文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月17日
Baby's breath plants (Gypsophila spp.) have become somewhat of a cliché in floral arrangements. But they also can look lovely in the garden. There are more than 100 annual and perennial species within this genus with varying appearances. Some have a creeping growth habit, forming an attractive flowering ground cover. And others grow in more upright and contained mounds with extensive branching of their slender stems, giving the plants a light and airy feel. Their small, narrow leaves are gray-green to blue-green in color. In the summer, baby’s breath plants are covered in tiny, five-petaled, white or pink flowers that last several weeks. The blooms are known to attract butterflies and other pollinators. Baby’s breath should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plants have a fast growth rate.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月29日
It's a cruel trick of Mother Nature that that most glorious weather of the gardening season coincides with the decline of most blooming plants. Asters, however, don't play along with the prank. Like garden mums, asters flower in response to the shortening days of fall, giving gardeners a beautiful display of buds that can bloom from August through October. Native to North America, asters comprise many species in several different genera of plants, as well as dozens of cultivars, but for gardeners, asters are simply great flowers that provide purple or blue daisy-like flowers late in the season.
Although home and garden centers often market asters as a seasonal purchase among displays of pumpkins and hay bales, asters are long-lived perennials that can become a permanent part of your landscape. Though aster flowers have that wildflower look, they are also beautiful in cut-flower arrangements. People aren't the only ones who find asters attractive—pollinators such as bees and butterflies also love aster flowers. If planted in the fall, they can be a rare source of late-season nectar, making them a crucial flower for pollinators.
Asters can be planted almost any time of the year, though spring is typical since that's when potted nursery plants are readily available. These fast-growing perennials will be ready to put on a good fall display in their first year, and once established, they will hold their own for many years.
Botanical Name Symphyotrichum
Common Names Asters, New England asters, frost flowers
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide (varies by type)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, blue, white
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Aster Care
While you can grow aster flowers from seeds planted in the springtime, it may take several years for them to mature into full-sized plants. More often, asters are planted from potted nursery specimens. They do best in loamy, well-draining soil, and desire a good amount of space around the plants to allow space for their roots to expand.
Every three years or so, the root clumps should be dug up and divided to keep the plants from getting too woody and dying out in the centers. The woody center can be discarded, with the outer portions replanted.
When frost finally kills off the foliage, clip off the stems at ground level. This can also be done in the spring to allow birds to feed on the flower seeds throughout winter—both finches and chickadees are especially fond of aster seeds.
Light
Plant our aster flowers in an area that boasts full sun for the majority of the day. Too much shade can cause lanky plants and fewer flowers, especially for the more common cultivars and hybrids. There are some native species varieties, however, that will do quite well in partially shady conditions.
Soil
Asters appreciate loamy soil that's slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 5.8 to 6.5. If your soil is alkaline, you can correct it by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or compost.
Water
Keep new plantings moist and continue watering regularly until the flowers are finished blooming. As a rule of thumb, the soil your asters reside in should stay consistently moist but never saturated. One thing to note: Try to water the base of your asters without splashing water on the leaves—doing so can cause mildew or fungal growth. One inch of rain or watering once a week is usually recommended for most perennial plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aster flowers thrive in cooler temperatures and are frost hardy, able to withstand near-freezing temperatures temporarily. When it comes to humidity, asters have no special preferences and therefore will not need increased humidity levels or extra spritzing.
Fertilizer
Asters are moderate feeders, and they appreciate being fed with a balanced flower fertilizer twice a month, beginning in spring and continuing until the blooms begin to open. Excessive nutrients can shorten the blooming time, so stop fertilizing asters in August.
Aster Varieties
The taxonomy of asters is somewhat complicated, as it now includes several genera of plants, all within the Asteraceae family. At one time, all the species were considered part of the Aster genus, but several species have now been reassigned to the Symphyotrichum genus. The flowers known as New England asters, for example, now belong to Symphyotrichum and are known as S. novae-angliae. And New York asters are now formally known as Symphyotrichum novi-belgii.
Finally, a number of species still belong to the original Aster genus, including hybrid crosses and their named cultivars. A. amellus and A. thomsonii are two frequent parents used in the hybrid cultivars commonly sold in the nursery trade.
Most gardeners do not need to worry too much about the taxonomical details, as all these plants are sold as asters and all have the familiar daisy-like flowers and perform the same way in the garden. The original species were wildflowers found in North America and Eurasia, but modern garden varieties are usually hybrids bred to produce new colors and tidier plants. Some of the more popular cultivars include:
'Celeste': These dark blue flowers bloom early and feature bright yellow centers.
