文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
At the young, green stage, black-eyed peas are removed from their plump pods, cooked and served as a hearty green vegetable side dish. Dry black-eyed peas are a cream-colored bean-like legume with distinctive dark-colored markings. Also known as cowpeas, they are soaked, then cooked for about two hours and served as a main dish, in soups or as a filling cold salad. Whether you have an abundance of fresh green cowpeas from the garden or leftovers from a dinner featuring cooked dry black-eyed peas, preserve them in the freezer for a quick start to a nutritious meal in the future.
Step 1
Pop open the black-eyed pea pods with your fingers and scoop the small green peas out into a colander.
Step 2
Rinse the shelled peas under cool running water. Pick out any debris and pod pieces that may have fallen into the peas.
Step 3
Fill a large cooking pot two-thirds full of water. Bring it to a rolling boil over high heat.
Step 4
Dump the black-eyed peas into the boiling water and cook them for two full minutes.
Step 5
Pour the cooked peas back into the colander to drain out the hot water.
Step 6
Place the drained black-eyed peas immediately into a large bowl filled with water and ice cubes. Swirl the peas around for a minute or two until they are completely cooled, then pour them into the colander to drain.
Step 7
Spoon the cooled peas into pint-sized plastic containers, cover tightly with a lid and place the container into the freezer. If you prefer freezing in plastic bags, use the type specifically designed for use in freezers and press as much air out of the filled bag as possible before sealing.
Dried Black-Eyed Peas
Step 1
Place 1 or more cups of dry black-eyed peas in a large cooking pot. Cover them with 5 cups of water per cup of peas and put a lid on the pot.
Step 2
Set the pot on a burner turned to its highest setting. When the water comes to a boil, allow the peas to cook for two full minutes.
Step 3
Remove the pot from the stove and take off the lid. Let the peas sit undisturbed for at least two hours, then pour them into a colander to strain away the water.
Step 4
Dump the drained black-eyed peas back into the water. Pour the same amount of water over the peas that you used when you originally soaked them. If you started with 1 cup of dried peas, for example, add 5 cups of water, even though the peas have expanded in volume through the soaking process.
Step 5
Cover the pot with a lid and bring it to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium, or lower if necessary, to keep the liquid at a lightly bubbling simmer. Cook the peas for two hours or until they are tender and most of the liquid is absorbed.
Step 6
Pour the cooked peas into a colander and run cold water over them for three to four minutes to start the cooling process. Let the colander sit for five to 10 minutes, shaking it several times, to allow excess water to drain completely.
Step 7
Turn the black-eyed peas out into one or more large baking pans, spreading the peas out in a layer no deeper than 3 inches to facilitate faster cooling. Cover the pans with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least two hours, or until the peas are completely cooled.
Step 8
Package the cooled black-eyed peas in pint- or quart-sized containers, whichever is most convenient for your cooking style. Cover the containers with lids that seal tightly. Use plastic bags specifically designed for freezer use if you want to flatten the filled bags to conserve space in your freezer.
Step 1
Pop open the black-eyed pea pods with your fingers and scoop the small green peas out into a colander.
Step 2
Rinse the shelled peas under cool running water. Pick out any debris and pod pieces that may have fallen into the peas.
Step 3
Fill a large cooking pot two-thirds full of water. Bring it to a rolling boil over high heat.
Step 4
Dump the black-eyed peas into the boiling water and cook them for two full minutes.
Step 5
Pour the cooked peas back into the colander to drain out the hot water.
Step 6
Place the drained black-eyed peas immediately into a large bowl filled with water and ice cubes. Swirl the peas around for a minute or two until they are completely cooled, then pour them into the colander to drain.
Step 7
Spoon the cooled peas into pint-sized plastic containers, cover tightly with a lid and place the container into the freezer. If you prefer freezing in plastic bags, use the type specifically designed for use in freezers and press as much air out of the filled bag as possible before sealing.
Dried Black-Eyed Peas
Step 1
Place 1 or more cups of dry black-eyed peas in a large cooking pot. Cover them with 5 cups of water per cup of peas and put a lid on the pot.
Step 2
Set the pot on a burner turned to its highest setting. When the water comes to a boil, allow the peas to cook for two full minutes.
Step 3
Remove the pot from the stove and take off the lid. Let the peas sit undisturbed for at least two hours, then pour them into a colander to strain away the water.
Step 4
Dump the drained black-eyed peas back into the water. Pour the same amount of water over the peas that you used when you originally soaked them. If you started with 1 cup of dried peas, for example, add 5 cups of water, even though the peas have expanded in volume through the soaking process.
