文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月27日
Leafy cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a vegetable grown for its densely packed heads. Some can be quite beautiful. They are classified by head shape, round and flat-head being the most commonly seen. There are cabbages with smooth leaves and pronounced veins and some with crinkled, or savoyed, leaves. You'll find cabbages in shades of white, green, and purple, and the flavor varies by variety. There are even ornamental cabbage varieties bred for their looks, not their flavor.
Cabbage is in the Brassica genus along with broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops. Cabbages are some of the most popular vegetables to grow, although most home gardeners tend to grow a small fraction of the hundreds of varieties available.
Cabbage plants are moderately fast growers and typically are ready to harvest about two months after the seedlings emerge or are transplanted in the garden. They are biennial plants that are typically grown as annuals. These are cool-weather plants that grow best in late-summer to fall in most climates. They can also be planted in spring.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea
Common Name Cabbage, Head cabbage
Plant Type Biennial (typically grown as annual)
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral (above 6.8)
Bloom Time Typically does not flower
Flower Color Typically does not flower
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Cabbage
Cabbage plants can grow in cool weather, so you can get an early start on the season. They can also be re-seeded throughout the summer, provided the temperature isn't to high, to provide a continual harvest of heads as you need them, rather than having them all mature at the same time.
There are cabbage seedlings available at every garden center in spring, but for the best variety you will need to start yours from seed. Luckily that's easy to do. You can start seeds indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before your last expected frost date. Because cabbages can handle a little frost, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date, as long as the soil is workable. Later plantings can be direct sown in the garden.
Plant transplants, or thin direct-sown seedlings, to a spacing of about 1 to 2 feet.
Cabbage Care
Light
Cabbage plants can handle full sun to light shade. Since cabbage plants are not setting flowers or fruit, they do not need a full day of sun. Gardeners in warmer climates will want to provide some shade during hot months, so the plants do not dry out.
Soil
Cabbages need a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. To help prevent a common cabbage disease called club root that is most prevalent in acidic soil, keep the soil pH above 6.8.
Water
The biggest maintenance issue when growing cabbages is keeping them watered. Watering is also the key to preventing the heads from splitting. You want the cabbage heads to fill out, but not so quickly they burst open.
Temperature and Humidity
Cabbages do best in the relative cool of spring and fall and begin to suffer when daily temperatures stay around 80 Fahrenheit and above. Afternoon shade is recommended during the high heat of summer.
Fertilizer
Cabbages can be heavy feeders, and side-dressing with compost every three weeks will keep the soil rich.
Cabbage Varieties
'Drumhead' has deeply savoyed leaves and a wonderful savory crunch.
'Early Jersey Wakefield' is a classic cabbage that has been popular for years.
'January King' is a beautiful purple and green cabbage that is extremely frost-hardy.
'Murdoc' has a pointed head and tender, sweet leaves.
'Red Acre' and 'Red Delight' are early, easy-to-grow purple varieties.
Harvesting
The length of time a cabbage takes to mature will vary by variety, but most require about 50 to 60 days from transplant. Harvest when the head forms fully (depending on the variety) and they are firm to the touch. If you leave the heads on the plants for too long, they may split.
You can remove the entire plant, or cut off the head at its base and leave the wide, outer leaves and roots in the ground for a second harvest; keep just a few of the new heads and let them grow to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter before harvesting.
Cabbages can be stored for months in a root cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing.
Common Pests and Diseases
Unfortunately, there are many problems that plague cabbage. Cabbage worms and cabbage loopers are the main pest threats. They will munch holes throughout the leaves. Their coloring allows them to blend in with the cabbage, but they can be handpicked easily if you can see them. Slugs will also attack your cabbages as will cutworms.
Diseases include club root; a fungus called blackleg that causes dark spots on the stems and leaves; black rot, which affects the veins, making them dark and foul-smelling; and the yellows (fusarium wilt), which leaves you with stunted, yellow heads.
Once your cabbages are infected, there's not much you can do. You have to prevent these diseases by choosing disease-resistant varieties and by not growing cabbages in the same spot year after year. The fungus spores can remain in the soil over winter and reinfect new plantings.
Another preventative measure is to never leave cabbage debris, or any cole crop debris, in the garden over winter. Once again, the spores can linger and over-winter, waiting to reinfect next year's plants.
Cabbage is in the Brassica genus along with broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops. Cabbages are some of the most popular vegetables to grow, although most home gardeners tend to grow a small fraction of the hundreds of varieties available.
Cabbage plants are moderately fast growers and typically are ready to harvest about two months after the seedlings emerge or are transplanted in the garden. They are biennial plants that are typically grown as annuals. These are cool-weather plants that grow best in late-summer to fall in most climates. They can also be planted in spring.
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea
Common Name Cabbage, Head cabbage
Plant Type Biennial (typically grown as annual)
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral (above 6.8)
Bloom Time Typically does not flower
Flower Color Typically does not flower
Hardiness Zones 2 to 11
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Cabbage
Cabbage plants can grow in cool weather, so you can get an early start on the season. They can also be re-seeded throughout the summer, provided the temperature isn't to high, to provide a continual harvest of heads as you need them, rather than having them all mature at the same time.
There are cabbage seedlings available at every garden center in spring, but for the best variety you will need to start yours from seed. Luckily that's easy to do. You can start seeds indoors about 6 to 10 weeks before your last expected frost date. Because cabbages can handle a little frost, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors a couple of weeks before your last frost date, as long as the soil is workable. Later plantings can be direct sown in the garden.
Plant transplants, or thin direct-sown seedlings, to a spacing of about 1 to 2 feet.
Cabbage Care
Light
Cabbage plants can handle full sun to light shade. Since cabbage plants are not setting flowers or fruit, they do not need a full day of sun. Gardeners in warmer climates will want to provide some shade during hot months, so the plants do not dry out.
Soil
Cabbages need a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. To help prevent a common cabbage disease called club root that is most prevalent in acidic soil, keep the soil pH above 6.8.
Water
The biggest maintenance issue when growing cabbages is keeping them watered. Watering is also the key to preventing the heads from splitting. You want the cabbage heads to fill out, but not so quickly they burst open.
Temperature and Humidity
Cabbages do best in the relative cool of spring and fall and begin to suffer when daily temperatures stay around 80 Fahrenheit and above. Afternoon shade is recommended during the high heat of summer.
Fertilizer
Cabbages can be heavy feeders, and side-dressing with compost every three weeks will keep the soil rich.
Cabbage Varieties
'Drumhead' has deeply savoyed leaves and a wonderful savory crunch.
'Early Jersey Wakefield' is a classic cabbage that has been popular for years.
'January King' is a beautiful purple and green cabbage that is extremely frost-hardy.
'Murdoc' has a pointed head and tender, sweet leaves.
'Red Acre' and 'Red Delight' are early, easy-to-grow purple varieties.
Harvesting
The length of time a cabbage takes to mature will vary by variety, but most require about 50 to 60 days from transplant. Harvest when the head forms fully (depending on the variety) and they are firm to the touch. If you leave the heads on the plants for too long, they may split.
You can remove the entire plant, or cut off the head at its base and leave the wide, outer leaves and roots in the ground for a second harvest; keep just a few of the new heads and let them grow to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter before harvesting.
Cabbages can be stored for months in a root cellar where the temperature is between 45 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing.
Common Pests and Diseases
Unfortunately, there are many problems that plague cabbage. Cabbage worms and cabbage loopers are the main pest threats. They will munch holes throughout the leaves. Their coloring allows them to blend in with the cabbage, but they can be handpicked easily if you can see them. Slugs will also attack your cabbages as will cutworms.
Diseases include club root; a fungus called blackleg that causes dark spots on the stems and leaves; black rot, which affects the veins, making them dark and foul-smelling; and the yellows (fusarium wilt), which leaves you with stunted, yellow heads.
Once your cabbages are infected, there's not much you can do. You have to prevent these diseases by choosing disease-resistant varieties and by not growing cabbages in the same spot year after year. The fungus spores can remain in the soil over winter and reinfect new plantings.
Another preventative measure is to never leave cabbage debris, or any cole crop debris, in the garden over winter. Once again, the spores can linger and over-winter, waiting to reinfect next year's plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月05日
Although Brussel sprouts date back to ancient Rome, they're named for the city of Brussels, Belgium, where they have been enjoyed since the 14th century. Part of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts can be grown in just about any home vegetable garden as long as you have patience—they are slow-growing plants that require a long growing season.
If you seen Brussels sprouts only in the grocery store, you will delight in the striking appearance of their plant form: The numerous mini cabbage heads form along thick, 30-inch-tall stalks, along with bold, jutting stems and broad, cabbage-like leaves. The leaves are also edible and can be prepared like other hardy greens.
Like other vegetables in the Brassicaceae family, Brussels sprouts taste best after they have been subjected to cool weather. Usually, that means harvesting after a light frost or a snow. In cooler climates, they are best planted in early summer for a fall harvest. In warmer climates, they should be planted in late summer for a late fall or winter harvest.