'Hazy': Another early bloomer, the "hazy" aster boasts raspberry-pink flowers with yellow centers.
'Puff': The puff aster is hardier than many other white cultivars and will bloom among the earliest.
Propagating Asters
Asters can be propagated by collecting seeds or rooting stem cuttings, but by far the easiest way is by simply digging up the root clump and dividing it into pieces for replanting (the woody center portion of the clump should be discarded). The clumps will survive no matter when you perform the division, but if done in late fall or early the following spring, the plants will become established enough to put on a fall display in their first year.
Aster roots are tough, so you will need to use a sharp spade to cut the clumps into pieces. Water thoroughly immediately after replanting, and feed the divisions with bone meal to provide phosphorus for immediate root growth.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Rust and powdery mildew disease can affect aster foliage. Follow proper plant spacing recommendations to improve air circulation, and avoid splashing watering to prevent these problems.
Most insect pests leave asters alone, but lace bugs can be a bother. You're more likely to notice the damage they cause than the insects themselves, which are very small and a nondescript grayish-brown color. If you spot yellowing foliage and leaf drop in the summer, consider using insect soap on the plants, coating all sides of the foliage to impact the hiding pests. Fortunately, lace bug outbreaks precede aster blooming time, so spraying won't affect butterflies and bees.
Although home and garden centers often market asters as a seasonal purchase among displays of pumpkins and hay bales, asters are long-lived perennials that can become a permanent part of your landscape. Though aster flowers have that wildflower look, they are also beautiful in cut-flower arrangements. People aren't the only ones who find asters attractive—pollinators such as bees and butterflies also love aster flowers. If planted in the fall, they can be a rare source of late-season nectar, making them a crucial flower for pollinators.
Asters can be planted almost any time of the year, though spring is typical since that's when potted nursery plants are readily available. These fast-growing perennials will be ready to put on a good fall display in their first year, and once established, they will hold their own for many years.
Botanical Name Symphyotrichum
Common Names Asters, New England asters, frost flowers
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide (varies by type)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Summer, fall
Flower Color Purple, pink, blue, white
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Aster Care
While you can grow aster flowers from seeds planted in the springtime, it may take several years for them to mature into full-sized plants. More often, asters are planted from potted nursery specimens. They do best in loamy, well-draining soil, and desire a good amount of space around the plants to allow space for their roots to expand.
Every three years or so, the root clumps should be dug up and divided to keep the plants from getting too woody and dying out in the centers. The woody center can be discarded, with the outer portions replanted.
When frost finally kills off the foliage, clip off the stems at ground level. This can also be done in the spring to allow birds to feed on the flower seeds throughout winter—both finches and chickadees are especially fond of aster seeds.
Light
Plant our aster flowers in an area that boasts full sun for the majority of the day. Too much shade can cause lanky plants and fewer flowers, especially for the more common cultivars and hybrids. There are some native species varieties, however, that will do quite well in partially shady conditions.
Soil
Asters appreciate loamy soil that's slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 5.8 to 6.5. If your soil is alkaline, you can correct it by adding organic matter such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or compost.
Water
Keep new plantings moist and continue watering regularly until the flowers are finished blooming. As a rule of thumb, the soil your asters reside in should stay consistently moist but never saturated. One thing to note: Try to water the base of your asters without splashing water on the leaves—doing so can cause mildew or fungal growth. One inch of rain or watering once a week is usually recommended for most perennial plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Aster flowers thrive in cooler temperatures and are frost hardy, able to withstand near-freezing temperatures temporarily. When it comes to humidity, asters have no special preferences and therefore will not need increased humidity levels or extra spritzing.
Fertilizer
Asters are moderate feeders, and they appreciate being fed with a balanced flower fertilizer twice a month, beginning in spring and continuing until the blooms begin to open. Excessive nutrients can shorten the blooming time, so stop fertilizing asters in August.
Aster Varieties
The taxonomy of asters is somewhat complicated, as it now includes several genera of plants, all within the Asteraceae family. At one time, all the species were considered part of the Aster genus, but several species have now been reassigned to the Symphyotrichum genus. The flowers known as New England asters, for example, now belong to Symphyotrichum and are known as S. novae-angliae. And New York asters are now formally known as Symphyotrichum novi-belgii.
Finally, a number of species still belong to the original Aster genus, including hybrid crosses and their named cultivars. A. amellus and A. thomsonii are two frequent parents used in the hybrid cultivars commonly sold in the nursery trade.
