文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pisum sativum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peas are a popular, tasty, cool-season crop. Here’s how to grow peas in your garden!
There are three varieties of peas that will suit your garden and cooking needs:
Pisum savitum, which includes both types of garden peas: sweet peas (inedible pods) and snow peas (edible flat pods with small peas inside).
Pisum macrocarpon, snap peas (edible pods with full-size peas).
Pea plants are easy to grow, but have a very limited growing season. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!
To get the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds in the fall, add manure to the soil, and mulch well.
As with other legumes, pea roots will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
Peas will appreciate a good sprinkling of wood ashes to the soil before planting.
Sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F.
Plant 1 inch deep (deeper if soil is dry) and 2 inches apart.
Get them in the ground while the soil is still cool, but do not have them sit too long in wet soil. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. For soil that stays wet longer, invest in raised garden beds.
A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again.
Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70 degrees F.
CARE
Make sure that you have well-drained, humus-rich soil.
Poke in any seeds that wash out. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.)
Be sure, too, that you don’t fertilize the soil too much. Peas are especially sensitive to too much nitrogen, but they may like a little bonemeal, for the phosphorus content.
Though adding compost or manure to the soil won’t hurt, peas don’t need heavy doses of fertilizer. They like phosphorus and potassium.
Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
Do not hoe around plants to avoid disturbing fragile roots.
It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Woodchucks
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peas are a popular, tasty, cool-season crop. Here’s how to grow peas in your garden!
There are three varieties of peas that will suit your garden and cooking needs:
Pisum savitum, which includes both types of garden peas: sweet peas (inedible pods) and snow peas (edible flat pods with small peas inside).
Pisum macrocarpon, snap peas (edible pods with full-size peas).
Pea plants are easy to grow, but have a very limited growing season. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!
To get the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds in the fall, add manure to the soil, and mulch well.
As with other legumes, pea roots will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
Peas will appreciate a good sprinkling of wood ashes to the soil before planting.
Sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F.
Plant 1 inch deep (deeper if soil is dry) and 2 inches apart.
Get them in the ground while the soil is still cool, but do not have them sit too long in wet soil. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. For soil that stays wet longer, invest in raised garden beds.
A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again.
Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70 degrees F.
CARE
Make sure that you have well-drained, humus-rich soil.
Poke in any seeds that wash out. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.)
Be sure, too, that you don’t fertilize the soil too much. Peas are especially sensitive to too much nitrogen, but they may like a little bonemeal, for the phosphorus content.
Though adding compost or manure to the soil won’t hurt, peas don’t need heavy doses of fertilizer. They like phosphorus and potassium.
Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
Do not hoe around plants to avoid disturbing fragile roots.
It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Woodchucks
Fusarium Wilt
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pastinaca sativa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Parsnips, popular with ancient Greeks and Romans, were brought over to the Americas with the first colonists. Although parsnips are biennials, they are usually grown as an annual vegetable. Parsnips are a hardy, cool-season crop that is best harvested after a hard frost. Parsnips are not only tasty in soups and stews, but can also be enjoyed by themselves.
PLANTING
Always sow fresh seed.
Parsnips need a long growing season, so sow as soon as the soil is workable.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-15 inches and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Sow 2 seeds per inch ½ an inch deep
Seedlings will emerge in 2-3 weeks
CARE
Thin the seedlings to stand 3-6 inches apart.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Always keep the beds free of weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Leaf Miners
Carrot Rust Flies
Parsnip Canker (all cultivars but 'Tender and True' are resistant to this)
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Parsnips, popular with ancient Greeks and Romans, were brought over to the Americas with the first colonists. Although parsnips are biennials, they are usually grown as an annual vegetable. Parsnips are a hardy, cool-season crop that is best harvested after a hard frost. Parsnips are not only tasty in soups and stews, but can also be enjoyed by themselves.
PLANTING
Always sow fresh seed.
Parsnips need a long growing season, so sow as soon as the soil is workable.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12-15 inches and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Sow 2 seeds per inch ½ an inch deep
Seedlings will emerge in 2-3 weeks
CARE
Thin the seedlings to stand 3-6 inches apart.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Always keep the beds free of weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Leaf Miners
Carrot Rust Flies
Parsnip Canker (all cultivars but 'Tender and True' are resistant to this)
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium cepa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Abelmoschus esculentus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. Here’s how to grow okra plants in your own garden!
Okra is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
PLANTING
You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
CARE
Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Corn earworms
Stinkbugs
Fusarium wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. Here’s how to grow okra plants in your own garden!
