文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月23日
Vidalia onions are well known for their culinary uses thanks to their unusual sweetness. This is largely the result of the locale in which they are grown--Vidalia, Georgia--an area without sulfur in the soil, which typically gives onions their pungent flavor and governs their acidity. Technically, according to government legislation, you cannot grow Vidalia onions unless you are living in a certain counties in Georgia. For that same reason, one cannot purchase Vidalia seeds. They don’t really exist. However if you were to grow onions in a low sulfur environment from Granex onion seeds, you would have your own onions completely indistinguishable from the real thing.
Step 1
Begin by preparing your soil in early September. You will need to first neutralize the sulfur in the soil before you plant your seeds in order to get that characteristic sweetness that Vidalia onions are known for. You will need about 30 lbs. of powdered limestone per 100 square feet of soil. Spread the limestone over the soil and then mix it into the ground as deeply and thoroughly as you can with a hoe and shovel (or roto-tiller).
Step 2
Water the soil until it’s become a muddy mess and leave it for about a month. Over time the sulfur in the soil will bind with the limestone, preventing the sulfur from being capable of being absorbed by your onions.
Step 3
Dig trenches in the soil, about 3 inches deep and spaced 1 foot apart from one another. Into each trench pour granulated super phosphate, also known as banding phosphorous. This will be all the fertilizer your onions will ever need. Studies have shown that seeds that have been fertilized in this way sprout faster and produce larger onions. You should use 1 cup for every 20 feet of trench. Cover the trenches back over when you’re done.
Step 4
Plant your seeds in early October, placing each seed ¼ inch deep into the soil following the lines of your buried fertilizer. Place one seed every 6 inches. Water your rows lightly once a day and you should have sprouts within a week.
Step 5
Decrease your watering over the winter as your seedlings will not grow much. If you live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate the onion’s stalks will likely not wither. If they do, do not panic. The seedling is still viable and has already been germinated; it will survive the winter and continue its normal growth with the onset of spring. If you live in climates which drop below 40 degrees F, you may notice buds forming on the sides of the onion sprouts. This is a process called bolting, by which your onion is producing more onion plants. This is a good thing; the downside is that the primary onion will only grow to about half its normal size before it’s ripe for harvesting. So you end up trading size for quantity.
Step 6
Watch for small flies buzzing around your onions in great quantities. This is a sign of one of the only pest problems called whitefly, also known as screwfly for the odd patterns they make in the air. The best way to get rid of them and any other possible pests is to spray your onions with a safe pesticide known as Sevin once a month. Remember that even a farm safe pesticide such as Sevin can still have negative effects if ingested, so you always want to wash you onions thoroughly after harvesting.
Step 7
Begin harvesting in late summer only when the tops of the onion stalks have withered and fallen off. Simply uproot the onions with your hands, shake the dirt off and wash them well. Cut off the roots and the top inch of each onion. From here you can use them immediately in cooking or store them separately in a cool, dry, lightless environment. If you do this they can last up to 6 months before rotting.
Step 1
Begin by preparing your soil in early September. You will need to first neutralize the sulfur in the soil before you plant your seeds in order to get that characteristic sweetness that Vidalia onions are known for. You will need about 30 lbs. of powdered limestone per 100 square feet of soil. Spread the limestone over the soil and then mix it into the ground as deeply and thoroughly as you can with a hoe and shovel (or roto-tiller).
Step 2
Water the soil until it’s become a muddy mess and leave it for about a month. Over time the sulfur in the soil will bind with the limestone, preventing the sulfur from being capable of being absorbed by your onions.
Step 3
Dig trenches in the soil, about 3 inches deep and spaced 1 foot apart from one another. Into each trench pour granulated super phosphate, also known as banding phosphorous. This will be all the fertilizer your onions will ever need. Studies have shown that seeds that have been fertilized in this way sprout faster and produce larger onions. You should use 1 cup for every 20 feet of trench. Cover the trenches back over when you’re done.
Step 4
Plant your seeds in early October, placing each seed ¼ inch deep into the soil following the lines of your buried fertilizer. Place one seed every 6 inches. Water your rows lightly once a day and you should have sprouts within a week.
