文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月11日
Peppers are a popular plant for the home vegetable garden. The three most common varieties of peppers are bell peppers, hot peppers and sweet peppers. Although peppers are relatively easy to grow, several factors can result in low fruit production. If you want to get your green pepper plants to produce more, be vigilant with their care.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Carrots are a root vegetable. This means that humans typically only eat the orange edible taproot--main plant root--and not the edible leafy greens that are above ground. Carrots are not part of the typical annual--one year--or perennial--many repetitive years--plant cycles. Carrots are actually classified as biennials, according to the World Carrot Museum.
What is a Biennial?
Wet Carrots in the dirt
credit: HandmadePictures/iStock/Getty Images
Biennials like carrots live for two growing seasons before the completion of their life cycle, according to the University of Illinois Extension. Biennial plants grow vegetatively--produce leaves--for the first season of life. After a period of dormancy--rest without growth--following the first season of growth biennials resume growth for a second season, flower, seed and die.
Germination
Carrot plants produce seeds during the second season of biennial growth. Pollen is produced and delivered to the stigma, according to the WCM. The plant then produces seed. Carrot seeds are exceptionally small: 2000 seeds can fit in a single teaspoon. Carrot seeds take 10-12 days to germinate and begin growth.
Growth
Carrots will grow leafy green shoots from the taproot. These shoots are where flowering happens during the second season of growth. Carrots are usually prime for harvesting within three months, states the WCM; however, carrots can and frequently are harvested early. Baby carrots are merely immature carrots, but baby-cut carrots are mature carrots shaved to baby size.
Dormancy
The period of carrot dormancy between seasons is typically winter in most areas the carrot is cultivated. Carrots growth is essentially complete when it enters dormancy, and flowering may not happen if dormant states experience interruption from unseasonably warm winters or late frosts. Carrots need a dormant state to prepare for the reproduction period.
Carrot Variants
Carrots are available in a variety of cultivars--varieties human-cultivated for different traits--that produce different shapes and colors of carrots. Some carrots--such as Thumbelinas--are very short and some--such as White Fodder--are not orange in color, according to the WCM. Many colors and shapes of carrot cultivars are available to discernible growers seeking particular carrot results.
What is a Biennial?
Wet Carrots in the dirt
credit: HandmadePictures/iStock/Getty Images
Biennials like carrots live for two growing seasons before the completion of their life cycle, according to the University of Illinois Extension. Biennial plants grow vegetatively--produce leaves--for the first season of life. After a period of dormancy--rest without growth--following the first season of growth biennials resume growth for a second season, flower, seed and die.
Germination
Carrot plants produce seeds during the second season of biennial growth. Pollen is produced and delivered to the stigma, according to the WCM. The plant then produces seed. Carrot seeds are exceptionally small: 2000 seeds can fit in a single teaspoon. Carrot seeds take 10-12 days to germinate and begin growth.
Growth
Carrots will grow leafy green shoots from the taproot. These shoots are where flowering happens during the second season of growth. Carrots are usually prime for harvesting within three months, states the WCM; however, carrots can and frequently are harvested early. Baby carrots are merely immature carrots, but baby-cut carrots are mature carrots shaved to baby size.
Dormancy
The period of carrot dormancy between seasons is typically winter in most areas the carrot is cultivated. Carrots growth is essentially complete when it enters dormancy, and flowering may not happen if dormant states experience interruption from unseasonably warm winters or late frosts. Carrots need a dormant state to prepare for the reproduction period.
Carrot Variants
Carrots are available in a variety of cultivars--varieties human-cultivated for different traits--that produce different shapes and colors of carrots. Some carrots--such as Thumbelinas--are very short and some--such as White Fodder--are not orange in color, according to the WCM. Many colors and shapes of carrot cultivars are available to discernible growers seeking particular carrot results.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Okra, also known as gumbo, is a warm-weather vegetable that thrives in the long, hot summers of the southern United States. Although okra loves hot weather, it can successfully be grown in cooler Northern climates as well. Plant okra seeds directly in your garden seven to 10 days after the last expected frost in your area, as the seeds won't grow in cold weather. Okra will be ready to harvest approximately 60 days after planting.