Most gardeners do not need to worry too much about the taxonomical details, as all these plants are sold as asters and all have the familiar daisy-like flowers and perform the same way in the garden. The original species were wildflowers found in North America and Eurasia, but modern garden varieties are usually hybrids bred to produce new colors and tidier plants. Some of the more popular cultivars include:
'Celeste': These dark blue flowers bloom early and feature bright yellow centers.
'Hazy': Another early bloomer, the "hazy" aster boasts raspberry-pink flowers with yellow centers.
'Puff': The puff aster is hardier than many other white cultivars and will bloom among the earliest.
Propagating Asters
Asters can be propagated by collecting seeds or rooting stem cuttings, but by far the easiest way is by simply digging up the root clump and dividing it into pieces for replanting (the woody center portion of the clump should be discarded). The clumps will survive no matter when you perform the division, but if done in late fall or early the following spring, the plants will become established enough to put on a fall display in their first year.
Aster roots are tough, so you will need to use a sharp spade to cut the clumps into pieces. Water thoroughly immediately after replanting, and feed the divisions with bone meal to provide phosphorus for immediate root growth.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Rust and powdery mildew disease can affect aster foliage. Follow proper plant spacing recommendations to improve air circulation, and avoid splashing watering to prevent these problems.
Most insect pests leave asters alone, but lace bugs can be a bother. You're more likely to notice the damage they cause than the insects themselves, which are very small and a nondescript grayish-brown color. If you spot yellowing foliage and leaf drop in the summer, consider using insect soap on the plants, coating all sides of the foliage to impact the hiding pests. Fortunately, lace bug outbreaks precede aster blooming time, so spraying won't affect butterflies and bees.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月25日
Asparagus is one of the first vegetables that is ready to harvest in the spring and also one of the few perennial vegetables grown in the garden. Since it will be in the same spot for years, it's important to find a spot where it will have all the growing conditions it needs. Asparagus plants are slow to mature, taking three to five years to really fill in and mature, but it's worth the wait. Once they start hitting their stride, you will be harvesting asparagus spears for more than a month every spring.
The asparagus spears are straight young shoots of the plant, with scale-like tips. Later in the season, the foliage matures into an airy, light-green, fern-like cloud, which changes to a golden color in the fall. This perennial is typically planted from roots, or crowns, in early spring.
Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis
Common Name Asparagus
Plant Type Perennial vegetable
Mature Size 5 feet tall, 3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter
Flower Color Pale yellow, greenish
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area Europe, Africa
How to Plant Asparagus
Since you won't be harvesting for three years, asparagus requires some patience and preparation. Because asparagus is a perennial, you'll need to pick an out-of-the-way spot in the vegetable garden without competing plants. Asparagus also needs space, about 4 to 5 feet for each plant. They won’t spread out much the first couple of years, but once established they will quickly fill in. Heirloom varieties need extra space, as there are both males and female plants, meaning they will produce seeds and will self-sow. Newer hybrid varieties are bred to produce only male plants that don't produce seeds, so they need a little less space, as they'll spread only through the growth of the existing crown.
Plants can be started from seed about four weeks before the last expected frost. However, seeds will add several years to your wait. Most people find it easier to grow asparagus from crowns, which are widely available in the spring. They look like a worn out string mop, but they are very much alive. Unlike many plants, the roots of asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure, and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.
The most common way to plant asparagus crowns is in a trench. In the spring, dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Combine your compost, fertilizer, or other organic matter, and create mounds with it about 18 inches apart. Set the crown on top of the mound, spreading the roots down the sides. The top of the crown should be about 6 inches below the soil line. Cover the crown with soil, and water well. As shoots appear, add more soil to fill the trench until it's ultimately filled and flush with the soil line.
Remove weeds when preparing the bed, and keep weeding while the asparagus plants are young. Asparagus roots form a tightly woven mat, from which it is challenging to remove weeds. Add mulch to the asparagus bed to control weeds. Do not add any other plants to the asparagus bed—they dislike any competition for nutrients.
Asparagus Care
Light
Asparagus plants grow best in full sun. Without enough daily sunlight, you will wind up with thin spears and weak plants that are prone to problems.
Soil
For a long-lived perennial like asparagus, it pays to take the time to improve your soil before you plant it. Work in plenty of organic matter and make sure the soil pH is in the neutral 6.5 to 7.0 range. Also get rid of any weeds and large stones in the area before planting. The soil must drain well so the plants are never sitting in water.
Water
Asparagus needs regular watering, especially while young; give it 1 to 2 inches of water per week during its first two growing seasons; give older plants about 1 inch per week. If you give them a good start when you first plant them, and you'll have fewer problems in future years. Consider adding drip irrigation or a soaker hose to the asparagus bed.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, asparagus prefers a temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees at night. In the spring, it will begin to grow shoots when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees. Any frost after the shoots start growing will cause discoloration. You may see slow growth with temperatures above 85 or below 55 degrees.
