文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Homegrown fresh tomatoes are, for some, one of the best things to come out of summer. Many gardeners watch their tomato plants all summer, waiting for the day when that first tomato can be picked and eaten. But, at times, that first bite can bring disappointment instead of joy when the tomato has a mushy, soft texture instead of the expected firm, juicy taste. Growing techniques, plants and over-watering can all impact a tomato.
Type of Plant
Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it.
Growing Environment
The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato.
Watering
Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants.
Tomato Storage
Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.
Type of Plant
Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it.
Growing Environment
The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato.
Watering
Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants.
Tomato Storage
Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
To diagnose tomato fungal diseases, look for rotten-looking spots in humid weather, especially if it has been raining or you've been watering your tomatoes (Lycopericon esculentum) with sprinklers. No fungal disease is limited strictly to tomatoes. The same fungal diseases that strike tomatoes strike other plants. Turn to simple homemade fungicides to help get rid of the problem.
Fungal Diseases Found on Tomatoes
When the weather is hot, watch for the telltale spots of these fungal diseases that often strike tomatoes.
Powdery mildew (Leveillula taurica) causes irregular, bright-yellow blotches on leaves. The blotches develop dead spots surrounded by a yellow halos. White spores form on the tops or bottoms of the leaves. Powdery mildew eventually kills the leaves, weakening the plant and causing sunburned tomatoes.
Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as spots with concentric rings and surrounded by yellow on leaves, stems and tomatoes. Early blight can kill much of the leaves and cause tomatoes to drop.
Late blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, typically starts in cool weather, forming dark, water-soaked spots with white mold on the edges. Late blight can turn leaves and stems completely brown within two weeks. Infected tomatoes develop shiny dark spots.
Septoria (Septoria lycopersici) typically appears when it has rained or you're using sprinklers and the temperatures are between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. After the plants begin to set tomatoes, small beige spots with dark borders appear on leaves near the ground. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The weakened plant produces smaller, poorer quality tomatoes.
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulfa, forms yellowish or pale green spots on the tops of leaves. As the top leaves grow, turning more yellow, a gray, velvety mass of spores grow on the bottoms of the leaves. It can also attack blossoms, stems and tomatoes. It starts in warm weather with high humidity.
Anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum coccoides, causes small rounded dents on tomatoes that grow larger and spread deeper. This fungus also appears in warm, humid weather with sprinkler watering or rainfall.
Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) spreads upward from the soil, causing drooping plants and wilting, yellow leaves, sometimes on just one side of the stem.
Fungicides for Powdery Mildew
Try apple cider vinegar or milk to treat powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of 5 percent acidic apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on the leaves during the cool hours of morning.
Spray a mixture of 1 ounce of milk to 9 ounces of water every three to four days when you first spot signs of powdery mildew on your plants.
More Homemade Fungicides
To prevent or treat fungal diseases, spray plants the tops and bottoms of the leaves twice a week during wet weather and once each week during dry conditions with a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide, which you can buy at most drug stores. Check the label on the hydrogen peroxide, but there's usually no need to dilute the standard drugstore type. Do not spray young seedlings with this mixture as it can potentially kill them. Use this mixture only on established plants.
Finely chop 1 garlic bulb, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, 4 hot peppers and 1 lemon in a blender. Steep this mixture overnight then strain it through cheesecloth or other fine strainer. Add 4 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 gallon of water, pour it into a sprayer and use it when you spot symptoms of fungal disease, spraying tops and bottom of the foliage.
To make a fungicide from cornmeal, soak 1 cup of whole, ground cornmeal in 5 gallons of water then strain the solids. Spray the milky juice on tomato leaves.
Finely chop 1 cup of horseradish roots in a food processor and soak it in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, mix it with 2 quarts of water, put it in a sprayer and spray it on the leaves.
Bordeaux Mixture
While the term "homemade" suggests household ingredients, perhaps the best organically approved fungicide you can make at home to treat a wide variety of fungal disease on tomatoes uses ingredients that you can buy at most garden supply centers. The Bordeaux mixture is especially useful for treating early and late blight in addition to powdery mildew and other fungal infections.
To make a Bordeaux mixture appropriate for home garden use, mix 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime with 1 pint of water. Separately, mix 6 1/2 tablespoons of copper sulfate in another pint of water. Filter each of these through cheesecloth or other loosely woven cloth to remove particles that might clog a sprayer nozzle. Pour the copper sulfate solution into the garden sprayer tank then the hydrated lime solution then another 3 pints of water.
Shake the tank frequently while you spray the tomatoes.
Fungal Diseases Found on Tomatoes
When the weather is hot, watch for the telltale spots of these fungal diseases that often strike tomatoes.
Powdery mildew (Leveillula taurica) causes irregular, bright-yellow blotches on leaves. The blotches develop dead spots surrounded by a yellow halos. White spores form on the tops or bottoms of the leaves. Powdery mildew eventually kills the leaves, weakening the plant and causing sunburned tomatoes.
Early blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, appears as spots with concentric rings and surrounded by yellow on leaves, stems and tomatoes. Early blight can kill much of the leaves and cause tomatoes to drop.
Late blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, typically starts in cool weather, forming dark, water-soaked spots with white mold on the edges. Late blight can turn leaves and stems completely brown within two weeks. Infected tomatoes develop shiny dark spots.
Septoria (Septoria lycopersici) typically appears when it has rained or you're using sprinklers and the temperatures are between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. After the plants begin to set tomatoes, small beige spots with dark borders appear on leaves near the ground. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The weakened plant produces smaller, poorer quality tomatoes.
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulfa, forms yellowish or pale green spots on the tops of leaves. As the top leaves grow, turning more yellow, a gray, velvety mass of spores grow on the bottoms of the leaves. It can also attack blossoms, stems and tomatoes. It starts in warm weather with high humidity.
Anthracnose, caused by the fungus Colletotrichum coccoides, causes small rounded dents on tomatoes that grow larger and spread deeper. This fungus also appears in warm, humid weather with sprinkler watering or rainfall.
Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) spreads upward from the soil, causing drooping plants and wilting, yellow leaves, sometimes on just one side of the stem.
Fungicides for Powdery Mildew
Try apple cider vinegar or milk to treat powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
Mix 2 to 3 tablespoons of 5 percent acidic apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water. Pour into a garden sprayer and spray on the leaves during the cool hours of morning.
Spray a mixture of 1 ounce of milk to 9 ounces of water every three to four days when you first spot signs of powdery mildew on your plants.
More Homemade Fungicides
To prevent or treat fungal diseases, spray plants the tops and bottoms of the leaves twice a week during wet weather and once each week during dry conditions with a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide, which you can buy at most drug stores. Check the label on the hydrogen peroxide, but there's usually no need to dilute the standard drugstore type. Do not spray young seedlings with this mixture as it can potentially kill them. Use this mixture only on established plants.
