文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月14日
If you live in Tennessee, and would like to plant strawberries, it is important to consider your growing conditions. Strawberries require full sun and well-drained soil in order to thrive. A variety of diseases affect Tennessee strawberries--verticillium wilt, leaf spot, anthracnose, leaf scorch and leaf blight just to name a few. A few strawberry cultivars, such as Allstar and Earliglow, grow well in Tennessee and show resistance to such diseases.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
Step 1
Check the pH of your soil using a testing kit from a nursery. Strawberries thrive in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. You will need to amend your Tennessee soil if the pH is higher or lower.
Step 2
Loosen the soil with a pitchfork and remove any large sticks, stones or debris. Amend the soil if necessary using lime for a pH below 5.5 or peat moss for a pH that measures above 6.5. Follow the packaging instructions for allocation amounts and application methods.
Step 3
Plant the strawberry plants after the final winter thaw, which is usually around mid to late April in Tennessee. Dig holes that match the size of the nursery containers holding the strawberries, each hole spaced 2 feet from the next. Space rows 4 feet apart.
Step 4
Set one strawberry seedling in the center of each hole. Backfill the holes around the strawberry seedlings, patting the soil afterward to remove air pockets. Water the strawberries deeply using a soaker hose after planting.
Step 5
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season, to a depth of 1 inch. Tennessee sees a yearly rainfall total of 53 inches, which is plenty of rain to sustain crops. However, weekly supplemental waterings are necessary in lieu of rain.
Step 6
Fertilize the strawberry plants approximately one month after planting in the Tennessee soil. Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer according to manufacturer's directions. Tennessee strawberries appreciate a dose of fertilizer in the early spring and after harvesting.
Step 7
Control weeds around the strawberry plants with a layer of mulch. A 3-inch layer of bark chips will also improve drainage and protect the roots of the strawberry plants from the Tennessee temperature changes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) need soil that is acidic -- in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 -- and rich in organic matter, at least six hours of full-sun exposure per day and 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Preparing soil prior to planting and maintaining it on a regular basis will help keep blueberry production at optimal levels. Reducing soil's acidity is a process that can take several years, and keeping it acidic is necessary. Blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, depending on their variety.
Test the Soil
Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference.
Incorporate Elemental Sulphur
The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Retest the Soil Before Planting
Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart.
Maintain the Soil Carefully
Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.
Test the Soil
Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference.
Incorporate Elemental Sulphur
The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Retest the Soil Before Planting
Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart.
Maintain the Soil Carefully
Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月09日
Tomatoes require a deep root system to help pull water from the soil and keep full plants structurally sound. Helping the plant create a deep root system starts at planting. Deep root growth is increased in tomatoes when the seedlings are set deep in the soil, given plenty of water and given adequate space between plants. Tomatoes with deep root growth are more likely to also have an increase in fruit production over shallow-rooted plants.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
Deep-Growth Benefits
Roots that grow deep below the plant help support the above-ground stem and branches. Deep roots are also able to maximize water absorption. Plants with shallow roots have an increased risk of drying out, developing fruit that forms poorly and developing stems that can't support heavy fruit production.
Planting Depth
Planting tomato seedlings deep into the garden soil increases the depth of root growth. The ideal depth for root growth on an mature plant is at least 18 inches, even though the main portion of the root system is found in the first 12 inches. To obtain this depth of root growth, dig a planting hole that allows you to set the seedling so the first set of true leaves are just above the soil line. Additional roots will form off the portion of stem that is below the soil level for a sturdy and deep-set plant.
Soil Factors
Loose garden soil assists in root growth by providing less resistance. Work the soil with a tiller or spade to a depth of 18 inches before planting the seedlings. Soil with a high clay content should be amended with compost to increase the organic content. High clay soils pack easily and are not ideal for deep root growth.
