文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月07日
Cosmos are freely flowering annuals that are easy to grow by sprinkling some seeds in the garden after any danger of frost has passed. These quintessential cottage garden flowers reach full maturity in about two months. Cosmos can be slower to germinate, but it blooms quickly after that and continues to flower through the fall. The flowers sit atop long slender stems and form a cloud of attractive color all summer that attracts bees, butterflies, and birds to your garden. Cosmos flowers look a lot like daisies. They come in a broad range of colors, with more cultivars developed every year. The leaves grow opposite on stems and are deeply lobed, pinnate, or bipinnate and feathery-looking depending on the type. If you plan to have cosmos and live in the southern U.S., consider keeping them as potted plants since they tend to be invasive there.1
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月01日
Corn plants (Dracaena deremensis) are quite popular as houseplants thanks to their attractive foliage and hardy nature. They’re easy to grow in containers or in the garden in the right climate. These plants can grow quite tall in the wild, but they stay at a manageable size when kept indoors. They feature rosettes of sword-shaped green leaves that can grow to around 2 feet long. Tiny yellow flowers will bloom periodically, but flowers on indoor plants are rather rare. Spring is the best time for planting, though you can typically pot a nursery plant indoors at any time of year. These plants are fairly slow growers and will naturally lose their lower leaves over time while they send up new ones on top.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月05日
If you are looking for a flower to add to a charming cottage garden, look no further than the common hollyhock (Alcea rosea). This traditional garden favorite can grow up to 8 feet tall with large, heart-shaped foliage and long-blooming ornamental flowers. This biennial herbaceous plant adds plenty of interest, and readily self-seeds to provide new growth year after year. You can plant hollyhocks in late summer when growing from seed, and they will bloom the following year.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月22日
With their glossy emerald leaves and petite shape, China doll plants make for an attractive addition to any indoor home garden collection. Native to the subtropical mountainous areas of Asia, China doll plants are evergreen trees that are a part of the Bignoniaceae family. When cared for indoors, they are moderately fast growers and can reach heights between 4 and 6 feet at maturity.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
When growing indoors, the China doll plant can be started and grown all year long. It's a bit picky about its growing conditions (specifically when it comes to light and soil), but if you maintain them, you'll be rewarded with a feathery, eye-catching plant perfect for bringing a pop of greenery to any corner of your home.
Botanical Name Radermachera sinica
Common Name China doll plant, serpent tree, emerald tree
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms indoors)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA) when outdoors
Native Area Asia
China Doll Plant Care
China doll plants require specific growing conditions in order to thrive indoors and can be fussy if these conditions are not met. The most important thing to remember when growing a China doll plant is that they require lots of light and moisture and do not react well to frequent changes in their growing conditions. Leaf drop commonly occurs in China doll plants if their growing conditions are not right or change too quickly.
Light
China doll plants require lots of medium to bright indirect light in order to thrive indoors. Choose a spot nearby a window, but make sure to protect your plant from any direct harsh rays, as they can burn the plant's delicate leaves and cause leaf drop. If you do not have enough natural light in your home to support a China doll plant (it will need at least four to five hours a day, consistently), you can supplement with an artificial grow light to help it thrive.
Soil
Plant your China doll plant in a moist but well-draining soil mix. Commercially available potting mixtures are typically adequate—if you notice that the soil is not draining well, perlite or sand can be mixed in to help improve drainage.
Water
Regular watering is vital to achieving a happy, healthy China doll plant. They should be watered once the top inch of soil is dry, the frequency of which will vary depending on the season and environment in your home. At the same time, care needs to be taken not to overwater China doll plants, as they cannot handle "wet feet" and will easily develop root rot if left sitting in water. To avoid this issue, choose a pot with ample drained holes at its base. If you notice the leaves of the plant turning yellow or crunchy, that's a good indication that it's not receiving enough water. Likewise, black tips on the plant's leaves can signal it's being overwatered.
Temperature and Humidity
Due to their subtropical origins, China doll plants appreciate warm and humid conditions in your home. They should be kept in temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while they can survive in the typical dry household conditions, they will thrive when given extra humidity. To increase the humidity around your China doll plant, keep it in a room in your home that typically boasts more humidity, like the kitchen or bathroom. You can also mist the plant daily or place the plant near a humidifier.
Fertilizer
During its growing period (spring and summer), your China doll plant should be fed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted by half. Once the plant's growth has slowed for the year, you can decrease your feeding cadence to once every other month.
Pruning China Doll Plants
Regular pruning is the main form of upkeep for the China doll plant and should be done so regularly in order to maintain an attractive and successful plant. It's not picky about the time of year that it is pruned, so you can do so whenever you notice your China doll plant getting a little unruly. Every few months, trim back any stems that have gotten a bit leggy, those that are misshapen, or stems that appear to be dying off.
Propagating China Doll Plants
China doll plants can be propagated through stem cuttings. Propagating China doll plants isn't impossible, but it does take more time and care than some other varietals. When taking stem cuttings, ensure that they are green and not from the woody portion of the plant. The stem cuttings can then be placed directly in moist soil and covered with a sheet of plastic wrap in order to retain humidity. The soil around the cuttings should be kept evenly moist at all times. If the propagation was successful roots should begin to grow within three to four weeks.
Potting and Repotting China Doll Plants
Less is more when it comes to repotting China doll plants. They appreciate being rootbound, so frequent repotting or disturbance can lead to leaf drop and a general failure to thrive. Only repot your China doll plant when absolutely necessary, and be sure to increase its pot size by only one-to-two inches when you do so. As an alternative to repotting, you can consider root pruning, which can also be known to help control the size of your China doll plant.
Common Pests and Diseases
China doll plants aren't known to be particularly susceptible to pest or disease issues, but there are a few afflictions to look out for. Like most houseplants, your China doll plant is at risk for scale, mealybug, and spider mites, especially if it's kept near a variety of other plants. These common pests can be treated with a natural insecticide, such as neem oil. Any diseases it may experience are often fungal (like leaf spot) and can be rectified by reducing the moisture around the plant slightly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月16日
Iresine herbstii is a relatively uncommon plant, but one that's gorgeous in any garden or as a houseplant. In all, there are about 30 species of Iresine plants in the genus, all of them native to South America, especially Brazil. They range from small to medium-sized shrubs, and most are perennial. The flowers on these plants are unremarkable, consisting of small greenish or white flowers on small stems, but instead, they are commonly grown for their striking foliage.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
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