文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月04日
Prized for its taste and texture, the morel mushroom grows wild in many areas of the United States. This quality fungus emerges naturally in the springtime along sections of decomposing trees and rich, loamy patches of soil. Until recently, this type of mushroom defied attempts to cultivate it in a garden environment, making it necessary to search through the woods to find wild specimens. Propagating morel mushrooms with purchased spawn provides an interesting activity that provides an edible produce. The process of growing this type of mushroom requires careful preparation and patience.
Step 1
Prepare the site for your morel mushroom garden. Select a shady spot that measures approximately four feet by four feet. Choose a location that does not receive animal or foot traffic. Remove all existing vegetation and debris. Turn the top three to four inches of soil to loosen the surface. Spread equal amounts of sand, gypsum and peat moss over the surface of your soil, creating a layer about an inch thick. Work these into your loosened topsoil to create a rich, sandy medium.
Step 2
Scatter a fine layer of wood ashes over the prepared soil. Morel mushrooms grow naturally in forested areas after fires, thriving on nutrients in the ashes.
Step 3
Plant your morel spawn into your prepared soil by mixing and spreading the substance according to the package instructions. Sprinkle small pieces of hardwood chips and bark over your planted mushroom bed. In their native habitat, morel mushrooms grow among elms, ashes and apple trees, so try to use those types of hardwood. Keep the area slightly moist.
Step 4
Mark and protect your mushroom garden by placing gardening stakes along the outside edges of your site. Pound the stakes about halfway into the soil and tie strings or ribbons around the stakes to avoid accidentally walking over the area. Your planted spawn may take a few years to begin producing morel mushrooms.
Step 1
Prepare the site for your morel mushroom garden. Select a shady spot that measures approximately four feet by four feet. Choose a location that does not receive animal or foot traffic. Remove all existing vegetation and debris. Turn the top three to four inches of soil to loosen the surface. Spread equal amounts of sand, gypsum and peat moss over the surface of your soil, creating a layer about an inch thick. Work these into your loosened topsoil to create a rich, sandy medium.
Step 2
Scatter a fine layer of wood ashes over the prepared soil. Morel mushrooms grow naturally in forested areas after fires, thriving on nutrients in the ashes.
Step 3
Plant your morel spawn into your prepared soil by mixing and spreading the substance according to the package instructions. Sprinkle small pieces of hardwood chips and bark over your planted mushroom bed. In their native habitat, morel mushrooms grow among elms, ashes and apple trees, so try to use those types of hardwood. Keep the area slightly moist.
Step 4
Mark and protect your mushroom garden by placing gardening stakes along the outside edges of your site. Pound the stakes about halfway into the soil and tie strings or ribbons around the stakes to avoid accidentally walking over the area. Your planted spawn may take a few years to begin producing morel mushrooms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月02日
Mushroom growing is a unique type of gardening. Mushrooms are really the fruit of a fungus that is grown from spores, or "mycelium," a mat of developing spores. Mycelium is also called mushroom "spawn." Ordinary soil does not provide the right kind of nutrients for growing mushrooms. Instead, other materials such as straw, sawdust, wood chips and compost are used as growing medium, called a "substrate." Different types of mushrooms require different kinds of substrate.
Wood Chips
According to the University of California at Davis, wood chips can be used as the soil medium for those mushrooms that grow well on wood substrates. Mushrooms that grow in woody materials include oyster, shiitake, reishi, maitake and lion's mane mushrooms. You can purchase pre-sterilized wood chips ready for culturing the mushroom spawn.
Compost
Compost is a substrate that requires the most time to prepare, but it makes an effective soil-substitute for growing mushrooms. Compost is a mixture of yard waste, like leaves, grass clippings, weeds and branches, with kitchen waste like coffee grounds, vegetable scraps, eggshells and shells. This matter is kept moist and warm until it deteriorates into a rich, loamy soil-like material. You can make your own compost in a small enclosure in your yard in two to four months, according to the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection. White button mushrooms prefer compost as substrate.
Straw
Straw can also be use as the substrate soil-substitute for growing mushrooms. According to Shroomery, cut wheat or barley straw into 2 to 4 inch pieces and pasteurized by putting it into 150-degree F water for 1 hour, then removed and allowed to drain. It is then cooled to room temperature. It is then placed in a bag with the mushroom mycelium, punctured several times and allowed to grow. Once the mycelium spreads on the surface, the bag is opened and the mushrooms are exposed to the air.