Fertilizer
When preparing your asparagus bed, add compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer to the trench, as well as rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder that promotes root growth. These nutrients will help your asparagus develop a good, strong root system. To keep the soil rich and help feed the asparagus plants, top dress the soil annually with compost. You can do this in early spring before the shoots appear, or in the fall after the fronds have died back and been cut to the ground. Asparagus is a heavy feeder, and you should also give it a dose of fertilizer in mid-spring when it is actively growing.
Varieties of Asparagus
The newer cultivars are bred to be all male, which means they will put all their energy into growing the plant, not setting seed. Some popular choices include:
'Mary Washington': The most commonly found variety; bred for rust-resistance
'Jersey Giant': Yields early and is resistant to rust and fusarium wilt
'Brock Imperial': Prized for its high yield
'Princeville': Does well in warmer climates
'Purple Passion': A sweet purple variety
Green vs. White Asparagus
White asparagus is the same plant as green asparagus, but it is made white through a process called blanching, which deprives the plant of light so it does not photosynthesize. This is accomplished by covering the growing spears with either soil or plastic tunnels. The final product is smooth, white and virtually fiber-free, provided the harvested spears are immediately chilled to prevent the fiber from forming.
Harvesting
You should not begin harvesting your asparagus spears until the third year after they are planted. They need that time to become established and build up their root systems. This is especially true the first year of planting, when the shoots aren't large. For healthy, well-established asparagus plants, patience is key.
You can harvest a few spears in the third year of growth. The plants are not fully mature, so harvest for two weeks, then let the new spears grow undisturbed after that initial harvest. Fronds will unfurl from the spears, creating the pretty, airy foliage that feeds the plant.
In the fourth year, begin harvesting spears that are 5 to 7 inches long before the tip becomes loose (diameter doesn't matter). You can either snap off the spears or cut them with a knife, just above the soil line. If you use a knife, be careful you don't also slice the later shoots that are still underground and haven't yet poked through. Your harvest time can extend to three weeks.
Harvest for about four to six weeks in the fifth year. In subsequent years, the shoots will continue emerging from the soil throughout the spring. After you've been harvesting for more than a month and the weather starts to warm, the shoots will begin to get spindly. At this point, allow the plants to grow into their mature ferny foliage, which will feed the roots for next year's crop. Asparagus plants can continue producing for 20 to 30 years and can be divided or transplanted if they become overcrowded or could benefit from a move.
Overwintering
Asparagus plants need to be cut to the ground each year before new growth starts. You can do this in late winter or fall. Removing the dead foliage in the fall offers the advantage of preventing problems, like asparagus beetles, from over-wintering in them. However, some gardeners like to leave the foliage for winter interest.
Common Pests
Asparagus does not have too many problems in the garden. Fusarium wilt can be a problem with older varieties, but you can avoid it by planting resistant hybrid varieties.1 The biggest pest is the asparagus beetle.2 Keep watch for them as the spears emerge in spring. They're most active in the afternoon. Hand pick the beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water when there are only a few. Otherwise, diluted Neem oil should keep them under control.
The asparagus spears are straight young shoots of the plant, with scale-like tips. Later in the season, the foliage matures into an airy, light-green, fern-like cloud, which changes to a golden color in the fall. This perennial is typically planted from roots, or crowns, in early spring.
Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis
Common Name Asparagus
Plant Type Perennial vegetable
Mature Size 5 feet tall, 3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH Acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall, winter
Flower Color Pale yellow, greenish
Hardiness Zones 4 to 9
Native Area Europe, Africa
How to Plant Asparagus
Since you won't be harvesting for three years, asparagus requires some patience and preparation. Because asparagus is a perennial, you'll need to pick an out-of-the-way spot in the vegetable garden without competing plants. Asparagus also needs space, about 4 to 5 feet for each plant. They won’t spread out much the first couple of years, but once established they will quickly fill in. Heirloom varieties need extra space, as there are both males and female plants, meaning they will produce seeds and will self-sow. Newer hybrid varieties are bred to produce only male plants that don't produce seeds, so they need a little less space, as they'll spread only through the growth of the existing crown.
Plants can be started from seed about four weeks before the last expected frost. However, seeds will add several years to your wait. Most people find it easier to grow asparagus from crowns, which are widely available in the spring. They look like a worn out string mop, but they are very much alive. Unlike many plants, the roots of asparagus crowns can withstand some air exposure, and you will usually find them for sale loose. They should look firm and fresh, not withered or mushy.