Common Name Brussels sprouts
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera group)
Family Brassicaceae
Plant Type Annual vegetable
Size 30 in. tall, 8 to 12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral (6.5 to 7)
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 2 to 9
Native Area Mediterranean
How to Plant Brussels Sprouts
Brussels sprouts require a long growing season of 80 days or more, and they improve in flavor after being subjected to a light frost. In colder climates, you can start brussels sprouts seeds indoors around early May, and transplant the seedlings to the garden in mid-June, or about four months before the first fall frost. Plant only after the last spring frost. Be sure to allow the full time outdoors for required days to harvest. In warmer climates, fall planting is preferred. You should be able to direct seed in mid-summer for a late fall or early winter harvest.
Brussels Sprouts Care
Light
The plants will grow and sprout best in full sun and need at least 6 hours of sun daily. Too much shade will slow the sprouts' maturity.
Soil
Brussels sprouts like a slightly acidic to neutral soil that is fertile, well-drained and moist, with plenty of organic matter. The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7. A good amount of organic matter will help maintain the moisture they need for their intense growth.
Brussels sprouts like the soil around them to be firm, but not compacted. Pat it down lightly.
Water
Keep the sprouts' soil moist but not soaked, giving it between 1 and 1.5 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Brussels sprouts prefer temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They'll tolerate a couple of days below freezing, and even improve their flavor with a bit of light frost. This is not a warm-weather crop—sprouts that mature during hot or dry weather will be bitter and flimsy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Brussels sprout plants twice a season with a nitrogen fertilizer—once when the plants are about 12 inches high and again four weeks later.
Types of Brussels Sprouts
'Bubbles' F1 (85 to 90 days to maturity): This variety tolerates heat and drought, and grows 2-inch sprouts that are resistant to powdery mildew and rust.
'Jade Cross' F1 and "Jade Cross E" F1 (90 days): Jade Cross was a 1959 All-America Selections Winner. Both are compact plants that are good for windy locations. The sprouts are slightly larger on 'Jade Cross E.' Good disease-resistance.
'Long Island Improved'OP (90 days): This variety is another small but high-yield plant that stands up to wind and tolerates freezing.
'Oliver' F1 (85 days): An early producer, the 1-inch sprouts are easy to pick and the compact plant is disease-resistant.
'Royal Marvel' F1 (85 days): ''Royal Marvel' is an early and productive plant that is resistant to bottom rot and tip burn.
'Rubine' (85 to 95 days): These heirloom purple plants are late-maturing and lower-yield than green varieties but have good flavor.
Harvesting
Brussels sprouts take about three to four months from transplant before you can begin harvesting. They grow tall first and don't start producing sprouts until they reach almost full height. Each sprout grows in the leaf axil or joint. They begin maturing from the bottom of the plant upward. Start harvesting when the lower sprouts reach the size of large marbles. Pick the sprouts before they get too large and start cracking and turning bitter.
Pulling off the sprouts is easier if you remove the leaf below the sprout first, then twist and pull the sprout. Some people prefer to cut, rather than pull the sprouts. Each plant yields approximately a quart of sprouts total.
After harvesting, a second crop of Brussels sprouts may begin to grow at the base of the stem. These will not be as tight as the first buds, but they are still edible. The leafy tops are also edible and can be cooked as greens. Cutting the tops is a good way to speed up the development of the remaining sprouts, at the end of the season.
To extend your Brussels sprouts harvest in cold seasons, mulch plants with straw and/or cover with a row cover for protection. Whole plants can be pulled, potted and stored in a root cellar. Bare root plants stored in a cool cellar will give you an additional two to three weeks of harvest.
How to Grow Brussels Sprouts From Seed
If you live in an area with cold winters, start your seeds indoors about two to three weeks before the last spring frost. For areas with mild winters, start the seeds outdoors in the early to mid-summer for a mid-fall or early winter harvest. If you live in a region with warm winters—where temperatures are rarely below freezing—start seeds outdoors in the late summer for a mid- to late-winter harvest. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil, and keep the soil moist.
Space seeds for outdoor plants about 2 feet apart with 3 feet between rows, or stagger plants 2 feet apart in each direction, for a grid layout. When the plants are about 6 inches tall, thin them as needed to a spacing of 12 to 24 inches.
Transplant indoor seedlings to the garden when they are about 3 inches tall. It is very important that you do not allow the seedlings to become root bound or the plants will remain stunted when transplanted.
Common Pests and Diseases
Brussels sprouts are prone to the same problems as cabbage and broccoli. The most common pests are cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, and Harlequin bug. Because this is a late-season crop, you have time to monitor for problems before the sprouts start forming.
Diseases include blackleg, black rot, and clubroot. Disease control is best achieved by rotating the crop each year. Clubroot is diminished when you raise the soil pH to about 7.0.
If you seen Brussels sprouts only in the grocery store, you will delight in the striking appearance of their plant form: The numerous mini cabbage heads form along thick, 30-inch-tall stalks, along with bold, jutting stems and broad, cabbage-like leaves. The leaves are also edible and can be prepared like other hardy greens.
Like other vegetables in the Brassicaceae family, Brussels sprouts taste best after they have been subjected to cool weather. Usually, that means harvesting after a light frost or a snow. In cooler climates, they are best planted in early summer for a fall harvest. In warmer climates, they should be planted in late summer for a late fall or winter harvest.
Common Name Brussels sprouts
Botanical Name Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera group)
Family Brassicaceae
Plant Type Annual vegetable
Size 30 in. tall, 8 to 12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Neutral (6.5 to 7)
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zones 2 to 9
Native Area Mediterranean
How to Plant Brussels Sprouts
Brussels sprouts require a long growing season of 80 days or more, and they improve in flavor after being subjected to a light frost. In colder climates, you can start brussels sprouts seeds indoors around early May, and transplant the seedlings to the garden in mid-June, or about four months before the first fall frost. Plant only after the last spring frost. Be sure to allow the full time outdoors for required days to harvest. In warmer climates, fall planting is preferred. You should be able to direct seed in mid-summer for a late fall or early winter harvest.
Brussels Sprouts Care
Light
The plants will grow and sprout best in full sun and need at least 6 hours of sun daily. Too much shade will slow the sprouts' maturity.
Soil
Brussels sprouts like a slightly acidic to neutral soil that is fertile, well-drained and moist, with plenty of organic matter. The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7. A good amount of organic matter will help maintain the moisture they need for their intense growth.
Brussels sprouts like the soil around them to be firm, but not compacted. Pat it down lightly.
Water
Keep the sprouts' soil moist but not soaked, giving it between 1 and 1.5 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Brussels sprouts prefer temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They'll tolerate a couple of days below freezing, and even improve their flavor with a bit of light frost. This is not a warm-weather crop—sprouts that mature during hot or dry weather will be bitter and flimsy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Brussels sprout plants twice a season with a nitrogen fertilizer—once when the plants are about 12 inches high and again four weeks later.
Types of Brussels Sprouts
'Bubbles' F1 (85 to 90 days to maturity): This variety tolerates heat and drought, and grows 2-inch sprouts that are resistant to powdery mildew and rust.
'Jade Cross' F1 and "Jade Cross E" F1 (90 days): Jade Cross was a 1959 All-America Selections Winner. Both are compact plants that are good for windy locations. The sprouts are slightly larger on 'Jade Cross E.' Good disease-resistance.
'Long Island Improved'OP (90 days): This variety is another small but high-yield plant that stands up to wind and tolerates freezing.
'Oliver' F1 (85 days): An early producer, the 1-inch sprouts are easy to pick and the compact plant is disease-resistant.
'Royal Marvel' F1 (85 days): ''Royal Marvel' is an early and productive plant that is resistant to bottom rot and tip burn.
'Rubine' (85 to 95 days): These heirloom purple plants are late-maturing and lower-yield than green varieties but have good flavor.
Harvesting
Brussels sprouts take about three to four months from transplant before you can begin harvesting. They grow tall first and don't start producing sprouts until they reach almost full height. Each sprout grows in the leaf axil or joint. They begin maturing from the bottom of the plant upward. Start harvesting when the lower sprouts reach the size of large marbles. Pick the sprouts before they get too large and start cracking and turning bitter.
Pulling off the sprouts is easier if you remove the leaf below the sprout first, then twist and pull the sprout. Some people prefer to cut, rather than pull the sprouts. Each plant yields approximately a quart of sprouts total.
After harvesting, a second crop of Brussels sprouts may begin to grow at the base of the stem. These will not be as tight as the first buds, but they are still edible. The leafy tops are also edible and can be cooked as greens. Cutting the tops is a good way to speed up the development of the remaining sprouts, at the end of the season.
To extend your Brussels sprouts harvest in cold seasons, mulch plants with straw and/or cover with a row cover for protection. Whole plants can be pulled, potted and stored in a root cellar. Bare root plants stored in a cool cellar will give you an additional two to three weeks of harvest.
How to Grow Brussels Sprouts From Seed
If you live in an area with cold winters, start your seeds indoors about two to three weeks before the last spring frost. For areas with mild winters, start the seeds outdoors in the early to mid-summer for a mid-fall or early winter harvest. If you live in a region with warm winters—where temperatures are rarely below freezing—start seeds outdoors in the late summer for a mid- to late-winter harvest. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil, and keep the soil moist.