Step 1
Spade the soil in a sunny area in your garden. Work the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches, then work in an all-purpose granular fertilizer with a ratio such as 10-10-10. Apply 1 to 2 lbs. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden space.
Step 2
Make shallow rows with the corner of your hoe. Allow 3 feet between each row. Plant the okra seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in the rows, then cover the seeds with 1 inch of soil. Water lightly with a hose and spray attachment.
Step 3
Thin the okra seedlings when the plants are 2 to 4 inches tall. Allow 12 to 18 inches between each plant.
Step 4
Water okra deeply enough to saturate the soil once every seven to 10 days during extended hot, dry periods. Otherwise, okra requires no irrigation.
Step 5
Harvest okra with kitchen shears or a sharp knife when the pods are 2 to 4 inches long. Okra ripens quickly in late summer so check the plants every two to three days. Handle the pods gently as okra is tender and bruises easily. Pick regularly, as the plant will go to seed and won't continue to produce if the pods are allowed to remain on the plant.
Step 1
Spade the soil in a sunny area in your garden. Work the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches, then work in an all-purpose granular fertilizer with a ratio such as 10-10-10. Apply 1 to 2 lbs. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden space.
Step 2
Make shallow rows with the corner of your hoe. Allow 3 feet between each row. Plant the okra seeds 4 to 6 inches apart in the rows, then cover the seeds with 1 inch of soil. Water lightly with a hose and spray attachment.
Step 3
Thin the okra seedlings when the plants are 2 to 4 inches tall. Allow 12 to 18 inches between each plant.
Step 4
Water okra deeply enough to saturate the soil once every seven to 10 days during extended hot, dry periods. Otherwise, okra requires no irrigation.
Step 5
Harvest okra with kitchen shears or a sharp knife when the pods are 2 to 4 inches long. Okra ripens quickly in late summer so check the plants every two to three days. Handle the pods gently as okra is tender and bruises easily. Pick regularly, as the plant will go to seed and won't continue to produce if the pods are allowed to remain on the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Green beans are a popular vegetable for the home garden. They grow quickly and require only sun and water. Pole varieties grow between 5 and 10 feet high, according to Cornell University, and require staking. Bush beans are compact and need no support.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
Time Frame
Bean seeds germinate within 8 to 10 days under optimal conditions. They emerge as a tiny hooked stem with one single lobe and perhaps a cracked seed coat. Within a few days, the first real leaves emerge. Green beans are harvested within 60 to 75 days, depending on the variety. Dried bean varieties may take as long as three or four months to mature, according to Purdue University.
Considerations
Bean seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They are slow to germinate when soil temperatures are below 60 F. They are not at all frost hardy, and are planted outdoors when daytime temperatures are above 75 F. They don't transplant well.
Warning
Bean seeds are damaged by soaking in water or by being planted in very wet soil. Plant them in warm, moist, but not soggy, soil at a depth of 1 inch beneath the surface.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
The Michigan Asparagus Advisory Board calls asparagus "one of nature's most perfect foods." This healthful vegetable has no cholesterol or fat and is high in vitamins B6, A, C and thiamine. It's a long-lived vegetable but frost may damage young spears.
Growing Asparagus
Asparagus requires a high pH soil of about 7.0. Asparagus crowns are planted 8 to 12 inches apart in a trench that is 6 to 10 inches deep and covered with 3 to 4 inches of soil. Rows are set from four to five feet apart. Organic compost and a small amount of phosphate fertilizer are then added. Plants are allowed to mature without harvesting for the first three years.
Ferns
After harvesting, the spears grow into ferns with red berries; these ferns produce the nutrients for the crown to produce a good crop the next season. The ferns should never be pruned or cut back. They will die back with winter frost but the underground crown will survive cold weather and be recharged for spring production.
Frost Damage to Spears
Frost can kill young asparagus spears when they first emerge from the soil. They will shrivel and turn black, making them inedible. Cut off all damaged spears. An eight-inch layer of organic compost or other mulch will help to keep the soil warmer and protect the crown from very cold weather.
Growing Asparagus
Asparagus requires a high pH soil of about 7.0. Asparagus crowns are planted 8 to 12 inches apart in a trench that is 6 to 10 inches deep and covered with 3 to 4 inches of soil. Rows are set from four to five feet apart. Organic compost and a small amount of phosphate fertilizer are then added. Plants are allowed to mature without harvesting for the first three years.