Finely chop 1 garlic bulb, 2 tablespoons of canola oil, 4 hot peppers and 1 lemon in a blender. Steep this mixture overnight then strain it through cheesecloth or other fine strainer. Add 4 tablespoons of this mixture in 1 gallon of water, pour it into a sprayer and use it when you spot symptoms of fungal disease, spraying tops and bottom of the foliage.
To make a fungicide from cornmeal, soak 1 cup of whole, ground cornmeal in 5 gallons of water then strain the solids. Spray the milky juice on tomato leaves.
Finely chop 1 cup of horseradish roots in a food processor and soak it in 16 ounces of water for 24 hours. Strain the liquid, mix it with 2 quarts of water, put it in a sprayer and spray it on the leaves.
Bordeaux Mixture
While the term "homemade" suggests household ingredients, perhaps the best organically approved fungicide you can make at home to treat a wide variety of fungal disease on tomatoes uses ingredients that you can buy at most garden supply centers. The Bordeaux mixture is especially useful for treating early and late blight in addition to powdery mildew and other fungal infections.
To make a Bordeaux mixture appropriate for home garden use, mix 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime with 1 pint of water. Separately, mix 6 1/2 tablespoons of copper sulfate in another pint of water. Filter each of these through cheesecloth or other loosely woven cloth to remove particles that might clog a sprayer nozzle. Pour the copper sulfate solution into the garden sprayer tank then the hydrated lime solution then another 3 pints of water.
Shake the tank frequently while you spray the tomatoes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Trichosanthes cucumerina L.
Common Names
Snake Gourd, Annual Gourd, Serpent Gourd, Chichinga, Padwal, Snake Tomato, Chinese Cucumber, Club Gourd, Gudda Bean, Serpent Cucumber, Viper’s Gourd
Synonyms
Anguina cucumerina, Cucumis anguinus, Involucraria anguina, Trichosanthes ambrozii, Trichosanthes anguina, Trichosanthes brevibracteata, Trichosanthes pachyrrhachis, Trichosanthes pedatifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Tribe: Sicyoeae
Genus: Trichosanthes
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Trichosanthes cucumerina is an annual climber raised for its strikingly long fruit, used as a vegetable and for medicine. The leaves are kidney-shaped, rich green in color and up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long. White flowers (male and female) bloom in summer followed by yellowish-green fruit with red seeds. The narrow, soft-skinned fruit can reach up to 6 feet (2 m) long.
How to Grow and Care
First of all, Snake Gourds need a trellis or something that they can grow up — arbor, chain link fence, etc. Make sure the structure is sturdy due to the weight of the large gourds. Start the seeds indoors early after soaking overnight to increase germination time. Transplant outside much as you would bean plants in well mixed organic matter and topsoil.
Seeds can be saved for the following season but toss out any light colored or white seeds. Keep and plant many more seeds than you think you may need, as the germination rate is only about 60 percent.
Snake Gourd care is similar to that of most other gourds. Prune the plant’s lateral branches to increase fruit set and production. Some people tie a pebble or other weight to the flower end of the gourd to foster a straighter fruit, but this is just for aesthetics. There is no need to do so.
Harvest Snake Gourds when young, around 40-50 days from planting. The long varietals may then be ready when only 16-18 inches, while the shorter cultivars will be around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length.
Origin
Native to India.
Trichosanthes cucumerina L.
Common Names
Snake Gourd, Annual Gourd, Serpent Gourd, Chichinga, Padwal, Snake Tomato, Chinese Cucumber, Club Gourd, Gudda Bean, Serpent Cucumber, Viper’s Gourd
Synonyms
Anguina cucumerina, Cucumis anguinus, Involucraria anguina, Trichosanthes ambrozii, Trichosanthes anguina, Trichosanthes brevibracteata, Trichosanthes pachyrrhachis, Trichosanthes pedatifolia
Scientific Classification
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Tribe: Sicyoeae
Genus: Trichosanthes
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Trichosanthes cucumerina is an annual climber raised for its strikingly long fruit, used as a vegetable and for medicine. The leaves are kidney-shaped, rich green in color and up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long. White flowers (male and female) bloom in summer followed by yellowish-green fruit with red seeds. The narrow, soft-skinned fruit can reach up to 6 feet (2 m) long.
How to Grow and Care
First of all, Snake Gourds need a trellis or something that they can grow up — arbor, chain link fence, etc. Make sure the structure is sturdy due to the weight of the large gourds. Start the seeds indoors early after soaking overnight to increase germination time. Transplant outside much as you would bean plants in well mixed organic matter and topsoil.
Seeds can be saved for the following season but toss out any light colored or white seeds. Keep and plant many more seeds than you think you may need, as the germination rate is only about 60 percent.
Snake Gourd care is similar to that of most other gourds. Prune the plant’s lateral branches to increase fruit set and production. Some people tie a pebble or other weight to the flower end of the gourd to foster a straighter fruit, but this is just for aesthetics. There is no need to do so.
Harvest Snake Gourds when young, around 40-50 days from planting. The long varietals may then be ready when only 16-18 inches, while the shorter cultivars will be around 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length.
Origin
Native to India.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
A major agricultural pest, the tomato fruitworm can feed on many different plants. Hence, the species has been given many different common names including cotton bollworm and corn earworm. It has also been known to consume tobacco, legumes, grain sorghum, and other vegetables and fruits.
The pest occurs throughout the Western Hemisphere. In warm areas several generations occur annually. North of Interstate 70 the pupae cannot overwinter in the soil. Most populations enter Missouri as migrating swarms of moths from the southern United States.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Tomato Fruitworm
The evidence of tomato fruitworm is usually a visible black hole at the base of the fruit stem. When the tomato is cut, tunneling is evident and the cavity may contain frass and decay as well as the worm itself.
Corn Earworm
Most evidence of corn earworm is at the tip of the ear—damaged kernels, frass, the worm itself, and possibly resulting fungal disease.
Life Cycle
The eggs of this pest are each about ½ the diameter of a pinhead. They are spherical with a flattened base and white or cream in color, developing a reddish-brown band just prior to the young hatching. Depending on the temperature, the young hatch in 2-10 days.
The larvae measure 11/2-2 inches when fully grown and may be green, brown, pink, yellow, or even black. They have tan heads and alternating light and dark stripes run lengthwise on the bodies. The skin is coarse and has small, thorn-like projections called tubercles. The larval stage lasts 14-21 days.
When the larvae are finished feeding the worms drop to the ground and enter the soil near the base of the plant where they transform into shiny brown pupae. During summer adults emerge in 10-14 days and start the cycle over. In the fall, south of Interstate 70 the pupae survive winter 2-6 inches below the soil surface. The moths emerge from overwintering pupae during late April and May.
