成长记
kensong
2018年09月11日
Removed from current soil which was soggy, air dry the roots before repotting into succulent fast draining soil.
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成长记
kensong
2018年09月07日
Acquired another and this time I've to make sure I repot in a more gritty and fast draining soil after what happened to the first one.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Pampas grass, also known as Cortaderia selloana, is native to the moist South American grasslands, known also as the pampas. The fast-growing grass can live in almost any habitat, but it grows especially well in rich soil and mild climates. Since it can grow 6 to 10 feet tall, each tussock or clump should be given plenty of space between it and other plantings. The leaves are gray or bluish-green with narrowly tapering tips and sharp, serrated edges. Pampas grass can be used as an ornamental plant in a garden or lawn or used as a hedge due to its size. Large, flowering stalks range in color from white, yellow and pink. They grow from the base of the tussock and can reach 12 feet in height. During its lifespan, each plant can produce more than 1 million seeds. Pampas grass is banned in California and Hawaii, where it is listed as an invasive weed.
Definition
Life Cycle
Pampas grass is a perennial. The plant goes dormant during the winter and resumes growth in the spring. The plants germinate in the spring, slowly producing bulbs the first year. Most plants take several years before flowering, especially on drier sites. Flowering occurs primarily in late summer. Plants are fully grown, from seed germination to maturity, in 2-4 years. The center stems of pampas grass will die after one growing season, but new shoots of leaves arise from the edge of the plant to increase its size. The lifespan of pampas grass is 10-15 years.
Maintenance
Location: In heavy frost zones, keep the plant sheltered. Plants prefer full sun and rich, well-drained soil.
Pruning: While pampas grass is a very low-maintenance plant, it must be pruned back to 2-3 feet every fall. To encourage growth, cut the plant back before it goes dormant. To discourage growth, cut back after the plant goes dormant. Also exercise extreme caution when pruning due to the razor-sharp edges of the leaves.
Watering: Pampas grass is subject to root rot, so do not water excessively.
Removal: Pampas grass is very difficult to remove: The roots grow extremely deep. Seedlings to small plants can be dug up by hand. Larger plants should be removed using heavy machinery.
Definition
Life Cycle
Pampas grass is a perennial. The plant goes dormant during the winter and resumes growth in the spring. The plants germinate in the spring, slowly producing bulbs the first year. Most plants take several years before flowering, especially on drier sites. Flowering occurs primarily in late summer. Plants are fully grown, from seed germination to maturity, in 2-4 years. The center stems of pampas grass will die after one growing season, but new shoots of leaves arise from the edge of the plant to increase its size. The lifespan of pampas grass is 10-15 years.
Maintenance
Location: In heavy frost zones, keep the plant sheltered. Plants prefer full sun and rich, well-drained soil.
Pruning: While pampas grass is a very low-maintenance plant, it must be pruned back to 2-3 feet every fall. To encourage growth, cut the plant back before it goes dormant. To discourage growth, cut back after the plant goes dormant. Also exercise extreme caution when pruning due to the razor-sharp edges of the leaves.
Watering: Pampas grass is subject to root rot, so do not water excessively.
Removal: Pampas grass is very difficult to remove: The roots grow extremely deep. Seedlings to small plants can be dug up by hand. Larger plants should be removed using heavy machinery.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Kangaroo paw plants (Anigozanthos spp.) have long green leaves and finely textured flowering stems in tones of green, red or yellow. These perennial Australian natives grow in warm soil with a sandy composition that drains quickly. Although these plants are drought tolerant, summer watering can extend the flowering period. Tall kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos flavidus) is the one you're most likely to find and it grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
Choosing a Spot
Kangaroo paws grow in open, sunny sites, where water drains quickly through soil consisting mainly of sand or gravel. The plants are susceptible to frost damage, but planting them close to the south-facing side of a building offers some protection from cold damage in USDA zone 9.
Caring for Paws
Kangaroo paws need little or no fertilizer, but you can improve their growth with a slow-release 12-4-8 fertilizer spread over the soil around the plant at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 square foot. Apply the fertilizer once every three months or according to label instructions. Removing the fans of flowers helps stimulate growth because each fan of flowers only blooms once. Remove the fans when they start to wilt.
