文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Closely related to broccoli, cauliflower grows best in cool weather and is easily damaged by the heat of summer. Generally planted for spring and fall harvests, this vegetable can be tricky to grow thanks to tough soil requirements and tight temperature ranges. All cauliflower plants should at least be started indoors, and you can continue to grow them indoors with the right type of container.
Starting Seeds
Because cauliflower must be harvested before the summer heat sets in, you have to start seeds indoors during winter. Sow seeds in small planting pots or seed trays at least 6 to 10 weeks before the final predicted frost date for your area. Final frost is generally in February or March, so you will begin planting in December or January. Plant in fast-draining soil mix, keep the soil consistently moist and store the seeds at or very near 45 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the seeds to germinate. You should see small sprouts coming up from the seeds within two to three weeks of planting.
Container Growing
If you intend to keep cauliflower indoors, you will need to transplant the young seedlings into larger containers. Use containers that are at least 8 inches deep. The width of the container varies by the number of cauliflower plants you want to grow in a single container. Each head of cauliflower needs at least 18 inches on all sides to grow to full size. Use quick-draining potting soil and a container that features drainage holes. If you want to create your own growing container, such as from an old storage tub, you can drill 1/4-inch diameter holes along the bottom and sides (1 inch from the bottom) of the container to create your own drainage holes.
Indoor Care
Transplant the seedlings into the container about six weeks after planting when the seedlings have at least four good, strong leaves. Plant one of the seedlings at the direct center of the container, and plant each plant at least 18 inches removed from the first and from each other. Maintain temperature around the cauliflower between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit; temperature variations will slow or stunt growth. Keep the soil consistently moist. After about a month, add aged manure to the soil to feed the plant, encouraging growth. Cauliflower is ready for harvest 70 to 120 days after seeding.
Growing Indoors for Fall Harvest
If you will grow your cauliflower indoors only and control temperature, soil and watering, you can theoretically plant at any time for a harvest at any time of year. In general, a fall harvest requires planting in the summer, which does not always result in healthy plants thanks to warm weather. However, as long as you can maintain the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit temperature range, plant cauliflower anytime of year for indoor growing.
Starting Seeds
Because cauliflower must be harvested before the summer heat sets in, you have to start seeds indoors during winter. Sow seeds in small planting pots or seed trays at least 6 to 10 weeks before the final predicted frost date for your area. Final frost is generally in February or March, so you will begin planting in December or January. Plant in fast-draining soil mix, keep the soil consistently moist and store the seeds at or very near 45 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage the seeds to germinate. You should see small sprouts coming up from the seeds within two to three weeks of planting.
Container Growing
If you intend to keep cauliflower indoors, you will need to transplant the young seedlings into larger containers. Use containers that are at least 8 inches deep. The width of the container varies by the number of cauliflower plants you want to grow in a single container. Each head of cauliflower needs at least 18 inches on all sides to grow to full size. Use quick-draining potting soil and a container that features drainage holes. If you want to create your own growing container, such as from an old storage tub, you can drill 1/4-inch diameter holes along the bottom and sides (1 inch from the bottom) of the container to create your own drainage holes.
Indoor Care
Transplant the seedlings into the container about six weeks after planting when the seedlings have at least four good, strong leaves. Plant one of the seedlings at the direct center of the container, and plant each plant at least 18 inches removed from the first and from each other. Maintain temperature around the cauliflower between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit; temperature variations will slow or stunt growth. Keep the soil consistently moist. After about a month, add aged manure to the soil to feed the plant, encouraging growth. Cauliflower is ready for harvest 70 to 120 days after seeding.
Growing Indoors for Fall Harvest
If you will grow your cauliflower indoors only and control temperature, soil and watering, you can theoretically plant at any time for a harvest at any time of year. In general, a fall harvest requires planting in the summer, which does not always result in healthy plants thanks to warm weather. However, as long as you can maintain the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit temperature range, plant cauliflower anytime of year for indoor growing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Identifying vegetable vines is fairly simple because only a few vegetable plants -- beans, peas, tomatoes and cucurbits -- have a vining habit. Most vegetables, such as lettuce, carrots, peppers, corn and broccoli, have an upright habit. Bush varieties of beans, tomatoes, melons and squash may not vine either, but have a compact, upright form. With the exception of peas, which thrive in cool, spring weather, all vining vegetable plants thrive in warm, sunny conditions and need 2 to 3 months of summer weather to mature.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Collard greens are lush, leafy vegetables that thrive in warm weather and serve as nutritious crops for a vegetable garden. Although they are cool-weather crops, tolerant of frost and averse to sweltering heat, collard greens are susceptible to bolting when temperatures are too low. When the flowering stalk shoots up from collards, optimal leaf flavor may be lost. All you can do to try to save the greens is cut the flowering stem.