Adult moths are usually light yellow-olive in color with a single dark spot near the center of each forewing. Each forewing has 3 slanted dark bands. Their hind wings are white.
The cycle repeats itself with the moths laying eggs at dusk on host plants on warm days. The total generation time is 28-35 days.
The moths lay eggs on the foliage of the tomato plants. With corn the moths usually lay eggs on corn tassels and silks but the larvae will migrate down the silk to the ear tips within one hour of hatching where they will feed on the developing kernels protected by the husk. When larval development is complete the larvae chew through the husk and drop to the ground to begin the pupal stage.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
Tomato Fruitworm
1. Sanitation. Collect and dispose of any infested fruit before the insect completes its life cycle.
2. Introduce parasitic wasps. Do not remove parasitized caterpillars. Instead, leave them to assist as a natural, biological control.
3. Dusting with diatomaceous earth may kill larvae.
4. Use of a biological pesticide such as Bt can kill larvae during the warmest months.
5. Use chemical pesticides. The pest has developed a resistance to many pesticides but the following pesticides are often used: esfenvalerate (Asana), methomyl (Lannate), azinphos-methyl (Guthion), carbaryl (Sevin), or pyrethrin. These must be applied before the worm enters the fruit.
6. Minimize local food sources. Avoid planting tomatoes near corn or other hosts of the fruitworm to minimize populations.
The pest occurs throughout the Western Hemisphere. In warm areas several generations occur annually. North of Interstate 70 the pupae cannot overwinter in the soil. Most populations enter Missouri as migrating swarms of moths from the southern United States.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Tomato Fruitworm
The evidence of tomato fruitworm is usually a visible black hole at the base of the fruit stem. When the tomato is cut, tunneling is evident and the cavity may contain frass and decay as well as the worm itself.
Corn Earworm
Most evidence of corn earworm is at the tip of the ear—damaged kernels, frass, the worm itself, and possibly resulting fungal disease.
Life Cycle
The eggs of this pest are each about ½ the diameter of a pinhead. They are spherical with a flattened base and white or cream in color, developing a reddish-brown band just prior to the young hatching. Depending on the temperature, the young hatch in 2-10 days.
The larvae measure 11/2-2 inches when fully grown and may be green, brown, pink, yellow, or even black. They have tan heads and alternating light and dark stripes run lengthwise on the bodies. The skin is coarse and has small, thorn-like projections called tubercles. The larval stage lasts 14-21 days.
When the larvae are finished feeding the worms drop to the ground and enter the soil near the base of the plant where they transform into shiny brown pupae. During summer adults emerge in 10-14 days and start the cycle over. In the fall, south of Interstate 70 the pupae survive winter 2-6 inches below the soil surface. The moths emerge from overwintering pupae during late April and May.
Adult moths are usually light yellow-olive in color with a single dark spot near the center of each forewing. Each forewing has 3 slanted dark bands. Their hind wings are white.
The cycle repeats itself with the moths laying eggs at dusk on host plants on warm days. The total generation time is 28-35 days.
The moths lay eggs on the foliage of the tomato plants. With corn the moths usually lay eggs on corn tassels and silks but the larvae will migrate down the silk to the ear tips within one hour of hatching where they will feed on the developing kernels protected by the husk. When larval development is complete the larvae chew through the husk and drop to the ground to begin the pupal stage.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
Tomato Fruitworm
1. Sanitation. Collect and dispose of any infested fruit before the insect completes its life cycle.
2. Introduce parasitic wasps. Do not remove parasitized caterpillars. Instead, leave them to assist as a natural, biological control.
3. Dusting with diatomaceous earth may kill larvae.
4. Use of a biological pesticide such as Bt can kill larvae during the warmest months.
5. Use chemical pesticides. The pest has developed a resistance to many pesticides but the following pesticides are often used: esfenvalerate (Asana), methomyl (Lannate), azinphos-methyl (Guthion), carbaryl (Sevin), or pyrethrin. These must be applied before the worm enters the fruit.
6. Minimize local food sources. Avoid planting tomatoes near corn or other hosts of the fruitworm to minimize populations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The tomato hornworm, Manduca quinquemaculata, and the tobacco hornworm, M. sexta, are common pests of tomato, tobacco, eggplant, pepper, and potato throughout most of the United States. The hornworms are large (up to 4 inches long), bright green caterpillars with diagonal white stripes and a prominent horn at the rear. The two species have slightly different markings. The tomato hornworm has 8 diagonal white stripes on each side; the horn is straight and black. The tobacco hornworm has 7 diagonal white stripes; its horn is curved and red.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Larvae of both species consume entire leaves and small stems and may chew large pieces from green fruit. Hornworm damage is obvious when the infestation is moderate to heavy because of the large amount of defoliation. Search for the large caterpillars. Large, black droppings on the leaves or ground beneath the plant will usually indicate the presence of hornworms.
Life Cycle
Hornworms overwinter in the soil as hard-shelled, brown pupae. Large adult moths, known as sphinx or hummingbird moths, emerge in May or June and deposit spherical green eggs on the undersides of leaves of host plants. The larvae hatch a week later and feed on foliage and fruit for three to four weeks until reaching full development. Pupation occurs in the soil and adults emerge 2 to 4 weeks later to lay second generation eggs. In Missouri there may be one or two generations depending on location.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick caterpillars. Handpicking is usually all that is needed to control these pests in a home garden. Larvae are most easily located in early morning, often on the exterior of the plant. Leave any caterpillars with small white cocoons on their backs; they are being parasitized by a braconid wasp, which will soon produce more wasps to control them.
2. Biological control. Bacterial insecticides containing Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk) are effective when larvae are smaller. It may take several days for the caterpillars to die, but feeding generally stops shortly after treatment.
3. Cultivation. Disking or rototilling after harvest destroys pupae in soil, reducing overwintering numbers.
4. Chemical control. An application of carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin will effectively control hornworms if handpicking is impractical. However, chemical control will also reduce the numbers of beneficial insects.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Larvae of both species consume entire leaves and small stems and may chew large pieces from green fruit. Hornworm damage is obvious when the infestation is moderate to heavy because of the large amount of defoliation. Search for the large caterpillars. Large, black droppings on the leaves or ground beneath the plant will usually indicate the presence of hornworms.
Life Cycle
Hornworms overwinter in the soil as hard-shelled, brown pupae. Large adult moths, known as sphinx or hummingbird moths, emerge in May or June and deposit spherical green eggs on the undersides of leaves of host plants. The larvae hatch a week later and feed on foliage and fruit for three to four weeks until reaching full development. Pupation occurs in the soil and adults emerge 2 to 4 weeks later to lay second generation eggs. In Missouri there may be one or two generations depending on location.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Handpick caterpillars. Handpicking is usually all that is needed to control these pests in a home garden. Larvae are most easily located in early morning, often on the exterior of the plant. Leave any caterpillars with small white cocoons on their backs; they are being parasitized by a braconid wasp, which will soon produce more wasps to control them.