Step 5
Decrease your watering over the winter as your seedlings will not grow much. If you live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate the onion’s stalks will likely not wither. If they do, do not panic. The seedling is still viable and has already been germinated; it will survive the winter and continue its normal growth with the onset of spring. If you live in climates which drop below 40 degrees F, you may notice buds forming on the sides of the onion sprouts. This is a process called bolting, by which your onion is producing more onion plants. This is a good thing; the downside is that the primary onion will only grow to about half its normal size before it’s ripe for harvesting. So you end up trading size for quantity.
Step 6
Watch for small flies buzzing around your onions in great quantities. This is a sign of one of the only pest problems called whitefly, also known as screwfly for the odd patterns they make in the air. The best way to get rid of them and any other possible pests is to spray your onions with a safe pesticide known as Sevin once a month. Remember that even a farm safe pesticide such as Sevin can still have negative effects if ingested, so you always want to wash you onions thoroughly after harvesting.
Step 7
Begin harvesting in late summer only when the tops of the onion stalks have withered and fallen off. Simply uproot the onions with your hands, shake the dirt off and wash them well. Cut off the roots and the top inch of each onion. From here you can use them immediately in cooking or store them separately in a cool, dry, lightless environment. If you do this they can last up to 6 months before rotting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月22日
Pumpkins take up a large space in the home garden. To grow them successfully, you need to know how to prepare the soil, when to start the seeds, how far apart to space them and when to harvest the pumpkins.
Step 1
Check the back of the seed packet for the number of days until maturity. If you are growing pumpkins for Halloween, add a week or two and then count backwards to arrive at the best planting date. It will most likely be in late spring or early summer. Pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate frost, but the pumpkins will rot before Halloween if you plant them too soon in a warm climate.
Step 2
Prepare the soil for the pumpkin bed in an area that receives sun. Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, dig a hole 2 feet across and 1 foot deep. Fill it with a mix of compost and soil to which you've added a handful of slow-release fertilizer. Form a mound over the hole about 4 inches high in the center.
Step 3
Make additional mounds. Space them 10 feet apart. Pumpkins like to sprawl and require plenty of room.
Step 4
Sow six seeds in a circle in each mound. Push them about one inch deep into the soil and spaced four to six inches apart. After the seeds sprout, remove all but the strongest two seedlings. If you don't, you'll have all foliage and no pumpkins.
Step 5
Weed the bed regularly. Pumpkins can tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather, but if you have extended periods of heat, water them. As the pumpkins grow, slip a shingle or tile under each one to lift it slightly from the soil. This foils some insects and improves the appearance of the pumpkin on that side.
Step 6
Harvest all the pumpkins when they turn orange and before a heavy frost hits. To harvest pumpkins, cut the stem about three inches from the pumpkin. Pumpkins broken from their stems do not keep well.
Step 1
Check the back of the seed packet for the number of days until maturity. If you are growing pumpkins for Halloween, add a week or two and then count backwards to arrive at the best planting date. It will most likely be in late spring or early summer. Pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate frost, but the pumpkins will rot before Halloween if you plant them too soon in a warm climate.
Step 2
Prepare the soil for the pumpkin bed in an area that receives sun. Because pumpkins are heavy feeders, dig a hole 2 feet across and 1 foot deep. Fill it with a mix of compost and soil to which you've added a handful of slow-release fertilizer. Form a mound over the hole about 4 inches high in the center.
Step 3
Make additional mounds. Space them 10 feet apart. Pumpkins like to sprawl and require plenty of room.
Step 4
Sow six seeds in a circle in each mound. Push them about one inch deep into the soil and spaced four to six inches apart. After the seeds sprout, remove all but the strongest two seedlings. If you don't, you'll have all foliage and no pumpkins.
Step 5
Weed the bed regularly. Pumpkins can tolerate short periods of hot, dry weather, but if you have extended periods of heat, water them. As the pumpkins grow, slip a shingle or tile under each one to lift it slightly from the soil. This foils some insects and improves the appearance of the pumpkin on that side.
Step 6
Harvest all the pumpkins when they turn orange and before a heavy frost hits. To harvest pumpkins, cut the stem about three inches from the pumpkin. Pumpkins broken from their stems do not keep well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月21日
According to the Gardener's Supply Company, seedlings become "leggy" when they do not receive enough hours of light or too much nitrogen in the soil. This term describes tall, spindly and unstable stalks and an overall malnourished look. Broccoli is one of many vegetables that exhibits leggy characteristics when it doesn't get enough light, and it is sometimes difficult to revive the plant from this state. If your broccoli seedlings have a long, thin stem or have fallen over, there is a chance of saving them if they have not withered too much, are white in color or have black spots on them.