Care Considerations
Deep root growth requires some work on your part. Water tomato plants regularly to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season. Healthy plants will not only grow tall, but also deep into the soil. Tomato plants that are in the fruit-producing stage require more water, up to 1 gallon per day. It is also ideal to set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart so they have adequate room for healthy and deep root growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
Central Florida has a warm, balmy climate with mild winters and sandy soils. While these may not seem ideal for growing blueberries (Vaccinium spp.), some varieties grow successfully in the area. Small adjustments in soil and care can lead to large blueberry yields in Florida's central region.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
Low-Chill Considerations
Central Florida only gets between 100 and 300 "chill hours" each winter -- the number of hours below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Blueberries need a certain number of chill hours to successfully bloom in spring. Two species of blueberries have low-chill cultivars that are adapted to mild winters: rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (Vaccinium darrowii). Most low-chill cultivars have been tested to grow near Ocala in central Florida or further north, but their southern limits have not been well tested.
Which Cultivars Work
"Emerald" highbush blueberry (Vaccinium darrowii "Emerald"), notes University of Florida, is the cultivar grown most often in the state. This early-ripening, high-yield bush produces a high quality berry from mid-April through mid-May and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. Rabbiteye cultivars generally need less maintenance, are more drought-tolerant and are more resistant to root root than highbush varieties. They must be cross-pollinated, which means you need at least two or three plants to produce fruit. "Brightwell" (Vaccinium virgatum "Brightwell") is a medium-sized blueberry that blooms between May and June. An excellent partner bush that flowers around the same time is "Austin" (Vaccinium virgatum "Austin") which has medium to large berries. Both grow in USDA zones 6 through 9.
Proper Location
Florida's soil is generally low in organic material and tends to be sandy, which means you need to amend the soil to keep blueberries happy. Incorporate an organic material, like peat moss or compost, into the top 8 inches of soil. An average 10- by 10-foot garden needs 8 cubic feet of compost spread over it and tilled in. Blueberries do best with a soil pH between 4.0 and 5.5. Pine mulch can help lower pH after planting. Place a 4-inch layer of pine needles or bark chip mulch in a 3- to 4-foot circle around each plant, keeping the mulch a few inches away from the blueberry stems.
Growing the Berries
Blueberry bushes can be quite large when mature. While highbush berry bushes tend to be smaller, a rabbiteye can grow up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Use a 7- by 7-foot area for planting rabbiteyes and a 4- by 4-foot area for highbush blueberries. If you wish to grow them as a clustered hedgerow, you may take this down to 3 feet for highbush and 5 feet for rabbiteye. Plant blueberries in full sun in soil that drains well through 18 inches deep. If the area has drainage problems, build a raised bed for the blueberries.
Pruning for Health
Pruning keeps your blueberry bushes healthy and productive, as berries grow best on young canes. When the plants are 4 years old or more, remove about one-fourth of the oldest canes every summer after harvest. This will also help to reduce the size of the canopy, keeping the berries easy to pick. To prevent the spread of diseases, soak your pruning shears in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. Rinse them with clean water and air dry them before and after each use.
Fertilizer Needs
Too much fertilizer can kill blueberries, so do several light applications each year. After planting, give plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 fertilizer with 2 percent magnesium, sometimes called a "blueberry specialty." Spread it in a 2-foot circle around the plant's center. In the second year, use 2 ounces per plant and spread into a 3-foot circle. From the third year onward, use 3 ounces of fertilizer in a 4-foot circle. Water the fertilizer in well after applying it. Repeat the process in April, June, August and October each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月08日
The hot climate and alkaline soils of many parts of Texas are far from ideal for blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) growing. Knowing which kinds of blueberry bushes to plant and how to compensate for unfavorable soil conditions, however, can allow you to cultivate a berry harvest even in the Lonestar State.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
Texas Soils and Blueberries
Blueberries only thrive in soils with high levels of acidity, and they will perform poorly unless the soil's pH level is between 4 and 5.5. Soil with pH in that range is rare in Texas, except for some parts of east Texas, so blueberries are unlikely to do well in most native Texas soil.
Some types of blueberries will perform adequately when soil is acidified with amendments. To reduce the pH of the soil by one point, add 3/4 pound of elemental sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil or 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of loam or clay soil about six months before planting. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei), one of the types that grows best in Texas, tend not to respond well to artificial acidification, however.