Horse Manure
Horse manure grows mushrooms easily if composted well and mixed with straw. You can then place the mushroom spawn on the surface of the manure compost and rub it into the surface. A bit of lime will help the mushrooms grow. Do not water the manure compost for four weeks, as there is sufficient moisture in the compost, according to CountryFarm Lifestyle. You can purchase sterilized and composted horse manure for your mushroom substrate.
Potting Soil
You can also use ordinary potting soil to grow mushrooms, but you must add additional organic material for the mushroom spawn to eat. Coffee beans, cut in half and soaked in water for five minutes, then placed on the soil gives the potting soil more structure and nutrients for growing mushrooms. Adding vermiculite will give the soil additional body to hold the spawn.
Wood Chips
According to the University of California at Davis, wood chips can be used as the soil medium for those mushrooms that grow well on wood substrates. Mushrooms that grow in woody materials include oyster, shiitake, reishi, maitake and lion's mane mushrooms. You can purchase pre-sterilized wood chips ready for culturing the mushroom spawn.
Compost
Compost is a substrate that requires the most time to prepare, but it makes an effective soil-substitute for growing mushrooms. Compost is a mixture of yard waste, like leaves, grass clippings, weeds and branches, with kitchen waste like coffee grounds, vegetable scraps, eggshells and shells. This matter is kept moist and warm until it deteriorates into a rich, loamy soil-like material. You can make your own compost in a small enclosure in your yard in two to four months, according to the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection. White button mushrooms prefer compost as substrate.
Straw
Straw can also be use as the substrate soil-substitute for growing mushrooms. According to Shroomery, cut wheat or barley straw into 2 to 4 inch pieces and pasteurized by putting it into 150-degree F water for 1 hour, then removed and allowed to drain. It is then cooled to room temperature. It is then placed in a bag with the mushroom mycelium, punctured several times and allowed to grow. Once the mycelium spreads on the surface, the bag is opened and the mushrooms are exposed to the air.
Horse Manure
Horse manure grows mushrooms easily if composted well and mixed with straw. You can then place the mushroom spawn on the surface of the manure compost and rub it into the surface. A bit of lime will help the mushrooms grow. Do not water the manure compost for four weeks, as there is sufficient moisture in the compost, according to CountryFarm Lifestyle. You can purchase sterilized and composted horse manure for your mushroom substrate.
Potting Soil
You can also use ordinary potting soil to grow mushrooms, but you must add additional organic material for the mushroom spawn to eat. Coffee beans, cut in half and soaked in water for five minutes, then placed on the soil gives the potting soil more structure and nutrients for growing mushrooms. Adding vermiculite will give the soil additional body to hold the spawn.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月30日
Pine trees and their fallen needles create an acidic soil environment hostile to many plants and fungi. There are, however, several types of mushrooms that not only tolerate the soil beneath pine trees but thrive in such a location. Mushrooms associated with pine trees include edibles, such as the prized king bolete and matsutake mushrooms, as well as poisonous mushrooms, like the death cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
King Bolete
The king bolete, or Boletus edulis, is a European bolete mushroom associated with spruce and pine trees. This very large mushroom has a swollen, meaty stem and a smooth, brown cap with a tacky surface. According to Michael Kuo, author of "Morels" and "100 Edible Mushrooms," scientists debate whether North American examples of the king bolete are actually the same as the species found in Europe. However, regardless of classification, this pine-loving mushroom is prized for its nutty, slightly bitter flavor and works well in soups.
American Matsutake
A relative of the prized Japanese matsutake mushroom, American matsutake, or Tricholoma magnivelare, is a white to brownish mushroom with a partial veil on the stem. It has a distinctive spicy odor and a complex flavor. This mushroom is often found under jack pine trees in the American northeast.
Hedgehog Mushroom
Also called by its scientific name, Hydnum repandum, the hedgehog mushroom is an orange to tan fungus that grows near conifers. Its name comes from the distinctive spines on the underside of its cap. Except for these spines, it closely resembles the also-edible chanterelle mushroom. Hedgehog mushrooms taste similar to chantarelles, but are usually milder. Old specimens may have a bitter flavor.
Death Cap
This large, white toadstool is one of the most dangerous mushrooms in North America, not only for its poisonous nature but for its resemblance to edible field mushrooms. This fungus is mostly associated with European species of oak, but does grow under several types of pine tree, as well. Death cap mushrooms have a distinctive sack-like volva around their bases and a white ring under the cap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月29日
Morels are highly prized among mushroom hunters. Their emergence is influenced by soil temperatures. Taking the soil temperature in an area where morels are known to grow is an effective way to gauge when they may appear.