The most common way to plant asparagus crowns is in a trench. In the spring, dig a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Combine your compost, fertilizer, or other organic matter, and create mounds with it about 18 inches apart. Set the crown on top of the mound, spreading the roots down the sides. The top of the crown should be about 6 inches below the soil line. Cover the crown with soil, and water well. As shoots appear, add more soil to fill the trench until it's ultimately filled and flush with the soil line.
Remove weeds when preparing the bed, and keep weeding while the asparagus plants are young. Asparagus roots form a tightly woven mat, from which it is challenging to remove weeds. Add mulch to the asparagus bed to control weeds. Do not add any other plants to the asparagus bed—they dislike any competition for nutrients.
Asparagus Care
Light
Asparagus plants grow best in full sun. Without enough daily sunlight, you will wind up with thin spears and weak plants that are prone to problems.
Soil
For a long-lived perennial like asparagus, it pays to take the time to improve your soil before you plant it. Work in plenty of organic matter and make sure the soil pH is in the neutral 6.5 to 7.0 range. Also get rid of any weeds and large stones in the area before planting. The soil must drain well so the plants are never sitting in water.
Water
Asparagus needs regular watering, especially while young; give it 1 to 2 inches of water per week during its first two growing seasons; give older plants about 1 inch per week. If you give them a good start when you first plant them, and you'll have fewer problems in future years. Consider adding drip irrigation or a soaker hose to the asparagus bed.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, asparagus prefers a temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees at night. In the spring, it will begin to grow shoots when the soil temperature reaches 50 degrees. Any frost after the shoots start growing will cause discoloration. You may see slow growth with temperatures above 85 or below 55 degrees.
Fertilizer
When preparing your asparagus bed, add compost and an all-purpose organic fertilizer to the trench, as well as rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder that promotes root growth. These nutrients will help your asparagus develop a good, strong root system. To keep the soil rich and help feed the asparagus plants, top dress the soil annually with compost. You can do this in early spring before the shoots appear, or in the fall after the fronds have died back and been cut to the ground. Asparagus is a heavy feeder, and you should also give it a dose of fertilizer in mid-spring when it is actively growing.
Varieties of Asparagus
The newer cultivars are bred to be all male, which means they will put all their energy into growing the plant, not setting seed. Some popular choices include:
'Mary Washington': The most commonly found variety; bred for rust-resistance
'Jersey Giant': Yields early and is resistant to rust and fusarium wilt
'Brock Imperial': Prized for its high yield
'Princeville': Does well in warmer climates
'Purple Passion': A sweet purple variety
Green vs. White Asparagus
White asparagus is the same plant as green asparagus, but it is made white through a process called blanching, which deprives the plant of light so it does not photosynthesize. This is accomplished by covering the growing spears with either soil or plastic tunnels. The final product is smooth, white and virtually fiber-free, provided the harvested spears are immediately chilled to prevent the fiber from forming.
Harvesting
You should not begin harvesting your asparagus spears until the third year after they are planted. They need that time to become established and build up their root systems. This is especially true the first year of planting, when the shoots aren't large. For healthy, well-established asparagus plants, patience is key.
You can harvest a few spears in the third year of growth. The plants are not fully mature, so harvest for two weeks, then let the new spears grow undisturbed after that initial harvest. Fronds will unfurl from the spears, creating the pretty, airy foliage that feeds the plant.
In the fourth year, begin harvesting spears that are 5 to 7 inches long before the tip becomes loose (diameter doesn't matter). You can either snap off the spears or cut them with a knife, just above the soil line. If you use a knife, be careful you don't also slice the later shoots that are still underground and haven't yet poked through. Your harvest time can extend to three weeks.
Harvest for about four to six weeks in the fifth year. In subsequent years, the shoots will continue emerging from the soil throughout the spring. After you've been harvesting for more than a month and the weather starts to warm, the shoots will begin to get spindly. At this point, allow the plants to grow into their mature ferny foliage, which will feed the roots for next year's crop. Asparagus plants can continue producing for 20 to 30 years and can be divided or transplanted if they become overcrowded or could benefit from a move.
Overwintering
Asparagus plants need to be cut to the ground each year before new growth starts. You can do this in late winter or fall. Removing the dead foliage in the fall offers the advantage of preventing problems, like asparagus beetles, from over-wintering in them. However, some gardeners like to leave the foliage for winter interest.