Space seeds for outdoor plants about 2 feet apart with 3 feet between rows, or stagger plants 2 feet apart in each direction, for a grid layout. When the plants are about 6 inches tall, thin them as needed to a spacing of 12 to 24 inches.
Transplant indoor seedlings to the garden when they are about 3 inches tall. It is very important that you do not allow the seedlings to become root bound or the plants will remain stunted when transplanted.
Common Pests and Diseases
Brussels sprouts are prone to the same problems as cabbage and broccoli. The most common pests are cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, and Harlequin bug. Because this is a late-season crop, you have time to monitor for problems before the sprouts start forming.
Diseases include blackleg, black rot, and clubroot. Disease control is best achieved by rotating the crop each year. Clubroot is diminished when you raise the soil pH to about 7.0.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月08日
The beet plant (Beta vulgaris) is a fast-growing vegetable that can be grown just about anywhere. Although beets are known as a root crop, all parts of the beet plant are edible. Tender beet greens can be harvested when thinning a row of beets, and mature leaves make good greens when it's time to pull up the whole plant. The most commonly known root beets are red, but golden and striped varieties are also available.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
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莹723
2021年03月07日
There are lots of vegetable crops that can be sown in March, when the days are beginning to lengthen and become warmer.
Some crops, such as chillies and tomatoes, need to be sown early in the year in order to give them the long growing season they need. Others, such as fast-growing beetroot and salads can be started off early so that you can enjoy them in late spring and early summer – keep sowing them every few weeks to extend the harvest.
Tender crops like aubergines need to be sown under glass, either in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. Hardier crops like beetroot and broad beans can be sown directly into the ground outdoors, just don’t sow if the ground is frosty or covered in snow.
Find out which crops you can sow in March, below.
1.Aubergines, chillies and tomatoes
In the unpredictable British climate, tomatoes, chillies and aubergines need a long growing season in order to produce a good crop – so start them off early. Sow under glass for the best results.
2.Broad beans
Broad beans are a welcome crop in early summer, and can be sown outdoors in March. Watch out for blackfly as the plants grow – pinch out the growing tip, where they congregate.
3.Beetroot
Beetroot will germinate in low temperatures, so can be sown direct outdoors in March. Harvest when the beets have reached golf ball size.
4.Swiss chard
Swiss chard is a beautiful crop for a sunny or partially shaded spot. Sow direct outside from March onwards.
5.Salad
Start sowing salads from March onwards, and you’ll be enjoying tasty leaves for months to come. In March, they are best sown indoors.
Some crops, such as chillies and tomatoes, need to be sown early in the year in order to give them the long growing season they need. Others, such as fast-growing beetroot and salads can be started off early so that you can enjoy them in late spring and early summer – keep sowing them every few weeks to extend the harvest.
Tender crops like aubergines need to be sown under glass, either in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. Hardier crops like beetroot and broad beans can be sown directly into the ground outdoors, just don’t sow if the ground is frosty or covered in snow.
Find out which crops you can sow in March, below.
1.Aubergines, chillies and tomatoes
In the unpredictable British climate, tomatoes, chillies and aubergines need a long growing season in order to produce a good crop – so start them off early. Sow under glass for the best results.
2.Broad beans
Broad beans are a welcome crop in early summer, and can be sown outdoors in March. Watch out for blackfly as the plants grow – pinch out the growing tip, where they congregate.
3.Beetroot
Beetroot will germinate in low temperatures, so can be sown direct outdoors in March. Harvest when the beets have reached golf ball size.
4.Swiss chard
Swiss chard is a beautiful crop for a sunny or partially shaded spot. Sow direct outside from March onwards.
5.Salad
Start sowing salads from March onwards, and you’ll be enjoying tasty leaves for months to come. In March, they are best sown indoors.
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莹723
2021年01月27日
Sowing seed is a simple and inexpensive way of growing new flowers and vegetables for your garden. You can start the growing year much earlier than if sowing outside. When growing salad and vegetable crops, it’s a good idea to sow a small amount of seed every two weeks, to ensure you have a long season of fresh produce to eat throughout summer. This is called ‘successional sowing’.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
You don’t need a lot of kit to sow seeds. Many gardeners buy expensive propagators but a seed tray or a few plastic pots, will do the job. If you don’t have plastic pots then try using old yoghurt pots with holes punched in the bottom, or tomato or mushroom punnets instead of a seed tray. Any vessel that can hold compost and allow water to drain freely is suitable.
To maintain an even temperature and keep the soil moist, it’s a good idea to cover the soil with a clear piece of plastic. A bespoke propagator will come with its own clear plastic lid, but you can use cling film, old freezer bags or any clear plastic bag. Use cellotape or an elastic band to fix it to the pot.
Follow our step-by-step guide to sowing seed indoors, below.
You Will Need
• Seeds
• Multi-purpose, peat-free compost
• Seed trays or pots
• Plant labels
• Pencil or waterproof pen
• Watering can with rose attachment
• Polythene bag
• Sheet of glass, or a propagator
Step 1
Fill small pots or seed trays with compost. Use a watering can fitted with a fine rose to thoroughly wet the compost, and leave to drain.
Step 2
Sprinkle seeds evenly and thinly over the surface of the compost, leaving approx 2cm – 3cm between each one, if possible. Some seed is very small, making this impossible. Cover seeds with a thin layer of compost, about the same depth as the size of the seed (the smaller the seed, the thinner the layer of compost).
Step 3
Cover the pot with a clear polythene bag or piece of glass or clear plastic, to maintain an even temperature for germination, and keep the compost moist. Place the pot of seeds on a well-lit windowsill or in a heated propagator.
Step 4
Remove the plastic or glass cover as soon as the seeds have germinated and you can see the seedlings growing out of the compost. Grow them on in a warm place indoors – if growing them on a windowsill you may need to move them at night as temperatures can drop dramatically. The young plants will ready to be ‘pricked’ out when the second pair of leaves, known as ‘true’ leaves, emerges.
Step 5
When pricking out seedlings, handle them only by their leaves, not the stem. Fill a seed tray with compost and plant seedlings about 5cm apart, burying the seedling up to the base of the first set of leaves.
Step 6s
After a couple of weeks, the young plants will be large enough to pot individually into 7.5cm pots, or planted outside in well-prepared soil. Handle plants gently, firm compost around them and water well. Don’t allow the soil or compost to dry out.
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莹723
2020年11月09日
It’s becoming more and more chilly outside, but there are still some vegetable seeds that you can sow in November, including beans and salad leaves.To increase the chances of success, try to use a heated propagator or greenhouse.
Discover five vegetable seeds to sow in November, below. They will reward you with an early harvest the following year.
1-Broad beans
It’s a good idea to buy some Broad bean seeds. Broad beans can be sown in the ground in autumn or alternatively in pots.
2-Salad leaves
Salad leaves like mizuna, mustard and spinach are an easy win. Try sowing indoors on a bright windowsill for winter pickings.
3-Spring onion ‘Performer’
Hardier varieties of spring onion, such as ‘Performer’, can be sown in autumn for winter and spring harvests. It does well in pots, making protecting the young plants easier, too. Protect in a greenhouse or with cloches.
4-First early peas
Sow first early peas like ‘Meteor’ and ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ in autumn to overwinter, providing harvests in early spring. Protect the peas from slugs,
birds and mice by growing in covered containers.
5-Chillies
Chilli peppers, such as ‘Apache’ and ‘Medusa’ can be sown anytime of year, to be grown indoors on the windowsill. In November, when the days are shorter, you’ll want to provide them with warmth, and the brightest spot possible.
Discover five vegetable seeds to sow in November, below. They will reward you with an early harvest the following year.
1-Broad beans
It’s a good idea to buy some Broad bean seeds. Broad beans can be sown in the ground in autumn or alternatively in pots.
2-Salad leaves
Salad leaves like mizuna, mustard and spinach are an easy win. Try sowing indoors on a bright windowsill for winter pickings.
3-Spring onion ‘Performer’
Hardier varieties of spring onion, such as ‘Performer’, can be sown in autumn for winter and spring harvests. It does well in pots, making protecting the young plants easier, too. Protect in a greenhouse or with cloches.
4-First early peas
Sow first early peas like ‘Meteor’ and ‘Kelvedon Wonder’ in autumn to overwinter, providing harvests in early spring. Protect the peas from slugs,
birds and mice by growing in covered containers.
5-Chillies
Chilli peppers, such as ‘Apache’ and ‘Medusa’ can be sown anytime of year, to be grown indoors on the windowsill. In November, when the days are shorter, you’ll want to provide them with warmth, and the brightest spot possible.
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ritau
2020年07月21日
Radishes are grown and consumed throughout the world, being mostly eaten raw as a crunchy salad vegetable with bite. There are numerous varieties, varying in size, flavor, color, and length of time they take to mature. Radishes owe their sharp flavor to the various chemical compounds produced by the plants, including glucosinolate, myrosinase, and isothiocyanate. They are sometimes grown as companion plants and suffer from few pests and diseases. They germinate quickly and grow rapidly, common smaller varieties being ready for consumption within a month, while larger daikon varieties take several months. Being easy to grow and quick to harvest, radishes are often planted by novice gardeners. Another use of radish is as a cover or catch crop in winter, or as a forage crop. Some radishes are grown for their seeds; others, like daikon, may be grown for oil production. Others are used for sprouting.