Watering Kangaroo Paws
Species of kangaroo paw plants other than tall kangaroo paw are adapted to periods of summer drought and enter a period of dormancy unless they are watered daily. Daily drip irrigation from a soaker hose will prevent kangaroo paw from going dormant in summer but will also shorten its lifespan considerably. Once a kangaroo paw has entered dormancy, watering it quickly rots the plant.
Controlling Snails
Snails can cause serious damage to kangaroo paws. Snails hide during the day and feed at night. Look for cool, dark places beneath landscaping timbers, boards and rocks that could provide shelter for snails near your kangaroo paws and remove them. Eliminating snails' habitat and regularly removing the pests by hand are a simple and effective way to control snails on kangaroo paws. Check your plants for the slimy trails each day until their numbers decline and then continue checking them weekly.
Treating Fungal Diseases
Kangaroo paws are susceptible to ink spot, which is a fungal infection that blackens flower stems and leaves, beginning at the leaf tips. Spacing plants further apart, keeping them in good health and avoiding overwatering help prevent this disease from taking hold in kangaroo paws. You can treat plants that are already infected using a foliar fungicidal spray containing mancozeb. Add 3 teaspoons of mancozeb for every 1 gallon of water you plan to use. Add the fungicide to the sprayer's tank before the water to ensure it mixes properly. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves, pants and a long-sleeved shirt while mixing and spraying will reduce accidental contact with the fungicide. Mancozeb is most effective when used to thoroughly coat foliage of affected plants once every seven to 10 days throughout the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Contrary to its name, reindeer moss is not a moss at all but a lichen that grows on rocks and in the sandy soil on the outcroppings of the forest. It was named after reindeer because it is a favored treat for reindeer and caribou in northern regions. Reindeer moss tends to be hearty and requires little care to thrive, however you will need to set the proper conditions in your garden if you plan to grow it.
Step 1
Water reindeer moss lightly during dry seasons. Most mosses and lichens that grow naturally require little in the way of watering, as they tend to store water. If you plant reindeer moss in your moss garden and it is not natural to your area, you may need to water it regularly during droughts to keep it from drying out.
Step 2
Keep it shaded. Reindeer moss is a lichen, which is an algae and fungus combination that thrives on cool weather and shade. If planting reindeer moss, make sure you find a place that receives little sunlight.
Step 3
Provide your reindeer moss with good quality air. Reindeer moss does not grow roots, and draws minimal nourishment from host plants like trees. It depends on the air for almost all of its nutrients, and will not sustain itself in highly polluted areas.
Step 4
Avoid allowing animals to nibble at your reindeer moss. Reindeer moss is a slow-growing lichen species that can take up to 30 years to regrow if the top layer is damaged.
Step 1
Water reindeer moss lightly during dry seasons. Most mosses and lichens that grow naturally require little in the way of watering, as they tend to store water. If you plant reindeer moss in your moss garden and it is not natural to your area, you may need to water it regularly during droughts to keep it from drying out.
Step 2
Keep it shaded. Reindeer moss is a lichen, which is an algae and fungus combination that thrives on cool weather and shade. If planting reindeer moss, make sure you find a place that receives little sunlight.
Step 3
Provide your reindeer moss with good quality air. Reindeer moss does not grow roots, and draws minimal nourishment from host plants like trees. It depends on the air for almost all of its nutrients, and will not sustain itself in highly polluted areas.
Step 4
Avoid allowing animals to nibble at your reindeer moss. Reindeer moss is a slow-growing lichen species that can take up to 30 years to regrow if the top layer is damaged.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
Hostas (Hosta spp.) are usually prized for their foliage, but yellow and brown leaves are not the most desirable of rewards. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they thrive in rich, moist soil and can tolerate full shade. Healthy hostas glow in shades of blue, green, gold and cream. Unfortunately, that fabulous foliage will fade if hostas are cared for improperly or are damaged by pests or diseases.
