文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Plant a vegetable garden this spring and save money on your grocery bills. White acre peas and other southern peas grow quickly and produce high yields in warmer climates. Cow peas of all varieties produce peas in shells that you can cook immediately or dry for long-term storage. Found mainly in Florida, white acre peas have a soft texture and delicate creamy taste.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for your peas by tilling a 3-inch layer of compost into the soil. White acre peas need well-drained, loamy soil. They prefer a moderately acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. For best results have your soil tested and apply garden sulfur in amounts recommended by your soil test to correct the pH, if needed.
Step 2
Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting white acre peas. Sow seeds every 3 to 6 inches in rows that are at least 20 inches apart. Sow multiple seeds per hole to ensure germination. Sow additional rows of seed two weeks apart so that the harvest continues throughout the summer.
Step 3
Water your rows every day for the first week, and reduce to twice weekly once germination is complete. While growing, white acre peas need an inch of water every seven to 10 days. When your peas are beginning to flower, water them gently near the base of the plant.
Step 4
Thin your seedlings when they begin to sprout new leaves. Reduce the population to only one plant every six inches. Either pull the seedlings from the earth by grasping them near the roots or clip them with a pair of garden shears.
Step 5
Fertilize your peas with bone meal and wood ash, 1/2 tbsp. each per plant. White acre peas need plenty of phosphorous and potassium but self-fertilize the soil with nitrogen. Adding nitrogen from conventional plant food causes low pea pod production but bigger bushes.
Step 6
Harvest your white acre peas 75 to 90 days after planting. If you plan to eat your peas fresh, pick your peas when the pods plump but have not yet begun to dry. For long-term storage, allow the pods to dry on the vine. Shell the peas and complete the drying process spread on screens.
Step 1
Prepare the soil for your peas by tilling a 3-inch layer of compost into the soil. White acre peas need well-drained, loamy soil. They prefer a moderately acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. For best results have your soil tested and apply garden sulfur in amounts recommended by your soil test to correct the pH, if needed.
Step 2
Wait until all danger of frost has passed before planting white acre peas. Sow seeds every 3 to 6 inches in rows that are at least 20 inches apart. Sow multiple seeds per hole to ensure germination. Sow additional rows of seed two weeks apart so that the harvest continues throughout the summer.
Step 3
Water your rows every day for the first week, and reduce to twice weekly once germination is complete. While growing, white acre peas need an inch of water every seven to 10 days. When your peas are beginning to flower, water them gently near the base of the plant.
Step 4
Thin your seedlings when they begin to sprout new leaves. Reduce the population to only one plant every six inches. Either pull the seedlings from the earth by grasping them near the roots or clip them with a pair of garden shears.
Step 5
Fertilize your peas with bone meal and wood ash, 1/2 tbsp. each per plant. White acre peas need plenty of phosphorous and potassium but self-fertilize the soil with nitrogen. Adding nitrogen from conventional plant food causes low pea pod production but bigger bushes.
Step 6
Harvest your white acre peas 75 to 90 days after planting. If you plan to eat your peas fresh, pick your peas when the pods plump but have not yet begun to dry. For long-term storage, allow the pods to dry on the vine. Shell the peas and complete the drying process spread on screens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Onions are a popular home vegetable garden plant. Like all vegetables, they may eventually go bad if not stored properly. The proper storage method for your onions depends on where they come from, particularly whether you've purchased them from the grocery store or grown them yourself. Storing onions in the fridge is just one option.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Zucchini and other summer squash can be grown in vegetable gardens throughout the United States, providing a good crop each year. Although the squash are considered easy to grow, the plants can suffer damage when not cared for properly. Yellow leaves are a sign of a potential problem in many plants, zucchini included. In some cases, overwatering may cause the problem. However, that is only one potential cause.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
Water Needs
Zucchini need about 1 inch of water per week, the University of Illinois Extension reports. When rainfall does not meet these needs, the best technique for watering the squash is to provide one deep water per week. If you grow zucchini in a sandy soil, water more frequently but use less water with each irrigation, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends.
Too Much Water
Yellow leaves on a zucchini plant can be a sign of many problems, including too much water. Typically, leaves yellow as a result of wet soil following heavy rains when temperatures are cool or cold, the University of Minnesota Extension reports. Leaves also may appear dark green or brown, and many may wilt or die back, when temperatures drop.
Other Causes
Cold weather and too much moisture are among many potential causes for yellow leaves on a zucchini plant. Powdery mildew can also cause yellowing, typically on the plant's oldest leaves. Downy mildew can also cause yellowing, although typically in spots and splotches. Pests including the squash vine borer and squash bugs can make leaves yellow and wilt. Finally, plant viruses such as squash mosaic can lead to yellowing of leaves.
Treatment and Care
How to care for a zucchini plant with yellowing leaves depends on the cause. When the problem develops following a cold and rainy spell, the plant's health may improve without your aid as temperatures warm and the soil dries out. If the yellow leaves are pest related, you can remove visible pests and their eggs and larvae by hand when checking the plants; alternatively, try an insecticide applied at the base of the vines, suggests the Iowa State University Extension. Herbicides can help control mildew and other plant diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Sweet potatoes are one of the most versatile and nutritious vegetables on the market today. They are a very common vegetable in many Asian cultures, though they have yet to catch on as much in the Western diet, as they are mostly thought of as a holiday food. A warm weather vegetable, sweet potatoes are grown all across the United States, but nowhere more so than these five states.