2. Biological control. Bacterial insecticides containing Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk) are effective when larvae are smaller. It may take several days for the caterpillars to die, but feeding generally stops shortly after treatment.
3. Cultivation. Disking or rototilling after harvest destroys pupae in soil, reducing overwintering numbers.
4. Chemical control. An application of carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin will effectively control hornworms if handpicking is impractical. However, chemical control will also reduce the numbers of beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Viral infections can reduce plant vigor by disrupting cellular functioning, but do not commonly kill plants. Tobacco mosaic is one of the most highly persistent tomato diseases because it can remain viable without a host for many years and it is able to withstand high heat. The virus is spread primarily by mechanical methods. Gardeners can contaminate their hands when they touch tobacco products or infected plants and weeds and spread the virus to healthy plants.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Tobacco mosaic virus is not as distinct as other viruses, but yellow-green mottling on leaves is the most characteristic symptom of the disease. Infected plants have stunted growth, and flowers and leaflets may be curled, distorted, and smaller than normal in size. Open blooms may have brown streaks through them. Yellow, chlorotic spotting is characteristic of pepper plants that are infected.
Life Cycle
Tobacco mosaic virus survives on infected seeds, plant debris, and even clothing for months or years. The virus enters plants through wounds sustained in transplanting or pruning. It spreads rapidly once it is in the host. The virus can remain viable for years on dried plant debris and is extremely tolerant of very high temperatures. Tobacco products are the most common source of inoculum; smokers can infect plants by handling them. The virus is not spread by aphids.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy infected plants. Pull plants with mosaic symptoms immediately. Remove the debris from the garden area and bury them if possible.
2. Keep your garden weed-free. Some weed may be harboring the virus. These represent sources of inoculum.
3. Always wash your hands thoroughly and disinfect tools. Before handling plants, wash with soap and water, especially if you're a smoker.
4. Plant resistant varieties of tomato. Suggested varieties include: ‘Big Pick’, ‘Celebrity’, ‘President’, and ‘Park's Extra Early Hybrid’. Other resistant varieties will be labeled TMV resistant.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Tobacco mosaic virus is not as distinct as other viruses, but yellow-green mottling on leaves is the most characteristic symptom of the disease. Infected plants have stunted growth, and flowers and leaflets may be curled, distorted, and smaller than normal in size. Open blooms may have brown streaks through them. Yellow, chlorotic spotting is characteristic of pepper plants that are infected.
Life Cycle
Tobacco mosaic virus survives on infected seeds, plant debris, and even clothing for months or years. The virus enters plants through wounds sustained in transplanting or pruning. It spreads rapidly once it is in the host. The virus can remain viable for years on dried plant debris and is extremely tolerant of very high temperatures. Tobacco products are the most common source of inoculum; smokers can infect plants by handling them. The virus is not spread by aphids.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy infected plants. Pull plants with mosaic symptoms immediately. Remove the debris from the garden area and bury them if possible.
2. Keep your garden weed-free. Some weed may be harboring the virus. These represent sources of inoculum.
3. Always wash your hands thoroughly and disinfect tools. Before handling plants, wash with soap and water, especially if you're a smoker.
4. Plant resistant varieties of tomato. Suggested varieties include: ‘Big Pick’, ‘Celebrity’, ‘President’, and ‘Park's Extra Early Hybrid’. Other resistant varieties will be labeled TMV resistant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Septoria leaf spot is caused by a fungus, Septoria lycopersici. It is one of the most destructive diseases of tomato foliage and is particularly severe in areas where wet, humid weather persists for extended periods.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Septoria leaf spot usually appears on the lower leaves after the first fruit sets. Spots are circular, about 1/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter with dark brown margins and tan to gray centers with small black fruiting structures. Characteristically, there are many spots per leaf. This disease spreads upwards from oldest to youngest growth. If leaf lesions are numerous, the leaves turn slightly yellow, then brown, and then wither. Fruit infection is rare.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on infected tomato debris or on weeds in the nightshade family, the same family to which tomatoes belong. The fungus can also survive on equipment such as plant stakes and cages. Long periods of high relative humidity, temperatures of 60–80 degrees F, and leaf wetness are ideal conditions for development and spread of the pathogen.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased leaves. If caught early, the lower infected leaves can be removed and burned or destroyed. However, removing leaves above where fruit has formed will weaken the plant and expose fruit to sunscald. At the end of the season, collect all foliage from infected plants and dispose of or bury. Do not compost diseased plants.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. If the plants can still be handled without breaking them, stake or cage the plants to raise them off the ground and promote faster drying of the foliage.
3. Mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching will reduce splashing soil, which may contain fungal spores associated with debris. Apply mulch after the soil has warmed.
4. Do not use overhead watering. Overhead watering facilitates infection and spreads the disease. Use a soaker hose at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. Water early in the day.
5. Control weeds. Nightshade and horsenettle are frequently hosts of Septoria leaf spot and should be eradicated around the garden site.
6. Use crop rotation. Next year do not plant tomatoes back in the same location where diseased tomatoes grew. Wait 1–2 years before replanting tomatoes in these areas.
7. Use fungicidal sprays. If the above measures do not control the disease, you may want to use fungicidal sprays. Fungicides will not cure infected leaves, but they will protect new leaves from becoming infected. Apply at 7 to 10 day intervals throughout the season. Apply chlorothalonil, maneb, macozeb, or a copper-based fungicide, such as Bordeaux mixture, copper hydroxide, copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride sulfate. Follow harvest restrictions listed on the pesticide label.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Septoria leaf spot usually appears on the lower leaves after the first fruit sets. Spots are circular, about 1/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter with dark brown margins and tan to gray centers with small black fruiting structures. Characteristically, there are many spots per leaf. This disease spreads upwards from oldest to youngest growth. If leaf lesions are numerous, the leaves turn slightly yellow, then brown, and then wither. Fruit infection is rare.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on infected tomato debris or on weeds in the nightshade family, the same family to which tomatoes belong. The fungus can also survive on equipment such as plant stakes and cages. Long periods of high relative humidity, temperatures of 60–80 degrees F, and leaf wetness are ideal conditions for development and spread of the pathogen.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove diseased leaves. If caught early, the lower infected leaves can be removed and burned or destroyed. However, removing leaves above where fruit has formed will weaken the plant and expose fruit to sunscald. At the end of the season, collect all foliage from infected plants and dispose of or bury. Do not compost diseased plants.
2. Improve air circulation around the plants. If the plants can still be handled without breaking them, stake or cage the plants to raise them off the ground and promote faster drying of the foliage.
3. Mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching will reduce splashing soil, which may contain fungal spores associated with debris. Apply mulch after the soil has warmed.
4. Do not use overhead watering. Overhead watering facilitates infection and spreads the disease. Use a soaker hose at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. Water early in the day.
5. Control weeds. Nightshade and horsenettle are frequently hosts of Septoria leaf spot and should be eradicated around the garden site.
6. Use crop rotation. Next year do not plant tomatoes back in the same location where diseased tomatoes grew. Wait 1–2 years before replanting tomatoes in these areas.
7. Use fungicidal sprays. If the above measures do not control the disease, you may want to use fungicidal sprays. Fungicides will not cure infected leaves, but they will protect new leaves from becoming infected. Apply at 7 to 10 day intervals throughout the season. Apply chlorothalonil, maneb, macozeb, or a copper-based fungicide, such as Bordeaux mixture, copper hydroxide, copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride sulfate. Follow harvest restrictions listed on the pesticide label.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
A strain of the fungus, Phytophthora infestans, causes late blight in tomatoes. As the common name implies, Phytophthora is prevalent on tomato hosts in late summer, after the plants have bloomed. Late blight is more common in north central and northeastern states, but is observed in the Midwest when the humidity is high and temperatures are around 68 degrees F late in the growing season. Watch for the disease when cool, moist nights are followed by warm, humid days.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
One of the first symptoms of late blight is watersoaked patches on older leaves. Late blight attacks the older leaves first, then spreads to the fruit. Green-black watery patches develop on the upper surfaces of older leaves. These patches will enlarge quickly, and in moist weather, a downy growth may develop on the underside of the leaf. On the fruit, you will see rough, firm, dark-colored spots.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on tomato and potato plant debris, including potato tubers. The fungus can produce spores over a broad range of temperatures although spores are most infective at temperatures of 68 degrees F with high humidity. The spores are transmitted by water or are wind blown and may be introduced from diseased plants in nearby gardens. The fungus invades the plant through leaf stomata. Infection rarely occurs when temperatures are higher than 80 degrees F and humidity is less than 90%.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant resistant varieties. Several tomato varieties are designated as resistant to late blight.
2. Avoid overhead watering. Avoid working around plants when they are wet. Both of these practices can spread the fungal spores from plant to plant.
3. Clean up all garden debris in the fall. Remove and destroy any affected plants as soon as they are observed.
4. Practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes, potatoes, and celery in succession. All of these crops are susceptible.
5. Use a copper-based fungicide. Apply when symptoms are first identified. Reapply at 7–10 day intervals.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
One of the first symptoms of late blight is watersoaked patches on older leaves. Late blight attacks the older leaves first, then spreads to the fruit. Green-black watery patches develop on the upper surfaces of older leaves. These patches will enlarge quickly, and in moist weather, a downy growth may develop on the underside of the leaf. On the fruit, you will see rough, firm, dark-colored spots.
Life Cycle
The fungus overwinters on tomato and potato plant debris, including potato tubers. The fungus can produce spores over a broad range of temperatures although spores are most infective at temperatures of 68 degrees F with high humidity. The spores are transmitted by water or are wind blown and may be introduced from diseased plants in nearby gardens. The fungus invades the plant through leaf stomata. Infection rarely occurs when temperatures are higher than 80 degrees F and humidity is less than 90%.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant resistant varieties. Several tomato varieties are designated as resistant to late blight.
2. Avoid overhead watering. Avoid working around plants when they are wet. Both of these practices can spread the fungal spores from plant to plant.
3. Clean up all garden debris in the fall. Remove and destroy any affected plants as soon as they are observed.
4. Practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes, potatoes, and celery in succession. All of these crops are susceptible.
5. Use a copper-based fungicide. Apply when symptoms are first identified. Reapply at 7–10 day intervals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If your tomato plants yellow and wilt on one side of the plant or one side of a leaf, they may have Fusarium wilt. Fusarium wilt on tomatoes is caused by Fusarium oxysporumsp. lycopersici. It is a soilborn fungus that is found throughout the United States, especially in warm regions of the country. The organism is specific for tomato and is very longlived in all regions of the United States. The disease develops more quickly in soils that are high in nitrogen and low in potassium. In addition, plants grown in sandy soils tend to contract this disease more often.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Fusarium often causes yellowing on one side of the plant or leaf. Yellowing begins with the older, bottom leaves, followed by wilting, browning, and defoliation. Growth is typically stunted, and little or no fruit develops. Brown, vascular tissue can be found when the infected stem is cut at its base. Infected plants often die before maturing.
Life Cycle
Fusarium fungi survive in the soil or associated with plant debris for up to ten years. Disease development is favored by warm soil temperatures, and symptoms are most prevalent when temperatures range from 80–90 degrees F. The fungi enter the plants through their roots and are then spread throughout the plant by the plant's water-conducting vessels.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant resistant varieties. These varieties are labeled VF and include cultivars such as ‘Spring Giant’, ‘Burpee VF’, ‘Supersonic’, ‘Celebrity’, ‘Manalucie’, ‘Better Boy’, and ‘Small Fry’.
2. Remove infected plants from the garden. Removal of infected plants will help limit the disease's spread. Soil sterilization or fumigation will eliminate wilt fungi from the soil but are impractical for home gardeners. Soil replacement should be considered.
3. Avoid over-application of high nitrogen fertilizers. High soil nitrogen levels accompanied by low potassium levels can increase susceptibility to the fungus. Use a soil test to determine potassium levels and other nutrient deficiencies.
4. Avoid activity in wet plantings. Movement of wet soil from place to place via shoes or tools will spread the disease.
5. Sanitize stakes and tomato cages at the end of the season. Avoid using soil-encrusted tools and supports season after season. A thorough cleaning with water will reduce most risk of transmitting the disease.
6. For four years, do not plant solanaceous plants in the area where infection occurred. Tomato, potato, pepper, and eggplant are all susceptible to the disease and may allow its survival year after year in the same planting area.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Fusarium often causes yellowing on one side of the plant or leaf. Yellowing begins with the older, bottom leaves, followed by wilting, browning, and defoliation. Growth is typically stunted, and little or no fruit develops. Brown, vascular tissue can be found when the infected stem is cut at its base. Infected plants often die before maturing.
Life Cycle
Fusarium fungi survive in the soil or associated with plant debris for up to ten years. Disease development is favored by warm soil temperatures, and symptoms are most prevalent when temperatures range from 80–90 degrees F. The fungi enter the plants through their roots and are then spread throughout the plant by the plant's water-conducting vessels.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Plant resistant varieties. These varieties are labeled VF and include cultivars such as ‘Spring Giant’, ‘Burpee VF’, ‘Supersonic’, ‘Celebrity’, ‘Manalucie’, ‘Better Boy’, and ‘Small Fry’.