The Root of the Problem
Anything that damages the roots of hostas can cause yellow and brown leaves. The damaged roots are unable to absorb nutrients and water, and as a result, the plant suffers or even dies, depending on the extent of the damage. Although hostas prefer moist, cool soils, heavy and wet soil in spring and winter can lead to root rot -- a fungal disease that rots away the roots. Well-drained soil is a must for these plants, and pots containing hostas should have a hole in the bottom to allow for good drainage. Burrowing animals, such as voles, can also damage the roots of the plants. Voles prefer to create their tunnels under lawns, mulch and areas with loose soil, so try planting your hostas among tree roots or near other underground barriers that will naturally block tunneling animals.
Let There Be Light
Many home gardeners use hostas to brighten up shady corners of their gardens, but hostas are brighter when they receive some sunlight. They key here is knowing how much is too much. Some hostas are much more tolerant of direct sunlight than others. Too much hot, direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of some varieties, causing them to turn yellow and brown. Choose varieties that can withstand the sun, such as "Sun Power" hybrids. In general, home gardeners in USDA zones 6 and above should avoid planting hostas in direct sunlight, according to the Missouri Botanical Gardens website. Making sure your hostas get enough water during hot, dry periods can also help.
Vexing Viruses
Hostas can sometimes suffer from something called "Virus X," which causes the leaves to develop dark spots, rings, browning or twisting of the leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. In addition, these symptoms often mimic those of spontaneous mutations, or sports, which some home gardeners find desirable. In general, however, it's best to remove plants that suffer from these symptoms, especially if they appear all over the plant. If they appear in just one section of the plant or on only a few leaves, you can just remove those leaves.
Frustrating Fungi
Fungi don't just affect the roots of hosta plants. They can also damage the stems and leaf petioles. In fact, petiole rot is a common and serious affliction of hostas. When this happens, the leaves are cut off from the main stem and are unable to receive nutrients. They turn yellow and brown, and pull away easily from the plant. Southern blight, which rots the stem, and anthracnose, which usually attacks the leaves themselves, are also fungal diseases that can cause hosta foliage to turn yellow and brown. Avoid these problems as best you can by watering at the ground level, rather than from overhead, and by watering early in the morning so that the sun can dry off the leaves. Overcrowded conditions can also contribute to fungal diseases, so make sure air can circulate around your hosta plants.
The Root of the Problem
Anything that damages the roots of hostas can cause yellow and brown leaves. The damaged roots are unable to absorb nutrients and water, and as a result, the plant suffers or even dies, depending on the extent of the damage. Although hostas prefer moist, cool soils, heavy and wet soil in spring and winter can lead to root rot -- a fungal disease that rots away the roots. Well-drained soil is a must for these plants, and pots containing hostas should have a hole in the bottom to allow for good drainage. Burrowing animals, such as voles, can also damage the roots of the plants. Voles prefer to create their tunnels under lawns, mulch and areas with loose soil, so try planting your hostas among tree roots or near other underground barriers that will naturally block tunneling animals.
Let There Be Light
Many home gardeners use hostas to brighten up shady corners of their gardens, but hostas are brighter when they receive some sunlight. They key here is knowing how much is too much. Some hostas are much more tolerant of direct sunlight than others. Too much hot, direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of some varieties, causing them to turn yellow and brown. Choose varieties that can withstand the sun, such as "Sun Power" hybrids. In general, home gardeners in USDA zones 6 and above should avoid planting hostas in direct sunlight, according to the Missouri Botanical Gardens website. Making sure your hostas get enough water during hot, dry periods can also help.
Vexing Viruses
Hostas can sometimes suffer from something called "Virus X," which causes the leaves to develop dark spots, rings, browning or twisting of the leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. In addition, these symptoms often mimic those of spontaneous mutations, or sports, which some home gardeners find desirable. In general, however, it's best to remove plants that suffer from these symptoms, especially if they appear all over the plant. If they appear in just one section of the plant or on only a few leaves, you can just remove those leaves.