Home gardeners with neutral or alkaline native soils can successfully grow blueberries in containers filled with a commercially prepared soilless peat mixture or a mixture of peat moss and pine bark.
Varieties for Texas
Southern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), which are, in general, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 10, and rabbiteye blueberries, which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, are the types best suited to Texas, particularly in the warm climates of south and east Texas, the parts of the state that fall into USDA zones 8 to 10a.
Blueberries require a particular number of "chill hours," hours during which the temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, and rabbiteye blueberries require fewer chill hours than other types, making them better able to produce in south and east Texas, including the Austin, Houston and Dallas areas. Rabbiteye varieties that do especially well in the state include "Powderblue," "Tifblue," "Climax" and "Premier."
Some southern highbush varieties fare well in southeast Texas, including the Houston area. "Emerald" and "Jewel," which are hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10 and require relatively few chill hours, are good choices for this part of the state. North of Abilene, where the climate falls into USDA zones 6b and 7, choose southern highbush varieties such as "Misty" and "Sunshine Blue," which are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.
Site Considerations and Planting
Blueberries will tolerate some shade, but they prefer full sun and will produce best when they get plenty of light. Bushes have shallow root systems and are very sensitive to root damage caused by standing water, so they must be planted in soil that drains well.
If you're planting in the ground, plant late in the season, from fall until the end of winter. Space the bushes 4 to 6 feet apart, and if you plant more than one row of bushes, space the rows 12 to 15 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries need supplemental nitrogen, but nitrogen in the form of nitrate will damage the plants; instead, use a fertilizer that contains ammonium sulfate. Apply 1/2 to 1 ounce of a 21-0-0 fertilizer to each shrub in the first summer after planting, and increase the application to a full ounce in the second year; increase the application by an ounce a season until the amount reaches 8 ounces.
Bushes require a large amount of water, especially during the heat of summer, in periods of drought and during the period when berries are ripening. Throughout the year, 1-year-old plants should get 1/2 gallon of water per day, and 2-year-old plants should get a full gallon; add a gallon per year after that, to a maximum of 5 gallons per day. During the summer, monitor the soil to be sure that dirt around the bushes' shallow roots doesn't dry out, and cover the plants' root zones with a thick layer of mulch to help retain moisture, ensuring mulch doesn't touch the base of each plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Cultivated for thousands of years, with countless varieties, versatile grape vines (Vitis spp.) are grown for their fruit, leaves and often simply as ornamentation. Grapes require no fertilization if soil is at least moderately fertile. (The Fruit Gardeners Bible, pg 109, "If your soils are reasonable fertile you may not need to add fertilizer). If fertilizer is needed, apply low-concentration fertilizers with a balanced mineral content to raise grape vines that produce lush vegetation and juicy, sweet grapes. Grapes grow well, depending on variety, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7.
When to Fertilize
When fertilization is needed, fertilize prior to mid-summer. Late fertilization can lead to late-season growth when the plant should be heading into a dormant stage. Late growth may weaken the grape vine's ability to survive the winter and affect its growth the following year. Grapes planted in balanced, healthy soil may not require fertilization.
To determine the quality of your soil have it tested at a local garden center. Garden centers test the ratio of acidity and alkalinity in soils (their pH). Grapes grow best in soils with a pH balance of 5.5-7.0 ( The Fruit Gardeners Bible, pg 108).
Selecting a Fertilizer
Commercial fertilizers are a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and other less-critical supporting micro-nutrients and fillers. A commercial label will indicate the N-P-K ratio, such as 24-8-16. This particular N-P-K ratio indicates that the product is 24 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphorus, 16 percent potassium and 52 percent micro-nutrients and fillers, by volume.
Grapes prefer well-balanced formulas with relatively low percentages. Look for a label with an equal amount of each major mineral in percentages from 10 to 18 percent. For example, look for a label reading 10-10-10 or 15-15-15.
Applying the Fertilizer
Fertilizers come in liquid and dry forms. If your chosen fertilizer does not recommend exactly how much to apply for grapes, err on the side of caution and use half the recommended amount for other fruit-bearing plants. (The Fruit Gardener's Bible, pg 109).