Common Pests
Asparagus does not have too many problems in the garden. Fusarium wilt can be a problem with older varieties, but you can avoid it by planting resistant hybrid varieties.1 The biggest pest is the asparagus beetle.2 Keep watch for them as the spears emerge in spring. They're most active in the afternoon. Hand pick the beetles and drop them in a bucket of soapy water when there are only a few. Otherwise, diluted Neem oil should keep them under control.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月23日
If you have not seen an Ashe's magnolia in a garden or its native setting you are not alone. The diminutive magnolia with the larger than life leaves and flowers is a rarity.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月10日
Anthurium is a genus of around 1,000 species of perennial plants native to Central America, northern South America, and the Caribbean. While they can be grown outdoors in the garden in warm climates, anthurium is more often grown as houseplants by enthusiasts willing to put forth the effort for a plant that can be fussy. Some species are highly prized for their bright, exotic flowers, while others are grown mostly for their foliage.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月19日
Sweet alyssum is a colorful carpet of tiny flowers that can be used to blanket your garden or landscape. Native to Europe, the low-growing foliage grows quickly, covering the ground with tiny cross-shaped, four-petal flowers within two months of being planted. Its gray-green leaves are slightly hairy, narrow, and lance-shaped.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
Easy to grow from plant or seed, sweet alyssum is a cool-season flower that can be set out in early spring once all danger of frost has passed (in frost-free climates, sweet alyssum can also be grown throughout the fall and winter). Most varieties will fade in the heat but bloom again in the fall.
Botanical Name Lobularia maritima
Common Names Sweet alyssum, alyssum, carpet flower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3–9 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, Fall
Flower Color White, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Areas Europe
Toxicity Non-toxic
Sweet Alyssum Care
Sweet alyssum is nearly unmatched when it comes to ease of care, and is hardy to both heat and drought. The flowers have a lively, honey-like fragrance and are actually members of the mustard family—they will self-sow and can provide bright color year-after-year, especially in milder climates. Sweet alyssum is generally problem-free, although aphids can become a pest, especially when the plants are under stress.
As sweet alyssum plants spread, they create a living mulch under taller plants. You can use sweet alyssum along edges, in the garden, or to fill nooks and crannies on walkways and walls. The tight, free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers.
Light
Sweet alyssum loves full sun, but it does not like prolonged dry periods. If your region is especially hot and dry, a slightly shaded area will work best for this plant, though you should keep in mind that it can get stem rot or leaf blight if too much shade prevents the leaves and soil from completely drying out. Generally, you should aim to plant your sweet alyssum somewhere where it can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Sweet alyssum plants prefer soils that are of medium moisture and well-draining. They're tolerant of many different planting locations and can even be found on sandy beaches and dunes—though they can also grow on cultivated fields, walls, slopes, and even in cracks in sidewalks or walls. The plants will do poorly in boggy soil or where drainage is a particular problem.
Water
Provide your sweet alyssum plants with at least an inch of water every week, watering them more frequently during hot or dry spells. Make sure the water drains well, otherwise the plant is susceptible to rot. If you plant your sweet alyssum atop stone (or anywhere that dries out quickly), you will need to provide extra water—the same holds true of hot or dry weather.
Temperature and Humidity
In temperate weather, gardeners may be able to grow sweet alyssum all year long, though the actual plants themselves are short-lived. Typically, they self-seed so much that while it seems as though the same plants are surviving all year long, the reality is that new seedlings are filling in. Sweet alyssum plants repeat bloom, although many varieties tend to stop flowering in heat, only to often pick back up again in the fall. In areas of high humidity, you should compensate by reducing the amount of water given to plants.
Fertilizer
Typically, in-ground sweet alyssum plants do not need any fertilizer unless your soil is poor. Plants grown in containers will need monthly feedings using a water-soluble fertilizer for the container plants.
Sweet Alyssum Varieties
There are several common varieties of sweet alyssum:
'Easter Bonnet': An early blooming variety, typically found in lavender or white
'New Carpet of Snow': A low-growing variety, covered in petite white flowers
'Pastel Carpet': A varietal whose blooms blend pink, lavender, and cream
'Snow Crystals': A tidy, mounding variety with translucent white flowers
How to Grow Sweet Alyssum From Seed
You can start sweet alyssum from seed or plant, both of which are widely available at nurseries (though some new cultivars are not available as seeds). To start from seed, simply scatter the seeds atop the soil and press them down lightly so they make good contact with the dirt but are still exposed to light. Keep the soil moist until germination, then water whenever the soil feels dry.
You can direct seed outdoors once the soil feels warm to the touch or start alyssum seed indoors about eight weeks before your last frost date (do not transplant until after all danger of frost). Alyssum is somewhat frost-tolerant once established, but tender transplants are not hardy enough for frost.