North Carolina
With the sweet potato as its state vegetable, it's no surprise that North Carolina is the No. 1 sweet potato producing state in the country. According to statistics compiled by the United States Department of Agriculture, North Carolina produced, on average, 5,260,277 cwt a year from 1990 to 2007. (A cwt is a unit of measurement used in agriculture, meaning one hundred weight).
Louisiana
Louisiana is known for many things: the birthplace of Elvis, Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Cajun food. It is not necessarily well-know for sweet potatoes, but it's the second-highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,795,055 cwt between 1990 to 2007. Since the sweet potato is a warm weather vegetable, Louisiana is able to grow sweet potatoes year-round. Louisiana agriculture is also composed of sugarcane, cotton and soybeans.
California
With its warm climate, California is an ideal state for growing many different fruits and vegetables, the sweet potato being one of them. California weighs in as the third highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,487,500 cwt between 1990 to 2007. California is also known for its raisins, dairy products, figs and olives. The state produces more than half the countries fruits, nuts and vegetables.
Mississippi
Coming in fourth in sweet potato production is Mississippi, with an average of 1,607,444 cwt from 1990 to 2007. Though most people don't associate Mississippi with sweet potatoes, the state is known for its agriculture, as its warm climate makes it ideal for growing cotton, soybeans, rice and other plants.
Texas
Last, but not least, Texas rounds out the top five list of sweet potato producing states, with an average of 492,888 cwt per year between 1990 to 2007. As the second largest industry in the state, Texas is known for its agriculture, especially its cattle ranches, wool and cotton production. The state also grows much of the country's corn, wheat and hay.
North Carolina
With the sweet potato as its state vegetable, it's no surprise that North Carolina is the No. 1 sweet potato producing state in the country. According to statistics compiled by the United States Department of Agriculture, North Carolina produced, on average, 5,260,277 cwt a year from 1990 to 2007. (A cwt is a unit of measurement used in agriculture, meaning one hundred weight).
Louisiana
Louisiana is known for many things: the birthplace of Elvis, Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Cajun food. It is not necessarily well-know for sweet potatoes, but it's the second-highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,795,055 cwt between 1990 to 2007. Since the sweet potato is a warm weather vegetable, Louisiana is able to grow sweet potatoes year-round. Louisiana agriculture is also composed of sugarcane, cotton and soybeans.
California
With its warm climate, California is an ideal state for growing many different fruits and vegetables, the sweet potato being one of them. California weighs in as the third highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,487,500 cwt between 1990 to 2007. California is also known for its raisins, dairy products, figs and olives. The state produces more than half the countries fruits, nuts and vegetables.
Mississippi
Coming in fourth in sweet potato production is Mississippi, with an average of 1,607,444 cwt from 1990 to 2007. Though most people don't associate Mississippi with sweet potatoes, the state is known for its agriculture, as its warm climate makes it ideal for growing cotton, soybeans, rice and other plants.
Texas
Last, but not least, Texas rounds out the top five list of sweet potato producing states, with an average of 492,888 cwt per year between 1990 to 2007. As the second largest industry in the state, Texas is known for its agriculture, especially its cattle ranches, wool and cotton production. The state also grows much of the country's corn, wheat and hay.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Also called squaghetti, Manchurian squash, vegetable spaghetti and spaghetti gourd, spaghetti squash (Cucurbita pepo) is named for its flesh, which resembles spaghetti when mature fruits are cooked whole. You can tell when your spaghetti squash are ready for harvest by a change in the color and the texture of their skin. Spaghetti squash is an annual plant, and its fruit matures in fall. One spaghetti squash plant produces three to five fruits.
Harvest Time
About 70 to 80 days after you sow spaghetti squash seeds, the fruits are ready for harvest. Mature fruits weigh about 2 pounds, and are about 10 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. If you're unsure whether the squash is ripe, leave it on the plant. Immature spaghetti squash fruits don't last long in storage. But don't leave fruits on spaghetti squash plants if frost is in the forecast. Freezing temperatures damage the fruit.
Fruit Color
As spaghetti squash matures, its skin turns golden yellow. Sugars develop in ripening spaghetti squash flesh, and the skin color also changes. Unripe fruits are light yellow or ivory white, depending on the variety.
Skin Texture
The skin of mature spaghetti squash fruit is tough. As the season progresses, spaghetti squash fruit skin becomes harder and drier. To test whether a fruit is ready for harvest, try to pierce its skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't leave a dent on a mature fruit.
Harvest Method
When you harvest spaghetti squash, leave a portion of stem attached to help the fruit store well. Prune the stems 1 inch from the fruits. Wipe dirt from the squash with a clean, damp cloth.
Squash Storage
Spaghetti squash stores best in a cool, dry place.
Put the harvested fruits in an area that's 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, for up to two weeks to cure the skins.
Store the fruits at 55 degrees Fahrenheit in a cellar, shed or other dry place.
Check the fruits every one or two weeks for signs of decay, and remove any that deteriorate. You can store spaghetti squash for up to three or four months.
Harvest Time
About 70 to 80 days after you sow spaghetti squash seeds, the fruits are ready for harvest. Mature fruits weigh about 2 pounds, and are about 10 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. If you're unsure whether the squash is ripe, leave it on the plant. Immature spaghetti squash fruits don't last long in storage. But don't leave fruits on spaghetti squash plants if frost is in the forecast. Freezing temperatures damage the fruit.
Fruit Color
As spaghetti squash matures, its skin turns golden yellow. Sugars develop in ripening spaghetti squash flesh, and the skin color also changes. Unripe fruits are light yellow or ivory white, depending on the variety.