Bolting
Bolting, or the development of a flowering stalk, occurs in all types of leafy vegetables for various reasons. As it occurs, the leaves diminish in size and grow bitter. Leaves grow inedible as energy flows to flowers and stalks. In the case of collard greens, bolting occurs when it is planted too early in spring, when temperatures are too cold. Some collard varieties are slow to bolt, including Georgia LS and Flash.
What to Do
The best advice when confronted with bolting collards is to immediately harvest the leaves or attempt to slow the bolting by removing the flower stalks. Bolting does not mean your harvest is lost, although it can diminish the collard greens' flavor. You will probably be unable to prevent the bolting from occurring, as it is a reaction to environmental conditions over time. The more a collard green plant develops its flower stalk, the less edible the greens will be, so it's beneficial to harvest as quick as possible to retain as much flavor and nutrition as possible.
Prevention
To prevent bolting, gowers must avoid planting collard greens, like any other cole crop, too early. Sow seeds in early spring to harvest in summer, or midway through summer for a fall/early winter harvest. Avoid planting if temperatures are expected to be below 50 F over an extended time. Select varieties of collards that are especially resistant to bolting, as listed above. Remove flowering stalks and stems as they emerge to encourage energy production in leaves.
Harvest
If all goes well, harvested collard greens will be smooth, large and nutritious. All green parts of the plant are edible. Collard greens are a low-calorie source of numerous minerals and vitamins including vitamins A, C and K. Tough and fibrous, they require lots of cooking, which turns their leaves dark green. You can harvest collard greens by cutting down entire plants or by pulling off large leaves as they develop.
Bolting
Bolting, or the development of a flowering stalk, occurs in all types of leafy vegetables for various reasons. As it occurs, the leaves diminish in size and grow bitter. Leaves grow inedible as energy flows to flowers and stalks. In the case of collard greens, bolting occurs when it is planted too early in spring, when temperatures are too cold. Some collard varieties are slow to bolt, including Georgia LS and Flash.
What to Do
The best advice when confronted with bolting collards is to immediately harvest the leaves or attempt to slow the bolting by removing the flower stalks. Bolting does not mean your harvest is lost, although it can diminish the collard greens' flavor. You will probably be unable to prevent the bolting from occurring, as it is a reaction to environmental conditions over time. The more a collard green plant develops its flower stalk, the less edible the greens will be, so it's beneficial to harvest as quick as possible to retain as much flavor and nutrition as possible.
Prevention
To prevent bolting, gowers must avoid planting collard greens, like any other cole crop, too early. Sow seeds in early spring to harvest in summer, or midway through summer for a fall/early winter harvest. Avoid planting if temperatures are expected to be below 50 F over an extended time. Select varieties of collards that are especially resistant to bolting, as listed above. Remove flowering stalks and stems as they emerge to encourage energy production in leaves.
Harvest
If all goes well, harvested collard greens will be smooth, large and nutritious. All green parts of the plant are edible. Collard greens are a low-calorie source of numerous minerals and vitamins including vitamins A, C and K. Tough and fibrous, they require lots of cooking, which turns their leaves dark green. You can harvest collard greens by cutting down entire plants or by pulling off large leaves as they develop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Asparagus is a vegetable commonly found year-round in the grocery store, thanks to modern cultivation techniques. Not only is it a highly nutritious vegetable full of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, it's also low in fat and calories and is a source of dietary fiber. Treat your family to its delicious, delicate taste by selecting only the freshest and best quality spears and tips and avoiding those that are spoiled.
Check the asparagus spears to ensure they are firm and straight. Look where the bunch has been secured. If there are indentations where the rubber band or string was tied, avoid the asparagus as the bunch is starting to lose its freshness.
