choose a tomato plant that typically has limited growth upward. A determinate plant only grows to around 4 feet tall. Determinate varieties that have limited growth usually produce smaller fruit and all at once. Varieties include Early Girl and Early Cascade. Indeterminate tomato continue to grow in height until the season ends. Common varieties of indeterminate plants include Super-Steak, Brandywine, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Big Boy.
Step 2
Prune the intermediate tomato plant regularly using a simple pruning technique. Find small shoots, typically called suckers, that need to be removed. Suckers can be found between the branches of the plant and the main stalk of the plant. Pinch off the suckers with your fingers. Do not use a shear for this process unless the sucker has been on the plant for awhile and is too thick to snap off.
Step 3
Cut off the top of the tomato plant where you want it to stop growing. Use sharp clean pruning shears to make an even cut across the main stalk. This cut may seem harmful to the tomato plant, but when a plant is getting too tall, it is likely strong and healthy if it is reaching outrageous heights. Once the stalk is pruned to your desired height, regularly check for suckers that grow at the top. Pinch the suckers off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
A wide range of fruits exist in today's world with a diverse range of shapes, sizes, colors and flavors. One of the most commonly confused fruits among people is the humble tomato. Yes, it is indeed, technically speaking, a fruit. It may fascinate you to know that there are many other fruits that look like a tomato.
Persimmon
The most widely cultivated species of persimmon is the Japanese persimmon, also known as "kaki." It is generally a light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color and looks very much like a tomato in many cases. Persimmons have a soft texture and a sweet, slightly tangy taste, and their size can very from a few oz. to more than 1 lbs.
Sharon Fruit
Sharon fruit is a relative of the persimmon. The name originates from Israel's Sharon Valley, where the fruit was originally cultivated. Today they also are grown in South Africa. Sharon fruit is a tomato-like fruit that is orange in color and has a tough skin. It is a sweet, seedless fruit that has no core. Sharon fruit are just like persimmons, but with the astringency removed. They can be eaten as is, without peeling the skin.
Tamarillo
In most parts of the world the tamarillo is known as the "tree tomato." In New Zealand however, it is known as a tamarillo, due to a decision by the New Zealand Tree Tomato Promotions Council to change the name in an attempt to add to its exotic appeal and distinguish it from other garden tomatoes. The tamarillo comes in various colors such as deep purple, dark red, orange and yellow. It is low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Physalis
Physalis, or cape gooseberry, is a fruit commonly grown in South Africa and Columbia. It is orange in color and similar in structure to a cherry tomato. It has many health benefits such as being a source of vitamin C, iron, calcium, and contains small amounts of vitamin B.
Pepino Dulce
A pepino dulce is a tomato-like fruit with a sweet taste and a texture similar to a tomato. It originates from Columbia, Peru and Chile, but is also commercially cultivated in New Zealand and Western Australia. Pepino dulce comes in many colors such as yellow, green, cream, purple, or green or cream with purple stripes; it is a relative of the tomato.
Persimmon
The most widely cultivated species of persimmon is the Japanese persimmon, also known as "kaki." It is generally a light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color and looks very much like a tomato in many cases. Persimmons have a soft texture and a sweet, slightly tangy taste, and their size can very from a few oz. to more than 1 lbs.
Sharon Fruit
Sharon fruit is a relative of the persimmon. The name originates from Israel's Sharon Valley, where the fruit was originally cultivated. Today they also are grown in South Africa. Sharon fruit is a tomato-like fruit that is orange in color and has a tough skin. It is a sweet, seedless fruit that has no core. Sharon fruit are just like persimmons, but with the astringency removed. They can be eaten as is, without peeling the skin.
Tamarillo
In most parts of the world the tamarillo is known as the "tree tomato." In New Zealand however, it is known as a tamarillo, due to a decision by the New Zealand Tree Tomato Promotions Council to change the name in an attempt to add to its exotic appeal and distinguish it from other garden tomatoes. The tamarillo comes in various colors such as deep purple, dark red, orange and yellow. It is low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Physalis
Physalis, or cape gooseberry, is a fruit commonly grown in South Africa and Columbia. It is orange in color and similar in structure to a cherry tomato. It has many health benefits such as being a source of vitamin C, iron, calcium, and contains small amounts of vitamin B.
Pepino Dulce
A pepino dulce is a tomato-like fruit with a sweet taste and a texture similar to a tomato. It originates from Columbia, Peru and Chile, but is also commercially cultivated in New Zealand and Western Australia. Pepino dulce comes in many colors such as yellow, green, cream, purple, or green or cream with purple stripes; it is a relative of the tomato.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Many inexperienced gardeners who are attempting to grow their own tomatoes for the first time provide too much water for the tomato plants. Signs of excessive water include wilting leaves, which novice gardeners often misinterpret as an indication that the plants require more water rather than less. Correcting your approach to watering and providing overly hydrated tomato plants with consistent, careful treatment thereafter might yet produce a good crop of tomatoes.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
Step 1
Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered.
Step 2
Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems.
Step 3
Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4
Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch.
Step 5
Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are frost-tender plants, and they're usually grown as an annual crop. Sowing tomato seeds indoors before frosts are over in spring prolongs the growing season, but the warm temperatures and low light levels indoors cause tall, thin, weak tomato seedlings. Starting tomatoes outdoors in shady areas also causes seedlings with those conditions. These leggy seedlings grow into thin-stemmed plants that break under the weight of a heavy crop, but you can fix leggy tomato seedlings when you transplant them into your garden.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
Burying Seedling Stems
Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm.
Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors.
Digging Trenches
Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench.
Caring for Transplanted Seedlings
Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy.
The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine.
Avoiding Leggy Seedlings
Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants.
Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
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