Skin Texture
The skin of mature spaghetti squash fruit is tough. As the season progresses, spaghetti squash fruit skin becomes harder and drier. To test whether a fruit is ready for harvest, try to pierce its skin with your thumbnail. Your nail won't leave a dent on a mature fruit.
Harvest Method
When you harvest spaghetti squash, leave a portion of stem attached to help the fruit store well. Prune the stems 1 inch from the fruits. Wipe dirt from the squash with a clean, damp cloth.
Squash Storage
Spaghetti squash stores best in a cool, dry place.
Put the harvested fruits in an area that's 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, for up to two weeks to cure the skins.
Store the fruits at 55 degrees Fahrenheit in a cellar, shed or other dry place.
Check the fruits every one or two weeks for signs of decay, and remove any that deteriorate. You can store spaghetti squash for up to three or four months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月19日
Bell peppers are technically a fruit, but are usually referred to as a vegetable. Peppers are in the same family as eggplants and tomatoes, and range in color from yellow and orange to red and green. Green peppers are the least ripe, but are still edible. If you want to ripen your peppers faster, there are tricks you can use both in the garden and in the home.
Step 1
Keep the peppers on the vine as long as possible to promote ripening. The nutrients from the soil as well as the warm weather outdoors helps the fruit ripen faster than prematurely picked peppers. Peppers are ready to be picked by the time they reach 3 1/2 inches long. Green peppers are perfectly ripe, but more bitter than their riper, red counterparts are.
Step 2
Pair a picked less-ripe pepper and a tomato together to hasten the ripening process. Put the two vegetables together in a paper bag and close the bag. Tomatoes emit a gas called ethylene; the gas helps the pepper and any other produce placed in the bag, ripen faster.
Step 3
Place peppers in a sunny window or warm room to help them ripen more efficiently. Cooler temperatures slow ripening, but when the mercury climbs, the peppers will ripen quickly. Keep the indoor temperature above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to promote good pepper quality. Ripening flourishes above 60 F, but compromises the quality once the thermometer drops into the 50s.
Step 1
Keep the peppers on the vine as long as possible to promote ripening. The nutrients from the soil as well as the warm weather outdoors helps the fruit ripen faster than prematurely picked peppers. Peppers are ready to be picked by the time they reach 3 1/2 inches long. Green peppers are perfectly ripe, but more bitter than their riper, red counterparts are.
Step 2
Pair a picked less-ripe pepper and a tomato together to hasten the ripening process. Put the two vegetables together in a paper bag and close the bag. Tomatoes emit a gas called ethylene; the gas helps the pepper and any other produce placed in the bag, ripen faster.
Step 3
Place peppers in a sunny window or warm room to help them ripen more efficiently. Cooler temperatures slow ripening, but when the mercury climbs, the peppers will ripen quickly. Keep the indoor temperature above 55 degrees Fahrenheit to promote good pepper quality. Ripening flourishes above 60 F, but compromises the quality once the thermometer drops into the 50s.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月19日
Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are favorites in the home vegetable garden due to their versatility and flavor. Unfortunately, cucumbers and other cucurbits are prone to a number of diseases and pests. Several of these cause the leaves to yellow; proper identification of the culprit is necessary to curb the problem.
General Care
Healthy plants are less susceptible to pests and diseases, although not immune. The ideal site for cucumbers is one with full sun and an extremely fertile, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Planting too early can cause issues, as well, as drastic changes in temperature from day to night can cause issues with plant production.
Arthropod Pests
Whiteflies and spider mites can cause the leaves of your cucumber vines to yellow, albeit differently.
Whiteflies congregate on the undersides of leaves. The tops of leaves will become yellowish while a sooty mold will be underneath. When the cucumber vine is disturbed, these tiny, white insects disperse into a cloud of flying insects. Removing infested leaves can help curb their population and damage.
Spider mites, on the other hand, cause yellow stippling of the leaves that can eventually result in completely yellow, then bronze, leaves. You may notice web-like materials on the undersides of leaves.
In the case of either pest, spray a ready-to-use insecticidal soap over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves. Insecticidal soaps must come in contact with the pests to be effective. Repeat every other week as needed; some insecticidal soaps are safe enough to use up to the day of harvest.
Cucumber beetle infestations create other problems that create yellowing in plants like fusarium wilt. The green-yellow spotted cucumber beetle has a black head with black spots, while the striped cucumber beetle has black stripes on its wings. Both beetles attack the cucumber's foliage, runners and immature fruit, leaving holes or a skeletonized appearance. Remove the beetles by hand-picking and dumping into a container of soapy water.
Fungal Diseases
A few fungal diseases of cucumber can result in yellow leaves.
Fusarium wilt, a soil-borne fungal disease which can be carried by cucumber beetles, causes plants to become stunted and yellow; the runners die slowly. Fungicides are not effective against this disease. Dig up and destroy any infected plants. In future years, rotate crops and select disease-resistant cucumber varieties.
Downy mildew, another fungal disease, is caused by poor air circulation, wet and humid conditions, too much nitrogen fertilizer, weeds in the garden and lack of proper sunlight. Symptoms first appear as irregularly shaped yellow spots on the upper part of leaves and a powdery mold on the undersides. Thin out leaves and plants to improve air circulation to avoid the problem, avoid overhead irrigation and remove infected plants to reduce the risk of spread. When removing infected plants from the garden, be sure not to spread the disease through handling healthy plants or through infected tools. Sterilize your tools by wiping them off with alcohol before using them on unaffected plants and wash your hands. Many varieties of cucumbers are resistant to this common disease.