Check the tips, which should be tightly closed and either dark green or purple. Discard any that are light in color, beginning to turn yellow or have begun to turn to seed.
Look for wetness and slime, which is a sign the asparagus is past its prime. Fresh asparagus tips are firm and dry.
Smell the asparagus to see if it has a bad odor. Fresh spears have no smell. If you detect a bad odor, it is best to avoid the bunch.
Avoid thick, ridged spears, which tend to be old and often have less flavor than thinner, fresher spears.
Check the asparagus spears to ensure they are firm and straight. Look where the bunch has been secured. If there are indentations where the rubber band or string was tied, avoid the asparagus as the bunch is starting to lose its freshness.
Check the tips, which should be tightly closed and either dark green or purple. Discard any that are light in color, beginning to turn yellow or have begun to turn to seed.
Look for wetness and slime, which is a sign the asparagus is past its prime. Fresh asparagus tips are firm and dry.
Smell the asparagus to see if it has a bad odor. Fresh spears have no smell. If you detect a bad odor, it is best to avoid the bunch.
Avoid thick, ridged spears, which tend to be old and often have less flavor than thinner, fresher spears.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Watermelons are the dessert crop of the vegetable garden, and the sweet, refreshing fruit matures in the heat of summer, just when we need it most. A few conditions and diseases cause black spots and blotches that make the fruit inedible. Blossom end rot, which is caused by soil conditions, is easily corrected so that the gardener only loses the first ripening fruit, while bacterial and fungal diseases can destroy the entire crop.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
Black Rot
Black rot, caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, affects members of the cucurbit family including squash and cucumbers, pumpkins and watermelons. The symptoms vary depending on the species. In watermelons, the spots begin as round, water-soaked areas, dark green to black in color. Over time they enlarge and may form a depression in the center with cracks radiating outward. White fungus grows over the lesion when humidity is high.
Preventing Black Rot
Good cultural practices help prevent black rot. Plant watermelons in well-drained soil and water the plants early in the day so that the vines have time to dry completely before nightfall. Plants weakened by powdery mildew and sucking insects such as cucumber beetles and aphids are highly susceptible to black rot, so control these pests as much as possible. Grow watermelons in a part of the garden where you haven't grown any member of the cucurbit family for the past two or three years.
Blossom End Rot
Watermelons with blossom end rot have dark brown or black areas at the blossom end of the fruit. This occurs when the soil is deficient in calcium or the calcium in the soil is in a form that the plant roots can't absorb. Add calcium to the soil in the form of lime or gypsum and spray the foliage with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride. Remove the affected fruit and avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which interferes with the plant's ability to absorb calcium. When the foliage is dark green the plants don't need additional nitrogen.
Bacterial Fruit Blotch
Bacterial fruit blotch is particularly disappointing because the fruit appears healthy until symptoms develop just two weeks or less before harvest time. Symptoms begin as dark spots on watermelons, eventually developing cracks and a scaly appearance. The disease is spread through infected seeds, so the best prevention is to purchase seeds from a reputable source.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Fruit and vegetable gardens burst into bloom in spring and summer for eventual fruit harvest, but rarely consist of one specific plant variety. Gardeners plant a range of their favorite fruits and vegetables for wide, satisfying harvests. Warm-season plants like tomatoes and melons thrive together with the same temperature, sun, nutrition and water needs, but they require generous spacing for growth. Plant these crops at the same time, and with the same considerations.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
The pear-shaped, light-green fruits known in the U.S. as vegetable pears and in Mexico as chayotes grow on vigorous cold-sensitive vines of the cucurbit family -- the same plant family that includes pumpkins, squash, melons and cucumbers. Known to ancient Aztecs as chayotli and to botanists as Sechium edule, chayote vines need a 150-day growing season between hard frosts, a circumstance hard to come by in the U.S. except for Southern locales. Where frost doesn't destroy the roots, an established chayote plant will resprout the following spring and again produce an immense quantity of fruit.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Grow your own salad at home with a backyard patch of lettuce (Lactuca sativa), which thrives throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. Since this vegetable is prized for its crisp, edible leaves, yellowing foliage can ruin your dreams of a homemade salad harvest. Lettuce may turn yellow for a few common reasons, each which has an organic, natural solution.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Jicama has a crisp, sweet flavor reminiscent of apples. The white flesh of the root is edible, both raw and cooked, and is often used in salads or cooked in the same manner as potatoes. This Mexican vegetable is sometimes grown in home gardens and is also available from most well-stocked grocery stores. Selecting ripe jicamas, whether you grow them yourself or purchase them, ensures the best flavor and texture.