1. Decide what variety of radishes you want to plant. Like many vegetables, there are innumerable varieties of radishes at your disposal, both hybrid and open-pollinated. If you are a novice gardener, consider growing Cherry Belle radishes; they mature in just 22 days and have a pleasant, mild flavor.
-Spring radishes are the types that people are most familiar (like the Cherry Belle radish, which is red on the outside and white on the inside). You want to make sure that you're growing these in spring or fall. They tend to be the fastest growing radish, as well.
-Typically the summer radish is similar to the spring radish but tends to grow more slowly, taking around 6-8 weeks to mature.
-The winter radish is much larger and starchier than the spring and summer radishes and takes longer to grow. It's best to sow it in late summer for a fall or winter harvest. Winter radishes include Daikon and Champions. Daikon can grow to 18 inches (45 cm) long and takes 60 days to mature, and includes some extra-spicy varieties.
2. Pick the right site for growing. Radishes should be planted in an area with full sun or partial shade, and loose, well-drained soil. Remove any rocks from the soil, as the roots will bifurcate around any rocks in their way. Add organic matter to the soil before planting, such as compost, manure, or leaf mold.
-Make sure your radishes are getting plenty of sunlight. Otherwise, they will grow big on top and very small in the root section. However, too much sunlight can cause radishes to go to seed.
-The soil needs to be free of rocks, well-drained and have a pH content of around 7.4. This high pH content helps prevent club root, a brassica-infecting fungus that causes plant roots to swell, misshape, crack, rot and sometimes lead to plant death. To raise the pH, add dolomite lime or agricultural lime in autumn. Use plenty of organic matter (like compost) in the soil.
-For best results, conduct a soil test or send soil samples to a lab to check for proper nutrients. Make any adjustments to the soil at least one week before planting.
3. Schedule your radish plantings. Radishes are a cool weather crop best planted in spring and autumn. Growing radishes during the hot summer months may cause them to bolt. You can plant your first crop a full 2 weeks before the last frost in spring, as radishes endure frost well.
-Stop growing when hot weather shows up. This basically means that if you're having consecutive days of 60 °F (16 °C) or above you should hold off on your radish planting until it gets cooler.
-A typical spring radish germinates in about 5 days and is ready for harvest in 3 to 4 weeks.
-Because radishes grow so quickly, you can "inter-crop" them between slow-growing vegetables to make row markers. You can also "succession plant" them by sowing a new row each week, to spread your harvest over a longer period.
4. Sow the radish seeds. You will want them to be about 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) apart. As they germinate, thin the successful seedlings to about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, allowing more space for bigger varieties. Rows should be planted about 1 foot (30 cm) apart.
-You will want to thin the radishes when they have grown about 1 inch. Aim to just cut off their heads with a small pair of scissors, all the way down to the soil.
-If you're planting a large radish you will want to plant the seeds about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch deep.
-Radishes work well as companion plants, because they keep a lot of the bugs off the regular plants and they grow more quickly. Plant them alongside carrots, parsnips, and cabbages.
5. Water the radishes as they grow. Keep the radish beds moist, but not soaked. Watering radishes frequently and evenly will result in quick growth; if radishes grow too slowly, they will develop a hot, woody taste. Add compost to the radish bed as desired to help retain moisture.
-If you don't water them evenly (for example, not watering for a few days and then drowning them) the radishes can crack.
6. Harvest the radishes. Radishes are typically ready to harvest when their roots are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Check your seed packet for your variety's expected size at harvest and time to maturity. To harvest, lift the entire plant out of the ground with your hand.
-You can also push back the dirt and see if a bulb has grown. If so, pull a few radishes and taste them. That will let you know if they're ready to be harvested.
-Unlike many root vegetables, radishes cannot be left in the ground, as doing so will cause them to become tough and pithy.
1. Decide what variety of radishes you want to plant. Like many vegetables, there are innumerable varieties of radishes at your disposal, both hybrid and open-pollinated. If you are a novice gardener, consider growing Cherry Belle radishes; they mature in just 22 days and have a pleasant, mild flavor.
-Spring radishes are the types that people are most familiar (like the Cherry Belle radish, which is red on the outside and white on the inside). You want to make sure that you're growing these in spring or fall. They tend to be the fastest growing radish, as well.
-Typically the summer radish is similar to the spring radish but tends to grow more slowly, taking around 6-8 weeks to mature.
-The winter radish is much larger and starchier than the spring and summer radishes and takes longer to grow. It's best to sow it in late summer for a fall or winter harvest. Winter radishes include Daikon and Champions. Daikon can grow to 18 inches (45 cm) long and takes 60 days to mature, and includes some extra-spicy varieties.
2. Pick the right site for growing. Radishes should be planted in an area with full sun or partial shade, and loose, well-drained soil. Remove any rocks from the soil, as the roots will bifurcate around any rocks in their way. Add organic matter to the soil before planting, such as compost, manure, or leaf mold.
-Make sure your radishes are getting plenty of sunlight. Otherwise, they will grow big on top and very small in the root section. However, too much sunlight can cause radishes to go to seed.
-The soil needs to be free of rocks, well-drained and have a pH content of around 7.4. This high pH content helps prevent club root, a brassica-infecting fungus that causes plant roots to swell, misshape, crack, rot and sometimes lead to plant death. To raise the pH, add dolomite lime or agricultural lime in autumn. Use plenty of organic matter (like compost) in the soil.
-For best results, conduct a soil test or send soil samples to a lab to check for proper nutrients. Make any adjustments to the soil at least one week before planting.
3. Schedule your radish plantings. Radishes are a cool weather crop best planted in spring and autumn. Growing radishes during the hot summer months may cause them to bolt. You can plant your first crop a full 2 weeks before the last frost in spring, as radishes endure frost well.
-Stop growing when hot weather shows up. This basically means that if you're having consecutive days of 60 °F (16 °C) or above you should hold off on your radish planting until it gets cooler.
-A typical spring radish germinates in about 5 days and is ready for harvest in 3 to 4 weeks.
-Because radishes grow so quickly, you can "inter-crop" them between slow-growing vegetables to make row markers. You can also "succession plant" them by sowing a new row each week, to spread your harvest over a longer period.
4. Sow the radish seeds. You will want them to be about 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) apart. As they germinate, thin the successful seedlings to about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, allowing more space for bigger varieties. Rows should be planted about 1 foot (30 cm) apart.
-You will want to thin the radishes when they have grown about 1 inch. Aim to just cut off their heads with a small pair of scissors, all the way down to the soil.
-If you're planting a large radish you will want to plant the seeds about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch deep.
-Radishes work well as companion plants, because they keep a lot of the bugs off the regular plants and they grow more quickly. Plant them alongside carrots, parsnips, and cabbages.
5. Water the radishes as they grow. Keep the radish beds moist, but not soaked. Watering radishes frequently and evenly will result in quick growth; if radishes grow too slowly, they will develop a hot, woody taste. Add compost to the radish bed as desired to help retain moisture.
-If you don't water them evenly (for example, not watering for a few days and then drowning them) the radishes can crack.
6. Harvest the radishes. Radishes are typically ready to harvest when their roots are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Check your seed packet for your variety's expected size at harvest and time to maturity. To harvest, lift the entire plant out of the ground with your hand.
-You can also push back the dirt and see if a bulb has grown. If so, pull a few radishes and taste them. That will let you know if they're ready to be harvested.
-Unlike many root vegetables, radishes cannot be left in the ground, as doing so will cause them to become tough and pithy.
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ritau
2020年05月17日
Asparagus, or garden asparagus, folk name sparrow grass, scientific name Asparagus officinalis, is a perennial flowering plant species in the genus Asparagus. Its young shoots are used as a spring vegetable.
It was once classified in the lily family, like the related Allium species, onions and garlic. However, genetic research places lilies, Allium, and asparagus in three separate families—the Liliaceae, Amaryllidaceae, and Asparagaceae, respectively—with the Amaryllidaceae and Asparagaceae being grouped together in the order Asparagales. Sources differ as to the native range of Asparagus officinalis, but generally include most of Europe and western temperate Asia. It is widely cultivated as a vegetable crop.
Only young asparagus shoots are commonly eaten: once the buds start to open ("ferning out"), the shoots quickly turn woody.
Water makes up 93% of asparagus's composition. Asparagus is low in calories and is very low in sodium. It is a good source of vitamin B6, calcium, magnesium, and zinc, and a very good source of dietary fibre, protein, beta-carotene, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin K, thiamin, riboflavin, rutin, niacin, folic acid, iron, phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese, and selenium, as well as chromium, a trace mineral that regulates the ability of insulin to transport glucose from the bloodstream into cells. The amino acid asparagine gets its name from asparagus, as the asparagus plant is relatively rich in this compound.