Ferns
After harvesting, the spears grow into ferns with red berries; these ferns produce the nutrients for the crown to produce a good crop the next season. The ferns should never be pruned or cut back. They will die back with winter frost but the underground crown will survive cold weather and be recharged for spring production.
Frost Damage to Spears
Frost can kill young asparagus spears when they first emerge from the soil. They will shrivel and turn black, making them inedible. Cut off all damaged spears. An eight-inch layer of organic compost or other mulch will help to keep the soil warmer and protect the crown from very cold weather.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Colorado vegetable gardening success depends, in part, on which part of the state you live in. Gardeners on the Western Slope, near Grand Junction, can grow almost any vegetable successfully, while those living in the mountains face the challenges of poor soil and a short growing season. Gardeners in the Denver metro area can grow most crops successfully, with a few caveats: amend the soil thoroughly with compost and manure, use row covers and cloches to extend the growing season and expect to water the garden two to three times per week.
Greens
Colorado's cool, wet springs are ideal for growing greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale and broccoli. Plant these crops between mid-March and late-April, depending on where you live, because they bolt and run to seed as soon as the weather gets hot. Many of these crops turn bitter during dry weather so monitor the soil carefully, especially if you have the sandy soil that's common east of Denver.
Root Vegetables
Plant potatoes, carrots and fennel from mid-to-late April for a late summer crop. If you have clay soils, try using raised beds or plant small varieties. The heavy soils found throughout much of the Front Range stunt the growth of long carrots, causing them to be deformed or crooked. Shorter varieties grow successfully, though.
Beans
Beans grow beautifully in Colorado's warm, dry climate. They are rarely bothered by pests or disease and mature long before the first fall frost. Beans will also come back if hit by a light hailstorm, unlike many garden vegetables. Plant either row or bush beans after the last expected frost, which is typically mid-May, according to the Colorado State University Extension.
Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants
Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all grow well in Colorado, although most gardeners find that chile peppers are more successful than bell peppers in Colorado's dry climate. Plant these heat-loving crops two to three weeks after the last expected frost, or use cloches and row covers to keep them warm. Monitor the soil moisture carefully to avoid blossom end rot or cracked skins from over watering. Heirloom varieties that might succumb to disease in more humid regions grow easily in Colorado.
Squash
Even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in Colorado. In fact, gardeners are often tired of zucchini long before it is done producing. Pumpkins also grow well in Colorado's dry climate and make decorative accents for fall. Plant both from seed after the last expected frost and give them plenty of room to grow.
Greens
Colorado's cool, wet springs are ideal for growing greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale and broccoli. Plant these crops between mid-March and late-April, depending on where you live, because they bolt and run to seed as soon as the weather gets hot. Many of these crops turn bitter during dry weather so monitor the soil carefully, especially if you have the sandy soil that's common east of Denver.
Root Vegetables
Plant potatoes, carrots and fennel from mid-to-late April for a late summer crop. If you have clay soils, try using raised beds or plant small varieties. The heavy soils found throughout much of the Front Range stunt the growth of long carrots, causing them to be deformed or crooked. Shorter varieties grow successfully, though.
Beans
Beans grow beautifully in Colorado's warm, dry climate. They are rarely bothered by pests or disease and mature long before the first fall frost. Beans will also come back if hit by a light hailstorm, unlike many garden vegetables. Plant either row or bush beans after the last expected frost, which is typically mid-May, according to the Colorado State University Extension.
Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants
Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all grow well in Colorado, although most gardeners find that chile peppers are more successful than bell peppers in Colorado's dry climate. Plant these heat-loving crops two to three weeks after the last expected frost, or use cloches and row covers to keep them warm. Monitor the soil moisture carefully to avoid blossom end rot or cracked skins from over watering. Heirloom varieties that might succumb to disease in more humid regions grow easily in Colorado.
Squash
Even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in Colorado. In fact, gardeners are often tired of zucchini long before it is done producing. Pumpkins also grow well in Colorado's dry climate and make decorative accents for fall. Plant both from seed after the last expected frost and give them plenty of room to grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable plant that can be a long-lasting, permanent addition to a home garden. This vegetable requires well-draining soil to thrive, as waterlogged soil causes root rot. Growing asparagus in raised beds offers them proper drainage and an easier planting bed that doesn't require deep tilling.