Step 1
Whether your broccoli sprouts are indoors or in an outside plot, you will need to give them more light if you hope to salvage them. Move indoor seedlings to south-facing windows to give them more hours of sun, or set up a small fluorescent light to help them grow before moving them outdoors. Transplant outdoor broccoli plants to a sunnier location in your garden, taking care not to rip the fragile shoots when uprooting them.
Step 2
Amend the soil around your leggy seedlings to reduce the amount of nitrogen, which can cause plants to produce weak sprouts. Feed leggy broccoli with fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen, and water regularly to dissipate the element.
Step 3
Broccoli seedlings that are so leggy they have fallen over can be saved by being cut back. Cut the young plant back to its first true leaves, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil, and stake it if necessary.
Step 4
Continue supporting your broccoli seedlings until they are mature and sturdy enough to go without such attentive care. Check their stake holdings every few days to make sure the seedlings are receiving the best system of support, and make sure the soil is moist, but not flooded or over saturated. Young broccoli plants benefit from a nitrogen-based fertilizer, once it has recovered from its "leggy" symptoms, and they require adequate sun and water, especially as the edible flower heads develop.
Step 1
Whether your broccoli sprouts are indoors or in an outside plot, you will need to give them more light if you hope to salvage them. Move indoor seedlings to south-facing windows to give them more hours of sun, or set up a small fluorescent light to help them grow before moving them outdoors. Transplant outdoor broccoli plants to a sunnier location in your garden, taking care not to rip the fragile shoots when uprooting them.
Step 2
Amend the soil around your leggy seedlings to reduce the amount of nitrogen, which can cause plants to produce weak sprouts. Feed leggy broccoli with fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen, and water regularly to dissipate the element.
Step 3
Broccoli seedlings that are so leggy they have fallen over can be saved by being cut back. Cut the young plant back to its first true leaves, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil, and stake it if necessary.
Step 4
Continue supporting your broccoli seedlings until they are mature and sturdy enough to go without such attentive care. Check their stake holdings every few days to make sure the seedlings are receiving the best system of support, and make sure the soil is moist, but not flooded or over saturated. Young broccoli plants benefit from a nitrogen-based fertilizer, once it has recovered from its "leggy" symptoms, and they require adequate sun and water, especially as the edible flower heads develop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月20日
Zucchini is a prolific vegetable that grows well in most soil as long as it gets plenty of sunlight. The leaves of the zucchini plant are substantial in size and offer shade for the vegetables beneath. Zucchini vegetables themselves do not require direct sunlight. Direct sunlight on the zucchini vegetable can cause the skin to harden and mature too quickly. Pruning zucchini can be beneficial when garden space is an issue, to promote new growth, and for safety purposes when harvesting zucchini.
Step 1
Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini.
Step 2
Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant.
Step 3
Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production.
Step 4
Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.
Step 1
Using a sharp knife, cut away a few oversize leaves of the zucchini plant after it has started bearing zucchini.
Step 2
Cut the leaves at the base of the zucchini plant.
Step 3
Avoid pruning near flowering blossoms or new growth as it could reduce vegetable production.
Step 4
Discard pruned leaves away from the zucchini plant to avoid squash aphids and other insects that could pose problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月19日
Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), also called summer squash, is a warm-season vegetable that should be planted after all danger of frost has passed. A frost-tender annual, zucchini can be once the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Most zucchini varieties reach maturity in roughly 60 days and are best harvested when still young and tender.
Growth Stages
Plant the large zucchini seeds directly into the garden in the spring, or get a jump-start on the season by starting the seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost date for your area. Once the seeds have germinated, they develop quickly into vines that need plenty of space to sprawl. Flowers open in about 50 days, and the tiny squash appear soon after that. Growth proceeds rapidly from that point, and it's a good idea to start harvesting when the zucchini are no more than 6 to 8 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter. At this stage, the squash is tender and sweet, and the seeds are small. It's okay to let them grow a little longer, but quality deteriorates rapidly in zucchini that are allowed to stay on the vine too long.