2. Remove infected plants from the garden. Removal of infected plants will help limit the disease's spread. Soil sterilization or fumigation will eliminate wilt fungi from the soil but are impractical for home gardeners. Soil replacement should be considered.
3. Avoid over-application of high nitrogen fertilizers. High soil nitrogen levels accompanied by low potassium levels can increase susceptibility to the fungus. Use a soil test to determine potassium levels and other nutrient deficiencies.
4. Avoid activity in wet plantings. Movement of wet soil from place to place via shoes or tools will spread the disease.
5. Sanitize stakes and tomato cages at the end of the season. Avoid using soil-encrusted tools and supports season after season. A thorough cleaning with water will reduce most risk of transmitting the disease.
6. For four years, do not plant solanaceous plants in the area where infection occurred. Tomato, potato, pepper, and eggplant are all susceptible to the disease and may allow its survival year after year in the same planting area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Hemp and russet mites are part of the eriophyid family of mites. Among the 100 or so plant-specific eriophyid species, including gall, rust, and blister mites, the tomato-attacking, microscopic russet mite is among the hardest to detect. Visible, if then, only in clusters, a single mite is too tiny to be seen by the human eye without magnification of 10x and higher. Their near invisibility makes these mites a particular threat to become established in your garden before you realize it.
Unlike spider mites, these voracious plant pests leave no webbing or other secretions when present. Visible damage to the plant is the first indication of its presence a damage often mistaken for mineral and other nutritional deficits.
Seen through a lens, russet-hemp mites are tapered, translucent, wedge-shaped cylinders that take on a yellow tint, especially in groups. Unlike most varieties of mites, eriophyid, including russet mites, have only two pairs of legs.
Like spider mites and others, they are increasing their range and are now common in places not previously seen. Because of their size, they’re effectively dispersed by wind.
Crop specific, they tend to multiply in areas of intensive growing, like the tomato raising regions of Florida, and also do quite well indoors where warm, moist environments facilitate rapid reproduction. In the past decade, they have spread from growers in California north into Oregon.
Lifecycle
Females over winter just inside stems of the plants they infest or where twigs are joined to stems. Translucent eggs, nearly adult in size, are laid in spring and go through two nymph stages, both little different than the adult. The mites produce multiple, over-lapping generations through the course of a season, maturing in as little as eight days in warm, humid conditions.
Damage
Mites are sap suckers working at the cellular level. Damage typically appears first at the bottom of plants and moves upward as they feed. Lower leaves begin to yellow and curl, the leaf droops and the stem discolors. As the plant’s nourishment is sucked away, less vigorous green growth and flowering is observed. The tiny mites, in increasing numbers, spread to all parts of the plant. The mites seem particularly attracted to flower resins and will congregate in flowers and blossoms where they can effectively hide and do great damage. If left unchecked, the mites will eventually sap the entire plant.
Russet Mite Control
The best controls for both indoor and outdoor growers are preventive methods. Make sure you don’t introduce mites into your grow space by bringing in infected plants or contaminated potting soil that may carry female mites or eggs. Regular and close scrutiny of your plants, especially around the leaves nearest the soil line if outdoors, or anywhere a plant is flowering, is crucial to early detection. What might appear to be an iron or magnesium deficiency may well be an infestation of russet mites. If in doubt, treat for mites as well as adjusting nutrient solutions or amending soil. Finding and removing mites in their first generation, a period that can be short as a week under the right conditions, can short-circuit a cascade of generations once the mites begin laying eggs.
Many of the precautions and treatments used on spider mites also apply to this pest. Inspection of plants is crucial during treatment. Look to see if damage has stopped. Remove all damaged leaves, stems, and even entire plants and dispose in a way that won’t spread the tiny creatures or its eggs.
Outdoor Plants:
Russet mites are most frequently found in outdoor container plantings. This suggests that they’re introduced both in potting soils and plants brought into the garden. Use only dependable, high-quality potting medium and plants from a nursery you trust. Don’t be afraid to ask if mites have been a problem. Even if they’ve been dealt with and the plant shows no signs of damage, eggs may still exist in the soil.
Introducing beneficial nematodes just as soil temperatures begin to warm and ahead of planting can help destroy eggs that are in the soil and nymphs once they hatch. Apply a second round of vermiculite-carried nematodes if damage to lowest leaves is spotted.
Avoid over-fertilizing plants. Mites are attracted to vigorous green growth that comes of too much nitrogen.
Periodic releases of predatory mites can blunt infestations, giving you time to deal with them. (Yes, the same spray mentioned below will also kill beneficial mites.)
Because of their near invisibility, it’s difficult to apply insecticidal soaps to suspected mite infestations. Home-made sprays using garlic, hot peppers, or citrus oils will not usually take down mites but may provide some deterrent. (Because they often arrive in the wind, russet-hemp mites aren’t easily deterred.)
Neem oil will repel and kill mites. It should be applied at first signs of damage.
Pyrethrum sprays have proven effective in killing mites but require complete coverage to ensure that none of the microscopic pests are overlooked. Tailor applications to the lifecycle of the mite. Spraying once a week — once every five days in warm conditions — for three to four weeks should cover adults, emerging nymphs, and eggs.
No matter which method you’re using, close inspection of plants during treatment is crucial. Use a lens of 14X magnification or larger to see mites gathered at the center of curled leaves, at stem junctures, or in flowers. Don’t wait to see how effective one treatment is before continuing or using another. Once infestations spread up plants, it’s almost impossible to save the plant.
Don’t hesitate to discard entire plants, even if they’re not entirely affected. While you’re treating affected plants, the mites are hurriedly spreading to others.
Prevent spreading mites. Discard infested plants in plastic bags and dispose of them in sealed garbage containers.
Indoor Plants:
Do not bring uninspected plants or plants from any grower who’s had previous problems with mites into your grow space. This is especially important, whether taking clones or tomato starts from friends and professionals. Know your grower.
Keep a clean grow space. Don’t introduce unnecessary tools used outside or suspect soil or growing mediums.
Periodic releases of spider mite predators in a greenhouse can help keep pests at bay.
At the first sign of mites, reduce their breeding environment by adjusting room temperatures and moisture content as much as possible. This will slow the breeding cycle, buying you time to inspect and treat plants before the mites next generation is spawned.
Azamax will discourage mites from feeding and slow their breeding cycle, especially helpful if you’re moving towards harvest.
Neem oil and pyrethrum/ canola oil sprays, used as above, will knock down mite infestations with repeated use.