The shoots are prepared and served in a number of ways around the world, typically as an appetizer or vegetable side dish. In Asian-style cooking, asparagus is often stir-fried. Cantonese restaurants in the United States often serve asparagus stir-fried with chicken, shrimp, or beef. It may also be quickly grilled over charcoal or hardwood embers, and is also used as an ingredient in some stews and soups. In recent years, asparagus eaten raw, as a component of a salad, has regained popularity.
Asparagus can also be pickled and stored for several years. Some brands label shoots prepared in this way as "marinated".
Stem thickness indicates the age of the plant (and not the age of the stalk), with the thicker stems coming from older plants. Older, thicker stalks can be woody, although peeling the skin at the base removes the tough layer. Peeled asparagus will poach much faster. The bottom portion of asparagus often contains sand and soil, so thorough cleaning is generally advised before cooking. Plants bearing seeds produce spears that are smaller and thinner, and plants without seeds produce larger and thicker spears. Thickness and thinness are not an indication of tenderness or toughness. The stalks are thick or thin from the moment they sprout from the ground.
Green asparagus is eaten worldwide, though the availability of imports throughout the year has made it less of a delicacy than it once was. In Europe, however, the "asparagus season is a highlight of the foodie calendar"; in the UK this traditionally begins on 23 April and ends on Midsummer Day.As in continental Europe, due to the short growing season and demand for local produce, asparagus commands a premium price.
It was once classified in the lily family, like the related Allium species, onions and garlic. However, genetic research places lilies, Allium, and asparagus in three separate families—the Liliaceae, Amaryllidaceae, and Asparagaceae, respectively—with the Amaryllidaceae and Asparagaceae being grouped together in the order Asparagales. Sources differ as to the native range of Asparagus officinalis, but generally include most of Europe and western temperate Asia. It is widely cultivated as a vegetable crop.
Only young asparagus shoots are commonly eaten: once the buds start to open ("ferning out"), the shoots quickly turn woody.
Water makes up 93% of asparagus's composition. Asparagus is low in calories and is very low in sodium. It is a good source of vitamin B6, calcium, magnesium, and zinc, and a very good source of dietary fibre, protein, beta-carotene, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin K, thiamin, riboflavin, rutin, niacin, folic acid, iron, phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese, and selenium, as well as chromium, a trace mineral that regulates the ability of insulin to transport glucose from the bloodstream into cells. The amino acid asparagine gets its name from asparagus, as the asparagus plant is relatively rich in this compound.
The shoots are prepared and served in a number of ways around the world, typically as an appetizer or vegetable side dish. In Asian-style cooking, asparagus is often stir-fried. Cantonese restaurants in the United States often serve asparagus stir-fried with chicken, shrimp, or beef. It may also be quickly grilled over charcoal or hardwood embers, and is also used as an ingredient in some stews and soups. In recent years, asparagus eaten raw, as a component of a salad, has regained popularity.
Asparagus can also be pickled and stored for several years. Some brands label shoots prepared in this way as "marinated".
Stem thickness indicates the age of the plant (and not the age of the stalk), with the thicker stems coming from older plants. Older, thicker stalks can be woody, although peeling the skin at the base removes the tough layer. Peeled asparagus will poach much faster. The bottom portion of asparagus often contains sand and soil, so thorough cleaning is generally advised before cooking. Plants bearing seeds produce spears that are smaller and thinner, and plants without seeds produce larger and thicker spears. Thickness and thinness are not an indication of tenderness or toughness. The stalks are thick or thin from the moment they sprout from the ground.
Green asparagus is eaten worldwide, though the availability of imports throughout the year has made it less of a delicacy than it once was. In Europe, however, the "asparagus season is a highlight of the foodie calendar"; in the UK this traditionally begins on 23 April and ends on Midsummer Day.As in continental Europe, due to the short growing season and demand for local produce, asparagus commands a premium price.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月12日
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is a leafy green flowering plant native to central and western Asia. It is of the order Caryophyllales, family Amaranthaceae, subfamily Chenopodioideae. Its leaves are a common edible vegetable consumed either fresh, or after storage using preservation techniques by canning, freezing, or dehydration. It may be eaten cooked or raw, and the taste differs considerably; the high oxalate content may be reduced by steaming.
It is an annual plant (rarely biennial), growing as tall as 30 cm (1 ft). Spinach may overwinter in temperate regions. The leaves are alternate, simple, ovate to triangular, and very variable in size: 2–30 cm (1–12 in) long and 1–15 cm (0.4–5.9 in) broad, with larger leaves at the base of the plant and small leaves higher on the flowering stem. The flowers are inconspicuous, yellow-green, 3–4 mm (0.1–0.2 in) in diameter, and mature into a small, hard, dry, lumpy fruit cluster 5–10 mm (0.2–0.4 in) across containing several seeds.
*Nutrients*
Raw spinach is 91% water, 4% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat. In a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving providing only 23 calories, spinach has a high nutritional value, especially when fresh, frozen, steamed, or quickly boiled. It is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, magnesium, manganese, iron and folate. Spinach is a good source (10-19% of DV) of the B vitamins riboflavin and vitamin B6, vitamin E, calcium, potassium, and dietary fiber. Although spinach is touted as being high in iron and calcium content, and is often served and consumed in its raw form, raw spinach contains high levels of oxalates, which block absorption of calcium and iron in the stomach and small intestine. Spinach cooked in several changes of water has much lower levels of oxalates and is better digested and its nutrients absorbed more completely.
-Iron
Spinach, along with other green, leafy vegetables, contains an appreciable amount of iron attaining 21% of the Daily Value in a 100 g (3.5 oz) amount of raw spinach. For example, the United States Department of Agriculture states that a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of cooked spinach contains 3.57 mg of iron, whereas a 100 g (3.5 oz) ground hamburger patty contains 1.93 mg of iron. However, spinach contains iron absorption-inhibiting substances, including high levels of oxalate, which can bind to the iron to form ferrous oxalate and render much of the iron in spinach unusable by the body.In addition to preventing absorption and use, high levels of oxalates remove iron from the body.
-Calcium
Spinach also has a moderate calcium content which can be affected by oxalates, decreasing its absorption. The calcium in spinach is among the least bioavailable of food calcium sources. By way of comparison, the human body can absorb about half of the calcium present in broccoli, yet only around 5% of the calcium in spinach.
-Vitamin K
A quantity of 3.5 ounces of spinach contains over four times the recommended daily intake of vitamin K. For this reason, individuals taking the anticoagulant warfarin – which acts by inhibiting vitamin K – are instructed to minimize consumption of spinach (as well as other dark green leafy vegetables) to avoid blunting the effect of warfarin.
It is an annual plant (rarely biennial), growing as tall as 30 cm (1 ft). Spinach may overwinter in temperate regions. The leaves are alternate, simple, ovate to triangular, and very variable in size: 2–30 cm (1–12 in) long and 1–15 cm (0.4–5.9 in) broad, with larger leaves at the base of the plant and small leaves higher on the flowering stem. The flowers are inconspicuous, yellow-green, 3–4 mm (0.1–0.2 in) in diameter, and mature into a small, hard, dry, lumpy fruit cluster 5–10 mm (0.2–0.4 in) across containing several seeds.
*Nutrients*
Raw spinach is 91% water, 4% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat. In a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving providing only 23 calories, spinach has a high nutritional value, especially when fresh, frozen, steamed, or quickly boiled. It is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin K, magnesium, manganese, iron and folate. Spinach is a good source (10-19% of DV) of the B vitamins riboflavin and vitamin B6, vitamin E, calcium, potassium, and dietary fiber. Although spinach is touted as being high in iron and calcium content, and is often served and consumed in its raw form, raw spinach contains high levels of oxalates, which block absorption of calcium and iron in the stomach and small intestine. Spinach cooked in several changes of water has much lower levels of oxalates and is better digested and its nutrients absorbed more completely.
-Iron
Spinach, along with other green, leafy vegetables, contains an appreciable amount of iron attaining 21% of the Daily Value in a 100 g (3.5 oz) amount of raw spinach. For example, the United States Department of Agriculture states that a 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of cooked spinach contains 3.57 mg of iron, whereas a 100 g (3.5 oz) ground hamburger patty contains 1.93 mg of iron. However, spinach contains iron absorption-inhibiting substances, including high levels of oxalate, which can bind to the iron to form ferrous oxalate and render much of the iron in spinach unusable by the body.In addition to preventing absorption and use, high levels of oxalates remove iron from the body.
-Calcium
Spinach also has a moderate calcium content which can be affected by oxalates, decreasing its absorption. The calcium in spinach is among the least bioavailable of food calcium sources. By way of comparison, the human body can absorb about half of the calcium present in broccoli, yet only around 5% of the calcium in spinach.
-Vitamin K
A quantity of 3.5 ounces of spinach contains over four times the recommended daily intake of vitamin K. For this reason, individuals taking the anticoagulant warfarin – which acts by inhibiting vitamin K – are instructed to minimize consumption of spinach (as well as other dark green leafy vegetables) to avoid blunting the effect of warfarin.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月06日
Broccoli is an edible green plant in the cabbage family (family Brassicaceae, genus Brassica) whose large flowering head and stalk is eaten as a vegetable. The word broccoli comes from the Italian plural of broccolo, which means "the flowering crest of a cabbage", and is the diminutive form of brocco, meaning "small nail" or "sprout".