Morel Growth and Emergence
When soil temperatures are ideal, the body of the morel begins to fruit as a tiny knot on an underground network of mycelium, a complex of long, thread-like fungi cells. The knot rapidly enlarges until it becomes a tiny club that pushes its way to the soil surface.
Ideal Temperatures
Morels grown under controlled conditions for commercial purposes fruit when the soil reaches a consistent temperature of approximately 53 degrees F. Wild morels also appear under these conditions.
Taking Soil Temperature
Use a probe-type digital thermometer to take soil temperatures. Take the temperature daily and be consistent. Take it in the same spot, at the same time and at the same depth (preferably 2 to 6 inches).
Effects of Temperature Fluctuations
Many factors can influence the soil temperature, including the amount of leaf litter or debris on the ground, the amount of sunlight, rain and air temperature. When weather conditions cause the soil temperature to increase rapidly, morels will appear suddenly. If soil temperature warms slowly, morels take longer to develop.
Morel Growth and Emergence
When soil temperatures are ideal, the body of the morel begins to fruit as a tiny knot on an underground network of mycelium, a complex of long, thread-like fungi cells. The knot rapidly enlarges until it becomes a tiny club that pushes its way to the soil surface.
Ideal Temperatures
Morels grown under controlled conditions for commercial purposes fruit when the soil reaches a consistent temperature of approximately 53 degrees F. Wild morels also appear under these conditions.
Taking Soil Temperature
Use a probe-type digital thermometer to take soil temperatures. Take the temperature daily and be consistent. Take it in the same spot, at the same time and at the same depth (preferably 2 to 6 inches).
Effects of Temperature Fluctuations
Many factors can influence the soil temperature, including the amount of leaf litter or debris on the ground, the amount of sunlight, rain and air temperature. When weather conditions cause the soil temperature to increase rapidly, morels will appear suddenly. If soil temperature warms slowly, morels take longer to develop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月28日
Picky morel mushrooms require exact soil, temperature and moisture levels in order to produce the edible fruiting bodies that mushroom hunters consider delicacies. For this reason, it is often difficult to propagate morel mushrooms to encourage larger yields in hunting grounds and to propagate additional morel mushroom patches nearer a hunter's home. Though successful yields depend upon specific, strict and somewhat mysterious conditions, spreading morel mushroom spores to encourage those higher yields and development of new patches is relatively easy.
Step 1
Collect wild morel mushrooms from their natural locations to use spores from those mushrooms to propagate additional mushrooms. Search the woods near your home, or at state and national parks that allow mushroom hunting. Morel hot spots include the vicinities of ash trees, fallen and rotting logs, and in areas recently burned in forest fires.
Step 2
Cut the fruiting bodies -- the stems and caps -- of the morel mushroom at the ground, leaving the underground root system of the fungi intact. Interconnected root systems of the morel mushrooms may spread over large areas of the forest and will reproduce more efficiently if you leave them intact when harvesting the fruiting bodies.
Step 3
Place harvested morel mushrooms in mesh grocery bags or make your own breathable bags from the red mesh sacks used to contain potatoes and onions on grocery store shelves. The open design of the bags prevents morels from sweating as they would in plastic grocery bags and allows morel spores to fall to the forest floor as you continue morel hunting. This will encourage higher yields of morels in your hunting site.
Step 4
Spread morel mushrooms on old towels, sheets or newspapers to dry. Space mushrooms so they do not touch. As the mushrooms dry, spores will fall onto the towels, sheets or newspapers, creating yellow and brown spots.
Step 5
Remove and bag the dried mushrooms for storage. Take the towels, sheets or old newspapers outdoors and shake the morel spores off, over an area you intend to use as a new morel patch. Newspapers printed with soy-based ink that does not contain chemical additives may be spread on the ground and covered with a layer of forest soil and rotting leaves. This layer of rotting leaves is full of the nutrients and minerals necessary to encourage growth and mimic the morel's natural habitat.
Step 1
Collect wild morel mushrooms from their natural locations to use spores from those mushrooms to propagate additional mushrooms. Search the woods near your home, or at state and national parks that allow mushroom hunting. Morel hot spots include the vicinities of ash trees, fallen and rotting logs, and in areas recently burned in forest fires.