If your grow space has been infected, clean it from top to bottom. Scrub benches and other equipment with a mild bleach solution (1:10 bleach-to-water solution is said to be safe for cleaning according to the Centers For Disease Control), sterilize all hydroponic equipment, throw away any soil that can’t be sanitized, and leave nothing that was in the space during the infestation unscrubbed. The invisible eggs of this troublesome pest can survive in tiny, unseen places.
Unlike spider mites, these voracious plant pests leave no webbing or other secretions when present. Visible damage to the plant is the first indication of its presence a damage often mistaken for mineral and other nutritional deficits.
Seen through a lens, russet-hemp mites are tapered, translucent, wedge-shaped cylinders that take on a yellow tint, especially in groups. Unlike most varieties of mites, eriophyid, including russet mites, have only two pairs of legs.
Like spider mites and others, they are increasing their range and are now common in places not previously seen. Because of their size, they’re effectively dispersed by wind.
Crop specific, they tend to multiply in areas of intensive growing, like the tomato raising regions of Florida, and also do quite well indoors where warm, moist environments facilitate rapid reproduction. In the past decade, they have spread from growers in California north into Oregon.
Lifecycle
Females over winter just inside stems of the plants they infest or where twigs are joined to stems. Translucent eggs, nearly adult in size, are laid in spring and go through two nymph stages, both little different than the adult. The mites produce multiple, over-lapping generations through the course of a season, maturing in as little as eight days in warm, humid conditions.
Damage
Mites are sap suckers working at the cellular level. Damage typically appears first at the bottom of plants and moves upward as they feed. Lower leaves begin to yellow and curl, the leaf droops and the stem discolors. As the plant’s nourishment is sucked away, less vigorous green growth and flowering is observed. The tiny mites, in increasing numbers, spread to all parts of the plant. The mites seem particularly attracted to flower resins and will congregate in flowers and blossoms where they can effectively hide and do great damage. If left unchecked, the mites will eventually sap the entire plant.
Russet Mite Control
The best controls for both indoor and outdoor growers are preventive methods. Make sure you don’t introduce mites into your grow space by bringing in infected plants or contaminated potting soil that may carry female mites or eggs. Regular and close scrutiny of your plants, especially around the leaves nearest the soil line if outdoors, or anywhere a plant is flowering, is crucial to early detection. What might appear to be an iron or magnesium deficiency may well be an infestation of russet mites. If in doubt, treat for mites as well as adjusting nutrient solutions or amending soil. Finding and removing mites in their first generation, a period that can be short as a week under the right conditions, can short-circuit a cascade of generations once the mites begin laying eggs.
Many of the precautions and treatments used on spider mites also apply to this pest. Inspection of plants is crucial during treatment. Look to see if damage has stopped. Remove all damaged leaves, stems, and even entire plants and dispose in a way that won’t spread the tiny creatures or its eggs.
Outdoor Plants:
Russet mites are most frequently found in outdoor container plantings. This suggests that they’re introduced both in potting soils and plants brought into the garden. Use only dependable, high-quality potting medium and plants from a nursery you trust. Don’t be afraid to ask if mites have been a problem. Even if they’ve been dealt with and the plant shows no signs of damage, eggs may still exist in the soil.
Introducing beneficial nematodes just as soil temperatures begin to warm and ahead of planting can help destroy eggs that are in the soil and nymphs once they hatch. Apply a second round of vermiculite-carried nematodes if damage to lowest leaves is spotted.
Avoid over-fertilizing plants. Mites are attracted to vigorous green growth that comes of too much nitrogen.
Periodic releases of predatory mites can blunt infestations, giving you time to deal with them. (Yes, the same spray mentioned below will also kill beneficial mites.)
Because of their near invisibility, it’s difficult to apply insecticidal soaps to suspected mite infestations. Home-made sprays using garlic, hot peppers, or citrus oils will not usually take down mites but may provide some deterrent. (Because they often arrive in the wind, russet-hemp mites aren’t easily deterred.)
Neem oil will repel and kill mites. It should be applied at first signs of damage.
Pyrethrum sprays have proven effective in killing mites but require complete coverage to ensure that none of the microscopic pests are overlooked. Tailor applications to the lifecycle of the mite. Spraying once a week — once every five days in warm conditions — for three to four weeks should cover adults, emerging nymphs, and eggs.
No matter which method you’re using, close inspection of plants during treatment is crucial. Use a lens of 14X magnification or larger to see mites gathered at the center of curled leaves, at stem junctures, or in flowers. Don’t wait to see how effective one treatment is before continuing or using another. Once infestations spread up plants, it’s almost impossible to save the plant.
Don’t hesitate to discard entire plants, even if they’re not entirely affected. While you’re treating affected plants, the mites are hurriedly spreading to others.
Prevent spreading mites. Discard infested plants in plastic bags and dispose of them in sealed garbage containers.
Indoor Plants:
Do not bring uninspected plants or plants from any grower who’s had previous problems with mites into your grow space. This is especially important, whether taking clones or tomato starts from friends and professionals. Know your grower.
Keep a clean grow space. Don’t introduce unnecessary tools used outside or suspect soil or growing mediums.
Periodic releases of spider mite predators in a greenhouse can help keep pests at bay.
At the first sign of mites, reduce their breeding environment by adjusting room temperatures and moisture content as much as possible. This will slow the breeding cycle, buying you time to inspect and treat plants before the mites next generation is spawned.
Azamax will discourage mites from feeding and slow their breeding cycle, especially helpful if you’re moving towards harvest.
Neem oil and pyrethrum/ canola oil sprays, used as above, will knock down mite infestations with repeated use.
If your grow space has been infected, clean it from top to bottom. Scrub benches and other equipment with a mild bleach solution (1:10 bleach-to-water solution is said to be safe for cleaning according to the Centers For Disease Control), sterilize all hydroponic equipment, throw away any soil that can’t be sanitized, and leave nothing that was in the space during the infestation unscrubbed. The invisible eggs of this troublesome pest can survive in tiny, unseen places.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Found on tomato and potato plants, late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and is common throughout the United States. True to its name, the disease occurs later in the growing season with symptoms often not appearing until after blossom.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
Late blight first appears on the lower, older leaves as water-soaked, gray-green spots. As the disease matures, these spots darken and a white fungal growth forms on the undersides. Eventually the entire plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Unlike other fungal diseases, this plant problem does not overwinter in the soil or on garden trash. Instead the spores are introduced by infected tubers, transplants or seeds. Wind will also carry the disease from nearby gardens. Warm temperatures (70-80˚F) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread.
Note: Late Blight was responsible for the Irish potato famine (1845-1849).
Treatment
Plant resistant cultivars when available.
Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest (see Fall Garden Cleanup).
If disease symptoms are observed, treat plants with one of the following fungicides:
Apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
Used as a foliar spray, Organocide® Plant Doctor will work its way through the entire plant to prevent fungal problems from occurring and attack existing many problems. Mix 2 tsp/ gallon of water and spray at transplant or when direct seeded crops are at 2-4 true leaf, then at 1-2 week intervals as required to control disease.