Picking Strategies
The large leaves on zucchini or summer squash plants are often prickly and conceal the bounty of fruit growing beneath them. When harvesting, select a dry sunny day, because working in the wet plants promotes disease. Gently move the leaves aside, being careful not to break them or damage any rootlets that have formed along the vines and taken hold in the soil. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick stem about halfway from the blossom end, and harvest as many zucchini as you can to keep the plants producing.
Past-Due Picking
Zucchini that are left on the vines too long past the ideal picking time often grow large, their skin toughens and the flesh becomes more fibrous. The seeds grow larger inside the fruit, too, and the once-tender and sweet flesh becomes waterlogged and loses much of its flavor and firm texture. While the squash are still edible at this stage, you generally have to peel them and remove the seeds and any tough fibers that have developed around the seeds. Zucchinis that were harvested young retain their shape during cooking, making them ideal for stir-fries and for stuffing and baking whole, while older fruit turns mushy more quickly because they take longer to cook.
Storage and Preservation
When storing your newly picked zucchini, opt for a paper bag over a plastic grocery bag, because the plastic encourages the production of moisture released by the squash. Stored in a paper bag in the crisper tray of your refrigerator, the zucchini will keep for up to 10 days. If you have a bounty of young tender zucchini, freeze what you can't use within 10 days by washing the squash, cutting it into rounds or cubes, and blanching it for about two minutes in boiling water. Remove the squash from the boiling water, plunge it into ice water, drain it on paper towels and freeze in plastic containers or plastic bags.
Growth Stages
Plant the large zucchini seeds directly into the garden in the spring, or get a jump-start on the season by starting the seeds indoors several weeks before the last frost date for your area. Once the seeds have germinated, they develop quickly into vines that need plenty of space to sprawl. Flowers open in about 50 days, and the tiny squash appear soon after that. Growth proceeds rapidly from that point, and it's a good idea to start harvesting when the zucchini are no more than 6 to 8 inches long and up to 3 inches in diameter. At this stage, the squash is tender and sweet, and the seeds are small. It's okay to let them grow a little longer, but quality deteriorates rapidly in zucchini that are allowed to stay on the vine too long.
Picking Strategies
The large leaves on zucchini or summer squash plants are often prickly and conceal the bounty of fruit growing beneath them. When harvesting, select a dry sunny day, because working in the wet plants promotes disease. Gently move the leaves aside, being careful not to break them or damage any rootlets that have formed along the vines and taken hold in the soil. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick stem about halfway from the blossom end, and harvest as many zucchini as you can to keep the plants producing.
Past-Due Picking
Zucchini that are left on the vines too long past the ideal picking time often grow large, their skin toughens and the flesh becomes more fibrous. The seeds grow larger inside the fruit, too, and the once-tender and sweet flesh becomes waterlogged and loses much of its flavor and firm texture. While the squash are still edible at this stage, you generally have to peel them and remove the seeds and any tough fibers that have developed around the seeds. Zucchinis that were harvested young retain their shape during cooking, making them ideal for stir-fries and for stuffing and baking whole, while older fruit turns mushy more quickly because they take longer to cook.
Storage and Preservation
When storing your newly picked zucchini, opt for a paper bag over a plastic grocery bag, because the plastic encourages the production of moisture released by the squash. Stored in a paper bag in the crisper tray of your refrigerator, the zucchini will keep for up to 10 days. If you have a bounty of young tender zucchini, freeze what you can't use within 10 days by washing the squash, cutting it into rounds or cubes, and blanching it for about two minutes in boiling water. Remove the squash from the boiling water, plunge it into ice water, drain it on paper towels and freeze in plastic containers or plastic bags.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月18日
How often a vegetable garden needs water depends on the weather, soil type, growth stage of the vegetables and other factors. Underwatering causes stringy, strongly flavored vegetables, but overwatering increases the risk of plant diseases and reduces vegetables' flavor. When in very wet soil, plants' roots drown, causing the plants to die. Signs of underwatering and overwatering in plants include pale, wilted leaves and poor growth. Regularly checking the soil moisture level gives the best indication of how often to water a vegetable garden.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
Checking the Soil
Different kinds of soil hold water better than other kinds. Clay soils hold onto moisture, but sandy soils drain freely. A vegetable garden in any kind of soil needs water when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches, which is usually about once every four days during hot weather. A garden with clay soil may need water less frequently, and a garden in sandy soil may need water more often.