Broccoli is classified in the Italica cultivar group of the species Brassica oleracea. Broccoli has large flower heads, usually dark green in color, arranged in a tree-like structure branching out from a thick stalk which is usually light green. The mass of flower heads is surrounded by leaves. Broccoli resembles cauliflower, which is a different cultivar group of the same Brassica species. Combined in 2017, China and India produced 73% of the world's broccoli and cauliflower crops.
Broccoli resulted from breeding of cultivated Brassica crops in the northern Mediterranean starting in about the sixth century BC. Broccoli has its origins in primitive cultivars grown in the Roman Empire.It is eaten raw or cooked. Broccoli is a particularly rich source of vitamin C and vitamin K. Contents of its characteristic sulfur-containing glucosinolate compounds, isothiocyanates and sulforaphane, are diminished by boiling, but are better preserved by steaming, microwaving or stir-frying.
A 100 gram reference serving of raw broccoli provides 34 calories and is a rich source (20% or higher of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin C (107% DV) and vitamin K (97% DV) (table). Raw broccoli also contains moderate amounts (10–19% DV) of several B vitamins and the dietary mineral manganese, whereas other micronutrients are low in content (less than 10% DV). Raw broccoli is 89% water, 7% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat (table).
Boiling substantially reduces the levels of broccoli glucosinolates, while other cooking methods, such as steaming, microwaving, and stir frying, have no significant effect on glucosinolate levels.
Broccoli is classified in the Italica cultivar group of the species Brassica oleracea. Broccoli has large flower heads, usually dark green in color, arranged in a tree-like structure branching out from a thick stalk which is usually light green. The mass of flower heads is surrounded by leaves. Broccoli resembles cauliflower, which is a different cultivar group of the same Brassica species. Combined in 2017, China and India produced 73% of the world's broccoli and cauliflower crops.
Broccoli resulted from breeding of cultivated Brassica crops in the northern Mediterranean starting in about the sixth century BC. Broccoli has its origins in primitive cultivars grown in the Roman Empire.It is eaten raw or cooked. Broccoli is a particularly rich source of vitamin C and vitamin K. Contents of its characteristic sulfur-containing glucosinolate compounds, isothiocyanates and sulforaphane, are diminished by boiling, but are better preserved by steaming, microwaving or stir-frying.
A 100 gram reference serving of raw broccoli provides 34 calories and is a rich source (20% or higher of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin C (107% DV) and vitamin K (97% DV) (table). Raw broccoli also contains moderate amounts (10–19% DV) of several B vitamins and the dietary mineral manganese, whereas other micronutrients are low in content (less than 10% DV). Raw broccoli is 89% water, 7% carbohydrates, 3% protein, and contains negligible fat (table).
Boiling substantially reduces the levels of broccoli glucosinolates, while other cooking methods, such as steaming, microwaving, and stir frying, have no significant effect on glucosinolate levels.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月02日
Celery (Apium graveolens) is a marshland plant in the family Apiaceae that has been cultivated as a vegetable since antiquity. Celery has a long fibrous stalk tapering into leaves. Depending on location and cultivar, either its stalks, leaves or hypocotyl are eaten and used in cooking. Celery seed is also used as a spice and its extracts have been used in herbal medicine.
Celery leaves are pinnate to bipinnate with rhombic leaflets 3–6 cm (1.2–2.4 in) long and 2–4 cm (0.79–1.57 in) broad. The flowers are creamy-white, 2–3 mm (0.079–0.118 in) in diameter, and are produced in dense compound umbels. The seeds are broad ovoid to globose, 1.5–2 mm (0.059–0.079 in) long and wide. Modern cultivars have been selected for solid petioles, leaf stalks. A celery stalk readily separates into "strings" which are bundles of angular collenchyma cells exterior to the vascular bundles.
Wild celery, Apium graveolens var. graveolens, grows to 1 m (3.3 ft) tall. It occurs around the globe. The first cultivation is thought to have happened in the Mediterranean region, where the natural habitats were salty and wet, or marshy soils near the coast where celery grew in agropyro-rumicion-plant communities.
North of the Alps, wild celery is found only in the foothill zone on soils with some salt content. It prefers moist or wet, nutrient rich, muddy soils. It cannot be found in Austria and is increasingly rare in Germany.
The plants are raised from seed, sown either in a hot bed or in the open garden according to the season of the year, and, after one or two thinnings and transplantings, they are, on attaining a height of 15–20 cm (5.9–7.9 in), planted out in deep trenches for convenience of blanching, which is effected by earthing up to exclude light from the stems.
Celery was first grown as a winter and early spring vegetable. It was considered a cleansing tonic to counter the deficiencies of a winter diet based on salted meats without fresh vegetables. By the 19th century, the season for celery in England had been extended, to last from the beginning of September to late in April.
Celery is used in weight loss diets, where it provides low-calorie dietary fiber bulk. Celery is often incorrectly thought to be a "negative-calorie food", the digestion of which burns more calories than the body can obtain. In fact, eating celery provides positive net calories, with digestion consuming only a small proportion of the calories taken in.
Celery leaves are pinnate to bipinnate with rhombic leaflets 3–6 cm (1.2–2.4 in) long and 2–4 cm (0.79–1.57 in) broad. The flowers are creamy-white, 2–3 mm (0.079–0.118 in) in diameter, and are produced in dense compound umbels. The seeds are broad ovoid to globose, 1.5–2 mm (0.059–0.079 in) long and wide. Modern cultivars have been selected for solid petioles, leaf stalks. A celery stalk readily separates into "strings" which are bundles of angular collenchyma cells exterior to the vascular bundles.
Wild celery, Apium graveolens var. graveolens, grows to 1 m (3.3 ft) tall. It occurs around the globe. The first cultivation is thought to have happened in the Mediterranean region, where the natural habitats were salty and wet, or marshy soils near the coast where celery grew in agropyro-rumicion-plant communities.
North of the Alps, wild celery is found only in the foothill zone on soils with some salt content. It prefers moist or wet, nutrient rich, muddy soils. It cannot be found in Austria and is increasingly rare in Germany.
The plants are raised from seed, sown either in a hot bed or in the open garden according to the season of the year, and, after one or two thinnings and transplantings, they are, on attaining a height of 15–20 cm (5.9–7.9 in), planted out in deep trenches for convenience of blanching, which is effected by earthing up to exclude light from the stems.
Celery was first grown as a winter and early spring vegetable. It was considered a cleansing tonic to counter the deficiencies of a winter diet based on salted meats without fresh vegetables. By the 19th century, the season for celery in England had been extended, to last from the beginning of September to late in April.
Celery is used in weight loss diets, where it provides low-calorie dietary fiber bulk. Celery is often incorrectly thought to be a "negative-calorie food", the digestion of which burns more calories than the body can obtain. In fact, eating celery provides positive net calories, with digestion consuming only a small proportion of the calories taken in.
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文章
ritau
2020年03月30日
The carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, usually orange in colour, though purple, black, red, white, and yellow cultivars exist.The carrot is a biennial plant in the umbellifer family Apiaceae. At first, it grows a rosette of leaves while building up the enlarged taproot. Fast-growing cultivars mature within three months (90 days) of sowing the seed, while slower-maturing cultivars need a month longer (120 days). The roots contain high quantities of alpha- and beta-carotene, and are a good source of vitamin K and vitamin B6, but the belief that eating carrots improves night vision is a myth put forward by the British in World War II to mislead the enemy about their military capabilities.
*Nutrition
Raw carrots are 88% water, 9% carbohydrates, 0.9% protein, 2.8% dietary fiber, 1% ash and 0.2% fat. Carrot dietary fiber comprises mostly cellulose, with smaller proportions of hemicellulose, lignin and starch. Free sugars in carrot include sucrose, glucose, and fructose.
The carrot gets its characteristic, bright orange colour from β-carotene, and lesser amounts of α-carotene, γ-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin.α- and β-carotenes are partly metabolized into vitamin A, providing more than 100% of the Daily Value (DV) per 100 g serving of carrots (right table). Carrots are also a good source of vitamin K (13% DV) and vitamin B6 (11% DV), but otherwise have modest content of other essential nutrients (table).
The provitamin A beta-carotene from carrots does not actually help people to see in the dark unless they suffer from vitamin A deficiency. This myth was propaganda used by the Royal Air Force during the Second World War to explain why their pilots had improved success during night air battles, but was actually used to disguise advances in radar technology and the use of red lights on instrument panels. Nevertheless, the consumption of carrots was advocated in Britain at the time as part of a Dig for Victory campaign. A radio programme called The Kitchen Front encouraged people to grow, store and use carrots in various novel ways, including making carrot jam and Woolton pie, named after the Lord Woolton, the Minister for Food. The British public during WWII generally believed that eating carrots would help them see better at night and in 1942 there was a 100,000-ton surplus of carrots from the extra production.