Frustrating Fungi
Fungi don't just affect the roots of hosta plants. They can also damage the stems and leaf petioles. In fact, petiole rot is a common and serious affliction of hostas. When this happens, the leaves are cut off from the main stem and are unable to receive nutrients. They turn yellow and brown, and pull away easily from the plant. Southern blight, which rots the stem, and anthracnose, which usually attacks the leaves themselves, are also fungal diseases that can cause hosta foliage to turn yellow and brown. Avoid these problems as best you can by watering at the ground level, rather than from overhead, and by watering early in the morning so that the sun can dry off the leaves. Overcrowded conditions can also contribute to fungal diseases, so make sure air can circulate around your hosta plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月26日
Azaleas, a member of the Rhododendron family, are shrubs that feature green, glossy leaves and clumps of colorful flowers--if grown under the right conditions. Once the heavy clay, alkaline Texas soil has been properly prepared to accommodate these picky bushes, the azalea has been planted in the soil properly and the appropriate spot to receive afternoon shade to protect the shrub from the Texas sun has been chosen the shrub rewards with showy flowers that require only a small amount of attention to maintain in Texas.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
Step 1
Choose a location where the plant receives afternoon shade, such as the east or north side of your home, to protect the shrub from the Texas sun. Encore azaleas, which bloom in the spring and then again--for an encore--in the fall, are more tolerant of alkaline soils and heat, making them a good choice for Texas.
Step 2
Place ground pine bark, peat moss and sandy loam on top of the chosen planting spot. Mix with the shovel and build a mound about 12 to 18 inches high and about 4 feet in diameter. The shallow roots of the azaleas grow in this well-aerated, nutrient-rich mixture rather than the heavy clay soil of Texas.
Step 3
Spread expanded shale on top of mound until shale is 2 inches deep.
Step 4
Sprinkle five handfuls of fertilizer on the mound. Mix the planting medium with the shovel, maintaining the mound.
Step 5
Place the shrub in the bucket of water and ensure the root ball is completely submerged. Soak until no bubbles rise to the top of the water. Remove shrub and cut the roots vertically in three places using the knife, allowing for new root growth.
Step 6
Push dirt to the side in the middle of the mound. Make a hole almost the depth of the root ball. Place the azalea in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is slightly above ground.
Step 7
Push the dirt back around the outside of the root ball, leaving the crown exposed. Mulch the entire mound without covering the crown or allowing the mulch around the trunk of the azalea. Mulch about 3 inches deep. Water well.
Step 8
Check soil around the new shrub every day to ensure soil is slightly damp. Water when soil is dry. When growth of new leaves and flowers is obvious, water the root area well once or twice per week, depending on the weather. Maintain mulch depth for retention of moisture. Azaleas have shallow root systems and dry out quickly in the Texas heat.
Step 9
Prune leggy stems just after flowering to make the shrub dense and compact. Do not prune or fertilize after budding begins around late July. Fertilize after pruning.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata), sometimes called sword ferns, have bright green fronds that grow up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The fronds have serrated edges and a rough texture. They are shade-lovers and grow best in soil that is very rich and lightly moist. Boston ferns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 8B through 11 and can be planted outdoors during any season. Frost will kill the foliage during winter, but new fronds emerge from the center of the plant once temperatures warm in spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
Step 1
Use a garden fork to loosen the soil 10 to 12 inches deep. Amend with 2 to 3 inches of organic compost.
Step 2
Dig a hole the same depth and 2 to 3 inches wider than the fern's root system. Place the roots into the soil at the same level they were growing before. Backfill with the loosened soil and water until it is well-moistened, but not soggy.
Step 3
Check the soil regularly and water whenever the top inch is dry.
Step 4
Feed once each month, from spring until fall, with houseplant fertilizer.
Step 5
Clip off damaged fronds as necessary.
Step 6
Divide every two to three years in early spring.
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成长记
kensong
2018年08月10日
Noticed black leaves and realised it's rotted to the stem and many leaves just dropped off. The soil was waterlogged since I left it our and it got rain water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
To grow papayas, you need only four things: a frost-free climate, oodles of sunshine, plenty of water and excellent soil. If you can give your plant these things, the entire wonderful world of papaya cultivation can be yours.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
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