Step 5
Cover the pot with a lid and bring it to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium, or lower if necessary, to keep the liquid at a lightly bubbling simmer. Cook the peas for two hours or until they are tender and most of the liquid is absorbed.
Step 6
Pour the cooked peas into a colander and run cold water over them for three to four minutes to start the cooling process. Let the colander sit for five to 10 minutes, shaking it several times, to allow excess water to drain completely.
Step 7
Turn the black-eyed peas out into one or more large baking pans, spreading the peas out in a layer no deeper than 3 inches to facilitate faster cooling. Cover the pans with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least two hours, or until the peas are completely cooled.
Step 8
Package the cooled black-eyed peas in pint- or quart-sized containers, whichever is most convenient for your cooking style. Cover the containers with lids that seal tightly. Use plastic bags specifically designed for freezer use if you want to flatten the filled bags to conserve space in your freezer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Zucchini is a prolific vegetable that grows well in most soil as long as it gets plenty of sunlight. The leaves of the zucchini plant are substantial in size and offer shade for the vegetables beneath. Zucchini vegetables themselves do not require direct sunlight. Direct sunlight on the zucchini vegetable can cause the skin to harden and mature too quickly. Pruning zucchini can be beneficial when garden space is an issue, to promote new growth, and for safety purposes when harvesting zucchini.
Step 1
Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini.
Step 2
Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant.
Step 3
Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production.
Step 4
Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.
Step 1
Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini.
Step 2
Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant.
Step 3
Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production.
Step 4
Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), also called summer squash, is a warm-season vegetable that should be planted after all danger of frost has passed. A frost-tender annual, zucchini can be once the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Most zucchini varieties reach maturity in roughly 60 days and are best harvested when still young and tender.
Growth Stages
Plant the large zucchini seeds directly into the garden in the spring, or get a jump-start on the season by starting the seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost date for your area. Once the seeds have germinated, they develop quickly into vines that need plenty of space to sprawl. Flowers open in about 50 days, and the tiny squash appear soon after that. Growth proceeds rapidly from that point, and it's a good idea to start harvesting when the zucchini are no more than 6 to 8 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter. At this stage, the squash is tender and sweet, and the seeds are small. It's okay to let them grow a little longer, but quality deteriorates rapidly in zucchini that are allowed to stay on the vine too long.
Picking Strategies
The large leaves on zucchini or summer squash plants are often prickly and conceal the bounty of fruit growing beneath them. When harvesting, select a dry sunny day, because working in the wet plants promotes disease. Gently move the leaves aside, being careful not to break them or damage any rootlets that have formed along the vines and taken hold in the soil. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick stem about halfway from the blossom end, and harvest as many zucchini as you can to keep the plants producing.
Past-Due Picking
Zucchini that are left on the vines too long past the ideal picking time often grow large, their skin toughens and the flesh becomes more fibrous. The seeds grow larger inside the fruit, too, and the once-tender and sweet flesh becomes waterlogged and loses much of its flavor and firm texture. While the squash are still edible at this stage, you generally have to peel them and remove the seeds and any tough fibers that have developed around the seeds. Zucchinis that were harvested young retain their shape during cooking, making them ideal for stir-fries and for stuffing and baking whole, while older fruit turns mushy more quickly because they take longer to cook.
Storage and Preservation
When storing your newly picked zucchini, opt for a paper bag over a plastic grocery bag, because the plastic encourages the production of moisture released by the squash. Stored in a paper bag in the crisper tray of your refrigerator, the zucchini will keep for up to 10 days. If you have a bounty of young tender zucchini, freeze what you can't use within 10 days by washing the squash, cutting it into rounds or cubes, and blanching it for about two minutes in boiling water. Remove the squash from the boiling water, plunge it into ice water, drain it on paper towels and freeze in plastic containers or plastic bags.
Growth Stages
Plant the large zucchini seeds directly into the garden in the spring, or get a jump-start on the season by starting the seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost date for your area. Once the seeds have germinated, they develop quickly into vines that need plenty of space to sprawl. Flowers open in about 50 days, and the tiny squash appear soon after that. Growth proceeds rapidly from that point, and it's a good idea to start harvesting when the zucchini are no more than 6 to 8 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter. At this stage, the squash is tender and sweet, and the seeds are small. It's okay to let them grow a little longer, but quality deteriorates rapidly in zucchini that are allowed to stay on the vine too long.