Nutritional and Environmental Issues
Cucumbers are heavy feeders, meaning they may need more fertilizer or organic matter in the soil than other veggies. Pale, yellowing leaves may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. If this is the case, apply 1 tablespoon of high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as 33-0-0, around each cucumber hill one week after blooms develop; repeat in three weeks. Water thoroughly after fertilizing.
Another issue may be low levels of sunlight reaching certain leaves. If the lower leaves are yellowing, consider clipping a few of the upper leaves on the vine to allow more sunlight and air circulation to this part of the plant.
General Care
Healthy plants are less susceptible to pests and diseases, although not immune. The ideal site for cucumbers is one with full sun and an extremely fertile, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Planting too early can cause issues, as well, as drastic changes in temperature from day to night can cause issues with plant production.
Arthropod Pests
Whiteflies and spider mites can cause the leaves of your cucumber vines to yellow, albeit differently.
Whiteflies congregate on the undersides of leaves. The tops of leaves will become yellowish while a sooty mold will be underneath. When the cucumber vine is disturbed, these tiny, white insects disperse into a cloud of flying insects. Removing infested leaves can help curb their population and damage.
Spider mites, on the other hand, cause yellow stippling of the leaves that can eventually result in completely yellow, then bronze, leaves. You may notice web-like materials on the undersides of leaves.
In the case of either pest, spray a ready-to-use insecticidal soap over the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves. Insecticidal soaps must come in contact with the pests to be effective. Repeat every other week as needed; some insecticidal soaps are safe enough to use up to the day of harvest.
Cucumber beetle infestations create other problems that create yellowing in plants like fusarium wilt. The green-yellow spotted cucumber beetle has a black head with black spots, while the striped cucumber beetle has black stripes on its wings. Both beetles attack the cucumber's foliage, runners and immature fruit, leaving holes or a skeletonized appearance. Remove the beetles by hand-picking and dumping into a container of soapy water.
Fungal Diseases
A few fungal diseases of cucumber can result in yellow leaves.
Fusarium wilt, a soil-borne fungal disease which can be carried by cucumber beetles, causes plants to become stunted and yellow; the runners die slowly. Fungicides are not effective against this disease. Dig up and destroy any infected plants. In future years, rotate crops and select disease-resistant cucumber varieties.
Downy mildew, another fungal disease, is caused by poor air circulation, wet and humid conditions, too much nitrogen fertilizer, weeds in the garden and lack of proper sunlight. Symptoms first appear as irregularly shaped yellow spots on the upper part of leaves and a powdery mold on the undersides. Thin out leaves and plants to improve air circulation to avoid the problem, avoid overhead irrigation and remove infected plants to reduce the risk of spread. When removing infected plants from the garden, be sure not to spread the disease through handling healthy plants or through infected tools. Sterilize your tools by wiping them off with alcohol before using them on unaffected plants and wash your hands. Many varieties of cucumbers are resistant to this common disease.
Nutritional and Environmental Issues
Cucumbers are heavy feeders, meaning they may need more fertilizer or organic matter in the soil than other veggies. Pale, yellowing leaves may be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. If this is the case, apply 1 tablespoon of high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as 33-0-0, around each cucumber hill one week after blooms develop; repeat in three weeks. Water thoroughly after fertilizing.
Another issue may be low levels of sunlight reaching certain leaves. If the lower leaves are yellowing, consider clipping a few of the upper leaves on the vine to allow more sunlight and air circulation to this part of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
The definition of a vegetable is any edible portion of a plant that does not include a sweet fruit or seed. Vegetables typically consist of leafy, root and stem sections of plants; however, some plants labeled as vegetables are fruits by botanical definition. These mislabeled fruits are plants that contain seeds, but for culinary purposes, are vegetables because the plants lack sweetness.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
A few bok choy (Brassica rapa var. chinensis) flowers before the harvest don't have to mean total failure. The flower stalks indicate the first stages of the end of life for this cool-season vegetable, meaning no more leaves for the harvest. When the first yellow flowers appear, you have a few options to make the best of the situation.
Harvest the Crop
When one or two bok choy plants send up a flower stalk, the rest of the plants generally aren't far behind. At this point, harvest the rest of the bok choy plants by cutting each plant at the base, slightly above the soil line, with a knife. Cut carefully away from yourself to avoid injury. Disinfect the harvest knife in hot, soapy water or a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water. Use bok choy fresh or store it in the refrigerator for two to three weeks.
Pick the Flowers
The bok choy's edible flowers taste best right before they open. If your bok choy crop is starting to produce elongated stalks and flowers from the center of each plant, pluck off the flower stalks and add them to salads. If the plant has only just begun to flower, you may still get a leaf crop. Pick a few leaves and taste them. If they're woody, pick the rest of the flowers and toss the plants on the compost pile. Otherwise, harvest the best tender leaves and flower stalks before discarding the plants.
Collect the Seeds
When bok choy flowers, you can harvest the seeds. Allow a group of plants to remain standing -- ideally two to three or more for pollination purposes -- until the flowers turn into seed pods. As the seeds mature, the pods turn from green to brown as they dry out. Cut off the pods and put them in a paper bag for a few weeks then break open the pods and dump the seeds into a separate paper bag. Store them in a dry spot until next planting season. Properly stored seeds can remain viable for up to five years.