Manufacturer Lilly Millers's Ultragreen is an appropriate dry fertilizer for grapes. Apply 1/3 a cup of Ultragreen for every 25 feet of grape vines. After scattering fertilizer, gently rake it into soil and water thoroughly (see label: http://www.lillymiller.com/labels/Ultragreen/UG_All-Purpose_10lb.pdf). Follow manufacturer's specific directions for other types of fertilizers.
Avoid getting liquid and dry fertilizers on vines and apply it approximately 18 inches away from the base of the plants.
Fertilizers containing iron may stain surfaces other than soil; avoid spilling them on concrete, driveways and wood.
When to Fertilize
When fertilization is needed, fertilize prior to mid-summer. Late fertilization can lead to late-season growth when the plant should be heading into a dormant stage. Late growth may weaken the grape vine's ability to survive the winter and affect its growth the following year. Grapes planted in balanced, healthy soil may not require fertilization.
To determine the quality of your soil have it tested at a local garden center. Garden centers test the ratio of acidity and alkalinity in soils (their pH). Grapes grow best in soils with a pH balance of 5.5-7.0 ( The Fruit Gardeners Bible, pg 108).
Selecting a Fertilizer
Commercial fertilizers are a combination of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and other less-critical supporting micro-nutrients and fillers. A commercial label will indicate the N-P-K ratio, such as 24-8-16. This particular N-P-K ratio indicates that the product is 24 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphorus, 16 percent potassium and 52 percent micro-nutrients and fillers, by volume.
Grapes prefer well-balanced formulas with relatively low percentages. Look for a label with an equal amount of each major mineral in percentages from 10 to 18 percent. For example, look for a label reading 10-10-10 or 15-15-15.
Applying the Fertilizer
Fertilizers come in liquid and dry forms. If your chosen fertilizer does not recommend exactly how much to apply for grapes, err on the side of caution and use half the recommended amount for other fruit-bearing plants. (The Fruit Gardener's Bible, pg 109).
Manufacturer Lilly Millers's Ultragreen is an appropriate dry fertilizer for grapes. Apply 1/3 a cup of Ultragreen for every 25 feet of grape vines. After scattering fertilizer, gently rake it into soil and water thoroughly (see label: http://www.lillymiller.com/labels/Ultragreen/UG_All-Purpose_10lb.pdf). Follow manufacturer's specific directions for other types of fertilizers.
Avoid getting liquid and dry fertilizers on vines and apply it approximately 18 inches away from the base of the plants.
Fertilizers containing iron may stain surfaces other than soil; avoid spilling them on concrete, driveways and wood.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are very demanding in terms of the soil conditions they require for good growth and fruit production, and those conditions don't often occur naturally in Ohio. With careful site selection and soil preparation, however, most Ohio gardeners can produce blueberry crops in their backyards.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Variety Selection
In general, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), the type best suited for Ohio growers, are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 7. Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6, with a few pockets of USDA zone 5b, most notably northeast of Columbus in central Ohio and in western Ohio west of Dayton. Most northern highbush varieties, therefore, can survive the winter throughout the state.
Cultivars that are well suited to Ohio include "Bluecrop" and "BlueJay," which are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7, "Patriot," which is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, and "Draper," which is hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7.
Site Conditions
Blueberries require plenty of exposure to sunlight, and they do best in locations that get at least six to eight hours of full sun per day.
Blueberry bushes have shallow root systems that are easily damaged when the soil around them is waterlogged, so well-drained soil in the planting bed is a necessity. In areas with heavy clay soils or even loam that doesn't drain quickly, planting in a 9-inch-high raised bed can help protect the plants' roots from standing water.
Soil Acidification
Blueberries require acidic soil, with a pH level between 4.5 and 5. Native soil acidity varies from locale to locale across the state, but acidic soils are more common in eastern Ohio than they are in the western part of the state.