Preparing a Raised Bed
Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth.
Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting.
Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil.
Planting Asparagus
Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting.
Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist.
Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed.
Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons.
Harvesting Asparagus
Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come.
Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
Preparing a Raised Bed
Prepare the raised bed before the last frost of the season ends. Though asparagus can tolerate some light shade, it's best to locate the raised bed in an area that gets six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Raise the bed to at least 12 inches in height to accommodate drainage and growth.
Use a good-quality topsoil that is blended with compost or other organic matter such as manure or peat moss. Laying black plastic over the entire raised bed helps to retain heat within the soil for an early spring planting.
Remove the black plastic when there's no more danger of frost and dig trenches six inches deep and five feet apart with a garden trowel. In each trench, sprinkle one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) for every 50 feet of soil.
Planting Asparagus
Purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns. For the best harvest, ensure the asparagus crowns are healthy and male. Female asparagus use too much energy on producing seeds, leaving a less-than-desirable crop production. To tell the difference, look at the seeds and size of each plant. The female asparagus plant bears berry-like seeds, while the male produces thicker spears and larger flowers. Soak the asparagus crowns in a bucket filled with warm water for one hour before planting.
Plant the asparagus crowns into the trenches, about 12 inches apart, and cover with dirt. Water the plantings until the soil is moist, taking care not to saturate. Continue to water the crop once or twice per week to keep the soil moist.
Spread two to three inches of peat moss throughout the asparagus bed when the tips begin to emerge from the soil, usually in one to two weeks. This will help the soil to retain more moisture and will act as a weed barrier within the raised bed.
Keep the asparagus bed free of weeds, pulling them out regularly by hand. A weedy bed means both weeds and vegetables are competing for the same nutrients and water and can cause a weak crop for future growing seasons.
Harvesting Asparagus
Leave the asparagus crowns to grow tall and ferny their first growing season within the raised bed. This first season will provide the asparagus crowns the energy they need to grow a more productive harvest in the years to come.
Harvest a few asparagus spears when the plants are in their second growing season and reach heights of seven to nine inches tall. Cut the spears off the plant at soil level with a sharp knife. Leave half of the asparagus spears on the plant to provide energy for the third season's crop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Determining the best time to plant your vegetable garden in Kentucky involves more than looking at the calendar. To find the best planting date for each crop, you'll have to take into account your location within the state, the particular vegetables you're planting and when you want to harvest them.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
A summer squash, the zucchini grows well in most summer vegetable gardens. You only need one zucchini plant to produce fruit, as the plants grow separate male and female flowers on the same plant, which are usually pollinated by bees and other insects. You can also pollinate the flowers by hand if you are growing them in a greenhouse or other area where insect pollination isn't possible. Telling the difference between the male and female blooms ensures you pollinate the zucchini correctly for the maximum amount of fruit at harvest time.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月29日
If you're a vegetable gardener who enjoys growing green beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), you can choose from dozens of different varieties, all flavorful when picked at their peak from a home garden. For a bean that's equally good picked young or at a more mature stage, try a flat-podded green bean variety. Often called Italian beans, the plants thrive and produce a heavy crop when given sun, well-drained soil and a bit of extra care.
Getting Started
Like all green beans, Italian beans are frost-sensitive and grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. If winter temperatures drop below freezing and spring is cool where you live, wait until all danger of frost has passed and your soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit, to ensure seed germination by eight to 10 days after planting.
You can choose Italian beans that grow as tall vines -- pole beans -- or as more upright plants -- bush beans. For example, a cultivar called 'Romano' is a pole bean that's 6 to 9 feet tall and yields beans in about 60 days, while a bush variety of 'Roma II' is only about 20 inches tall and takes 53 days to produce beans for harvest. If you grow a pole type, space seeds about 4 to 6 inches apart in rows, or plant in small hills, with four to six seeds per hill. Space rows about 3 feet apart and allow 30 inches between hills. For bush beans, plant in rows with 2 to 4 inches between seeds and 18 to 24 inches between rows. For any type, plant seeds about 1 inch deep and water well after planting.