Prevent Flowering
Bok choy bolts -- flowering and then going to seed -- rapidly in hot weather but you can slow the process by growing them from seed in late summer and early fall. In mild climates, plant bok choy in late fall and grow it through the winter. Bolting also occurs when optimal spring temperatures turn cold for a prolonged period and then suddenly warm again. Plants that are larger and more mature are affected the most by these changes in temperatures. You can even grow bok choy through the winter even in areas with mild frosts. Bolting is less likely to occur by planting transplants that haven't been stressed, keeping the garden weed-free and maintaining consistent water practices. Also, look for bolt-resistant varieties like "Joi-choi" and "Chin-Chiang." Before you plant, keep in mind that this plant can spread invasively in some areas.
Harvest the Crop
When one or two bok choy plants send up a flower stalk, the rest of the plants generally aren't far behind. At this point, harvest the rest of the bok choy plants by cutting each plant at the base, slightly above the soil line, with a knife. Cut carefully away from yourself to avoid injury. Disinfect the harvest knife in hot, soapy water or a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water. Use bok choy fresh or store it in the refrigerator for two to three weeks.
Pick the Flowers
The bok choy's edible flowers taste best right before they open. If your bok choy crop is starting to produce elongated stalks and flowers from the center of each plant, pluck off the flower stalks and add them to salads. If the plant has only just begun to flower, you may still get a leaf crop. Pick a few leaves and taste them. If they're woody, pick the rest of the flowers and toss the plants on the compost pile. Otherwise, harvest the best tender leaves and flower stalks before discarding the plants.
Collect the Seeds
When bok choy flowers, you can harvest the seeds. Allow a group of plants to remain standing -- ideally two to three or more for pollination purposes -- until the flowers turn into seed pods. As the seeds mature, the pods turn from green to brown as they dry out. Cut off the pods and put them in a paper bag for a few weeks then break open the pods and dump the seeds into a separate paper bag. Store them in a dry spot until next planting season. Properly stored seeds can remain viable for up to five years.
Prevent Flowering
Bok choy bolts -- flowering and then going to seed -- rapidly in hot weather but you can slow the process by growing them from seed in late summer and early fall. In mild climates, plant bok choy in late fall and grow it through the winter. Bolting also occurs when optimal spring temperatures turn cold for a prolonged period and then suddenly warm again. Plants that are larger and more mature are affected the most by these changes in temperatures. You can even grow bok choy through the winter even in areas with mild frosts. Bolting is less likely to occur by planting transplants that haven't been stressed, keeping the garden weed-free and maintaining consistent water practices. Also, look for bolt-resistant varieties like "Joi-choi" and "Chin-Chiang." Before you plant, keep in mind that this plant can spread invasively in some areas.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
A salad vegetable grown in almost every garden, leaf lettuce is also called loose-leaf lettuce. Some types of lettuce you may plant include romaine or cos with their upright, long heads, small, soft butterhead varieties, crisphead or iceberg lettuce, and asparagus or stem lettuce. Knowing how to trim your lettuces while still growing them in your garden or after harvesting will help your lettuce last longer and increase the quality, flavor and presentation of your produce.
Step 1
Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level.
Step 2
Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks. "Cut-and-come-again" represents this process of growing continuous harvests of lettuce, meaning that you do not have to wait until harvest time to enjoy your produce.
Step 3
Cut off all brown leaf tissue, called "tipburn," from your lettuce. Tipburn is a disease where the tips and edges of the leaves decay from uneven watering during the high temperatures of summer. The rest of the lettuce will not be harmed when you remove the leaves with tipburn. Prevent tipburn by watering your lettuce lightly but frequently to keep the soil evenly moist.
Step 4
Trim soft lettuces after harvesting by removing damaged, discolored leaves. Soft lettuces include butter lettuce, Bibb and leaf lettuce.
Step 5
Tear lettuce leaves into bite-size pieces when preparing them for a meal ahead of time rather than cutting them with a metal knife; otherwise, the lettuce leaf edges will rapidly become brown. Ascorbic acid oxidase also releases when you cut or chop lettuce with a knife, destroying its vitamin C content.
Step 6
Trim the butt of crisphead lettuce, like iceberg lettuce, to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the bottom leaf when preparing lettuce for public exhibits, such as vegetable shows. Trim the heads of Bibb lettuce varieties and romaine lettuces by removing damaged, old leaves. Briefly soak the lettuces in water, spray them carefully with water, and then store the lettuces in a dry, cool area until ready for the vegetable show.
Step 1
Use sharp garden scissors or shears to trim 2 to 4 inches from your lettuce leaves in the garden when they have grown 6 to 10 inches tall or cut your lettuce carefully to the crown, or the point where the lettuce root joins the stem at ground level.
Step 2
Fertilize and water your lettuce greens after trimming; your lettuce greens will regrow and be ready for trimming again after two to three weeks. "Cut-and-come-again" represents this process of growing continuous harvests of lettuce, meaning that you do not have to wait until harvest time to enjoy your produce.
Step 3
Cut off all brown leaf tissue, called "tipburn," from your lettuce. Tipburn is a disease where the tips and edges of the leaves decay from uneven watering during the high temperatures of summer. The rest of the lettuce will not be harmed when you remove the leaves with tipburn. Prevent tipburn by watering your lettuce lightly but frequently to keep the soil evenly moist.
Step 4
Trim soft lettuces after harvesting by removing damaged, discolored leaves. Soft lettuces include butter lettuce, Bibb and leaf lettuce.
Step 5
Tear lettuce leaves into bite-size pieces when preparing them for a meal ahead of time rather than cutting them with a metal knife; otherwise, the lettuce leaf edges will rapidly become brown. Ascorbic acid oxidase also releases when you cut or chop lettuce with a knife, destroying its vitamin C content.