You can test soil's moisture level by pushing your fingers into the soil. Dry soil feels dry to the touch. Another test method is to insert a screwdriver or stick into the soil. Moist soil clings to a screwdriver or stick and looks darker than dry soil. Houseplant soil moisture meters are also useful for measuring soil moisture but are sometimes inaccurate.
If the soil is moist just below the soil surface, then usually it also is moist at vegetable plants' root zones, 6 to 8 inches deep. If you want to check deep soil's moisture level, then dig a hole 8 inches deep, and feel the soil at the hole's bottom.
Knowing Plants' Water Needs
Besides vegetable plants' growth stages, the kinds of vegetables in the garden also affect how often the garden needs water. For example, the annual vegetables corn (Zea mays) and bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) need more water when silking and flowering than during their other growth stages. Low soil moisture from those stages until harvest reduces crop yields in corn, beans and other summer vegetables.
Apply water to the garden when its soil surface is dry after sowing vegetables and until the seedlings are 4 to 5 inches tall. The soil for growing young vegetable plants should stay consistently moist to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. During hot dry weather, the garden may need watering every day.
Watering the Garden
Equipment for watering a vegetable garden includes garden hoses, watering cans, drip-irrigation systems, soaker hoses and sprinklers. Sprinklers are usually a poor choice because some of their water evaporates, and their water falls over the whole garden bed, which encourages leaf diseases and weeds. Applying water at the plant bases is the best method for watering a vegetable garden.
Connect a fine-spray rose device to a watering can or a soft-spray attachment to a garden hose for watering vegetable seeds and seedlings as well as other delicate plants. Apply water to the soil until it begins to puddle on the soil surface.
Drip-irrigation systems and soaker hoses supply water at plant bases through emitters or perforated hoses, which are connected to a water supply. These devices take time to install but reduce the time spent watering over the long term.
Saving Water
Mulches and weed control help save water in a vegetable garden. Water-permeable landscape fabric, paper and organic mulches such as straw, compost, wood shavings, rice hulls and bark placed on the soil surface reduce water evaporation from the surface. Weight landscape fabric and paper with stones to prevent wind from lifting them. Spread a layer of an organic mulch 3 or 4 inches thick around vegetable plants. Don't allow mulches to touch vegetable stems, or else the stems may rot.
Weeds compete with vegetable plants for water. Remove weeds growing near your vegetables by pulling them upward out of the soil, and shallowly hoe the rest of the vegetable garden once per week.
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求助
Khim_ali
2018年07月16日
Im new to propagating succulents and its day 5 but the plant didnt go well. I wait till a pedal falls off or I take the bottom ones and twist it to get them off. I tried drying it in my house for 2-3 days on top of soil with some sunlight by the window but the plant began to rot and get all soft/mushy so I tried doing it outside drying them for 2-3 days then misting them with water but my plant has turned black can someone gove me tips on propagating ive been trying but its not going well. Also when propagating is it norml for the plant to get soft and mushy?
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Khim_ali：@Liz Lynch okay I’ll give t a few more days , thank you!!
Liz Lynch：Give it a few more days.... but when you say soft - how soft? Softness usually means to much water 😊
Liz Lynch：I reckon this still may have potential to go
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
Nitrogen is viewed to be the most important of all the nutrients in fertilizers. It is also the most difficult nutrient to measure in soil. The microbes in the soil control the day to day supply of nitrogen. In long spells of cold, dry or wet weather, the microbes are slowed down, consequently affecting nitrogen release in the soil. Too much nitrogen is not good since it can cause fertilizer burn. It can even retard the growth of crops or lead to excessive vegetative growth. Different vegetables have different requirements for nitrogen.
Distinguishing Between Fertilizers
One of the easiest ways to figure out nutrient content in fertilizer is to remember that fertilizers are categorized by the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or the N-P-K ratio. The highest nitrogen fertilizer, ammonium nitrate, contains the ratio of 33-0-0 or 34-0-0, but this is only to be used in special soil and growth conditions. Similarly, the balanced fertilizer, as the name implies, contains a balance of all three nutrients in a ratio of 6-6-6, 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
High Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that require high nitrogen levels include beets, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Asian greens, potato, leek, spinach and Swiss chard. High nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-5-5.