Picking Strategies
The large leaves on zucchini or summer squash plants are often prickly and conceal the bounty of fruit growing beneath them. When harvesting, select a dry sunny day, because working in the wet plants promotes disease. Gently move the leaves aside, being careful not to break them or damage any rootlets that have formed along the vines and taken hold in the soil. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick stem about halfway from the blossom end, and harvest as many zucchini as you can to keep the plants producing.
Past-Due Picking
Zucchini that are left on the vines too long past the ideal picking time often grow large, their skin toughens and the flesh becomes more fibrous. The seeds grow larger inside the fruit, too, and the once-tender and sweet flesh becomes waterlogged and loses much of its flavor and firm texture. While the squash are still edible at this stage, you generally have to peel them and remove the seeds and any tough fibers that have developed around the seeds. Zucchinis that were harvested young retain their shape during cooking, making them ideal for stir-fries and for stuffing and baking whole, while older fruit turns mushy more quickly because they take longer to cook.
Storage and Preservation
When storing your newly picked zucchini, opt for a paper bag over a plastic grocery bag, because the plastic encourages the production of moisture released by the squash. Stored in a paper bag in the crisper tray of your refrigerator, the zucchini will keep for up to 10 days. If you have a bounty of young tender zucchini, freeze what you can't use within 10 days by washing the squash, cutting it into rounds or cubes, and blanching it for about two minutes in boiling water. Remove the squash from the boiling water, plunge it into ice water, drain it on paper towels and freeze in plastic containers or plastic bags.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
Planting a vegetable garden in Missouri can be rewarding thanks to a relatively warm climate and a growing season that lasts from about April to October. But the variety of climates and temperature zones in the state can make it tricky to know when to start your vegetable garden.
Missouri planting climate
During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the "North" planting categorization, even though it's in a more southern part of the state, due to its elevation. Planting times in each of these areas is affected by temperature and the date of the last frost. The southern part of Missouri has an average frost-free date of April 5. In northern Missouri, the average frost-free date is typically April 20, though the University of Missouri Extension notes that frost can hit until mid-May.
Missouri planting times
Planting dates vary by vegetable variety. The University of Missouri Extension offers a vegetable planting calendar that details planting dates for each vegetable based on region. Cold weather crops, such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, cabbage and cauliflower can be planted in March in the southern region. In the north, they can be planted in April, and in the central region they can be planted from mid-March to mid-April. Beans and cucumbers should be planted in mid- to late-April in the south and mid- to late-May in the north, and hey should be planted in early May in central Missouri. Warmer weather crops, such as peppers, squash and tomatoes, can be planted in May in the south, mid-May in central Missouri, and mid- to late-May in the northern region. Sweet corn can be planted from late April to mid-August in the south, from late April to early August in central Missouri and from early May to mid-July in the north.
Fall crops
Several varieties of vegetables can be sowed a second time for fall harvest. These dates are also listed on the MU Extension planting calendar. Beets, for example, can be sown from Aug. 1 to 15 in the south, Aug. 1 to 10 in central Missouri and July 25 to Aug. 1 in northern Missouri for a fall crop. Cabbage and carrots can be planted in early August in the south, in central Missouri from late July to early August and in late July in the north.
Missouri planting climate
During growing season, Missouri gets between 60 and 90 days that are warmer than 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Missouri generally falls under Zones 5 and 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, but the University of Missouri Extension divides the state into three areas, North, Central and South, in determining planting dates for vegetables. The Ozark plateau region also falls under the "North" planting categorization, even though it's in a more southern part of the state, due to its elevation. Planting times in each of these areas is affected by temperature and the date of the last frost. The southern part of Missouri has an average frost-free date of April 5. In northern Missouri, the average frost-free date is typically April 20, though the University of Missouri Extension notes that frost can hit until mid-May.
Missouri planting times
Planting dates vary by vegetable variety. The University of Missouri Extension offers a vegetable planting calendar that details planting dates for each vegetable based on region. Cold weather crops, such as beets, carrots, lettuce, peas, cabbage and cauliflower can be planted in March in the southern region. In the north, they can be planted in April, and in the central region they can be planted from mid-March to mid-April. Beans and cucumbers should be planted in mid- to late-April in the south and mid- to late-May in the north, and hey should be planted in early May in central Missouri. Warmer weather crops, such as peppers, squash and tomatoes, can be planted in May in the south, mid-May in central Missouri, and mid- to late-May in the northern region. Sweet corn can be planted from late April to mid-August in the south, from late April to early August in central Missouri and from early May to mid-July in the north.