Sun, Soil and Water
For strong plants that produce a heavy crop of beans, choose a planting spot that gets full sun for most of the day. These plants grow in any type of garden soil that's well-drained and don't require fertilization. Instead of fertilizing, boost the soil's fertility by adding about 2 inches of compost to your planting area before seeding, mixing it into the soil well.
The plants do best when they receive even moisture. One inch of water each week, including rain, is ideal. Good moisture is especially important during blooming and when pods start forming, so provide extra water during dry spells. Water with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep foliage dry and prevent fungal growth. Adding about 2 inches of mulch under the plants also helps conserve soil moisture.
Other Requirements
If you grow pole-type Italian beans, provide a trellis or fence at least 5 feet tall to keep vines off the soil, but set this in place before planting to avoid damaging plant roots. The plants produce tendrils that naturally adhere to wire or string.
Getting Started
Like all green beans, Italian beans are frost-sensitive and grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. If winter temperatures drop below freezing and spring is cool where you live, wait until all danger of frost has passed and your soil temperature is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit, to ensure seed germination by eight to 10 days after planting.
You can choose Italian beans that grow as tall vines -- pole beans -- or as more upright plants -- bush beans. For example, a cultivar called 'Romano' is a pole bean that's 6 to 9 feet tall and yields beans in about 60 days, while a bush variety of 'Roma II' is only about 20 inches tall and takes 53 days to produce beans for harvest. If you grow a pole type, space seeds about 4 to 6 inches apart in rows, or plant in small hills, with four to six seeds per hill. Space rows about 3 feet apart and allow 30 inches between hills. For bush beans, plant in rows with 2 to 4 inches between seeds and 18 to 24 inches between rows. For any type, plant seeds about 1 inch deep and water well after planting.
Sun, Soil and Water
For strong plants that produce a heavy crop of beans, choose a planting spot that gets full sun for most of the day. These plants grow in any type of garden soil that's well-drained and don't require fertilization. Instead of fertilizing, boost the soil's fertility by adding about 2 inches of compost to your planting area before seeding, mixing it into the soil well.
The plants do best when they receive even moisture. One inch of water each week, including rain, is ideal. Good moisture is especially important during blooming and when pods start forming, so provide extra water during dry spells. Water with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep foliage dry and prevent fungal growth. Adding about 2 inches of mulch under the plants also helps conserve soil moisture.
Other Requirements
If you grow pole-type Italian beans, provide a trellis or fence at least 5 feet tall to keep vines off the soil, but set this in place before planting to avoid damaging plant roots. The plants produce tendrils that naturally adhere to wire or string.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
If you enjoy vegetable gardening, you can grow more in less space if you plant certain crops on a trellis. Many types of vining plants grow well when trained onto a trellis, which keeps vegetables off the ground, evenly exposes the entire plant to sun and makes harvesting easier by eliminating the need to bend over when picking the crop.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
Dozens of bell pepper varieties in an array of colors can be grown in your home vegetable garden each summer. Bell peppers can can grow in all U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones and tolerate a variety of climatic conditions. However, because they are a warm-season vegetable, they do best with a long growing season, the Iowa State University Extension reports. Regular applications of fertilizer can benefit the plants, bettering your odds for a healthy harvest.
Before Planting
Pre-treat the soil where you will plant bell peppers with a 5-10-5 fertilizer. Apply 2 to 3 pounds for every 100 square feet of garden space, the Iowa State University Extension advises. Alternately, have your soil tested prior to planting to see what specific needs your soil has and whether it would benefit from a different fertilizer.
After Transplanting
Once you transplant pepper plants outdoors, treat them with water-soluble fertilizer. The Iowa extension recommends using a water-soluble fertilizer or making your own solution by mixing 2 tbsp. of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Each plant should receive between 1 and 2 cups of the fertilizer.
After Fruiting
As your bell peppers grow, they will need at least one more fertilizer application. Wait until the plants set their first young peppers before applying fertilizer, the University of Illinois Extension reports. Use the same fertilizer you applied after the plants were set in the soil and repeat every three or four weeks. Always follow manufacturer's directions carefully to ensure you don't apply too much.