Step 6
Trim the butt of crisphead lettuce, like iceberg lettuce, to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the bottom leaf when preparing lettuce for public exhibits, such as vegetable shows. Trim the heads of Bibb lettuce varieties and romaine lettuces by removing damaged, old leaves. Briefly soak the lettuces in water, spray them carefully with water, and then store the lettuces in a dry, cool area until ready for the vegetable show.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.
Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.
Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.
Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.
Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
The vegetable called broccoli found at markets is the immature flower heads of the plant Brassica oleracea var. italica. Broccoli is related to cabbage and other members of the cole family. High in vitamin A and D, broccoli makes a healthy addition to the vegetable garden. Broccoli grows during the cool weather in spring and fall. In cool climates, broccoli grows well in summer.
Seed Germination
Broccoli is an annual vegetable plant. The first step in the growing season is seed germination. Start broccoli seeds indoors in individual 3-inch pots six weeks before the last spring frost date. Broccoli seeds take one to two weeks to germinate. Keep broccoli seeds at 80 degrees F during germination. Use a heating pad under the seed flat, or keep the seeds in a greenhouse where the temperature is consistently 80 degrees F.
Plant Development
Seedling development takes three to four weeks after the seeds germinate. During seedling development, broccoli plants develop roots and their first leaves. Once the seedlings emerge from the soil, remove them from the heating pad and place them in an area where the air temperature is between 60 and 65 degrees F. Keep broccoli seedlings indoors until they are four weeks old. Water the seedlings by soaking each pot when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Always use pots with drainage holes in the bottom. Standing water around the young, developing broccoli roots causes rot and seedling death.
Early and Mature Harvest Flowering Tops
Broccoli develops a stalk and mature leaves before producing the flowering top. Broccoli plants mature for harvest in 50 to 65 days after planting. Transplant broccoli as early as possible in spring after the last frost date and when the soil temperature warms to 60 or 65 degrees F. Use a soil thermometer to determine the soil temperature before planting out the seedlings. Keep the soil damp around the developing broccoli plants and remove weeds by hand.
Harvest and Seed Collection
The last stage of growth before harvest is the development of flower heads. Harvest broccoli when the flower heads are 6 to 8 inches across and compact, with tightly closed green buds. Developing broccoli heads can be harvested at any point. The final stage of broccoli development is the flower and seed development. Any broccoli that is allowed to go to seed will not be harvestable. Allow a few plants to go to seed for next year's crop. Harvest the seed pods when they dry and turn brown on the plant. Till the old plant material into the soil in the fall after the last harvest.
Seed Germination
Broccoli is an annual vegetable plant. The first step in the growing season is seed germination. Start broccoli seeds indoors in individual 3-inch pots six weeks before the last spring frost date. Broccoli seeds take one to two weeks to germinate. Keep broccoli seeds at 80 degrees F during germination. Use a heating pad under the seed flat, or keep the seeds in a greenhouse where the temperature is consistently 80 degrees F.
Plant Development
Seedling development takes three to four weeks after the seeds germinate. During seedling development, broccoli plants develop roots and their first leaves. Once the seedlings emerge from the soil, remove them from the heating pad and place them in an area where the air temperature is between 60 and 65 degrees F. Keep broccoli seedlings indoors until they are four weeks old. Water the seedlings by soaking each pot when the top of the soil begins to feel dry. Always use pots with drainage holes in the bottom. Standing water around the young, developing broccoli roots causes rot and seedling death.
Early and Mature Harvest Flowering Tops
Broccoli develops a stalk and mature leaves before producing the flowering top. Broccoli plants mature for harvest in 50 to 65 days after planting. Transplant broccoli as early as possible in spring after the last frost date and when the soil temperature warms to 60 or 65 degrees F. Use a soil thermometer to determine the soil temperature before planting out the seedlings. Keep the soil damp around the developing broccoli plants and remove weeds by hand.
Harvest and Seed Collection
The last stage of growth before harvest is the development of flower heads. Harvest broccoli when the flower heads are 6 to 8 inches across and compact, with tightly closed green buds. Developing broccoli heads can be harvested at any point. The final stage of broccoli development is the flower and seed development. Any broccoli that is allowed to go to seed will not be harvestable. Allow a few plants to go to seed for next year's crop. Harvest the seed pods when they dry and turn brown on the plant. Till the old plant material into the soil in the fall after the last harvest.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Broccoli is a healthy green vegetable whose reputation often makes it out to be scarier than it is. A flexible vegetable, it can be served raw, steamed, baked into a casserole or stir-fried; the possibilities are nearly endless, and planting some in the backyard can mean added freshness and taste. Because of a relatively short growing period, some areas can support more than one broccoli crop.
Types
Different varieties of broccoli have different growing times, but most are around 60 days from planting in the garden to harvesting the broccoli. This equation assumes plants are started from seed and allowed approximately 30 days growing time inside. The "Green Goliath" takes about 60 days to mature, but is also one of the more hardy options to plant. Because it is tolerant of heat and cold, plants can go into the outdoor garden earlier than some other types. The short growing season also allows for the late planting of a fall crop, and because of its cold hardiness the Green Goliath is also well-suited to late plantings.
Other types, such as the "Green Comet," are less hardy but have a shorter growing time of about 55 days from transplant to maturity.