Step 1
Examine the exterior of the jicama. Select those with an approximate 6-inch diameter and a smooth, cream or light brown exterior. Avoid wrinkled jicama roots as these are overly-mature.
Step 2
Check all sides of the jicama for cracks. Avoid those with cracks or visible bruises.
Step 3
Cut into the jicama. Under-ripe jicamas are hard and difficult to cut while a knife easily slices through a ripe jicama.
Step 4
Harvest garden-grown jicama after the foliage begins to die back but before the first fall frost. Dying foliage indicates root maturity.
Step 1
Examine the exterior of the jicama. Select those with an approximate 6-inch diameter and a smooth, cream or light brown exterior. Avoid wrinkled jicama roots as these are overly-mature.
Step 2
Check all sides of the jicama for cracks. Avoid those with cracks or visible bruises.
Step 3
Cut into the jicama. Under-ripe jicamas are hard and difficult to cut while a knife easily slices through a ripe jicama.
Step 4
Harvest garden-grown jicama after the foliage begins to die back but before the first fall frost. Dying foliage indicates root maturity.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Gardeners have the option of growing vegetables that develop on annual vines. In some instances, the vines need sufficient room to spread out, but you can support some of these vegetable vines with stakes and grow them vertically. Some vining vegetables are native to North America and have a long history of cultivation on the continent. Others hail from other continents. Although some of these species may be fruits botanically, people use them as vegetables.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
The tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a summer vegetable in the nightshade family. All tomatoes fall into one of two categories: determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes only grow to a certain size and produce a certain number of fruits, depending on the variety. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow vines and produce fruit for as long as conditions are favorable. Regardless of the difference in growth patterns, all tomatoes must be fertilized and are susceptible to the same pests, disease and frost damage.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
If you have a vegetable garden or are thinking of starting one, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are likely on your list of plants to grow. If you're looking for a variety that has flavorful, all-purpose fruits, a tomato called "Better Boy" could be the perfect choice. An indeterminate plant that keeps growing all season long, this plant thrives in strong light and good garden soil, with just a little extra care ensuring a heavy yield. Tomatoes are grown as annuals in all parts of the United States.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
A vegetable garden isn't complete without a tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) or two, if only for the pleasure of fresh tomatoes in midsummer. Even if you don't have the space for a large garden, tomato plants are suited to container gardening. Which means that if you have a 5-gallon bucket or two hanging around, you have the makings for a tomato garden.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable grown in home gardens, according to the University of Tennessee. This claim is certainly open to debate, but the importance of tomatoes as a home crop is hard to dismiss. If you plan to add tomatoes to your Tennessee garden this year, planting at the right time is essential.
Size
If you grow tomatoes from seed, you can plant them in containers indoors in late winter, but many gardeners choose to buy seedlings from a nursery instead. In either case, tomato plants are usually ready to be transplanted to the garden when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Time Frame
The date on the calendar is not as important as the weather conditions. Tomatoes are highly sensitive to frost, so be sure to wait until the last freeze of the season is behind you before you plant them outdoors. Late April is usually safe to plant tomatoes in Tennessee, but you can wait well into June.
Considerations
For best results, do not plant tomatoes in the same section of your garden two years in a row. Rotating crops so that they are planted in the same location only once every three or four years will help prevent disease and nutrient depletion.
Size
If you grow tomatoes from seed, you can plant them in containers indoors in late winter, but many gardeners choose to buy seedlings from a nursery instead. In either case, tomato plants are usually ready to be transplanted to the garden when they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
Time Frame
The date on the calendar is not as important as the weather conditions. Tomatoes are highly sensitive to frost, so be sure to wait until the last freeze of the season is behind you before you plant them outdoors. Late April is usually safe to plant tomatoes in Tennessee, but you can wait well into June.
Considerations
For best results, do not plant tomatoes in the same section of your garden two years in a row. Rotating crops so that they are planted in the same location only once every three or four years will help prevent disease and nutrient depletion.
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