Application Technique
When fertilizing bell peppers and many other garden vegetables, side-dress the plants to prevent damage to the stems and leaves. To do this, apply fertilizer to the soil several inches away from the plant stem, Fort Valley State University recommends. Water the plants thoroughly afterwards, so the fertilizer incorporates into the soil.
Before Planting
Pre-treat the soil where you will plant bell peppers with a 5-10-5 fertilizer. Apply 2 to 3 pounds for every 100 square feet of garden space, the Iowa State University Extension advises. Alternately, have your soil tested prior to planting to see what specific needs your soil has and whether it would benefit from a different fertilizer.
After Transplanting
Once you transplant pepper plants outdoors, treat them with water-soluble fertilizer. The Iowa extension recommends using a water-soluble fertilizer or making your own solution by mixing 2 tbsp. of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Each plant should receive between 1 and 2 cups of the fertilizer.
After Fruiting
As your bell peppers grow, they will need at least one more fertilizer application. Wait until the plants set their first young peppers before applying fertilizer, the University of Illinois Extension reports. Use the same fertilizer you applied after the plants were set in the soil and repeat every three or four weeks. Always follow manufacturer's directions carefully to ensure you don't apply too much.
Application Technique
When fertilizing bell peppers and many other garden vegetables, side-dress the plants to prevent damage to the stems and leaves. To do this, apply fertilizer to the soil several inches away from the plant stem, Fort Valley State University recommends. Water the plants thoroughly afterwards, so the fertilizer incorporates into the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
Baby broccoli, often referred to as broccolini, is similar in appearance to a young broccoli plant that has long shoots. Featuring an asparagus-like flavor, this vegetable was developed by crossing Chinese kale and broccoli. It contains high levels of bitamins A and C, iron, fiber and potassium. By growing baby broccoli at home, gardeners can maintain a regular supply of this uncommon vegetable. Although growing baby broccoli in the garden is similar to growing regular broccoli, it requires more personal attention in order for the plant to produce sweet, long and tender shoots.
Step 1
Begin sowing the baby broccoli seeds two or four weeks before the last frost. Baby broccoli is a member of the crucifer family. Members of this family thrive in cooler weather conditions and may perform slow or die altogether if subjected to the hot weather of midsummer.
Step 2
Fill 4-inch peat containers with seed starter mix. Pour water into the peat containers until the starter mix is damp. Create a hole 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep in each peat container with your little finger.
Step 3
Drop one baby broccoli seed into each hole and cover with surrounding starter mix. Drape plastic wrap over all the peat containers to create a makeshift greenhouse.
Step 4
Move the baby broccoli to a flat surface and place a grow light above the peat containers. Keep the grow light turned on for 12 to 14 hours every day.
Step 5
Lift the plastic wrap and moisten the starter mix until damp two or three times weekly. Remove the covering when the baby broccoli seeds begin to grow through the starter mix.
Step 6
Transplant the baby broccoli to the garden immediately following the last frost. Keep the baby broccoli in their peat containers to avoid distressing the roots. Plant the baby broccoli 12 inches apart.
Step 7
Pinch the center bloom of the baby broccoli plants as it begins to grow. If allowed to grow, the center bloom will inhibit the edible side shoots from properly growing. Continue to pinch off the center bloom throughout the growing season since it will keep trying to grow back.
Step 1
Begin sowing the baby broccoli seeds two or four weeks before the last frost. Baby broccoli is a member of the crucifer family. Members of this family thrive in cooler weather conditions and may perform slow or die altogether if subjected to the hot weather of midsummer.
Step 2
Fill 4-inch peat containers with seed starter mix. Pour water into the peat containers until the starter mix is damp. Create a hole 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep in each peat container with your little finger.
Step 3
Drop one baby broccoli seed into each hole and cover with surrounding starter mix. Drape plastic wrap over all the peat containers to create a makeshift greenhouse.
Step 4
Move the baby broccoli to a flat surface and place a grow light above the peat containers. Keep the grow light turned on for 12 to 14 hours every day.
Step 5
Lift the plastic wrap and moisten the starter mix until damp two or three times weekly. Remove the covering when the baby broccoli seeds begin to grow through the starter mix.
Step 6
Transplant the baby broccoli to the garden immediately following the last frost. Keep the baby broccoli in their peat containers to avoid distressing the roots. Plant the baby broccoli 12 inches apart.