Fall crops
Several varieties of vegetables can be sowed a second time for fall harvest. These dates are also listed on the MU Extension planting calendar. Beets, for example, can be sown from Aug. 1 to 15 in the south, Aug. 1 to 10 in central Missouri and July 25 to Aug. 1 in northern Missouri for a fall crop. Cabbage and carrots can be planted in early August in the south, in central Missouri from late July to early August and in late July in the north.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
Vegetable gardening in Tennessee can be broken down into two planting and growing seasons with warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables. Warm-season vegetables are planted in the spring after any danger of frost and before July, and cool-season vegetables are planted in the fall to benefit from the winter chill; many cool-season vegetables can also be planted in early spring.
Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach.
Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables
Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
Fall Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
Cool-season vegetables are planted in the summer and fall between July 1st and September 30th for fall and winter harvest. This allows them to take advantage of the cool fall and winter temperatures to germinate and grow properly. Cool-season vegetables are relatively shallow rooted and sensitive to drought, so careful monitoring of water is critical. Examples of cool-season vegetables that work for planting in this time frame in Tennessee are broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, collards, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, Irish potatoes, icicle radishes and spinach.
Spring Planting of Warm-Season Vegetables
Warm-season vegetables grow in warm soil and ambient air temperatures which allow them to germinate and develop properly. They are planted between the first week of April and the end of July. Warn-season vegetables and their seeds will be damaged by any exposure to frost or temperatures within 15 degrees of freezing. Unlike winter-season vegetables, they have long, deep roots that make them drought resistant even in the heat of summer, though still requiring watering to grow. For spring planting, consider bush beans, snap beans, pole beans, runner beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, sweet corn, pickling cucumber, slicing cucumber, eggplant, okra, peas, sweet peppers and tomatoes.
Spring Planting of Cool-Season Vegetables
You can also plant cool-season vegetables in the spring in Tennessee between early February and the end of March. Cool-season vegetables that can be grown as spring crops include beets, broccoli, savoy cabbage, round green cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, collards, kale, kohlrabi, butter crunch lettuce, iceberg lettuce, mustard greens, bunch onions, sweet storing onions, English peas, sugar snap peas, Irish and Yukon gold potatoes, white icicle radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, rhubarb and turnips.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月17日
Knowing when to plant your vegetable garden ensures a healthy growth cycle and harvest no matter where you live. Different areas have much different planting times. Michigan gardeners, for example, have cold winters and sometimes late springs, depending on which part of the state they live in. Timing for warm-season, cool-season and tender crops varies greatly and relies heavily on soil temperature and frost dates.
Warm- Vs Cool-Season Crops
Not all vegetable crops require the same season or temperatures to grow vigorously, nor are they all equally tolerant of frost, shade, heat or snow. Warm-season crops are those that grow best during the warmer parts of the season. These include sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumbers (Cucumis sativa), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and melons (Cucumis melo); all of these are tender crops that are susceptible to frost damage or even death by frost. Cool-season vegetables, on the other hand, prefer the cooler temperatures of fall and spring. Many are frost-tolerant, some to temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Onions (Allium sepa), peas (Pisum sativum), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), leafy lettuces (Lactuca sativa) and cole crops (Brassica oleracea) are all cool-season vegetables. Cole crops include kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and cabbage. Cool-season vegetables tend to bolt, become tough or woody or have otherwise adverse flavors or textures when grown in summer.
Frost Dates
Many cool-season vegetables can handle planting times as early as the soil thaws and is workable, usually late March through early April in southern Michigan and three weeks later in the most northern parts. Tender, warm-season crops, however, require much warmer soil temperatures and must wait until the danger of frost has passed. Planting on Memorial Day is a good rule of thumb, but frost dangers occur frequently throughout much of Michigan in spring. If you plant around mid- to late May, keep an eye on the weather forecast and cover your seedlings or transplants if temperatures will fall below 40 degrees F.
Checking Soil Temperature
Checking the soil temperature helps ensure your ground is ready for various types of seeds. Different crops grow best at different soil temperatures. Purchase a soil thermometer from your local hardware store or garden center; you can also use any thermometer that has the capability of reading temperatures at different depths. Many tender warm-season crops require a soil temperature of between 64 and 75 degrees F, while tomatoes and corn grow well when planted at around 55 degrees F. Cold-tolerant crops will germinate and grow at a soil temperature of around 45 degrees F.
Days to Harvest
For fall planting, knowing the days to harvest, sometimes called days to maturity, of each crop will help you determine when to plant the seeds. The days to harvest is listed on each seed packet and determines how many days a seed takes to mature and produce harvest-ready fruit. For warm-season crops with short growing times, you can often plant twice during the summer. Subtract the days to harvest from your last average fall frost date to give you a planting date for frost-tender vegetables.