Step 2
Cut the fruiting bodies -- the stems and caps -- of the morel mushroom at the ground, leaving the underground root system of the fungi intact. Interconnected root systems of the morel mushrooms may spread over large areas of the forest and will reproduce more efficiently if you leave them intact when harvesting the fruiting bodies.
Step 3
Place harvested morel mushrooms in mesh grocery bags or make your own breathable bags from the red mesh sacks used to contain potatoes and onions on grocery store shelves. The open design of the bags prevents morels from sweating as they would in plastic grocery bags and allows morel spores to fall to the forest floor as you continue morel hunting. This will encourage higher yields of morels in your hunting site.
Step 4
Spread morel mushrooms on old towels, sheets or newspapers to dry. Space mushrooms so they do not touch. As the mushrooms dry, spores will fall onto the towels, sheets or newspapers, creating yellow and brown spots.
Step 5
Remove and bag the dried mushrooms for storage. Take the towels, sheets or old newspapers outdoors and shake the morel spores off, over an area you intend to use as a new morel patch. Newspapers printed with soy-based ink that does not contain chemical additives may be spread on the ground and covered with a layer of forest soil and rotting leaves. This layer of rotting leaves is full of the nutrients and minerals necessary to encourage growth and mimic the morel's natural habitat.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月28日
Mushrooms are the product or fruit of fungus-infested soil and can produce rather quickly taking over a lawn. The fungus feeds off decaying substances in the soil, such as old rotting mulch, dying tree stumps and animal feces. Removal of lawn mushrooms can be difficult, once the fungus has infested a large portion of the yard. Chemical products are one way to rid the yard of the mushrooms and fungus, but are more likely to work once the matter the fungus is feeding on is removed.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
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Danial Ahmed
2017年11月27日
Does anyone recognize this plant?
Uniquely Its roots originate from the top and make their way down to the soil.
Uniquely Its roots originate from the top and make their way down to the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月27日
Picky morel mushrooms require exact soil, temperature and moisture levels in order to produce the edible fruiting bodies that mushroom hunters consider delicacies. For this reason, it is often difficult to propagate morel mushrooms to encourage larger yields in hunting grounds and to propagate additional morel mushroom patches nearer a hunter's home. Though successful yields depend upon specific, strict and somewhat mysterious conditions, spreading morel mushroom spores to encourage those higher yields and development of new patches is relatively easy.
Step 1
Collect wild morel mushrooms from their natural locations to use spores from those mushrooms to propagate additional mushrooms. Search the woods near your home, or at state and national parks that allow mushroom hunting. Morel hot spots include the vicinities of ash trees, fallen and rotting logs, and in areas recently burned in forest fires.
Step 2
Cut the fruiting bodies -- the stems and caps -- of the morel mushroom at the ground, leaving the underground root system of the fungi intact. Interconnected root systems of the morel mushrooms may spread over large areas of the forest and will reproduce more efficiently if you leave them intact when harvesting the fruiting bodies.
Step 3
Place harvested morel mushrooms in mesh grocery bags or make your own breathable bags from the red mesh sacks used to contain potatoes and onions on grocery store shelves. The open design of the bags prevents morels from sweating as they would in plastic grocery bags and allows morel spores to fall to the forest floor as you continue morel hunting. This will encourage higher yields of morels in your hunting site.
Step 4
Spread morel mushrooms on old towels, sheets or newspapers to dry. Space mushrooms so they do not touch. As the mushrooms dry, spores will fall onto the towels, sheets or newspapers, creating yellow and brown spots.
Step 5
Remove and bag the dried mushrooms for storage. Take the towels, sheets or old newspapers outdoors and shake the morel spores off, over an area you intend to use as a new morel patch. Newspapers printed with soy-based ink that does not contain chemical additives may be spread on the ground and covered with a layer of forest soil and rotting leaves. This layer of rotting leaves is full of the nutrients and minerals necessary to encourage growth and mimic the morel's natural habitat.
Step 1
Collect wild morel mushrooms from their natural locations to use spores from those mushrooms to propagate additional mushrooms. Search the woods near your home, or at state and national parks that allow mushroom hunting. Morel hot spots include the vicinities of ash trees, fallen and rotting logs, and in areas recently burned in forest fires.
Step 2
Cut the fruiting bodies -- the stems and caps -- of the morel mushroom at the ground, leaving the underground root system of the fungi intact. Interconnected root systems of the morel mushrooms may spread over large areas of the forest and will reproduce more efficiently if you leave them intact when harvesting the fruiting bodies.