Pruning
Deadheading sweet alyssum will keep the plants flowering—they will set new buds quickly. If you have a large drift of plants, shearing them by one-third would be an easier option than deadheading. Some varieties will readily re-seed themselves, but the plants tend to revert to the somewhat gangly species, so pruning will aid in that.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月13日
Tropical plants in the Alocasia genus feature stunning foliage that can become the centerpiece of a garden or room. Large rhizomes or tubers produce enormous heart-shaped or arrow-shaped ears, leading to the popular common name, elephant's ear. They are most often grown as houseplants, but it's common to bring them outdoors during the warm months, sometimes burying the entire pot in the ground to create a natural look.
Alocasias can grow very fast, and in the right conditions, some species are considered invasive, especially along the gulf coast of the United States. Thus, verify with your local municipality before planting this species outdoors in the garden. If you have children or pets, you might want to avoid these plants altogether because the leaves are toxic to humans and animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Alocasia
Common Name Alocasia, elephant ears, African mask
Plant Type Tropical plant grown as a houseplant in non-tropical climates
Mature Size 2–15 feet in height; 2–8 feet in spread (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light indoors; part shade outdoors
Soil Type Loose, well-draining potting mix or crumbly loam
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring and summer
Flower Color Light butter-yellow (flowers are not showy)
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (often grown as a houseplant)
Native Areas Tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, eastern Australia
Toxicity Many species are highly toxic to humans and pets
Elephant's Ear Care
Even with a short growing season in northern climates, these plants can grow rapidly. In the warm summer months, Alocasia plants can produce a new leaf every week, and each new leaf can be twice the size of the previous week's. The leaf shapes can vary from slim arrowheads to wide heart-shaped leaves. have colorful veins and a variety of textures from thick, waxy, slick, and glossy.
Once the plant is in its dormant period (in the late fall and winter), it will begin resting. The rapid leaf growth will stop and the plant will likely remain as-is throughout the winter season. Continue to care for it, and the rapid growth will return the following growing season.
Light
Needs vary from shade to full sunlight, depending on the variety. Ask the grower or seller if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants that grow best with more light.
Soil
Plant elephant's ear in loose, well-drained potting mix or crumbly loamy soil.
Water
Keep Alocasia plants moist all year; they are water-loving plants. There is a fine line with these plants. You want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. They require less water during the winter months because the plant is dormant.
Allow the top few inches of soil to become nearly dry before watering. This will help keep the soil evenly moist. Soggy soil makes the plant susceptible to fungal infections.
Temperature and Humidity
Elephant ear plants will suffer below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Some varieties will die back during colder weather and re-sprout from the rhizome. They require, and thrive in, very humid environments. To raise the humidity around your plant, place it on a tray filled with pebbles and then add water until it rises to just below the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from cold drafts from windows, doors, and air conditioning.
Fertilizer
Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during the growing season or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer.
Is Elephant Ear Toxic?
Alocasia is a very poisonous plant; the leaves contain insoluble oxalate crystals. A human or pet chewing or biting into a leaf releases the crystals which can cause swelling and irritation of the mouth and GI tract. Very rarely, extreme swelling of the upper airway can occur making it difficult to breathe. Keep the plant away from children and pets and call poison control, your doctor, or veterinarian if a person or animal ingests a plant leaf.
Elephant Ear Varieties
There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia plants are primarily hybridized because of the appeal of their leaf form, color, and size. Consider these varieties:
Alocasia sanderiana, also known as the Kris plant, has extremely dark green foliage and provides an exotic-looking houseplant. Its long, pointed leaves have white veins and scalloped edges outlined in white.
Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid that features leathery, wavy-edged, arrowhead-shaped, dark bronze-green leaves (up to 16 inches long)
Alocasia macrorrhizos, also known as giant taro, is a truly enormous plant that can grow up to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide with leaves that can reach 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 4 feet wide.
Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia species will survive in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter filtered sunlight. The bigger varieties can be trained to handle the full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist, and humid. Trim away faded leaves. Like all aroids, Alocasias flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable.
Potting and Repotting
Repot Alocasia varieties annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Also, it's best to divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection.
Propagating Alocasia
Most Alocasia plants can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot it up separately. Keep it warm and moist until new growth begins.
Common Pests/Diseases
While quite striking, these plants can be quite sensitive to a variety of diseases including crown, stem, and root rot, leaf spot, and Xanthomonas infection. Signs of diseases are typically black or dark brown spots on the leaves and a yellowish rim around the spots. You can prevent disease with proper watering practices; do not overwater these plants. Keep the foliage dry and provide proper air circulation around and near the plant.