Okra is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
PLANTING
You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
CARE
Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Corn earworms
Stinkbugs
Fusarium wilt
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lactuca sativa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Garden lettuce is far superior—in both taste and vitamin A content—to supermarket brands. Here’s how grow this cool-season crop—best planted in the spring and fall.
Lettuce grows well in the spring and fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45° F and 65° F are ideal.
Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings.
PLANTING
Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination.
Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost.
Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
Water thoroughly at time of transplant.
Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.
If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out these tips for growing lettuce indoors.
CARE
You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer.
To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10° F (6° C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden.
Make sure soil remains moist but is well drained.
An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months.
Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate.
Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow.
Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Earwigs
Cutworms
White Mold
Woodchucks
Rabbits
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Garden lettuce is far superior—in both taste and vitamin A content—to supermarket brands. Here’s how grow this cool-season crop—best planted in the spring and fall.
Lettuce grows well in the spring and fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45° F and 65° F are ideal.
Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings.
PLANTING
Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination.
Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost.
Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
Water thoroughly at time of transplant.
Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.
If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out these tips for growing lettuce indoors.
CARE
You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer.
To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10° F (6° C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden.
Make sure soil remains moist but is well drained.
An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months.
Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate.
Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow.
Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Earwigs
Cutworms
White Mold
Woodchucks
Rabbits
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea acephala
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
BLOOM TIME: Varies
Kale is a hardy, cool-season green that is part of the cabbage family. It grows best in the spring and fall and can tolerate fall frosts. Here’s how to grow kale in your garden.
Kale can be used in salads or simply as a garnish. Kale has a number of health benefits, as it is rich in minerals and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
You can plant kale at any time, from early spring to early summer. If you plant kale late in the summer, you can harvest it from fall until the ground freezes in winter.
Mix 1-½ cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 25 feet of row into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil.
Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep into well-drained, light soil.
After about 2 weeks, thin the seedlings so that they are spaced 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Water the plants regularly, but be sure not to overwater them.
Mulch the soil heavily after the first hard freeze; the plants may continue to produce leaves throughout the winter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbageworms
Flea beetles
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
BLOOM TIME: Varies
Kale is a hardy, cool-season green that is part of the cabbage family. It grows best in the spring and fall and can tolerate fall frosts. Here’s how to grow kale in your garden.
Kale can be used in salads or simply as a garnish. Kale has a number of health benefits, as it is rich in minerals and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
You can plant kale at any time, from early spring to early summer. If you plant kale late in the summer, you can harvest it from fall until the ground freezes in winter.
Mix 1-½ cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 25 feet of row into the top 3 to 4 inches of soil.
Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep into well-drained, light soil.
After about 2 weeks, thin the seedlings so that they are spaced 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Water the plants regularly, but be sure not to overwater them.
Mulch the soil heavily after the first hard freeze; the plants may continue to produce leaves throughout the winter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbageworms
Flea beetles
Aphids
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium sativum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum melongena
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Given their tropical and subtropical heritage, eggplants do require relatively high temperatures, similar to tomatoes and peppers (which are also in the nightshade family of vegetables). Like tomatoes, eggplants grow hanging from the vines of a plant that grows several feet in height.
Because they need warm soil, most gardeners either buy them as transplants or start them indoors about two months in advance. Raised plans enriched with composted manure are an ideal growing place for eggplants because the soil warms more quickly.
Though eggplants are usually a beautiful dark purple color, their color can vary, and so can the size and shape—from small- to large-fruited. Eggplants are harvested in mid- to late-summer and are a favorite grilling vegetable!
PLANTING
Start plants indoors in flats or peat pots 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting.
Plant outdoors in a very sunny spot with well-draining, fertile soil (with a pH from 6.3 to 6.8).
Mix 1 inch or so of well-rotted manure or a general fertilizer such as 5-10-5 throughout the planting bed about a week before planting. (Apply 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet.)
Use a covering of black plastic mulch to warm heavy clay soils before setting out transplants.
If transplanting, set 3- to 4-inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds.
Mix 1 tablespoon of 5-10-5 or a shovelful of rotted manure or good compost with the soil in the bottom of each planting hole and cover with more soil.
If you’re growing eggplant in pots, use a dark-colored container. Each plant needs five-gallon (or, larger) pots and should be placed in full sun and outdoors so it can be pollinated. Use a premium potting mix to avoid disease.
Stake the plants right away (just an inch or two from the plant) to provide support as they climb and to avoid disturbing the soil later.