Warm- Vs Cool-Season Crops
Not all vegetable crops require the same season or temperatures to grow vigorously, nor are they all equally tolerant of frost, shade, heat or snow. Warm-season crops are those that grow best during the warmer parts of the season. These include sweet corn (Zea mays var. saccharata), cucumbers (Cucumis sativa), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and melons (Cucumis melo); all of these are tender crops that are susceptible to frost damage or even death by frost. Cool-season vegetables, on the other hand, prefer the cooler temperatures of fall and spring. Many are frost-tolerant, some to temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Onions (Allium sepa), peas (Pisum sativum), spinach (Spinacia oleracea), leafy lettuces (Lactuca sativa) and cole crops (Brassica oleracea) are all cool-season vegetables. Cole crops include kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi and cabbage. Cool-season vegetables tend to bolt, become tough or woody or have otherwise adverse flavors or textures when grown in summer.
Frost Dates
Many cool-season vegetables can handle planting times as early as the soil thaws and is workable, usually late March through early April in southern Michigan and three weeks later in the most northern parts. Tender, warm-season crops, however, require much warmer soil temperatures and must wait until the danger of frost has passed. Planting on Memorial Day is a good rule of thumb, but frost dangers occur frequently throughout much of Michigan in spring. If you plant around mid- to late May, keep an eye on the weather forecast and cover your seedlings or transplants if temperatures will fall below 40 degrees F.
Checking Soil Temperature
Checking the soil temperature helps ensure your ground is ready for various types of seeds. Different crops grow best at different soil temperatures. Purchase a soil thermometer from your local hardware store or garden center; you can also use any thermometer that has the capability of reading temperatures at different depths. Many tender warm-season crops require a soil temperature of between 64 and 75 degrees F, while tomatoes and corn grow well when planted at around 55 degrees F. Cold-tolerant crops will germinate and grow at a soil temperature of around 45 degrees F.
Days to Harvest
For fall planting, knowing the days to harvest, sometimes called days to maturity, of each crop will help you determine when to plant the seeds. The days to harvest is listed on each seed packet and determines how many days a seed takes to mature and produce harvest-ready fruit. For warm-season crops with short growing times, you can often plant twice during the summer. Subtract the days to harvest from your last average fall frost date to give you a planting date for frost-tender vegetables.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
Spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) produces large seeds that store for up to six years, provided they're properly collected and prepared. Named for its cooked flesh, which resembles spaghetti, spaghetti squash is also called spaghetti gourd, vegetable spaghetti, Manchurian squash and squaghetti. The fruits are smooth-skinned, about 10 inches long, 5 inches in diameter and weigh about 2 pounds.
Harvesting Fruit
Spaghetti squash fruits are ready for harvest about 70 to 80 days after sowing. Only seeds from ripe fruit are likely to sprout when sown later. Harvest spaghetti squash when the vine stem withers and the fruit skin is tough.
If you aren't sure whether a spaghetti squash fruit is ripe, push a thumbnail into the skin. If the fruit is ready for harvesting, your nail won't pierce the skin.
Separating Seed
Seed from spaghetti squash fruits must be separated from the pulp and soaked in water. Healthy seeds sink to the bottom in a few days.
Cut a spaghetti squash in half lengthways with a sharp knife.
Scoop the seeds from the center with a spoon.
Put the seeds in a jar or bucket with an equal amount of water.
Stir the seed and water mixture once a day for two to four days. A mold may form, but this is harmless.
When some seeds sink to the bottom and some float, pour off the water, pulp, floating seeds and mold.
Spread the remaining seeds on a paper towel or screen to dry.
Storing Seed
Drying and freezing spaghetti squash seeds helps keep them fresh and free of pests and diseases. When the seeds are completely dry, place them in paper envelopes or glass jars. Write the name of the seed type and the date on the envelopes or jar labels, and put them in a freezer. After two days, transfer the seeds in their storage containers to a refrigerator. Plant the seeds within three years.
Harvesting Fruit
Spaghetti squash fruits are ready for harvest about 70 to 80 days after sowing. Only seeds from ripe fruit are likely to sprout when sown later. Harvest spaghetti squash when the vine stem withers and the fruit skin is tough.
If you aren't sure whether a spaghetti squash fruit is ripe, push a thumbnail into the skin. If the fruit is ready for harvesting, your nail won't pierce the skin.
Separating Seed
Seed from spaghetti squash fruits must be separated from the pulp and soaked in water. Healthy seeds sink to the bottom in a few days.
Cut a spaghetti squash in half lengthways with a sharp knife.