Common pests of Alocasia include mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Every few weeks, spray the plant with warm soapy water to prevent these pests and keep the plant dust-free. If an infestation occurs, use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or neem oil. These products will kill the pests and their eggs.
Alocasias can grow very fast, and in the right conditions, some species are considered invasive, especially along the gulf coast of the United States. Thus, verify with your local municipality before planting this species outdoors in the garden. If you have children or pets, you might want to avoid these plants altogether because the leaves are toxic to humans and animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Alocasia
Common Name Alocasia, elephant ears, African mask
Plant Type Tropical plant grown as a houseplant in non-tropical climates
Mature Size 2–15 feet in height; 2–8 feet in spread (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light indoors; part shade outdoors
Soil Type Loose, well-draining potting mix or crumbly loam
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring and summer
Flower Color Light butter-yellow (flowers are not showy)
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (often grown as a houseplant)
Native Areas Tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, eastern Australia
Toxicity Many species are highly toxic to humans and pets
Elephant's Ear Care
Even with a short growing season in northern climates, these plants can grow rapidly. In the warm summer months, Alocasia plants can produce a new leaf every week, and each new leaf can be twice the size of the previous week's. The leaf shapes can vary from slim arrowheads to wide heart-shaped leaves. have colorful veins and a variety of textures from thick, waxy, slick, and glossy.
Once the plant is in its dormant period (in the late fall and winter), it will begin resting. The rapid leaf growth will stop and the plant will likely remain as-is throughout the winter season. Continue to care for it, and the rapid growth will return the following growing season.
Light
Needs vary from shade to full sunlight, depending on the variety. Ask the grower or seller if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants that grow best with more light.
Soil
Plant elephant's ear in loose, well-drained potting mix or crumbly loamy soil.
Water
Keep Alocasia plants moist all year; they are water-loving plants. There is a fine line with these plants. You want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. They require less water during the winter months because the plant is dormant.
Allow the top few inches of soil to become nearly dry before watering. This will help keep the soil evenly moist. Soggy soil makes the plant susceptible to fungal infections.
Temperature and Humidity
Elephant ear plants will suffer below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Some varieties will die back during colder weather and re-sprout from the rhizome. They require, and thrive in, very humid environments. To raise the humidity around your plant, place it on a tray filled with pebbles and then add water until it rises to just below the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from cold drafts from windows, doors, and air conditioning.
Fertilizer
Alocasias can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during the growing season or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer.
Is Elephant Ear Toxic?
Alocasia is a very poisonous plant; the leaves contain insoluble oxalate crystals. A human or pet chewing or biting into a leaf releases the crystals which can cause swelling and irritation of the mouth and GI tract. Very rarely, extreme swelling of the upper airway can occur making it difficult to breathe. Keep the plant away from children and pets and call poison control, your doctor, or veterinarian if a person or animal ingests a plant leaf.
Elephant Ear Varieties
There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia plants are primarily hybridized because of the appeal of their leaf form, color, and size. Consider these varieties:
Alocasia sanderiana, also known as the Kris plant, has extremely dark green foliage and provides an exotic-looking houseplant. Its long, pointed leaves have white veins and scalloped edges outlined in white.
Alocasia x amazonica is a hybrid that features leathery, wavy-edged, arrowhead-shaped, dark bronze-green leaves (up to 16 inches long)
Alocasia macrorrhizos, also known as giant taro, is a truly enormous plant that can grow up to 15 feet tall and 8 feet wide with leaves that can reach 3 to 4 feet long and 2 to 4 feet wide.
Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia species will survive in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter filtered sunlight. The bigger varieties can be trained to handle the full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist, and humid. Trim away faded leaves. Like all aroids, Alocasias flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable.
Potting and Repotting
Repot Alocasia varieties annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Also, it's best to divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection.
Propagating Alocasia
Most Alocasia plants can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot it up separately. Keep it warm and moist until new growth begins.
Common Pests/Diseases
While quite striking, these plants can be quite sensitive to a variety of diseases including crown, stem, and root rot, leaf spot, and Xanthomonas infection. Signs of diseases are typically black or dark brown spots on the leaves and a yellowish rim around the spots. You can prevent disease with proper watering practices; do not overwater these plants. Keep the foliage dry and provide proper air circulation around and near the plant.
Common pests of Alocasia include mealybugs, scale, aphids, and spider mites. Every few weeks, spray the plant with warm soapy water to prevent these pests and keep the plant dust-free. If an infestation occurs, use an ultra-fine insecticide oil or neem oil. These products will kill the pests and their eggs.
0
0