Safely treat fungal problems with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis and is approved for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Monterey® All Natural Disease Control is a ready-to-use blend of naturally occurring ingredients that control most plant foliar diseases. All stages of the disease is controlled, but applying before infestation gives the best results.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Commonly found throughout the United States, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen that attacks potato, tomato, eggplant and pepper plants. Disease fungi (Fusarium oxysporum) enter through the roots and interfere with the water conducting vessels of the plant. As the infection spreads up into the stems and leaves it restricts water flow causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Common on tomato and potato plants, early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani and occurs throughout the United States. Symptoms first appear on the lower, older leaves as small brown spots with concentric rings that form a “bull’s eye” pattern. As the disease matures, it spreads outward on the leaf surface causing it to turn yellow, wither and die. Eventually the stem, fruit and upper portion of the plant will become infected. Crops can be severely damaged.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
Early blight overwinters on infected plant tissue and is spread by splashing rain, irrigation, insects and garden tools. The disease is also carried on tomato seeds and in potato tubers. In spite of its name, early blight can occur any time throughout the growing season. High temperatures (80-85˚F.) and wet, humid conditions promote its rapid spread. In many cases, poorly nourished or stressed plants are attacked.
Treatment
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and reduce fungal problems.
Make sure to disinfect your pruning shears (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Keep the soil under plants clean and free of garden debris. Add a layer of organic compost to prevent the spores from splashing back up onto vegetation.
Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
For best control, apply copper-based fungicides early, two weeks before disease normally appears or when weather forecasts predict a long period of wet weather. Alternatively, begin treatment when disease first appears, and repeat every 7-10 days for as long as needed.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
SERENADE Garden is a broad spectrum, preventative bio-fungicide recommended for the control or suppression of many important plant diseases. For best results, treat prior to foliar disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat at 7-day intervals or as needed.
Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the following year.
Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A serious disorder of tomato, pepper, cucumber and eggplant, blossom end rot is an environmental problem (not fungal) most often caused by uneven watering or by calcium deficiency. (These can be related; uneven watering can interfere with the uptake of calcium.) This common garden “disease” is often brought on by rapid growth from too much fertilizer, high salt levels or drought.
Blossom end rot symptoms occur on both green and ripe fruits and is identified by water-soaked areas that gradually widen and mature into sunken, brown, leathery spots on the bottom end. In many cases, secondary pathogens, which appear as a black, fuzzy-like growth, attack the affected area and cause complete rotting of the fruit. Blossom end rot will not spread from plant to plant.
Treatment
Since this plant problem is physiological in nature, fungicides will not work as a control measure. We recommend the following:
Choose resistant vegetable varieties whenever possible.
Prevent problems by keeping soil evenly moist and by foliar spraying plants with a kelp or calcium solution.
Adding high levels of calcium — bone meal, oyster shell or gypsum — to the soil at planting time usually prevents this problem from developing.
A layer of mulch (straw, compost, grass ) will help conserve soil moisture during the hot, dry days of July and August.
Foliar applications of Liquid Calcium 5% (1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water) can be used to correct or prevent deficiencies of this essential nutrient. For best results, combine with a natural surfactant to increase adhesion and spray leaves to the point of run-off.
Mulching plants will help conserve moisture and provide a more uniform water supply.
Avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers which accelerate vegetative growth and reduce the uptake of calcium by plants. A large selection of balanced organic fertilizers are available at Planet Natural.
Blossom end rot symptoms occur on both green and ripe fruits and is identified by water-soaked areas that gradually widen and mature into sunken, brown, leathery spots on the bottom end. In many cases, secondary pathogens, which appear as a black, fuzzy-like growth, attack the affected area and cause complete rotting of the fruit. Blossom end rot will not spread from plant to plant.
Treatment
Since this plant problem is physiological in nature, fungicides will not work as a control measure. We recommend the following:
Choose resistant vegetable varieties whenever possible.
Prevent problems by keeping soil evenly moist and by foliar spraying plants with a kelp or calcium solution.
Adding high levels of calcium — bone meal, oyster shell or gypsum — to the soil at planting time usually prevents this problem from developing.
A layer of mulch (straw, compost, grass ) will help conserve soil moisture during the hot, dry days of July and August.
Foliar applications of Liquid Calcium 5% (1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water) can be used to correct or prevent deficiencies of this essential nutrient. For best results, combine with a natural surfactant to increase adhesion and spray leaves to the point of run-off.
Mulching plants will help conserve moisture and provide a more uniform water supply.
Avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers which accelerate vegetative growth and reduce the uptake of calcium by plants. A large selection of balanced organic fertilizers are available at Planet Natural.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common throughout North America, the tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is one of the most destructive pests of tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant and tobacco plants. They consume entire leaves, small stems, and sometimes chew pieces from fruit. Despite their large size, hornworms are often difficult to spot because of their protective coloring. Growers will often find large areas where feeding has occurred before they see this garden pest. Damage is most often noticed in midsummer and continues throughout the remainder of the growing season.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
Likely to be the largest caterpillars you’ll see in the vegetable garden, tomato hornworms (3-4 inches long), are green with seven diagonal white strips and a black or red horn projecting from the rear. Adults are large (4-5 inch wingspan), heavy-bodied moths. They are gray or brown in color with white zigzags on the rear wings and orange or brownish spots on the body. Also called a sphinx or hawk moth, they fly quickly and are able to hover like a hummingbird.
Tip: To find the larvae hidden among plants, look for black droppings (frass) on the leaves and ground and spray the foliage with water. The caterpillars will thrash about and give away their hiding spots.
Life Cycle
Overwintering occurs in the soil as dark brown pupae. Adult moths emerge in late spring, mate and deposit spherical green eggs on the underside of leaves. In 5 days hatching begins and the larva passes through five or six stages before reaching full growth in 3-4 weeks. These larvae eventually burrow into the soil where they transform into the pupal stage. Adults develop in 2-4 weeks and work their way to the soil surface, where they mate and begin laying eggs for the next generation of hornworms. There are two generations per year.
Tomato Hornworm Control
Because they are so large hornworms are most often controlled in home gardens by handpicking. Once removed from the plant, they can be destroyed by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.
Beneficial insects including lacewings, braconoid and trichogramma wasps and ladybugs attack the eggs. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Both Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki) and Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) are very effective, especially on the young caterpillars (larvae).
If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting organic insecticide. For best results, apply to the undersides of leaves and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.
Roto-tilling after harvest destroys overwintering pupae in the soil. This is especially effective since pupae are large and not buried very deeply in the soil. Results have shown that greater than 90% mortality is caused by normal garden tilling.
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