Medium Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that have a medium or balanced nitrogen requirement include chicory, asparagus, eggplant, lettuce, garlic, onion, squash, pepper, tomato and sweet corn. A balanced nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-16-16.
Low Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that require a low level of nitrogen include cucumber, carrots, fava beans, peas, radish, parsnip, turnip and rutabaga. A low nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 5-10-10.
Nitrogen for Fruit Bearing Vegetables
The fruit-bearing vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber, pepper, melon and tomato need a good dose of nitrogen in order to start off a healthy plant. But later as the fruit starts to form they need a fertilizer that has high concentrations of potash.
Tips for Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden
For optimal production, fertilizers need to be added every year to the vegetable garden. The best way to determine the levels of phosphorus, nitrogen and potash in the soil is through a soil test. Soil tests determine exactly how much nutrient needs to be added to the soil in view of the vegetables that are being grown. The easiest way to fertilize is to use a good quality commercial fertilizer made specifically for vegetable gardening. Generally, the leafy vegetables and corn need greater quantities of nitrogen, the pod and fruit crops require more phosphorus, and the root vegetables need an extra kick of potash. Unless the soil is markedly deficient in the important nutrients it is often not important to use special fertilizers for the different vegetables in smaller gardens. However, in large commercial vegetable crops, the soil analysis is targeted to match specific crops.
Distinguishing Between Fertilizers
One of the easiest ways to figure out nutrient content in fertilizer is to remember that fertilizers are categorized by the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or the N-P-K ratio. The highest nitrogen fertilizer, ammonium nitrate, contains the ratio of 33-0-0 or 34-0-0, but this is only to be used in special soil and growth conditions. Similarly, the balanced fertilizer, as the name implies, contains a balance of all three nutrients in a ratio of 6-6-6, 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
High Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that require high nitrogen levels include beets, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Asian greens, potato, leek, spinach and Swiss chard. High nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-5-5.
Medium Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that have a medium or balanced nitrogen requirement include chicory, asparagus, eggplant, lettuce, garlic, onion, squash, pepper, tomato and sweet corn. A balanced nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 16-16-16.
Low Nitrogen Requirement
Vegetables that require a low level of nitrogen include cucumber, carrots, fava beans, peas, radish, parsnip, turnip and rutabaga. A low nitrogen ratio in fertilizers is 5-10-10.
Nitrogen for Fruit Bearing Vegetables
The fruit-bearing vegetables such as eggplant, cucumber, pepper, melon and tomato need a good dose of nitrogen in order to start off a healthy plant. But later as the fruit starts to form they need a fertilizer that has high concentrations of potash.
Tips for Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden
For optimal production, fertilizers need to be added every year to the vegetable garden. The best way to determine the levels of phosphorus, nitrogen and potash in the soil is through a soil test. Soil tests determine exactly how much nutrient needs to be added to the soil in view of the vegetables that are being grown. The easiest way to fertilize is to use a good quality commercial fertilizer made specifically for vegetable gardening. Generally, the leafy vegetables and corn need greater quantities of nitrogen, the pod and fruit crops require more phosphorus, and the root vegetables need an extra kick of potash. Unless the soil is markedly deficient in the important nutrients it is often not important to use special fertilizers for the different vegetables in smaller gardens. However, in large commercial vegetable crops, the soil analysis is targeted to match specific crops.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
Before you start a garden in Arizona, remember that your soil is mostly sand. Because sand has almost no nutrients, it will have to be amended with decaying organic matter. Compost is the answer to most of your soil problems in Arizona. Digging in or adding 2 inches of compost on top of the soil will result in more water in the soil and less watering, another highly important element to consider in desert gardening. Grow veggies in raised beds or containers for greater control over soil quality and wind protection.
Hot and Sweet Peppers
Peppers prefer the cooler seasons in Arizona, spring and fall. Plant them in early March from nursery stock (if you can find it) or sprout seeds indoors in the winter to transplant in early March. Or, continue to grow them in containers. Feed peppers plenty of food—water-soluble fertilizer or organic compost—because they are hungry plants.