*How to grow/Tips*
Carrots are direct seeded in the garden rather than being transplanted and disturbing the roots. Carrot seeds can take up to 15 days to germinate. Keep the soil moist until seedlings appear.
*Soil
Choose fertile, loose, neutral or slightly acidic soil, preferably sandy loam, which is good for irrigating and draining.
*Temperature
he temperature of germination: 20℃-25℃
the growth temperature: 17℃-23℃
*Humidity
70-80%
*Sun Exposure
Full sun to light shade
*Fertilization
Potassium sulphate compound fertilizer
When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Hope you will have a good harvest!
*Nutrition
Raw carrots are 88% water, 9% carbohydrates, 0.9% protein, 2.8% dietary fiber, 1% ash and 0.2% fat. Carrot dietary fiber comprises mostly cellulose, with smaller proportions of hemicellulose, lignin and starch. Free sugars in carrot include sucrose, glucose, and fructose.
The carrot gets its characteristic, bright orange colour from β-carotene, and lesser amounts of α-carotene, γ-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin.α- and β-carotenes are partly metabolized into vitamin A, providing more than 100% of the Daily Value (DV) per 100 g serving of carrots (right table). Carrots are also a good source of vitamin K (13% DV) and vitamin B6 (11% DV), but otherwise have modest content of other essential nutrients (table).
The provitamin A beta-carotene from carrots does not actually help people to see in the dark unless they suffer from vitamin A deficiency. This myth was propaganda used by the Royal Air Force during the Second World War to explain why their pilots had improved success during night air battles, but was actually used to disguise advances in radar technology and the use of red lights on instrument panels. Nevertheless, the consumption of carrots was advocated in Britain at the time as part of a Dig for Victory campaign. A radio programme called The Kitchen Front encouraged people to grow, store and use carrots in various novel ways, including making carrot jam and Woolton pie, named after the Lord Woolton, the Minister for Food. The British public during WWII generally believed that eating carrots would help them see better at night and in 1942 there was a 100,000-ton surplus of carrots from the extra production.
*How to grow/Tips*
Carrots are direct seeded in the garden rather than being transplanted and disturbing the roots. Carrot seeds can take up to 15 days to germinate. Keep the soil moist until seedlings appear.
*Soil
Choose fertile, loose, neutral or slightly acidic soil, preferably sandy loam, which is good for irrigating and draining.
*Temperature
he temperature of germination: 20℃-25℃
the growth temperature: 17℃-23℃
*Humidity
70-80%
*Sun Exposure
Full sun to light shade
*Fertilization
Potassium sulphate compound fertilizer
When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed.
Hope you will have a good harvest!
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文章
Andy
2018年12月26日
Facebook Pinterest Twitter Google+ LinkedIn StumbleUponLearn How to Grow Fenugreek in your garden or containers in your balcony. Growing fenugreek is easy. This quick growing vegetable is full of nutrients. 
Fenugreek or ‘Methi’ is native to Southwest Asia and widely cultivated for its medicinal and culinary uses. It’s an all purpose plant. Seeds are used as a spice, dried leaves as a herb, and fresh and tender leaves as a green leafy vegetable. It tastes little sweet with a touch of bitterness like mustard greens or bok choy. It can be a healthy alternative of spinach and any other greens.
USDA ZONES: All the zones as a seasonal crop
Difficulty: Easy
Growing Season: Spring, summer, and fall (year-round in warm climates, i.e., USDA Zone 9-11)
Other Names: Trigonella foenum-graecum (Scientific Name), Methi, Samudra methi, Shanbalile, Abesh, Hilbeh, Hilba, Helba, Halba, Kasturi methi
Growing fenugreek is easy, whether you live in a warm climate or cool, both on grounds or in containers. You can also grow it indoors on windowsills in small pots. You can also plant it in your balcony vegetable garden or patio, terrace, and rooftop with lettuce, spinach, and other greens.
How to Grow Fenugreek
Create a fenugreek bed with cilantro or grow it alone. You can cultivate it from seeds. It’s easy even for beginners.
Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in a good potting mix or soil in the desired spot or container when all the dangers of frost are passed, and the weather starts to warm up (for cool climate).
Remember, fenugreek hates to be transplanted. Leave 2 inches of space for each plant while sowing seeds. They’ll sprout quickly, and you’ll see seedlings just within 2-5 days.
Note: Buy best quality seeds from the garden center or online. You can also buy it from grocery stores or spice shops as its seeds are sold as a spice but beware of poor germination rate.
You can directly sow seeds but if you’ve bought them from grocery stores, soak them overnight to increase germination rate before planting.Growing Fenugreek in Containers
You can grow fenugreek in containers. It’s similar to any other green vegetable. Take a shallow but wide planter at least 6-8 inches deep with good drainage. Fenugreek has shallow roots so it won’t mind the low depth.
Fill the pot with rich potting mix. You can mix a 1/3 part compost or well-rotted cow or horse manure to it. Sprinkle seeds all over the pot and dust a thin quarter inch layer of soil briskly to cover them. Leave 1-2 inch of spacing between seeds. Don’t care about the spacing of seeds if you’re growing fenugreek as a microgreen.
Also Read: Best Microgreens You Should Grow
Growing Climate and TemperatureFenugreek grows well in a warm and hot climate when the temperature ranges from 50 to 90 F (10 C to 32 C).When planting it for seeds, grow it in spring or early summer. If you’re cultivating it to use as a vegetable or herb, then you can plant it anytime between spring to mid-fall.If you live in zone 9-11 or any warm place with frost-free winters outside the U.S., grow fenugreek year round.
Also Read: Best Basil Varieties for your Kitchen
Fenugreek Plant Care and RequirementsLocation
Fenugreek prefers neutral to slightly alkaline soil with pH level around 6.5-8.2. Plant it in a spot that receives at least 4-5 hours of direct sun with shade in the afternoon. Prefer a sunny spot if you’re growing it in a climate where is not intense and the weather is cold.
Watering
Do regular watering to keep the soil slightly moist. Care not to over-water the fenugreek plant and avoid waterlogged soil. This will impede the growth and kill your plant. If you’re growing fenugreek indoors or in a shady area, be vigilant about watering.
Fertilizer
Fenugreek does not require a lot of fertilizer. At the time of planting, you can mix manure or compost or time-based fertilizer in the soil, and that will keep it growing for a few weeks. Also, feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer, every other week for more robust growth.
Pests and Diseases
Fenugreek does not have many pests and diseases. Some pests and diseases that affect it are aphids, powdery mildew, charcoal rot, and root rot. You can easily save your plant from these problems by using organic pesticides regularly and watering properly.
Harvesting Fenugreek
In favorable conditions, within 20-30 days fenugreek will be ready for the first harvest. Trim the leaves gently to use as a leafy vegetable and prepare delicious recipes or air dry it to use as a herb. Leave the twigs, which will grow up again in 15 days. You can do this up to four times. To harvest fenugreek seeds, you will have to wait for 2-4 months, depending on the growing conditions.
It’s hot aroma like pepper and crunchy sour and sweet flavor gives it a distinctive taste, which you can’t compare with other vegetables. It is popularly used in Indian, Persian, Egyptian and Ethiopian cuisines, to prepare tastiest recipes. Fresh seeds are used to sprinkle on salad and dried seeds in pickles.
Fenugreek or ‘Methi’ is native to Southwest Asia and widely cultivated for its medicinal and culinary uses. It’s an all purpose plant. Seeds are used as a spice, dried leaves as a herb, and fresh and tender leaves as a green leafy vegetable. It tastes little sweet with a touch of bitterness like mustard greens or bok choy. It can be a healthy alternative of spinach and any other greens.
USDA ZONES: All the zones as a seasonal crop
Difficulty: Easy
Growing Season: Spring, summer, and fall (year-round in warm climates, i.e., USDA Zone 9-11)
Other Names: Trigonella foenum-graecum (Scientific Name), Methi, Samudra methi, Shanbalile, Abesh, Hilbeh, Hilba, Helba, Halba, Kasturi methi
Growing fenugreek is easy, whether you live in a warm climate or cool, both on grounds or in containers. You can also grow it indoors on windowsills in small pots. You can also plant it in your balcony vegetable garden or patio, terrace, and rooftop with lettuce, spinach, and other greens.
How to Grow Fenugreek
Create a fenugreek bed with cilantro or grow it alone. You can cultivate it from seeds. It’s easy even for beginners.
Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in a good potting mix or soil in the desired spot or container when all the dangers of frost are passed, and the weather starts to warm up (for cool climate).
Remember, fenugreek hates to be transplanted. Leave 2 inches of space for each plant while sowing seeds. They’ll sprout quickly, and you’ll see seedlings just within 2-5 days.
Note: Buy best quality seeds from the garden center or online. You can also buy it from grocery stores or spice shops as its seeds are sold as a spice but beware of poor germination rate.
You can directly sow seeds but if you’ve bought them from grocery stores, soak them overnight to increase germination rate before planting.Growing Fenugreek in Containers
You can grow fenugreek in containers. It’s similar to any other green vegetable. Take a shallow but wide planter at least 6-8 inches deep with good drainage. Fenugreek has shallow roots so it won’t mind the low depth.