Scoop the seeds from the center with a spoon.
Put the seeds in a jar or bucket with an equal amount of water.
Stir the seed and water mixture once a day for two to four days. A mold may form, but this is harmless.
When some seeds sink to the bottom and some float, pour off the water, pulp, floating seeds and mold.
Spread the remaining seeds on a paper towel or screen to dry.
Storing Seed
Drying and freezing spaghetti squash seeds helps keep them fresh and free of pests and diseases. When the seeds are completely dry, place them in paper envelopes or glass jars. Write the name of the seed type and the date on the envelopes or jar labels, and put them in a freezer. After two days, transfer the seeds in their storage containers to a refrigerator. Plant the seeds within three years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月16日
When planning your vegetable garden, timing is crucial to getting the most from your hard work. Ohio gardeners can plant during three of the four seasons to get a bigger bounty at harvest times. Summers are long and hot, and winters can be brutal, but the spring and fall seasons bring additional planting times often overlooked.
Ohio's Climate
Most of the Ohio falls within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 6a, although certain areas are in USDA zones 5b and 6b. In USDA zone 6a, the average annual extreme low temperature is minus 10 to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes in winter; wait until the soil is workable to plant your early-spring crops.
Frost Dates
Having a basic understanding and knowledge of the weather and average annual frost dates can help you plan your vegetable garden. Certain crops require a long growing season, some are considered tender and others grow best in cool temperatures. Knowing the average annual first and lost frost dates will help you get a good idea of when to plant your spring and fall vegetables. For much of Ohio, the dates of the average last spring frost -- at 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- range from the end of April to late May; the first frost dates in fall range from mid-September to mid-October.
Summer Vegetable Garden
The summer vegetable garden often takes first place among gardeners. In Ohio, planting dates for summer vegetables are after the last frost but early enough to ensure a long growing season. Many tender crops such as corn (Zea mays), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and beans (Phaseolus spp.) need long summer days and a long growing season to produce the best crops. Tender crops are particularly frost-sensitive and may become irreparably damaged if exposed to frost or cold temperatures. Plant in the middle to end of May to help ensure a bountiful harvest.
Fall Vegetable Garden
Certain vegetable crops do best when they mature after the hottest part of summer. For example, summer's heat can make lettuces (Lactuca sativa) bolt and produce bitter leaves. Cole crops, including broccoli and cauliflower (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata), Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and kale (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) also do best when planted late. Many of these crops are cold-tolerant and able to withstand frosts and temperatures down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting times for these cool-season crops are midsummer, allowing the plants to grow into fall. Plant them between late June and September.
Early-Spring Planting
You have the option of planting cool-season crops as soon as the soil is workable. Lettuces, root vegetables and cole crops can often go in the ground in March or April, as soon as the temperatures start rising and the ground thaws. This timing allows the plants to grow before summer's heat makes them bolt or turn bitter. Early-spring planting also reduces the amount of pests on seedlings.
Help protect young plants' tender leaves and stems from unexpected frosts by draping a protective sheet over stakes in the ground around them or by placing plastic bottles or milk jugs around individual plants.
Ohio's Climate
Most of the Ohio falls within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 6a, although certain areas are in USDA zones 5b and 6b. In USDA zone 6a, the average annual extreme low temperature is minus 10 to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes in winter; wait until the soil is workable to plant your early-spring crops.
Frost Dates
Having a basic understanding and knowledge of the weather and average annual frost dates can help you plan your vegetable garden. Certain crops require a long growing season, some are considered tender and others grow best in cool temperatures. Knowing the average annual first and lost frost dates will help you get a good idea of when to plant your spring and fall vegetables. For much of Ohio, the dates of the average last spring frost -- at 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- range from the end of April to late May; the first frost dates in fall range from mid-September to mid-October.
Summer Vegetable Garden
The summer vegetable garden often takes first place among gardeners. In Ohio, planting dates for summer vegetables are after the last frost but early enough to ensure a long growing season. Many tender crops such as corn (Zea mays), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), peppers (Capsicum spp.) and beans (Phaseolus spp.) need long summer days and a long growing season to produce the best crops. Tender crops are particularly frost-sensitive and may become irreparably damaged if exposed to frost or cold temperatures. Plant in the middle to end of May to help ensure a bountiful harvest.
Fall Vegetable Garden
Certain vegetable crops do best when they mature after the hottest part of summer. For example, summer's heat can make lettuces (Lactuca sativa) bolt and produce bitter leaves. Cole crops, including broccoli and cauliflower (both Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata), Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and kale (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) also do best when planted late. Many of these crops are cold-tolerant and able to withstand frosts and temperatures down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting times for these cool-season crops are midsummer, allowing the plants to grow into fall. Plant them between late June and September.