Eggplant
Eggplant, according to Phoenix Tropicals, grows very well in Arizona, but it is a heavy feeder and needs a lot of water. Grow eggplant in a raised bed to take advantage of the shade that foliage provides for the soil. This will help your soil conserve water. Plant eggplant in March, so its growing season is long enough to avoid winter's killing frosts.
Melons
Melons do well in the Arizona heat but they are also a favorite of whiteflies, which descend en masse in early June. If they survive the onslaught, they will be delicious. Plant them as early as possible in spring to get as much growth as possible before the flies descend.
Herbs
Rosemary, oregano and dill are extremely easy to grow in desert conditions. Rosemary requires very little water and loves the sun. Grow it in pots or as a bushy groundcover as part of the landscape. Phoenix Tropicals categorizes dill as a weed in Arizona: It will grow everywhere, even if you aren't all that interested in it. Oregano needs some light shade and weekly watering to thrive. Of course, many herbs will grow very well indoors in pots, on the windowsill or in a sunny room.
Tomatoes
While tomatoes are everyone's favorite, they are also the favorite of nearly every garden pest that exists in Arizona. The irony is that Arizona is the tomato-production capital of the United States, but almost all of those tomatoes are grown hydroponically; lack of soil eliminates pests. If you can grow them in containers, the risk of insect infestation and disease is greatly reduced. Remember, any plant grown for its fruit requires at least five hours of sun each day. The Maricopa County Extension Office recommends the addition of reflective material around container plants: aluminum foil, white-painted surfaces or marble chips.
Hot and Sweet Peppers
Peppers prefer the cooler seasons in Arizona, spring and fall. Plant them in early March from nursery stock (if you can find it) or sprout seeds indoors in the winter to transplant in early March. Or, continue to grow them in containers. Feed peppers plenty of food—water-soluble fertilizer or organic compost—because they are hungry plants.
Eggplant
Eggplant, according to Phoenix Tropicals, grows very well in Arizona, but it is a heavy feeder and needs a lot of water. Grow eggplant in a raised bed to take advantage of the shade that foliage provides for the soil. This will help your soil conserve water. Plant eggplant in March, so its growing season is long enough to avoid winter's killing frosts.
Melons
Melons do well in the Arizona heat but they are also a favorite of whiteflies, which descend en masse in early June. If they survive the onslaught, they will be delicious. Plant them as early as possible in spring to get as much growth as possible before the flies descend.
Herbs
Rosemary, oregano and dill are extremely easy to grow in desert conditions. Rosemary requires very little water and loves the sun. Grow it in pots or as a bushy groundcover as part of the landscape. Phoenix Tropicals categorizes dill as a weed in Arizona: It will grow everywhere, even if you aren't all that interested in it. Oregano needs some light shade and weekly watering to thrive. Of course, many herbs will grow very well indoors in pots, on the windowsill or in a sunny room.
Tomatoes
While tomatoes are everyone's favorite, they are also the favorite of nearly every garden pest that exists in Arizona. The irony is that Arizona is the tomato-production capital of the United States, but almost all of those tomatoes are grown hydroponically; lack of soil eliminates pests. If you can grow them in containers, the risk of insect infestation and disease is greatly reduced. Remember, any plant grown for its fruit requires at least five hours of sun each day. The Maricopa County Extension Office recommends the addition of reflective material around container plants: aluminum foil, white-painted surfaces or marble chips.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Pumpkins are a popular vegetable for a reason: they are delicious, fun and easy to grow. It doesn't take all that much to cultivate pumpkins in your yard: soil, space, water and sunlight. But if you want to grow big pumpkins, the kind you might see winning the blue ribbon at a county fair, it takes a little extra effort, and some good old fashioned tricks. Feeding sugar to your pumpkins, for instance, can make them grow much bigger than just sun and water alone will.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Purple hull peas (Vigna unguiculata ssp. unguiculata), a type of southern pea, produce pale green beans with a pink eye in dull purple pods. They take about 90 days to reach maturity from planting. The seeds require warm soil and frost-free weather to sprout successfully, and they don't transplant well, so sow them directly in the garden in late spring or early summer after frost danger passes.