Elemental sulfur mixed into the top 4 inches of soil can lower the soil's pH and make it more suitable for growing blueberries. The amount of sulfur you'll need to add will depend on the composition of the soil; adding 1.2 pounds of sulfur to 100 square feet of sandy soil, for example, will lower the pH from 6 to 4.5, but the same area of clay soil will require 3.7 pounds of sulfur for the same change in pH. The acidification process is slow, and sulfur should be added to the soil three months before planting.
Planting and Spacing
Plant bushes in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting bare-rooted plants, soak the entire root system in a bucket of water for approximately one hour. If planting container grown blueberries, gently pull the root system apart before planting. Add a gallon of sphagnum moss or peat to the planting hole and set the plant deep enough that the root crown is even with the soil level. Space bushes 3 to 4 feet apart within each row, and space rows 10 feet apart.
Fertilization and Watering
Blueberries produce best when given supplemental nitrogen; the nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium sulfate because nitrate-based sources are harmful to blueberries. Apply an ounce -- an 1/8 cup -- of 7-7-7 fertilizer per plant three or four weeks after planting, scratching the fertilizer gently into the soil in a circle 18 inches from the base of each plant. Apply another 1-ounce application in four to six weeks. Water well after each application.
Increase the amount of fertilizer to 2 ounces in the second year, applying once in mid spring and again at the same rate in early summer. In subsequent years, fertilize only once in spring at bud break, increasing the application rate by 2 ounces each year to a maximum of 12 ounces.
Blueberries also require consistent moisture, especially while the berries are developing and in late summer, when the following season's flower buds are developing. Irrigate plants so that they receive 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberries are popular fruit for home growing, especially in areas with moist or acidic soil. These bushes produce fruit that works well for fresh, cooked or frozen use. Like other plants, blueberry bushes go through a specific set of stages over the course of their lives. This life cycle can be influenced, but not changed, by environmental factors.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月02日
Perennial strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) are perennials that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10. They grow best and accept plant nutrients in soil that has a pH from 5.5 to 6.
Strawberry types are divided among June-bearing varieties that yield one large crop in June, day-neutral varieties that yield strawberries throughout the growing season, and everbearing varieties that yield a June crop and one in early autumn. All three types are fertilized the same way at the start of the growing season. Day-neutral and everbearing have added needs during the summer.
Soil Amendments
More than three-fourths of strawberry roots are found in the top six inches of soil. If you have your soil tested and find minerals that are below the optimal level, work soil amendments into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil six months to one year before you plant your strawberries.
If your soil needs potassium, apply 1 1/2 cups of potassium chloride, 0-0-60, or potassium sulfate, 0-0-43, per 100 square feet of strawberry growing soil. Potassium sulfate is acceptable for organic gardeners. Mixing 14 cups of greensand to each 100 square feet is also acceptable for organic potassium. Greensand, mined from mineral deposits originally on the ocean floor, contains 3 percent potassium along with iron, magnesium, silica and other trace minerals.
If your soil lacks phosphorus, combine 2 1/2 cups of superphosphate, 0-20-0, or 1 cup of triple superphosphate, 0-46-0 to 100 square feet of soil. For organic phosphorus add 6 cups of bonemeal, 1-11-0, to 100 square feet.
Strawberries commonly suffer from a lack of boron in the soil. If no boron was added in the previous three to four years, mix 3/4 ounce of borax into a gallon of water and shake thoroughly. Spread this over 100 square feet of strawberry planting area, taking care not to apply too much. If you regularly amend your soil with compost, it should contain sufficient organic boron.
Growing Season Fertilizer
Two weeks before you plant strawberries, mix 2 pounds of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Add fertilizer to newly planted strawberries in 6-inch bands on both sides of the rows. Use water-soluble, granular fertilizer and water well after application.
Six to eight weeks after planting, apply 1 pound of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil. If granules land on the strawberry leaves, knock them off with your hand or wash them off.
Adding nitrogen fertilizer in the spring before harvest may increase plant and berry diseases and cause excessive growth of stems and leaves. But if your plants are growing slowly and the leaves are light green, add 1/2 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet of soil.