Step 7
Pinch the center bloom of the baby broccoli plants as it begins to grow. If allowed to grow, the center bloom will inhibit the edible side shoots from properly growing. Continue to pinch off the center bloom throughout the growing season since it will keep trying to grow back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Kale, a common garden vegetable related to cabbage and other cole crops, is a member of the Brassica genus, with a number of species and cultivars for the garden. Kale serves as a tasty vegetable whether it's cooked or raw. But you're not the only one who likes to munch on kale; many bug species also love eating kale. If insect pests have turned your kale garden bed into an all-you-can-eat salad buffet, take action. To minimize potential toxicity risks for you and your family, try all-natural or organic methods of kale bug eradication before resorting to chemical insecticides.
Blast your kale with strong jets of water from your garden hose. This physically removes and deters insect invasions and also helps kill certain fragile bug species, such as the soft-bodied aphid -- a common kale pest. While kale leaves are firm and hardy, limit this bug control method to just once a day to avoid causing undue damage to your kale plants.
Spritz your kale with soapy water. The soap film coats the bodies of any present insects and suffocates them. Once the soap dries, it also creates a bitter-tasting residue that keeps new bugs from moving in. For effective results, combine a teaspoon of liquid dish soap with half a gallon of fresh water in a spray bottle. Most dish soaps are nontoxic, but if you're worried, try using an organic and biodegradable dish soap.
Release ladybugs in your kale garden bed. These are especially effective for naturally killing and reducing aphid populations, which commonly infest kale and other cole crops.
Remove beetles and caterpillars manually. Such handpicking is a natural and effective form of pest control in smaller gardens. Drop the bugs into a bucket of soapy water to quickly kill the pests and prevent them from simply returning to your kale.
Spray your kale with a natural and organic insecticide if you notice heavy insect invasions -- causing wilting and other signs of visible plant distress -- on 10 percent or more of your kale plants. The manual handpicking you accomplished in the previous step can easily help you determine the level of insect invasions. Sprays tend to run off the glossy kale leaves. Remedy this by adding about 3 teaspoons of liquid soap per gallon of spray mixture to improve the liquid's adhesion. Spray both sides of the leaves with a fine mist until they are wet. Spray twice, five to seven days apart, and avoid spraying on a hot, sunny day. For effective, natural pest control against all kinds of common kale pests, including beetles and leafminers, try spinosad. Based on a soil-dwelling bacterium, the spray satisfies federal regulations concerning organic certification for vegetables.
Blast your kale with strong jets of water from your garden hose. This physically removes and deters insect invasions and also helps kill certain fragile bug species, such as the soft-bodied aphid -- a common kale pest. While kale leaves are firm and hardy, limit this bug control method to just once a day to avoid causing undue damage to your kale plants.
Spritz your kale with soapy water. The soap film coats the bodies of any present insects and suffocates them. Once the soap dries, it also creates a bitter-tasting residue that keeps new bugs from moving in. For effective results, combine a teaspoon of liquid dish soap with half a gallon of fresh water in a spray bottle. Most dish soaps are nontoxic, but if you're worried, try using an organic and biodegradable dish soap.
Release ladybugs in your kale garden bed. These are especially effective for naturally killing and reducing aphid populations, which commonly infest kale and other cole crops.
Remove beetles and caterpillars manually. Such handpicking is a natural and effective form of pest control in smaller gardens. Drop the bugs into a bucket of soapy water to quickly kill the pests and prevent them from simply returning to your kale.
Spray your kale with a natural and organic insecticide if you notice heavy insect invasions -- causing wilting and other signs of visible plant distress -- on 10 percent or more of your kale plants. The manual handpicking you accomplished in the previous step can easily help you determine the level of insect invasions. Sprays tend to run off the glossy kale leaves. Remedy this by adding about 3 teaspoons of liquid soap per gallon of spray mixture to improve the liquid's adhesion. Spray both sides of the leaves with a fine mist until they are wet. Spray twice, five to seven days apart, and avoid spraying on a hot, sunny day. For effective, natural pest control against all kinds of common kale pests, including beetles and leafminers, try spinosad. Based on a soil-dwelling bacterium, the spray satisfies federal regulations concerning organic certification for vegetables.
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