Starting Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be planted indoors to give plants a head start before being moved out into the elements outside. Germination and the growth of young plants is most successful when the temperature is consistent and kept between 60 and 70 Fahrenheit. Plant seedlings in a large, flat container approximately an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch below the soil. Placing a light material such as cheesecloth over the seeds will establish enough of a barrier that they will be encouraged to grow unhindered outwards rather than upwards while still allowing light to reach them. Tall, leggy plants will not produce the stout, rounded broccoli crowns that are most desirable, and keeping plants short will help ensure healthy, compact crowns.
Seeds can be started in trays can kept indoors for between 25 and 35 days. Depending on the area and outdoor climate, plan to transplant seeds when there is no more danger of freezing temperatures or frost.
Transplanting
By the time seedlings are transplanted, they should be approximately but not more than 4 inches tall. Once they are planted in the garden, it will take approximately two months for them to reach maturity. During this time, fertilizing once (about three weeks after transplanting) with nitrogen and keeping the soil moist can help to ensure maximum growth rate.
Alternately, the seedlings can also be planted using not only water but a mixture of water and 5-10-10 fertilizer.
Multiple Crops
Because broccoli is tolerant of cool weather as well as warm and can be started inside, in many temperate areas, it is possible to plant three broccoli crops in a single season.
For example, starting the first seeds in March will allow for transplanting in April, with a crop harvested in the beginning of June. Starting another crop of seeds indoors in the beginning of May will create seedlings ready to plant in June and harvest in August. Repeating the process -- starting seeds in July, transplanting after the August harvest and finishing the last harvest in the beginning of October -- will allow gardeners to get in several crops.
Types
Different varieties of broccoli have different growing times, but most are around 60 days from planting in the garden to harvesting the broccoli. This equation assumes plants are started from seed and allowed approximately 30 days growing time inside. The "Green Goliath" takes about 60 days to mature, but is also one of the more hardy options to plant. Because it is tolerant of heat and cold, plants can go into the outdoor garden earlier than some other types. The short growing season also allows for the late planting of a fall crop, and because of its cold hardiness the Green Goliath is also well-suited to late plantings.
Other types, such as the "Green Comet," are less hardy but have a shorter growing time of about 55 days from transplant to maturity.
Starting Seeds
Broccoli seeds can be planted indoors to give plants a head start before being moved out into the elements outside. Germination and the growth of young plants is most successful when the temperature is consistent and kept between 60 and 70 Fahrenheit. Plant seedlings in a large, flat container approximately an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch below the soil. Placing a light material such as cheesecloth over the seeds will establish enough of a barrier that they will be encouraged to grow unhindered outwards rather than upwards while still allowing light to reach them. Tall, leggy plants will not produce the stout, rounded broccoli crowns that are most desirable, and keeping plants short will help ensure healthy, compact crowns.
Seeds can be started in trays can kept indoors for between 25 and 35 days. Depending on the area and outdoor climate, plan to transplant seeds when there is no more danger of freezing temperatures or frost.
Transplanting
By the time seedlings are transplanted, they should be approximately but not more than 4 inches tall. Once they are planted in the garden, it will take approximately two months for them to reach maturity. During this time, fertilizing once (about three weeks after transplanting) with nitrogen and keeping the soil moist can help to ensure maximum growth rate.
Alternately, the seedlings can also be planted using not only water but a mixture of water and 5-10-10 fertilizer.
Multiple Crops
Because broccoli is tolerant of cool weather as well as warm and can be started inside, in many temperate areas, it is possible to plant three broccoli crops in a single season.
For example, starting the first seeds in March will allow for transplanting in April, with a crop harvested in the beginning of June. Starting another crop of seeds indoors in the beginning of May will create seedlings ready to plant in June and harvest in August. Repeating the process -- starting seeds in July, transplanting after the August harvest and finishing the last harvest in the beginning of October -- will allow gardeners to get in several crops.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
As a vegetable gardener, you're probably familiar with the good feeling most gardeners get from harvesting their own crops. It's disappointing, though, to see garden produce such as green peppers (Capsicum spp.) develop black areas and stop growing when they're only partially formed. Several problems can cause blackening of pepper fruits. So identifying the specific cause is an important first step in dealing with the problem and saving the remaining crop.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
Plant Diseases
Peppers usually are grown as annual plants in all parts of the United States, but they are perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Whether grown as annuals or perennials, they thrive in well-drained soil and full-sun exposure.
Most pepper types, including bell pepper (Capsicum annuum), a common type, start setting fruits about six weeks after they are planted. The fruits gradually enlarge and, depending on the variety, may stay green or turn yellow, orange or red when fully mature. Although usually trouble-free plants, peppers can be susceptible to plant diseases that may damage and discolor their fruits.
Fungal Problems
Several fungal disorders can cause ripening pepper fruits to develop black spots. One of the disorders is anthracnose, which leads to round lesions on pepper fruits; the lesions sometimes have black rings in their center and can enlarge enough to cover and collapse entire fruits. Another fungal disease, called Phytophthora blight, also can cause black areas on pepper fruits, with those areas eventually covering entire fruits. Phytophthora blight also produces black areas on pepper plant stems and overall wilting of the plants.
The best way to prevent fungal problems is to inspect transplants carefully and choose only those without any wilted or damaged leaves. Also, choose varieties certified as disease-resistant. Water the plants at their bases to keep their foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal growth, and space the plants at least 18 to 24 inches apart to give them good air circulation.