After harvesting June-bearing strawberries, remove weeds, cut back leaves and thin plants. Then add 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil in 6-inch bands beside the plants. Give the plants at least 1 inch of water per week to avoid salt injury from the fertilizer and to give the strawberries strong, new growth. One inch of water is roughly 6 gallons per square yard.
If your strawberries are growing in soil that has not been allowed to dry out, fertilize them again in late august with 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of soil.
Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to 100 square feet of everbearing and day neutral strawberries in the middle of June and July and at the end of August.
Organic Fertilizers
Organic nutrients for strawberries are best added before they are planted, rather than later.
If you have time, plant oats in the area where you then plow them under a few weeks before you plant strawberries. The decaying oats will add nutrients to the soil.
Early spring is also when you should add 35 pounds of rabbit or poultry manure or 65 pounds of cow manure into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Strawberry types are divided among June-bearing varieties that yield one large crop in June, day-neutral varieties that yield strawberries throughout the growing season, and everbearing varieties that yield a June crop and one in early autumn. All three types are fertilized the same way at the start of the growing season. Day-neutral and everbearing have added needs during the summer.
Soil Amendments
More than three-fourths of strawberry roots are found in the top six inches of soil. If you have your soil tested and find minerals that are below the optimal level, work soil amendments into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil six months to one year before you plant your strawberries.
If your soil needs potassium, apply 1 1/2 cups of potassium chloride, 0-0-60, or potassium sulfate, 0-0-43, per 100 square feet of strawberry growing soil. Potassium sulfate is acceptable for organic gardeners. Mixing 14 cups of greensand to each 100 square feet is also acceptable for organic potassium. Greensand, mined from mineral deposits originally on the ocean floor, contains 3 percent potassium along with iron, magnesium, silica and other trace minerals.
If your soil lacks phosphorus, combine 2 1/2 cups of superphosphate, 0-20-0, or 1 cup of triple superphosphate, 0-46-0 to 100 square feet of soil. For organic phosphorus add 6 cups of bonemeal, 1-11-0, to 100 square feet.
Strawberries commonly suffer from a lack of boron in the soil. If no boron was added in the previous three to four years, mix 3/4 ounce of borax into a gallon of water and shake thoroughly. Spread this over 100 square feet of strawberry planting area, taking care not to apply too much. If you regularly amend your soil with compost, it should contain sufficient organic boron.
Growing Season Fertilizer
Two weeks before you plant strawberries, mix 2 pounds of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
Add fertilizer to newly planted strawberries in 6-inch bands on both sides of the rows. Use water-soluble, granular fertilizer and water well after application.
Six to eight weeks after planting, apply 1 pound of water-soluble, granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil. If granules land on the strawberry leaves, knock them off with your hand or wash them off.
Adding nitrogen fertilizer in the spring before harvest may increase plant and berry diseases and cause excessive growth of stems and leaves. But if your plants are growing slowly and the leaves are light green, add 1/2 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet of soil.
After harvesting June-bearing strawberries, remove weeds, cut back leaves and thin plants. Then add 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil in 6-inch bands beside the plants. Give the plants at least 1 inch of water per week to avoid salt injury from the fertilizer and to give the strawberries strong, new growth. One inch of water is roughly 6 gallons per square yard.
If your strawberries are growing in soil that has not been allowed to dry out, fertilize them again in late august with 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of soil.
Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to 100 square feet of everbearing and day neutral strawberries in the middle of June and July and at the end of August.
Organic Fertilizers
Organic nutrients for strawberries are best added before they are planted, rather than later.
If you have time, plant oats in the area where you then plow them under a few weeks before you plant strawberries. The decaying oats will add nutrients to the soil.
Early spring is also when you should add 35 pounds of rabbit or poultry manure or 65 pounds of cow manure into the top 6 to 8 inches of 100 square feet of soil.
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成长记
astronbot
2017年11月02日
I got perlite at home depot and repotted this lil guy!! (ive just been using regular cactus soil and it doesn't drain well) I'm watering him from the bottom this time, I heard it encourages deep root growth?
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astronbot：@meriunkat thank you!!! he's one of my faves
meriunkat：So cute!