If you live in a cold climate, consider using row covers to keep the eggplants warm and sheltered. Open the ends of the row covers on warm days so that the bees may pollinate.
After planting, water well. Add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
CARE
Eggplant will fall over once loaded with fruit. Be sure to stake plants 24 inches tall or use a cage to keep the plants upright.
If growing eggplant in containers, stake the stems before the fruit forms.
Water well without letting the soil get soggy. Consistent watering is best, and a soaker hose or drip system at ground level is ideal.
Apply a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.
For bigger fruits, restrict to five or six per plant.
Pinch out the terminal growing points for a bushier plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles are probably the most common pest, but a healthy eggplant should be able to withstand damage from their tiny holes.
Verticillium wilt and Powdery Mildew can affect eggplant.
Tomato Hornworms are sometimes an issue.
Eggplant fruit may not ripen properly due to cold temperatures, pest damage, or infertile soils.
Strangely-shaped eggplant are the result of inconsistent watering or low moisture.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Given their tropical and subtropical heritage, eggplants do require relatively high temperatures, similar to tomatoes and peppers (which are also in the nightshade family of vegetables). Like tomatoes, eggplants grow hanging from the vines of a plant that grows several feet in height.
Because they need warm soil, most gardeners either buy them as transplants or start them indoors about two months in advance. Raised plans enriched with composted manure are an ideal growing place for eggplants because the soil warms more quickly.
Though eggplants are usually a beautiful dark purple color, their color can vary, and so can the size and shape—from small- to large-fruited. Eggplants are harvested in mid- to late-summer and are a favorite grilling vegetable!
PLANTING
Start plants indoors in flats or peat pots 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting.
Plant outdoors in a very sunny spot with well-draining, fertile soil (with a pH from 6.3 to 6.8).
Mix 1 inch or so of well-rotted manure or a general fertilizer such as 5-10-5 throughout the planting bed about a week before planting. (Apply 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet.)
Use a covering of black plastic mulch to warm heavy clay soils before setting out transplants.
If transplanting, set 3- to 4-inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds.
Mix 1 tablespoon of 5-10-5 or a shovelful of rotted manure or good compost with the soil in the bottom of each planting hole and cover with more soil.
If you’re growing eggplant in pots, use a dark-colored container. Each plant needs five-gallon (or, larger) pots and should be placed in full sun and outdoors so it can be pollinated. Use a premium potting mix to avoid disease.
Stake the plants right away (just an inch or two from the plant) to provide support as they climb and to avoid disturbing the soil later.
If you live in a cold climate, consider using row covers to keep the eggplants warm and sheltered. Open the ends of the row covers on warm days so that the bees may pollinate.
After planting, water well. Add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
CARE
Eggplant will fall over once loaded with fruit. Be sure to stake plants 24 inches tall or use a cage to keep the plants upright.
If growing eggplant in containers, stake the stems before the fruit forms.
Water well without letting the soil get soggy. Consistent watering is best, and a soaker hose or drip system at ground level is ideal.
Apply a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.
For bigger fruits, restrict to five or six per plant.
Pinch out the terminal growing points for a bushier plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles are probably the most common pest, but a healthy eggplant should be able to withstand damage from their tiny holes.
Verticillium wilt and Powdery Mildew can affect eggplant.
Tomato Hornworms are sometimes an issue.
Eggplant fruit may not ripen properly due to cold temperatures, pest damage, or infertile soils.
Strangely-shaped eggplant are the result of inconsistent watering or low moisture.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis Sativus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Zea mays
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest. If you miss the optimal harvest time, corn will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.
PLANTING
Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let over winter in the soil.
Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended.
Plant seeds outdoors two weeks after the last spring frost date.
Make sure soil temperature is above 60 degrees F for successful germination. (Up to 65 for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover if necessary. Plant seeds through holes.
Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Rows 30 to 36 inches apart.
For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Don’t plant two long rows, rather, plant corn blocks of at least four rows.
You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped.
Water well at planting time.
CARE
When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart.
Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.
Soil must be well drained and able to keep consistent moisture.
In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq yard. Mulch helps reduce evaporation.
PESTS/DISEASES
Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests:
Raccoons
Spotted Cucumber Beetles
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest. If you miss the optimal harvest time, corn will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.
PLANTING
Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let over winter in the soil.
Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended.
Plant seeds outdoors two weeks after the last spring frost date.
Make sure soil temperature is above 60 degrees F for successful germination. (Up to 65 for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover if necessary. Plant seeds through holes.
Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4 to 6 inches apart. Rows 30 to 36 inches apart.
For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Don’t plant two long rows, rather, plant corn blocks of at least four rows.
You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped.
Water well at planting time.
CARE
When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart.
Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.
Soil must be well drained and able to keep consistent moisture.
In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq yard. Mulch helps reduce evaporation.
PESTS/DISEASES
Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests:
Raccoons
Spotted Cucumber Beetles
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Beta vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Chard is a member of the beet family that does well in both cool and warm temperatures. It can be cooked or used raw in salads and is high in vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
Plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month.
For a fall harvest, plant chard seeds again about 40 days before the first fall frost date.
Before planting, mix 1 cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil for every 20 feet of single row.
Plant the seeds ½ to ¾ of inch deep in well-drained, rich, light soil. Space the seeds about 18 inches apart in single rows or 10 to 18 inches apart in wide rows. Sow eight to ten seeds per foot of row.
CARE
When the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them out so that they are 4 to 6 inches apart or 9 to 12 inches apart if the plants are larger.
Water the plants evenly to help them grow better. Water often during dry spells in the summer. You can also mulch the plants to help conserve moisture.
For the best quality, cut the plants back when they are about 1 foot tall. If the chard plants become overgrown, they lose their flavor.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf minor
Slugs
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Chard is a member of the beet family that does well in both cool and warm temperatures. It can be cooked or used raw in salads and is high in vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
Plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month.
For a fall harvest, plant chard seeds again about 40 days before the first fall frost date.
Before planting, mix 1 cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil for every 20 feet of single row.
Plant the seeds ½ to ¾ of inch deep in well-drained, rich, light soil. Space the seeds about 18 inches apart in single rows or 10 to 18 inches apart in wide rows. Sow eight to ten seeds per foot of row.
CARE
When the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them out so that they are 4 to 6 inches apart or 9 to 12 inches apart if the plants are larger.
Water the plants evenly to help them grow better. Water often during dry spells in the summer. You can also mulch the plants to help conserve moisture.
For the best quality, cut the plants back when they are about 1 foot tall. If the chard plants become overgrown, they lose their flavor.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf minor
Slugs
Aphids
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Apium graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden.
Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!
PLANTING
Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.)
For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period.
The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time.
Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day.
Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high.
Mulch and water directly after planting.
CARE
Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small.
Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients.
Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cutworms
Aphids
Whiteflies
Bolting
Mosaic Virus
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden.
Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!
PLANTING
Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.)
For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period.
The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time.
Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day.
Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high.
Mulch and water directly after planting.
CARE
Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small.
Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients.
Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cutworms
Aphids
Whiteflies
Bolting
Mosaic Virus
Fusarium Wilt
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: White
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Cauliflower is a cool-season crop and a descendant of the common cabbage. It is more difficult to grow than its relatives because it does not tolerate the heat or cold as well. For this reason, cauliflower is usually grown commercially.
If you plant to attempt growing cauliflower in the home garden, it requires consistently cool temperatures with temperatures in the 60s. Otherwise, it may prematurely “button”—form small, button-size heads—rather than forming a single, large, white head.
PLANTING
Select a site with at least 6 hours of full sun.
Soil needs to be very rich in organic matter; add composted mature to the soil before planting. Fertile soil holds in moisture to prevent heads from “buttoning.”
Test your soil! (Get a comprehensive soil test through your local cooperative extension office.) The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8.
It is best to start cauliflower from transplants rather than seeds. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before the average frost date in the spring, no sooner and not much later. (See local frost dates.)
Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 30 inches between rows. Use starter fertilizer when transplanting.
Plant fall cauliflower about the same time as fall cabbage. This is usually 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost, but after the daytime temperature is below 75 degrees F.
If you really want to try starting cauliflower from seeds, start the seeds 4 to 5 weeks before the plants are needed. Plant the seeds in rows 3 to 6 inches apart and up to half an inch deep. Do not forget to water the seeds during their germination and growth. Once they become seedlings, transplant them to their permanent place in the garden.
In early spring, be ready to cover your plants with old milk jugs for protection if needed. For fall crops, shade them if they need protection from the heat.
Add mulch to conserve moisture.
CARE
Make sure that the plants have uninterrupted growth. Any interruption can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin the edible part completely.
Cauliflower requires consistent soil moisture. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week; with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplemental watering.
For best growth, side-dress the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer.
Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and that it takes time for the head to fully form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient!