Once you see signs of a fungal problem in a pepper plant, you might be able to save the plant by pruning away and discarding its affected parts, cutting behind diseased areas and into healthy tissue with sharp shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading the disease. If the entire plant is affected, discard it to prevent the fungus' spread to other plants. It's also helpful to rotate planting areas because fungi live in the soil and can reinfect the next year's crop.
Viral Infection
An infection caused by the tomato spotted wilt virus may cause light-colored rings on pepper fruits, and the rings may slowly turn black. The affected plant's leaves become bronze-colored and wilt, and a severely infected plant could die. This virus is spread by a thrip, a tan or yellowish brown insect about 1/25th inch long. If thrips or tomato spotted wilt virus symptoms appear on a pepper plant, then mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on all parts of the plant until they are dripping wet. Use the spray on a windless day when the temperature is at or below 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If an entire plant shows symptoms of the virus, it's best to discard it.
Blossom End-Rot
A problem called blossom end-rot also can produce black spots on pepper fruits. Each spot looks sunken and rotted, and it appears on the fruit's blossom end -- not the fruit's stem end. If you see a small, black spot on an otherwise healthy pepper fruit, then it's fine to pick the fruit and use its unaffected areas, but discard its blackened end. If, though, the damage involves most of a fruit, then pick and discard that fruit, allowing the plant to put its energy into other, healthy fruits.
Blossom end-rot develops when the soil is poor in calcium or when plants have difficulty using the calcium that's present. The best way to prevent the problem is to avoid moisture stress to the plants by ensuring they get at least 1 inch of water weekly. Add about a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface under each pepper plant to conserve soil moisture, keeping the mulch back a bit from every plant's center to discourage fungus.
If you encounter blossom end-rot in your pepper plants, check their soil's pH level with a soil test kit before the next growing season, ensuring that it's pH 6.5 to 6.8, a level that helps make soil calcium available to the plants. If necessary, pre-treat the soil the next spring as recommended in the soil test result. If, for example, the soil's pH is 7.5, then add 1 1/5 pounds of aluminum sulfate for each 10 square feet of area to lower the soil's pH to 6.5.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is winter hardy and perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12, but in most parts of the country it is grown as an annual garden vegetable. It is not tolerant of cold temperatures, and for good fruit development, it requires a long frost-free growing season. The plant is thought to have originated in India more than 1,500 years ago and to have come to North America with Spanish explorers sometime before the 19th century.
Seedlings
Eggplant seeds take one to two weeks to germinate after they're planted, and seedlings will be big and sturdy enough to transplant outdoors within six to 10 weeks after germination. Young plants are vulnerable to damage from frost and cold temperatures, so seedlings shouldn't be transplanted until the soil is warm, nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and all danger of frost has passed.
Mature Plants
Mature plants are relatively large with branching stems, and their large leaves are oval-shaped or lobed, with a hairy, sometimes spiny, texture. Most eggplant varieties grow to a height of between 2 and 4 feet and may need support from a stake or cage when they're laden with heavy fruit. Some varieties, however, are compact and remain less than 2 feet tall.
In mid-summer, plants bloom with star-shaped purple flowers which occur either singly or in clusters of two blossoms.
The optimal daytime temperature for the plant's growth is between 70 and 85 degrees F, and if temperatures are above 95 degrees F, flowers and fruit may not develop properly.
Fruit Development
The flowers develop into fruit that, depending on the cultivar, vary in size, color and shape. The varieties traditionally grown in the United States produce fruit that is oval or pear-shaped and up to approximately 9 inches long, with a thick purple-black skin and dense white inner flesh. Varieties known as Asian, Chinese or Japanese eggplant produce fruit that is more elongated and slender. The fruit of other cultivars may be white, green, light purple or striped.
Eggplant fruit is ready for harvest when its skin is smooth and shiny and its flesh is firm. Fruit with dull or wrinkled skin or soft flesh is over-ripe; at this stage, the fruit's skin will be tough and its flavor likely bitter. Mature fruit is typically ready to harvest about 70 days after the plants have been set in the garden.
Seedlings
Eggplant seeds take one to two weeks to germinate after they're planted, and seedlings will be big and sturdy enough to transplant outdoors within six to 10 weeks after germination. Young plants are vulnerable to damage from frost and cold temperatures, so seedlings shouldn't be transplanted until the soil is warm, nighttime temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and all danger of frost has passed.
Mature Plants
Mature plants are relatively large with branching stems, and their large leaves are oval-shaped or lobed, with a hairy, sometimes spiny, texture. Most eggplant varieties grow to a height of between 2 and 4 feet and may need support from a stake or cage when they're laden with heavy fruit. Some varieties, however, are compact and remain less than 2 feet tall.
In mid-summer, plants bloom with star-shaped purple flowers which occur either singly or in clusters of two blossoms.
The optimal daytime temperature for the plant's growth is between 70 and 85 degrees F, and if temperatures are above 95 degrees F, flowers and fruit may not develop properly.
Fruit Development
The flowers develop into fruit that, depending on the cultivar, vary in size, color and shape. The varieties traditionally grown in the United States produce fruit that is oval or pear-shaped and up to approximately 9 inches long, with a thick purple-black skin and dense white inner flesh. Varieties known as Asian, Chinese or Japanese eggplant produce fruit that is more elongated and slender. The fruit of other cultivars may be white, green, light purple or striped.
Eggplant fruit is ready for harvest when its skin is smooth and shiny and its flesh is firm. Fruit with dull or wrinkled skin or soft flesh is over-ripe; at this stage, the fruit's skin will be tough and its flavor likely bitter. Mature fruit is typically ready to harvest about 70 days after the plants have been set in the garden.
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