Garden Selection
Purple hull peas can tolerate light afternoon shade, especially in hot climates, but they grow best when they receive full, all-day sunlight. They thrive in any well-drained loam garden soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5. Heavy clay or soil that doesn't drain quickly after rain or watering can slow germination or cause the seeds or seedlings to rot. Purple hull peas grow on vines, so select a site with room for stakes or supports and where the peas won't block sunlight to lower-growing plants.
Soil Preparation
Adding compost and a light fertilization about 10 days before planting gives the purple hull peas the nutrients they need for initial growth. Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of compost and sprinkle 1 pound of 5-10-10 fertilizer along every 50-foot row. Turn the compost into the top 6 inches of soil. Right before planting, lightly moisten the seed and place it in a bag with Rhizobium bacteria powder, shaking the bag gently to coat the seeds. The bacteria treatment allows the purple hull peas to fix their own nitrogen in the soil after planting, minimizing the need for later fertilization.
Planting Basics
The seeds sprout and begin putting on healthy growth when soil temperatures are 60 degrees Fahrenheit and air temperatures are above 70 F. Plant the seeds about 1 ½ inches deep, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Plant along the base of a bean trellis for support, or erect bean tepees and sow one seed at the base of each tepee pole. You can also install a 4-foot stake for each individual plant if you are only growing a few. If you plant multiple rows, set them about 2 feet apart so you have room to move between the plants for weeding, maintenance and harvest.
Early Care
Sprouting usually occurs within a week if you keep the soil moist. Water as needed so the top 6 inches of soil remains moist but not wet until germination. After sprouting, continue to water once or twice weekly, giving the plants about 1 inch of water a week or enough so the soil doesn't dry completely. Purple hull peas don't require watering if there is sufficient rain to keep the soil moist. Overhead watering can lead to flower loss or fungal problems as the plants mature, so water near the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry. Pull weeds as soon as they sprout so they don't compete with the peas for water or nutrients.
Garden Selection
Purple hull peas can tolerate light afternoon shade, especially in hot climates, but they grow best when they receive full, all-day sunlight. They thrive in any well-drained loam garden soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5. Heavy clay or soil that doesn't drain quickly after rain or watering can slow germination or cause the seeds or seedlings to rot. Purple hull peas grow on vines, so select a site with room for stakes or supports and where the peas won't block sunlight to lower-growing plants.
Soil Preparation
Adding compost and a light fertilization about 10 days before planting gives the purple hull peas the nutrients they need for initial growth. Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of compost and sprinkle 1 pound of 5-10-10 fertilizer along every 50-foot row. Turn the compost into the top 6 inches of soil. Right before planting, lightly moisten the seed and place it in a bag with Rhizobium bacteria powder, shaking the bag gently to coat the seeds. The bacteria treatment allows the purple hull peas to fix their own nitrogen in the soil after planting, minimizing the need for later fertilization.
Planting Basics
The seeds sprout and begin putting on healthy growth when soil temperatures are 60 degrees Fahrenheit and air temperatures are above 70 F. Plant the seeds about 1 ½ inches deep, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Plant along the base of a bean trellis for support, or erect bean tepees and sow one seed at the base of each tepee pole. You can also install a 4-foot stake for each individual plant if you are only growing a few. If you plant multiple rows, set them about 2 feet apart so you have room to move between the plants for weeding, maintenance and harvest.
Early Care
Sprouting usually occurs within a week if you keep the soil moist. Water as needed so the top 6 inches of soil remains moist but not wet until germination. After sprouting, continue to water once or twice weekly, giving the plants about 1 inch of water a week or enough so the soil doesn't dry completely. Purple hull peas don't require watering if there is sufficient rain to keep the soil moist. Overhead watering can lead to flower loss or fungal problems as the plants mature, so water near the base of the plants to keep the foliage dry. Pull weeds as soon as they sprout so they don't compete with the peas for water or nutrients.
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成长记
CiaraCrearions
2018年07月02日
I put this guy out in tbe sun after my mom almost watered it to death but now its brown. Not sure why! And the other little guy fell put of the soil so ive moved him out.
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成长记
CiaraCrearions
2018年07月02日
The propigarinf worked and now these gigs are spreading there roots in soil!
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
Lima beans (Phaseolus lunatus) look like snap beans when they grow, and they develop as either vining or bush-like plants. Not tolerant of frost, lima bean seeds are sown in moist, fertile soil that is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
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