When the curd (the white head) is about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, tie the outer leaves together over the head with a rubber band, tape, or twine. This is called blanching, and it protects the head from the sun and helps you get that pretty white color.
The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbageworm: Nectar from dwarf zinnias lures in ladybugs and other predators that help to protect cauliflower from cabbageworms.
Cabbage root maggots
Aphids
Harlequin bugs
Clubroot
Black rot
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: White
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Cauliflower is a cool-season crop and a descendant of the common cabbage. It is more difficult to grow than its relatives because it does not tolerate the heat or cold as well. For this reason, cauliflower is usually grown commercially.
If you plant to attempt growing cauliflower in the home garden, it requires consistently cool temperatures with temperatures in the 60s. Otherwise, it may prematurely “button”—form small, button-size heads—rather than forming a single, large, white head.
PLANTING
Select a site with at least 6 hours of full sun.
Soil needs to be very rich in organic matter; add composted mature to the soil before planting. Fertile soil holds in moisture to prevent heads from “buttoning.”
Test your soil! (Get a comprehensive soil test through your local cooperative extension office.) The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8.
It is best to start cauliflower from transplants rather than seeds. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before the average frost date in the spring, no sooner and not much later. (See local frost dates.)
Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 30 inches between rows. Use starter fertilizer when transplanting.
Plant fall cauliflower about the same time as fall cabbage. This is usually 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost, but after the daytime temperature is below 75 degrees F.
If you really want to try starting cauliflower from seeds, start the seeds 4 to 5 weeks before the plants are needed. Plant the seeds in rows 3 to 6 inches apart and up to half an inch deep. Do not forget to water the seeds during their germination and growth. Once they become seedlings, transplant them to their permanent place in the garden.
In early spring, be ready to cover your plants with old milk jugs for protection if needed. For fall crops, shade them if they need protection from the heat.
Add mulch to conserve moisture.
CARE
Make sure that the plants have uninterrupted growth. Any interruption can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin the edible part completely.
Cauliflower requires consistent soil moisture. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week; with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplemental watering.
For best growth, side-dress the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer.
Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and that it takes time for the head to fully form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient!
When the curd (the white head) is about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, tie the outer leaves together over the head with a rubber band, tape, or twine. This is called blanching, and it protects the head from the sun and helps you get that pretty white color.
The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cabbageworm: Nectar from dwarf zinnias lures in ladybugs and other predators that help to protect cauliflower from cabbageworms.
Cabbage root maggots
Aphids
Harlequin bugs
Clubroot
Black rot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Daucus carota
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea var. capitata
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Cabbage is a hardy, leafy vegetable full of vitamins. It can be difficult to grow; it only likes cool temperatures and it can be a magnet for some types of garden pests. By planning your growing season and providing diligent care, you may have two successful crops in one year, in both spring and fall. Many varieties are available to suit both your growing conditions and taste preferences.
PLANTING
Start cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost.
Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost.
Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Choose a cloudy afternoon.
Plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads.
Mulch thickly to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Practice crop rotation with cabbage year to year to avoid a buildup of soil borne diseases.
Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it’s best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes.
Cabbage can be grown near beans and cucumbers.
CARE
When transplants reach 5 inches tall, thin to make sure they are still the desired length apart. (The plants you remove can be transplanted elsewhere in your garden.)
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting.
Keep soil moist with mulch and water 2 inches per week.
PESTS/DISEASES
Imported Cabbageworms: Dill protects all members of the cabbage family by attracting beneficial wasps that kill cabbageworms and other pests.
Aphids
Cabbage Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
Splitting
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Cabbage is a hardy, leafy vegetable full of vitamins. It can be difficult to grow; it only likes cool temperatures and it can be a magnet for some types of garden pests. By planning your growing season and providing diligent care, you may have two successful crops in one year, in both spring and fall. Many varieties are available to suit both your growing conditions and taste preferences.
PLANTING
Start cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost.
Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost.
Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Choose a cloudy afternoon.
Plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads.
Mulch thickly to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Practice crop rotation with cabbage year to year to avoid a buildup of soil borne diseases.
Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it’s best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes.
Cabbage can be grown near beans and cucumbers.
CARE
When transplants reach 5 inches tall, thin to make sure they are still the desired length apart. (The plants you remove can be transplanted elsewhere in your garden.)
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting.
Keep soil moist with mulch and water 2 inches per week.
PESTS/DISEASES
Imported Cabbageworms: Dill protects all members of the cabbage family by attracting beneficial wasps that kill cabbageworms and other pests.
Aphids
Cabbage Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
Splitting
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