Fill the pot with rich potting mix. You can mix a 1/3 part compost or well-rotted cow or horse manure to it. Sprinkle seeds all over the pot and dust a thin quarter inch layer of soil briskly to cover them. Leave 1-2 inch of spacing between seeds. Don’t care about the spacing of seeds if you’re growing fenugreek as a microgreen.
Also Read: Best Microgreens You Should Grow
Growing Climate and TemperatureFenugreek grows well in a warm and hot climate when the temperature ranges from 50 to 90 F (10 C to 32 C).When planting it for seeds, grow it in spring or early summer. If you’re cultivating it to use as a vegetable or herb, then you can plant it anytime between spring to mid-fall.If you live in zone 9-11 or any warm place with frost-free winters outside the U.S., grow fenugreek year round.
Also Read: Best Basil Varieties for your Kitchen
Fenugreek Plant Care and RequirementsLocation
Fenugreek prefers neutral to slightly alkaline soil with pH level around 6.5-8.2. Plant it in a spot that receives at least 4-5 hours of direct sun with shade in the afternoon. Prefer a sunny spot if you’re growing it in a climate where is not intense and the weather is cold.
Watering
Do regular watering to keep the soil slightly moist. Care not to over-water the fenugreek plant and avoid waterlogged soil. This will impede the growth and kill your plant. If you’re growing fenugreek indoors or in a shady area, be vigilant about watering.
Fertilizer
Fenugreek does not require a lot of fertilizer. At the time of planting, you can mix manure or compost or time-based fertilizer in the soil, and that will keep it growing for a few weeks. Also, feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer, every other week for more robust growth.
Pests and Diseases
Fenugreek does not have many pests and diseases. Some pests and diseases that affect it are aphids, powdery mildew, charcoal rot, and root rot. You can easily save your plant from these problems by using organic pesticides regularly and watering properly.
Harvesting Fenugreek
In favorable conditions, within 20-30 days fenugreek will be ready for the first harvest. Trim the leaves gently to use as a leafy vegetable and prepare delicious recipes or air dry it to use as a herb. Leave the twigs, which will grow up again in 15 days. You can do this up to four times. To harvest fenugreek seeds, you will have to wait for 2-4 months, depending on the growing conditions.
It’s hot aroma like pepper and crunchy sour and sweet flavor gives it a distinctive taste, which you can’t compare with other vegetables. It is popularly used in Indian, Persian, Egyptian and Ethiopian cuisines, to prepare tastiest recipes. Fresh seeds are used to sprinkle on salad and dried seeds in pickles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Historically, potatoes have only been grown on farms and in vegetable gardens with lots of space. However, even those people in the smallest of urban lots can grow healthy and tasty potatoes with the garbage bag method.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
Step 1
Chit your potatoes, which means preparing them for planting. You can use potatoes from your pantry, even if they have already sprouted. Cut potatoes into at least two pieces, making sure that there is at least two eyes in each piece. A potato eye is an indentation or spot where a growing sprout will form. Leave potato pieces out to dry on a paper towel for at least 24 hours.
Step 2
Prepare your soil mixture. The soil mixture must be light and airy to allow potato roots and shoots to form and grow easily. Mix potting soil with peat moss, vermiculite or chopped dead leaves, or a mixture of all of them. Fill a garbage bag 4 inches full of the soil mixture. Roll the edges of the garbage bag down to within 2 inches of the top of the soil layer. Punch holes into the garbage bag below the soil level to allow drainage.
Step 3
Plant your potatoes. Plant five potato chits per garbage bag, one in the center and four in a circle near the outside edge of the garbage bag. Plant potato chits deep enough to just be barely covered with soil. Water thoroughly.
Step 4
Maintain your potatoes. First, the potato chits will grow roots. This is a time when there will be little visible activity. Then the chits will send up sprouts. When the sprouts get 4 inches high, add soil mixture to the garbage bag until the shoot is almost completely covered again. Roll out the edges of the garbage bag to keep up with the soil being added. Water thoroughly. Continue to add soil mixture as the shoot grows to encourage it to continue to grow upwards. Water the bags regularly so that the soil does not dry out. When the shoots have reached the top of the garbage bag, stop adding soil and allow them to bloom and mature.
Step 5
Harvest your potatoes. When the potato plant has withered and the leaves have turned brown, it's time to harvest the potatoes. Dump out or cut open the garbage bag and pull the potatoes off of the underground shoots. Brush off as much dirt as possible but do not wash. Allow skins to firm up in open air out of sunlight for at least two days. Wash potatoes only when ready to use to prolong the storage life.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Your kitchen trash can may contain a vegetable garden just waiting to happen. The roots, shoots and seeds of many plants can regrow instead of languishing in the garbage. Success will vary because grocery store plants are often grown from sterile hybrids or they are treated to retard growth, but with experimentation you may grow a successful garden for just the cost of time.
Plant Choices
Not all scraps are suitable gardening stock. Seeds from summer and winter squashes (Curcubita spp.), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) will often sprout and grow, but the fruits may not be the same quality as the original. You can regrow whole garlic bulbs (Allium sativum), a biennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, from a single leftover clove, for example. Some plants grow back from their roots if you carefully save them. Ginger (Zingiber officinale), which grows in USDA zones 9 through 12, along with green onions (Allium cepa) and the leafy tops of radishes (Raphanus sativus) are some examples.
Pick a Spot
The season and your climate help determine whether pots or beds are the better choice. Spring and summer vegetables, like squash and peppers, grow best outdoors in a bed or container garden. Garlic performs best in a bed in almost any climate, while tender ginger requires a pot so you can overwinter it indoors in cool climates. Cool-season vegetables, like radish tops, do well both outdoors or inside. If you plant in containers, use pots with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Successful Planting
Preparing to plant is just as important as selecting the right kitchen scraps. Most vegetables need rich, well-draining soil in an area that receives six or more hours of daily sun. When planting seeds, sow larger seeds like beans and squash 1 to 2 inches deep, and smaller seeds, such as peppers, 1/4 inch deep. Leave the top of the root attached to leafy greens, such as radish, and push the cut end of the root into the soil slightly. Garlic cloves are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in late fall. For ginger, cut the root into sections , with each section containing at least one growing node, which resembles a raised bump. Plant those sections. If you plant in pots, fill them with a well-drained, moistened potting soil.
Keep Them Growing
Vegetables usually need about 1 inch of water a week. Container plants need watering when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Water these until the excess water drains from the pot's bottom. Although fertilizer helps a plant grow, wait to fertilize until after new growth begins to emerge from the planted scraps, or wait for about four to six weeks if you plant seeds. Each vegetable has its own fertilizer requirements, but a general application of a 24-8-16 soluble fertilizer, diluted at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water and applied at 14-day intervals, is suitable for most container vegetables. For garden beds, sprinkle 4 tablespoons of a slow-release 12-4-8 blend over every 4 square feet of soil six weeks after planting, keeping the fertilizer off the leaves and stems of the plants.
Plant Choices
Not all scraps are suitable gardening stock. Seeds from summer and winter squashes (Curcubita spp.), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) will often sprout and grow, but the fruits may not be the same quality as the original. You can regrow whole garlic bulbs (Allium sativum), a biennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, from a single leftover clove, for example. Some plants grow back from their roots if you carefully save them. Ginger (Zingiber officinale), which grows in USDA zones 9 through 12, along with green onions (Allium cepa) and the leafy tops of radishes (Raphanus sativus) are some examples.
Pick a Spot
The season and your climate help determine whether pots or beds are the better choice. Spring and summer vegetables, like squash and peppers, grow best outdoors in a bed or container garden. Garlic performs best in a bed in almost any climate, while tender ginger requires a pot so you can overwinter it indoors in cool climates. Cool-season vegetables, like radish tops, do well both outdoors or inside. If you plant in containers, use pots with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Successful Planting
Preparing to plant is just as important as selecting the right kitchen scraps. Most vegetables need rich, well-draining soil in an area that receives six or more hours of daily sun. When planting seeds, sow larger seeds like beans and squash 1 to 2 inches deep, and smaller seeds, such as peppers, 1/4 inch deep. Leave the top of the root attached to leafy greens, such as radish, and push the cut end of the root into the soil slightly. Garlic cloves are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in late fall. For ginger, cut the root into sections , with each section containing at least one growing node, which resembles a raised bump. Plant those sections. If you plant in pots, fill them with a well-drained, moistened potting soil.
Keep Them Growing
Vegetables usually need about 1 inch of water a week. Container plants need watering when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Water these until the excess water drains from the pot's bottom. Although fertilizer helps a plant grow, wait to fertilize until after new growth begins to emerge from the planted scraps, or wait for about four to six weeks if you plant seeds. Each vegetable has its own fertilizer requirements, but a general application of a 24-8-16 soluble fertilizer, diluted at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon of water and applied at 14-day intervals, is suitable for most container vegetables. For garden beds, sprinkle 4 tablespoons of a slow-release 12-4-8 blend over every 4 square feet of soil six weeks after planting, keeping the fertilizer off the leaves and stems of the plants.
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