Early-Spring Planting
You have the option of planting cool-season crops as soon as the soil is workable. Lettuces, root vegetables and cole crops can often go in the ground in March or April, as soon as the temperatures start rising and the ground thaws. This timing allows the plants to grow before summer's heat makes them bolt or turn bitter. Early-spring planting also reduces the amount of pests on seedlings.
Help protect young plants' tender leaves and stems from unexpected frosts by draping a protective sheet over stakes in the ground around them or by placing plastic bottles or milk jugs around individual plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Container gardens offer the chance to grow a vegetable garden without the need for a high-maintenance garden bed. Zucchini is one of many vegetable varieties that thrives in pots. In garden beds, zucchini often is left to sprawl, but in a pot it can be staked to take up less space. Look for hybrid varieties such as Black Magic and Jackpot, that are bred specifically for pot growing.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
Step 1
Fill a 5-gallon or larger pot with a moist, quality potting mixture to within 2 inches of the pot's rim. Make sure the pots and planters have drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 2
Mix a slow-release, balanced fertilizer with the potting mixture, following label instructions for exact application amounts.
Step 3
Plant one zucchini seedling or two to three seeds per pot. Plant seedlings at the same depth they were at in their nursery pots and plant seeds to a depth twice that of their width.
Step 4
Water the potting mixture after planting until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Water the zucchini again when the soil surface begins to dry, which may be daily during hot, dry weather.
Step 5
Place the containers in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight daily.
Step 6
Place a tomato cage on top of the soil in the pot. Guide the zucchini vines through the inside of the cage as they grow. Tie the vines in place loosely with cloth or plastic plant ties. Allow the vines drape over the outside of the cage when they reach the top.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Peppers are a popular plant for the home vegetable garden. The three most common varieties of peppers are bell peppers, hot peppers and sweet peppers. Although peppers are relatively easy to grow, several factors can result in low fruit production. If you want to get your green pepper plants to produce more, be vigilant with their care.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
Step 1
Monitor temperatures. Peppers prefer warm whether, so avoid planting them until after the last frost of the season and cover them if frost is expected. Some varieties suffer during extended periods of extreme heat as well and require shading. Optimal temperatures for growing peppers range from roughly 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 2
Provide proper nutrients. Fertilizer rich in nitrogen will result in a leafy, healthy plant but won't yield much fruit. Use a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer as the plants begin to develop.
Step 3
Remove the first few flower buds. This allows the plant to develop more before it begins producing fruit and sometimes results in higher fruit production.
Step 4
Pick often. Picking fruits as they ripen encourages the plant to begin producing more fruit.
Step 5
Prune the plants. Moderate pruning in the late summer or early fall sometimes extends fruit production, but prune with care. Severe pruning damages the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Eggplants (Solanum melongena) do not have a male or female gender, but they are endowed with cross-pollinating male and female flowers on each plant. We tend to think of the eggplant as a vegetable, but like the tomato, it is classified as a fruit. Fruit or veggie, eggplants do not have a gender.
Dimple Differences
Two types of eggplant may develop on one plant, and that is likely the reason the myth of gender got started. One type has a roundish dimpled area at the blossom end, and the other type has a more oval-shaped dimpled area. The oval-dimpled eggplants are said to have more seeds and be less meaty than the roundish dimpled eggplants. Agriculture experts at the University of Illinois Extension describe the differences as a product of reproduction, not differences of gender.
Good Things About Eggplants
Eggplants love hot weather and grow well where more tender, leafy vegetables may wilt. They like growing conditions similar to tomatoes; they are from the same nightshade family of plants. Eggplants thrive in direct sunlight for six to eight hours per day.
There are several to grow , including egg-shaped 'Black Bell' and the long, slender variety called 'Ichiban.' The dimple differences can appear on fruit from every variety.
Easy To Grow
Once you have found the warm spot in the garden to grow your eggplants, start seeds or seedlings when nighttime temperatures are consistently at or above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Their root systems are subject to cold damage and do not recover easily once they are affected. Allow 2 to 3 feet of growing space between plants. Give eggplant a steady supply of moisture but not enough to create soggy soil conditions. Test for dryness by inserting your finger in the soil; it should feel moist up to the first joint. A soaker hose or drip system is ideal for giving a slow, steady supply of moisture.