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Tomatoes are 95 percent water, with most varieties soaking up summer rains to become pump and juicy on the vine. Water – along with sunshine and nutrient-rich soil – is needed at every stage of the growing process. Otherwise, tomatoes won't grow, blossom and produce fruit. The manner in which water is delivered, either via rain or via a controlled system, can affect tomatoes in a positive way, or can also have devastating results.
Cracking and Splitting
A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain.
Blossom End Rot
A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth.
Insects
A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects.
Fungal Blight
Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.
Cracking and Splitting
A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain.
Blossom End Rot
A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth.
Insects
A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects.
Fungal Blight
Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Muscadine grapes have shallow roots that feed upon nutrients within the top 12 inches of the soil. Correct application of nutrients is important. The type and schedule of fertilization depends largely upon the existing conditions of the soil and age of the muscadine grape. Before planting vegetation, perform a soil test, which will inform you of the soil pH and the nutrient status of your site.
First Year Fertilization
Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications.
Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond
Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place.
Magnesium
Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July.
Boron
Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.
First Year Fertilization
Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications.
Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond
Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place.
Magnesium
Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July.
Boron
Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Although tomatoes need moist, rich soil to produce healthy fruit, too much water is just as bad as too little. Signs of over watering may mimic disease or other environmental problems, but if several symptoms are present, too much water is the likely cause. Fortunately, tomato plants usually recover within a few weeks from over watering.
Excess Foliage
Over watering, as well as over fertilizing, causes tomato plants to produce lots of lush, leafy growth, but few tomatoes. Cold weather and drought conditions may also cause blossoms to drop, but won't produce an excess of foliage. If your plant seems to have an overabundance of leaves, but no fruit, suspect too much water or nitrogen.
Fruit Symptoms
As a tomato begins to ripen from green to red, the fruit develops a thin, papery shell. If the plant is watered excessively during this time, the shell cracks. Blossom-end rot is a brown or black spot that develops on the bottom of the fruit and spreads, eventually causing the entire fruit to decay. Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but is exacerbated by inconsistent watering practices.
Leaf Symptoms
Too much water and too little water often produce similar results. The leaves may wilt, turn yellow and drop, or the tips may become burnt. Too much fertilizer also causes leaf tip burn. Brown spots on the leaves, cankers or holes are usually caused by disease or insect infestation rather than environmental conditions.
Considerations
Amend heavy clay soils or sandy soils with compost and manure before planting tomatoes. These amendments improve drainage for both types of soil, reducing the risk of over watering. Water tomatoes when the soil feels dry 1/2 inch under the surface. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels dry at the first joint, it's time to water. Water for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the moisture to soak thoroughly into the soil. Check the soil frequently to keep it consistently moist -- neither dry nor soggy.
Excess Foliage
Over watering, as well as over fertilizing, causes tomato plants to produce lots of lush, leafy growth, but few tomatoes. Cold weather and drought conditions may also cause blossoms to drop, but won't produce an excess of foliage. If your plant seems to have an overabundance of leaves, but no fruit, suspect too much water or nitrogen.
Fruit Symptoms
As a tomato begins to ripen from green to red, the fruit develops a thin, papery shell. If the plant is watered excessively during this time, the shell cracks. Blossom-end rot is a brown or black spot that develops on the bottom of the fruit and spreads, eventually causing the entire fruit to decay. Blossom-end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but is exacerbated by inconsistent watering practices.
Leaf Symptoms
Too much water and too little water often produce similar results. The leaves may wilt, turn yellow and drop, or the tips may become burnt. Too much fertilizer also causes leaf tip burn. Brown spots on the leaves, cankers or holes are usually caused by disease or insect infestation rather than environmental conditions.
Considerations
Amend heavy clay soils or sandy soils with compost and manure before planting tomatoes. These amendments improve drainage for both types of soil, reducing the risk of over watering. Water tomatoes when the soil feels dry 1/2 inch under the surface. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels dry at the first joint, it's time to water. Water for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the moisture to soak thoroughly into the soil. Check the soil frequently to keep it consistently moist -- neither dry nor soggy.
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