Step 3
Place harvested morel mushrooms in mesh grocery bags or make your own breathable bags from the red mesh sacks used to contain potatoes and onions on grocery store shelves. The open design of the bags prevents morels from sweating as they would in plastic grocery bags and allows morel spores to fall to the forest floor as you continue morel hunting. This will encourage higher yields of morels in your hunting site.
Step 4
Spread morel mushrooms on old towels, sheets or newspapers to dry. Space mushrooms so they do not touch. As the mushrooms dry, spores will fall onto the towels, sheets or newspapers, creating yellow and brown spots.
Step 5
Remove and bag the dried mushrooms for storage. Take the towels, sheets or old newspapers outdoors and shake the morel spores off, over an area you intend to use as a new morel patch. Newspapers printed with soy-based ink that does not contain chemical additives may be spread on the ground and covered with a layer of forest soil and rotting leaves. This layer of rotting leaves is full of the nutrients and minerals necessary to encourage growth and mimic the morel's natural habitat.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月27日
Mushrooms are the product or fruit of fungus-infested soil and can produce rather quickly taking over a lawn. The fungus feeds off decaying substances in the soil, such as old rotting mulch, dying tree stumps and animal feces. Removal of lawn mushrooms can be difficult, once the fungus has infested a large portion of the yard. Chemical products are one way to rid the yard of the mushrooms and fungus, but are more likely to work once the matter the fungus is feeding on is removed.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers containing nitrogen not only stimulate lawn growth, but can also rid the lawn of mushrooms. Nitrogen rich soil provides the perfect base for a fast growing lawn, but also increases organic waste and matter decomposition times. Nitrogen also speeds up the growth and breakdown of the mushroom systems, lessening the lifespan of the fungus.
Fungicides
Fungicides, available in both powder and liquid form, are chemical compounds used in the removal of different types of fungi. Depending on the type of fungicide used, the chemical may either slow the growth of the fungus, keeping new growth from being reproduced or kill the fungus, causing both the fruit and root system to die. Fungicides must be used with care, especially when used in gardens or on lawns where pets and children walk or play.
Lime
Lime, used by gardeners to prevent pests from eating plants and raise the soils acidity levels in gardens and lawns, can also help slow the growth of mushrooms. Lime raises the PH level of the soil. While grass and some flowering plants thrive in a higher PH level soil, mushrooms prefer lower PH levels and will not grow well or produce fruit in acidic soils. While lime will not actually kill the mushrooms, it can work to slow and eliminate the fungus when used in conjunction with other lawn chemicals.
Considerations
While chemical products can slow the growth of fungi and even, at times, eliminate it from a lawn, fungus growth is a sign of a rich soil environment and fruit may reappear if soil conditions remain fertile. Removal of animal feces and other decaying matter, such as rotting tree stumps, can help eliminate the growth of fungi. Lawns mowed on a regular basis may also help slow the spread of growing fungi fruit. Homeowners should also not use fungus infested lawn clippings in compost, as the fungus can easily spread to any area where the compost is used.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
An invaluable growing method for both apartment-dwellers and homeowners not blessed with fertile soil, comes to the rescue even for larger annual edibles such as tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum).
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
Pot Size
How large a container you'll need for your tomato plant depends on what variety you're growing. Rather than considering the size of the tomatoes it will produce, check the seedling label to see whether the plant is indeterminate -- the big, sprawling, kind -- or the more compact determinate plant. The latter often works better for container gardening, but it is possible to "contain" larger tomato plants. In general, a pot that is 24 inches or more in diameter will hold an indeterminate tomato variety, and one that is 18 inches or larger will be big enough for determinate types.
Container Material
If you will be needing to move your tomatoes to keep them in the sun, or to position them for watering, avoid whisky barrels, as well as other heavy materials such as ceramic and terra cotta. Instead, look for plastic and fiberglass pots, which are lightweight -- or consider re-purposing a 5-gallon bucket. Whatever you choose, make sure it either comes with drainage holes, or has a surface that can be punctured with a drill, or a hammer and nail, to create holes.
Planting Medium
You may be able to find a pre-blended potting mix which is geared to growing tomatoes. Look for one that mentions tomatoes on its package, and which includes slow-release fertilizers and water-holding gels, as well as premium blend such as perlite, compost, peat moss, vermiculite and sand.