Harvest Time and the Dimples
Eggplants bloom with violet flowers in mid- to late summer, and small fruit begin to develop. The time from seed germination to harvest is 16 to 24 weeks, depending on the variety and growing conditions. Plants with a heavy load of fruit may fall over and need to be staked or propped up with a small tomato cage.
Eggplants are ready to pick when their skin is bright and glossy. If they are dull colored, the fruit has been left too long on the plant and may be bitter. Now is the time to turn the fruit upside down, see whether you have a round-dimpled eggplant or an oval-dimpled eggplant, and begin the enjoyment of and eating your eggplant.
Dimple Differences
Two types of eggplant may develop on one plant, and that is likely the reason the myth of gender got started. One type has a roundish dimpled area at the blossom end, and the other type has a more oval-shaped dimpled area. The oval-dimpled eggplants are said to have more seeds and be less meaty than the roundish dimpled eggplants. Agriculture experts at the University of Illinois Extension describe the differences as a product of reproduction, not differences of gender.
Good Things About Eggplants
Eggplants love hot weather and grow well where more tender, leafy vegetables may wilt. They like growing conditions similar to tomatoes; they are from the same nightshade family of plants. Eggplants thrive in direct sunlight for six to eight hours per day.
There are several to grow , including egg-shaped 'Black Bell' and the long, slender variety called 'Ichiban.' The dimple differences can appear on fruit from every variety.
Easy To Grow
Once you have found the warm spot in the garden to grow your eggplants, start seeds or seedlings when nighttime temperatures are consistently at or above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Their root systems are subject to cold damage and do not recover easily once they are affected. Allow 2 to 3 feet of growing space between plants. Give eggplant a steady supply of moisture but not enough to create soggy soil conditions. Test for dryness by inserting your finger in the soil; it should feel moist up to the first joint. A soaker hose or drip system is ideal for giving a slow, steady supply of moisture.
Harvest Time and the Dimples
Eggplants bloom with violet flowers in mid- to late summer, and small fruit begin to develop. The time from seed germination to harvest is 16 to 24 weeks, depending on the variety and growing conditions. Plants with a heavy load of fruit may fall over and need to be staked or propped up with a small tomato cage.
Eggplants are ready to pick when their skin is bright and glossy. If they are dull colored, the fruit has been left too long on the plant and may be bitter. Now is the time to turn the fruit upside down, see whether you have a round-dimpled eggplant or an oval-dimpled eggplant, and begin the enjoyment of and eating your eggplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Pumpkins are a popular vegetable for a reason: they are delicious, fun and easy to grow. It doesn't take all that much to cultivate pumpkins in your yard: soil, space, water and sunlight. But if you want to grow big pumpkins, the kind you might see winning the blue ribbon at a county fair, it takes a little extra effort, and some good old fashioned tricks. Feeding sugar to your pumpkins, for instance, can make them grow much bigger than just sun and water alone will.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Weeds are the bane of every gardener. They seem to flourish with no care or support while the plants the gardeners want require attention almost daily. Weeds steal water, nutrients, sunlight and space from vegetable plants and jeopardize the viability of the garden. Gardeners must take defensive measures to stop and control weeds to enjoy a plentiful harvest of vegetables.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Zucchini, a summer squash, is an abundant producer in the home vegetable garden. Zucchinis ripen from midsummer until fall, continually blooming and producing until cold weather kills off the plant. Frequent harvesting encourages further fruit set on the plants, so pick the ripe ones daily during the height of the season. Zucchinis left too long on the plant become tough and woody, and are no longer fit for the kitchen. Harvesting the zucchinis at the proper time ensures they are also at their peak of flavor.
Step 1
Inspect the plant for zucchinis that have reached 6 to 8 inches in length, as this is the size when most varieties begin ripening. Harvest vegetables that have glossy skin and are firm, but that can still be dented with a fingernail.
Step 2
Grasp the ripe zucchini in one hand. Cut the stem ½ inch up from the zucchini with a sharp knife. Avoid pulling on the zucchini, as this can damage both the vegetable and the plant.
Step 3
Check the plant daily once zucchinis begin reaching maturity. Harvest the vegetables as soon as they reach maturity.
Step 1
Inspect the plant for zucchinis that have reached 6 to 8 inches in length, as this is the size when most varieties begin ripening. Harvest vegetables that have glossy skin and are firm, but that can still be dented with a fingernail.
Step 2
Grasp the ripe zucchini in one hand. Cut the stem ½ inch up from the zucchini with a sharp knife. Avoid pulling on the zucchini, as this can damage both the vegetable and the plant.
Step 3
Check the plant daily once zucchinis begin reaching maturity. Harvest the vegetables as soon as they reach maturity.
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