Alternatively, create your own mix by blending equal parts compost, potting soil, perlite and sphagnum peat moss. You might also choose to add about 1 cup dolomitic limestone for every 40 pounds of potting soil, along with 1/2 cup each of a prepared trace element mix, as well as powdered iron.
Make sure whatever blend you choose is thoroughly mixed before it goes in the container.
Potting Up
Step 1
Strip your tomato seedling of its lower leaves by pinching them off near the stem. This is the best way to encourage a strong stem and root system as the plant grows.
Step 2
Fill the pot about two-thirds full of your potting mix. If the drainage holes in your container are large ones, you can cut screening to size and place it at the bottom, before pouring in the soil. This will keep the soil from washing away after rainfall or watering.
Step 3
Place your tomato plant in the center of the container, and bury the stem up to its upper leaves. The bushy nature of tomato plants often means that only one will fit per container. The exception to this rule comes when you have a whiskey barrel or other large pot, as well as a few "tumbler" or other small varieties. Two or three of these can go in at a spacing of about 24 inches apart, or as noted on the nursery tag.
Step 4
Gently insert a tomato cage around the inside edges of the pot, or set a sturdy stake a few inches behind the plant. Setting up the support system at planting time means that you won't damage expanding roots later on.
Care
Tomatoes are , so place your pots where they will receive at least six hours of sun.
Container soil is notorious for drying out more quickly than that of traditional garden beds, especially when in clay pots. If the soil feels dry when you poke your finger into the first 1 or 2 inches, run a hose or watering can over the soil until water runs out the drainage holes. You may need to water daily during dry, hot weather.
About halfway through the growing season, begin supplementing the slow-release fertilizer in your potting mix with a water-soluble solution made for tomatoes. Typically, you'll mix about 1 ounce of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water, then water the tomato plant with it, leaves and all, but always check your tomato food's label. Nourish the tomato plant with this mix every two weeks, or as suggested on your fertilizer's package.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
You can plant more tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) in a garden when you support them with stakes or wire cages than if you let them sprawl on the ground. Because tomatoes require a soil temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit to plant from seed, most gardeners transplant nursery seedlings. How far apart you space plants also depends on the type of tomato, because some varieties need more space.
Spacing and Tomato Varieties
Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Spacing Staked Tomatoes
If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.
Spacing Caged Tomatoes
Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows.
Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens
Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.
Spacing and Tomato Varieties
Determinate tomato varieties eventually form a cluster of flowers at their tip and stop growing taller. They are easier to grow and control and their tomatoes ripen earlier. Indeterminate tomatoes, including nearly all older and heirloom varieties, grow larger vines with a larger, more flavorful crop of late-maturing tomatoes. Indeterminate cultivars need to be planted farther apart than determinate or dwarf cultivars. Most people treat tomatoes as annuals but they will technically grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Spacing Staked Tomatoes
If you train your tomatoes to grow on stakes you'll get larger tomatoes and they'll ripen earlier, but you'll get fewer of them and they're more likely to suffer from sun scald. Plant staked tomatoes 2 feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Dwarf tomatoes will only need 12 inches between plants. To give yourself enough room to harvest tomatoes, space vigorous indeterminate cultivars 4 feet apart and space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.
Spacing Caged Tomatoes
Plant caged tomatoes 2 1/2 to 3 feet apart in rows separated by 4 to 5 feet. Determinate tomatoes are best suited to cages. Prune the plants so that they will have from three to five stems. Especially vigorous indeterminate tomatoes will require larger cages, fewer stems in each cage and more space between plants and rows.
Spacing Tomatoes in Intensive Gardens
Plants in intensive gardens are spaced so their centers are an equal distance from one another. Tomatoes are especially suited to intensive gardening because they can be trained to grow vertically on stakes, cages or trellises. Space tomatoes 12 to 18 inches apart in an intensive garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Basil and tomatoes, both warm-weather plants that do well in containers, not only can be planted in the same pots, but should be; they are natural companions, having similar requirements for light, soil, temperature and water. Basil will also improve the growth and flavor of tomatoes, and may help to repel harmful pests. You can grow your basil and tomatoes in containers or hanging baskets. They will reward your efforts by being both attractive to look at and delicious to eat.
Planting and Care
Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal.
Basil Varieties
If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads.
Tomato Varieties
For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
Planting and Care
Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal.
Basil Varieties
If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads.
Tomato Varieties
For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
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